Great vid! I am making my first dial from scratch. To confirm, at the end you apply 2 coats of metal primer. Is it a etching primer ? Then 2 other regular primer coats before the top coat ? Thanks!
I tend to apply 4-6 very thin layers of primer with 2-3 minutes between each application to a dial blank. Don’t use an etching primer unless you are going for an etched look on the base.
Nice bideo. But wouldn't it have been a lot easier to just wipe it with a paint remover? There's some nice gels that would have cleaned that straight off with a paper towel. No post sanding needed.
That depends on the paint remover. I have tested several types and most don't work as well as you think they would on dial paint. It is much quicker and less messy with sanding/polishing in my experience. However, if there is a specific type you'd recommend then please do share.
@@WatchComplications Don't have a brand name at hand. But marine paint strippers will take most anything off of brass. Gels work best. Dab it on. Let it sit for a few minutes. Wipe off. It literally bubbles up and practically falls off. "Paint" on watch dials is actually more akin to epoxy, not enamels. The most similar thing you'll find is for marine applications (ie. boats, not military).
Acetone! Seriously... That will wipe any paint in 5 seconds! Also, your setup appears nice but 1) the end result is 'domed' 2) massive scrath marks; you would be much better off taking a piece of sandpaper face up on a flat block of stone, wet it, and turn the dial face down on it and make a 'random motion' for a little while. Don't press too hard, and rotate the dial so yoru fingers don't 'favor' a spot; but the result will be smooth, and perfectly flat. Also, don't sand the bare metal to 8000, it's a waste of time if you paint it. Just do like 1000, prime it, wet sand it in the same way (face down on a flat, hard surface), THEN you can do higher grade WET sandpapers. You can also add a 'guide coat of non primer to make sure you are touching all the surface equally.
Agreed. This was fairly early on in my learning and it also provides an option, depending on how much, if any, chemicals people want to use. I progressively used finer grit paper on this until it was smooth. But the level of smoothness also depends on what the client wants the final texture to be. Thanks for the feedback!
Why would you use such a harshly coarse metal removing sandpaper when all you need to do is dip the dial into some MEK and strip off all of the old paint then just use some very fine sandpaper working to using a buffer to then polish the surface and avoid removing so much of the metal dial in the process you are using. That point when you switched from that sanding block to a medium grit, you are not only sanding or I would say filing down the overly deep gashes (scratches) you made from the coarse sanding block but you are removing yet more metal dial than one would need to prep for painting. When I begin a restore, I strip off the paint with a paint remover then I use my dremel rotary with a scour pad like attachment. The material used in scrubbing pots in the kitchen sink. -That type. When ypu sand so deep into that dial metal, you removed any machine tapering around the holes for the hands and the outer edge as well as any tapering of the date window. You shouldn't have to work on the spots you made from sanding in the first place. You're creating work that wasn't even necessary to begin with. Don't take it the wrong way..Not at all meaning to be rotten in anyway shape or form. -Only calling it out because I care and only wanted to bring it to your attention.. You do some awesome work Brian!
depends on what type of coating and how it was applied. A lot of times you can get away with certain paint thinners, but not always. Also, time. And also the look you might be going for under the surface. Always depends.
@@WatchComplications Much appreciate the reply. I am trying to see if I will have any luck with the technique of airbrushing. Have you ever done this or considered it?
Very cool, and I do have a lot of experience prepping dials. You're making it so much harder on yourself than needed. May I recommend to use a small glass bowl, and fill it with a minimal dose of acetone. Then dip the dial in it, leave it for a few seconds and you'll wipe off all the paint in one wipe. Then you don't have any deep scratches and can go straight to polishing. Here is a dial I made a while ago: ua-cam.com/video/Wx95TZtQdpM/v-deo.html
I agree, that is one route to go. But also depends if someone wants to use chemicals or not. I've done both. Thanks for adding the alternative to the thread though!
@@WatchComplications Your paint dust are also chemicals, but solid, so the difference is really very minimal. You could argue which is more harmful. Acetone occurs naturally in your digestive system.... Other than drying your skin, it's really quite harmless.
@@WatchComplications The end result will be the same, but the way there will be a lot easier and quicker. Just my 2c, I thoroughly enjoyed your printing adventures!
They have one in-house movement, the SH21, which they use in a few of their lines (dive, dress, aviation). They rely on ETA/Sellita for many of their watches, but they also use the SH21 quite a bit. I've had three of them, and also did a review of the movement: ua-cam.com/video/qA6B0S2YQus/v-deo.html
@@WatchComplications i wasn't aware. Never been a fan of their designs but i did see a retro style racing chrono that looks pretty sweet on their site.
Great vid! I am making my first dial from scratch. To confirm, at the end you apply 2 coats of metal primer. Is it a etching primer ? Then 2 other regular primer coats before the top coat ?
Thanks!
I tend to apply 4-6 very thin layers of primer with 2-3 minutes between each application to a dial blank. Don’t use an etching primer unless you are going for an etched look on the base.
I think the sanding allows the paint to adhere to. Excellent videos! Wish you great success with your business!!
Thanks! And glad you like the videos.
Nice bideo. But wouldn't it have been a lot easier to just wipe it with a paint remover? There's some nice gels that would have cleaned that straight off with a paper towel. No post sanding needed.
That depends on the paint remover. I have tested several types and most don't work as well as you think they would on dial paint. It is much quicker and less messy with sanding/polishing in my experience. However, if there is a specific type you'd recommend then please do share.
@@WatchComplications Don't have a brand name at hand. But marine paint strippers will take most anything off of brass. Gels work best. Dab it on. Let it sit for a few minutes. Wipe off. It literally bubbles up and practically falls off. "Paint" on watch dials is actually more akin to epoxy, not enamels. The most similar thing you'll find is for marine applications (ie. boats, not military).
I'll look into that more in the future. Thanks for the suggestion!
As I said above, acetone will do the job perfectly fine.
Try aircraft stripper. Just make sure you wear gloves!
Acetone! Seriously... That will wipe any paint in 5 seconds!
Also, your setup appears nice but 1) the end result is 'domed' 2) massive scrath marks; you would be much better off taking a piece of sandpaper face up on a flat block of stone, wet it, and turn the dial face down on it and make a 'random motion' for a little while. Don't press too hard, and rotate the dial so yoru fingers don't 'favor' a spot; but the result will be smooth, and perfectly flat.
Also, don't sand the bare metal to 8000, it's a waste of time if you paint it. Just do like 1000, prime it, wet sand it in the same way (face down on a flat, hard surface), THEN you can do higher grade WET sandpapers. You can also add a 'guide coat of non primer to make sure you are touching all the surface equally.
Agreed. This was fairly early on in my learning and it also provides an option, depending on how much, if any, chemicals people want to use. I progressively used finer grit paper on this until it was smooth. But the level of smoothness also depends on what the client wants the final texture to be. Thanks for the feedback!
Why would you use such a harshly coarse metal removing sandpaper when all you need to do is dip the dial into some MEK and strip off all of the old paint then just use some very fine sandpaper working to using a buffer to then polish the surface and avoid removing so much of the metal dial in the process you are using. That point when you switched from that sanding block to a medium grit, you are not only sanding or I would say filing down the overly deep gashes (scratches) you made from the coarse sanding block but you are removing yet more metal dial than one would need to prep for painting. When I begin a restore, I strip off the paint with a paint remover then I use my dremel rotary with a scour pad like attachment. The material used in scrubbing pots in the kitchen sink. -That type. When ypu sand so deep into that dial metal, you removed any machine tapering around the holes for the hands and the outer edge as well as any tapering of the date window. You shouldn't have to work on the spots you made from sanding in the first place. You're creating work that wasn't even necessary to begin with. Don't take it the wrong way..Not at all meaning to be rotten in anyway shape or form. -Only calling it out because I care and only wanted to bring it to your attention.. You do some awesome work Brian!
depends on what type of coating and how it was applied. A lot of times you can get away with certain paint thinners, but not always. Also, time. And also the look you might be going for under the surface. Always depends.
@@WatchComplications Much appreciate the reply. I am trying to see if I will have any luck with the technique of airbrushing. Have you ever done this or considered it?
airbrushing works quite well if you have the skill, from examples I've seen from other dial makers.
Very cool, and I do have a lot of experience prepping dials. You're making it so much harder on yourself than needed. May I recommend to use a small glass bowl, and fill it with a minimal dose of acetone. Then dip the dial in it, leave it for a few seconds and you'll wipe off all the paint in one wipe. Then you don't have any deep scratches and can go straight to polishing. Here is a dial I made a while ago: ua-cam.com/video/Wx95TZtQdpM/v-deo.html
I agree, that is one route to go. But also depends if someone wants to use chemicals or not. I've done both. Thanks for adding the alternative to the thread though!
@@WatchComplications Your paint dust are also chemicals, but solid, so the difference is really very minimal. You could argue which is more harmful. Acetone occurs naturally in your digestive system.... Other than drying your skin, it's really quite harmless.
Fair. Both ways are possible. Perhaps I will show that step in a future video.
@@WatchComplications The end result will be the same, but the way there will be a lot easier and quicker. Just my 2c, I thoroughly enjoyed your printing adventures!
You are correct. And glad you are enjoying the channel.
Christopher ward makes their own movements?
They have one in-house movement, the SH21, which they use in a few of their lines (dive, dress, aviation). They rely on ETA/Sellita for many of their watches, but they also use the SH21 quite a bit. I've had three of them, and also did a review of the movement: ua-cam.com/video/qA6B0S2YQus/v-deo.html
@@WatchComplications i wasn't aware. Never been a fan of their designs but i did see a retro style racing chrono that looks pretty sweet on their site.
The new C65 chrono does look pretty good. I like some of their designs and have several watches. Good overall in my opinion.
I have a watch business how can I contact you I have something to show you?
watchcomplications@gmail.com
@@WatchComplications I have mailed you please check that its important😊