Drop delivery is not supposed to be crash delivery. All framing is only held to 1/4" tolerance. That's industry standard . You can't demand better, it's the nature of the material and trade. It's a house not a Swiss watch.
Way you use a string to check for flat is to stretch the string line right tight and fasten it both ends, then get three blocks the same size. Put one block at each end of the string line to get it up off the wall and use the third for a gage. It will hit the string line where it is high and go under where it low.
The weight of the string pulls it low at the midle. String is used for vertical straightness, but not for leveling. I think the clear tube with water is best for leveling.
Different country but as a skilled mason we would lay a Damp Proof Course down under your cill plates. Its a plastic layer with solid bitumous layer ontop and about 1/4" thick. Then a layer of mortar and bed your cill plate in leveled with your Bosch laser. Lwt it dry and then add any retaining bolts. This approach has been used here for 140+ years and works perfectly well with very very few issues. Usually people doing it wrong although its pretty simple as an approach.
Not sure what the norm is in the US but here in canada , typically the place a piece of foam runner on top of the foundation wall , this seals any low spots and and compresses on any high spots between the sill plate and the wall. Also over the distance of the wall you are concerned with you have to remember you are bolting the sill down on top , if you are bolting on a low spot you can tighten it less than one on a high keeping it level.
I've never heard of 3/16 being too much out of tolerance for wooden or timber framed building. You guys did a great job pouring your walls. You're doing great, work don't sweat the small stuff too much.
You are both “AWESOME!” I have been on active duty in the United States Navy for over 38 years and am impressed at how well you work together as a team... How you complement each others skill sets... How you understand the balance between cost/time/quality (better know as the three legged stool approach)... How you understand what you know and what you do not know (This is a rarer than you might think!)... and your willingness to exchange your time and effort for knowledge... Given enough time and energy I truly believe the two of you are capable of anything. My Wife and I really enjoy watching your videos/adventure. We have been planning on building our own home as well at some point in the future (I grew up on a farm in Tennessee... I was an Engineer in the Navy for the first 10 years of my career... I have been a Supply Officer/Contracting Officer/Contingency Operations Officer/Joint Strategic Plans Officer for the last 28 years... But we are still stationed overseas right now, so no opportunity to start on our home just yet. Love what your videos can teach others in addition to “building” a house... It can go a long way to teaching others about building a “home”... which are not always the same thing. Be good and God Bless!!! V/r Harold W. “TRACER” Valentine
Holy Crap! Where in the heck was the flatbed truck and with a knuckle boom? That was the most unprofessional delivery I have ever witnessed. THANK GOD no one was injured! My stomach was in knots watching the beams twist and drop, I could have sworn I saw something fly out during the drop. Hope there was no damage to any of the vehicles that were parked nearby. Whew! I love you videos, I swear I do and I have the highest respect for both of you, but I would have been one difficult customer when they pulled up, knowing that they were not prepared to make a professional delivery drop. Again, my hat is off to y'all! Whew!
I would have been upset if they dumped my i beams like that. All he had to do is lower the tilt bed so that the beams would rest on the tail end of the bed and then drive forward slowly and the load would have had a lower drop. Smh.
found this channel when started to watch GIRL Sells BRAND NEW CAR to START a HOMESTEAD.......got stuck here for about last five hours and very much so I like what I have seen and heard. I can relate to a lot of things you guys are going thru. No, I am not building my own home or anything but I know few things for sure.....such as proper long term planning, relentless stamina and real patience you demonstrate are so rare in this world ....To me you are doing a great job in trying to take control over your life and I wish you both to succeed.. Greetings from across the pond.........and on occasions when you may feel tired and need to stop for a second just try to listen to this Karl Jenkins Palladio :)
I'm a retired engineer. I love what you two are doing. I did the same type of project with my wife 30 years ago. I'm hooked on your channel. I would sleep a lot better knowing that your steel beam is affixed in some way to your exterior wall. I've seen it all in fabrication and would hate to see anything ugly happen. Blessings!
I saw a test on YT some time ago by a certified fire inspector/instructor on those engineered/fabricated wood joists. He ran fire tests on wood beams and the engineered "I"-beams all in controlled conditions. The "I" beams started showing fire quicker and they burned much quicker. You might consider a double layer of sheet rock as a fire wall on your garage ceiling.
totally agree, frustrating to see delivery guys without a clue when it was right there. I-joist are great as long as they stay dry and are not beat up in delivery
Just in case you guys read this, TJIs are never to be dropped for delivery, check handling instructions. The mid point of the tji was slammed on the end of the bed which will damage the connection of the bottom cord to the osb panel an cause a weakening of the diaphragm used to create the strength for long spans. check them over for damage.
Just read through some of the comments, there is good advice hiding in a lot of criticism. Glad you two have a thick skin because I sure enjoy watching the process.
Y'all are over thinking this. What I'm trying to say is it won't really matter very much. I say this because you are going to be putting a material (wood) that is not very exact in the way it is manufactured. Also wood will constantly change with temperature and humidity. So close is good enough in this case. So be happy you did a good job....
use a 3 fotr level, if it teeter toters the high spot is found, if it is level, you are good. Use sill seal to fill the gap underneath. check your stringers when you are done, if they are level you are golden. If not, a little bit of chisel action on the sill will fix it.
stickers go in between layers in a lumber pile, dunnage is what you have your sill plates sitting on. that truck driver/delivery company would definitely go on my #neveragain list. good to see your progress!
just slap your wall plate up and level it as you go no need to check the top of the wall.you could have had the plate in place already.. your being to precise ..far to precise infact
You need a water level. 100 feet of 1/4 inch clear flexible tubing with binder clips on both ends fill with water, when you open both ends the water will always become level on both ends even if it goes over or around stuff.
Your right, that unload could have ended badly. I used to haul lumber that way so i know a little about it. Normally, you see a driver have a chain around the product so it doesn't seperate during the dump. Something like those I joist really need to be done with a forklift. Consider getting a set of forks for your backhoe so you can unload stuff with less chance of damage.
You got the newbie delivery driver. So many better ways to set the joists down without dropping them. Someone needs to watch some videos about how to operate a truck bed and how not to drop stuff so hard you hear it crack. I am surprised you didn't throw a fit about that being as you are very meticulous about how your house is being built. Great to see the progress on the house, you guys are doing great. :)
I really enjoy your channel. Some unsolicited advice: You are wasting your time on trying to get everything perfect. Wood is a very imprecise material. It comes with variation from the mill and it will change dimension and cup and warp as it drys and takes on moisture. You are doing a great job. Trust in yourselves and your work.
What was that with the beams? This is how you can treat a firewood but not construction material for your house. Even moving/holding it with the backhoe like that is a bad idea, you should've tied a rope or something around that stack.
Can I suggest using the roofing ice guard rubber material in between the sill plate (wood) and cement. This would aid on keeping moisture from cement into the wood.
Thomas Skeels if the outside is boarded to below the sill plate line, how is the concrete going to get damp? Damp will not travel up the wall. Once the concrete is dry it should remain dry.
Thomas Skeels that would then make the treated sill plates an unnecessary expense. Heck paint the top of the wall with tar or another waterproofing material. At least 50% cheaper.
Rob Dunfy yes. They didn't put a membrane below the footing but unlikely the wall would wick up 10 feet in a low humidity environment. The detail of the exterior wall covering at the sill plate will be 99% solution to any moisture contacting the sill plate.
3/16th is fine! Snap your lines &I get your mud sill down. Start framing and get a roof on. Working in the heat is nothing, you don't want to be framing in 5 degree weather with snow, it makes for long shitty days
This was exactly my thought! Although perhaps there was a risk of tipping the back hoe? But a strap from the back hoe could maybe have supported it for a short time to the main flatbed of the truck (staging it down) rather than the hard drop causing the small transport straps to ping off... Well - at least no one was hurt and timber seemed relatively unskathed...
I know Jesse gets frustrated at some of the comments and criticism, but it would be great to see some dialogue from them in the comment sections. Not to have them justify or defend themselves, but to ad to the experience they're doing on here.
I was going to say "2 Men and a Truck" but more like "2 Idiots and a Truck". They were supposed to backup while lowering the bed to transitioned the board sitting on top of the truck to the tail smoothly. Are you guys going to accept those support beams as is? Hopefully they are still intact.
Firstly, I love watching your videos, but why on earth didn't someone suggest tying a rope to the back-hoe crane/bucket and then around the joists in order to let the truck drive off, then lower them slowly!? :/
You may be right. Like I said it's conjecture. My comment was really just meant to suggest that "maybe" that's why it went down like this. I'm assuming Jesse knew all the weights and the math didn't add up, so he got roped into going along with this scheme. After things fell he didn't look very happy. But I also didn't see him chewing anybody out, which is what should have happened. LOL. From my count though they had 26 beams in there, plus other lumber. I'm just guesstimating, but based on what I assume is the length/depth, I'm figuring 150lbs/beam. If I'm right, that's ~4000 lbs. Just for the beams. Way too heavy for the backhoe. Even if I'm wrong by 2x, still way too heavy for the backhoe. This is a small quibble point so not trying to be argumentative. In principle I totally agree with you. Whatever the numbers are, figure out what the hoe can handle, and do it right. Even if they are just unloading 4-6 beams at a time, smart move would be to untie them, lift a group, drive forward, lower, etc and get them all unloaded. They had the equipment to do it right. Personally though, if I'm paying for delivery, I don't care if they have to manually unload one beam at a time. That's what I paid for. It's their job to gently stack the shipment neatly on the ground for me.
Andrew, he's right, there's a big difference. One is holding up one end of a load of timber, the other is lifting an entire great big log off the ground... totally different and well within the capabilities of that machine.
COuld have just chained it to the boom, let the truck drive away and set it down gently. Oh but thats too easy. Also those guys shouldn't be delivering joints that long with a tiny truck, they need a roller trailer.
You should get or make forks for your backhoe to unload trucks since you will probably be unloading a lot of material. Cheaper then ruining building material unloading like this
Jesse appears to be a Stress Carrier/Maker, Alyssa seems to be an optimist inspite of being immersed in Jesse's doubting about everything. Sole/Sill plates will come out where they come out and like someone earlier said it is far easier to remove wood than it is concrete, you will end up shimming or removing wood to accommodate the wood anyway. I cringed when your I-Joists were off-loaded, I would thoroughly examine them prior to use.
agreed, they are wasting time , If they could see some of the tie and lentil block beams I have seen that in the end made no difference in a great build. they keep this stressing they will not enjoy this one bit.
it would cost about 10 bucks for a nylon sling for doing the unloading with a tractor .it would be useful to have a couple for use with the wood mizer also.
It may still end "badly." I really don't mean to add to the peanut gallery noise, but as an engineer, I strongly recommend that you return those joists. Those are engineered beams designed to be subjected only to static vertical loads. You shouldn't even be trying to push them around with the backhoe, very bad idea. When you do that you're creating huge amounts of horizontal pressure on small points. But that drop, OMG, peak incompetence. All those horizontal and twisting stresses, there is no telling what internal damage has been done. It may appear fine but years down the road after being subjected to structural loads then you'll truly find out whether they were damaged or not. These engineered beams are nice because they are light and cheap, but unfortunately they are also very fickle. You have to baby them until they are installed. They aren't metal beams or normal pieces of lumber. You can't toss them around like that. One little twist in the wrong direction and the internal glues and fibers of the OSB/particle boards will fracture. Externally you may not see any cracks at all. But internally they are there and over time will spread and destabilize.
Another thing too. If he does have a failure down the road, who's he going to blame? Engineer designed the structure, the beams were designed to meet those specs, etc., if properly installed and a failure happened he could go back to the firm that made the beams and hold them responsible. They didn't hold up to spec. But he's literally got a video on the internet showing the beams twisting and crashing on the ground, lol. If anything fails, all parties involved now have good evidence to evade any responsibility in terms of bad design or manufacturing.
How much did you damage that shipment? Cutting the shipping bands and off loading one piece at a time was not an option? They ended up individually stacked at the end any way. It appears the whole crew was only as smart as the dumbest member during that operation.
A word of caution on this leveling technique. A 2x4 may look perfectly straight, but if it is dry in one end and wet in the other, it's 4 inch width can vary by up to a quarter inch along the length of the board. I made that mistake more than once...
They still haven't learned the correct way to use a 50 cent length of taut string to align or level a wall. You do NOT stretch it tight directly on the surface and look for spots where it's touching. If you do that way you can only find one high spot at a time, grind it down and re-do the string test. To save time, you're supposed to put a 1 inch spacer block under each end of the taut string, and then use a third 1 inch block to go along the length and test for high and low spots. Mark them all at once, and then decided where to grind or shim.
just measure your sill plates and set in place with sill seal under your plates . faster, easier and the rolls of sill seal are cheaper than you think. then determine where your fasteners will be placed/ level every thing from that your over thinking your project
I used to work in a lumber yard driving trucks like that. No WAY I would have left the end poked out so far on one side of the bundle. Completely predictable result in offloading. I don't know what they were thinking... but they could have ruined that whole drop because of the way they loaded their own truck.
The driver should have lowered the bed so the joists were supported at the back, driven forward several feet, raised the bed to contact the joists, then driven forward while raising the bed and lowering the bed end so the joists didn't fall more than about 2 feet.
Roy Reynolds i was thinking the same thing, you would think he would have the experience to know how to of landing the lumber more gently. at the point where it looked bad, they shoulda chained to the buck and let the truck drive out and then set it down
Put a short 2×4 on each side, put your string line on both 2×4... then use another short 2×4 sliding it across the top of wall checking to see where it hits or doesn't... for high and low spots.
The real question is how in the world did they build houses before engineered sill plates and perfect laser leveled foundations. I am surprised that there are any houses still standing in this country.
Alyssa, I hope Jesse has as much appreciation for your work ethic as I do. You are always ready to help even with the big beams. You two are doing fantastic and your channel is my most looked forward to. Does that make sense? Anyway the home is starting to look like a house. Lance
Why did the timber delivery guys jack their tray so high? If they lowered it towards the end so the i-beams would slide down to the back of their tray before the final drop the i-beams would not have dropped so heavily. Agree that a strap around the 3/4 point onto the backhoe would have been a good idea. Methinks they would not like this video being public as this does not seem to be a good drop-off. Loving this channel - addicted would be an understatement.
On leveling your sill plates Use your laser level to establish a level datum point on the foundation wall all the way around the wall. measure from the datum line to find any discrepancies and shim or grind as necessary to compensate. If extreme accuracy required power planing the sill plate much easier than grinding concrete. Unfortunately water under the bridge now. You found a way and are making progress keep it up and good luck with the weather.
Al the people involved here are not professionals and have been intelligent enough to consult with professionals. After the video is published it is to late for their project. the comments I put forward are intended to assist others who may be interested in learning an alternate method for a problem shown in the video. If you have a crew chief you are in the trade and must realize that there is no build that goes 100% perfect. They are going to end up with a home that will stand the test of time and can be very proud of. The key is not in not making a mistake it is in realizing the error and correcting it.
I don't get the hat method of lumber delivery, I've seen it before on tv. Around here the truck has a piggy back fork lift to unload the lumber and put it exactly where you want it.
build yourself some forks for your backhoe bucket.Don't worry about slight difference on top of wall sill plates are probably not that accurate in thickness.Good luck on your build. snows a coming!
Best to use a long extruded aluminum hollow section to check for high spots and leveling, but to late now. Might need it later during the build. Great work. I look forward to watch your vids.
When you are all done with the house I see a Lott of rocks maybe you can build a Bar-B-Q with it. Just a thought cooking with a view of that mountain. You guys be careful and well done.
Your Lumber company should have brought out a larger truck for delivery, Quite a bit of unneeded stress put on the materials with all the sudden dropping.
The truck driver should of let the bed down until the joists were hitting the end of the bed before he drove out from under them !!! The end of that bed needs a roller on it !!!
someone show them how to run a string! you dont set the string on the thing in question... you set a string on some spacer which provides a straight reference compared to the plane in question.
I can't believe they charged you for that delivery...wow. Ive never seen floor joists delivered like that.. Jesse you're splitting hairs with the wall just fasten the sill plates down already.
You are being way to exacting on your measuring for level for your sill plates. You are going to find that as you continue to frame additional components on those plates 3/16 or 1/4 inch high or low amounts are not going to mean bupkiss. Lay down your sill plates ang go ahead with your work. Continued success to you. PS. fire that delivery driver. Aloha from Maui
as far as the way they delivered it on the short truck I'll not comment, but when material is delivered to a job site the job foreman has the say on how the material is unloaded and placed. How many job sites don't have the means to unload these beams? No backhoe, forklift, sure he had a back hoe, use it correctly. I would never have unloaded these joist beams like that. They are glued together. If this isn't a Charlie Brown job site. Worried about 3/16 th of an inch, but unloads material that holds up your underwear in public like it's fire wood, WTH Charlie Brown!
Trust level of those wooden stands for the steel beam: 0 There's no frickin way I would be inside those walls until the front of the beam was supported...
Alyssa. Are you self taught in photography and drone flying. I ask, because I think your camera work and drone work are excellent quality. Hope I am around to see the finished article. No pun intended, just getting on in years. Best of luck to yous.
when unloading your joyces and other lumber or other long materials, why not use your bucket loader? using some straps off each side of the bucket may have been easier.. just a thought. your house is looking up for sure! Hint i do not think a 3/16 of an inch veriance will hurt a thing at this point. thank you for sharing!
Way over thinking the wall leveling. You did that when you poured. Put down the sill Seal gasket and move forward. Also, delivery was totally normal. I don't like it either but they will dump osb, bolts of 2x, and anything else they can. It is normal everywhere unless they have a boom
Drop delivery is not supposed to be crash delivery.
All framing is only held to 1/4" tolerance. That's industry standard . You can't demand better, it's the nature of the material and trade. It's a house not a Swiss watch.
Way you use a string to check for flat is to stretch the string line right tight and fasten it both ends, then get three blocks the same size. Put one block at each end of the string line to get it up off the wall and use the third for a gage. It will hit the string line where it is high and go under where it low.
ray nall knows exactly what he is talking about ...and string don't lie!
used one that way for years, and add a cheap string line level and it as good as a laser level
The weight of the string pulls it low at the midle. String is used for vertical straightness, but not for leveling. I think the clear tube with water is best for leveling.
I can't believe that's how you get your timber delivered
Different country but as a skilled mason we would lay a Damp Proof Course down under your cill plates. Its a plastic layer with solid bitumous layer ontop and about 1/4" thick. Then a layer of mortar and bed your cill plate in leveled with your Bosch laser. Lwt it dry and then add any retaining bolts. This approach has been used here for 140+ years and works perfectly well with very very few issues. Usually people doing it wrong although its pretty simple as an approach.
Not sure what the norm is in the US but here in canada , typically the place a piece of foam runner on top of the foundation wall , this seals any low spots and and compresses on any high spots between the sill plate and the wall. Also over the distance of the wall you are concerned with you have to remember you are bolting the sill down on top , if you are bolting on a low spot you can tighten it less than one on a high keeping it level.
I've never heard of 3/16 being too much out of tolerance for wooden or timber framed building. You guys did a great job pouring your walls. You're doing great, work don't sweat the small stuff too much.
You are both “AWESOME!” I have been on active duty in the United States Navy for over 38 years and am impressed at how well you work together as a team... How you complement each others skill sets... How you understand the balance between cost/time/quality (better know as the three legged stool approach)... How you understand what you know and what you do not know (This is a rarer than you might think!)... and your willingness to exchange your time and effort for knowledge... Given enough time and energy I truly believe the two of you are capable of anything. My Wife and I really enjoy watching your videos/adventure. We have been planning on building our own home as well at some point in the future (I grew up on a farm in Tennessee... I was an Engineer in the Navy for the first 10 years of my career... I have been a Supply Officer/Contracting Officer/Contingency Operations Officer/Joint Strategic Plans Officer for the last 28 years... But we are still stationed overseas right now, so no opportunity to start on our home just yet. Love what your videos can teach others in addition to “building” a house... It can go a long way to teaching others about building a “home”... which are not always the same thing. Be good and God Bless!!! V/r Harold W. “TRACER” Valentine
Holy Crap! Where in the heck was the flatbed truck and with a knuckle boom? That was the most unprofessional delivery I have ever witnessed. THANK GOD no one was injured! My stomach was in knots watching the beams twist and drop, I could have sworn I saw something fly out during the drop. Hope there was no damage to any of the vehicles that were parked nearby. Whew! I love you videos, I swear I do and I have the highest respect for both of you, but I would have been one difficult customer when they pulled up, knowing that they were not prepared to make a professional delivery drop. Again, my hat is off to y'all! Whew!
I would have been upset if they dumped my i beams like that. All he had to do is lower the tilt bed so that the beams would rest on the tail end of the bed and then drive forward slowly and the load would have had a lower drop. Smh.
found this channel when started to watch GIRL Sells BRAND NEW CAR to START a HOMESTEAD.......got stuck here for about last five hours and very much so I like what I have seen and heard. I can relate to a lot of things you guys are going thru. No, I am not building my own home or anything but I know few things for sure.....such as proper long term planning, relentless stamina and real patience you demonstrate are so rare in this world ....To me you are doing a great job in trying to take control over your life and I wish you both to succeed.. Greetings from across the pond.........and on occasions when you may feel tired and need to stop for a second just try to listen to this Karl Jenkins Palladio :)
I'm a retired engineer. I love what you two are doing. I did the same type of project with my wife 30 years ago. I'm hooked on your channel. I would sleep a lot better knowing that your steel beam is affixed in some way to your exterior wall. I've seen it all in fabrication and would hate to see anything ugly happen. Blessings!
Gravity happens.
I'm not an engineer and I'd never walk under that beam right now and still think the beam is too small for that build...but what do I know.
Their engineer specified it, given some posts breaking up that span.
I saw a test on YT some time ago by a certified fire inspector/instructor on those engineered/fabricated wood joists. He ran fire tests on wood beams and the engineered "I"-beams all in controlled conditions. The "I" beams started showing fire quicker and they burned much quicker. You might consider a double layer of sheet rock as a fire wall on your garage ceiling.
They should have had the tail of the bed only inches away or touching those engineered beams when unloading. That drop was totally unnecessary.
totally agree, frustrating to see delivery guys without a clue when it was right there. I-joist are great as long as they stay dry and are not beat up in delivery
Just in case you guys read this, TJIs are never to be dropped for delivery, check handling instructions. The mid point of the tji was slammed on the end of the bed which will damage the connection of the bottom cord to the osb panel an cause a weakening of the diaphragm used to create the strength for long spans. check them over for damage.
Just read through some of the comments, there is good advice hiding in a lot of criticism. Glad you two have a thick skin because I sure enjoy watching the process.
Y'all are over thinking this. What I'm trying to say is it won't really matter very much. I say this because you are going to be putting a material (wood) that is not very exact in the way it is manufactured. Also wood will constantly change with temperature and humidity. So close is good enough in this case. So be happy you did a good job....
Being too fussy. That can be adjusted when laying the joists. It's not that critical, get to putting the plates down.
I love long/short. Bring on the fun.
Goodnight house.
Great Job you two...others who helped also.
use a 3 fotr level, if it teeter toters the high spot is found, if it is level, you are good. Use sill seal to fill the gap underneath. check your stringers when you are done, if they are level you are golden. If not, a little bit of chisel action on the sill will fix it.
stickers go in between layers in a lumber pile, dunnage is what you have your sill plates sitting on.
that truck driver/delivery company would definitely go on my #neveragain list.
good to see your progress!
just slap your wall plate up and level it as you go no need to check the top of the wall.you could have had the plate in place already.. your being to precise ..far to precise infact
You need a water level. 100 feet of 1/4 inch clear flexible tubing with binder clips on both ends fill with water, when you open both ends the water will always become level on both ends even if it goes over or around stuff.
Your right, that unload could have ended badly. I used to haul lumber that way so i know a little about it. Normally, you see a driver have a chain around the product so it doesn't seperate during the dump. Something like those I joist really need to be done with a forklift. Consider getting a set of forks for your backhoe so you can unload stuff with less chance of damage.
You got the newbie delivery driver. So many better ways to set the joists down without dropping them. Someone needs to watch some videos about how to operate a truck bed and how not to drop stuff so hard you hear it crack. I am surprised you didn't throw a fit about that being as you are very meticulous about how your house is being built. Great to see the progress on the house, you guys are doing great. :)
Love, "You have to find the balance between romantic and practical!" Great vid Alyssa!
I really enjoy your channel. Some unsolicited advice: You are wasting your time on trying to get everything perfect. Wood is a very imprecise material. It comes with variation from the mill and it will change dimension and cup and warp as it drys and takes on moisture. You are doing a great job. Trust in yourselves and your work.
if you have a high spot you can grind concrete or plain the under side of the sill plate .. you make the call
A little overkill.... The house will settle over time and things will never be perfect. But, love the attitude!!!!
What was that with the beams? This is how you can treat a firewood but not construction material for your house. Even moving/holding it with the backhoe like that is a bad idea, you should've tied a rope or something around that stack.
Can I suggest using the roofing ice guard rubber material in between the sill plate (wood) and cement. This would aid on keeping moisture from cement into the wood.
Thomas Skeels if the outside is boarded to below the sill plate line, how is the concrete going to get damp? Damp will not travel up the wall. Once the concrete is dry it should remain dry.
Thomas Skeels that would then make the treated sill plates an unnecessary expense. Heck paint the top of the wall with tar or another waterproofing material. At least 50% cheaper.
Rob Dunfy yes. They didn't put a membrane below the footing but unlikely the wall would wick up 10 feet in a low humidity environment. The detail of the exterior wall covering at the sill plate will be 99% solution to any moisture contacting the sill plate.
I agree, however, treated sills release chemicals inside the home, It was just a thought!
3/16th is fine! Snap your lines &I get your mud sill down. Start framing and get a roof on. Working in the heat is nothing, you don't want to be framing in 5 degree weather with snow, it makes for long shitty days
Why not use a strap and a backhoe to unload the joists? The joists are not engineered to take that type of stress. Check them for shearing before use.
This was exactly my thought! Although perhaps there was a risk of tipping the back hoe? But a strap from the back hoe could maybe have supported it for a short time to the main flatbed of the truck (staging it down) rather than the hard drop causing the small transport straps to ping off...
Well - at least no one was hurt and timber seemed relatively unskathed...
The more time that is spent at the start making things square and level means the less headaches later there will be to make things fit properly.
That was the worst truck delivery ever. I hope they didn't damage any of the floor joists :/
I know Jesse gets frustrated at some of the comments and criticism, but it would be great to see some dialogue from them in the comment sections. Not to have them justify or defend themselves, but to ad to the experience they're doing on here.
When I saw those I-JOIST being dropped I saw $$$$$ blowing away....Maybe you can just glue them.....Not
I was going to say "2 Men and a Truck" but more like "2 Idiots and a Truck". They were supposed to backup while lowering the bed to transitioned the board sitting on top of the truck to the tail smoothly. Are you guys going to accept those support beams as is? Hopefully they are still intact.
I would say hell no to that prefabricated GARBAGE even in intact condition.
Firstly, I love watching your videos, but why on earth didn't someone suggest tying a rope to the back-hoe crane/bucket and then around the joists in order to let the truck drive off, then lower them slowly!? :/
august yep, I'd be sending them back too!
Exactly. Easy!
You may be right. Like I said it's conjecture. My comment was really just meant to suggest that "maybe" that's why it went down like this. I'm assuming Jesse knew all the weights and the math didn't add up, so he got roped into going along with this scheme. After things fell he didn't look very happy. But I also didn't see him chewing anybody out, which is what should have happened. LOL.
From my count though they had 26 beams in there, plus other lumber. I'm just guesstimating, but based on what I assume is the length/depth, I'm figuring 150lbs/beam. If I'm right, that's ~4000 lbs. Just for the beams. Way too heavy for the backhoe. Even if I'm wrong by 2x, still way too heavy for the backhoe. This is a small quibble point so not trying to be argumentative.
In principle I totally agree with you. Whatever the numbers are, figure out what the hoe can handle, and do it right. Even if they are just unloading 4-6 beams at a time, smart move would be to untie them, lift a group, drive forward, lower, etc and get them all unloaded. They had the equipment to do it right. Personally though, if I'm paying for delivery, I don't care if they have to manually unload one beam at a time. That's what I paid for. It's their job to gently stack the shipment neatly on the ground for me.
Andrew, he's right, there's a big difference. One is holding up one end of a load of timber, the other is lifting an entire great big log off the ground... totally different and well within the capabilities of that machine.
COuld have just chained it to the boom, let the truck drive away and set it down gently. Oh but thats too easy. Also those guys shouldn't be delivering joints that long with a tiny truck, they need a roller trailer.
You should get or make forks for your backhoe to unload trucks since you will probably be unloading a lot of material. Cheaper then ruining building material unloading like this
You have been careful to have it right and your attention to detail has paid off. Nice!
Jesse appears to be a Stress Carrier/Maker, Alyssa seems to be an optimist inspite of being immersed in Jesse's doubting about everything. Sole/Sill plates will come out where they come out and like someone earlier said it is far easier to remove wood than it is concrete, you will end up shimming or removing wood to accommodate the wood anyway. I cringed when your I-Joists were off-loaded, I would thoroughly examine them prior to use.
agreed, they are wasting time , If they could see some of the tie and lentil block beams I have seen that in the end made no difference in a great build. they keep this stressing they will not enjoy this one bit.
it would cost about 10 bucks for a nylon sling for doing the unloading with a tractor .it would be useful to have a couple for use with the wood mizer also.
I was thinking the same thing, I'd toss the guy right off my job site for that kind of nonsense.
Keep up the good work you two. Looking forward to seeing the deck go on and the timber framing going up.
Its your house build it the way you want . If you want to get it to a 1/8 do it your writing the checks .
It may still end "badly." I really don't mean to add to the peanut gallery noise, but as an engineer, I strongly recommend that you return those joists. Those are engineered beams designed to be subjected only to static vertical loads. You shouldn't even be trying to push them around with the backhoe, very bad idea. When you do that you're creating huge amounts of horizontal pressure on small points.
But that drop, OMG, peak incompetence. All those horizontal and twisting stresses, there is no telling what internal damage has been done. It may appear fine but years down the road after being subjected to structural loads then you'll truly find out whether they were damaged or not.
These engineered beams are nice because they are light and cheap, but unfortunately they are also very fickle. You have to baby them until they are installed. They aren't metal beams or normal pieces of lumber. You can't toss them around like that. One little twist in the wrong direction and the internal glues and fibers of the OSB/particle boards will fracture. Externally you may not see any cracks at all. But internally they are there and over time will spread and destabilize.
Q
Another thing too. If he does have a failure down the road, who's he going to blame? Engineer designed the structure, the beams were designed to meet those specs, etc., if properly installed and a failure happened he could go back to the firm that made the beams and hold them responsible. They didn't hold up to spec. But he's literally got a video on the internet showing the beams twisting and crashing on the ground, lol. If anything fails, all parties involved now have good evidence to evade any responsibility in terms of bad design or manufacturing.
Love your videos. Really enjoy watching how you guys interact as a couple.
Get a set of forks for your front loader you will find them useful when you start timber framing .
I suppose you have never heard of a string line ? Also the handling of the timber when unloading had the potential to turn it all into matchsticks.
How much did you damage that shipment? Cutting the shipping bands and off loading one piece at a time was not an option? They ended up individually stacked at the end any way. It appears the whole crew was only as smart as the dumbest member during that operation.
Next time put a chain or straps around long material on a roll truck and use the bucket of the backhoe to support load until you lower it gently down.
A word of caution on this leveling technique. A 2x4 may look perfectly straight, but if it is dry in one end and wet in the other, it's 4 inch width can vary by up to a quarter inch along the length of the board. I made that mistake more than once...
When you place the concrete you're supposed to make sure it's level before it dries not 3 days To a week after. Just saying.
jeez man, you should have unloaded those by hand. hope those joists weren't damaged.
The lumber yard needs to see this. That driver needs to be trained on how to drop a load.
Richard West he had no problems dropping it... ;-)
They still haven't learned the correct way to use a 50 cent length of taut string to align or level a wall. You do NOT stretch it tight directly on the surface and look for spots where it's touching. If you do that way you can only find one high spot at a time, grind it down and re-do the string test. To save time, you're supposed to put a 1 inch spacer block under each end of the taut string, and then use a third 1 inch block to go along the length and test for high and low spots. Mark them all at once, and then decided where to grind or shim.
Bruce Adler- taut.
gracias
i prefer piano wire,, gootntight no sag
just measure your sill plates and set in place with sill seal under your plates . faster, easier and the rolls of sill seal are cheaper than you think. then determine where your fasteners will be placed/ level every thing from that your over thinking your project
I used to work in a lumber yard driving trucks like that. No WAY I would have left the end poked out so far on one side of the bundle. Completely predictable result in offloading. I don't know what they were thinking... but they could have ruined that whole drop because of the way they loaded their own truck.
I agree. Not correct delivery.
You should do a recap time lapse video of all the videos so far to see how far you have gone.
The driver should have lowered the bed so the joists were supported at the back, driven forward several feet, raised the bed to contact the joists, then driven forward while raising the bed and lowering the bed end so the joists didn't fall more than about 2 feet.
Roy Reynolds i was thinking the same thing, you would think he would have the experience to know how to of landing the lumber more gently. at the point where it looked bad, they shoulda chained to the buck and let the truck drive out and then set it down
Put a short 2×4 on each side, put your string line on both 2×4... then use another short 2×4 sliding it across the top of wall checking to see where it hits or doesn't... for high and low spots.
The real question is how in the world did they build houses before engineered sill plates and perfect laser leveled foundations. I am surprised that there are any houses still standing in this country.
Much less cathedrals in Europe or pyramids in South America and Egypt. Ancient alien technology confirmed!
Alyssa, I hope Jesse has as much appreciation for your work ethic as I do. You are always ready to help even with the big beams. You two are doing fantastic and your channel is my most looked forward to. Does that make sense? Anyway the home is starting to look like a house. Lance
One morning you will find the beam has fallen and bugaboo will be sitting there like it wasn't me.
Why did the timber delivery guys jack their tray so high? If they lowered it towards the end so the i-beams would slide down to the back of their tray before the final drop the i-beams would not have dropped so heavily. Agree that a strap around the 3/4 point onto the backhoe would have been a good idea. Methinks they would not like this video being public as this does not seem to be a good drop-off. Loving this channel - addicted would be an understatement.
On leveling your sill plates
Use your laser level to establish a level datum point on the foundation wall all the way around the wall. measure from the datum line to find any discrepancies and shim or grind as necessary to compensate. If extreme accuracy required power planing the sill plate much easier than grinding concrete. Unfortunately water under the bridge now. You found a way and are making progress keep it up and good luck with the weather.
You rarely grind, you find the highest and shim
Al the people involved here are not professionals and have been intelligent enough to consult with professionals. After the video is published it is to late for their project. the comments I put forward are intended to assist others who may be interested in learning an alternate method for a problem shown in the video. If you have a crew chief you are in the trade and must realize that there is no build that goes 100% perfect.
They are going to end up with a home that will stand the test of time and can be very proud of. The key is not in not making a mistake it is in realizing the error and correcting it.
Wow , only one spot out!!! You two are amazing. Hope Jessy's back is well
I don't get the hat method of lumber delivery, I've seen it before on tv. Around here the truck has a piggy back fork lift to unload the lumber and put it exactly where you want it.
Thanks for brightening my day a little with some wholesome lunchtime entertainment.
build yourself some forks for your backhoe bucket.Don't worry about slight difference on top of wall sill plates are probably not that accurate in thickness.Good luck on your build. snows a coming!
buy, dont build forks,, he is not a black smith nor certified welder
Don't worry about the high spot, just shave a little of the bottom of your sill plate in that area.
those joists wrte not designed to see that kind if lateral stress. im surprized they are not damaged.
You guys should rent some rolling scaffolding. Especially for insulating the ceiling of the basement and garage.
Also the level has two different bleeps so you can tell high or low without looking at it
Best to use a long extruded aluminum hollow section to check for high spots and leveling, but to late now. Might need it later during the build. Great work. I look forward to watch your vids.
When you are all done with the house I see a Lott of rocks maybe you can build a Bar-B-Q with it. Just a thought cooking with a view of that mountain. You guys be careful and well done.
Your Lumber company should have brought out a larger truck for delivery, Quite a bit of unneeded stress put on the materials with all the sudden dropping.
Nice work you 2 , can't wait tell the floor beams go in ...
The truck driver should of let the bed down until the joists were hitting the end of the bed before he drove out from under them !!! The end of that bed needs a roller on it !!!
Just curious why the foundation has not been backfilled yet. Seems like it would be easier to work around. Not being critical, just asking.
Hi guys why not use the the three spacer trick ? Pulled stringline tight never fails , have mentioned before
Wouldn't it be easier to machine the wood to level the sill plates?
someone show them how to run a string! you dont set the string on the thing in question... you set a string on some spacer which provides a straight reference compared to the plane in question.
I can't believe they charged you for that delivery...wow. Ive never seen floor joists delivered like that..
Jesse you're splitting hairs with the wall just fasten the sill plates down already.
grind wood not concrete, THATS why you use a silplate.
Seriously? Two minutes of that level beeping?!
If your forms for your footer were level and the top of your wall forms were level , you should be ready to start framing.
Just my opinion which I love this show, your overthinking this to much! Just lay your sill plates on top and shim if needed and fasten!
You are being way to exacting on your measuring for level for your sill plates. You are going to find that as you continue to frame additional components on those plates 3/16 or 1/4 inch high or low amounts are not going to mean bupkiss. Lay down your sill plates ang go ahead with your work. Continued success to you. PS. fire that delivery driver. Aloha from Maui
Alyssa, love it "we got the blue sound".
as far as the way they delivered it on the short truck I'll not comment, but when material is delivered to a job site the job foreman has the say on how the material is unloaded and placed. How many job sites don't have the means to unload these beams? No backhoe, forklift, sure he had a back hoe, use it correctly. I would never have unloaded these joist beams like that. They are glued together. If this isn't a Charlie Brown job site. Worried about 3/16 th of an inch, but unloads material that holds up your underwear in public like it's fire wood, WTH Charlie Brown!
Trust level of those wooden stands for the steel beam: 0
There's no frickin way I would be inside those walls until the front of the beam was supported...
I love the smell of spray paint too and gas. I have a problem
I know video is delayed, but would love to see a couple sets of rolling scaffold instead of dragging ladders around.
John Thompson spent it all on lam beams.
Alyssa. Are you self taught in photography and drone flying. I ask, because I think your camera work and drone work are excellent quality. Hope I am around to see the finished article. No pun intended, just getting on in years. Best of luck to yous.
when unloading your joyces and other lumber or other long materials, why not use your bucket loader? using some straps off each side of the bucket may have been easier.. just a thought. your house is looking up for sure! Hint i do not think a 3/16 of an inch veriance will hurt a thing at this point. thank you for sharing!
dennis brooks They don't read comments.
Great job you guys..... Hopefully your enjoying a day off in the HOT TUB on this Sunday day of rest! Still continue to be inspirational!
My Dad always said that half of the world sits on a shim and the other half is crooked.
Looked like he could have lowered bed down and got them on the rear so they didn't fall so far that could have broke a lot of them
Way over thinking the wall leveling. You did that when you poured. Put down the sill Seal gasket and move forward. Also, delivery was totally normal. I don't like it either but they will dump osb, bolts of 2x, and anything else they can. It is normal everywhere unless they have a boom