Good to see you cater to the people who are just starting off doing their own servicing. If people don't have access to a low profile jack, if they drive onto two pieces of wood a few inches thick with the front wheels that can help give a standard jack a bit more room to be used.
You're not damaging the drivetrain by jacking up the differential, as it's attached to the subframe at the front and back of the housing. Just don't lift up the rear cover, place the jack under the main housing. On a 335d/i you have no other choice, as the exhaust has a brace directly underneath the subframe access point.
awesome job! You got me with the explosion. Some other video has you jacking up using the rear diff. I thought to myself, not a good idea which you pointed out. Thanks again!
On my F20 the differential housing is actually the official lifting point, but the last time I used it, it almost slid off the pad, due to a very slippery layer of rust protection 😅 I think I'll try the subframe next time 🤞
A useful video for beginners , however, you failed to mention a safety critical issue. These trolley jacks and in particular high lift variants do prescribe an arc as they raise up the vehicle. This means that the trolley jack needs to be free to move under the car as it is raised. If the jack can't do this because you are jacking on a very rough surface (as in your case), the jack will remain in place and it will tend to pull the car towards the jack. In turn, if the car can't move because it is chocked or in gear then raising the jack will cause the jack pad to pull away from the point where it was initially placed. If raised high enough, it can be pulled completely off and come crashing down, with catastrophic results . . . . take heed!!!
With that in mind. When jacking up the front under subframe/cross member and the car has electronic handbrake and is in 'park', then this arc, will it not fight against the brake and 'park', dragging the car forwards(at best...)and unseating the jack plate/pad and losing the lot? Obviously, the car needs to be out of both 'park' and handbrake. However, if it's an electronic brake, you may need a diagnostic tool to release this? Any thoughts?
Trolley jack looks like a great piece of kit, maybe time to retire my old jack, I've been making do with driving onto bricks to get the clearance and also takes a countless amount of presses to make it rise (I can feel the dirty minds out there lol'ing). Grats George on your new gift/trolley jack 👍
I have 3 manuals for my 2000 323 CI and not one of them has any information on lifting the rear or the front and one of those books is 150.00 BENTLEY PUBLISHING "Service Manual". The other two are Haynes and Chilton.
What if I want to lift all for wheels at the same time? Can I use 4 jack stands or is that not safe? Also what "TON" for jack stands should I get? 3 Ton - 6 Ton - 12 Ton
another great video as always george appreciate you, i was under the assumption i had to jack from the rear diff the iron section but showing that it is safe to do from rear subframe is real helpful. even if its abit rust the subframe? hoping it’s just surface rust but dont want to f*ck around and find out 😂going to be rolling my arches today on my E82
How about this, you use trolley (not low profile, but regular one) to lift car up on let say left side, but lift it up quite high and then put jack stand or rectangular piece of wood on the middle jacking point and then lower the car onto the middle jack stand of piece of wood, so the whole car is on the middle jack stand. I have to lift both sides at same to time to replace sway bar links but I dont have low profile trolley. Once I'm done, I put both wheels on and then jack the car again with regular trolley jack just too pull out jack stand or rectangular piece of wood (this looks much more secure then jack stands and I have it, it is rectangular piece of wood and it is indestructible.
amazing video thank you much for the help, by some reason I found more dificult to place the stands on the front side, where unfortunately is where i required them XD bad luck form me, but at least I understood the process thank you so much for the help
The central back lifting point is really too high, this is why people uses the differential box (which is really to be avoided). To go higher (and to secure the jack stands) a piece of wood or something has to be used between the back lifting point and the jack.
Not really true - I have a F20 M140 and referring to the official BMW service manual, the rear diff is the approved jacking point on my car. The only proviso is to ensure no load is taken by the aluminium bolted on end-plate as to do so can cause damage and break the oil seal, resulting in leaks - only jack on the cast iron section of the diff.
Can I just check, is the front central jacking point that black rectangular bit of perforated metal? I just want to double check before jacking the front of my car up on this as it does not look very strong at all.
Bloody Hell... That explosion bit scared the shit out of me! LOOOL
Hahaha
Good to see you cater to the people who are just starting off doing their own servicing.
If people don't have access to a low profile jack, if they drive onto two pieces of wood a few inches thick with the front wheels that can help give a standard jack a bit more room to be used.
Yep very true... A low profile jack is just for convenience👍🏻
Very helpful and thorough. I'm a new E60 owner and this gives me more confidence in getting under the car myself! Thanks!
Glad it was helpful!
The expolosion was hilarious! Thank you for this video. You did a very good job with it. Liked, subscribed, hit the notification bell.
U bugger u got me again.........even the friggin dog jumped LOL
Hahaha
LOL! You have no idea how much I appreciated that given how BMW made jacking up their cars so unbelievably vague.
You're not damaging the drivetrain by jacking up the differential, as it's attached to the subframe at the front and back of the housing. Just don't lift up the rear cover, place the jack under the main housing. On a 335d/i you have no other choice, as the exhaust has a brace directly underneath the subframe access point.
awesome job! You got me with the explosion. Some other video has you jacking up using the rear diff. I thought to myself, not a good idea which you pointed out. Thanks again!
On my F20 the differential housing is actually the official lifting point, but the last time I used it, it almost slid off the pad, due to a very slippery layer of rust protection 😅
I think I'll try the subframe next time 🤞
A useful video for beginners , however, you failed to mention a safety critical issue. These trolley jacks and in particular high lift variants do prescribe an arc as they raise up the vehicle. This means that the trolley jack needs to be free to move under the car as it is raised. If the jack can't do this because you are jacking on a very rough surface (as in your case), the jack will remain in place and it will tend to pull the car towards the jack. In turn, if the car can't move because it is chocked or in gear then raising the jack will cause the jack pad to pull away from the point where it was initially placed. If raised high enough, it can be pulled completely off and come crashing down, with catastrophic results . . . . take heed!!!
Very helpful, I noticed that it didn’t look like the jack was at full height as a result of what You described. Thank You.
With that in mind. When jacking up the front under subframe/cross member and the car has electronic handbrake and is in 'park', then this arc, will it not fight against the brake and 'park', dragging the car forwards(at best...)and unseating the jack plate/pad and losing the lot? Obviously, the car needs to be out of both 'park' and handbrake. However, if it's an electronic brake, you may need a diagnostic tool to release this? Any thoughts?
Like your videos pal.
I'm a beginner and find them very useful. Very nervous when it comes to working under car hope that gets better
Trolley jack looks like a great piece of kit, maybe time to retire my old jack, I've been making do with driving onto bricks to get the clearance and also takes a countless amount of presses to make it rise (I can feel the dirty minds out there lol'ing).
Grats George on your new gift/trolley jack 👍
Hahaha! Yeah I’d recommend getting one of these, much easier
JACK of all trades 👍
Hahaha
I have 3 manuals for my 2000 323 CI and not one of them has any information on lifting the rear or the front and one of those books is 150.00 BENTLEY PUBLISHING "Service Manual". The other two are Haynes and Chilton.
That's for this help, I've been wanting to fix my 3 series for a while but I'm only used to fiestas
You’re welcome!
Great video thank you. Easy enough to skip the Jack part lol
I’m due to do my brakes this week, is it ok to leave it on the trolley jack whilst I do each wheel?
Always best to use axle stands too
Nice, I wasn't expecting that, lol!
What if I want to lift all for wheels at the same time? Can I use 4 jack stands or is that not safe? Also what "TON" for jack stands should I get? 3 Ton - 6 Ton - 12 Ton
Lift the front then lift the rear
@@GeorgeAusters thanks for the reply. Going to go buy all my stuff today
another great video as always george appreciate you, i was under the assumption i had to jack from the rear diff the iron section but showing that it is safe to do from rear subframe is real helpful. even if its abit rust the subframe? hoping it’s just surface rust but dont want to f*ck around and find out 😂going to be rolling my arches today on my E82
In my opinion a rwd car should be jacked up from the front first, so it doesn’t roll. Having e brake on than for the rear after front
What about if the vehicle you are jacking up is AWD?
That's a good jack I dont own a bmw at the moment but you never know I might own another one in the future
Yep works very well!
Thank you just got a 1998 e39
Thanks for the info. Must say it's a good ad for the jack.....>!
I always thought trusting a Jack was dubious
Thanks for confirming…….Peace!!!!!!!
You did good.
How about this, you use trolley (not low profile, but regular one) to lift car up on let say left side, but lift it up quite high and then put jack stand or rectangular piece of wood on the middle jacking point and then lower the car onto the middle jack stand of piece of wood, so the whole car is on the middle jack stand. I have to lift both sides at same to time to replace sway bar links but I dont have low profile trolley. Once I'm done, I put both wheels on and then jack the car again with regular trolley jack just too pull out jack stand or rectangular piece of wood (this looks much more secure then jack stands and I have it, it is rectangular piece of wood and it is indestructible.
Great video. From the front aren't you meant to use the centre jack pad and place axles stands at the sides as you done in the rear?
Yes if you can access the front jacking point. M-sport models are very low
amazing video thank you much for the help, by some reason I found more dificult to place the stands on the front side, where unfortunately is where i required them XD bad luck form me, but at least I understood the process thank you so much for the help
Removing the front engine cover to access the sub frame....how to you safely crawl under the vehicle to remove the cover with out jack stands?
Why do you need to remove the front engine cover?
@@GeorgeAusters to access the sub frame to see the best locations for jacking/placing Jack stands
Excellent, just what I needed to know . Cheers
Glad to help Roger!
Do you put your car en gear and pull the handbrake? Or just neutral and no handbrake - hope you Will help and thanks for the always good videos! 👏👏
In gear and parking brake on
Thank you so much😎
Thank you for the video, excellent instruction and very clear on where the 5th (front) jacking point.
Glad it was helpful!
The central back lifting point is really too high, this is why people uses the differential box (which is really to be avoided).
To go higher (and to secure the jack stands) a piece of wood or something has to be used between the back lifting point and the jack.
Not really true - I have a F20 M140 and referring to the official BMW service manual, the rear diff is the approved jacking point on my car. The only proviso is to ensure no load is taken by the aluminium bolted on end-plate as to do so can cause damage and break the oil seal, resulting in leaks - only jack on the cast iron section of the diff.
07:28 as you can see my jack point is crumbling because an appropriate pad isn’t used in between
Great video George! Useful stuff.
Cheers Simon!
Thank you!
the explosion literally made me jump 😂😂😂😂😂😂
Super info George, thank you.
Cheers Gary
Another great one thanks 👌
Welcome Rocky!
Could you get under the front to reach centre jackpad . I have to drive up on some pieces of wood to get the clearance.
Depends how low the car and the jack is
Is the jack any good and is it heavy or fairly light
Yep very good
Nice one thanks George. Could you do one for the front two wheels? For doing Oil change etc ? Thanks a lot
Jack up Front Subframe
would it not be better to place stands either side or jack pads as this would save them getting damaged? is that secure enough?
You can place pieces of wood / jack pad adapter into the jacking points if you want to protect them👍🏻
Great video
Very Good One Bro and very useful
Thank you bro!
Next time Itd be nice if you didnt take up a third if your video with a jack advert. Otherwise thanks for the info.
They supplied the jack for the video👍🏻
Is there a front jacking point on the E46 as well?
Yes, in the middle of the front subframe
@@GeorgeAusters thank you sir 👌
Can I just check, is the front central jacking point that black rectangular bit of perforated metal? I just want to double check before jacking the front of my car up on this as it does not look very strong at all.
It should be a black plastic pad
Is it the bit you point to in the video at 9.22? Maybe it is but the bit you point to does not look like a black plastic pad to me.
Morning George, I have a 2016 X3 drive 28i the problem is the exhaust. pipe is in the way, any other areas to jack from ?
Rear diff is usually okay
Thank you !@@GeorgeAusters
Thanks george. Out of Interest, what is the deal you have struck with Dean @BMWdoc?
Cheers Stu, no deal mate
I just purchased the jack you promoted here. Is it very heavy?
Relatively light as far as jacks are concerned
@@GeorgeAusters cool thanks. Have you ever used this jack to raise the car via the front jack pad on your E60?
Yes
@@GeorgeAusters Cheers mate!
Nice video...👍
I wanted to see you jack up the front and get the dang thing up on 4 stands.
I showed where the front jack pad is
Hey George, what jack stands do you use? Mine seem to be too tall - I really have to jack the car up to get the car on them?
SGS Engineering ones
Thank you for this
Welcome Ben!
Thanks
Welcome Zoe!
This is should be fun
Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for watching!
👍🏼
you can't be safe even with jack stands, when your car is rusty (don't ask how i know lol)
Yes, and an earthquake hits too.
You need to use jack pads to avoid destroying the jack point, which now look in poor shape on your car…😮
Yes I do use them
Brought the same spec jack from Machine Mart.
Can you lift an X3 this way?
Yes👍🏻
That explosion was unnecessary