I don't know why they are trying to limit the power of ebikes because of a law. That's like limiting the power of a car or motorbike to a top speed of 100kph and engine size of 1.3L or something. Give me full power and let me choose if I follow the law or not. I'm not going to do 50kph on a footpath full of pedestrians but I would like to cruise at 40kph when it's safe to do so. I also may need more power than 250w to climb a steep hill. There should also be a throttle on all e-bikes. We shouldn't be trying to conform e-bikes to limitations of pedal power. I'm not saying people should be riding a tuned sir-ron flat out on shared paths but there needs to be some considerations made for the technology to enhance transportation options.
Those AU/EU laws drive me crazy. 250 watts and 25 kph just isn't enough for anyone but a retired couple on a flat surface, but more annoyingly, it's creating a lot of confusion among consumers, retailers, and distributors here in New Zealand, where some people aren't aware we're allowed to have a 300 watt bike with no speed limit. I'm even having to educate the reps for the major suppliers such as Shimano, who really should know better. Can't wait for our legislation changes though, we should be seeing more power, and maybe a 32 kph speed limit.
Like everything, a lot of the responsibility for safe use is up to the rider. My car is capable of 240kmh, but I don't exceed the speed limit, and drive even slower than the limit as appropriate. The "blanket" laws in EU/AU only inconvenience responsible riders, and make ebikes somewhat less practical in some ways. Obviously 32kmh in a busy area could be too fast, but if you're riding out in an open area like me, you reach the 25kmh limit most of the time and have to deliberately slow down to get any assistance. The NZ retailers are probably watching too much info from EU/AU. I was surprised when I visited Canada recently that their limit is 500W, 32kmh. How awesome would that be. I'd rarely use the car again!
30+ kph is what I average on my road bike when I'm not on an electric bike, easily. How fast I decide to travel is my decision, and in urban areas that aren't cycling friendly, I just have to be a bit more careful.
This is one of the reasons I went with a kitset build for my fatbike. Even fully ladened, I can get up to 50kmph on the flat (but I dont do that often) and average around 30kmph on most rides. As you may know or soon find out, increased speed comes with increased wear. In the last year, 2 chains and 4 sets of brake pads ...
Thats a bad excuse and comparison with the car speed. In a car you have signs and general speed limit, you dont on the bike path usually. Every now and then there is that random stereotypical grandpa who cant lift his ass anymore, but on his pedelec he is doing 30-40 kmh. You just dont see it coming, literally. You dont think there are other bike riders exceeding the cars' speed limit on the street. Most of the time you only hear them swooshing by and you are glad he didnt hit you. I hate those grandpas. How old are you`? It is just super dangerous and there are more and more accidents cause people overestimate what they are capable of controlling on the bike.
No, you live in a state where others live too and we have to realize our behaviour has consequences for others and vice versa. Is it ok for someone to steal your bike because he feels limited by accepting your property rights?
No. That would have the opposite effect and make the system think the bike is going twice as fast, so the peddle assist would only work up to 12.5 kmh.
Has anyone got a knocking noise from the motor when pedalling on a flat surface but goes away immediately when pedalling on an incline. Mine is the shimano E6001 series in Australia
On latest Shimano steps software it will give you error E014 after about 10Km if crank spin and wheel spins are the same. Before you could move the sensor back and spin the crank for about 100 times. No this does not work any more. Motor has to be replaced. So this is a warning for to user with newer Shimano steps system. I have not tested this version. May work :)
My friend has this problem with his Shimano steps voodoo bizango e any way of getting it working again as I don’t see why the motor would have to be replaced
Just about to buy a Miyata bike here in japan and it’s very similar to yours. Same motor. The mechanic has told me he would retune it for me and get rid of this ridiculous cap on the speed. So it should go up to 35/40 ish. How do you like the flat bars for long distances. I ask because I wanted a Yamaha with drop bars but it’s sold out for another 4 months. The Miyata has flat bars and I’m leery about it for rides over 50k. I’ll buy bar ends to help.
Maybe someone knows, if its easy to strip and make sensor cable longer ? At least the speedbox sensor cables for sale online has been stripped and the shimano connector is replaced with 2 pins.
Make sure your magnets are definitely strong enough, and close enough to the sensor. Also ensure the magnets are a close to 180 degrees apart (directly opposite sides of the ring gear) as you can, to keep the pulse lengths even. Aside from that, the only other thing I could suggest is that you have different firmware to mine that detects your trickery. Good luck. Cheers.
If you're referring to how the speed reading changes with how fast you pedal, then yes. Unfortunately that's one of the downsides of tricking the bike's speed sensing. The bike is no longer reading road speed, but now reading pedal speed, which is fairly meaningless. If you stop pedalling, the speed will read zero, and as you change gears the speed readout will change.
@@desparky Firstly, thank you very much for your attention. In fact, what I noticed is a constant change in measured speed. I believe this was because I did not stick the magnets symmetrically at the crown.
@@amaurinunes4339 Yes, that makes sense. By the way, I've since changed the rear sprocket from 21 teeth to 18 teeth. Now the top speed is around 45km/h (getting too fast for me!), but I rarely hit the speed limit of the drive now. Happy electric cycling Amauri.
If you use only one magnet it brings up an error. The control must already know the crank speed, and the wheel sensor, that is now also on the cranks, match.
The output is still the same, however the motor will be working for longer. It would be similar to the motor working if you were going uphill for a long time. I doubt you could damage it. I found that you could use the battery a lot faster if you really pushed it, but you are working pretty hard to keep the output power high for a long time. I would switch down to ECO mode most of the time and only use HIGH for extreme hills or headwind, so ultimately my battery usage was not much more than standard. I only did the speed "tuning" as an experiment, and put it back to standard after a while because I most often ride to and from work in the dark. 25kmh is fast enough in the night on a bike trail.
@@desparky mine it primarily used for commuting and a few casual rides, I mean yea it’s really fun to use but would prefer if it was just a tiny bit faster than 15.5mph(U.K. limit)
Okay my Miyata has been retuned just as yours is. Have you had any trouble with it? For Example, the display showing error(s)? Also wondering about long term wear on the motor .....
I haven't had any errors so far. The battery certainly discharges faster if you let it assist at faster speeds, but that's physics for you!!! Not sure about motor wear, but again, no problems so far.
I guess if you had access to the Shimano software that you plug the bike into, you may be able to change it. However Shimano probably have the feature locked and requires permission. Who knows?
David David It's bolted on from inside the chain stay. I can't remember if it's a cap screw (you need a hex key, hex wrench, also known as Allen Key... Depending on your country). Or it may be a torx bolt which needs a torx driver. I have both, so sorry I can't remember. I'm away from home ATM so can't check for you. Either way, you need to undo it with the tool inside the frame where the wheel is. It's a normal right hand thread, so same way as a normal bolt. I just removed the sensor, then screwed the bolt and fitting back into the frame for safe keeping. Good luck
slinkytreekreeper That would only allow you to go half the speed because the magnet would pass the sensor twice as often. I've never had an error, but I guess you could reset it by cycling the power.
My problem on my Shimano e6000 is I now have the e014 error message for moving the sensor and can’t get rid of it. So bike not running at all. Any idea how to reset the error message?
Alan Boyle I had the same problem. On the Danish Shimano side it says: Spin the crankarm clockwies up to a 100 times. Seen from the driveside of the bike. It worked for me.
Hej Niels. Jeg prøvede først magnet på pedalarmen, for enden af pedalen, men der fik jeg som fejl W014. Prøvede så som i videoen her, men det virkede ikke på min Steps 8000 motor, men pillede den ene magnet af som jeg havde sat på klingen. Nu spiller det 100%. Ingen fejlmeldinger og shimano motoren rykker som fanden ;-)
Kenya Hedges: that's strange. Mine worked both before and after the Shimano software was updated to the latest. Not sure if it makes a difference or not, but I made sure the two magnets were orientated the same way. ie. North poles both facing the sensor as they pass it. Also make sure the gap between the sensor and the magnets is as close as you can get. Good luck.
@@desparky Yup I believe it's the E6000, bought it in NZ a few months ago. I've tried with one magnet as well as two and both seem to trick the display into thinking it's going a lot faster than the limit, rather than slower than the limit. I'm still in my backyard seeing what I can try to do to get past that 25km/h limit. I've just tried 3 magnets arranged in a triangle around the crank and this also failed to work.
@@gamemak0r Bugger. What about trying 2 magnets 90 degrees apart (or not quite 180 degrees)? I wonder if that would work. I guess they are looking for sensor speed correlating to crank speed, or a factor of that. If the magnet trick didn't work on mine, I was going to build an electronic unit to sense the wheel speed, and emulate the signal to the wheel speed sensor input. That way I could just limit the output to a frequency that equals 24km/h. I know you can buy speed boxes, but I can build one for way less using a picaxe or arduino. Good luck trying to trick your one.
@@gamemak0r I didn't look into it because the magnets worked on mine. As an experiment I was going to buy a spare wheel speed sensor first before cutting the wiring so that I knew I could put it back to original. Then I could strip back the wires and measure the pulses from the wheel speed sensor. If it looked like it would work, I was going to connect an output to the shimano unit and feed it pulses until I got a reading on the speedo. For the input from the wheel speed sensor to an microcontroller however, you'd probably have to limit the voltage to 5 or 3.3 volts (depending on the microcontroller) with a Zener diode or something. Not sure what level the voltages to expect from the sensor. Once you've worked out what sort of pulse the shimano unit expected, then you could just send out a pulse whenever the input received a pulse, but limit the time between output pulses to keep it thinking the speed is less than 25kmh. I find picaxe a lot faster and simpler to get non critical stuff like this working, as my arduino programming skills are crap. Have fun.
I wish you had a better clarification on the location of two magnets by showing them insteads of the over explaining dissadvantages of this method ( which I assume most people already know from other videos).
Not sure how much more clarification you need as to where I located the magnets? As long as they are mounted anywhere that the sensor can pick them up as they pass. See here at 1:30 - ua-cam.com/video/m9YcULttU2c/v-deo.html
Arifur Rahman Akash If you're asking how much the hack costs to do, it's the cost of 2 magnets and a bit of hot glue. If you're asking about the bike, I paid about AU$4000 Australian dollars for it. Pretty expensive I realise, but it's got lots of good gear on it. All Shimano, 8 speed hub gears, hydraulic disc brakes etc.
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #1 НАЧАЛО ПУТЕШЕСТВИЯ [Новый сезон] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/380Q7gLWGvk/mqdefault.jpg)
Looking good, it works i tested for 1,5 km and my speed on GPS went to 32/33 km/h, on the display it was 25km/h
I don't know why they are trying to limit the power of ebikes because of a law. That's like limiting the power of a car or motorbike to a top speed of 100kph and engine size of 1.3L or something. Give me full power and let me choose if I follow the law or not. I'm not going to do 50kph on a footpath full of pedestrians but I would like to cruise at 40kph when it's safe to do so. I also may need more power than 250w to climb a steep hill. There should also be a throttle on all e-bikes. We shouldn't be trying to conform e-bikes to limitations of pedal power. I'm not saying people should be riding a tuned sir-ron flat out on shared paths but there needs to be some considerations made for the technology to enhance transportation options.
Those AU/EU laws drive me crazy. 250 watts and 25 kph just isn't enough for anyone but a retired couple on a flat surface, but more annoyingly, it's creating a lot of confusion among consumers, retailers, and distributors here in New Zealand, where some people aren't aware we're allowed to have a 300 watt bike with no speed limit. I'm even having to educate the reps for the major suppliers such as Shimano, who really should know better.
Can't wait for our legislation changes though, we should be seeing more power, and maybe a 32 kph speed limit.
Like everything, a lot of the responsibility for safe use is up to the rider. My car is capable of 240kmh, but I don't exceed the speed limit, and drive even slower than the limit as appropriate. The "blanket" laws in EU/AU only inconvenience responsible riders, and make ebikes somewhat less practical in some ways. Obviously 32kmh in a busy area could be too fast, but if you're riding out in an open area like me, you reach the 25kmh limit most of the time and have to deliberately slow down to get any assistance. The NZ retailers are probably watching too much info from EU/AU. I was surprised when I visited Canada recently that their limit is 500W, 32kmh. How awesome would that be. I'd rarely use the car again!
30+ kph is what I average on my road bike when I'm not on an electric bike, easily. How fast I decide to travel is my decision, and in urban areas that aren't cycling friendly, I just have to be a bit more careful.
This is one of the reasons I went with a kitset build for my fatbike. Even fully ladened, I can get up to 50kmph on the flat (but I dont do that often) and average around 30kmph on most rides. As you may know or soon find out, increased speed comes with increased wear. In the last year, 2 chains and 4 sets of brake pads ...
Thats a bad excuse and comparison with the car speed. In a car you have signs and general speed limit, you dont on the bike path usually. Every now and then there is that random stereotypical grandpa who cant lift his ass anymore, but on his pedelec he is doing 30-40 kmh. You just dont see it coming, literally. You dont think there are other bike riders exceeding the cars' speed limit on the street. Most of the time you only hear them swooshing by and you are glad he didnt hit you. I hate those grandpas. How old are you`? It is just super dangerous and there are more and more accidents cause people overestimate what they are capable of controlling on the bike.
No, you live in a state where others live too and we have to realize our behaviour has consequences for others and vice versa. Is it ok for someone to steal your bike because he feels limited by accepting your property rights?
works great; on the chainring I put 2 magnets originally used for speed sensor of a normal bike speedometer; my bike has e6000 from 2016
Has it thrown a code yet? Every time I try a hack with magnets it throws error e104
@@buckethead8873 same here! Did you find a fix?
Have you tried placing two magnets on wheel?
No. That would have the opposite effect and make the system think the bike is going twice as fast, so the peddle assist would only work up to 12.5 kmh.
Has anyone got a knocking noise from the motor when pedalling on a flat surface but goes away immediately when pedalling on an incline. Mine is the shimano E6001 series in Australia
On latest Shimano steps software it will give you error E014 after about 10Km if crank spin and wheel spins are the same. Before you could move the sensor back and spin the crank for about 100 times. No this does not work any more. Motor has to be replaced. So this is a warning for to user with newer Shimano steps system. I have not tested this version. May work :)
Is this the only way to fix e014
@@aleksandartodorov3695 For me it was. It seems that other have the same experience as well. Old solution settings thing back does not work.
My friend has this problem with his Shimano steps voodoo bizango e any way of getting it working again as I don’t see why the motor would have to be replaced
@@juliechadburn7907 Motor was replaced and i worked fine again. I tried all I could find on google, but nothing helped.
Just about to buy a Miyata bike here in japan and it’s very similar to yours. Same motor. The mechanic has told me he would retune it for me and get rid of this
ridiculous cap on the speed. So it should go up to 35/40 ish.
How do you like the flat bars for long distances. I ask because I wanted a Yamaha with drop bars but it’s sold out for another 4 months. The Miyata has flat bars and I’m leery about it for rides over 50k. I’ll buy bar ends to help.
Still working well? Its nice you can actually calculate round per minute of your legs spinnning
Yes, still working 3 months later.
Was gonna try this on my bike today but my cable is too short 😪
Maybe someone knows, if its easy to strip and make sensor cable longer ?
At least the speedbox sensor cables for sale online has been stripped and the shimano connector is replaced with 2 pins.
still works weel after a year,? getting the error often or it never hapenned ?
Благодарю Брат
I'd your firmware updated? And do you know if you can reset the Shimano firmware bsck to its original version if you have updated it?
No, not sure what version mine is, but it's the original firmware that came on the bike. Don't know if they can roll it back or not. Cheers.
I tried it, it works for about half a mile then I get a sensor error
Make sure your magnets are definitely strong enough, and close enough to the sensor. Also ensure the magnets are a close to 180 degrees apart (directly opposite sides of the ring gear) as you can, to keep the pulse lengths even.
Aside from that, the only other thing I could suggest is that you have different firmware to mine that detects your trickery.
Good luck. Cheers.
Hi! What firmware you have?
I´d tried the hack and the speedometer shows variable speeds at the same time. did yours too?
If you're referring to how the speed reading changes with how fast you pedal, then yes. Unfortunately that's one of the downsides of tricking the bike's speed sensing. The bike is no longer reading road speed, but now reading pedal speed, which is fairly meaningless. If you stop pedalling, the speed will read zero, and as you change gears the speed readout will change.
@@desparky Firstly, thank you very much for your attention.
In fact, what I noticed is a constant change in measured speed. I believe this was because I did not stick the magnets symmetrically at the crown.
@@amaurinunes4339 Yes, that makes sense. By the way, I've since changed the rear sprocket from 21 teeth to 18 teeth. Now the top speed is around 45km/h (getting too fast for me!), but I rarely hit the speed limit of the drive now. Happy electric cycling Amauri.
And if you would use only one magnet?
If you use only one magnet it brings up an error. The control must already know the crank speed, and the wheel sensor, that is now also on the cranks, match.
What is the actual limit of an e5000 motor? I would do this but don’t want it to break 👍
The output is still the same, however the motor will be working for longer. It would be similar to the motor working if you were going uphill for a long time. I doubt you could damage it.
I found that you could use the battery a lot faster if you really pushed it, but you are working pretty hard to keep the output power high for a long time. I would switch down to ECO mode most of the time and only use HIGH for extreme hills or headwind, so ultimately my battery usage was not much more than standard. I only did the speed "tuning" as an experiment, and put it back to standard after a while because I most often ride to and from work in the dark. 25kmh is fast enough in the night on a bike trail.
@@desparky mine it primarily used for commuting and a few casual rides, I mean yea it’s really fun to use but would prefer if it was just a tiny bit faster than 15.5mph(U.K. limit)
Okay my Miyata has been retuned just as yours is.
Have you had any trouble with it?
For
Example, the display showing error(s)?
Also wondering about long term wear on the motor .....
I haven't had any errors so far. The battery certainly discharges faster if you let it assist at faster speeds, but that's physics for you!!! Not sure about motor wear, but again, no problems so far.
desparky cheers .
Doe's anyone know how to let your bike think it's in a different country? Where it is allowed to drive faster? Could make a difference I guess
I guess if you had access to the Shimano software that you plug the bike into, you may be able to change it. However Shimano probably have the feature locked and requires permission. Who knows?
My standard bike does 32 km pedal assist
Great!
I can't figure out how to remove the sensor from the frame of the bike in the first place. How did you do it?
David David It's bolted on from inside the chain stay. I can't remember if it's a cap screw (you need a hex key, hex wrench, also known as Allen Key... Depending on your country). Or it may be a torx bolt which needs a torx driver. I have both, so sorry I can't remember. I'm away from home ATM so can't check for you.
Either way, you need to undo it with the tool inside the frame where the wheel is. It's a normal right hand thread, so same way as a normal bolt. I just removed the sensor, then screwed the bolt and fitting back into the frame for safe keeping.
Good luck
desparky Thank you very much. Much love from Sweden!
Could you just add another magnet on the wheel opposite to the stock one?Can any errors be reset by power cycling?Cheers
slinkytreekreeper That would only allow you to go half the speed because the magnet would pass the sensor twice as often.
I've never had an error, but I guess you could reset it by cycling the power.
slinkytreekreeper I
My problem on my Shimano e6000 is I now have the e014 error message for moving the sensor and can’t get rid of it. So bike not running at all. Any idea how to reset the error message?
I had that when I first bought the bike. I can't recall what I did to reset it, but try removing the battery for 10 seconds or so.
Alan Boyle I had the same problem. On the Danish Shimano side it says:
Spin the crankarm clockwies up to a 100 times. Seen from the driveside of the bike.
It worked for me.
Tony Ottesen - hej Tony . Har du prøvet hastigheds tricket ? Jeg overvejer, men er lidt nervøs ved at afprøve
Hej Niels. Jeg prøvede først magnet på pedalarmen, for enden af pedalen, men der fik jeg som fejl W014. Prøvede så som i videoen her, men det virkede ikke på min Steps 8000 motor, men pillede den ene magnet af som jeg havde sat på klingen. Nu spiller det 100%. Ingen fejlmeldinger og shimano motoren rykker som fanden ;-)
Hej Tony Takker for svaret. - Jeg tænker forsat over om jeg skal "pille" ved cyklen, - - jeg mener, tanken er vel at jeg også skal have motion...
I tried it and did not work!
Kenya Hedges: that's strange. Mine worked both before and after the Shimano software was updated to the latest. Not sure if it makes a difference or not, but I made sure the two magnets were orientated the same way. ie. North poles both facing the sensor as they pass it. Also make sure the gap between the sensor and the magnets is as close as you can get. Good luck.
I've just tried this with two magnets and got the opposite result, now it thinks I'm riding 99.9km/h when I'm riding around 6km/h...
@@desparky Yup I believe it's the E6000, bought it in NZ a few months ago. I've tried with one magnet as well as two and both seem to trick the display into thinking it's going a lot faster than the limit, rather than slower than the limit.
I'm still in my backyard seeing what I can try to do to get past that 25km/h limit.
I've just tried 3 magnets arranged in a triangle around the crank and this also failed to work.
@@gamemak0r Bugger. What about trying 2 magnets 90 degrees apart (or not quite 180 degrees)? I wonder if that would work. I guess they are looking for sensor speed correlating to crank speed, or a factor of that. If the magnet trick didn't work on mine, I was going to build an electronic unit to sense the wheel speed, and emulate the signal to the wheel speed sensor input. That way I could just limit the output to a frequency that equals 24km/h. I know you can buy speed boxes, but I can build one for way less using a picaxe or arduino. Good luck trying to trick your one.
@@desparky I have an Arduino mini with a Bluetooth unit I was considering using or a raspberry pi 3. How would you go about doing it with an Arduino?
@@gamemak0r I didn't look into it because the magnets worked on mine. As an experiment I was going to buy a spare wheel speed sensor first before cutting the wiring so that I knew I could put it back to original. Then I could strip back the wires and measure the pulses from the wheel speed sensor. If it looked like it would work, I was going to connect an output to the shimano unit and feed it pulses until I got a reading on the speedo. For the input from the wheel speed sensor to an microcontroller however, you'd probably have to limit the voltage to 5 or 3.3 volts (depending on the microcontroller) with a Zener diode or something. Not sure what level the voltages to expect from the sensor. Once you've worked out what sort of pulse the shimano unit expected, then you could just send out a pulse whenever the input received a pulse, but limit the time between output pulses to keep it thinking the speed is less than 25kmh. I find picaxe a lot faster and simpler to get non critical stuff like this working, as my arduino programming skills are crap. Have fun.
Any luck? I've tried the one mag with no luck and I was about to try this mod till I read this. Everything I try throws a error after about 10k
You have tutorials from first use magnet
No, sorry.
im planning to try this hack and see if it works on my bike. will report back
Did it work ?
I think he died trying lul
it actually worked! i'm still using the same bike :)
I wish you had a better clarification on the location of two magnets by showing them insteads of the over explaining dissadvantages of this method ( which I assume most people already know from other videos).
Not sure how much more clarification you need as to where I located the magnets? As long as they are mounted anywhere that the sensor can pick them up as they pass. See here at 1:30 - ua-cam.com/video/m9YcULttU2c/v-deo.html
has anyone tried driving without magnets?
The drive unit would just think you're stopped and not drive the motor at all.
no magnet =no speed info= no Motor assist ;)
I found this guy's alternative 3d printed idea here: ua-cam.com/video/_Ecj4Mzsxsg/v-deo.html
how much is it.
Arifur Rahman Akash If you're asking how much the hack costs to do, it's the cost of 2 magnets and a bit of hot glue. If you're asking about the bike, I paid about AU$4000 Australian dollars for it. Pretty expensive I realise, but it's got lots of good gear on it. All Shimano, 8 speed hub gears, hydraulic disc brakes etc.
Not good, error was here
Did you use TWO magnets. I got an error with only one magnet. Also, this was years ago now and the Shimano firmware may be different.
Hi! What firmware you have?
Hi! What firmware you have?
I sold the bike recently so I can't check, sorry.