To me. This is pretty much will fix the drift for sure. Thank you for brining the joy in people's life! Having drift problem in the controller can ruined people's day.
This video will show you how to rebuild the transducer. To perform this procedure, you'll need to disassemble your controller down to the circuit board. You'll need this video to show you how to get there. 🪛🪛🪛 ua-cam.com/video/aZ57n6iam6Q/v-deo.html 🪛🪛🪛 If this is your first attempt in dealing with Quest 2 Controller drift, you can try any of these other solutions first. None of them require a complete disassembly of the controller to implement. (Cleaning with contact cleaner is usually the one that helps folks the most.) Controller Unpair & Pair- ua-cam.com/users/shorts5ZwZUPIDsH4?feature=share Software calibration- ua-cam.com/video/wM-ijm64WnI/v-deo.html 💖💖💖Cleaning Procedure- ua-cam.com/video/iitoevOXrf8/v-deo.html 💖💖💖 If none of these are helping correct your controller drifting issues, then it's probably time to try the Transducer Rebuild. 💲💲You can also buy a New Transducer on Amazon. amzn.to/3o1dJbv 💲💲💲 I've gotten this one and it works. (This is an Amazon associate link, if you buy one, I get a shiny nickel or two, but you don't pay any more. 😁)
Always happy to hear when I've helped someone out. I'd be very interested to hear when/if you have to rebuild it again in the future. So far, the one's that I've done are well past the month point, but I think it has more to do with how often you click the thumbstick, rather than moving in X/Y. Take care and Happy Gaming!
Really great tutorial. I’ve never taken any electronics apart but with this video I felt very confident in doing so. Was able to replace my sons joystick. Thank you so much!
Thank you so much! Drift has been a huge issue and no fix seemed to work for me. I tried this as a last resort and it worked perfectly. And your video about the controller disassemble made the prosses a breeze. Again thank you so much for this extremely helpful video.
Thanks so much! Your step by step instructions are excellent and my annoying drift is gone. To those watching you will need a quality Torx T4 and T5-- had to go out and get a quality precision kit from Home Depot-- there are lots of screws and a few are angled. Thanks again!
Even with new thumbsticks on the way, I managed the repair the originals although they were a bit different than the ones in your vid. Great tutorial, will see how long this will last, but having new ones as backup there’s no worry. Thank you from Argentina, people like you should win a Nobel Prize.
TYSM I was really worried I'd have to buy a new controller or new transducers but thanks to this video I only spent 2 dollars in total (On tweezers) You've earned a sub!
I just did this! Thank you so much for the videos! I had a 90% drift to the right (flickering rapidly between center and 90% right). Now I only have about 5% top-left, which is much better and I think it's manageable with setting the deadzone to the minimum. If someone is planning on doing this, let me just tell you though, it's much harder than it looks and so not repair-friendly! Those screws next to the trigger on the main board are freakishly hard to screw and unscrew. They got stripped a bit and the screwdriver slipped and hit the board hard. I was pleasantly surprised no soldered component got knocked off. I know I probably can fix the remaining 5% drift if I repeat the whole thing, but I'm almost sure I'll end up ruining the controller by the second or third attempt, so I'll just keep it like this for now. I have a tip though, make sure the metal housing of the thumbstick module is very straight (the 4 L shaped clips you bend out of the way to open it) but also slightly still bent inward a bit, especially the side pieces (the 2 window shaped pieces that fit on white protrusions), then you just push it straight down on the spring and the "windows" catch the plastic nicely clicking in place, you don't even have to hold it, then just bend back the 4 L clips withouth hassle.
@@ImaRainbow umm, so I've opened it a second time because the capacitive touch of the thumbstick is stuck in the "touched" state. The contact of the spring was in the correct orientation but the screw wasn't pressing against it enough (I would've thought it would be stuck in the "not-touched" state). But, even after making sure there is contact (there is no visible gap from the side), it still shows the thumb stuck in the "touched" state all the time. Any idea on what might be causing it? I checked for continuity with the case of the transducer (and all the visible debug "pads" I could find) and there is no continuity anywhere. I can't check directly if the spring has continuity to the metal pad it's supposed to touch because it's inaccessible when screwed in, and I couldn't find any other place on the board connected to it. Thank you in advance.
@@lake5044 The metal clip that covers the transducer has to be oriented in the correct position. There's a clip on it that should be opposite the side of the ribbon cable. If that's not oriented properly, the spring won't read properly. This is the only think that comes to mind, base on your description.
@@ImaRainbow I'm certain the orientation is correct (the flat side is to the outside, and the metal flap that is supposed to touch the metal pad on the board is in the correct spot). My only guess was that the screws were not tight enough. I tried bending the metal flap a bit so that it sticks out more and tightened the screws fairly well so that it is surely touching. And yet it's stuck in the "touched" state. (Can you confirm that if it's not touching it will be stuck in "touched" instead of "not-touched"? Because maybe instead it's touching some other thing it's not supposed to touch? I doubt it but who knows.) I also tried repairing the controller and it didn't work. And I couldn't follow the trace to where that pad is connected to (or it's connected on the same side) which is impossible to prob when the board is screwed. Well, thank you so much anyway. Maybe you or someone else later might read my comment and have some new idea.
I managed to solve this mystery a while back and forgot to update my comment: the issue was that the animation of resting the thumb on the thumbstick and very slightly moving the thumbstick are the same... So I didn't have any issue with the detection of resting the thumb, it's just that I had a tiny (5% or so) drift after the fix, and after adjusting the deadzone in the settings, the detection of resting the thumb works fine. Hope this helps anyone doing this.
I appreciate you for doing this. It pisses me off that they make it so hard to fix these things. They want you to buy another $100 controller knowing those sticks are going to fail. I have an n64 controller that is damn near 30 years old and the stick works perfect.
You're very welcome. Glad that I could help out. If the joystick eventually wears out, you can replace with joystick with some off Amazon. You obviously know how to take it apart now. ua-cam.com/video/kQ2-XYEbOKY/v-deo.html Happy gaming!
I'm right in the middle of doing this; great video I hope it works! Note: You took a part a left controller transducer but after the rebuild you attached it to a right controller circuit board 10:01 Edit: Got it all together and stopped my stick drift? Great video! Can you do a video on the x/y buttons? My buttons are not working now :(
Pop the black cover off. See if they're working without it. There's a little wiggle room when you put it on and it can impede the buttons from moving properly. Usually, just need to reseat the cover.
m glad that worked for you. Did you have any trouble? Were the instructions clear? Just looking for feedback, if you have any, good or bad. Thanks for watching.
This fix absolutely works. If simple air dusting didn’t help, try this approach. Guaranteed to work. You don’t have to buy a new transducer. The transducer is simple as long as you don’t have broken components. Also, very important to remember to connect the transducer cable. If you forget (like I did the first time) you’d think the fix doesn’t work. I am now back to a 100% working controller without that annoying drift.
@@ImaRainbow absolutely! Thanks for creating these kind of videos. Helps a lot of people which could simply fix rather than buy new controllers. I am a “fix it rather than buy” kind of person myself, but I don’t do these videos. You are doing public service. Keep the good work going! 👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼🙌🏼🙌🏼
I just opted for the $18 kit from Amazon. Comes with two new joysticks and all the tools you’ll need. But if you really like tinkering, this is the way to go. Question is, are the Quest 3 controllers harder or easier to work on?
The "spring" is actually for the capacitive sensor for you thumb. If its been stretched out, you should be able to use some needle nose pliers to compress it back into shape so it'll fit under the thumbstick cap.
Very thanks bro. I'm from brasil and e got one quest 2 recently. But a brother's wife went down the joystick on the floor and the analog started pushed it to back
Thank you for the clear video 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻. Is there any way to separate the hin layer of the pcb joystick inside? I've bend the contact part up, rebuild it. But I still have problem to press upward I can't run in the game, just a slow walking forward, and it still drift to downward 😓
I haven't tried doing anything with the pcb. It's possible that it's simply worn out. You might want to consider replacing the thumbstick. It's only 10-15 dollars on Amazon. ua-cam.com/video/kQ2-XYEbOKY/v-deo.html
I appreciate all the info you give in all the videos, this helped me repair my little brother's controllers and saved my parents from dropping 140 on a set of new controllers
Is this the same for an Quest 1 controller? Great video by the way. I have fixed a lot of old switches like this... boy they are getting smaller though.
Hey, here my problem. My left controller joystick don't work at all, when I go in oculus calibration it's not moving at all so I can't even mark dead space. All the spaces are dead lol, will this work or might work for me in this case. So no drift, just a none working joystick.
Yes, it might work. If your joystick's not working, this is worth a try. Just make sure you're working someplace where you can keep track of all the pieces, some of them are tiny. If this doesn't work for you in the end, you can replace the transducer ua-cam.com/video/kQ2-XYEbOKY/v-deo.html. Hope this helps.
Thank you for your detailed video tutorial. I followed your process step by step, even though I have no experience, and I took apart and rebuilt my right controller joystick. Everything looked fine, but when I tested my controller with the headset, the joystick always pointed forward without any input, making my controller useless. What did I do wrong?
No way to know without me looking at it myself, but I've got some suggestions. Check to make the ribbon cables are properly connected and the latch is down. When you reassembled the transducer, did you check to make sure that it felt like it was moving properly? The parts are tiny, so it's easy to get them misaligned.
@@ImaRainbow You were right. Within the joystick module, one of the wires from the two contact pairs was twisted in the opposite direction..I took it appart again and fixed it, working perfectly now. Thanks a bunch. I’m grateful
i dropped my controller once and now the stick keeps going fully left at random intervals, even if i was to push my stick fully up or down it would still go fully left rapidly and spontaniously rather than a constant small drift. do you think that issue would be fixed by this? or maybe its a different issue
Can't say for sure until you disassemble it. Just remember, it's broke now, doesn't sound like you've got much choice unless you're getting new controllers. You can buy new transducers, rather than trying to rebuild. They're $15-20 on amazon. Good luck.
@ImaRainbow ye, the videos you made have me confident in the repair anyway so thankyou :) I legit only had the controllers a day so will hold off on doing anything about it for a while xD
I've done this, tried contact cleaner spray/compressed air, bought two new transducers, and still have drift. Do you have any idea what else could be causing it?
Dang i should watched this yesterday i actually took it apart and should of pushed up on the tabs to fix it now i have to take apart so many screws just the thought of it makes me have a mental breakdown SO MANY SCREWS 😭💀💀
@@ImaRainbow guess I'm gonna have to buy another those switches because it still has no function up or down just side to side and click down. It worked fine before i tried cleaning it with alcohol but I guess that didn't work either
I didn't read far down enough in the comments, but I'm having an issue with the touch on my thumb sticks after I reassemble my controller. It either works or it doesn't and its completely random. Is there something I can do to fix this? It works about 25% of the time
I need to make another troubleshooting video, this is probably the most common question that comes up. The "spring" under the thumbstick cap is actually the capacitive sensor. Changes are that it is not properly seated or not making good contact with the metal case of the transducer. Pop the thumbstick cap off. Check to see that the spring is held by 4 tiny hooks. If not, thread them back on using some fine tip tweezers. When you put the thumbstick cap on, you'll have to try and make sure that it goes on so the "spring" fits all the way up under the top of the cap. It's impossible to see, so the only way you'll know, is if the sensor is working. Try replacing it straight down, without tilting the transducer stick at all that seems to help. You can also try lubricating the upper part of the spring the round round bit of the thumbstick cap with a little isopropyl alcohol. It'll help them slide together. (I wouldn't use any actual grease since it has a tendency to migrate when it gets warm. The ipa will flash off as it dries.) Hope this helps.
for some reason i think i did something wrong everything works but when i have my thumb on it it doesnt detect it only when i press or move the joystick
The "spring" is probably detached from the metal on the transducer. (It actually a capacitive sensor.) There's 4 tiny clips that the spring goes through. Sometimes these will become detached. Use a pair or tweezers to thread the spring back through the clips. Hope this helps.
Did you try and rebuild them? If so, it sounds like a couple of the contacts are not making proper contact. You can try again or buy new ones off amazon.
You are the "rainbow"! I was gonna say the man but I didn't wanna mis-gender you :D :D :D Anyway I just left the Meta community forum and pointed a Quest 2 user to your videos because if you can teach an old dog like me how to replace a joystick...you can teach anyone. Said it before...finding your page made my day.
You might be able to reseat the cap and make sure that the round part of the spring has slipped completely over the the round bit under the cap. It's impossible to see, so you have to just work it up as best you can.
@@ImaRainbow same i get a clicking noise when i move the analog sticks now, cant get the spring to sir over the plastic under the analog stick.. can i widen the spring?
@@ImaRainbow It is the one that came with the Oculus Quest 2 package. I bought it new 1 month back . But it looks like it was manufactured a while back , since the box and logo says Oculus Quest 2 instead of Meta Quest 2 . And the transducer looks exactly like the black ones that you can buy from amazon or aliexpress. My warranty started the day I bought it , I checked meta's website and after disassembling the controller it does not look like it was opened before. My controller's model is LX39EM
Hello, I have a problem, I have stick drift on the left controller, I think it come from the spring of the stick, its à little folded, do you know what can I do when the spring is the problem ?
The spring is actually part of the capacitive sensor. I'd find it unlikely that it's actually causing your drift. However, if you do want try to straighten it, I'd suggest detaching it from the body of the transducer first. Its made of spring steel, so you'd need to use two fine tipped needle nose pliers to control any bending you try.
Great video. Unfortunately it didn’t fix my problem. The right controller spins round in a circle and shoots off of the screen. I’ve already had a replacement from oculus ☹️
Explaining a transducer? Probably. Explaining the controller, none that I know of besides mine, but I haven't looked around for awhile either. It's fairly simple though. While it feels like you're moving the thumbstick in a circle, you're only actually moving it (right-left) X and (up-down) Y. Metal contacts that move in X and Y, create variable resistance, that's passed to the headset. The headset converts the X/Y resistance into coordinates, these get translated into movement. Drift starts happening when the transducers produce inconsistent values, that the headset doesn't know how to translate properly. These can be caused by bent contacts, dirt, sweat, hair or anything else making contact within the transducer itself.
@@ImaRainbow Now that the quest 2 has been out for a while, it seems there are many third party suppliers making their own compatible replacement parts. I've found many items, including the circuit boards for the controllers. Aliexpress has many parts.... You know the Chinese companies love to copy and make other companies' parts... they are infamous for that. I'm willing to bet the parts on Amazon are coming from those same sellers on Aliexpress.
I'm sure that they are. I just know that getting a refund from Ali is painful. Getting one from Amazon is not. Mostly come down to how much risk you're willing to accept. Appreciate the input, Have a great day!
I wouldn't go that far, but they probably should've used a a hall effect sensor instead of the mechanical contacts. Constantly clicking them down and moving them around they're guaranteed to deform and start causing trouble.
I agree that this is pretty bad design, but I'd say the N64's analog stick is worse. This analog stick can be fixed by just re-bending some contacts, whereas the N64 analog stick gets all loose from cannibalizing itself from constant plastic-on-plastic contact and wearing.
Fear doesn't need to factor into your decision making. If/when you're not able to clean your controller effectively any more (See this video- ua-cam.com/video/iitoevOXrf8/v-deo.html ) Rebuilding the transducer is an alternative to buying a new controller. I'm pretty sure I covered all of this.
That's a valid solution, for sure. I was doing it about one per month for a year (a lot of Pop One will stress that left stick! lol) and got tired of it. I bought new replacement analog stick modules (about $15 for a set of two) then used Ima_Rainbow's guide (along with one on iFixit) to replace it. It's like a brand new controller again; in fact, the new analog stick feels a bit "heavier duty" than the OEM stick-- there's just a little bit more tension which actually makes movement a bit more precise. Thanks again for the excellent videos and instruction Ima_Rainbow!
To me. This is pretty much will fix the drift for sure. Thank you for brining the joy in people's life! Having drift problem in the controller can ruined people's day.
Drift definitely sucks.
Does this fix still holds ?
This video will show you how to rebuild the transducer.
To perform this procedure, you'll need to disassemble your controller down to the circuit board. You'll need this video to show you how to get there.
🪛🪛🪛 ua-cam.com/video/aZ57n6iam6Q/v-deo.html 🪛🪛🪛
If this is your first attempt in dealing with Quest 2 Controller drift, you can try any of these other solutions first. None of them require a complete disassembly of the controller to implement.
(Cleaning with contact cleaner is usually the one that helps folks the most.)
Controller Unpair & Pair- ua-cam.com/users/shorts5ZwZUPIDsH4?feature=share
Software calibration- ua-cam.com/video/wM-ijm64WnI/v-deo.html
💖💖💖Cleaning Procedure- ua-cam.com/video/iitoevOXrf8/v-deo.html 💖💖💖
If none of these are helping correct your controller drifting issues, then it's probably time to try the Transducer Rebuild.
💲💲You can also buy a New Transducer on Amazon. amzn.to/3o1dJbv 💲💲💲
I've gotten this one and it works.
(This is an Amazon associate link, if you buy one, I get a shiny nickel or two, but you don't pay any more. 😁)
I think you forgot to pin this comment
I'm very grateful for your content! I was able rebuild the joystick and playing on the quest is fun again! You da man Mr. Rainbow 🌈
Always happy to hear when I've helped someone out. I'd be very interested to hear when/if you have to rebuild it again in the future.
So far, the one's that I've done are well past the month point, but I think it has more to do with how often you click the thumbstick, rather than moving in X/Y.
Take care and Happy Gaming!
did it last long? I heard those replacements get drift insanely quickly
Thanks man! You're the best! Your very clear and thorough video just saved me quite a lot of money on a new controller. Thank you!
Glad I could help.
1 h 30 min each controller, but it absolutely works. both like new. Thank you!
Glad I could show you the way. Great job on the repairs!
Really great tutorial. I’ve never taken any electronics apart but with this video I felt very confident in doing so. Was able to replace my sons joystick. Thank you so much!
Glad I could show you the way. Great job on fixing the transducer! Thanks for watching.
Does this replacement work well so far?
Thank you so much! Drift has been a huge issue and no fix seemed to work for me. I tried this as a last resort and it worked perfectly. And your video about the controller disassemble made the prosses a breeze. Again thank you so much for this extremely helpful video.
Glad it helped
Thank you! Me and my son are back up and running. You did an excellent job on both of these videos.
Glad I could help.
Done and Done! Couldn't have done it without your amazing content.
Thanks! Glad I was able to help you, help yourself.
Took me around 10 hours + a quick trip to the store, but I managed to do it. Works great as of now!
Terrific. Glad you got it working!
how is the replacement doing so far? I heard they break very quickly
@@fazemoti2755 the one I fixed still works perfectly fine.
Thank God for you, You saved my Christmas many thanks for the guide!
You're welcome! I love being an honorary Santa's helper.
Thanks so much! Your step by step instructions are excellent and my annoying drift is gone. To those watching you will need a quality Torx T4 and T5-- had to go out and get a quality precision kit from Home Depot-- there are lots of screws and a few are angled. Thanks again!
Glad I could help.
Even with new thumbsticks on the way, I managed the repair the originals although they were a bit different than the ones in your vid. Great tutorial, will see how long this will last, but having new ones as backup there’s no worry. Thank you from Argentina, people like you should win a Nobel Prize.
Glad I could help. Great job getting them up and running again.
does it still work well? I heard those replacements get drift quickly
@@fazemoti2755 did not use the replacements yet, I followed this tuto for repairing the originals and still works fine, no drift at all.
TYSM I was really worried I'd have to buy a new controller or new transducers but thanks to this video I only spent 2 dollars in total (On tweezers) You've earned a sub!
Glad I could help.
I just did this! Thank you so much for the videos!
I had a 90% drift to the right (flickering rapidly between center and 90% right). Now I only have about 5% top-left, which is much better and I think it's manageable with setting the deadzone to the minimum.
If someone is planning on doing this, let me just tell you though, it's much harder than it looks and so not repair-friendly! Those screws next to the trigger on the main board are freakishly hard to screw and unscrew. They got stripped a bit and the screwdriver slipped and hit the board hard. I was pleasantly surprised no soldered component got knocked off. I know I probably can fix the remaining 5% drift if I repeat the whole thing, but I'm almost sure I'll end up ruining the controller by the second or third attempt, so I'll just keep it like this for now.
I have a tip though, make sure the metal housing of the thumbstick module is very straight (the 4 L shaped clips you bend out of the way to open it) but also slightly still bent inward a bit, especially the side pieces (the 2 window shaped pieces that fit on white protrusions), then you just push it straight down on the spring and the "windows" catch the plastic nicely clicking in place, you don't even have to hold it, then just bend back the 4 L clips withouth hassle.
Glad that worked out for you. Thank you for passing along your experience and the tip.
@@ImaRainbow umm, so I've opened it a second time because the capacitive touch of the thumbstick is stuck in the "touched" state. The contact of the spring was in the correct orientation but the screw wasn't pressing against it enough (I would've thought it would be stuck in the "not-touched" state).
But, even after making sure there is contact (there is no visible gap from the side), it still shows the thumb stuck in the "touched" state all the time. Any idea on what might be causing it?
I checked for continuity with the case of the transducer (and all the visible debug "pads" I could find) and there is no continuity anywhere. I can't check directly if the spring has continuity to the metal pad it's supposed to touch because it's inaccessible when screwed in, and I couldn't find any other place on the board connected to it.
Thank you in advance.
@@lake5044 The metal clip that covers the transducer has to be oriented in the correct position. There's a clip on it that should be opposite the side of the ribbon cable. If that's not oriented properly, the spring won't read properly. This is the only think that comes to mind, base on your description.
@@ImaRainbow I'm certain the orientation is correct (the flat side is to the outside, and the metal flap that is supposed to touch the metal pad on the board is in the correct spot).
My only guess was that the screws were not tight enough. I tried bending the metal flap a bit so that it sticks out more and tightened the screws fairly well so that it is surely touching. And yet it's stuck in the "touched" state. (Can you confirm that if it's not touching it will be stuck in "touched" instead of "not-touched"? Because maybe instead it's touching some other thing it's not supposed to touch? I doubt it but who knows.)
I also tried repairing the controller and it didn't work. And I couldn't follow the trace to where that pad is connected to (or it's connected on the same side) which is impossible to prob when the board is screwed.
Well, thank you so much anyway. Maybe you or someone else later might read my comment and have some new idea.
I managed to solve this mystery a while back and forgot to update my comment: the issue was that the animation of resting the thumb on the thumbstick and very slightly moving the thumbstick are the same... So I didn't have any issue with the detection of resting the thumb, it's just that I had a tiny (5% or so) drift after the fix, and after adjusting the deadzone in the settings, the detection of resting the thumb works fine. Hope this helps anyone doing this.
Thank you so much!
You're welcome!
I appreciate you for doing this. It pisses me off that they make it so hard to fix these things. They want you to buy another $100 controller knowing those sticks are going to fail. I have an n64 controller that is damn near 30 years old and the stick works perfect.
Yep, they could've gotten a more robust transducer that's for sure.
Mannnn Thankyou im from brasil and fixed my joy with this vídeo... 100% perfect now.. thankyou... you are the man
Glad that I could show you the way. Great job on fixing your controller! Happy gaming!
Does this fix still holds to this day? I heard they break quickly
😁Perfect video, I fixed my boys controller thanks to you. Spot on. Thanks
Glad I could help. If the rebuild every quits working, the transducers on amazon seem to be working fine so far as replacements.
Excellent video
Thanks, glad I was able to help you out.
This video would've been nice to watch before attempting this myself and turning the joystick into a small slingshot 😅
You can do it!
this is interesting. You think there's a way to replace those with a hall effect sensor?
No idea.
Thanks! Worked for me.👍👍🙏
You're very welcome. Glad that I could help out. If the joystick eventually wears out, you can replace with joystick with some off Amazon. You obviously know how to take it apart now. ua-cam.com/video/kQ2-XYEbOKY/v-deo.html
Happy gaming!
I'm right in the middle of doing this; great video I hope it works! Note: You took a part a left controller transducer but after the rebuild you attached it to a right controller circuit board 10:01
Edit: Got it all together and stopped my stick drift? Great video!
Can you do a video on the x/y buttons? My buttons are not working now :(
Pop the black cover off. See if they're working without it. There's a little wiggle room when you put it on and it can impede the buttons from moving properly. Usually, just need to reseat the cover.
Did you get it working?
Amazing 👏
Glad it helped.
Thank u so much I can finally play pavlov again
m glad that worked for you. Did you have any trouble? Were the instructions clear? Just looking for feedback, if you have any, good or bad. Thanks for watching.
This fix absolutely works. If simple air dusting didn’t help, try this approach. Guaranteed to work. You don’t have to buy a new transducer. The transducer is simple as long as you don’t have broken components. Also, very important to remember to connect the transducer cable. If you forget (like I did the first time) you’d think the fix doesn’t work. I am now back to a 100% working controller without that annoying drift.
Thanks for watching and I'm glad you were able to get your controller back up and running.
@@ImaRainbow absolutely! Thanks for creating these kind of videos. Helps a lot of people which could simply fix rather than buy new controllers. I am a “fix it rather than buy” kind of person myself, but I don’t do these videos. You are doing public service. Keep the good work going! 👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼🙌🏼🙌🏼
I'll try. Happy gaming.
Does this replacement work well so far? No drifts/breaks
I just opted for the $18 kit from Amazon. Comes with two new joysticks and all the tools you’ll need. But if you really like tinkering, this is the way to go. Question is, are the Quest 3 controllers harder or easier to work on?
From my perspective, they're easier to disassemble because they don't have the ring. Makes it easier.
Thanks!
You're welcome. Hope it helps.
Hey I know I’m a little late, but what do I do if my spring on the joystick is stretched? I really need help
The "spring" is actually for the capacitive sensor for you thumb. If its been stretched out, you should be able to use some needle nose pliers to compress it back into shape so it'll fit under the thumbstick cap.
@@ImaRainbow it simply keeps coming back up. Do you know any videos about how to compress the spring?
Very thanks bro. I'm from brasil and e got one quest 2 recently. But a brother's wife went down the joystick on the floor and the analog started pushed it to back
Glad I could help. Happy gaming!
does this fix still work to this day? I heard they break quickly
@@fazemoti2755 perfectly my man. I just recommend buy a bunch to prevent future
What sprays do you use when cleaning the controller please
⚛️⚛️WD-40 Specialist Electrical Contact Cleaner Spray amzn.to/3beEoi2
⚡⚡CRC 02130 QD Contact Cleaner amzn.to/3cORvXF
🔌🔌CRC 05103 QD Electronic Cleaner amzn.to/3QafnU9
💡💡BW-100 Non-Flammable Electronic Contact Cleaner amzn.to/3vqcVRA
Complete Controller Teardown and Reassembly Video ua-cam.com/video/aZ57n6iam6Q/v-deo.html
Thank you for the clear video 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻. Is there any way to separate the hin layer of the pcb joystick inside? I've bend the contact part up, rebuild it. But I still have problem to press upward I can't run in the game, just a slow walking forward, and it still drift to downward 😓
I haven't tried doing anything with the pcb. It's possible that it's simply worn out. You might want to consider replacing the thumbstick. It's only 10-15 dollars on Amazon. ua-cam.com/video/kQ2-XYEbOKY/v-deo.html
@@ImaRainbow thanks m8. I've considered to replace it before open the transducer up 🤭
I appreciate all the info you give in all the videos, this helped me repair my little brother's controllers and saved my parents from dropping 140 on a set of new controllers
Glad I could help. Maybe they'll give a commission on the money you saved?
@@ImaRainbow they'll pay me with a big Ole dish of food and thats good enough for me 👌🏼
does this replacement still holds after 9 months? i heard they break/drift quick
Is this the same for an Quest 1 controller? Great video by the way. I have fixed a lot of old switches like this... boy they are getting smaller though.
The controller's aren't built quite the same, so I can't answer that. Never taken a Quest 1 controller apart.
Hey, here my problem. My left controller joystick don't work at all, when I go in oculus calibration it's not moving at all so I can't even mark dead space. All the spaces are dead lol, will this work or might work for me in this case. So no drift, just a none working joystick.
Yes, it might work. If your joystick's not working, this is worth a try. Just make sure you're working someplace where you can keep track of all the pieces, some of them are tiny. If this doesn't work for you in the end, you can replace the transducer ua-cam.com/video/kQ2-XYEbOKY/v-deo.html.
Hope this helps.
Thank you for your detailed video tutorial. I followed your process step by step, even though I have no experience, and I took apart and rebuilt my right controller joystick. Everything looked fine, but when I tested my controller with the headset, the joystick always pointed forward without any input, making my controller useless. What did I do wrong?
No way to know without me looking at it myself, but I've got some suggestions. Check to make the ribbon cables are properly connected and the latch is down.
When you reassembled the transducer, did you check to make sure that it felt like it was moving properly? The parts are tiny, so it's easy to get them misaligned.
@@ImaRainbow yes it moves as it should. Are the joysticks of the right and left controllers identical in their components and positions?
@@nayanmisra8447 Yep, same transducer in both. The can be swapped.
@@ImaRainbow You were right. Within the joystick module, one of the wires from the two contact pairs was twisted in the opposite direction..I took it appart again and fixed it, working perfectly now. Thanks a bunch. I’m grateful
@@nayanmisra8447 That's terrific! Great job on fixing it yourself!
Aouche, it's very tiny parts 😮
Nice video, except... the music 😅😂
Yep, they're tiny, but rebuild is definitely possible.
i dropped my controller once and now the stick keeps going fully left at random intervals, even if i was to push my stick fully up or down it would still go fully left rapidly and spontaniously rather than a constant small drift. do you think that issue would be fixed by this? or maybe its a different issue
Can't say for sure until you disassemble it. Just remember, it's broke now, doesn't sound like you've got much choice unless you're getting new controllers. You can buy new transducers, rather than trying to rebuild. They're $15-20 on amazon. Good luck.
@ImaRainbow ye, the videos you made have me confident in the repair anyway so thankyou :) I legit only had the controllers a day so will hold off on doing anything about it for a while xD
I've done this, tried contact cleaner spray/compressed air, bought two new transducers, and still have drift. Do you have any idea what else could be causing it?
If you replaced the transducers and you've still got drift, it doesn't sound like the controllers. Maybe factory reset the headset. See if that helps.
спасибо
Пожалуйста
this worked but right when i was done my controller keeps rapidly flashing and wont connect
Make sure all the ribbon cables are seated properly and the locking tabs are down.
This should work on switch too. They both use nearly same joystick design.
Interesting. Maybe I need to find a switch and tear it apart.
whats the name of that thing you use to pick parts of controller?
Tweezers
Dang i should watched this yesterday i actually took it apart and should of pushed up on the tabs to fix it now i have to take apart so many screws just the thought of it makes me have a mental breakdown SO MANY SCREWS 😭💀💀
Well, so many is actually not that many. Of coarse, I built up electronics for a living, so many is a Lot more. Good luck with the repair.
@@ImaRainbow guess I'm gonna have to buy another those switches because it still has no function up or down just side to side and click down. It worked fine before i tried cleaning it with alcohol but I guess that didn't work either
I didn't read far down enough in the comments, but I'm having an issue with the touch on my thumb sticks after I reassemble my controller. It either works or it doesn't and its completely random. Is there something I can do to fix this? It works about 25% of the time
I need to make another troubleshooting video, this is probably the most common question that comes up.
The "spring" under the thumbstick cap is actually the capacitive sensor. Changes are that it is not properly seated or not making good contact with the metal case of the transducer. Pop the thumbstick cap off. Check to see that the spring is held by 4 tiny hooks. If not, thread them back on using some fine tip tweezers.
When you put the thumbstick cap on, you'll have to try and make sure that it goes on so the "spring" fits all the way up under the top of the cap. It's impossible to see, so the only way you'll know, is if the sensor is working. Try replacing it straight down, without tilting the transducer stick at all that seems to help. You can also try lubricating the upper part of the spring the round round bit of the thumbstick cap with a little isopropyl alcohol. It'll help them slide together. (I wouldn't use any actual grease since it has a tendency to migrate when it gets warm. The ipa will flash off as it dries.)
Hope this helps.
@@ImaRainbow A guide on this would be absolutely fantastic
for some reason i think i did something wrong everything works but when i have my thumb on it it doesnt detect it only when i press or move the joystick
The "spring" is probably detached from the metal on the transducer. (It actually a capacitive sensor.) There's 4 tiny clips that the spring goes through. Sometimes these will become detached. Use a pair or tweezers to thread the spring back through the clips. Hope this helps.
@@ImaRainbow talking about the spring my spring is literally broken and I can't find anywhere to buy a replacement. Do u have any links
Hey man the controllers now only go up and to the left like constantly
Did you try and rebuild them? If so, it sounds like a couple of the contacts are not making proper contact. You can try again or buy new ones off amazon.
@@ImaRainbow okie dokie
You are the "rainbow"! I was gonna say the man but I didn't wanna mis-gender you :D :D :D Anyway I just left the Meta community forum and pointed a Quest 2 user to your videos because if you can teach an old dog like me how to replace a joystick...you can teach anyone. Said it before...finding your page made my day.
I appreciate the support. He/him is fine.
@@ImaRainbow I will remember that
I cant get the spring back inside the stick for the motion sensor. I haven't found any video that helps, not even this one
You might be able to reseat the cap and make sure that the round part of the spring has slipped completely over the the round bit under the cap. It's impossible to see, so you have to just work it up as best you can.
@@ImaRainbow same i get a clicking noise when i move the analog sticks now, cant get the spring to sir over the plastic under the analog stick.. can i widen the spring?
I had stock black transducer instead of white. And the transducer metal plate holding mechanism is different , is it normal?
Is this from a oem controller? If so, how old is it? I would not expect them to change any design specs unless meta's making a new controller.
@@ImaRainbow It is the one that came with the Oculus Quest 2 package. I bought it new 1 month back . But it looks like it was manufactured a while back , since the box and logo says Oculus Quest 2 instead of Meta Quest 2 . And the transducer looks exactly like the black ones that you can buy from amazon or aliexpress. My warranty started the day I bought it , I checked meta's website and after disassembling the controller it does not look like it was opened before. My controller's model is LX39EM
Hello, I have a problem, I have stick drift on the left controller, I think it come from the spring of the stick, its à little folded, do you know what can I do when the spring is the problem ?
The spring is actually part of the capacitive sensor. I'd find it unlikely that it's actually causing your drift. However, if you do want try to straighten it, I'd suggest detaching it from the body of the transducer first. Its made of spring steel, so you'd need to use two fine tipped needle nose pliers to control any bending you try.
Great video. Unfortunately it didn’t fix my problem. The right controller spins round in a circle and shoots off of the screen. I’ve already had a replacement from oculus ☹️
Sorry to hear that. This seems like a longshot, but have you tried the electronic calibration? ua-cam.com/video/wM-ijm64WnI/v-deo.html
I’ll have a look at that. Thank you 🙂
yo dude is it true that you wont have pressure sensor anymore after replacing the joystick?
i mean that thing where you put your thumb on the resting point and it points/thumbs up
No, it's not true. If you rebuild the transducer, it'll work just like it always does. Same thing if you replace it with one of the new ones.
@@ImaRainbow is there any video explaining this thing
Explaining a transducer? Probably. Explaining the controller, none that I know of besides mine, but I haven't looked around for awhile either.
It's fairly simple though. While it feels like you're moving the thumbstick in a circle, you're only actually moving it (right-left) X and (up-down) Y. Metal contacts that move in X and Y, create variable resistance, that's passed to the headset. The headset converts the X/Y resistance into coordinates, these get translated into movement.
Drift starts happening when the transducers produce inconsistent values, that the headset doesn't know how to translate properly. These can be caused by bent contacts, dirt, sweat, hair or anything else making contact within the transducer itself.
@@ImaRainbow can you like tell me which second of the video shows the transducer so i know not to mess with it too much
FYI: Aliexpress has replacement parts (including this joystick) for sale from several sellers.
Thanks. Amazon has them too, they're linked in the description.
@@ImaRainbow Now that the quest 2 has been out for a while, it seems there are many third party suppliers making their own compatible replacement parts. I've found many items, including the circuit boards for the controllers. Aliexpress has many parts.... You know the Chinese companies love to copy and make other companies' parts... they are infamous for that.
I'm willing to bet the parts on Amazon are coming from those same sellers on Aliexpress.
I'm sure that they are. I just know that getting a refund from Ali is painful. Getting one from Amazon is not. Mostly come down to how much risk you're willing to accept. Appreciate the input, Have a great day!
@@ImaRainbow Can't argue. I always try to pick a seller with a VERY good satisfaction rating. But the dispute policy helps (usually).
@@davidstephens189 I wish we could get some hall effect joysticks for the quest 2, no drift, longer life, smaller deadzone... Only benefits.
I had a problem this metal tabs hold it in play won’t go up with force I don’t know why but I won’t work
Try lifting the clips on one side, until they slip over past the plastic retainer. That will let you free one side first.
Fast forward it worked I did it and I just put I back together and the stick drift was completely gone thank you
That's terrific. I love a success story, great job!
soft hands brother
??
@@ImaRainbow en doulefki tou mauriou
This is the worst analog joysticck design ever, they take the N64 analog joystick and make it worse.
I wouldn't go that far, but they probably should've used a a hall effect sensor instead of the mechanical contacts. Constantly clicking them down and moving them around they're guaranteed to deform and start causing trouble.
I agree that this is pretty bad design, but I'd say the N64's analog stick is worse. This analog stick can be fixed by just re-bending some contacts, whereas the N64 analog stick gets all loose from cannibalizing itself from constant plastic-on-plastic contact and wearing.
If your too scared to do this you can use Wd-40 electrical and spray inside the joystick. You will have to do this around every month
Fear doesn't need to factor into your decision making.
If/when you're not able to clean your controller effectively any more (See this video- ua-cam.com/video/iitoevOXrf8/v-deo.html ) Rebuilding the transducer is an alternative to buying a new controller. I'm pretty sure I covered all of this.
That's a valid solution, for sure. I was doing it about one per month for a year (a lot of Pop One will stress that left stick! lol) and got tired of it. I bought new replacement analog stick modules (about $15 for a set of two) then used Ima_Rainbow's guide (along with one on iFixit) to replace it. It's like a brand new controller again; in fact, the new analog stick feels a bit "heavier duty" than the OEM stick-- there's just a little bit more tension which actually makes movement a bit more precise. Thanks again for the excellent videos and instruction Ima_Rainbow!
Cleaning the controller isnt a fix for everyone some people have more serious drift