Thanks Harry. I'm in the process of making a bag and I'm using brass hardware. I thought "wouldn't it be nice to use brass rivets as well" . I forgot my metalwork teachings from forty odd years ago - brass is harder than copper! These are the first saddlers rivets I've set so, you know, in at the deep end!
Thanks so much, Harry. I had bought these lovely rivets but I was not sent the washer so was completely confused how to use them. I am glad to see you have a hard time cutting the post as well, not easy. I have watched many of your videos and really really appreciate them. Thanks!
Thank you for this, I'd been having a hard time with those brass rivets, I'll try cutting at them in three directions. Also love the idea of using a leather spacer to get the right height.
Hugely helpful, thank you. I particularly liked your use of the leather shim, when applied to the flush cutting. I'm finding that the surrounding area of leather takes quite a beating. Any suggestions for keeping that a bit less damaged? Thanks in advance!
Harry , Just a thought as there is always more than one way to skin a cat , Drill a hole in flat bar the same diameter as the rivet The thickness of the Flat bar according to the height of the rivet Then shear off with a cold chisel I have used this method for years on steel rivets also works well
Really nice work. Thanks for the video on setting these brass rivets. They seem like they'd be ideal for straps where you need it to be flat on both sides. Copper rivets are difficult to get flat without looking like trash. Btw those knipex pliers are the best that money can buy. Anybody who will be setting more than a few rivets should buy them
More hammering Harry - I'll have the neighbours driven 'round the twist with my leathercrafting endeavors. It was bad enough using stitching chisels - now I've caught the bug for burr rivets. I'll have the coppers rapping on the door before long.
If you file the shank flat where you cut it you get a much neater head on your rivet.You can use 3 or 4 layers of masking tape with a hole in it as a guard if you're worried about scratching your work.
I have had so much difficulty with brass from Tandy as the washer holes are not correctly sized . I have had aluminum which is a nice option but hard to find . Tip copper can be darkened by dipping them in liver of sulfer disolved in water , look like gun blue but blackened .
Hi Harry, I hope you can give me some advice. I haven’t used these rivets, what I want to know is whether you need to have different sized setters for different sized/gauge rivets or are those type of setters universal.
Javier Flores compared to tin rivets these ones are tough so a hammer is needed...with tin rivets a press or tool is needed to keep the soft rivets profile from being damaged
I would love to see a tutorial on peening escutcheon pins/brass nails for the installation of brass locks on leather. I think key to doing this is to have a lead block strategically positioned underneath the lock, something I plan to experiment with soon.
Have the same type of rivet setter, and was thinking the same. I'm going to make a better one of silver steel. I spent a long time polishing the concave recess in the commercial setter, only to find it is far too deep to be useful, and the rim of the setter makes the washers all ugly. The hammered rivet finish looks nice too, esp. if the hammer face is dressed. Glistening facets-
Cutting brass rivets using hand force is rough on those small muscles. Try using a small bolt cutter to gain greater mechanical advantage. I often place the handle of my cutter onto the bench and then lean onto the other handle. This allows body weight to do the work instead of finger strength.
If you use a simple pair of wire cutting pliers and get the rod deep into the crotch of the cutting end, the leverage you get makes cutting much much easier. Those end cutting snips are famously poor leverage bearing cutters.
OLD LEATHER SMITH here, I do everything you did but, I prefer using the round part of the setter instead of all that pounding 2 eliminate the edges, GOD'S BLESSINGS ✝️⚾🙃
Thanks for your content! really enjoyed.
Thanks Harry. I'm in the process of making a bag and I'm using brass hardware. I thought "wouldn't it be nice to use brass rivets as well" . I forgot my metalwork teachings from forty odd years ago - brass is harder than copper! These are the first saddlers rivets I've set so, you know, in at the deep end!
Yes I was a bit surprised at how hard they are!
Thanks so much, Harry. I had bought these lovely rivets but I was not sent the washer so was completely confused how to use them. I am glad to see you have a hard time cutting the post as well, not easy. I have watched many of your videos and really really appreciate them. Thanks!
Tina Kam Hi Tina the copper ones are a lot softer...I have set 80 of these in the past 10 days and I am suffering!!!!
Another visit with the renaissance man. Thanks for sharing, you're a pleasure to watch.
Thanks Jack
⭐️ excellent presentation and real helpful ⭐️ thanks for sharing your knowledge 👍
Always helpful and informative. Thank you, Harry.
I always enjoy your videos. I should use more of those rivets, I like them. Thanks
Good tutorial Harry. By the twinkle in your eyes I can see you like the look of those rivets. 😊
Josh Luijsterburg Thanks Josh...and yes I do!
Very good show, lots of detail! Cheers!
Thank you for this, I'd been having a hard time with those brass rivets, I'll try cutting at them in three directions. Also love the idea of using a leather spacer to get the right height.
Christina Morris thanks I'm glad it may help.
Rivets! Thanks! Happy NewYear!
Hugely helpful, thank you. I particularly liked your use of the leather shim, when applied to the flush cutting. I'm finding that the surrounding area of leather takes quite a beating. Any suggestions for keeping that a bit less damaged? Thanks in advance!
Excellent tutorial! Thank you.
Nice one Harry! Thanks for posting this one! Bob from Virginia, USA.
vajake1 Thanks Bob
Thank you so much for this video. It was exactly what I needed to see! Those are the rivets I am using as well.
Ggf get for 55
great demo
Harry , Just a thought as there is always more than one way to skin a cat , Drill a hole in flat bar the same diameter as the rivet The thickness of the Flat bar according to the height of the rivet Then shear off with a cold chisel I have used this method for years on steel rivets also works well
Thank you for your time and expertise! From Tennessee, USA.
Thanks for the technical details!
Really nice work. Thanks for the video on setting these brass rivets. They seem like they'd be ideal for straps where you need it to be flat on both sides. Copper rivets are difficult to get flat without looking like trash. Btw those knipex pliers are the best that money can buy. Anybody who will be setting more than a few rivets should buy them
Josh Miller Thanks Josh...also I have now found extra long Knipex which are easier to use.
We follow you from Iraq and accept all our love and appreciation for your wonderful work
abood wisam Thanks abood....greetings from England.
More hammering Harry - I'll have the neighbours driven 'round the twist with my leathercrafting endeavors. It was bad enough using stitching chisels - now I've caught the bug for burr rivets. I'll have the coppers rapping on the door before long.
Thank you, just what I needed
If you file the shank flat where you cut it you get a much neater head on your rivet.You can use 3 or 4 layers of masking tape with a hole in it as a guard if you're worried about scratching your work.
Very useful! Thank you
I have had so much difficulty with brass from Tandy as the washer holes are not correctly sized . I have had aluminum which is a nice option but hard to find . Tip copper can be darkened by dipping them in liver of sulfer disolved in water , look like gun blue but blackened .
Thanks very much
Hi Harry, I hope you can give me some advice. I haven’t used these rivets, what I want to know is whether you need to have different sized setters for different sized/gauge rivets or are those type of setters universal.
Hi I use a smaller setter for the smaller rivets. You could just drill a hole in a piece of hardwood to make a setter.
@@harryrogers thanks Harry
Question? Why didn't you use the doming side of your rivet setter instead of the ballpeen.
Bill Wessels Hi Bill its set too deep...only of use for exposed rivets.
Thanks for the reply.
@@harryrogers then buy a more shallow setter!! or use a piece of steel rod and counter sink a shallow dome
Beautiful projects.
Hi .... where can I get these burs & rivets , any link ?
Ebay, Tandy, Abbey England
hi what is the number on your knipex nipper pls/ty tyfs
They come in two lengths, and the longer ones are best as you get more leverage. I think they might be 8 and 10 inch, so go for the 10 inch.
Under what circumstances would you choose a brass rivet over a copper one of similar dimensions? Is it a structural decision or an aesthetic one?
Probably looks!
where can we get this Rivet setting tool ?
This one is made by Pryor of Sheffield..but there are other makers.
@@harryrogers any website where i can buy this ?
@@harryrogers kindly recommend seller for rivet settler .
@@tariqhassan387 Pryor of Sheffield or Osborne
@@harryrogers website ?
Thank you for sharing Harry Rogers!!! I really enjoy watching your videos ~Hillbilly~
great stuff!
Hi Harry.Can we do the same with a hand press grommet?thanks.I learnt a lot with your videos.
Javier Flores compared to tin rivets these ones are tough so a hammer is needed...with tin rivets a press or tool is needed to keep the soft rivets profile from being damaged
Harry Rogers thank you.Now is clear for me.
I would imagine that composite cutters would make easier work of cutting brass rivets.
Cheers Harry!
Do you dome your rivets?
xoney sometimes flat sometimes domed but edges always rounded....I like the look of domed.
Thank u
I would love to see a tutorial on peening escutcheon pins/brass nails for the installation of brass locks on leather. I think key to doing this is to have a lead block strategically positioned underneath the lock, something I plan to experiment with soon.
Great videos!
Are the rivets listed on Tandy as the “Utility Rivets 11280”?
Have the same type of rivet setter, and was thinking the same. I'm going to make a better one of silver steel. I spent a long time polishing the concave recess in the commercial setter, only to find it is far too deep to be useful, and the rim of the setter makes the washers all ugly. The hammered rivet finish looks nice too, esp. if the hammer face is dressed. Glistening facets-
Octopusbeak interesting and snap with the recess being too deep!
Cutting brass rivets using hand force is rough on those small muscles. Try using a small bolt cutter to gain greater mechanical advantage. I often place the handle of my cutter onto the bench and then lean onto the other handle. This allows body weight to do the work instead of finger strength.
Thanks for that..very good advice and helpful. Rgds Harry
If you use a simple pair of wire cutting pliers and get the rod deep into the crotch of the cutting end, the leverage you get makes cutting much much easier. Those end cutting snips are famously poor leverage bearing cutters.
missed the whole video, looking at the chair
OLD LEATHER SMITH here, I do everything you did but, I prefer using the round part of the setter instead of all that pounding 2 eliminate the edges, GOD'S BLESSINGS ✝️⚾🙃
Thanks Jim....the domed do look nice.
hours metal skwoch.
Get some mini bolt cutters and make your life easier.