Thank you for taking the time to show how to hook up to an older fuse panel, you don't see too many of these in use anymore. Although using plug fuses for a 240 volt load does provide the same protection for the wiring as a two pole breaker in a modern installation, there is a safety risk involved of there's ever a problem and a fuse blows. Only one fuse will blow, leaving part of the circuit live and even through you'll get a chance to enjoy a cold shower when your running late for work in the morning 😂😂 , it is not safe to begin fiddling with the water heater, unless you enjoy the feeling of being knocked across the room. That's why 240 volt circuits, as well as multiwire circuits where two halves of a receptacle are on the red and black sharing the neutral typically seen in kitchens from the 70s until the 90s, are required to be on a double pole breaker, or two single poles with an identified handle tie, because if either side trips you want to ensure that all power is removed.
This works and does provide over load and short protection, but I am fairly certain that the code book has not allowed "plug fuses" (screw in) to be used for 240 volt since the 1960's. Cartridge fuses that fit in a "pull out" holder are used so that removing the pull out removes power from both hot legs of the circuit. It would be good to clearly mark these for safety sake.
Thanks for taking the time to break down how the panel actually works, makes perfect sense once you know. I have probably the last generation fuse type panels built and I couldn't find any information on them other then wire gauge and fuse amp size safety tip or just change the panel. Glad to have some "entertainment" information on the practical side of using and modifying them.
Are you sure the wires need to be right across from each other in that box? I mean each leg only supplies 120 volts, two separate phases right? Not sure I understand why they need to be straight in line with each other.
I rent a house and we smelled a weird smell in the outside closet the other day. I went to turn my dryer on today and it wouldn't work so I went and looked at the fuses and the one that's labeled DRYER was burnt and busted . So I was told to replace the fuse. I took the fuse that was in the spot above it and use it since it was labeled as "N/A" well the dryer worked but wasn't getting hot. So I seen another video where a guy had only his dryer hooked up in a box like this with only 2 fuse spots both 30 so I thought hmmm...maybe It has to have the fuse in the one above it too. So I put one in it and the heat worked. I turned the dryer off and later started it back up for about 15mins and came outside and the fuse in the spot of the one that busted was pretty warm to the touch.
NOT a good idea. Replace the whole panel. That fuse you moved looks like 30 amp (it's green). What is that single 30 amp fuse going to? Wire does not look like 10 gauge to me. Can't imagine what would need 30 amp 120 volt. Also not a good idea to run 240 volt appliances with individual fuses as if one blows, the other is still hot. That is why 240 volt breakers are tied together so BOTH legs are shut off.
This method will work for feeding 240 volt loads with plug fuses, but it's not a safe way to do it. One fuse will stay hot when one blows, and this could be a safety hazard when you go to replace that fuse and your hand grazes the screwshell of the fuse you're removing. If you want to power 240 volt loads with fuses, it needs to be either a disconnect switch that disconnects both fuses simultaneously when you pull the handle off so you can safely change them. Or they eed a pullout fuse disconnect with both fuses in it, like you have for the A/C circuit on top. That green 30 amp fuse shouldn't be feeding any lighting or appliances that are not 240 volts.
If your water heater has an issue and has overcurrent or short circuit, it can blow one or both fuses. This is exactly the same as in the AC pull out. So far so good right? Not really. I’m from US and our NEC almost word for word (for all intents and purposes) is the same. These codes require that there be means of disconnect that turn off ALL ungrounded conductors in a branch circuit or multiwire branch circuit at the same time. That is why there are pull outs for 240 volts, 2 pole circuit breakers, and handle ties. So, does it work? Yes. Is it safe? The answer is yes and no. Yes it’s fused, no it maintains power at the heater if only one fuse is removed by someone to work on the water heater. I know, you are there, but maybe one a certain day you are not there, or you have left. You are putting someone else’s life at risk. Bottom line, it is a violation of the CEC (Canadian Electrical Code).
Thank you for taking the time to show how to hook up to an older fuse panel, you don't see too many of these in use anymore. Although using plug fuses for a 240 volt load does provide the same protection for the wiring as a two pole breaker in a modern installation, there is a safety risk involved of there's ever a problem and a fuse blows. Only one fuse will blow, leaving part of the circuit live and even through you'll get a chance to enjoy a cold shower when your running late for work in the morning 😂😂 , it is not safe to begin fiddling with the water heater, unless you enjoy the feeling of being knocked across the room. That's why 240 volt circuits, as well as multiwire circuits where two halves of a receptacle are on the red and black sharing the neutral typically seen in kitchens from the 70s until the 90s, are required to be on a double pole breaker, or two single poles with an identified handle tie, because if either side trips you want to ensure that all power is removed.
This works and does provide over load and short protection, but I am fairly certain that the code book has not allowed "plug fuses" (screw in) to be used for 240 volt since the 1960's. Cartridge fuses that fit in a "pull out" holder are used so that removing the pull out removes power from both hot legs of the circuit. It would be good to clearly mark these for safety sake.
Awesome great video not much videos on the old fuse panels thanks a lot from Cape Breton Nova Scotia
Thank you sir…very helpful…salute from Texas
Thanks hello from Canada
Thanks for taking the time to break down how the panel actually works, makes perfect sense once you know. I have probably the last generation fuse type panels built and I couldn't find any information on them other then wire gauge and fuse amp size safety tip or just change the panel. Glad to have some "entertainment" information on the practical side of using and modifying them.
Hey, thanks for watching
Are you sure the wires need to be right across from each other in that box?
I mean each leg only supplies 120 volts, two separate phases right?
Not sure I understand why they need to be straight in line with each other.
That was code back in 1943, technically it shouldn't make any difference where you put it.
Do everything at your own risk.
Bro you're a beast
Thank you
I'd also replace that ancient fuse panel with a modern circuit breaker panel...unless it's a rented house.
Well yeah But then the video would be called “how to replace a fuse panel with a breaker panel” lol
Thanks for watching 👍
You should make a video with the heater goes to the garage with a fuses box
Well, it would basically be the same set up
I have a question. What happens if you have the two fuses on the same side like
I rent a house and we smelled a weird smell in the outside closet the other day. I went to turn my dryer on today and it wouldn't work so I went and looked at the fuses and the one that's labeled DRYER was burnt and busted . So I was told to replace the fuse. I took the fuse that was in the spot above it and use it since it was labeled as "N/A" well the dryer worked but wasn't getting hot. So I seen another video where a guy had only his dryer hooked up in a box like this with only 2 fuse spots both 30 so I thought hmmm...maybe It has to have the fuse in the one above it too. So I put one in it and the heat worked. I turned the dryer off and later started it back up for about 15mins and came outside and the fuse in the spot of the one that busted was pretty warm to the touch.
Sorry not too sure
The dryer is different from this though a dryer has four wires and a water heater has three
NOT a good idea. Replace the whole panel. That fuse you moved looks like 30 amp (it's green). What is that single 30 amp fuse going to? Wire does not look like 10 gauge to me. Can't imagine what would need 30 amp 120 volt. Also not a good idea to run 240 volt appliances with individual fuses as if one blows, the other is still hot. That is why 240 volt breakers are tied together so BOTH legs are shut off.
This method will work for feeding 240 volt loads with plug fuses, but it's not a safe way to do it. One fuse will stay hot when one blows, and this could be a safety hazard when you go to replace that fuse and your hand grazes the screwshell of the fuse you're removing. If you want to power 240 volt loads with fuses, it needs to be either a disconnect switch that disconnects both fuses simultaneously when you pull the handle off so you can safely change them. Or they eed a pullout fuse disconnect with both fuses in it, like you have for the A/C circuit on top. That green 30 amp fuse shouldn't be feeding any lighting or appliances that are not 240 volts.
If your water heater has an issue and has overcurrent or short circuit, it can blow one or both fuses. This is exactly the same as in the AC pull out. So far so good right? Not really. I’m from US and our NEC almost word for word (for all intents and purposes) is the same. These codes require that there be means of disconnect that turn off ALL ungrounded conductors in a branch circuit or multiwire branch circuit at the same time. That is why there are pull outs for 240 volts, 2 pole circuit breakers, and handle ties.
So, does it work? Yes. Is it safe? The answer is yes and no. Yes it’s fused, no it maintains power at the heater if only one fuse is removed by someone to work on the water heater. I know, you are there, but maybe one a certain day you are not there, or you have left. You are putting someone else’s life at risk.
Bottom line, it is a violation of the CEC (Canadian Electrical Code).