3D Printed (TPU) Shock Bushings for the 4Runner
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- Опубліковано 5 вер 2024
- Testing out 3D printed TPU shock absorber bushings on the 1985 4Runner.
Original page with just the L1 hourglass bushing STL files:
www.thingivers...
cults3d.com/en...
Details on the front shock setup:
www.4crawler.c...
Initially, I had fastened the side shocks to the factory shock tower with a couple of bolts. This made for a nice, narrow setup, but it over stressed the steel of the factory shock tower and that ultimately failed. So I redesigned the mounting bracket to be separate from the factory tower. That made the setup wider and I needed to lengthen the 3/4" steel rod top mount. That made the rod too long to fit into the shocks in 1 piece, so I had to add a 1-1/2" long extension that can be removed to get that rod in and out of the shocks. I also added a pair of steel spacers, that fit between the top of the shocks, to hold them in position side to side.
I figure this is a good place to test out these 3D printed bushings as it's not a "mission critical" part. After all, I drove the truck for some time before I tracked the strange noise from the front to the missing bushings. If anyone wants to try these bushings out, please report back on your results. Now, if you need to replace the original bushings, Rancho does offer reasonably priced replacements. But if you need a modified bushing, by all means consider 3D printing a replacement. Stay tuned to an upcoming video where I'll dive into more modified bushings...
J. Stevenson was also one of the early advocates of using Toyota mini-truck rear springs up front (a.k.a. RUF) and I think I was one of the first to run RUF spring on my 4Runner:
www.4crawler.c...
One drawback of the shock setup is the number of shocks required. I picked up the 4 - RS9120 shocks on a "buy 3 get 1 free" sale at 4WPW. I think I had the original RS5010 shocks and later swapped to the RS9012 and finally the RS9012XL gas pressure shocks. But I figure the money saved on the essentially free springs went to pay for the additional shock absorbers.
Why not cut a hole in the top of the wheel well and run a taller shock tower? In my case, there's "stuff" on top of the wheel wells in the engine compartment. I have my on-board air compressor on the passenger side:
www.4crawler.c...
There's stuff on the driver's side, too, like the ignitor and coil, cruise control servo, my hot water shower valve, on-board welder controls, etc. Sure, that stuff could all be relocated, but if I keep the wheel wells intact, I can have the shocks below and all that other stuff on top.
More to come...
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And as always, thanks for watching
Man I like that shock setup. I have always wondered for YEARS why you went that route. I guess I just never read it in your build page. Time to revisit!
Hey, a voice from the past. Yes, still running this front shock setup, even the same side shocks, the center ones have been changed out a few times.
1st!!!! 🤘🏻😎🤘🏻 …….. Amazing Idea!!! Think it kould work for a sound stage. 🙂
I know this is for another video on your channel but can you please tell me why my MT50 keeps turning off and then back on?? It what's working just fine for a long time and now on this cloudy day it keeps turning on and off??
Never run into that myself, maybe try spraying some contact cleaner into the connector area and plug the cable in and out a few times. Might also be due to a low battery voltage cutoff or something like that?
Hey! I did print a few for mountain bike shock bushings and they seem to creep a bit, they get ovaled over time, is that your experience as well? 95A TPU
Thanks for the information. To date, I've not seen any signs of that in the bushings I put in nearly 2 years ago. I may need to take that upper mount apart to check more closely.
@@The4Crawler Damn, I wonder why is that happening to me... It gets ovaled and has play over time... My tpu is not very bouncy, if I 3d print a slab and bend it, it takes a while to go back into shape. I had another tpu filament that doesn't do that... Perhaps that's the main culprit