CR-10 S4 Troubleshooting: Locked Z Axis/Coupler Fix
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- Опубліковано 14 жов 2024
- This video explains how to fix your Creality CR-10-S4 printer when you are trying to print something and one of the couplers stops rotating resulting in a locked z axis. If you have any questions feel free to comment below, hope this helped!
Dawg THANK YOU! Literally solved my exact issue and all I had to do was just relevel my print bed after I screwed them in. My screws were actually too loose so all I had to do was tighten them then loosen them by half a turn
Dude!!!! 1 and a half years later your video SAVED me!!!! thank you
Glad it helped! Thanks for stopping by the channel
THANK YOU for a 3 minute video that explained this clearly. No extra stuff, just the facts. Helped my CR 10 issue immediately!
Realized this is exactly what I did yesterday when I changed my feed mechanism. Thanks for the quick solve. Much love ❤
this is exactly the problem i am having. i upgraded my cr 10 to have dual z axis stepper motors. the extruder side was doing exactly when happened to you in the video. i had thought it was the wire being possibly loose or wired wrong but i will looking into loosening those screws and trying different approaches and i hope this will resolve my issie
thank you so much! i loosen each side by a half or whole turn now now grinding sounds and both z rods move together well. thank you my friend!
*no more grinding sounds
Saved my life from a heart attack :) Thank you !
Great video, quick question, what if my issue is when the Axis won't move UP? I have the opposite issue on a CR-10S. Thanks!
Thanks for the video. I am having same issue in my cr10s4. Will check it now. Cheers
Add this issus. Thanks for the fix info!
One of my Z-axis cables had too much slack hanging below the build surface, so when the build surfaced moved along the base, it would unplug the Z-axis cable. The motor was not working at all, but the other motor would move the Z-axis up and down and make the other motor jerk around. Couldn't find this issue until I moved the bed plate. By this point I had already loosened all the bolts shown in this video, and was dumbfounded on what was happening.
Wow thanks man!! Really helped out and saved a lot of time
Love you man! Your advise was dead on! Best of luck to you!
Thank you sooo much Dude, couldn't figure out what I was doing wrong. Thank you!!!
That solved the problem! Thank you very much!
Had the same on an ender 2 and cr-10 mini. The problem is that the carriage ist not machined exact 90 degree. I used washers between nut an carriage to shim, now the z axis threaded rod runs smooth and parallel to the z axis tower.
Thumbed up and subscribed!!! Been trying everything! this worked.
Glad to hear it, thanks man!
2056/5000
Very good video
I had the same problem with the Alfawise U20 (CR10 clone) ... and I discovered that the problem was to release that brass nut so that the rod (M8 screw) had a certain play ... just like you did.
But I have one more question for you, in the video I see that the rocket you have printed, in its upper part has some undulations, which I assume were not part of the original design.
I know that these undulations are due to the small decompensation of height that exists between the ends of the X axis bar, which in turn is produced by the decompensation of forces that exist between the left side of the Z axis (where force is applied). of the stepper motor of the Z axis that pushes upwards) and the right part of the Z axis (which acts as a brake and tends to be somewhat lower, with respect to the left side), in addition to the perfect parallelism of the aluminum bars of of the two Z axes
I understand that the only way to solve it, is to leave perfectly parallel aluminum profiles to right and left that serve as columns of the Z axis. In addition to correctly adjust the eccentric nuts on the right and left side of the bearings of the Z axis.
But it is a devilishly difficult system, I have tried in many ways to adjust the pressure of the eccentric nuts (softer, stronger) of the two Z axes, and the result is always the same, I can not eliminate the undulations at all, just Diminish them, especially in the upper part.
I have seen that many people add a second Z axis (mechanically or with a second stepper motor), it is obvious that if the two ends of the X axis are pushed up, that problem should disappear.
But I would be interested to know if there is any method (step by step tutorial) that says which is the optimal way to adjust the eccentric nuts of the Z axis and completely eliminate the problem of the corrugations in the upper part, without resorting to a double kit Z axis
My question is, have you managed to solve these undulations without double Z axis? How?
Hey! Thanks for watching. I havent not figured out an answer to this problem. My guess is part of it is due to the angle of the rocket along closer to the top and how thin the walls are. To fix this issue i would focus more on designing the part to be manufactured using a 3D printer
Great video buddy have u tried updating your firmware on your S4 yet ? If so how did you and was there a video u followed ? :)
Thanks man! And i havent yet. I havent really had the need too. I got my 3d printer from Tiny Machines 3D and it came with a special firmware that they put on before shipping.
Yeah no worries At all man I’m going to be putting on the same firmware from tiny machines in a few days :)
Just got a S5 (Sainsmart Plus technically) from Amazon Warehouse at $400 off and this the issue we were having!
Glad it helped! Thanks for watching 👍🏻
Thank you so much I'm a noob and this helped so much
Awesome! Saved my day! Thanks!
super helpful thank you so much🙌🏼
thank you for the video. It solved my problem :)
Hey Farzad! Im glad it helped, thanks for stopping by the channel!!
Thanks !!!
Omg I could have wasted hours with this issue, had this not popped up as the first result. Half a turn on each screw was enough to do the trick.
I just got a S5, and out of the box a screw was floating around, one of those screws you showed to loosen. They need to be loose or the brass binds like you show. Mine also has a lock washer in between the metal flange and brass nut, I think they are using it to give it something to pivot around. I am still having z azis sync issues as the left is the only one with a limit switch for auto home. The right is on it's own and good luck? Needs another limit switch or lock the two z axis screws with a belt, like this guy did. Anybody with a fix for this?
ua-cam.com/video/-ASBhJiU8NI/v-deo.html
What are you sitting in a bucket . Lower your chin so we are not looking up your nose