Wow, David! What a huge process boiled down to an understandable dialogue! Personally, I can't even begin to thank you for all of that effort (in the heat no less!) that you went through to make it 'simple & understandable' for a NOOB like me. I actually understood the process, what you did & the order it was completed! I'm pretty sure that subscribers & regular viewers will genuinely appreciate how much effort that really was- but, someone has to say THANK YOU! It might as well be me, cuz- I haven't been posting recently- more lurking than gratitude... That is one hell of a big battery you built (32 280AH cells- heck not only do I need to take my socks off, I need to find & pull out that high powered TI calculator I haven't used since college!) and even though you aren't happy with the wiring jorb- I'm very impressed with fusing each series cell. And, I really like the Batrium setup, at first I thought it was overkill, but- on reflection- it seems to be appropriate. Really like the drilling, threading, sizing the screws- really clean work. Very technical post but I dug it and will watch it again if I ever get even close to that size of a set up. Thank you again for whittling it down to human size!
My current BMS supplied with the battery ( black box ) connects to the pack's negative terminal and the load-negative is then conneted to the BMS. This enables the BMS to cut-off the pack if one of the following thresholds is breached 1. low voltage cut-off 2. high voltage cut-off 3. over-charge cut-off 4. over-discharge cut-off . I like that with the Batrium its possible to view the SoC of the cells via Wifi and connect to several packs but am uncertain as to how the Batrium can cut-off a pack when one of the aforementioned thresholds is breached. Thanks for the feedback.
Four vs Core, sound so similar! I'm happy to see you back in your battery shed! Those were the videos I found your channel with and enjoy the most. Looking forward to more videos on your power system upgrades. Battery teardowns are all so similar.
Thanks! I completely agree the project videos are more fun but it's just soooo hot right now, container is cramped to move/film in, and kindof running out of ideas at this point. I have a lot of ideas lined up with the switch from LCO to LFP though. I need one more bank like the EVEs (coming very soon) and can begin the switch-over.
@@LithiumSolar Awesome! I didn't know you were switching over till I watched this video. Must have missed that when watching the build of those new packs. That will be cool to see. Are they different nominal voltages and that's why you are switching or are the 1865's just not as powerful anymore? If they are the same nominal, would be really cool to see a setup with the LFP in parallel with 1865. I know the discharge curves are very different, and the 1865's would be drawn from first until the voltage dropped and the LFP started helping but would be really cool to see when that happened and how well it worked.
@@BenBrand I've hinted at it but never directly said it as I wasn't entirely sure which route my project would take. I've invested so much time and money into the current setup that it's a difficult thing to do, but I see it as a learning experience and opportunity to move on to a better (and much safer) configuration. In addition to safety, my family life has changed a lot since the start of this whole project and I no longer have time to sit here picking apart laptop batteries like I once did. It's difficult to even find time to make videos these days to be honest.
Well done. Main +/- not connected to anything, right? On the two packs with low voltage, would you be able to measure voltages on each of the four batteries to see which one is low? Or because they are in parallel, they are at same potential? Please, let us know what voltages you see there. Thanks for sharing.
Correct, main positive/negative are not connected. I need to carefully plan the switch-over from LCO to LFP. Yes, I would have to remove the parallel busbar connections on the 2 low groupings to check the cells individually. At this point, just going to charge it up, let it balance, then see where it stands. It could have even been an issue of the initial balancing process, maybe a bad connection or something. Time and testing will tell.
Very nice job, we use ferrules all the time at work, we make test stands for electronic equipment and there are thousands of connections in the stands.
Thanks for the info. Seems like you are using 32 cells in a 2p16s configuration? seems like you aren't managing each cell, correct? you are managing two in parallel, yes? if so, is this ok? would there be any issue with one in each pear drifting apart or loosing some capacity ? (perhaps I am not understanding your set up).
Thank you for the amazing video and tutorials. I was confused as to how the new product worked, after seeing how you set up K9 and how it gets daisy chained, it clicked. For your second set of 16 cells, you will only need to get the k9 and associated wires, wouldn't need to get a watchmon core.
Fluke 73 yeah ,,, you get shielded Ethernet cable (STP) btw, For the temp sensors you could crimp them into big lugs that you could put onto those terminal post with second nuts
I love that meter. I've had it over 20 years and was passed down to me from my Dad. It hasn't failed me yet! (though I did have to finally replace the leads about a year ago)
Hi there - thank you for all your content - so clear and informative. Not sure if this is the right place to ask a question but here goes! I live in Australia and have 96x 280Ah EVE LifePo4 batteries coming to build 6 16s battery banks connecting to a common 48v bus for 3 daisy chained victron inverters. I have ordered the batrium Watchmon Core and intend to use the Cellmate K9's. My question is: is it best practice to have the cells in parallel on a cell level (6p16s) or have 6 individual battery banks (16x 1p16s)? My initial instinct were to create 6 individual 48v packs and have a K9 for each. I would obviously make sure I had them all at exactly the same pack voltage before connecting them to the bus but I was pointed in the direction of paralleling them on a cell level to create 1 or 2 big packs. Gotta say that makes me slightly nervous and also feels like it would be more difficult to detect an underperforming cell etc. I'm wanting to order the flexible bus bars and need to make this decision before putting in my order! Any comments?
I thank you for your dedication and your information. I am a relative newbe and I find that the information you provide to be be very good. Your referenced and links are what I appreciate and the fact that you explain why you do things is wonderful. Please keep up the great work. I will be looking into doing a system like yours. Again thank you.
Hi Batrium, Setup a Core a relais unit and 2xK9 in december 2021. all works fine BUT.. Still have some unanswered questions I mailed you last time in januari... Busy now with aquiring two projects where your system might come handy but still have some questions left: a) do you fully support Victron inverters and will Victron work with your bms too (there seems to be a difference L.O.L.)? I heard about some issues on the Victron forum about communication with a multiplus that didn't work out well. b) will the maximum bleed current be higher than 0,74Amps when placing a 6x6 fan? I mounted one but see no results here whilst the K9 should (in future?) be able to handle 25Watts?? c) is there a possibility to connect ethernet over an USB to ethernet dongle with your core? Wifi is a mess at the upcoming projects so this would help a lot. The rapported glitches in the graphs every now and then don't seem to have any influence of the function of your bms so you may keep this out of your answers on my questions I sent you in januari 20th. Keep up the good works there and stay healthy!
Hi there. I don't work for Batrium so I'm not the best person to answer your questions. Please forward these questions to their product support email info@batrium.com and I'm sure they'll be able to help get some answers.
It's a 16s2p yes. Using 32 cells in series would give 102Vdc. Not only is that voltage dangerous to work with, there is very little equipment available to general consumers at that voltage. 48V fairly standard.
Yes, I could have used a second nut too. The challenging part there though is can't tighten it down much without worry of also tightening the nut below it, which has to be at a very specific torque to avoid stripping out the aluminum threads in the cell. Yes, can be done, but just feel the tap approach was better.
I'm not sure honesty. Development has been very slow it seems, but at the same time, am not sure what else to look at that has the same feature set around the same price.
In have a similar setup with 580ah 16s. I went with diybms. This does look like a great product. Either way I will be recommending this to friends who are less capable with SMD soldering.
Hi David! I just built something similar to you, thanks to your video! But I don't get the clue about how to set up the correct SOC value in the Batrium in order to be communicated to the inverter. Could you please tell me how you do that? The voltage is not giving so much clue, because we have a big SOC range in a small voltage range. Hope you can help me with this, thanks and congrats for your work!
what a good job you did on showing the setup wow! would like to ask why the two battery's parallel then S why not 2 16s strings? while nice the fuses on the wire is nice but the wire would act as a fuse at these AMP levels LOL. i really liked the the look of your installation.
I don't really see any advantage to having two 16s1p instead of one 16s2p like I built here. There are a pile of disadvantages though - higher cost of BMS (would need two K9), more cabling, more fuses, more worry about balancing (32 cells instead of 16), etc? Also - no, the wire used does not act as a fuse. Under a fault, it's much more likely to melt the insulation and form a giant firey mess of melted goop. Hence the fuses... ;)
@@LithiumSolar if you have one K9 it's normally used for 16 Cells individually, I assume. Your Setup is to hooked up to 32 Cell to one K9 lead to 2 Cells. Your Readings will be based on 2 Cells. Scenario, if there's an issue with one lead of Cells. How would you solve it?
@@Stephen-dg9de The cells are in groups of 2, yes. The group of 2 cells acts as one battery. They're always at the same SOC and will (hopefully) age together as one battery. If you notice one grouping start to fail, process would be the same as if it was a 16s1p. Disassemble, test the individual cell(s), and rebuild as needed.
@@Stephen-dg9de These are all brand new, matched cells though. In theory, the entire battery should age as a whole. Eventually it will reach a point where one cell in particular fails first - hopefully 10+ years from now when there is much better and/or cheaper technology available. At that point, I wouldn't be repairing, I'd be replacing the entire battery.
Thank you for our great video. It really helps a lot. But one question I have. Do you really think, it helps to bring the fuses next to the cells? I don't think so. The current is the same in the whole wire and if there is a fuse it melts at the same time no metter where it is positioned. Or am I wrong here or are there any special topics beside of that to keep an eye on?
Yes, the fuses need to be as close to the batteries as practical. You are correct in that the current is the same throughout the circuit; however, the portion of wire between the battery and fuse is unprotected should it be cut, damaged, pinched, shorted, etc. The further your fuses are from the battery, the more unprotected wire you have in your circuit.
You do a great job making your videos and as I become more knowledgeable. I will look back on some of your videos like this one later on just to see how informative they are after I have a better understanding regarding what you are alluding to. This type of BMS is so far above my present learning curve, although I find it very intriguing, at present I will stay with simple ones like DALY.
Great Video!! Starting my own similar set-up (4p-16s), just ordered the WatchMon Core and 16 BlockMon M8's. I noticed you put your cell monitoring connections on the SERIES connections? It was my understanding that the cell monitors usually go on the PARALLEL connections? Can you explain why you did this, whats the difference or am I missing something? Keep up the informative vids!!!
One balance wire goes to each series connection where the voltage increases between cells. I have a 16s2p battery here. That means there 16 parallel groupings of 2 cells, with each group wired in series. Technically the busbars serve both the series and parallel connections in this configuration, so perhaps that's where the confusion is? :) There is a graphic at 6:19 that may explain this better.
@@LithiumSolar I believe that was why, overlooked that. I guess my wiring will be completely different anyway seeing how I'm using BlockMon M8s. Do you know yet how many AH of active balancing the K9 provides? Batrium said they didn't know yet when I ordered, so I went with the Blockmon M8. They offer 28ah per day, so I went with a known quantity verses a new (K9) product. Please update as you learn more!! Enjoyed a lot of your videos.
I am still a little confused,there are 2 diagrams one on 6.01 another on 6.19.,one 16 batteries the other 32 batteries I see there are 2 negative battery and 2 positive battery poles(6.01)connected with 3? busbars and i am not sure if the fuse connections are connected to the last busbars,between the positive poles only… Can someone clear this,maybe simple but I don’t see it 😊
the torque value is somewhat complicated. depending on temperature and SOC this changes. but any compression is better than none. just use your common sense.
Dumb Question? Aren't All The Balance Leads Supposed To Be The Same Length = (Same Resistance) Between BMS & Connecting Points On Each Cells? I Heard This Could Cause A Slight Difference In Balancing Of All Cells Readings?? Thanks
063021/1352h PST. I reached 50% of this presentation and I had to comment at this part of the segment, before I forget. Thank you. Fantastic, very intelligently composed design. Especially the separate balance lead, and tapped screw designation. Appreciate that design, quite intelligent and logical. The DYMO shrink labeling to identify the cables on top side and the bottom end. There are 2 items that I’m, still, foggy. 1) The strange BMS , that is. If you could prepare an elaborate description on those BMS’s, the salient features, that makes this, particular BMS outstanding than the normal BMS viz: JBD/DALY/QUCC? Or perhaps a comparison? 2) Compressing the cells. Does the compression procedure make the battery last longer? Say 2 years, 3 years or 4 ? Is it worth the effort for an additional couple of years longevity for the Battery? Thanks again for your endeavor, that’s always appreciated. Take care and be safe. Heartfelt condolences and prayers, to the losses at the building collapse.
Nice work! I have also a 16s2p setup with 280ah cells. Though with a watchmon 4. I have the impression, that top balancing is somewhat difficult in a 2p configuration. Perhaps because the voltage difference is not enough? Would be interested in a video, when you top balance them, and the settings you use. Anyone with similar issues?
I was interested to see you using an inline fuse for every battery sense wire for the Batrium controller. If I did that I would check the end to end resistance of each one, to make sure that my controller was not receiving any artificially low readings due to a poor connection through a fuse - there is only that little spring pressing the connections to the fuse in the fuse body, so there is a chance (x16) of some dirt or other problem. Just a thought.
In theory, yes, but I would definitely not do that. You would have to run two sets of balance leads and even then, not sure if the two BMS would interfere with one another or not.
what would it take to use these in an electric car . i have the low speed wheego whip 96 volts .uses 250 amps at cruise speed and up tp 500 amps when climbing a hill . i have converted it to 5 speed trans for speed up to 70 miles mph , currently runs on 16 6 volt lead acid batteries . this would be a large investment for me . looking for advice from as many people as possible. currently have a range of 35 to 50 miles depending on hills or not . batteries weight is 1000 lbs
great but I have decided to not go for the batrium system at all but for the diy bms cause it is a lot cheaper and has been developed further for quite a long time and huge community that it can be called a reliable bms solution.
I was wondering if a rivet would work for the balance wire instead of tapping a screw thread? A screw is better I suppose for servicing, I've just never really tapped much before.
I don't think there's any guarantee the rivet would be tight enough or remain tight enough. This project was the first time I've ever used a screw tap. You wouldn't want to see the busbar piece I tested/learned on... LOL
I had a look at a discussion about using rivets in UK electronic installations, apparently there isn't clear guidance but they are considered a risk because you cannot undo it for testing and maintenance. Also being soft aluminium they aren't considered mechanically stable, and when used with copper they would have issues with dissimilar metals.
The purpose of the fuse is to stop current flow when it becomes excessive. It doesn't matter where alone the length of the wire of the fuse is located the current flow is the same.
Yes, it does matter! If you put the fuse 10 feet away from your battery, then you have 10 feet of cable that's susceptible to damage and if that cable were ever damaged or cut in that 10 feet, a short would occur with no safety in place. By putting the fuse as close to the battery as possible, you're lessening the chance of an accident. Sure - it technically works anywhere.
@@LithiumSolar oh, I see what you mean. Not electrically important, but you're assuming something punctures the wire insulation. That's extremely rare. I was thinking in terms of equipment failure, say the inverter has a MOSFET short and shorts the battery input. Then your cables are going to see high current. In that case, it doesn't matter where the fuse is. Sure, putting the fuse closer to the battery makes sense if you have the cables run through metal chassis with sharp edges that could cut through insulation.
Hi can I ask you a few questions about the batrium watchmon core and the cell mate k9 bms unit. What are you using to disconnect the charge and discharge cycle from the inverter to your batteries incase the inverter doesn't shut off correctly. I know the negative lead from the battery to the inverter does not pass thru the bms like the common bms does. I have a 12KW low freq. inverter with 6.2 kw of solar panels feeding the inverter. I have 32 new Eve 304 ah cells on the way from Amy at Shenzhen Luyuan Technology in china. According to Batrium the Watchmon core will not communicate with my Growatt inverter to be able to control it. But did say they were working on trying to get it to communicate with the Growatt inverters. I have thought about using a 48V 10,000 watt 440 amp rated Continuous Duty Relay / Solenoid Switch to connect between the battery and the inverter on the negative cable and let the batrium control it if something should go wrong with the inverter. The solenoid can be wired normally open or normally closed. Do you think this will work ok or what would you suggest to be the best way to use the batrium set up
I use the "critical" state of the Batrium to flip an ABB S5N circuit breaker. The breaker trip is a 24V coil. I haven't actually connected it yet, but I used it prior with my old Watchmon 4. Obviously though this is a manual reset method and only intended to be used when the Batrium sees a fault that I consider critical, such as a cell over-volted, under-volted, over temp, etc. A relay/solenoid designed for the purpose would probably work as well, but it tends to be difficult/expensive to find a relay/solenoid rated for DC high current.
@@LithiumSolar The solenoid I listed above is for a 48 volt golf cart that is supposed to be rated for 440 amps which my system should never see and yes it would only be used for a critical event , so if I let it pass thru the solenoid in the normally closed position it should not draw very much if any currant from my system unless a critical event happens. I will look into the ABB S5N circuit breaker also.
How does this bms work? I'm confused on how it works without the main power wire running to it. I looked at their website and it doesn't mention any charge or discharge rate. Thanks for any help and information you can provide
The BMS is designed to communicate with your equipment. It's a computer that will tell your inverter or charger when to shut off. If your equipment is like mine and does not support this, you can use relays, contactor, etc.
@@LithiumSolar Batrium allows to use one CellMate-K9 for every 16s-block, so you just need to use another CellMate-K9 to connect every of your 32 cells to have every cell balanced. If you take a look at the batrium-website, there's a picture with a WatchMon Core and two CellMate-K9 connected for a 16s-battery with 2 blocks. Source: www.batrium.com/collections/kits/products/watchmon-core-k9
@@RipsDiner In my setup, the 32 batteries are wired in groups of 2, so instead of having two 16s at 280Ah each, I have one big battery that's 16s at 560Ah. If you wired them in two separate 16s banks, you would need two BMS (two K9's, one watchmon core).
@@LithiumSolar , the problem of your setup is, that those 16 pairs get unbalanced during the next months. Is it worth to save ~150$ for another CellMate-K9?
What is the advantage of 2 p16 s vs 2 16s except not to buy a second k9 or is there none? Is there some unbalance to see or what are the pro and cons after this longer period Thanks
I have a question. I realize this watchmon is a cell monitor. Do you still have the part of a BMS inline with the battery to turn current off if there is an over or under voltage condition?
The BMS will communicate directly with the inverter and chargers to shut them down. Additionally, I'll have a large ABB circuit breaker that can be tripped remotely during a critical fault. This is not a FET-based controller, it's better!
@@LithiumSolar I see...I do like the idea of driving a relay to turn off power or signaling charger to stop charging. I never liked the idea of FETS turning things off as they are subject to failure. Thanks.
If any one of the leads is damaged, cut, nicked, the BMS fails, or otherwise causes a short circuit somewhere along the path - you want a fuse that will blow rather than having the wires turn in to a melted mess and catching fire.
Thanks for the instruction. I'm connecting my BMS using your buss bar method too. I checked for support of the Batrium BMS software on Linux - not supported. Pity, I am running my system on a Raspberry Pi.
Yeah, no linux unfortunately. You only need Windows to configure it though. You can pull data from it using Linux. I run a CentOS VM to manage that, though an RPI would work great as well!
@@LithiumSolar thanks for replying. Yeah, I wonder why manufacturers insist on developing their own software exclusively rather than publishing a full API (not a knobbled version) and letting the user community develop the software for them in addition to what they develop. Everyone wins, but this "mine, mine, mine" mentality makes us all losers. I won't consider batrium for this one reason...I want flexibility not restrictions for my hardware.
@@ursodermatt8809 Au contraire Urs, there are several open BMS available and Open means complete freedom and choice. For example Check out Stuart Pittaway's openBMS. I don't want Batrium's intellectual property, I just want to use their products without restrictions on operating systems and other restrictions they impose and that means they provide a concise API. Nothing else need to change. They could do that very easily (they probably already have the API specifications for internal use), so they have spent the money building it but aren't selling it.
@@MiniLuv-1984 first of all i do not see your problem. with the batrium you only need windows to program the balancing etc. then you can forget about it and go back to do your linux thing. and keep in mind, your linux people are a very tiny community.
that's a sensor, which should be direct contact, inserting a mechanical fuse could cause a weaker connections. there are no kind load on these balance leads, usually high impendence terminals only to sense voltage, probably mosfet inputs sense these fuse are useless
@@LithiumSolar so hw small fuse value do you plan for it to secure your cut or break, when the sense line is almost infinity? hopefully it does not create and any mechanical voltage drop. good luck
I have batrium , with 3 k9's , 48 cells. Ive a wire dropping voltage now and then , can see it on the daily session min cell voltage. But how can know wire is dropping voltage, maybe bad bad connection. How can I data log the sistem? Can you help me?
I've had something similar happening and I'm certain it's not a wiring issue. I've reported this to Batrium and am told they're working on a new firmware update which may change how voltages are being read, though I haven't received it for testing yet.
i live in japan, then what can i do , if i want order batrium products? i want to build your battery pack in the future. also, i want to know your whole solar system, such as solar panels, controller, inverter, how to connect each other...thanks, very informed!!!
Thanks for the Video. I'm new to battery BMSs and am considering building 6 sets of 280 Ah 51.2 battery banks using the Batrium BMSs. One thing I didn't get is how the BMS will stop the charging when the batteries are full, is there something that will disconnect or make the charger stop? Any help is appreciated
@@garbi8526 I have just finished my installation. In my case, I have connected the Watchmon5 to the Victron Cerbo gx using the CANBUS. The nice thing about the Batrium is that you can configure every aspect of the ramping up and charging of the batteries. When the batteries are full, the charging ramps down nicely. Without the CANBUS I would not use Batrium at all.
Both the batteries and the BMS have been running great. Since this video though, I have switched out the solid busbars for a flexible design. See this video for details on that if interested ua-cam.com/video/EHqXgcrtOkc/v-deo.html
This is DIY, obviously not UL approved. And no, it's not FDA approved either. You should never eat or ingest batteries.........? I'll assume that part is a joke.
@@LithiumSolar The whole post was a joke, but its cool you reply. You'd give a housing inspector a brain aneurism trying to document everything he sees there, but I like it, sorta mad scientist/steampunk vibe.
While the batrium stuff looks really cool, I can't see putting it into a diy system unless high enough capacity per 16s, it can get cost prohibitive very quickly.
@@LithiumSolar I understand, I was just comparing cost per 16s per kwh. The ratio of cell cost to bms cost skews badly when you get down to the 100ah range, unless you start building the packs in parallel and using 1 lead for 2-3 batteries. I'm guessing most bms will have trouble balancing the higher the cell AH gets
@@LithiumSolar seems like this Matchmon+k9 does not have current shut down functionality? (I am new to battery bank construction so perhaps I am misunderstanding the full roles of BMS in the systems.. I have seem some BMS that connect/manage some big switch--which I interpret as some safety shut off)
You are right. Even if the access point (wlan router) is in the same room, the data is sometimes slow to arrive. But the bms is still doing it's job. It's just the human eye in front of the screen, who suffers 😏
Featured Products: (affiliate links)
Batrium Watchmon+K9 Kit... www.batrium.com/discount/BATTERY?redirect=/products/watchmon-core-k9
EVE 280Ah… www.18650batterystore.com/products/eve-lf280k/?rfsn=7256878.31271b9 (US Distributor)
Anyone want to see a complete charge, balance, and capacity test of the EVE bank?! Getting EXCITED! :D
Id be interested to see that!
Me too
I would be interested
I sell battery packs with good quality CATL cells. Also have a PROPER BMS!
Wow, David! What a huge process boiled down to an understandable dialogue! Personally, I can't even begin to thank you for all of that effort (in the heat no less!) that you went through to make it 'simple & understandable' for a NOOB like me. I actually understood the process, what you did & the order it was completed!
I'm pretty sure that subscribers & regular viewers will genuinely appreciate how much effort that really was- but, someone has to say THANK YOU! It might as well be me, cuz- I haven't been posting recently- more lurking than gratitude...
That is one hell of a big battery you built (32 280AH cells- heck not only do I need to take my socks off, I need to find & pull out that high powered TI calculator I haven't used since college!) and even though you aren't happy with the wiring jorb- I'm very impressed with fusing each series cell. And, I really like the Batrium setup, at first I thought it was overkill, but- on reflection- it seems to be appropriate. Really like the drilling, threading, sizing the screws- really clean work.
Very technical post but I dug it and will watch it again if I ever get even close to that size of a set up. Thank you again for whittling it down to human size!
You do such a good job, I'm slowly getting up the confidence to try some of these projects.
Looks like a solid install! Love the new Batrium Kit!!!🤘
Thanks! :D
So cool to see it finally come together! Congrats!
Great video, loved the install and run down, can't wait for the fan & shunt video..
My current BMS supplied with the battery ( black box ) connects to the pack's negative terminal and the load-negative is then conneted to the BMS. This enables the BMS to cut-off the pack if one of the following thresholds is breached 1. low voltage cut-off 2. high voltage cut-off 3. over-charge cut-off 4. over-discharge cut-off . I like that with the Batrium its possible to view the SoC of the cells via Wifi and connect to several packs but am uncertain as to how the Batrium can cut-off a pack when one of the aforementioned thresholds is breached. Thanks for the feedback.
Awesome detail. Congrats and thanks for including us! I know nothing about the Batrium BMS, but now I want to.
Four vs Core, sound so similar! I'm happy to see you back in your battery shed! Those were the videos I found your channel with and enjoy the most. Looking forward to more videos on your power system upgrades. Battery teardowns are all so similar.
Thanks! I completely agree the project videos are more fun but it's just soooo hot right now, container is cramped to move/film in, and kindof running out of ideas at this point. I have a lot of ideas lined up with the switch from LCO to LFP though. I need one more bank like the EVEs (coming very soon) and can begin the switch-over.
@@LithiumSolar Awesome! I didn't know you were switching over till I watched this video. Must have missed that when watching the build of those new packs. That will be cool to see. Are they different nominal voltages and that's why you are switching or are the 1865's just not as powerful anymore? If they are the same nominal, would be really cool to see a setup with the LFP in parallel with 1865. I know the discharge curves are very different, and the 1865's would be drawn from first until the voltage dropped and the LFP started helping but would be really cool to see when that happened and how well it worked.
@@BenBrand I've hinted at it but never directly said it as I wasn't entirely sure which route my project would take. I've invested so much time and money into the current setup that it's a difficult thing to do, but I see it as a learning experience and opportunity to move on to a better (and much safer) configuration. In addition to safety, my family life has changed a lot since the start of this whole project and I no longer have time to sit here picking apart laptop batteries like I once did. It's difficult to even find time to make videos these days to be honest.
Thank you for such as detailed / complete intro to Core / K9.
Hi
Thanks for your videos. Much appreciated.
Are blockmons or longmons not required with this build?
Do you still recommend batrium?
I bought the same ferrule kit, it's a game changer.
Ferrule
thank you
Well done. Main +/- not connected to anything, right? On the two packs with low voltage, would you be able to measure voltages on each of the four batteries to see which one is low? Or because they are in parallel, they are at same potential? Please, let us know what voltages you see there. Thanks for sharing.
Correct, main positive/negative are not connected. I need to carefully plan the switch-over from LCO to LFP. Yes, I would have to remove the parallel busbar connections on the 2 low groupings to check the cells individually. At this point, just going to charge it up, let it balance, then see where it stands. It could have even been an issue of the initial balancing process, maybe a bad connection or something. Time and testing will tell.
great video! As I understand this BMS (monitor) controlling charge/discharge using relays, is it correct?
Very nice job, we use ferrules all the time at work, we make test stands for electronic equipment and there are thousands of connections in the stands.
Thanks for the info. Seems like you are using 32 cells in a 2p16s configuration? seems like you aren't managing each cell, correct? you are managing two in parallel, yes? if so, is this ok? would there be any issue with one in each pear drifting apart or loosing some capacity ? (perhaps I am not understanding your set up).
Thank you for the amazing video and tutorials. I was confused as to how the new product worked, after seeing how you set up K9 and how it gets daisy chained, it clicked. For your second set of 16 cells, you will only need to get the k9 and associated wires, wouldn't need to get a watchmon core.
Fluke 73 yeah ,,, you get shielded Ethernet cable (STP) btw, For the temp sensors you could crimp them into big lugs that you could put onto those terminal post with second nuts
I love that meter. I've had it over 20 years and was passed down to me from my Dad. It hasn't failed me yet! (though I did have to finally replace the leads about a year ago)
Thanks for the detailed, step-by-step explanation. Well done.
Hi there - thank you for all your content - so clear and informative. Not sure if this is the right place to ask a question but here goes! I live in Australia and have 96x 280Ah EVE LifePo4 batteries coming to build 6 16s battery banks connecting to a common 48v bus for 3 daisy chained victron inverters. I have ordered the batrium Watchmon Core and intend to use the Cellmate K9's.
My question is: is it best practice to have the cells in parallel on a cell level (6p16s) or have 6 individual battery banks (16x 1p16s)?
My initial instinct were to create 6 individual 48v packs and have a K9 for each. I would obviously make sure I had them all at exactly the same pack voltage before connecting them to the bus but I was pointed in the direction of paralleling them on a cell level to create 1 or 2 big packs. Gotta say that makes me slightly nervous and also feels like it would be more difficult to detect an underperforming cell etc.
I'm wanting to order the flexible bus bars and need to make this decision before putting in my order!
Any comments?
I thank you for your dedication and your information. I am a relative newbe and I find that the information you provide to be be very good. Your referenced and links are what I appreciate and the fact that you explain why you do things is wonderful. Please keep up the great work. I will be looking into doing a system like yours. Again thank you.
Hi Batrium,
Setup a Core a relais unit and 2xK9 in december 2021. all works fine BUT..
Still have some unanswered questions I mailed you last time in januari...
Busy now with aquiring two projects where your system might come handy but still have some questions left:
a) do you fully support Victron inverters and will Victron work with your bms too (there seems to be a difference L.O.L.)?
I heard about some issues on the Victron forum about communication with a multiplus that didn't work out well.
b) will the maximum bleed current be higher than 0,74Amps when placing a 6x6 fan? I mounted one but see no results here whilst the K9 should (in future?) be able to handle 25Watts??
c) is there a possibility to connect ethernet over an USB to ethernet dongle with your core? Wifi is a mess at the upcoming projects so this would help a lot.
The rapported glitches in the graphs every now and then don't seem to have any influence of the function of your bms so you may keep this out of your answers on my questions I sent you in januari 20th.
Keep up the good works there and stay healthy!
Hi there. I don't work for Batrium so I'm not the best person to answer your questions. Please forward these questions to their product support email info@batrium.com and I'm sure they'll be able to help get some answers.
@@LithiumSolar my bad, was triggered by the batrium sign. I did try to contact them but they don't respond to customers that pay their fees anymore...
1- thanks 2-did those two batteries that initially were less charged, finally charged equal to others?
This is a 2P 16S correct? I'm curious to why you didn't have 2 K9 so you will have 32S?
It's a 16s2p yes. Using 32 cells in series would give 102Vdc. Not only is that voltage dangerous to work with, there is very little equipment available to general consumers at that voltage. 48V fairly standard.
@@LithiumSolar I think I need to rephrase my question. I curious to why you have 2 K9 instead of using one K9?
To support the voiceless, I can no longer use the like button ✅ (no more visual dislikes) . So here is a written like.
Beautiful product. Really nice that FAIL and PASS both has 4 letters too. lol
Hello. Must the balancing wires be the same length for 16s?
No, they do not need to be the same length.
mmm good idea to drill a hole in the busbar. Can’t you use a second nut on the battery terminal fore the balance conection?
he explained it
Yes, I could have used a second nut too. The challenging part there though is can't tighten it down much without worry of also tightening the nut below it, which has to be at a very specific torque to avoid stripping out the aluminum threads in the cell. Yes, can be done, but just feel the tap approach was better.
@@LithiumSolar
and tapping is quite easy to do. particularly into copper.
I need to find a bms I can monitor better. Would you still go with batrium at this point? I need enough for 14 16s packs
I'm not sure honesty. Development has been very slow it seems, but at the same time, am not sure what else to look at that has the same feature set around the same price.
In have a similar setup with 580ah 16s. I went with diybms. This does look like a great product. Either way I will be recommending this to friends who are less capable with SMD soldering.
Hi David! I just built something similar to you, thanks to your video! But I don't get the clue about how to set up the correct SOC value in the Batrium in order to be communicated to the inverter. Could you please tell me how you do that? The voltage is not giving so much clue, because we have a big SOC range in a small voltage range. Hope you can help me with this, thanks and congrats for your work!
Great build! It will serve you well for a long time.
Looking good. Personally I would you thermal glue to hold the temperature sensors in place. Or zipties
Funny, I hadn't even considered zipties even though I use them everywhere else lol... I may have to go redo it now, thanks for the idea!
what a good job you did on showing the setup wow! would like to ask why the two battery's parallel then S why not 2 16s strings? while nice the fuses on the wire is nice but the wire would act as a fuse at these AMP levels LOL. i really liked the the look of your installation.
I'm also curious to why 1, 16S and not 2, 16S???
I don't really see any advantage to having two 16s1p instead of one 16s2p like I built here. There are a pile of disadvantages though - higher cost of BMS (would need two K9), more cabling, more fuses, more worry about balancing (32 cells instead of 16), etc? Also - no, the wire used does not act as a fuse. Under a fault, it's much more likely to melt the insulation and form a giant firey mess of melted goop. Hence the fuses... ;)
@@LithiumSolar if you have one K9 it's normally used for 16 Cells individually, I assume. Your Setup is to hooked up to 32 Cell to one K9 lead to 2 Cells.
Your Readings will be based on 2 Cells.
Scenario, if there's an issue with one lead of Cells. How would you solve it?
@@Stephen-dg9de The cells are in groups of 2, yes. The group of 2 cells acts as one battery. They're always at the same SOC and will (hopefully) age together as one battery. If you notice one grouping start to fail, process would be the same as if it was a 16s1p. Disassemble, test the individual cell(s), and rebuild as needed.
@@Stephen-dg9de These are all brand new, matched cells though. In theory, the entire battery should age as a whole. Eventually it will reach a point where one cell in particular fails first - hopefully 10+ years from now when there is much better and/or cheaper technology available. At that point, I wouldn't be repairing, I'd be replacing the entire battery.
I love these breakdowns!
what a comprehensive educational Video. Very Nice!!!
Thank you for our great video. It really helps a lot. But one question I have. Do you really think, it helps to bring the fuses next to the cells? I don't think so. The current is the same in the whole wire and if there is a fuse it melts at the same time no metter where it is positioned. Or am I wrong here or are there any special topics beside of that to keep an eye on?
Yes, the fuses need to be as close to the batteries as practical. You are correct in that the current is the same throughout the circuit; however, the portion of wire between the battery and fuse is unprotected should it be cut, damaged, pinched, shorted, etc. The further your fuses are from the battery, the more unprotected wire you have in your circuit.
@@LithiumSolar Ah ok, That topic I did not think about - I build my batterys including the cellmate itself in a closed / protected box. Thank you
What are your opinions on building your own battery versus getting a server battery? Thanks!
You do a great job making your videos and as I become more knowledgeable. I will look back on some of your videos like this one later on just to see how informative they are after I have a better understanding regarding what you are alluding to. This type of BMS is so far above my present learning curve, although I find it very intriguing, at present I will stay with simple ones like DALY.
Great Video!! Starting my own similar set-up (4p-16s), just ordered the WatchMon Core and 16 BlockMon M8's. I noticed you put your cell monitoring connections on the SERIES connections? It was my understanding that the cell monitors usually go on the PARALLEL connections? Can you explain why you did this, whats the difference or am I missing something? Keep up the informative vids!!!
One balance wire goes to each series connection where the voltage increases between cells. I have a 16s2p battery here. That means there 16 parallel groupings of 2 cells, with each group wired in series. Technically the busbars serve both the series and parallel connections in this configuration, so perhaps that's where the confusion is? :) There is a graphic at 6:19 that may explain this better.
@@LithiumSolar I believe that was why, overlooked that. I guess my wiring will be completely different anyway seeing how I'm using BlockMon M8s. Do you know yet how many AH of active balancing the K9 provides? Batrium said they didn't know yet when I ordered, so I went with the Blockmon M8. They offer 28ah per day, so I went with a known quantity verses a new (K9) product.
Please update as you learn more!! Enjoyed a lot of your videos.
I am using the blockmon as well but my system is in a 4p-4s configuration. I intend to have a blockmon on each cell.
I am still a little confused,there are 2 diagrams one on 6.01 another on 6.19.,one 16 batteries the other 32 batteries
I see there are 2 negative battery and 2 positive battery poles(6.01)connected with 3? busbars and i am not sure if the fuse connections are connected to the last busbars,between the positive poles only…
Can someone clear this,maybe simple but I don’t see it 😊
Thanks for a very informative video. Regarding the “soft” compression of the 280’s , do you have a torque value you can share? Cheers kevin
the torque value is somewhat complicated. depending on temperature and SOC this changes. but any compression is better than none. just use your common sense.
Dumb Question? Aren't All The Balance Leads Supposed To Be The Same Length = (Same Resistance) Between BMS & Connecting Points On Each Cells? I Heard This Could Cause A Slight Difference In Balancing Of All Cells Readings?? Thanks
063021/1352h PST. I reached 50% of this presentation and I had to comment at this part of the segment, before I forget. Thank you. Fantastic, very intelligently composed design. Especially the separate balance lead, and tapped screw designation. Appreciate that design, quite intelligent and logical. The DYMO shrink labeling to identify the cables on top side and the bottom end.
There are 2 items that I’m, still, foggy.
1) The strange BMS , that is. If you could prepare an elaborate description on those BMS’s, the salient features, that makes this, particular BMS outstanding than the normal BMS viz: JBD/DALY/QUCC? Or perhaps a comparison?
2) Compressing the cells. Does the compression procedure make the battery last longer? Say 2 years, 3 years or 4 ? Is it worth the effort for an additional couple of years longevity for the Battery?
Thanks again for your endeavor, that’s always appreciated. Take care and be safe.
Heartfelt condolences and prayers, to the losses at the building collapse.
Nice work! I have also a 16s2p setup with 280ah cells. Though with a watchmon 4. I have the impression, that top balancing is somewhat difficult in a 2p configuration. Perhaps because the voltage difference is not enough? Would be interested in a video, when you top balance them, and the settings you use. Anyone with similar issues?
I was interested to see you using an inline fuse for every battery sense wire for the Batrium controller. If I did that I would check the end to end resistance of each one, to make sure that my controller was not receiving any artificially low readings due to a poor connection through a fuse - there is only that little spring pressing the connections to the fuse in the fuse body, so there is a chance (x16) of some dirt or other problem. Just a thought.
yes, i agree the fuse holder might create problems. not so much dirt but corrosion.
If i use a secound k9, do i have double bms power to balance? How is the wireing ?
In theory, yes, but I would definitely not do that. You would have to run two sets of balance leads and even then, not sure if the two BMS would interfere with one another or not.
Nice equipment and great work as usual.
what would it take to use these in an electric car . i have the low speed wheego whip 96 volts .uses 250 amps at cruise speed and up tp 500 amps when climbing a hill . i have converted it to 5 speed trans for speed up to 70 miles mph , currently runs on 16 6 volt lead acid batteries . this would be a large investment for me . looking for advice from as many people as possible. currently have a range of 35 to 50 miles depending on hills or not . batteries weight is 1000 lbs
great but I have decided to not go for the batrium system at all but for the diy bms cause it is a lot cheaper and has been developed further for quite a long time and huge community that it can be called a reliable bms solution.
I've heard great things about DIY BMS as well. I haven't tried one myself though.
Look for 4 core mylar cable, same colors and you can get shielded and in various wire thicknesses.
I was wondering if a rivet would work for the balance wire instead of tapping a screw thread? A screw is better I suppose for servicing, I've just never really tapped much before.
not so good idea. rivets are not designed for electrical contact. and it is difficult to dismantle the wire.
I don't think there's any guarantee the rivet would be tight enough or remain tight enough. This project was the first time I've ever used a screw tap. You wouldn't want to see the busbar piece I tested/learned on... LOL
I had a look at a discussion about using rivets in UK electronic installations, apparently there isn't clear guidance but they are considered a risk because you cannot undo it for testing and maintenance. Also being soft aluminium they aren't considered mechanically stable, and when used with copper they would have issues with dissimilar metals.
The purpose of the fuse is to stop current flow when it becomes excessive. It doesn't matter where alone the length of the wire of the fuse is located the current flow is the same.
Yes, it does matter! If you put the fuse 10 feet away from your battery, then you have 10 feet of cable that's susceptible to damage and if that cable were ever damaged or cut in that 10 feet, a short would occur with no safety in place. By putting the fuse as close to the battery as possible, you're lessening the chance of an accident. Sure - it technically works anywhere.
@@LithiumSolar oh, I see what you mean. Not electrically important, but you're assuming something punctures the wire insulation. That's extremely rare. I was thinking in terms of equipment failure, say the inverter has a MOSFET short and shorts the battery input. Then your cables are going to see high current. In that case, it doesn't matter where the fuse is. Sure, putting the fuse closer to the battery makes sense if you have the cables run through metal chassis with sharp edges that could cut through insulation.
Hi can I ask you a few questions about the batrium watchmon core and the cell mate k9 bms unit. What are you using to disconnect the charge and discharge cycle from the inverter to your batteries incase the inverter doesn't shut off correctly. I know the negative lead from the battery to the inverter does not pass thru the bms like the common bms does. I have a 12KW low freq. inverter with 6.2 kw of solar panels feeding the inverter. I have 32 new Eve 304 ah cells on the way from Amy at Shenzhen Luyuan Technology
in china. According to Batrium the Watchmon core will not communicate with my Growatt inverter to be able to control it. But did say they were working on trying to get it to communicate with the Growatt inverters. I have thought about using a 48V 10,000 watt 440 amp rated Continuous Duty Relay / Solenoid Switch to connect between the battery and the inverter on the negative cable and let the batrium control it if something should go wrong with the inverter. The solenoid can be wired normally open or normally closed. Do you think this will work ok or what would you suggest to be the best way to use the batrium set up
I use the "critical" state of the Batrium to flip an ABB S5N circuit breaker. The breaker trip is a 24V coil. I haven't actually connected it yet, but I used it prior with my old Watchmon 4. Obviously though this is a manual reset method and only intended to be used when the Batrium sees a fault that I consider critical, such as a cell over-volted, under-volted, over temp, etc. A relay/solenoid designed for the purpose would probably work as well, but it tends to be difficult/expensive to find a relay/solenoid rated for DC high current.
@@LithiumSolar The solenoid I listed above is for a 48 volt golf cart that is supposed to be rated for 440 amps which my system should never see and yes it would only be used for a critical event , so if I let it pass thru the solenoid in the normally closed position it should not draw very much if any currant from my system unless a critical event happens. I will look into the ABB S5N circuit breaker also.
How does this bms work? I'm confused on how it works without the main power wire running to it. I looked at their website and it doesn't mention any charge or discharge rate. Thanks for any help and information you can provide
The BMS is designed to communicate with your equipment. It's a computer that will tell your inverter or charger when to shut off. If your equipment is like mine and does not support this, you can use relays, contactor, etc.
So is the batrium just a active balancer??? How does it shut down the battery if voltage to high or low??
No. The Batrium is a passive balancer.
Why do you use just one 16s-BMS instead of two for your 32 batteries?
Like what kind of 16s BMS? A JBD?
@@LithiumSolar Batrium allows to use one CellMate-K9 for every 16s-block, so you just need to use another CellMate-K9 to connect every of your 32 cells to have every cell balanced.
If you take a look at the batrium-website, there's a picture with a WatchMon Core and two CellMate-K9 connected for a 16s-battery with 2 blocks.
Source: www.batrium.com/collections/kits/products/watchmon-core-k9
@@RipsDiner In my setup, the 32 batteries are wired in groups of 2, so instead of having two 16s at 280Ah each, I have one big battery that's 16s at 560Ah. If you wired them in two separate 16s banks, you would need two BMS (two K9's, one watchmon core).
@@LithiumSolar , the problem of your setup is, that those 16 pairs get unbalanced during the next months. Is it worth to save ~150$ for another CellMate-K9?
What is the advantage of 2 p16 s vs 2 16s except not to buy a second k9 or is there none?
Is there some unbalance to see or what are the pro and cons after this longer period
Thanks
Where did you
find these "2in8out" ? Thanks for your video!
I bought it here amzn.to/3iOBAqj
I have a question. I realize this watchmon is a cell monitor. Do you still have the part of a BMS inline with the battery to turn current off if there is an over or under voltage condition?
The BMS will communicate directly with the inverter and chargers to shut them down. Additionally, I'll have a large ABB circuit breaker that can be tripped remotely during a critical fault. This is not a FET-based controller, it's better!
@@LithiumSolar I see...I do like the idea of driving a relay to turn off power or signaling charger to stop charging. I never liked the idea of FETS turning things off as they are subject to failure. Thanks.
Not sure I understand why you are fusing all the balance leads? Can you please explain?
If any one of the leads is damaged, cut, nicked, the BMS fails, or otherwise causes a short circuit somewhere along the path - you want a fuse that will blow rather than having the wires turn in to a melted mess and catching fire.
Thanks for the instruction. I'm connecting my BMS using your buss bar method too. I checked for support of the Batrium BMS software on Linux - not supported. Pity, I am running my system on a Raspberry Pi.
Yeah, no linux unfortunately. You only need Windows to configure it though. You can pull data from it using Linux. I run a CentOS VM to manage that, though an RPI would work great as well!
@@LithiumSolar thanks for replying. Yeah, I wonder why manufacturers insist on developing their own software exclusively rather than publishing a full API (not a knobbled version) and letting the user community develop the software for them in addition to what they develop. Everyone wins, but this "mine, mine, mine" mentality makes us all losers. I won't consider batrium for this one reason...I want flexibility not restrictions for my hardware.
@@MiniLuv-1984
then you are really really restricted in anything you are doing.
@@ursodermatt8809 Au contraire Urs, there are several open BMS available and Open means complete freedom and choice. For example Check out Stuart Pittaway's openBMS.
I don't want Batrium's intellectual property, I just want to use their products without restrictions on operating systems and other restrictions they impose and that means they provide a concise API. Nothing else need to change. They could do that very easily (they probably already have the API specifications for internal use), so they have spent the money building it but aren't selling it.
@@MiniLuv-1984
first of all i do not see your problem. with the batrium you only need windows to program the balancing etc. then you can forget about it and go back to do your linux thing.
and keep in mind, your linux people are a very tiny community.
that's a sensor, which should be direct contact, inserting a mechanical fuse could cause a weaker connections. there are no kind load on these balance leads, usually high impendence terminals only to sense voltage, probably mosfet inputs sense these fuse are useless
The load is irrelevant. The fuse is there to prevent a fault (cut wires, failed component on K9, or otherwise short circuit) from creating a fire.
@@LithiumSolar so hw small fuse value do you plan for it to secure your cut or break, when the sense line is almost infinity? hopefully it does not create and any mechanical voltage drop. good luck
I have batrium , with 3 k9's , 48 cells. Ive a wire dropping voltage now and then , can see it on the daily session min cell voltage. But how can know wire is dropping voltage, maybe bad bad connection. How can I data log the sistem? Can you help me?
I've had something similar happening and I'm certain it's not a wiring issue. I've reported this to Batrium and am told they're working on a new firmware update which may change how voltages are being read, though I haven't received it for testing yet.
I'd like to see more on this bms 👍
i live in japan, then what can i do , if i want order batrium products? i want to build your battery pack in the future. also, i want to know your whole solar system, such as solar panels, controller, inverter, how to connect each other...thanks, very informed!!!
Great video, mate. Thanks.
Nice work, Mon!
excellent infomation
Excellent video, sir. Keep it up.
My bats. dealer suggests these cells should be compressed to 280-320 kilos, for a 1000 hours longer dura.
How much did all cost u?
Would it be possible to make a 5000ah bank running 48v and monitoring each cell?
Sure. Be mighty expensive though.
great video thanks a bunch - super.
Thanks for the Video. I'm new to battery BMSs and am considering building 6 sets of 280 Ah 51.2 battery banks using the Batrium BMSs. One thing I didn't get is how the BMS will stop the charging when the batteries are full, is there something that will disconnect or make the charger stop? Any help is appreciated
I was thinking the same, other bms are connected to the negative side of the bank! Did you get any answer on this? Thanks!
@@garbi8526 I have just finished my installation. In my case, I have connected the Watchmon5 to the Victron Cerbo gx using the CANBUS. The nice thing about the Batrium is that you can configure every aspect of the ramping up and charging of the batteries. When the batteries are full, the charging ramps down nicely. Without the CANBUS I would not use Batrium at all.
@@salimnaufal1779 Nice to know Salim! Have a nice day!
impressive hardware! thinking maybe my Daly is too sketchy...
How is this working after some months?
Both the batteries and the BMS have been running great. Since this video though, I have switched out the solid busbars for a flexible design. See this video for details on that if interested ua-cam.com/video/EHqXgcrtOkc/v-deo.html
very good batrium kit! I'm sad that in Brazil it is very difficult to buy these batteries.
what about aliexpress?
i thought brazil was beholden to china?
@@ursodermatt8809 aliexpress shipping to brazil is more than the batteries and when it arrives the tax is very high.
Divide how so?
Is that FDA and UL approved?
This is DIY, obviously not UL approved. And no, it's not FDA approved either. You should never eat or ingest batteries.........? I'll assume that part is a joke.
@@LithiumSolar The whole post was a joke, but its cool you reply.
You'd give a housing inspector a brain aneurism trying to document everything he sees there, but I like it, sorta mad scientist/steampunk vibe.
Yes 👍 🔋⚡
Very nice!
Nice
While the batrium stuff looks really cool, I can't see putting it into a diy system unless high enough capacity per 16s, it can get cost prohibitive very quickly.
It is cheaper than other options, such as REC BMS or Orion BMS...
@@LithiumSolar I understand, I was just comparing cost per 16s per kwh. The ratio of cell cost to bms cost skews badly when you get down to the 100ah range, unless you start building the packs in parallel and using 1 lead for 2-3 batteries. I'm guessing most bms will have trouble balancing the higher the cell AH gets
Super 👌👍🤗
Gee the batrium systems looks nifty yet….over $500 for a BMS is not feasible for many.
500 dollar BMS solution? that is nearly half the price of 48V 100Ah LifePo4 battery. Most BMS solutions are around 150 dollars..what am I missing?
You wouldn't typically use something like this on a 100Ah battery. The battery I used it on here is 51.2V 560Ah.
@@LithiumSolar seems like this Matchmon+k9 does not have current shut down functionality? (I am new to battery bank construction so perhaps I am misunderstanding the full roles of BMS in the systems.. I have seem some BMS that connect/manage some big switch--which I interpret as some safety shut off)
Make sure you don't put a screw through your battery!! This is important!
You said 32 cells, so is this a 2p 16s setup? Nvm I just heard you say it was 😂
Yep, 16s2p - 51.2V system :)
@@LithiumSolar nice I'm going to try an 8s5p from the battery hookup 25ah prismatic cells
Rookie question: How is this BMS different than the million BMS's on Aliexpress?
It's reliable. Something you can install and forget, since it will just work.
@@vbdaniel4 I’ve found the WiFi connection to be a bit flakey.
You are right. Even if the access point (wlan router) is in the same room, the data is sometimes slow to arrive. But the bms is still doing it's job. It's just the human eye in front of the screen, who suffers 😏
I did not see it in action. I am not convinced getting Batrium...
What would you like to see? I've been running it for months now without issue.
No need for a fuse, use a thinner cable, the cable will act as a fuse.
No. A long 3ft cable is not the same thing as a fuse no matter the size of it.
First!!! 🤘🏻😎🤘🏻
😁👌👍🖖✌😎
So are you just an advert site now?
How do you figure that? I've spent ~$4000 on what you see in this video.
Batrum is garbage, it burned my pack
Wow, what happened?!