How To Raise Crawlspace Floor Joist Without Replacing Sagging or Damaged Structural Beam
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- Опубліковано 8 жов 2024
- www.homebuildi... Visit the website today to learn more about home repairs, new house construction and building design. This video will provide do it yourselfer's with another construction repair method for raising floor joist in a crawlspace without removing the old damaged floor beam. Easy home repairs like these might not work on all projects and structural engineers and local building authorities might need to be consulted.
Tremendous instruction. I had this problem in my first house. The Issue that I had was getting a solid base to use in order to my hydrolic jack. Much time was saved by simply using a patio slab centering them under the jack . You learn a lot simply be using a little logic . (Live and learn)
Hopefully today it's watch a video or 100 videos until you find something that will work with limited trial and error:)
This is a really great explanation and it might solve my problem (partially, anyways). This single story old house I just inherited has round floor joists (like actual logs) and just one structural beam through the center supporting them all. The floor has all sorts of slopes in many directions, including from the center of the house sloping downwards towards the outside wall. Its crazy and I'm not sure what to do about that slope. I'll take a look at some more of your videos.
Yes, some round lumber shouldn't be used. I've seen straight floors with round log joist, but don't know what they had to do to make it straight.
This is an AWESOME!!!! video. Thanks for posting it. I am a mechanic and capable if it is explained well. I have been looking for something like this and you made it so simple.
Glad it was helpful and thanks for letting us know!
Thanks very inlighting
Timed well. Thinking about a fix like this.
The challenge would be doing this in crawl space 😔
Thanks for your video !
Thank you very helpful vídeo
very good information
Great, great video!
I've watched a few of your videos but haven't seen how to jack and replace a flush center beam with the joist butting to both sides?
This is very helpful! We are trying to determine how best to re-shim our concrete block crawlspace piers. Some are no longer even touching the beam at all! We are thinking to use a jack next to the beam and lift about 1/8 of an inch. Then wedge in an oak wood shim...or steel shim....or both. Then remove the jack and go to the next one. Your thoughts?
Great idea, just make sure the shims are secured and can't fall out if there is any movement later on. Use screws or nails.
You can also replace the piers with screw jacks
Thanks for the video
Our pleasure!
would a sister “beam” tied into the existing one, on the inside of the existing beam, work?
raise the new beam to the level floor..
i should ask, would my question pass code or inspection?
I like your question, would it pass code or inspection and that's a question I couldn't answer, but your local building department, structural engineers or building inspectors can.
What if the sagging part is the corner of a room on a corner of the house? I have a slightly sagging foundation in the corner which caused the walls to sag and then the last owner had to replace the rim joist and the sill plate on one wall and just shimmed a corner of one wall and reinstalled the flooring by jamming sub flooring on that side in a strip and screwing in the flooring from the bottom with a 2x6 half into the flooring and half into the 2x6. I just had to replace some of the framing and two joists. But the walls are both still sagging due to foundation settling in the corner. I jacked up the two new joists and shimmed them to level which brought up one wall right near the corner. But the other wall that is parallel to the joists is still sagging. I was going to brace that wall with a 2x6 nailed to the bottom plate and the framing and then try jacking it up by placing blocking every 16” perpendicular to that wall and then jacking up and shimming it along the way. Just not sure how feasible or safe that is. The drop is only about 1” over about 5 feet. Thanks!
Good stuff. Thanks
Glad you enjoyed it
Greg, my 1971 single story ranch block foundation has settled 3.5" at the back of the house. I'm raising the house that amount with a permanent 3 ply 2x10x30' beam and permanent adjustable screw jacks sitting on beefy footers spaced 5' apart. Should I remove the nuts from the anchor bolts, so the sill plate lifts too? Or try to lift the floor joists with rim joist separately from the sill plate?
It will usually depend upon the design building and you might need to contact an engineer to answer your question. However, I can tell you that every time I've made this type of repair I have left the sill plate bolted to the foundation and raised the floor joist.
What would you suggest if someone cut a small section for a toilet drain out of the triple 2×12 beam the floor joists actually set on!!! Lasted a long time because so close to the concrete piller I think!!! But started to sink because the toilet flange was leaking!!!
Put a screw jack ON TOP OF A THICK SOLID PAVER CONCRETE BLOCK under it and lift it to level by screwing up the permanent placement pipe jack stands
The thick solid paver concrete block could be pressed into the soil over time and you might need to inspect regularly and readjust screw jack.
Thank you for a great video. Would you consider jacking up the entire beam followed by securing the piers/concrete columns to the new height as another possibility? I think that way the overall shift in the floor would be more spread out.
If that will work better, then yes. Sometimes it won't, depending on the project.
Looks like a tight space where a palm nailer could be handy.
Absolutely!!
Another solution would be:
Get an LVL/LSL and scab it to the side of the existing beam using the same jacks to set it first.
Step one: pin one end of LVL to touch bottom of joist.
Step two: (1 or 2 jacks) work the jacks towards the other end. Use string line from end to end.
Step three: Fasten LVL to existing beam.
Step four: shim joists for extra support.
I like it.
What should my spacing be for supporting my floor joist or beam is there a standard depending on the span of my joist or beam ?....thanks
I would type floor framing span charts into a search engine like google and see what they suggest.
What do you think about using a steel beam, rather than wood?
Wood is easier to work with, but both are used for repairs.
I just have some bouncey floors when kids run around in the house. Foundation company quoted me about $10k to put supports in. I don't have sag or rot...just the span is too far. Planning to use the triple 2x8 beams but curious about the length and amount of jack post per each section I'm supporting. 6 feet?
Also I'm only wanting to prevent floor bounce but curious if the ground would ever rise and apply too much pressure on my floor joist?
Ground can rise, but I think it could be better to add structural support.
@@gregvancom thanks! Lastly, if I'm adding something like the Tiger Brand jack post for extra support in my home, would I be able to substitute steel instead of using a large triple 2x8 beam? My small mancave has low ceilings and I'm trying to maximize headspace. I wanted to just use 2 jack post spaced 6' apart and place a steel rectangle tube on top.
Why don’t just jack the main beam?
If that will work, then yes, but sometime it won't, because beam is deformed.
@@gregvancom Thank you for your answer! May I also ask you: I have a main beam consisting of 4 2x8 lumbers. Do you know how are they usually attached to each other? Glue? Nails? Or they are not connected at all? The problem is that one of them (the outer one which joists are resting on) is cracked and sagging. I wanted to lift joists using a temporary beam and sister another lumber to the main beam.
What about if the beam has a bump in it? Like a knot that has “swollen”.
You would probably need to cut the top of the beam or the joist to flatten it out. Email me some pictures of your problem if you need a little more help or don't understand what I'm suggesting. You can get our email address at our website.
Where do I start raising, the lowest or highest points?
It will depend on the type of framing and in most cases, the lowest or lower than the highest point should be a good place to start.
Why not just jack up the support beam? Also aren’t those floor joists nailed into the support beam?
Hope this answers your question and thanks for the idea for a video.
ua-cam.com/video/gEDsbfXPyrM/v-deo.html
@@gregvancom it didn’t
If it's severely warped it won't just give. You'll end up rising the entire beam, potentially causing damage.