Tips for a Perfectly Fused Gold Bezel
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- Опубліковано 15 сер 2018
- With the help of Jeanette Caines, author of Soldering Demystified and owner of Jewelry Arts Inc. (jewelryarts.com), learn how to make fused gold bezels with barely visible seams. Watch as she demonstrates and explains how to make a flawlessly fused 22-karat yellow gold bezel quickly and easily.
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22K Yellow Gold Plain Strip, Dead-Soft ow.ly/2oia50HHHWJ
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Smith Complete Little Torch Acetylene and Oxygen System ow.ly/bFs550HHI2h
Smith® Silver Smith™ Torch Acetylene and Air Soldering Tip, #00 ow.ly/XMU350HHI3f
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Durston Hardened Ring Mandrel, 16" ow.ly/lGKF50HHI8M
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Really great video. Lots of information, easy to absorb it. Thanks for sharing your time and talent with us. Be happy, safe and stay healthy.
She makes everything look so easy!
Oh joy! Love this video! How about flux?
Awesome demo! Would like to see how you set a stone in this bezel as a follow up.
Thank you! It is essentially the same process for fine silver, is that right?
The link for supplies used in the video just goes to the Rio home page. Can you update the link please? And does the 22k gold strip and sheet available on the Rio website fuse? I know some alloys won’t fuse properly.
What block are you using? I am having trouble melting gold bezels on my charcoal block. Should I be using something else? Does 18K fuse the same?
How about line inside the ring?
Great!!!
Hi Rio/Jeanette, I have one more question: When I started to do exactly as Jeanette instructed I discovered that the 22k bezel wire I ordered was anything BUT soft (annealed), so it definitely did not bend as hers did. So, my question (and I haven't found the answer anywhere else yet) is how/what is the process for annealing 22k bezel wire? Is it the same as silver (Sharpie pen goes away at annealing temp...)? Thank you. There is so little info on this out there, it's as if goldsmiths are a secret society that doesn't want to share knowledge (at least not on UA-cam - yet!). When I actually know something about this and have experience in this area, I'm going to reveal everything I learn!
I feel the same - I asked in several forums but if I always get an answer about silver I never do about gold! 😬😁 Must be a Secret...
@@indira3 no answer from Jeanette either...
Not sure if anyone ever received and answer to this question, but I thought I would post anyway. If the stock you ordered is the same gauge as what was used in the video and you are having trouble bending it, I would first consider it may not be 22k. High karat 22 & 24k gold is quite resistant to hardening. Once you have determined it is in fact 22k, annealing is the same with 22k as it is with any other karat. you simply lay the piece on a heat resistant block and heat evenly to a dull cherry red color. I personally allow the piece to sit on my steel block for a few seconds, until the red is gone, before quenching. After an annealing cycle 22k, like what was used in this video, should be like a butter ribbon. No fancy tricks or trade secrets, but you do have to be sure with what you are working.
Hi Rio, I'd like to add to Debbie Minter's question (I've never heard anyone say it's counter-productive to file. Is there a reason for that? Would you saw ?) - AFTER reading your response; as I understand quality and efficient fabrication, when preparing a join, filing is used to make the butt end exactly that, a butt end. It is not usually to thin the metal on the lateral plane. So, the question remains, why is it "counter-productive" to create a very good, clean 90-degree butt join surface in preparation for fusing? Is it just a waste of time or is it truly a negative? In fact, it seems like not filing would actually add to the unnecessary waste of the metal in later filing because there would be the need to correct the dip that is there because the butt join was NOT filed (to a 90-degree angle). This is physics and chemistry (the fusing), which I want to understand and utilize efficiently. At a later time in the video when Jeanette is cleaning up her join, she uses a file to laterally smooth the join. It seems that the file could be removing more metal than necessary in comparison to doing, a true butt join earlier in the process. I could draw a picture better, but I hope that explains it. Two ends that have shear straight 90 degree angles, when butted up make a join that should almost need no filing. And if there is any filing, shouldn't it be just superficially smooth the surface so there is no visual sign of the join, (excellent smithing)? I don't mean to get so picky (well, actually I DO), I want to learn and be the best mechanic of these materials as possible. Thank you for giving us any part of Jeanette Cains, she is a master and an excellent teacher. Her book, Soldering Demystified, changed my work from maybe to definitely! It is well written and simple to understand and makes sense. Not one single technique I've tried from her book has been anything but spot on, and in fact, has been a real eye-opener about WHY soldering happens the way it does - how great is that? No grey area at all and THAT is a real help for students. "Thank you", two small words, huge intention.
Hi there, and thanks for taking the time to leave such a thoughtful comment. We circled back with our Jewelry Techs, and here's what one of them has to say: "I think the reason Jeannette says filing is counter-productive is because, in my own experience, it can be very difficult to get a fully flush seam through filing. Just based on the motion that the arm, hand, and file travel during filing, getting a perfectly smooth seam is almost an exercise in futility. It’s usually much quicker to just re-adjust the seam or re-cut." Lots of interesting perspectives in this vibrant community!
To file precisely in this way, I use a 2x2” board with a good 90 degree end on it, clamped in a vise and sticking out from the jaws a bit on the right side (since I file right handed). I hold the partially curled strip down with with one hand with the end to be filed flush with the end of the board. Then I very lightly “feed” it into the file as I take a stroke, with the file held flush against the end of the board for the whole length of the stroke (it needs to be a large file to reference in this way; you have it mated on the end of the board, then start to push while feeding the bezel strip in slightly, then remove the file at the end of the stroke (don’t back up). It’s tricky at first and I’m sure a jig would be a good investment if you make enough, just wanted to share my low-tech method.
Thank you. I've never heard anyone say it's counter productive to file. Is there a reason for that? Would you saw ?
Hi Debbie, We talked to our Jewelry Tech Team about this, here's what they they said, "Too much filing can thin an already thin piece of metal down to far, making it unusable. Sanding takes a little longer, but makes it less likely to remove too much material. Also, when the bezel was fused, there is not that excess material that solder typically can leave, so there is less to remove.
Regarding sawing, if your joint is too far off, you may choose to saw for a nice joint. If filing, we recommend to use a miter jig like this: www.riogrande.com/search?q=miter+jig&c=&t=1&pageSize=32
This gives a very clean square end on the wire. Just be sure to be mindful of how much material this removes so the bezel remains the proper size for your project." Hope this helps!
I usually just cut with shears and then it's ready to fuse. With thin 26 gauge sheet, that is the easiest method. I would only saw if I was using thick material.
HI, I thought you'd like a little support on your excellent question : See my response if you'd like, hope that is helpful to you too!!
question... when do you put it in water after the seam is done? is it necessary to cool it in water everytime? and dose dropping the gold in water do anything necessary? Quenching
Hello, we will pass your questions along to our Jewelry Tech Team and let you know what they say. Thanks for the questions and thanks for watching!
Hello we spoke to our Tech Team and they said they are not sure what Jannette would do but with 22k, however they said that they tend to move it off the pad and let it air cool. You might see a tiny bit of difference in hardness if you quench but not all that much. If you quench make sure all the color of the heat is gone from the metal before you quench. We hope this is helpful! Thank you for your support!
Hello! What #2 file is that? Thank you.
Here you go! www.riogrande.com/product/glardon-vallorbe-valtitan-half-round-hand-file-swiss-cut-2/114940
Does this technique work with brass copper and silver too?
Hi there - Brass and copper would not fuse well with because they will oxidize during the heating process which will resist fusing. Sterling Silver can be fused but it is very difficult to do without melting the metal. We would recommend fine silver or argentium instead.
So if i want to put together a brass bezel on a brass back plate i need to solder it with silver solder? Is it gonna show? Is there a brass solder?
What gauge gold sheet are you using?
Hi, and thanks for asking! Jeanette is likely using 24 gauge in this video; she typically uses 22K 24 gauge for her bezels. Hope this helps, and have a great day.
Thanks
Do all gold karat purities fuse well like this or are some better than others?
Hi Markie, Thanks for watching! We asked our Jewelry Tech Team for their take on this, here's what they said, "Usually pure metals are going to fuse better. For example, fine silver bezel wire or 22-24k gold will fuse well, and pure metals will fuse well. Alloys tend to oxidize and keep the metals from fusing.That being said, we have fused 14K before, but it doesn’t fuse as easily." Hope that helps to answer your question.
This alloy is specifically designed to fuse well but the more copper in your alloy, the harder it is to get nice clean fusing.
No flux?
Not with this technique!
Is it possible to solder 24K gold like this?
Hello, we will reach out to our Tech Team and get you the best answer!
Hello we spoke with our Tech Team and they said yes, however, there isn’t a 24k gold solder because a solder has to melt at a lower temp then the metal its soldering. There is a great 22k gold solder which gives a wonderful color match. They would recommend that for soldering the 24k. We have provided a link to this product on our site. We hope this is helpful. www.riogrande.com/product/22K-Plumb-Yellow-Gold-Sheet-Solder-30-Ga-Easy/805605
@@RioGrande1944 Will you ship my order to the EU?
@@zg7278 To better assist you, can you tell us what country you are in?
@@zg7278 Yes! We definitely can! :)
note . I worked as a professional jeweler 40 years , 20 years with Swiss jewelers . We only fused platinum and the norm was with solder . Few in the western world work in 22KT . Our norm was 18kt and we used X hard , hard , medium and easy solders as was required . These fusing videos drive me nuts . No novice should be fusing , its ridiculous and usually will result in distorted or worse fused area. When fusing platinum we would add some thin plat at the seem to avoid any low area happening .