In 1976 I rde my brand new Clyde Beatty rocketfish for the first time there...a nice West wrapped around the corner there at Heaven's and delivered some 4 to 6 foot faces right at the rock...nobody out..overcast, glassy and perfect...kids were little..built a fire under the lifeguard shack for them and paddled out..I had been riding a 7'6" Rick single fin and now was on a 6'4" fish....first take off I slid out at the bottom turn..next wave long drawn out bottom turn then up the face...so fast and quick I remember the excitement of that speedy little board...my friend was doing a movie and he was there with boards in his van...she got to talking with him and she mentioned me to him..he opened the van and told her take one...I rode that board for years and hot glassed it once..
My wife Cathy, gone for a decade now, learned to surf at Leo..Buzzy trent taught her..she was a kid..14ish..he was a local there according to her and her friends..
In 1976 I rde my brand new Clyde Beatty rocketfish for the first time there...a nice West wrapped around the corner there at Heaven's and delivered some 4 to 6 foot faces right at the rock...nobody out..overcast, glassy and perfect...kids were little..built a fire under the lifeguard shack for them and paddled out..I had been riding a 7'6" Rick single fin and now was on a 6'4" fish....first take off I slid out at the bottom turn..next wave long drawn out bottom turn then up the face...so fast and quick I remember the excitement of that speedy little board...my friend was doing a movie and he was there with boards in his van...she got to talking with him and she mentioned me to him..he opened the van and told her take one...I rode that board for years and hot glassed it once..
woooow. life can be like a dream sometimes eh.
Where "Gidget" was filmed in the 1950-s
a great spot
Back in the really ol' days it was a summer spot...in winter when a big west wrapped in there hardly anybody surfed it..sooooo darn cold.
My wife Cathy, gone for a decade now, learned to surf at Leo..Buzzy trent taught her..she was a kid..14ish..he was a local there according to her and her friends..
Amazing story. I remember watching Buzzy Trent in all the old Bud Browne films, seemed like a classic guy!