Just some clarification here! Always save and restart after making changes in your printer.cfg (this reloads and applies the settings you've changed) Some people are having issues with the z offset so i recommend setting / fine tuning that on the machine itself and not touching any of the printer.cfg settings for offsets. When tightening your bed the back left corner has a spacer that attaches to the cable strain mount for the bed wiring harness. therefore the tightest your bed can be is determined by that spacer. tighten this and manually level your bed to achieve the tightest possible level bed. **always check that your axis move freely and to not contact any other parts of the machine!
Any new users watching this ***DO NOT*** tighten your bed all the way down as suggested in this video. There are standoffs (actually belt holders) under the bed, if you try and tighten them all the way the standoffs will meet the bed and you will dome your bed.
+1. Unfortunately after reading this, my bed had been like that for few weeks already (I was wondering how come the build plate would no longer lay flat so soon) and I have dimples in the insulation, but at least I could release the pressure on it. In principle, this is not bad advice, but does not work for this printer due to these belt end caps. The author should add a note to the video.
@@TaelonOrigin I don't have access to one. Take a look under the bed, if you can see some uprights that aren't attach to the bed itself then I'd hazard a guess that the answer would be yes.
I have max and i've spent some very recent time adjusting the bed and learned some things. i think especially with max, that bed bow can be a lot. I had tendency to always "tighten" the bed when leveling, causing the center to be the highest point after few rounds.
I’m so confused lol I just ordered one and have absolutely no idea what I’m getting myself into and I don’t have any friends that can help me understand it any better
If you're new just watch his previous video about the neptune 3 line etc. My first ever printer was the 3 Pro and to be fair it was really easy to setup and I watched his video but also watched many others just to see if there were any differences. Truthfully just take your time and do things in steps, meaning, build the printer and make sure it's all level etc and then print parts pieces etc for a while and visually see what may happen or what you may not like about the models you're printing and then move on to the next step which would be the extrusion rate of the filament - look at examples of under or over extruding and see where you lie. A lot of these videos try to pack everything in one so it's overwhelming for a ton of people and these printers work pretty well brand new out of the box with zero tuning other than making sure it's level and calibrated etc. It's best to take steps but also enjoy the printer and note inconsistencies or issues from print to print and then tune on the printer every so often that way you can pinpoint what helped and what didn't if that makes sense. It is much harder to perfect the quality when you make tons of changes all at once you know. @@loghead2437
Just a word of warning for anyone doing this: I don't recommend tuning the pressure advance unless you think there's a problem with your prints. I followed the steps exactly, ended up with a value about the same as in the video, and it caused issues. After doing this, my prints had gaps and holes between outer walls and infill and it took me a day of troubleshooting to figure out it was the pressure advance. I reset it back to the default value and it's all good now. Sure, there's a chance tuning it may improve your print quality a bit but clearly it's not so simple to get this value correct. Chances are, they have it set at the right value from the factory.
Still waiting on my Nep 4 Pro and this is a great video for getting setup with klipper for a newbie to it like me. Can’t wait to get it setup. Thanks for taking the time!
Thank you so much for this super good video! I was having constant problems from stringing to my nozzle hitting the infill and by following your video nearly all of my problems have gone away! This video is one that every person with a Neptune 4 needs to watch.
@MasonBoyd659 I started using glue stick once in awhile and leaving the plate sticky and it helps quite a bit. someone said turn combing off helps. hate to resort to glue stick but if it works it works
This is incredibly detailed! Thank you for taking the time to show the calculations and what they affect on the printer settings. I've been debating about getting a new 3D printer and this might be my next!
I love this Neptune 4. I don't even get ghosting at 250mm/s. 121 point auto level with fine tune bed leveling knobs has been a good feature. I've not had a single fail print. Perfect first layer everytime.
Are you only printing with pla. I finally got petg to work with a filament dryer, flow rate 150, 30mm per sec. Z step finally adjusted. But it still gets thin every once in a while for seemingly no reason. Oh and I did a new nozzle and hotend tube.
@@Hood.Housekeeping I’ve had mine about five days and STILL trying to get a decent first level, I spent hours yesterday and got a half decent first layer and then this morning it’s so low that it is nearly scratching the bed. Worst purchase of my life so far.
@@thejoetandy Hi, Thank you for your email, unfortunately I have now received a refund from Creality as the Issue was beyond my capabilities. I do understand that many people would have no problem with the K1 but at 72 my knowledge is limited. All the best.
Love it! helped me a lot! one thing i would add: the different filament brands I use have inconsistent, different diameters. The range is between 1.66mm to 1.77mm. to make sure to get the best result, measure your filament before you follow this tutorial =)
I received my Neptune 4 Pro a week ago and got an equally awesome looking flat bed mesh by simply running the automated bed mesh level, looking at the values, turning the bed leveling knobs and repeating that process two more times.
@leonskum6864 - I didn't know about the "screws_tilt_adjust" in Klipper. Thanks! I was already impressed at how easily the automatic bed probing and the visualization provided by displaying the data allowed me to manually adjust the bed leveling on the Elegoo Neptune 4 Pro. It's way faster and easier than using a paper shim, where each adjustment impacts the others.
Thank you for this calibration tutorial. If you could clarify something for me that would be awesome. Is it recommended to calibrate the tuning tower extruder temp calibration, the extruder/ bed pid, and the pressure advance calibration for each type of filament? Changing the printer settings each time we change filament? Thank you again for this tutorial.
What do you mean level according to the back left corner? The auxiliary leveling function has you start at the front left and end with the front right. Does the order change now that the back left corner is tightened all the way, or do I level it like normal?
Im not too sure if I understand, are you saying that when we go to do the auxiliary bed leveling we should start with the far left corner, right? or do you mean before leveling, tighten the left corner all the way down tight, so that when auto leveling it reads numbers based off the tightness of that left corner making the measurements more precise for less vibration?
did you find it yet? im gonna have to look for one. if i find it ill paste it here. almost a good tutorial but as per youtube tutorial guidelines, there has to be a fuck up somewhere
Awesome break down. It would be awesome if this was automated, but the 3D printer doesn't come w lidar, extra sensors, etc. This is an appreciated breakdown to get the most out of a budget 3D printer!
Also, I did the z axis step and used VHS tapes bc cassette tapes are hidden in another box! That said loosening those z axis collars and tightening, I think another moment spent noting 2 screws each. I loosened, didn't remove the screws. Thanks again!!!
neptune 4 pro has a segmented bed of 2 sections , bed pid tuning as stated here only calibrates one section ,any thoughts? excellent content and presentation btw
Nice video! I don't get the step @1:09 for the back-left knob...tighten it or the back-right one as well? Tighten it according to what? Did you completed the auto bed leveling before?
I have the Neptune pro 4 and getting decent prints with out doing all this , not saying it’s not important but it’s Greek to me and a lot for others . Good that you know thanks .
I was going to say man... I will be receiving mine tomorrow so I was just watching some videos and I was reconsidering my life choices after watching this! I didn't think I was going to have to get into all this! I'm going to see how it works without having to do any of this. I'm not doing anything professional... And I'm usually not too unhappy with my prints even if they have a little layer line here or there or something. But if I need it at least I know this is there. I am saving it for future reference.
WARNING: 3:42 Altering z offset in the probe section did not work for me. I entered the same z offset that was working perfectly in the printer interface and it caused further prints to fail. Perhaps it should be the negative of that value or placed in a different section. That part of the video needs some clarification.
Mine also didn't work. I was lucky it is printing in the air instead of leaving a groove on the build plate. This video also didn't show how to tune input shaping.
Yeah it looks like Elegoo stores the z-offset in a non-standard place. Just need to remember to only set the z-offset through the screen or through fluid but not both. Hopefully future firmware updates will be more compatible with standard klipper.
I don't know why he even included that tbh, it is better to just keep this set on the printer itself since you are adjusting it there to begin with. There's really no reason or benefit to do it within the config file that I can see.
This is all super advanced for me. Right now the nozzle starts hitting my print about 15cm high and if i can't find a quick fix for it soon I will be returning the printer.
I loosened what looked like the grub screw at the :54 mark, but that just made the top belt come free. It didn't release the gantry to level it. Unless you have to apply a ridiculous amount of force?
google z binding and loosen the specific screws on the z-axis, not all the screws/bolts are supposed to be tight so the printer naturally compensates for imperfections in the screws
Thanks for the video man it's super helpful video for a newbie like me :D A couple questions re PID tuning. When you say turn on the part cooling fan for PID calibration, does that include the auxiliary fan array? As when I turn on my part cooling fan from Fluidd the auxiliary fan comes on with it - and that thing is blasting air 👀 When calibrating the bed PID do you still have the fan on? And if so where should I position the gantry so that the fan array is on the side blowing across the whole bed, rather than in the center as it was for the extruder calibration?
When I turn the fan on with the variable control in Fluidd, it only controls the auxiliary fan. I think he wants us to turn that fan on. If the noise bothers you, you can set that value to 80% which is equvialent to "normal" mode on the UI on the printer. He has you set it to "sport" mode mode with 100% fan speed on Fluidd.
A little tip after referring to this video for a while. Orcaslicer has the temp test and pressure advanced test integrated in the software. No need to put all those commands. Just click, pick your intervals, and print
I really wish that elegoo had included these instructions with the printer. I managed to get by just fine until my last update, but now I apparently have to go through all of this. Since my break is over, this is going to take the rest of the year to fix.
Great video. I'm running an older laptop. I would like to connect the printer to the laptop. My printer shows a Mac address in the IP address on the display. What do I do, I can't seem to get the two connected. It just doesn't seem as easy as it should be.
Great guide!! Quick question - on the Pro, which section of the bed is heater_bed and which is heater_bed1? it seems that heater_bed1 is heating up for a heater_bed calibration and vice versa.
Forgot to circle back here. Elegoo had shipped my unit with my bed heater wires installed backwards. I managed to find a photo of the correct wiring. After flipping the wires, everything heats correctly now.
I love this printer I received one back in November 2023, I worked my way up to printing Carbon PLA and the prints where outstanding, last night I switched over to Carbon ASA and just had a a rough time trying to get just the first Lair to the bed and when I did managed to get past the first lair after about 10 -15 levels up the part would lift up in 2 spots and force me to abort the print. I looked at the bed leveling graft and it really looks horrible even after leveling the bed a couple of times , when I'm setting my z height in the leveling process my z number is at z -1.520 ? should I turn my leveling screws up all the way or even down all the way and restart the leveling process. my nozzle temp was set to 250 c bed was at 90c i did try it at 270c even 290c and my bed at 100c with no luck print Hight was .200 speed was at 200 and then 250 and i tried it at 300 I guess I'm lost and I think I'll start all over again tonight , maybe I should go thru what your explaining in this video I don't know can you suggest anything that may help me out Thanks
For wheel tightness, should the wheels be loose or super tight? On mine, the left side has super tight wheels that don't move when I try to spin them but the right ones are loose and spin freely. And how would I loosen or tighten them. I tried taking the hex wrench to the loose wheel and couldn't make it any tighter.
For anyone having this issue in the future - check to make sure the nuts are actually contacting the screw. They're captive so they just hang there if they haven't caught any threads
In your video you levelled the x-axis gantry. Can you expain more how to complete this, mine is off slightly (1mm) and Im wondering if this why my prints are striking infill 1" off bed. I did what you said but the right side is not staying down the same as the left
Thank you! This was super helpful, although this is my first fdm printer so there is still a bit of your video that I didn't understand because I am such a noob
1:13 I won't suggest leveling this way as it's not the greatest method, use the SCREWS_TILT_ADJUST instead and the head/bl_touch will probe on top of the screw location and tell you what direction and how much to turn the knobs to make each corner level as that is the best you are going to get if your bed is warped.
Great Video I have a big problem with my Leveling. When i select 'Leveling' and then select continue, the Z Axis is way too deep and the Nozzle gets pushed into the Heating bed. Any Help? (Elegoo Neptune 4) Thank you
You don't need to manually add the pid values. If you click save config then hit enter it auto updates them in to the config file at the bottom of the config.
Great video and information! One suggestion, level your booming music to the level of your voice. I had to keep turning the volume up and down depending on if it was music or dialogue.
You mention "setting the Z offset we got earlier" after entering the correct rotation distance. When did we get this? I didnt write anything down from before so how would I get this now? It's set to 0.0 in my config, but on the dashboard after all the other config steps, I see -0.690. Can I use that?
So I have tried all of the leveling stuff but my Z is a negative value. Is that normal. It seems you skipped a couple of steps mind going more in depth with it? Thank you!
I've had my Neptune 4 for 1 month now, I've had 0 fails and 0 stringing problems, my Z offset value is also negative. Idk if you are still having trouble (hope not!), if you need anything else don't mind asking me :D
Рік тому+6
Why you only tighten the rear left knob under the bed for bed levelling? Right after that I see you do the paper calibration having the nozzle in the front right corner. Can you elaborate more into this?
i just bought the neptune 4 max. already own an x1c. (i've owned many printers, the x1c earned them all a spot at the local makerspace). i guess the steps would be the same to tune the 4 max, right?
Clearly my head isn't on my shoulders and this may be a dumb question but when you mention fine tuning your bed after probing for the mesh bed. Is the tuning done manually or through commands? Would this just be adjusting the bed feet over and over?
How does the built in temp tower from orcaslicer compare to the temp tower command used here? The orcaslicer temp tower is easier to use at least, and I even scaled it up (X and Y only. left Z unchanged) to allow the printer to come up to speed more than smaller temp towers would allow.
0:56 this just works if the ground where the cassets are standing on is parallel to the print bed. Would it make more sense to place two similar objects on the pront bed? Because thats the ground we are pronting on?! No criticism, just an idea.
you actually want to level the gantry to the frame of the machine, then level the bed to the print head. the frame is known to be level therefore that translates to a level bed. hope that makes sense!
How to access Fluidd? All tutorials including this one start like the person knows Klipper or Fluidd but I bought the printer without any knowledge and I am stunned right at the start of this video. Would be nice to have had that part explained.
You need the printer connected to your network. Either ethernet or wifi depending on your printer variant. Then on the printer screen look in the settings > about and the ip address is at thr bottom. Go to your computer and put that ip address in your browser. Bingo.
got my neptune 4 pro, but have serious layer problems. now try to tuning wiyh your video. which slicer are you using? and profile? any help would be appreciated..
Nice Video ty, Comment out the watermark section, was what i was missing... Besides, wouldn't we have to put on the second bed heater also for an accurate PID tune? Edited: Misunderstood...
👍 Does it have dimension calibration values in the config file like xyz steps in Marlin? The speed of printing the calibration towers is set somewhere according to your default printing speed or it's hard-coded in clipper?
nice guide couldve used this when i converted my vyper to klipper :P i think you should probably have mentioned input shaper seeing how it's one of the features elegoo brags about, despite them not having a accelerometor, or even seemingly a conection for it..
@@randogame4438 making mistakes is how we learn. I bricked my machine the second day I had it. That mistake helped me to learn way more about my machine than I otherwise would have. Same goes for this tuning process. It's now helping me to recognize problems that I did not understand were problems previously. With that knowledge, my prints are looking better than ever and my confidence is at an all trime high when it comes to this machine and my understanding of it.
Is there some way to calibrate extrusion rotation distance and pressure advance for each filament type without manually swapping custom config files for each filament?
very noob question... how are you running that fluid software? Do I need a raspberry pi or something? Can I direct line a PC/mac to the printer? Any guide on that would be greatly appreciated!
I have a problem with my Neptune 4, the heat reaches the end of the teflon tube to the cold zone, deforms the filament with the help of the feed gears and gets stuck, what could be my solution?
Im looking to buy 8 of these to start a print farm, and Im wondering ıf ı will be able to run Enraged rabbit carrot feeder on the neptune 4 pro will it require a pi4, ?
you'll need to connect the printer via ethernet to your network. then you can connect directly to the IP address which you can find on the printer itself in the about menu!
@@WildRoseBuilds also do u use the slicer that came with the usb drive for your neptune 4? I know it came with a modified cura but it’s on 4.8.0 and ive been trying to use the latest 5.4.0 (i think thats the latest) but i just dont feel like I’m getting the best prints I possibly can with my neptune 4 pro i got just last week
@@blueboss9258 If I understand it correctly, the Klipper / FLUIDD control software is located on the printer itself and is accessed via the printer's IP address when connected to your network. It will appear in the web browser automatically when you enter the printer's IP Address into your browser.
the input shaping or resonance calibration is in the printer.cfg file. elegoo has provided a good baseline for this but there's a manual calibration walkthrough on the klipper website
My Neptune 4 arrived today and is driving me nuts. Every print I make has layer shifts on exactly the same heights. Everything above those layers or below is perfect. What can this be?
This may sound like a stupid question... but how do you get Klipper on a PC? I'm trying to tune my new Neptune 4 plus and am having the worst time getting to the software that is shown on this tutorial.
Not stupid at all! To get the computer interface you need to connect the machine to your network. Once you’ve done that you can navigate to the interface by typing in the printers ip address. The interface is a webpage that’s hosted on the printer itself. Once the printer is on the network the ip address will be listed in the info part of the menu on the printer. Hope that helps!
Just some clarification here!
Always save and restart after making changes in your printer.cfg (this reloads and applies the settings you've changed)
Some people are having issues with the z offset so i recommend setting / fine tuning that on the machine itself and not touching any of the printer.cfg settings for offsets.
When tightening your bed the back left corner has a spacer that attaches to the cable strain mount for the bed wiring harness. therefore the tightest your bed can be is determined by that spacer. tighten this and manually level your bed to achieve the tightest possible level bed. **always check that your axis move freely and to not contact any other parts of the machine!
Dear lord... perfect timing as I'm working on my Neptune 4 videos
Collab time???
Any new users watching this ***DO NOT*** tighten your bed all the way down as suggested in this video. There are standoffs (actually belt holders) under the bed, if you try and tighten them all the way the standoffs will meet the bed and you will dome your bed.
+1. Unfortunately after reading this, my bed had been like that for few weeks already (I was wondering how come the build plate would no longer lay flat so soon) and I have dimples in the insulation, but at least I could release the pressure on it.
In principle, this is not bad advice, but does not work for this printer due to these belt end caps. The author should add a note to the video.
Is that true for the 4 plus/max as well? The belt holders look like a separate bracket
@@TaelonOrigin I don't have access to one. Take a look under the bed, if you can see some uprights that aren't attach to the bed itself then I'd hazard a guess that the answer would be yes.
I have max and i've spent some very recent time adjusting the bed and learned some things. i think especially with max, that bed bow can be a lot. I had tendency to always "tighten" the bed when leveling, causing the center to be the highest point after few rounds.
The bed on my N4P is domed. I assumed it was like that from the factory but now I'm not sure.@@v.h.203
I feel like so much info was left out of this video that would've been helpful for people like me who are just getting into this hobby
I’m so confused lol I just ordered one and have absolutely no idea what I’m getting myself into and I don’t have any friends that can help me understand it any better
If you're new just watch his previous video about the neptune 3 line etc. My first ever printer was the 3 Pro and to be fair it was really easy to setup and I watched his video but also watched many others just to see if there were any differences. Truthfully just take your time and do things in steps, meaning, build the printer and make sure it's all level etc and then print parts pieces etc for a while and visually see what may happen or what you may not like about the models you're printing and then move on to the next step which would be the extrusion rate of the filament - look at examples of under or over extruding and see where you lie. A lot of these videos try to pack everything in one so it's overwhelming for a ton of people and these printers work pretty well brand new out of the box with zero tuning other than making sure it's level and calibrated etc. It's best to take steps but also enjoy the printer and note inconsistencies or issues from print to print and then tune on the printer every so often that way you can pinpoint what helped and what didn't if that makes sense. It is much harder to perfect the quality when you make tons of changes all at once you know. @@loghead2437
This isn't a video for beginners. You don't need it right now, keep it simple then come back later
Just a word of warning for anyone doing this: I don't recommend tuning the pressure advance unless you think there's a problem with your prints. I followed the steps exactly, ended up with a value about the same as in the video, and it caused issues. After doing this, my prints had gaps and holes between outer walls and infill and it took me a day of troubleshooting to figure out it was the pressure advance. I reset it back to the default value and it's all good now. Sure, there's a chance tuning it may improve your print quality a bit but clearly it's not so simple to get this value correct. Chances are, they have it set at the right value from the factory.
Still waiting on my Nep 4 Pro and this is a great video for getting setup with klipper for a newbie to it like me. Can’t wait to get it setup. Thanks for taking the time!
Thank you so much for this super good video! I was having constant problems from stringing to my nozzle hitting the infill and by following your video nearly all of my problems have gone away! This video is one that every person with a Neptune 4 needs to watch.
i have issues with nozzle drag too, and finding more issues recently with warping and zits etc... lol. but that nozzle drag is the most annoying
@@PWIZZLE7 Same I hate it so much.
@MasonBoyd659 I started using glue stick once in awhile and leaving the plate sticky and it helps quite a bit. someone said turn combing off helps. hate to resort to glue stick but if it works it works
This is incredibly detailed! Thank you for taking the time to show the calculations and what they affect on the printer settings. I've been debating about getting a new 3D printer and this might be my next!
If you haven't decided yet, I can say from my last 6 months with a Neptune 4, its definitely worth it. Best sub-$500 printer I've ever used.
Just placed my Neptune 4 order. First thing I'm doing is coming back to this video. Thanks!
Awesome congrats on the new printer!
Question. I keep updating my rotation distance in my printer cfg file but extrusion amount remains the same, 47mm extruded. Any suggestions? 3:10
@@mab4110 did you find the answer yet I have the same issue
I love this Neptune 4. I don't even get ghosting at 250mm/s. 121 point auto level with fine tune bed leveling knobs has been a good feature. I've not had a single fail print. Perfect first layer everytime.
Are you only printing with pla. I finally got petg to work with a filament dryer, flow rate 150, 30mm per sec. Z step finally adjusted. But it still gets thin every once in a while for seemingly no reason. Oh and I did a new nozzle and hotend tube.
@@Hood.Housekeeping I’ve had mine about five days and STILL trying to get a decent first level, I spent hours yesterday and got a half decent first layer and then this morning it’s so low that it is nearly scratching the bed. Worst purchase of my life so far.
Same. Impossible to get a decent first layer on this piece of junk. @@fredblogs
@@fredblogsany luck yet?
@@thejoetandy Hi, Thank you for your email, unfortunately I have now received a refund from Creality as the Issue was beyond my capabilities. I do understand that many people would have no problem with the K1 but at 72 my knowledge is limited. All the best.
Love it! helped me a lot!
one thing i would add: the different filament brands I use have inconsistent, different diameters.
The range is between 1.66mm to 1.77mm. to make sure to get the best result, measure your filament before you follow this tutorial =)
I bought the Neptune 4 Pro yesterda and im glad that this video exists. I havent understood anything but thats not important :D
2:00 - That's a very flat looking bed mesh!
Thanks for this excellent and very useful tutorial.
I received my Neptune 4 Pro a week ago and got an equally awesome looking flat bed mesh by simply running the automated bed mesh level, looking at the values, turning the bed leveling knobs and repeating that process two more times.
@leonskum6864 - I didn't know about the "screws_tilt_adjust" in Klipper. Thanks! I was already impressed at how easily the automatic bed probing and the visualization provided by displaying the data allowed me to manually adjust the bed leveling on the Elegoo Neptune 4 Pro. It's way faster and easier than using a paper shim, where each adjustment impacts the others.
Thank you for this calibration tutorial. If you could clarify something for me that would be awesome. Is it recommended to calibrate the tuning tower extruder temp calibration, the extruder/ bed pid, and the pressure advance calibration for each type of filament? Changing the printer settings each time we change filament? Thank you again for this tutorial.
What do you mean level according to the back left corner? The auxiliary leveling function has you start at the front left and end with the front right. Does the order change now that the back left corner is tightened all the way, or do I level it like normal?
dont follow that! i did and had to remove the whole bed to fix what it fucked up
@@royk8721 Ended up just bed leveling the normal way and then let auto bed leveling take care of the rest. Haven't had issues.
Im not too sure if I understand, are you saying that when we go to do the auxiliary bed leveling we should start with the far left corner, right? or do you mean before leveling, tighten the left corner all the way down tight, so that when auto leveling it reads numbers based off the tightness of that left corner making the measurements more precise for less vibration?
This video is single-handedly carrying the Neptune 4 users' mental health
Hey, where can I find the file you used to do the temperature calibration test?
did you find it yet? im gonna have to look for one. if i find it ill paste it here. almost a good tutorial but as per youtube tutorial guidelines, there has to be a fuck up somewhere
Awesome break down. It would be awesome if this was automated, but the 3D printer doesn't come w lidar, extra sensors, etc. This is an appreciated breakdown to get the most out of a budget 3D printer!
Can you do a non-PLA video?!? An accessory video such as new nozzle for abrasive filaments, replacement sheets or glass.
Also, I did the z axis step and used VHS tapes bc cassette tapes are hidden in another box! That said loosening those z axis collars and tightening, I think another moment spent noting 2 screws each. I loosened, didn't remove the screws. Thanks again!!!
Thanks a lot for the help! I had a hard time getting my printer to print for a long time... and this helped a lot!
Glad it helped!
neptune 4 pro has a segmented bed of 2 sections , bed pid tuning as stated here only calibrates one section ,any thoughts? excellent content and presentation btw
Can we have the link to the temperature tower you used? I can't find that anywhere
Same
Your tuning video has been so helpful. Thank you mate.
Can you please do a video of retraction ?
Neptune4 is my first printer, this video will be super handy thanks
Great stuff and thanks. Can you do a quick vid or comment on the heat tower ( link to stl etc ) and how to read it, pls?
Can I get a link to the tuning tower you use from about 4 minutes on??
Same
Nice video! I don't get the step @1:09 for the back-left knob...tighten it or the back-right one as well? Tighten it according to what? Did you completed the auto bed leveling before?
I have the Neptune pro 4 and getting decent prints with out doing all this , not saying it’s not important but it’s Greek to me and a lot for others . Good that you know thanks .
Yeah! Elegoo did a great job with the default setting on this machine!
I was going to say man... I will be receiving mine tomorrow so I was just watching some videos and I was reconsidering my life choices after watching this! I didn't think I was going to have to get into all this! I'm going to see how it works without having to do any of this. I'm not doing anything professional... And I'm usually not too unhappy with my prints even if they have a little layer line here or there or something. But if I need it at least I know this is there. I am saving it for future reference.
And thank you so much for taking the time to share this with people.
@@chrinamint get a bambu lab p1s
Best choice and easy or the A 1 mini
Kinda of small a start up unit .
I got rid of my Neptune glad I did !
Tkanks for this amazing tutorial! I was curious what retraction settings do you use in your timelapses because I don't see any stringing.
WARNING: 3:42 Altering z offset in the probe section did not work for me. I entered the same z offset that was working perfectly in the printer interface and it caused further prints to fail. Perhaps it should be the negative of that value or placed in a different section. That part of the video needs some clarification.
Mine also didn't work. I was lucky it is printing in the air instead of leaving a groove on the build plate. This video also didn't show how to tune input shaping.
Yeah it looks like Elegoo stores the z-offset in a non-standard place. Just need to remember to only set the z-offset through the screen or through fluid but not both.
Hopefully future firmware updates will be more compatible with standard klipper.
I don't know why he even included that tbh, it is better to just keep this set on the printer itself since you are adjusting it there to begin with. There's really no reason or benefit to do it within the config file that I can see.
you should add that wide tuning tower to your description so we can print it cause i cant find ANY like that to push the speed
I just pre-ordered my Neptune 4 pro….but now I’m having doubts, this video scared the crap out of me
I hope you had a good experience. I'll personally never buy from them again
@@johnlocke3481 I went through 2 units and got my money back, I ordered a Bambu Lab printer.
I just ordered one too it should be here tomorrow. Only I'm just now seeing this video. If I had seen this first I probably wouldn't have gotten it!
@@chrinamint I got 2 bad units in a row, I took it back ad got a Bambu Lab printer, elegoo is garbage
This is all super advanced for me. Right now the nozzle starts hitting my print about 15cm high and if i can't find a quick fix for it soon I will be returning the printer.
Thanks for this video. Do these settings apply to the Neptune 4 Max?
Can you please do a full tuning setup for the np4?
Thank you, my Neptune four Pro will be here tomorrow
I loosened what looked like the grub screw at the :54 mark, but that just made the top belt come free. It didn't release the gantry to level it. Unless you have to apply a ridiculous amount of force?
Great video, thanks. Now I just need to go rummaging around in the early 90s to find my cassette tapes 😂
I would love to see an tutorial how to tweak input shaping. I get alot of ringing and not sure how to do it on N4.
google z binding and loosen the specific screws on the z-axis, not all the screws/bolts are supposed to be tight so the printer naturally compensates for imperfections in the screws
PID can be done from the touchscreen menu under Advanced settings in the settings tab. Both work and both update the PID values.
Thank you so much, Im new to printing and couldn't figure out why my bed was leveled but the corners seemed closer to the nozzle then the center
Thanks for the video man it's super helpful video for a newbie like me :D A couple questions re PID tuning.
When you say turn on the part cooling fan for PID calibration, does that include the auxiliary fan array? As when I turn on my part cooling fan from Fluidd the auxiliary fan comes on with it - and that thing is blasting air 👀
When calibrating the bed PID do you still have the fan on? And if so where should I position the gantry so that the fan array is on the side blowing across the whole bed, rather than in the center as it was for the extruder calibration?
When I turn the fan on with the variable control in Fluidd, it only controls the auxiliary fan. I think he wants us to turn that fan on. If the noise bothers you, you can set that value to 80% which is equvialent to "normal" mode on the UI on the printer. He has you set it to "sport" mode mode with 100% fan speed on Fluidd.
How would you check the PID with the neptune4 pro, it has an center heater bed and an outer bed?
Hey,
How i make this in the 4 Pro with the Pid calibration because there are bed and bed1 ??
A little tip after referring to this video for a while. Orcaslicer has the temp test and pressure advanced test integrated in the software. No need to put all those commands. Just click, pick your intervals, and print
where can i get that tuning tower stl?
I really wish that elegoo had included these instructions with the printer. I managed to get by just fine until my last update, but now I apparently have to go through all of this. Since my break is over, this is going to take the rest of the year to fix.
Great video.
I'm running an older laptop. I would like to connect the printer to the laptop. My printer shows a Mac address in the IP address on the display. What do I do, I can't seem to get the two connected. It just doesn't seem as easy as it should be.
Hi, how much should i tighten the belts? I'm a bit confused by this, thank you
Would you be willing to do a video on how to set up profiles for the Neptune 4 in Cura 5? The stock Elegoo Cura is old and not that great.
i dont use cura! i like prusa slicer much better. they have a neptune 3 pro profile that works great with increased speed settings.
Awesome video! Thank you so much, would love to see more
Great guide!! Quick question - on the Pro, which section of the bed is heater_bed and which is heater_bed1? it seems that heater_bed1 is heating up for a heater_bed calibration and vice versa.
Forgot to circle back here. Elegoo had shipped my unit with my bed heater wires installed backwards. I managed to find a photo of the correct wiring. After flipping the wires, everything heats correctly now.
I love this printer I received one back in November 2023, I worked my way up to printing Carbon PLA and the prints where outstanding, last night I switched over to Carbon ASA and just had a a rough time trying to get just the first Lair to the bed and when I did managed to get past the first lair after about 10 -15 levels up the part would lift up in 2 spots and force me to abort the print. I looked at the bed leveling graft and it really looks horrible even after leveling the bed a couple of times , when I'm setting my z height in the leveling process my z number is at z -1.520 ?
should I turn my leveling screws up all the way or even down all the way and restart the leveling process. my nozzle temp was set to 250 c bed was at 90c i did try it at 270c even 290c and my bed at 100c with no luck print Hight was .200 speed was at 200 and then 250 and i tried it at 300 I guess I'm lost and I think I'll start all over again tonight , maybe I should go thru what your explaining in this video I don't know can you suggest anything that may help me out Thanks
any reason to do the bed mesh calibration through klipper and not the one built into the machine ui?
For wheel tightness, should the wheels be loose or super tight? On mine, the left side has super tight wheels that don't move when I try to spin them but the right ones are loose and spin freely. And how would I loosen or tighten them. I tried taking the hex wrench to the loose wheel and couldn't make it any tighter.
For anyone having this issue in the future - check to make sure the nuts are actually contacting the screw. They're captive so they just hang there if they haven't caught any threads
In your video you levelled the x-axis gantry. Can you expain more how to complete this, mine is off slightly (1mm) and Im wondering if this why my prints are striking infill 1" off bed. I did what you said but the right side is not staying down the same as the left
Thank you! This was super helpful, although this is my first fdm printer so there is still a bit of your video that I didn't understand because I am such a noob
How do you adjust after running the bed mesh calibration? In the tune menu I noticed my bed is still largely off.
1:13 I won't suggest leveling this way as it's not the greatest method, use the SCREWS_TILT_ADJUST instead and the head/bl_touch will probe on top of the screw location and tell you what direction and how much to turn the knobs to make each corner level as that is the best you are going to get if your bed is warped.
This is a great tip! Thanks for sharing 🙏🏼
what software are you using to make all these changes in?
hi, its the best
the command enable temperature tower dont start in my neptune 4 pro, why?😢
Great Video
I have a big problem with my Leveling. When i select 'Leveling' and then select continue, the Z Axis is way too deep and the Nozzle gets pushed into the Heating bed. Any Help?
(Elegoo Neptune 4)
Thank you
You don't need to manually add the pid values. If you click save config then hit enter it auto updates them in to the config file at the bottom of the config.
Great video and information! One suggestion, level your booming music to the level of your voice. I had to keep turning the volume up and down depending on if it was music or dialogue.
You mention "setting the Z offset we got earlier" after entering the correct rotation distance. When did we get this? I didnt write anything down from before so how would I get this now?
It's set to 0.0 in my config, but on the dashboard after all the other config steps, I see -0.690. Can I use that?
The pro has 2 heater zones in the bed. How do you PID tune both?
So I have tried all of the leveling stuff but my Z is a negative value. Is that normal. It seems you skipped a couple of steps mind going more in depth with it? Thank you!
I've had my Neptune 4 for 1 month now, I've had 0 fails and 0 stringing problems, my Z offset value is also negative. Idk if you are still having trouble (hope not!), if you need anything else don't mind asking me :D
Why you only tighten the rear left knob under the bed for bed levelling? Right after that I see you do the paper calibration having the nozzle in the front right corner. Can you elaborate more into this?
Yeah, I would also love to know.
Thanks for this great video! Can the same formula be used for the Y-Axis Rotational Value if my calibration model is the wrong length?
i just bought the neptune 4 max. already own an x1c. (i've owned many printers, the x1c earned them all a spot at the local makerspace). i guess the steps would be the same to tune the 4 max, right?
Puedes hacer un vídeo de hacer timelapset con elegoo neptune 4 pro
How tight Z axis wheels should be? I can rotate freely one of them using my finger. Is that ok?
Clearly my head isn't on my shoulders and this may be a dumb question but when you mention fine tuning your bed after probing for the mesh bed. Is the tuning done manually or through commands? Would this just be adjusting the bed feet over and over?
How does the built in temp tower from orcaslicer compare to the temp tower command used here?
The orcaslicer temp tower is easier to use at least, and I even scaled it up (X and Y only. left Z unchanged) to allow the printer to come up to speed more than smaller temp towers would allow.
I think the difference is that you can throw in any model you wish. You need to know the number of layers/section and klipper will change the temp.
0:56 this just works if the ground where the cassets are standing on is parallel to the print bed. Would it make more sense to place two similar objects on the pront bed? Because thats the ground we are pronting on?!
No criticism, just an idea.
you actually want to level the gantry to the frame of the machine, then level the bed to the print head. the frame is known to be level therefore that translates to a level bed. hope that makes sense!
How to access Fluidd? All tutorials including this one start like the person knows Klipper or Fluidd but I bought the printer without any knowledge and I am stunned right at the start of this video. Would be nice to have had that part explained.
You need the printer connected to your network. Either ethernet or wifi depending on your printer variant. Then on the printer screen look in the settings > about and the ip address is at thr bottom. Go to your computer and put that ip address in your browser. Bingo.
Filament brand/model? Hs pla is necessary or normal one is ok with speed 200/250 mm?
got my neptune 4 pro, but have serious layer problems. now try to tuning wiyh your video. which slicer are you using? and profile? any help would be appreciated..
i use prusa slicer with the neptune 3 pro profile and adjusted speeds!
Nice Video ty,
Comment out the watermark section, was what i was missing...
Besides, wouldn't we have to put on the second bed heater also for an accurate PID tune?
Edited: Misunderstood...
👍
Does it have dimension calibration values in the config file like xyz steps in Marlin?
The speed of printing the calibration towers is set somewhere according to your default printing speed or it's hard-coded in clipper?
what raspberry pi is good for the neptune 4/4pro
nice guide couldve used this when i converted my vyper to klipper :P
i think you should probably have mentioned input shaper seeing how it's one of the features elegoo brags about, despite them not having a accelerometor, or even seemingly a conection for it..
Thank you for really useful information 👍 but is it supposed to be done by Elegoo at the factory?
@@GenericCat Yeah, I wouldn't feel comfortable doing ANY of this to my printers config file..It's all greek to me and I can imagine messing it all up!
@@randogame4438 making mistakes is how we learn. I bricked my machine the second day I had it. That mistake helped me to learn way more about my machine than I otherwise would have. Same goes for this tuning process. It's now helping me to recognize problems that I did not understand were problems previously. With that knowledge, my prints are looking better than ever and my confidence is at an all trime high when it comes to this machine and my understanding of it.
Is there some way to calibrate extrusion rotation distance and pressure advance for each filament type without manually swapping custom config files for each filament?
i would like to know this as well :)
very noob question... how are you running that fluid software? Do I need a raspberry pi or something? Can I direct line a PC/mac to the printer? Any guide on that would be greatly appreciated!
I have a problem with my Neptune 4, the heat reaches the end of the teflon tube to the cold zone, deforms the filament with the help of the feed gears and gets stuck, what could be my solution?
assuming this process will work for the Neptune 4 MAX, what might I have to do differently?
Thank you for the video, but you showed examples of temp towers that are too small. You should include a link to one you find sufficient
great channel subscribed! what do you suggest this 4 pro or a kobra 2 machine? thx so much?thank yyy
where can i find this software to tune the printer?
How do we calibrate the step distance for x, y, z motors?
You would need to print various-size cubes.
For some reason mine won't do anything when I attempt the temp tower in the console of my Neptune 4 Pro's IP / Web UI ' fluidd' ?
Im looking to buy 8 of these to start a print farm, and Im wondering ıf ı will be able to run Enraged rabbit carrot feeder on the neptune 4 pro will it require a pi4, ?
Will this work with the Neptune 4 Max?
How do you control the printer with your computer???
you'll need to connect the printer via ethernet to your network. then you can connect directly to the IP address which you can find on the printer itself in the about menu!
@@WildRoseBuilds how do i get that software on my windows computer to send commands like u did after connecting the printer to ethernet
@@WildRoseBuilds also do u use the slicer that came with the usb drive for your neptune 4? I know it came with a modified cura but it’s on 4.8.0 and ive been trying to use the latest 5.4.0 (i think thats the latest) but i just dont feel like I’m getting the best prints I possibly can with my neptune 4 pro i got just last week
@@blueboss9258 If I understand it correctly, the Klipper / FLUIDD control software is located on the printer itself and is accessed via the printer's IP address when connected to your network. It will appear in the web browser automatically when you enter the printer's IP Address into your browser.
@@blueboss9258 Yes also wondering this, I only have a windows 11 pc
Does anyone know if this printer needs the input shaping to be enabled with the slicer or the klipper software?
the input shaping or resonance calibration is in the printer.cfg file. elegoo has provided a good baseline for this but there's a manual calibration walkthrough on the klipper website
@@WildRoseBuilds Thank you! This helped a lot! 😀
My Neptune 4 arrived today and is driving me nuts. Every print I make has layer shifts on exactly the same heights. Everything above those layers or below is perfect. What can this be?
this video is great but doesn't cover where to get the software to configure the e-steps or how to install it - does anyone have a link?
ive done calibration as u shown but my benchy boat as still stringing
that has nothing to do with this video, strining comes from temp,fan,speed settings
This may sound like a stupid question... but how do you get Klipper on a PC? I'm trying to tune my new Neptune 4 plus and am having the worst time getting to the software that is shown on this tutorial.
Not stupid at all! To get the computer interface you need to connect the machine to your network. Once you’ve done that you can navigate to the interface by typing in the printers ip address. The interface is a webpage that’s hosted on the printer itself. Once the printer is on the network the ip address will be listed in the info part of the menu on the printer. Hope that helps!