I have a M18 literally sitting on the shelf for way too long. I remember using M18s all the time with kinoflos and then, when LEDs kicked in with the Velvet2 and L7C it just happened: HDMI disappeared. Thank you for reminding me of that beautiful light!
Awesome and very helpful video. Book light for the win. Small details matter. 5% better lighting, 5% better camera, 5% better camera movement, 5% better lens, 5% better acting, 5% better story, 5% better location, 5% better soundtrack, 5% better editing, 5% better marketing and public release add up to a 50% better project which is significant. Similarly, take these things away from a project 5% in each category and you can see how much a project can suffer. Thank you Abel Cine and Ribidium. 👍🎬😊
I learned two things: 1. the outputdifference between HMI and Tungsten on the same wattage and 2. the ARRI App. Definitly gonna use that in the future.
Thank you so much for this information... I am searching for a light source to use in book configuraton. I am so glad I found your video because I now know not to waste my money on budget lights that are not going to give me the output I need. But now I also know that I can never afford this light to become a filmmaker.
I disagree on the comment to emulate sunlight. If you want to emulate the sun you need to culminate the light and add an appropriate filter to create the characteristics of sunlight traveling through the earth's atmosphere. It is fully controllable and possible with readily available items. Issue in all scenarios is the cumbersome size for culmination and sufficient lumen output.
Can LEDs not mimic sunlight in any context or just when the subject is 3m or more away from the light source? I want to mimic the sun for video content in my tiny low/no natural light studio apartment. I have maybe 1-2m possibly less to set up a light. What light would you suggest for this?
The compression on youtube/H.264 makes these differences really hard to discern because they are often very subtle. Sigh. I wish everyone would upload in 4K.
Very helpful! Can you tell me what bounce and which stop silk you used for the HMI? Is there less than a meter between bounce and silk? Thanks for this Video!
Thanks Ivano. We used the Matthews Road Rags kit, which is a collapsible 4x4 kit. We used their 1-stop silk and the silver bounce. At full flood, we needed to have the HMI at just under a meter to fill the silk and it did get hot, so its best to keep an eye on anything that close to an M18.
@@Crimsonengine Isn't the point of a book light to be as soft as it possible can? For that matter, wouldn't it be a better option to use white foam since silver bounce is a bit harder? Anyway, great video!
You're forgetting the history of pre HMI. The Arc Light, the most beautiful light ever produced, gigantic hot and dangerous (goes BOOM if you turn it on wrong). The HMI was the compromise to "hey guys let's not blow ourselves up" but it lost the machismo, and quality. People used to make fun of HMIs, the way real men who killed their dinner made fun of guys who bought food from the supermarket. Then came LED Soy boy simps. The ugly green cast, the lack of strength, training, and danger (not as serious as boom, but a minor ouch [read: burn] from HMI) replaced all types of quality for mere convenience. HMIs burn out, bulbs need to be replaced on set. when they're 40 feet up, you gotta rebulb. Sucks, This is, "Hey I know the light sucks, but we can daisy chain them, and adjust the color from this iPad." I know this great Vegan place for lunch. We don't need the raw strength of a big steak lunch because LOL LEDs.
You obviously are not a working Gaffer/CLT with your statement. Just as annoying as a DIT telling me there's gran or magenta on the scope. Well the human eye can't see what the scope does. I use HMI, Tungsten, Photo bulbs(211,212, 213), LED(ARRI, Kino, Apeture, etc) on every job I do in Atlanta. Never in 30 years have I been contacted after a shoot saying the Lighting is not correct. You sound like a new young electrician with more book/youtube experience than actually being responsible for lighting sets.
Fantastic breakdown, I haven't used HMI's since film school but I certainly remember the incredible output.
I have a M18 literally sitting on the shelf for way too long. I remember using M18s all the time with kinoflos and then, when LEDs kicked in with the Velvet2 and L7C it just happened: HDMI disappeared. Thank you for reminding me of that beautiful light!
Glad we could help! :)
Brilliant content, clear, to the point, well shown. Thank you so much!
Awesome and very helpful video. Book light for the win. Small details matter. 5% better lighting, 5% better camera, 5% better camera movement, 5% better lens, 5% better acting, 5% better story, 5% better location, 5% better soundtrack, 5% better editing, 5% better marketing and public release add up to a 50% better project which is significant. Similarly, take these things away from a project 5% in each category and you can see how much a project can suffer. Thank you Abel Cine and Ribidium. 👍🎬😊
Excellent! Hope to see more of those videos.
Short post with good info. Always great to see footage comparisons.
Great video: articulate, informative, and to the point. Thank you my friend!
KEEP UP THE GREAT LIGHT COMPARISONS! Love it!
I learned two things: 1. the outputdifference between HMI and Tungsten on the same wattage and 2. the ARRI App. Definitly gonna use that in the future.
Love the Joker 800 at my work!
Very good and on the point. My budget just allows me to work with Nanlite Forca 500 or smaller. They are ok, but no Arris.
Very illuminating, like an HMI ! Thanks !!
Great examples create many followers!
Beautifully Done!
Thank you so much for this information... I am searching for a light source to use in book configuraton. I am so glad I found your video because I now know not to waste my money on budget lights that are not going to give me the output I need. But now I also know that I can never afford this light to become a filmmaker.
super awesome easy to understand vid! i know so much more now! thanks! Pete
I disagree on the comment to emulate sunlight. If you want to emulate the sun you need to culminate the light and add an appropriate filter to create the characteristics of sunlight traveling through the earth's atmosphere. It is fully controllable and possible with readily available items. Issue in all scenarios is the cumbersome size for culmination and sufficient lumen output.
Amazing video, delivering a great amount of information!
Thanx...! What do you think about Aputure 600D and Nova?
Super helpful! Thanks!
thank you very much, I learn a lot from this video :)
very informative thank you so much
Thank you REALLY! it is very useful info.
Thank you for the lesson.
very helpful! thanks for the video!
So useful. thank you
How many luxes have to reach to the actor's skin to be correctly exposed?
Can LEDs not mimic sunlight in any context or just when the subject is 3m or more away from the light source? I want to mimic the sun for video content in my tiny low/no natural light studio apartment. I have maybe 1-2m possibly less to set up a light. What light would you suggest for this?
Great content mate!
The compression on youtube/H.264 makes these differences really hard to discern because they are often very subtle. Sigh. I wish everyone would upload in 4K.
Did he do an Orbiter review?
u should compare the HMI M18 with the Aputure 1200D. This is a panel vs a spot light.
Exactly what I was thinking while watching the video. Besides that they have to add other light modifiers then compare both.
Very helpful! Can you tell me what bounce and which stop silk you used for the HMI? Is there less than a meter between bounce and silk? Thanks for this Video!
Thanks Ivano. We used the Matthews Road Rags kit, which is a collapsible 4x4 kit. We used their 1-stop silk and the silver bounce. At full flood, we needed to have the HMI at just under a meter to fill the silk and it did get hot, so its best to keep an eye on anything that close to an M18.
@@Crimsonengine Isn't the point of a book light to be as soft as it possible can? For that matter, wouldn't it be a better option to use white foam since silver bounce is a bit harder? Anyway, great video!
aputure is the best LED lighting
fantastic audio too... please share details of gears and set up... sexy audio man!!|
You're forgetting the history of pre HMI. The Arc Light, the most beautiful light ever produced, gigantic hot and dangerous (goes BOOM if you turn it on wrong). The HMI was the compromise to "hey guys let's not blow ourselves up" but it lost the machismo, and quality. People used to make fun of HMIs, the way real men who killed their dinner made fun of guys who bought food from the supermarket. Then came LED Soy boy simps. The ugly green cast, the lack of strength, training, and danger (not as serious as boom, but a minor ouch [read: burn] from HMI) replaced all types of quality for mere convenience. HMIs burn out, bulbs need to be replaced on set. when they're 40 feet up, you gotta rebulb. Sucks, This is, "Hey I know the light sucks, but we can daisy chain them, and adjust the color from this iPad." I know this great Vegan place for lunch. We don't need the raw strength of a big steak lunch because LOL LEDs.
You obviously are not a working Gaffer/CLT with your statement. Just as annoying as a DIT telling me there's gran or magenta on the scope. Well the human eye can't see what the scope does. I use HMI, Tungsten, Photo bulbs(211,212, 213), LED(ARRI, Kino, Apeture, etc) on every job I do in Atlanta. Never in 30 years have I been contacted after a shoot saying the Lighting is not correct. You sound like a new young electrician with more book/youtube experience than actually being responsible for lighting sets.
who hurt you