Quick Question, Do you need to have something previously etched on the dial to apply ink? Or would you be able to print a logo on it with just any dial you put under the printer? Also, awesome video! :)
You don't need anything etched on the dial for the paint to transfer. The etching is on the cliché, ink fills in the gaps and the pad transfers it from the cliché to the dial surface.
Hi. Thank you so very much for this! I want to make my own custom dial by firing vitreous enamel onto copper essentially creating a painting in glass. This means that I will have to make the dial from scratch, and my issue will be how to add the feet and enamel around them. I plan on finding a suitable watch and replacing the dial with my own. Another issue that I will have is with the thickness. With each layer of glass I may have trouble controlling the thickness. Your videos are so inspiring and I look forward to making my watch, and seeing more of your work.
Really nice video. I missed any info about what specific pad printer plus accessories you were using. Can you give give informations about the product and where to get it. Rgs Anton
Hi, thanks for the detailed video. I have a question about laser etching machines. They do not seem to be very expensive - at around the $400 price point. Would you ever consider adding one to your workshop to avoid having to outsource that step of getting the etching done?
The lasers you are talking about are meant to cut wood, acrylic, and other softer materials...maybe etch the surface of certain metals. Some people try using acrylic or other materials for plates, but typically stainless steel works best in my experience. I know 20-26 microns doesn't sound like much depth but you need the right sort of laser to do that work, and can also handle the reflective properties of the metals in question...e.g., steel, aluminum, brass, copper. To do this work, including cutting out blanks, date windows etc...you'd be looking at Fiber lasers generally, but my plates get cut with a YV04 laser. And such laser aren't cheap.
Hi. Very informative video for someone like me exploring pad printing. Question: when you have your laser shop etch the ink plates, how deep do you tell them to go for optimal ink holding/transfer?
We didn't measure it. We just know how many passes the particular laser (YVO4) does of the design. But, based on what I've read, I think most etchings for pad printers are around 24-28 microns in depth. Hope that helps.
Is there a maximum depth? Is the ink reservoir suppose to hold just enough for the printing? - is much left behind after the pad has picked up the ink (I'm wondering if light cuts from a pantograph would be too deep)
I'm not exactly sure, we didn't measure it. We just know how many passes the particular laser does of the design. I believe most etchings for pad printers are around 24-28 microns in depth.
Hi, sorry if I missed this, but I'm eyeballing the same printer and was wondering if the rubber pads are included or if I need to order them separately. If so, where did you get the main one you use for dials? Thanks mate, love your work!
I picked up a couple different sizes on eBay. They come from California and are like $6-7 each. I also got a black one that's more firm from the company I get my ink from (www.imprintor.com/), to test out at some point. That one was about $40.
Thanks for the video. Do you know of any online companies that make custom engraved plates. Maybe where I could upload my design and they would make the plate. I've tried searching for such a service and can't find anything. THANK YOU.
That was very interesting sir. I wanted to ask if you have had any experience with using laser engravers to directly print/engrave the numerals on brass dial blanks ?
Any thoughts on using a liquid mask to create an image that can be painted over but easily rubbed off to reveal the base metal? Kind of like the old rolex white pan am gmts.
I haven't experimented with that sort of thing, so I really can't comment on it. I would think the challenge would be to not mess up other parts of the dial/paint during the process.
Hello! Very informative video! Would you mind sharing the dimensions of the steel plates as well as the placement of the dial pattern on the plates? I have the same machine. I am trying to figure out where to start. thank you!
The template that came with the machine was 10cm x 21.5cm. The plates I'm using are not the same dimensions as the template, so I have to get custom holes punched to coincide with the ones on the template so it fits on the machine. To get the pattern in the right place on the plate is going to depend some on where you expect to have all the machine components aligned because they all move around in various directions. I put a little ink on the pad tip and pressed it on the plate and then measured to center of the paint from the edges. Then I drew a digital version of the plates/template to the correct external dimensions and then drew offsets to the four corner holes and to the center of the paint (i.e., what will be the center of the design) for each side of the plate (think north /south sort of logic...that is the plate swapped either direction). Not sure if that description helps, as it's easier to show with a visual. If you look at one of my blog posts (watchcomplications.com/2019/06/10/gmt-blue/) I talk about it and show the diagram I'm talking about in the "Make the clichés" section.
@@WatchComplications Thanks for a very thorough and in-depth response! Makes a lot of sense. Looking forward to more tips on how to make custom watches in the future.
Does it matter if I use the steel plate that comes with the pad printing machine? Because I bought the exact same machine that you have and it came with one steel plate. The reason I’m asking if there is any difference with the steel plate is because I did all the process that you said but the silicone pad won’t get the ink out if the plate not sure why could be the ink is not good ? Or is it the plate? I will really appreciate if you can help me
The plates I use did not come with the printer, as you probably know. All that came with my printer was one steel template, which may be what you are referring to. I use that to make sure the corner holes in my actual plates get punched in the right spot. If you are trying to use the steel template that came with the printer it may not work, as most actual plates have a different surface color. Still, there's a lot of variables for getting it to work right: 1. etching at proper depth (25 microns give or take), 2. a proper ink...I use a multipurpose pad printer ink, 3. ink viscosity...making sure you have the right amount of thinner, 4. good silicon pad for the transfer. If my plate and etching and such are all good, the most likely culprit for not getting good transfer is that the viscosity isn't right, in other words, add more thinner.
Hello, glad you are enjoying the series and channel. As for hand painting dials, I haven't tried it because I don't have that particular artistic skill. What I can do by hand is apply lume in various shapes. A future video in this series will discuss that process, as I'm working on such a dial right now.
G'day Mate Could I just ask the brand of the Pad Printer you are using I know you said chinese of Ebay but I would like to get one for myself. Many thanks and great work on all your tutorials? Ash
there is no brand really. it’s just one of the generic ones purchased off eBay from China. had a good deal and got it. if there was a distinct brand name i’d share.
Love the series. A couple of questions, if you don’t mind. There are some really cheap electric pad printers on eBay ($160aud ~ $110usd ... cheaper than manual!)... do you think they would be any good and what downfalls? With the inks, are they just a high opacity enamel? I’m just a hobbyist and really only want small sample inks and having trouble sourcing in Australia. I’ll keep watching the series in case you have already answered any of this in a future episode.
Hello. I would start by saying it's hard to say without considering a specific model, as there is quite a variety out there. I know most low cost machines are not that well suited for dial printing, and certainly don't have default fixtures to support dials. But if you are looking into low-cost options beyond the manual process I have shown so far in this series, you could look into film-free transfer paper. I plan to show that process in future videos, just haven't got around to it yet, but I will eventually.
I've asked the person that etches the plates for me, since he had them in stock from someone else he did jobs for previously for pad printing. If he get's back to me about their origin I'll let you know.
Watch Complications great thank you very much. Just wondering if you have any more available from the blue plates if you do is it possible to buy one from you?
Is it possible to pad print with luminous ink? Or would it be better to simply apply the lume by etching or carving the dial, and additively applying the lume to the dial, like in your other video? I want to make my own dial, to modify a watch that I own, with a 2416b movement, to have a custom logo on it.
You can print with luminous ink, you just have to source the right ink and/or get the viscosity spot on for it to transfer clearly and cleanly. I hope to experiment more with it myself over the summer. Applying lume in depressions or on applied markers is much easier than going through the whole process of home-based pad printing, in my experience.
I am considering purchasing a pad printer for my small watch dial restoring business, and I can't seem to find anyone who etches cliches in my area. I need an estimate on the cliche etching to determine if the purchase of a pad printer would be cost effective. Are you willing to share how much you pay for the etching of your plates? Or any knowledge of who I can go to to do this?
I’m lucky enough to have someone local to me that has a laser that can do this and it costs me about 75-100 for a design. Some services exist that do it as well if you can’t find someone local, but I prefer to work with local makers if at all possible. Easier conversation.
well, it is someone local to me that I can interact with face-to-face. That's really what I recommend you try to find if possible. There can be trial and error with these things.
50 years ago we had no silicone pads - we would melt gelatine into molds. Laser engraved plates, photosensitive papers? Way too simple! We would order hardened steet plates from Switzerland, coat them in wax, using a pantograph would scratch off the wax where required, then acid etch the markings. I could go on about galvanic silver plating, grinding up salt, precipitating silver, cyanide stripping, chloroform fumes. Tritium luminous powder. Radium on old dials flushed down the sink, along with some cyanide - frown on behaviour today. What is this modern witchcraft you use? It seems way too straightforward and lacks any the dangers we so enjoyed usually avoiding. And your ways slash the labour involved putting people out of work! Pad printing dials was a specialist job then - I never attempted to master it myself. Great video, I might just learn a thing or twenty here - but I miss the skin irritation and headaches from the chloroform. And the odd minor fires from acetone. All the dust issues of spraying lacquers taught me resiliance and many many swear words too. I still have a scintillation meter the Gov. required us to purchase for the Tritium license - I keep it in case those Ruskies get over excited and nuke us.
@@beautgrainger147 Hi. The applied wax protected all the plate top surface - the back was protected with shellac. The pantograph needle by scratching/cutting through the wax to the bare metal. This removed the protection of the wax - so you have a hardened steel plate fully protected from chemical treatment except for the lines/areas where the wax was removed from the plate. So you use acid to eat into the bare (but polished & hardened) steel plate only on the ares exposed by the pantograph needle removing the protective wax. You get an acid engraved finely defined line, or area, on an surface that you can use a steel spatula to apply ink/paint without fear of introducing scratches by spatula that also later add ink in random areas resulting in a crap result.
it would be much much easer, but wouldn't look very good. I've seen some tutorials out there that do apply a printed paper with glue, but a better option that is not as difficult as pad printing is using waterslide decals: ua-cam.com/video/mtwreFBs9ts/v-deo.html
Thanks, i plan to make few dials I'm in the process of making cliche and they asked me about the size my machine takes. I don't have it here yet that's why I asked. So 215mmx100mm looks like it
If you are referring to plans to build a dial/watch using the plates I used as an example in this video, I did build it. I don't show the pad printing for that one, but I did show this build when I got to applying lume and then a final review: ua-cam.com/video/kLATx3JZzwE/v-deo.html and ua-cam.com/video/PmY498QqJFo/v-deo.html
If I make and send you a vector file, could you get a plate made for me? I will compensate for your time/knowledge/costs, of course. I bought a machine but I'm having a hard time finding any resources on having plates made.
I use someone local to me with a laser. If you Google “plate etching services” “cliche etching” things like that, you will see several companies that provide the service. Different materials can be used and you’d need to have the plate dimensions for your printer.
@@shenzhenwholesale I don't know how the private messaging system in UA-cam works but if I have some time I can put a few of my desings online and I will link em
Tedious in the extreme! "Ok, you get a screwdriver, which is designed specifically to screw in and unscrew screws, and it is inserted into the fixture, making sure that the tip of the screwdriver inserts centrally on the surface of the screw. Then, mild pressure is applied to the screwdriver, and with a counterclockwise motion, my wrist unscrews the screw to the fixture. I continue with the counterclockwise motion until the screw is completely separated from the fixture. When the screw is wiggling in it's hole, that indicates that the screw is loose enough for removal, and signifies the end of the process of unscrewing the screw to the fixture..."
Dude you talk to much. we all clued up thats why we hear. Get on with it.. Thank you. frustrating you trying to explain your process, why not just do it in a run and talk us through it. it would be a lot better for your viewers and your channel. God only knows how ink is held inside a vessel like you showed. Surely the way you showed us it would just pour out, i thought the neo-mags where to hold a screen of some sort. everything else i got. but im halfway through. maybe you will surprise us. nice little set-up. you print lume too? arr ok, i got it the ink container stays stuck to the plate and slides back n forth, i got it on my hunt. those printers are fir sick. i was thinking to do dials with screens. but the pad is a sweet process. all doable by hand and a few 3d printed parts i reckon.
me talking through the steps in detail is what my subs like about my channel. too many channels exist that don't really get into the weeds and leave people guessing. skip around would be my suggestion. you can use the same process to print lume, I'm not sure why that is the expectation for this exact vid though. I usually set things up to lume by hand, which can be seen in some of my other videos.
@@WatchComplications Oh yeah its great information and you seem to be one of the few people that re actually documenting this process, its just that i feel it could be a condensed a little better.
On that point I agree. I am trying to get better at condensing and balancing saying everything that should be said, providing good context, with keeping the vids digestible. Still learning :)
He doesn't ramble, he explains the process. If going into the details is too much for you, you can just watch videos of pads stomping dials. Edit : Ok after the first 12 minutes it's boring
Quick Question,
Do you need to have something previously etched on the dial to apply ink?
Or would you be able to print a logo on it with just any dial you put under the printer?
Also, awesome video! :)
You don't need anything etched on the dial for the paint to transfer. The etching is on the cliché, ink fills in the gaps and the pad transfers it from the cliché to the dial surface.
Hi. Thank you so very much for this! I want to make my own custom dial by firing vitreous enamel onto copper essentially creating a painting in glass. This means that I will have to make the dial from scratch, and my issue will be how to add the feet and enamel around them. I plan on finding a suitable watch and replacing the dial with my own. Another issue that I will have is with the thickness. With each layer of glass I may have trouble controlling the thickness. Your videos are so inspiring and I look forward to making my watch, and seeing more of your work.
sounds ambitious. enamel is crazy hard to work with. all the best!
nice work! thanks for information
thanks. hope it was helpful
Really nice video. I missed any info about what specific pad printer plus accessories you were using. Can you give give informations about the product and where to get it.
Rgs
Anton
it’s a generic Chinese pad printer. You can find them on ebay and amazon, just search for pad printer with sealed ink cup.
I should also mention I got the ink and related accessories from a company called Imprintor, easy to find on google.
@@WatchComplications Thx a lot. 🙂
Thanks for all the information in this video. Can you link the pad printing machine that you have?
if you search on places like ebay for a pad printer with sealed ink cup you’ll find options
Hi, thanks for the detailed video. I have a question about laser etching machines. They do not seem to be very expensive - at around the $400 price point. Would you ever consider adding one to your workshop to avoid having to outsource that step of getting the etching done?
The lasers you are talking about are meant to cut wood, acrylic, and other softer materials...maybe etch the surface of certain metals. Some people try using acrylic or other materials for plates, but typically stainless steel works best in my experience. I know 20-26 microns doesn't sound like much depth but you need the right sort of laser to do that work, and can also handle the reflective properties of the metals in question...e.g., steel, aluminum, brass, copper. To do this work, including cutting out blanks, date windows etc...you'd be looking at Fiber lasers generally, but my plates get cut with a YV04 laser. And such laser aren't cheap.
Hi. Very informative video for someone like me exploring pad printing. Question: when you have your laser shop etch the ink plates, how deep do you tell them to go for optimal ink holding/transfer?
We didn't measure it. We just know how many passes the particular laser (YVO4) does of the design. But, based on what I've read, I think most etchings for pad printers are around 24-28 microns in depth. Hope that helps.
@@WatchComplications Very helpful! So I’ll short for 0.001” deep and adjust from there.
Paint viscosity and timing also has a significant impact on how well the ink transfers, so keep that in mind. Just more variables.
Is there a maximum depth? Is the ink reservoir suppose to hold just enough for the printing? - is much left behind after the pad has picked up the ink
(I'm wondering if light cuts from a pantograph would be too deep)
Excellent dear.
thanks for watching
Hi thanks for the great video's.
Van you tell me how deep the laser is in the plate?
I'm not exactly sure, we didn't measure it. We just know how many passes the particular laser does of the design. I believe most etchings for pad printers are around 24-28 microns in depth.
Hi, sorry if I missed this, but I'm eyeballing the same printer and was wondering if the rubber pads are included or if I need to order them separately. If so, where did you get the main one you use for dials? Thanks mate, love your work!
I picked up a couple different sizes on eBay. They come from California and are like $6-7 each. I also got a black one that's more firm from the company I get my ink from (www.imprintor.com/), to test out at some point. That one was about $40.
Thanks for the video. Do you know of any online companies that make custom engraved plates. Maybe where I could upload my design and they would make the plate. I've tried searching for such a service and can't find anything. THANK YOU.
if you google "etching pad printing plates" or "cliches" you will get a variety of results.
That was very interesting sir. I wanted to ask if you have had any experience with using laser engravers to directly print/engrave the numerals on brass dial blanks ?
I have not done that myself yet. Hopefully when I get my own laser. There are some people in watch modding FB groups that do it.
Hello mister, great videos and content, have you tried to make a watch dial using 3d resin printer?
I have had access to a resin printer and have considered trying before, but haven't yet. maybe at some point.
Any thoughts on using a liquid mask to create an image that can be painted over but easily rubbed off to reveal the base metal? Kind of like the old rolex white pan am gmts.
I haven't experimented with that sort of thing, so I really can't comment on it. I would think the challenge would be to not mess up other parts of the dial/paint during the process.
Hello! Very informative video! Would you mind sharing the dimensions of the steel plates as well as the placement of the dial pattern on the plates? I have the same machine. I am trying to figure out where to start. thank you!
The template that came with the machine was 10cm x 21.5cm. The plates I'm using are not the same dimensions as the template, so I have to get custom holes punched to coincide with the ones on the template so it fits on the machine. To get the pattern in the right place on the plate is going to depend some on where you expect to have all the machine components aligned because they all move around in various directions. I put a little ink on the pad tip and pressed it on the plate and then measured to center of the paint from the edges. Then I drew a digital version of the plates/template to the correct external dimensions and then drew offsets to the four corner holes and to the center of the paint (i.e., what will be the center of the design) for each side of the plate (think north /south sort of logic...that is the plate swapped either direction). Not sure if that description helps, as it's easier to show with a visual. If you look at one of my blog posts (watchcomplications.com/2019/06/10/gmt-blue/) I talk about it and show the diagram I'm talking about in the "Make the clichés" section.
@@WatchComplications Thanks for a very thorough and in-depth response! Makes a lot of sense. Looking forward to more tips on how to make custom watches in the future.
Does it matter if I use the steel plate that comes with the pad printing machine? Because I bought the exact same machine that you have and it came with one steel plate. The reason I’m asking if there is any difference with the steel plate is because I did all the process that you said but the silicone pad won’t get the ink out if the plate not sure why could be the ink is not good ? Or is it the plate? I will really appreciate if you can help me
The plates I use did not come with the printer, as you probably know. All that came with my printer was one steel template, which may be what you are referring to. I use that to make sure the corner holes in my actual plates get punched in the right spot. If you are trying to use the steel template that came with the printer it may not work, as most actual plates have a different surface color. Still, there's a lot of variables for getting it to work right: 1. etching at proper depth (25 microns give or take), 2. a proper ink...I use a multipurpose pad printer ink, 3. ink viscosity...making sure you have the right amount of thinner, 4. good silicon pad for the transfer. If my plate and etching and such are all good, the most likely culprit for not getting good transfer is that the viscosity isn't right, in other words, add more thinner.
Watch Complications thank you for all the information I really appreciate that !!!!
Heyy really like this series, very informative. Question, have you tried hand painting watch dials? What’s your thoughts on that?
Hello, glad you are enjoying the series and channel. As for hand painting dials, I haven't tried it because I don't have that particular artistic skill. What I can do by hand is apply lume in various shapes. A future video in this series will discuss that process, as I'm working on such a dial right now.
G'day Mate
Could I just ask the brand of the Pad Printer you are using I know you said chinese of Ebay but I would like to get one for myself.
Many thanks and great work on all your tutorials?
Ash
there is no brand really. it’s just one of the generic ones purchased off eBay from China. had a good deal and got it. if there was a distinct brand name i’d share.
Love the series. A couple of questions, if you don’t mind. There are some really cheap electric pad printers on eBay ($160aud ~ $110usd ... cheaper than manual!)... do you think they would be any good and what downfalls?
With the inks, are they just a high opacity enamel? I’m just a hobbyist and really only want small sample inks and having trouble sourcing in Australia.
I’ll keep watching the series in case you have already answered any of this in a future episode.
Hello. I would start by saying it's hard to say without considering a specific model, as there is quite a variety out there. I know most low cost machines are not that well suited for dial printing, and certainly don't have default fixtures to support dials. But if you are looking into low-cost options beyond the manual process I have shown so far in this series, you could look into film-free transfer paper. I plan to show that process in future videos, just haven't got around to it yet, but I will eventually.
Hi, can you please tell me where to buy the plate?
The raw plates pre-etching?
Watch Complications the blue steel plate in the beginning of the video
I've asked the person that etches the plates for me, since he had them in stock from someone else he did jobs for previously for pad printing. If he get's back to me about their origin I'll let you know.
Watch Complications great thank you very much. Just wondering if you have any more available from the blue plates if you do is it possible to buy one from you?
Is it possible to pad print with luminous ink?
Or would it be better to simply apply the lume by etching or carving the dial, and additively applying the lume to the dial, like in your other video?
I want to make my own dial, to modify a watch that I own, with a 2416b movement, to have a custom logo on it.
You can print with luminous ink, you just have to source the right ink and/or get the viscosity spot on for it to transfer clearly and cleanly. I hope to experiment more with it myself over the summer. Applying lume in depressions or on applied markers is much easier than going through the whole process of home-based pad printing, in my experience.
I am considering purchasing a pad printer for my small watch dial restoring business, and I can't seem to find anyone who etches cliches in my area. I need an estimate on the cliche etching to determine if the purchase of a pad printer would be cost effective. Are you willing to share how much you pay for the etching of your plates? Or any knowledge of who I can go to to do this?
I’m lucky enough to have someone local to me that has a laser that can do this and it costs me about 75-100 for a design. Some services exist that do it as well if you can’t find someone local, but I prefer to work with local makers if at all possible. Easier conversation.
Can you share the name of the provider that does your etching?
well, it is someone local to me that I can interact with face-to-face. That's really what I recommend you try to find if possible. There can be trial and error with these things.
50 years ago we had no silicone pads - we would melt gelatine into molds. Laser engraved plates, photosensitive papers?
Way too simple!
We would order hardened steet plates from Switzerland, coat them in wax, using a pantograph would scratch off the wax where required, then acid etch the markings.
I could go on about galvanic silver plating, grinding up salt, precipitating silver, cyanide stripping, chloroform fumes.
Tritium luminous powder. Radium on old dials flushed down the sink, along with some cyanide - frown on behaviour today.
What is this modern witchcraft you use?
It seems way too straightforward and lacks any the dangers we so enjoyed usually avoiding. And your ways slash the labour involved putting people out of work!
Pad printing dials was a specialist job then - I never attempted to master it myself.
Great video, I might just learn a thing or twenty here - but I miss the skin irritation and headaches from the chloroform. And the odd minor fires from acetone. All the dust issues of spraying lacquers taught me resiliance and many many swear words too.
I still have a scintillation meter the Gov. required us to purchase for the Tritium license - I keep it in case those Ruskies get over excited and nuke us.
one of the most entertaining comments so far on the channel. thanks :)
I’d like to know more about this as well. Your comment pulls back the curtain on a mysterious process
How come you etched the plates with acid rather than directly with the pantograph?
@@beautgrainger147 Hi. The applied wax protected all the plate top surface - the back was protected with shellac.
The pantograph needle by scratching/cutting through the wax to the bare metal. This removed the protection of the wax - so you have a hardened steel plate fully protected from chemical treatment except for the lines/areas where the wax was removed from the plate.
So you use acid to eat into the bare (but polished & hardened) steel plate only on the ares exposed by the pantograph needle removing the protective wax. You get an acid engraved finely defined line, or area, on an surface that you can use a steel spatula to apply ink/paint without fear of introducing scratches by spatula that also later add ink in random areas resulting in a crap result.
what type of laser machine did you use? is it fiber laser or co2? thanks!
YVO4
is it easier just to print from a printer and glueing it on to the dial
it would be much much easer, but wouldn't look very good. I've seen some tutorials out there that do apply a printed paper with glue, but a better option that is not as difficult as pad printing is using waterslide decals: ua-cam.com/video/mtwreFBs9ts/v-deo.html
Where can i buy this printer ? Thank you do much !!
I got mine on eBay…
@@WatchComplications thank you. Can i buy the ink on ebay too ?
Maybe, I haven't looked. I bought my ink from Imprintor www.imprintor.com/
Tell me please. Is there manual pad machine for printing 140 mm.
Probably pads that can handle that...I recommend looking around online. Doesn't sound like you're printing anything related to watches though...
Hello,
Any chances you could tell me the size of the cliche this machine takes ?
they are about 8.5 x 4 inches
Thanks, i plan to make few dials I'm in the process of making cliche and they asked me about the size my machine takes. I don't have it here yet that's why I asked.
So 215mmx100mm looks like it
where did you buy the pad printer? thanks in advance
eBay, at around $300
Hey do you have any plans to build it?
If you are referring to plans to build a dial/watch using the plates I used as an example in this video, I did build it. I don't show the pad printing for that one, but I did show this build when I got to applying lume and then a final review: ua-cam.com/video/kLATx3JZzwE/v-deo.html and ua-cam.com/video/PmY498QqJFo/v-deo.html
If I make and send you a vector file, could you get a plate made for me? I will compensate for your time/knowledge/costs, of course. I bought a machine but I'm having a hard time finding any resources on having plates made.
I use someone local to me with a laser. If you Google “plate etching services” “cliche etching” things like that, you will see several companies that provide the service. Different materials can be used and you’d need to have the plate dimensions for your printer.
Hi do you offer any workshop or lesson if I am interested to learn?
Hello. Sorry, no I don’t do that sort of thing. But I will continue to publish videos of my process on the channel and website.
How deep does the laser etching need to be?
I estimate the depth is between 24-28 microns, which is a fairly typical range for plate etching that produces good results.
@@WatchComplications thankyou! much appreciated.
Hi.Please let me know the ink name and where I can buy it/Thanks.
Currently using this: www.imprintor.com/mulpurinkcom1.html
I design watch dials (digital images) i could convert a few examples into a dxf file and send the file to you if you're intrested
also nice video !!!!
Interested, how can one contact you? Any design examples? Thank you in advance.
@@shenzhenwholesale I don't know how the private messaging system in UA-cam works but if I have some time I can put a few of my desings online and I will link em
ua-cam.com/video/7hTBqIK72Ls/v-deo.html here is an example
if the video has a caption, that would be better. But still thanks for your sharing.
Captions are possible, just click the CC in the lower left of the video window and you will see the captions :)
Tedious in the extreme!
"Ok, you get a screwdriver, which is designed specifically to screw in and unscrew screws, and it is inserted into the fixture, making sure that the tip of the screwdriver inserts centrally on the surface of the screw. Then, mild pressure is applied to the screwdriver, and with a counterclockwise motion, my wrist unscrews the screw to the fixture. I continue with the counterclockwise motion until the screw is completely separated from the fixture. When the screw is wiggling in it's hole, that indicates that the screw is loose enough for removal, and signifies the end of the process of unscrewing the screw to the fixture..."
Dude you talk to much. we all clued up thats why we hear. Get on with it.. Thank you. frustrating you trying to explain your process, why not just do it in a run and talk us through it. it would be a lot better for your viewers and your channel. God only knows how ink is held inside a vessel like you showed. Surely the way you showed us it would just pour out, i thought the neo-mags where to hold a screen of some sort. everything else i got. but im halfway through. maybe you will surprise us. nice little set-up. you print lume too? arr ok, i got it the ink container stays stuck to the plate and slides back n forth, i got it on my hunt. those printers are fir sick. i was thinking to do dials with screens. but the pad is a sweet process. all doable by hand and a few 3d printed parts i reckon.
me talking through the steps in detail is what my subs like about my channel. too many channels exist that don't really get into the weeds and leave people guessing. skip around would be my suggestion. you can use the same process to print lume, I'm not sure why that is the expectation for this exact vid though. I usually set things up to lume by hand, which can be seen in some of my other videos.
The video has good information but god do you ramble too much. I dont know how you manage to say so little in so long
It's there for people who want to watch. There's bullet points there's drawn out explanations. Skip around. Sure I can ramble, but that's me. Enjoy.
@@WatchComplications Oh yeah its great information and you seem to be one of the few people that re actually documenting this process, its just that i feel it could be a condensed a little better.
On that point I agree. I am trying to get better at condensing and balancing saying everything that should be said, providing good context, with keeping the vids digestible. Still learning :)
@@WatchComplications Yep, it takes practice!
He doesn't ramble, he explains the process. If going into the details is too much for you, you can just watch videos of pads stomping dials. Edit : Ok after the first 12 minutes it's boring