I have repaired many of these intakes with the $35repair kit. Including gaskets. Works very well. The Job takes me 3 hours or so. Many great videos on how to remove the manifold. Not all that hard but most garages love to take advantage of people and charge 8 hours plus new intake.
Hi Craig. I have a 2012 gl350 om642 and am going to be attempting to clean the intake, swirl flaps, egr and all related tubes/hoses. What $35 kit are you talking about? And is that what I'm going to need? Thank you. Steve
looks like there's options to repair the broken plastic bits out there by Uro Parts, AllGermanAuto, Ebay, depending on what plastic bit goes south, it gets replaced with alu or steel. the code for is error is P2006.
Yes, there is no need to replace the whole intake manifold, however there is no point either to simply replace the original plastic lever by a metal one, sometimes even with metal rods, if we don't take the time to clean inside the manifold to get rid of the gunk made from carbon deposits and oil fumes coming in from the EGR valve. Having said that, don't forget to replace all gaskets including the one in the back for the air intake and also the O rings for the injectors. This is also a good time to replace the 3 cam plugs in the back (more room to do so) and the EGR valve as well, not to mention to replace the inside part of the EGR valve screwed to the camshaft which has a counter clock thread.... Don't tight it thinking to remove it. That part gas a shaft rubbing again the plastic diaphragm and is supposed to control oil fumes going to the air intake. A last advice: no need to disconnect the PCM completely, just on the driver side, then move away the whole thing and keep it up with bungee cords. It save 45 minutes. This is uneasy job. And.... make sure to inspect the valve from the openings and don't let anything to go in...
J. Badinter You are very knowledgeable. Do you work on Mercedes cars professionally? Where are you located? Last question: Do earlier ML320 (w163) have this type of intake manifold? Thank you.
I had a ml430 only had 1 mechanical fault in 8 years, a week after I got it ,which was an airmass thingy ,which was replaced under warranty. The plastics around the seat switches were beginning to fall off though. My biggest problem was when I came to sell it... it depreciated like a stone, making it the biggest waste of money for me ever, when I think about.
Yes, it is an expensive repair. Not only ML350. I believe a lot of other models uses this same air intake. It's prone to have this problem due to the PCV, follow the black rubber hose that starts from the down elbow below the MAF. You will see it goes back the engine cam.. This is where the source of problem is. Even if you change a new one, it will happen again due to this flaw.
I own and maintain four (4) Mercedes. The oldest is a 1995 SL500, then a 1999 ML320 (328,000 kms), a 2008 ML550, and a 2012 ML350. They are all running in perfect shape, and have been extremely reliable. One problem is that owners do not maintain/replace relatively inexpensive parts, which then leads to big expensive repairs, as shown on this video. One the back side of engines is a PVC Oil Separator. The internal diaphragm wears out within 80,000 miles. If the PVC Separator isn't replaced as part of scheduled maintenance, then excess engine oil will bypass through the PVC Separator and enter into the Intake manifold. When this happens, the oil carbons up the "Flaps" and then the controlling arms, etc. that operate the "Flaps" are put under too much stress and things break. The PVC Oil Separator is about a $45 part, and easy to replace yourself. Do the maintenance, and these beautifully-engineered German vehicles will last for a long, long, time. My 22-year old SL500 still looks like it's only 3 years old, and will still blow the doors off other cars. Hope this is of help. God Bless, Arctic
Im glad im not the only one here, 300k on my 2008 c350, drive and runs like new, not a single thing on the car is faulty or leaking, never had any big issues just simple maintenance parts. I would recommend you use 303 Aerospace Rubber and plastic protectant on the engine bay, mine iwth 300k, very hot and cold winters and my plastics, hoses,vacuum lines all look new because I have protected them for a long time
as soon as i get the money for the new intake, I will do the replacement my self thinking of a whole day process just because never done it before, thanks for the video ml350 2006 93k miles on it like the vehicle very much and paid for so it worth the work and the part replacement good engine after that repair.
Sergei Zhukov I'm with you I've been an owner of BMW and MB for over 25 YRS. My last BMW was a 2005 535i with under 200K ending up going to the crusher after giving up on BMW ....it was a money pit. Changed engine, Dynamic steering issues, control modules for heater, windows, adaptive steering, changed rack and pinion replaced and on ..... My wife's 2011 MB ML-350 another money pit did the oil cooler seals replaced as well and exhaust manifolds, replaced rear left tail light assembly 2 times, now adblue heater element is gone and I'm expecting another big repair for known issues from all forums yet they don't care. YOU KNOW WHAT IS FUNNY? WITH ALL OF THOSE BAD CARDS, MODULES REPLACED NOT ONCE DID I HAVE TO REPLACE A FUSE... AREN'T FUSES USED TO PROTECT THE POTENTIAL ELECTRICAL PROBLEMS? PROTECT THOSE MODULES AND CARDS IT SEEMS THAT ALL OF THIS TECH HAS BEEN USED TO POINT AT PROBLEMS AFTER THE FACT SO THEY CAN DIAGNOSE PROBLEMS AND MANY TIMES THEY HAVE TO GET GERMANY INVOLVED FOR EVEN THEM DON'T KNOW SOMETIMES OR TAKES TIME FOR THEM TO RESOLVE. JUST LIKE THE BMW FIRST MOTOR THAT I HAD TO REPLACE ON ANY OF MY CARS. IT HAD LESS THAT 146k WHEN ENGINE NEEDED TO REPLACE...I HAD NO LIGHTS, NO WARNINGS JUST DIED ON THE SIDE OF THE ROAD. MAINTENANCE I'M ON TOP OF IT...AS SOON AS A LIGHT COMES ON THE DASH I ALWAYS HAVE IT SERVICED ASAP Perhaps the German engineers NA are stupid? It's just a matter of time before they will realize that their short term thinking will have a lasting impact! German cars in my opinion aren't what they use to be and just a cash grab. I've gone Japanese.... I've been a loyal German supporter for 25 YRS but I've had enough of the over engineered and the sub standard use of inadequate material used to manufacture their vehicles resulting in big repair bills. If they know of issues at least have the integrity to reduce repair costs for engineering flaws and focusing on the bottom line. They will learn the hard way when they realize how difficult it will be to regain market share. Funny, Germany's loss is Japan's gain weren't they allies???
thank you for the information I really appreciate it. I purchase cars for their life span. So I am very careful to which car I put my money on. my wife purchased a Mercedes Benz 2016 SL550. now I am going through shock as to when my plastic on that car starts failing. I do appreciate your comments on where to get aluminum replacement parts. but in the meantime I pray I don't have to fix this creature after warranty. at my old age two and a half hours is pretty good since it takes me that long to have a cup of coffee. my 2003 Ford Taurus SEL is 70000 miles on it. I am just starting to do air intake clean-ups to improve performance. not bad for $21,000 car.
Its not. These have tumble flaps. They're fine to swap out. With a gasket. M272 engine makes mid torque.. There's repair kits for the lever actuators too now.
I need to watch more(I don't know what is going on with that jags trans or that SAAB under the snow-drift)my adpoted father loved his 67' jaguar roadsters and in 89' he also loved his SAAB 900 turbo-con. But- in 89' or earlier you could never ever get him to buy the troubled xjs or xj sedans-the 60's Jag and the new SAAB- he loved them both and would brag he got more compliments on the SAAB- and the Jag was a show Winner !
It is an unpleasant job to say the least. i have done a few and this last one on an R350 the right side gasket shifted and I had to remove it again. It went faster the 2nd time.
Sorry, haven't been watching your videos cause I've been working on my stupid SAAB and my wife's stupid accord. Anyway, like I said before, your boss doesn't pay you enough. (how did you learn all this crap! I'm lucky I can remember breakfast. ) That is an amazing intake and how it works. The people that designed it are geniuses. (Well, smarter than I am ,anyways.) Too bad the corporate money pincher wanted everything made out of plastic junk so they could save a buck. Not brass or aluminum? NOOooo They wouldn't want it to last the life of the "car". To have it break at 43 K ? ya, that's so worth the money. If I want something that falls apart I'll just stick to SAAB, At least they we're cheap.........Am I bitter? Oh, and your music choice is awesome, I'm old and I love this stuff.(already got 8 PBR's in me, I don't think I'll make it through the rest of the videos.
Spray intake cleaner while engine is running. Clean and lube the actuator pivot points. Full throttle acceleration through all the gears every six months. 2006 C230, 196k miles and original actuators. Carbon build up is the problem.
I had to get my intake manifold replaced on my 2008 c300 sport. Now the only other issues I need fixed is my sway bar links and new control arm bushings
just to add to this repairs my ml350 had 80k and i had to do same repairs and also big problem is the gear/stars that they used on this models are soft compound and would from cam gears out on low throttle and that cost me even more money on top of your original works. i recon Mercedes Benz should be liable for this damages and do recall on they stuff up. any body agree and had same issues should sign up. i had BMW before e46 and bought ml350 for family purpose and comped all this headache from merc car. and also money loss. RECALL galore.
i took a w124 3.8L engine apart about 10 years ago and they had the same low RPM high velocity air system too, i knew then that mercedes was light years ahead of any american angine. I have the w212 3.5L engine too and will be ordering the aluminum arms and save 1000k dollars.
Paul, for future reference, you can swap those plastic linkages on the manifold with metal ones that you can buy third party and you will never have this problem again.
I just replaced those on my wife's car. But the flaps don't move freely, so it's still stuck. I need to separate the top of the manifold and clean it out. But, it could be worn out flaps in there, where they move. So I may need to replace it, after spending the money on the repair kit.
+Amesie's Automotive Corner advise them the mod exists, but you cannot do it. They will figure it out. Not hard to find. The motors can be repaired as the big plastic wheel brakes inside of same. 30$ off ebay.
What this engine need is a oil catch can where the ports from the engine goes back to the intake. These 2 tubes has oil fumes and end up build up and contaminate the intake. Its unfortunate that the intake has these tumble flap made out of plastic and along with the actuator rods are plastic. The oil build up gums up these plastic and eventually it stress the plastic to a point it breaks off hence requiring this intake needing a replacement. The part cost is not that bad, the labor to remove adjacent items to get to it is where it becomes costly. Note: All Mercedes with this intake manifold system will need this "oil catch can" as a line of defense. If you see oil residue in the tubes which you can find in the plastic elbow below the air mass flow sensor and also the bottom of the throttle body. You can be sure there is oil build up in the intake manifold. In this area, you can find the rubber black tubes gong back to the engine.. These are the source of the oil fume build up and also the place where you want to divert it to a oil catch can to clean up the fumes and prevent it depositing it to the intake manifold. Its won't cure it 100% but it will definitely slow down the build up in many folds.
What amazes me is what was once a bench mark company with very good expensive cars is now selling very expensive cars containing so much self destruct material and very expensive replacement parts made so poorly. Adding insult to injury these cars have so much of this crap in them, in difficult locations, that it almost always has to be serviced by a rip off dealership. Mercedes are now in the Yugo class when it comes to durability. I wonder why people, with money to burn, haven't wised up to the fact that they are to blame for Mercedes greediness by continuing to buy them. That leaves the ones who are dumb enough to buy a used one are footing the bill to keep these money pits running.
Wow. what a high priced point of failure. Concepts make sense for managing the air flow velocity but building that stuff out of plastic shows the designed in obsolescence. Seems like they could have done something a little better with turbos, one for the low end and one for the high end. Nice haircut by the way ! Looks good on you. Great work as always Amesie.
Replace the intake - don't use the metal bracket or rod repair kits. The real issue relates to oil coking on the tumble flaps making them difficult to rotate. The plastic rods and brackets act as a sort of safety valve, they will break before the metal flaps do. If a flap breaks you can wind up with pieces in the cylinder and a trashed engine. By replacing the intake you also essentially install new clean tumblers too. Don't shortcut by using the kits, you can regret it later.
The problem is that black rubber tube next to the maf down pipe. You will realize that this rubber tube goes back to the engine block as a breather. Until they redesign this circulation, the engine fume will get into through the downpipe, through the throttle and into the intake manifold gumming it. Then the oil gunk will get all a over the plastic flaps and the actuator, which ends up what you have here.
Yes the Plastic can change and Not the whole Intake Manifold Assembly. Check European Motor Repair .com and you will see and explained trick how to change and replace that cheap plastic.
@@oscargalvez4122 Would not advise to change it to metal. Reason is, you have not solve the main problem. Why the plastic breaks in the first place. It's due to the oil fumes and collected sludge that cause the plastic to fail and clogged. If this oil sludge stays, it's better to leave the plastic as a warning for you to change a new air intake than have it metal and get more sludge which wind down to clog other components in your engine. For example your exhaust manifold, co2 sensor and muffler... When this clogs and breaks, it's a warning to tell you time to change a new air intake and for MERCEDES to make some $$$ in the service department. Bottom line like I said above you, to stop this, you have to stop the connection at the black tube that feeds into the elbow below the MAF.
+sfneurosurgeon I was using an older camera with only a 5 second capture rate. Most of my latest videos use a much better camera with a 2 second capture rate.
All these power adding devices such as those 'flaps', etc have their downfall, now HONESTLY how much weight would they be sacrificing if they made those arms out of stamped steel? Nothing but a money pit one thing after another. I am sure you are familiar with the older MB wiring insulation problems, that is a problem which should be covered under warranty. When someone spends a hundred grand on a car and gets Yugo quality wiring that's a problem. I have a 96 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.2 V-8 [318] with 145,000 miles for a winter vehicle and it runs like a Swiss watch, yes I replaced the typical things like Alt. water pump, radiator, front suspension but that's to be expected, I intend on keeping it due to the built in future problems of these newer vehicles.Speaking of Mopar do you know the automatic trans fluid for their new trans. is 50.00 yes FIFTY dollars a quart and the filter is integrated in the trans pan so a fluid change with labor is close to a grand, I do it myself for about 100.00 using Mopar gasket and fluid
What this engine need is a oil catch can where the ports from the engine goes back to the intake. These 2 tubes has oil fumes and end up build up and contaminate the intake. Its unfortunate that the intake has these tumble flap made out of plastic and along with the actuator rods are plastic. The old build up gums up these plastic and eventually it stress the plastic to a point it breaks off hence requiring this intake needing a replacement. The part cost is not that bad, the labor to remove adjacent items to get to it is where it becomes costly.
I am looking at PartsGeek.com, they are showing the individual adjusters $147 and up, then they have repair kits for $36 . Also entire complete replacement intake manifolds $552 and up. Yes, I am no fan of crap plastic, but the individual parts are very readily available and inexpensive.
nice video's but wy replace the hole intake and not only the broken part? My mecanic in the netherlands is only replacing the broken parts. it saves a lot. And Yes my car is a MB CLS 350 out of 2005 with 260.000 Km in it and still going strong
They sell rebuilt kits on eBay for $90 and it’s easy to do I have done few of these,Mercedes is the only company that you can actually rebuild these on others cars I have done at the shop Kia,bmw,vw you have to replace the whole assembly c class I have done had above 60,000 miles and the e class had above a 100,000 miles these are actually easy to do compared to other brands I have done some in less than 2 hours and it was good to go,MAINTENANCE IS THE BIG ISSUE HERE, I have been owning and maintaining mercedes for years and they are the best vehicles when you maintain them and do the work yourself. My C300 has 118,000 miles never had these issues Just like John Ritchie said replace your oil separator and maintain on time they are very reliable
The worst part is, now even regular cars have so many electronics in them, plastic,and solenoids and sensors that they will be big pieces of shit in 10 years. No point keeping your car more
wothangclang hey bro I have the same car and same issue I really don’t want to replace the whole intake if I can get away with just changing the flaps and parts that are in front of the intake those seem to be the problem, what did u do,?
now I see why my mechanic is charging me $2600 for this repair- surprised our German friends use those crappy plastic components, my first MB, thought it would be higher quality...
Jeremy Clarkson said the 04' Jaguar XJ8 is the last garage car that U can basically "do it yourself."after that U can just hand over your keys to the dealership-even for a tun-up ! what do I think about the revamped Jag XJ8 ? with 145,000 miles-1 owner and plenty of dealership service records to view and car in very nice shape-well care- I'm going to try and get a car-fax extended warranty- I just want your overall view the last few-years of the XJ8 series with the 4.2 L - V8
The fix is easy. It is removing and returning the intake manifold that is difficult, time-consuming and easy to break something else that is the problem.
You don't need to replace the entire manifold, you can replace the plastic lever that controls the rods with a aluminium lever sold by All German Auto parts. www.agatools.com/part/mercedes-intake-manifold-lever
Hello there can describe more about the low-end torque than before, are you getting more mpg's, is the acceleration faster from 0 mph, is the engine smoother, high speed changes, I have same problem w212, drives fine I think but what am I missing once repaired.
Thank you for the video. It’s funny, I was in the Mercedes Benz showroom yesterday looking at a GLS and a family member told me about this issue. I wanted to research the topic in more depth and stumbled upon your and Scotty Kilmers videos. What is your opinion on Audi’s?
mercedes should've just kept the old 3.2 twin spark plug v6. nothing wrong with them and put good amount of power. I have a 2000 e320 265,000 miles and my wife has a 2009 r350 93,000 guess who's run better ?
Good Job fixing this car! All I come across in the past few years are nothing but problems with german cars. Audi, BMW, Mercedes have beautiful design yet are worthless pieces of unreliable crap. Even if one still has the warranty, it's a major pain because it may leave you stranded going long distances. Not cool. This is not about the maintenance. These cars have gaskets, flanges and hundreds of plastic parts that are designed to fail by 90 000 miles or 5-6 years what ever comes first. Even if you manage to replace a part, you need a computer to tell the car computer you have a new part installed so it will recognize it. This repair cost $1300-1500. Am I right?
+Sergei Zhukov A while back I had a '97 BMW 528i. Something broke on the car every 3 - 6 months or so and every time it was minimum $600 to fix even for minor issues, half the time it was much more. Problems with brake rotors, catalytic converters, window trim, power window motors, cup holders, on and on. The coolant pump grenaded one day and left me stranded on the freeway. I replaced it with an 02 Acura TL-S which I still drive to this day, just hit 200,000 miles on it. It has it's own quirks but overall has been reliable (even with the notorious vintage of Honda V6 transmission). I just did the timing belt, coolant pump, spark plugs, etc and I thought my engine bay was tight and hard to work in - this Mercedes looks 100x worse. Wow!
+Sergei Zhukov Many people like myself who love German cars (Mercedes) would agree with your comments. Their Brand names are so strong that they continue to sell cars regardless. There are still some models that perform well. And some people will own some that give them many years of problem free service. You never know what to expect.
+MCAReview You are right. I just can't help but admire them for the looks, handling and comfort, namely (Mercedes E350, S550 , Audi Q7, BMW 7 and 5 series)
+Sergei Zhukov Yes I love those models. With the cost of repairs on late models, I would never recommend someone owning one outside of bumper to bumper warranty through the Dealer. Lease it for 3 years then give if back for a new car. German cars win in terms of Driving Performance.... not reliability.
I think I may have the same problem with my 2007 ML 320 Diesel. It won't shut off, we'll see what the mechanic says. What would be a fair price to pay if is the same problem?
Spray your engine plastics with 303 Aerospace plastic and rubber proctanct and the plastics and rubbers will out live you and avoid this crappy repair.
Yes, it's $114 I purchased one for ML ( I did not notice until I'm about to use it) but still be able to convert it to GL parts. Instead of just tightening the bolt in the conversion parts I also put JB Weld on it to prevent it to loose over time.
tough customer video channel When he was pointing out the plastic parts. I couldn't help but notice a bit of corrosion on the metal parts. I have a 2001 CLK with 36000 miles. The engine compartment on my car looks much cleaner. I did have the car detailed twice a year. Plus I live in California. No exposure to road salt.
I own a 2006 Mercedes R350 and is giving me codes cyl 4,5,6 running very rough. I replaced the intake, plugs, coils, fuel pump, fuel filter and it’s still running rough. Any suggestions?
Can anybody please answer my question. My daughter's c300 is at the dealer right now to replace the intake due to broken rod now they are telling her that oil is migrating from the cam solenoids to the wiring harness and there is some oil already in the ecm. They want $6000 to replace the 4 solenoids and harness. We told them no. But is the oil migration really true? Or this is just bs. Thanks.
Instead of choosing the plastics they use for their strength and durability, they're more concerned with ease of recycling to appease the green lobby. It stinks.
ha. You think that's expensive? I've got a 2013 ml350 Bluetec 4matic. Each headlight is 2000 bucks. Its got 20in tires. Diesel Reductant system is constantly having issues. I paid 500 for a NOX sensor, and on top of that it has to be calibrated when installed. Life is good with this gasoline ml350.
It depends which lever broke. It's low or high end torque, with low end when you accelerate from stop you will notice your rpm will go higher but your car does not move enough where it suppose to.
Hi I am considering buy a 2002 e55amg what are the most common issues I need to lfor thanks any help would be great and wart are the hp numbers withe 10000miles wart would be goo price thanks
Tell me about over priced Mercedes brand machines and the use of cheap limited life parts....... I went through a 1999 SLK-230, CLK-350 and a 2006 SLK-280. MONEY PITS. cheap plastic used in the car - everywhere from front to back. Engine is not the only place. Those 'SEALED FOR LIFE' transmissions are a sad joke. No fill tube. They still have filters and need oil changes - only way is to fill through the drain hole in the pan using a 'special' MB tool. (read: $$) 8 quarts of engine oil per change - $100 with the filter if you do it yourself. Balancer shaft in the 272 and 273 teeth wear down to nothing - and of course MB will not sell you the part, even if you could tear the engine down yourself. Timing chains and PLASTIC chain guides are an expensive repair. engineering rule #1: NEVER put plastic or rubber near a hot oil environment. Customer buyer rule#1: NEVER buy a MB used that is out of factory warranty - unless you have a lot of $$ in the bank to lose Get rid of these cars as soon as the factory warranty expires. Of course you ca pull the motor and rebuild the sealed for life transmission. Good luck buying the parts such as that BALANCER SHAFT. MB is not the only guilty car manufacturer using cheap plastic. My son has a CHEVY SONIC. Inside the transmission soaking in the hot 200F oil is the electronic control unit that shifts ears with solenoids. What else is in there? WIRES. Wiring covered in plastic sheathing. Who in their right mind install WIRING that is bathed and soaking in hot oil during its function? Back to MB - inside the car is FULL OF PLASTIC parts as well. They might as well lower the price of their cars to match the quality and parts material they use. Instead of demanding $80,000 for a car, it should be $15 - $20,000. MB and other car makers will continue this plastic part trend as long as there are people willing to buy their product. You will never get this information from the grinning sales person on the car lot. Only a lot of BS of how great the car is, how much it cost, say anything to get you hooked...using tricks like matching a female sales to a male customer, etc. They never go into detail about how the car will DEPRECIATE and all of the sorted problems and issues the car will eventually have. They do not even tell you about the RECALLS for NEW cars.... Buyer Beware. I went through 3 of these MB's. All money pits. The 2006 CLK-350 had transmission problems - the control unit soaking in hot oil went back. the car went into LIMP MODE, stuck in 2nd gear. That was a $1200 fix, required a new control unit, and had to be coded. then the convertible top which has 7 hydraulic cylinders with micro-switches to open and close in precise sequence went bad. 2 cylinders were leaking due to cheap material used by the MB FACTORY, spilling hydraulic oil everywhere and leaving the top in half open/close mode. That was a $2000 repair for 2 cylinders requiring the entire back seat to be removed to get to those things. Later - more of those cylinders went bad. There are still 5 more to go. If the one that is on top near the rear view mirror goes bad and leaks, it takes out the HEADLINER, and spills oil into the seat area. Ever notice - in most of these repairs using rubber gaskets or O-rings, they remove the cheap quality factory part and replace it with the 'new improved factory part made of better rubber material'? Question: why did MB make these cars using that cheap rubber material that eventually leaks or goes brittle in the first place? That new netter quality rubber material not discovered yet?? Yet MB demands insane prices for their cars. Anyone want to chime in about their brand new Chevy Corvette? The mid engine one selling for $80-$120K. how well is that made? Tesla's? MB - for the price you want for your new cars I expect nothing less than CARBON FIBER.
That would be your 2nd air pump. It make like a turbo whining sound at cold start up. I would disassemble that air pump and spray clean the electric motor of black dust buildup on the motor with mass air flow sensor cleaner. And lubricate the motor shaft connection to housing.
@@nezukokamado4550 I thought this at first but Doesnt this thing turn off after a couple minutes or less? This noise happens while I’m driving after hours it stays on until I shut the car off.
Are you referring to a bad worn out pulley? The air pump only turn on when engine is cold. They turn on like 30sec then turn off. If the high pitch doesn’t turn off might be you have a bad pulley and not 2nd air pump. Unless you have a bad relay for the 2nd air pump that get stuck. But it will throw 3-4 code at once if relay is bad. When you hear the high pitch noise on your engine just unplugged the air pump power connector and that will tell you if it’s your air pump or not. This air pump on my S550 sound like a jet engine.
@@nezukokamado4550 I don’t think it’s a pulley it’s some evap leak cuz I sprayed carb cleaner behind the secondary air pump and it went away temporarily. I had the system smoke tested but they didn’t see anything in that area.
I would remove the EGR mushroom looking valve and clean out the carbon deposits. There should be 2 of them one to the left 2nd air pump and other right top of the pump. But from your explanation of spraying some cleaner behind the pump and noise stop temp, mean you have a leak hidden behind all those hoses.
I have repaired many of these intakes with the $35repair kit. Including gaskets. Works very well. The Job takes me 3 hours or so. Many great videos on how to remove the manifold. Not all that hard but most garages love to take advantage of people and charge 8 hours plus new intake.
Hi Craig. I have a 2012 gl350 om642 and am going to be attempting to clean the intake, swirl flaps, egr and all related tubes/hoses. What $35 kit are you talking about? And is that what I'm going to need? Thank you. Steve
I am getting the P2004 error and like reading about the fact that you can fix this, not replace the intake manifold. Are you are repair shop?
Thank you a lot running about cars to give me a good influence on different parties to learn from.
Wow! Great job. As a home mechanic it would have taken me all day. Always enjoy your videos!!
I'm gonna start using the "uncooked pasta" analogy lol perfect way to describe brittle gaskets and plastic components
very good job, when I have the trouble I will use this video for make the change.
looks like there's options to repair the broken plastic bits out there by Uro Parts, AllGermanAuto, Ebay, depending on what plastic bit goes south, it gets replaced with alu or steel. the code for is error is P2006.
Yes, there is no need to replace the whole intake manifold, however there is no point either to simply replace the original plastic lever by a metal one, sometimes even with metal rods, if we don't take the time to clean inside the manifold to get rid of the gunk made from carbon deposits and oil fumes coming in from the EGR valve.
Having said that, don't forget to replace all gaskets including the one in the back for the air intake and also the O rings for the injectors.
This is also a good time to replace the 3 cam plugs in the back (more room to do so) and the EGR valve as well, not to mention to replace the inside part of the EGR valve screwed to the camshaft which has a counter clock thread.... Don't tight it thinking to remove it. That part gas a shaft rubbing again the plastic diaphragm and is supposed to control oil fumes going to the air intake.
A last advice: no need to disconnect the PCM completely, just on the driver side, then move away the whole thing and keep it up with bungee cords. It save 45 minutes.
This is uneasy job. And.... make sure to inspect the valve from the openings and don't let anything to go in...
J. Badinter You are very knowledgeable. Do you work on Mercedes cars professionally? Where are you located? Last question: Do earlier ML320 (w163) have this type of intake manifold? Thank you.
@@istvanmeissler2238 no this problem is only on the M 272 and M273 motors
Clean inside the intake manifold? Not sure how that would work. You will end up just replacing a new intake to save any headache.
Thanks for the video! We will be getting a Merc with that engine. Now I know one of the things to look at...!
I had a ml430 only had 1 mechanical fault in 8 years, a week after I got it ,which was an airmass thingy ,which was replaced under warranty.
The plastics around the seat switches were beginning to fall off though.
My biggest problem was when I came to sell it... it depreciated like a stone, making it the biggest waste of money for me ever, when I think about.
Yes, it is an expensive repair. Not only ML350. I believe a lot of other models uses this same air intake. It's prone to have this problem due to the PCV, follow the black rubber hose that starts from the down elbow below the MAF. You will see it goes back the engine cam.. This is where the source of problem is. Even if you change a new one, it will happen again due to this flaw.
A company called URO sells repair kits for these manifolds.
I own and maintain four (4) Mercedes.
The oldest is a 1995 SL500, then a 1999 ML320 (328,000 kms), a 2008 ML550, and a 2012 ML350.
They are all running in perfect shape, and have been extremely reliable.
One problem is that owners do not maintain/replace relatively inexpensive parts, which then leads to big expensive repairs, as shown on this video.
One the back side of engines is a PVC Oil Separator. The internal diaphragm wears out within 80,000 miles.
If the PVC Separator isn't replaced as part of scheduled maintenance, then excess engine oil will bypass through the PVC Separator and enter into the Intake manifold. When this happens, the oil carbons up the "Flaps" and then the controlling arms, etc. that operate the "Flaps" are put under too much stress and things break.
The PVC Oil Separator is about a $45 part, and easy to replace yourself.
Do the maintenance, and these beautifully-engineered German vehicles will last for a long, long, time.
My 22-year old SL500 still looks like it's only 3 years old, and will still blow the doors off other cars.
Hope this is of help.
God Bless, Arctic
my engine is that problematic m272. i will check mine if i can find it. thanks for the tip.
U say maintain ok but why the fck they design something that worsen engine situation i say its bad engine design other than "maintain and ur ok"
Im glad im not the only one here, 300k on my 2008 c350, drive and runs like new, not a single thing on the car is faulty or leaking, never had any big issues just simple maintenance parts. I would recommend you use 303 Aerospace Rubber and plastic protectant on the engine bay, mine iwth 300k, very hot and cold winters and my plastics, hoses,vacuum lines all look new because I have protected them for a long time
ltwargssf R Great tip, thank you so much!
John Ritchie thanks for the PVC oil separator tip, I will get mine replaced while in the shop. Thanks also for the other info.
as soon as i get the money for the new intake, I will do the replacement my self thinking of a whole day process just because never done it before, thanks for the video ml350 2006 93k miles on it like the vehicle very much and paid for so it worth the work and the part replacement good engine after that repair.
Sergei Zhukov I'm with you I've been an owner of BMW and MB for over 25 YRS. My last BMW was a 2005 535i with under 200K ending up going to the crusher after giving up on BMW ....it was a money pit. Changed engine, Dynamic steering issues, control modules for heater, windows, adaptive steering, changed rack and pinion replaced and on ..... My wife's 2011 MB ML-350 another money pit did the oil cooler seals replaced as well and exhaust manifolds, replaced rear left tail light assembly 2 times, now adblue heater element is gone and I'm expecting another big repair for known issues from all forums yet they don't care.
YOU KNOW WHAT IS FUNNY?
WITH ALL OF THOSE BAD CARDS, MODULES REPLACED NOT ONCE DID I HAVE TO REPLACE A FUSE... AREN'T FUSES USED TO PROTECT THE POTENTIAL ELECTRICAL PROBLEMS? PROTECT THOSE MODULES AND CARDS IT SEEMS THAT ALL OF THIS TECH HAS BEEN USED TO POINT AT PROBLEMS AFTER THE FACT SO THEY CAN DIAGNOSE PROBLEMS AND MANY TIMES THEY HAVE TO GET GERMANY INVOLVED FOR EVEN THEM DON'T KNOW SOMETIMES OR TAKES TIME FOR THEM TO RESOLVE. JUST LIKE THE BMW FIRST MOTOR THAT I HAD TO REPLACE ON ANY OF MY CARS. IT HAD LESS THAT 146k WHEN ENGINE NEEDED TO REPLACE...I HAD NO LIGHTS, NO WARNINGS JUST DIED ON THE SIDE OF THE ROAD. MAINTENANCE I'M ON TOP OF IT...AS SOON AS A LIGHT COMES ON THE DASH I ALWAYS HAVE IT SERVICED ASAP
Perhaps the German engineers NA are stupid? It's just a matter of time before they will realize that their short term thinking will have a lasting impact! German cars in my opinion aren't what they use to be and just a cash grab.
I've gone Japanese.... I've been a loyal German supporter for 25 YRS but I've had enough of the over engineered and the sub standard use of inadequate material used to manufacture their vehicles resulting in big repair bills. If they know of issues at least have the integrity to reduce repair costs for engineering flaws and focusing on the bottom line. They will learn the hard way when they realize how difficult it will be to regain market share.
Funny, Germany's loss is Japan's gain weren't they allies???
thank you for the information I really appreciate it. I purchase cars for their life span. So I am very careful to which car I put my money on. my wife purchased a Mercedes Benz 2016 SL550. now I am going through shock as to when my plastic on that car starts failing. I do appreciate your comments on where to get aluminum replacement parts. but in the meantime I pray I don't have to fix this creature after warranty. at my old age two and a half hours is pretty good since it takes me that long to have a cup of coffee. my 2003 Ford Taurus SEL is 70000 miles on it. I am just starting to do air intake clean-ups to improve performance. not bad for $21,000 car.
thanks for the video. it convinced me that the repair is beyond my skill level.
Its not. These have tumble flaps. They're fine to swap out. With a gasket. M272 engine makes mid torque..
There's repair kits for the lever actuators too now.
I need to watch more(I don't know what is going on with that jags trans or that SAAB under the snow-drift)my adpoted father loved his 67' jaguar roadsters and in 89' he also loved his SAAB 900 turbo-con. But- in 89' or earlier you could never ever get him to buy the troubled xjs or xj sedans-the 60's Jag and the new SAAB- he loved them both and would brag he got more compliments on the SAAB- and the Jag was a show Winner !
It is an unpleasant job to say the least. i have done a few and this last one on an R350 the right side gasket shifted and I had to remove it again. It went faster the 2nd time.
Unbelievable that this great engendering make those part so simple and breaks so early use and low miles
NYC. BT. Blame Chrysler.
Sorry, haven't been watching your videos cause I've been working on my stupid SAAB and my wife's stupid accord. Anyway, like I said before, your boss doesn't pay you enough. (how did you learn all this crap! I'm lucky I can remember breakfast. ) That is an amazing intake and how it works. The people that designed it are geniuses. (Well, smarter than I am ,anyways.) Too bad the corporate money pincher wanted everything made out of plastic junk so they could save a buck. Not brass or aluminum? NOOooo They wouldn't want it to last the life of the "car". To have it break at 43 K ? ya, that's so worth the money. If I want something that falls apart I'll just stick to SAAB, At least they we're cheap.........Am I bitter? Oh, and your music choice is awesome, I'm old and I love this stuff.(already got 8 PBR's in me, I don't think I'll make it through the rest of the videos.
+Jim Gagne Sorry to hear your SAAB is causing you problems! Usually it is the total opposite. What is the trouble?
Spray intake cleaner while engine is running. Clean and lube the actuator pivot points. Full throttle acceleration through all the gears every six months. 2006 C230, 196k miles and original actuators. Carbon build up is the problem.
garage is about to tackle this job on my slk 350. dropped it off with them today. really glad it's being done under warranty.
I had to get my intake manifold replaced on my 2008 c300 sport. Now the only other issues I need fixed is my sway bar links and new control arm bushings
just to add to this repairs my ml350 had 80k and i had to do same repairs and also big problem is the gear/stars that they used on this models are soft compound and would from cam gears out on low throttle and that cost me even more money on top of your original works. i recon Mercedes Benz should be liable for this damages and do recall on they stuff up. any body agree and had same issues should sign up. i had BMW before e46 and bought ml350 for family purpose and comped all this headache from merc car. and also money loss. RECALL galore.
Oleg Malyuk ip
i took a w124 3.8L engine apart about 10 years ago and they had the same low RPM high velocity air system too, i knew then that mercedes was light years ahead of any american angine. I have the w212 3.5L engine too and will be ordering the aluminum arms and save 1000k dollars.
his enthusiasm haha, great job !
Paul, for future reference, you can swap those plastic linkages on the manifold with metal ones that you can buy third party and you will never have this problem again.
This , repair kit is like $100 shipped
I just replaced those on my wife's car. But the flaps don't move freely, so it's still stuck. I need to separate the top of the manifold and clean it out. But, it could be worn out flaps in there, where they move. So I may need to replace it, after spending the money on the repair kit.
disable the swirl motor, add a resistor cap on the plug to kill the check begin light. works like a champ.
+philip dias That's illegal.
Your point being? Spend $3k replacing the intake then if it makes you feel better...
Overactive egr and ccv venting into the crankcase are the culprits. Gunk the hell out of the intake and kill the swirl motors.
I can't offer illegal services to customers..
+Amesie's Automotive Corner advise them the mod exists, but you cannot do it. They will figure it out. Not hard to find. The motors can be repaired as the big plastic wheel brakes inside of same. 30$ off ebay.
What this engine need is a oil catch can where the ports from the engine goes back to the intake. These 2 tubes has oil fumes and end up build up and contaminate the intake. Its unfortunate that the intake has these tumble flap made out of plastic and along with the actuator rods are plastic. The oil build up gums up these plastic and eventually it stress the plastic to a point it breaks off hence requiring this intake needing a replacement. The part cost is not that bad, the labor to remove adjacent items to get to it is where it becomes costly.
Note: All Mercedes with this intake manifold system will need this "oil catch can" as a line of defense. If you see oil residue in the tubes which you can find in the plastic elbow below the air mass flow sensor and also the bottom of the throttle body. You can be sure there is oil build up in the intake manifold. In this area, you can find the rubber black tubes gong back to the engine.. These are the source of the oil fume build up and also the place where you want to divert it to a oil catch can to clean up the fumes and prevent it depositing it to the intake manifold. Its won't cure it 100% but it will definitely slow down the build up in many folds.
What amazes me is what was once a bench mark company with very good expensive cars is now selling very expensive cars containing so much self destruct material and very expensive replacement parts made so poorly. Adding insult to injury these cars have so much of this crap in them, in difficult locations, that it almost always has to be serviced by a rip off dealership. Mercedes are now in the Yugo class when it comes to durability. I wonder why people, with money to burn, haven't wised up to the fact that they are to blame for Mercedes greediness by continuing to buy them. That leaves the ones who are dumb enough to buy a used one are footing the bill to keep these money pits running.
The kind of video that helps see the truth in an ocean of owners (when it's not 12y old kids) saying the've never had a single problem.
Wow. what a high priced point of failure. Concepts make sense for managing the air flow velocity but building that stuff out of plastic shows the designed in obsolescence. Seems like they could have done something a little better with turbos, one for the low end and one for the high end. Nice haircut by the way ! Looks good on you. Great work as always Amesie.
It is a very complicated engine. I have e350 2007 and it is very expensive to repair any thing in it. Good job and good luck.
Great job!
Great video!
Replace the intake - don't use the metal bracket or rod repair kits.
The real issue relates to oil coking on the tumble flaps making them difficult to rotate. The plastic rods and brackets act as a sort of safety valve, they will break before the metal flaps do. If a flap breaks you can wind up with pieces in the cylinder and a trashed engine.
By replacing the intake you also essentially install new clean tumblers too.
Don't shortcut by using the kits, you can regret it later.
From what I have learned, that plastic junk can either be totally removed or exchanged for thin metal plates.
The problem is that black rubber tube next to the maf down pipe. You will realize that this rubber tube goes back to the engine block as a breather. Until they redesign this circulation, the engine fume will get into through the downpipe, through the throttle and into the intake manifold gumming it. Then the oil gunk will get all a over the plastic flaps and the actuator, which ends up what you have here.
Yes the Plastic can change and Not the whole Intake Manifold Assembly. Check European Motor Repair .com
and you will see and explained trick how to change and replace that cheap plastic.
@@oscargalvez4122 Would not advise to change it to metal. Reason is, you have not solve the main problem. Why the plastic breaks in the first place. It's due to the oil fumes and collected sludge that cause the plastic to fail and clogged. If this oil sludge stays, it's better to leave the plastic as a warning for you to change a new air intake than have it metal and get more sludge which wind down to clog other components in your engine. For example your exhaust manifold, co2 sensor and muffler... When this clogs and breaks, it's a warning to tell you time to change a new air intake and for MERCEDES to make some $$$ in the service department.
Bottom line like I said above you, to stop this, you have to stop the connection at the black tube that feeds into the elbow below the MAF.
Slower time lapse would help. You have more balls than me. Great job.
+sfneurosurgeon I was using an older camera with only a 5 second capture rate.
Most of my latest videos use a much better camera with a 2 second capture rate.
All these power adding devices such as those 'flaps', etc have their downfall, now HONESTLY how much weight would they be sacrificing if they made those arms out of stamped steel? Nothing but a money pit one thing after another. I am sure you are familiar with the older MB wiring insulation problems, that is a problem which should be covered under warranty. When someone spends a hundred grand on a car and gets Yugo quality wiring that's a problem. I have a 96 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.2 V-8 [318] with 145,000 miles for a winter vehicle and it runs like a Swiss watch, yes I replaced the typical things like Alt. water pump, radiator, front suspension but that's to be expected, I intend on keeping it due to the built in future problems of these newer vehicles.Speaking of Mopar do you know the automatic trans fluid for their new trans. is 50.00 yes FIFTY dollars a quart and the filter is integrated in the trans pan so a fluid change with labor is close to a grand, I do it myself for about 100.00 using Mopar gasket and fluid
What this engine need is a oil catch can where the ports from the engine goes back to the intake. These 2 tubes has oil fumes and end up build up and contaminate the intake. Its unfortunate that the intake has these tumble flap made out of plastic and along with the actuator rods are plastic. The old build up gums up these plastic and eventually it stress the plastic to a point it breaks off hence requiring this intake needing a replacement. The part cost is not that bad, the labor to remove adjacent items to get to it is where it becomes costly.
Really impressive to do that in 2.5 hours, great work!
Actually it's standard..
You sir are a better man than me. Awesome work.
Good repair
I am looking at PartsGeek.com, they are showing the individual adjusters $147 and up, then they have repair kits for $36 . Also entire complete replacement intake manifolds $552 and up. Yes, I am no fan of crap plastic, but the individual parts are very readily available and inexpensive.
nice video's but wy replace the hole intake and not only the broken part? My mecanic in the netherlands is only replacing the broken parts. it saves a lot. And Yes my car is a MB CLS 350 out of 2005 with 260.000 Km in it and still going strong
They sell rebuilt kits on eBay for $90 and it’s easy to do I have done few of these,Mercedes is the only company that you can actually rebuild these on others cars I have done at the shop Kia,bmw,vw you have to replace the whole assembly c class I have done had above 60,000 miles and the e class had above a 100,000 miles these are actually easy to do compared to other brands I have done some in less than 2 hours and it was good to go,MAINTENANCE IS THE BIG ISSUE HERE, I have been owning and maintaining mercedes for years and they are the best vehicles when you maintain them and do the work yourself. My C300 has 118,000 miles never had these issues Just like John Ritchie said replace your oil separator and maintain on time they are very reliable
Sir, you are good man.
Good job 👏🏽
Pity you are in NH! My ML430 needs some TLC!
Nice tune !
The worst part is, now even regular cars have so many electronics in them, plastic,and solenoids and sensors that they will be big pieces of shit in 10 years. No point keeping your car more
great work but we need more details if you see Eric videos ,,,, thanks
i have the same problem with mine after about 50,000 mile. maybe less than that because i have symtom a while before.
mine is an 06 c230 sport
wothangclang hey bro I have the same car and same issue I really don’t want to replace the whole intake if I can get away with just changing the flaps and parts that are in front of the intake those seem to be the problem, what did u do,?
now I see why my mechanic is charging me $2600 for this repair- surprised our German friends use those crappy plastic components, my first MB, thought it would be higher quality...
Mercedes quality died a very long time ago
Wasn't that bad... Just did this job and used an eBay one and it cost me $180. No way I'm paying Mercedes or any mechanic lol
It really starts failing due to oil leaks from pcv valve... But how much you charging for labor? These intakes cost $600-800 now on AutohausAZ
There id several companys that makes fixes for these intakes. Mercedes will say you the same plastic actuators to repair it.
u can buy all 3 vac val ,u dont need the hole intake
This man is a genius. I want to have his baby.
2006 is the model year for that ML. NEVER KEEP A MODEL YEAR without a warranty
Jeremy Clarkson said the 04' Jaguar XJ8 is the last garage car that U can basically "do it yourself."after that U can just hand over your keys to the dealership-even for a tun-up ! what do I think about the revamped Jag XJ8 ? with 145,000 miles-1 owner and plenty of dealership service records to view and car in very nice shape-well care- I'm going to try and get a car-fax extended warranty- I just want your overall view the last few-years of the XJ8 series with the 4.2 L - V8
you shouldve used a couple drop lights on each side
Great job
The fix is easy. It is removing and returning the intake manifold that is difficult, time-consuming and easy to break something else that is the problem.
You don't need to replace the entire manifold, you can replace the plastic lever that controls the rods with a aluminium lever sold by All German Auto parts. www.agatools.com/part/mercedes-intake-manifold-lever
Wow. Great catch.
They created a simple solution for a problem that shouldn't exist. Seriously, WTF Mercedes engineers were thinking in using a plastic control lever?!
JELH Totally agree with you. My faith in German engineering has been destroyed for ever.
You can buy the repair ket on Amazon 88 usd only
I wanna add these door flaps to my ls3 chevy, without the plastic hardware of course
Hello there can describe more about the low-end torque than before, are you getting more mpg's, is the acceleration faster from 0 mph, is the engine smoother, high speed changes, I have same problem w212, drives fine I think but what am I missing once repaired.
I really need to join this
Look like a difficult job to me. Do you memorize the steps or just go by the guts?
That is pretty cheap since I paid 700 euros for the right one alternaror on 2008 MB W204.
very good explain. how much this will cost?
Thank you for the video. It’s funny, I was in the Mercedes Benz showroom yesterday looking at a GLS and a family member told me about this issue. I wanted to research the topic in more depth and stumbled upon your and Scotty Kilmers videos. What is your opinion on Audi’s?
mercedes should've just kept the old 3.2 twin spark plug v6. nothing wrong with them and put good amount of power. I have a 2000 e320 265,000 miles and my wife has a 2009 r350 93,000 guess who's run better ?
reducing weight and power of today´s cars would also help to cut down fuel consumptions and emissions
Good Job fixing this car!
All I come across in the past few years are nothing but problems with german cars. Audi, BMW, Mercedes have beautiful design yet are worthless pieces of unreliable crap. Even if one still has the warranty, it's a major pain because it may leave you stranded going long distances. Not cool. This is not about the maintenance. These cars have gaskets, flanges and hundreds of plastic parts that are designed to fail by 90 000 miles or 5-6 years what ever comes first.
Even if you manage to replace a part, you need a computer to tell the car computer you have a new part installed so it will recognize it. This repair cost $1300-1500. Am I right?
+Sergei Zhukov every Mercedes that comes to the shop needs $1000+ in annoying nagging repairs..
+Sergei Zhukov A while back I had a '97 BMW 528i. Something broke on the car every 3 - 6 months or so and every time it was minimum $600 to fix even for minor issues, half the time it was much more. Problems with brake rotors, catalytic converters, window trim, power window motors, cup holders, on and on. The coolant pump grenaded one day and left me stranded on the freeway.
I replaced it with an 02 Acura TL-S which I still drive to this day, just hit 200,000 miles on it. It has it's own quirks but overall has been reliable (even with the notorious vintage of Honda V6 transmission). I just did the timing belt, coolant pump, spark plugs, etc and I thought my engine bay was tight and hard to work in - this Mercedes looks 100x worse. Wow!
+Sergei Zhukov Many people like myself who love German cars (Mercedes) would agree with your comments. Their Brand names are so strong that they continue to sell cars regardless. There are still some models that perform well. And some people will own some that give them many years of problem free service. You never know what to expect.
+MCAReview You are right. I just can't help but admire them for the looks, handling and comfort, namely (Mercedes E350, S550 , Audi Q7, BMW 7 and 5 series)
+Sergei Zhukov Yes I love those models. With the cost of repairs on late models, I would never recommend someone owning one outside of bumper to bumper warranty through the Dealer. Lease it for 3 years then give if back for a new car. German cars win in terms of Driving Performance.... not reliability.
2006 ML350,C230 sport this is the Mercedes Benz Chrysler or DaimlerChrysler era those cars where pieces of crap
I have 08 E350 with code P0012 !
I think I may have the same problem with my 2007 ML 320 Diesel. It won't shut off, we'll see what the mechanic says. What would be a fair price to pay if is the same problem?
Nah you can get all those repair parts on eBay even advance auto
Have you had the privilege of changing the balance shaft yet? That's a common problem and VERY expensive
Spray your engine plastics with 303 Aerospace plastic and rubber proctanct and the plastics and rubbers will out live you and avoid this crappy repair.
They do sell repair kits made of aluminum for certain models to cure that problem, not sure about that specific engine?
Yes, it's $114 I purchased one for ML ( I did not notice until I'm about to use it) but still be able to convert it to GL parts. Instead of just tightening the bolt in the conversion parts I also put JB Weld on it to prevent it to loose over time.
So the intake manifold is where Mercedes cuts corners. 😂
You are very good at this man , do you work on Audi's as well?
+losmenace2rvls Yes I do.
great vid , what year was this ML350 cheers
Dónde se consigue intake o pieza de reparación
All the road salt and de-icing crap are turning your plastics into uncooked pasta. When they were new, they were more like al dente pasta.
tough customer video channel When he was pointing out the plastic parts. I couldn't help but notice a bit of corrosion on the metal parts. I have a 2001 CLK with 36000 miles. The engine compartment on my car looks much cleaner. I did have the car detailed twice a year. Plus I live in California. No exposure to road salt.
I own a 2006 Mercedes R350 and is giving me codes cyl 4,5,6 running very rough. I replaced the intake, plugs, coils, fuel pump, fuel filter and it’s still running rough. Any suggestions?
Can anybody please answer my question. My daughter's c300 is at the dealer right now to replace the intake due to broken rod now they are telling her that oil is migrating from the cam solenoids to the wiring harness and there is some oil already in the ecm. They want $6000 to replace the 4 solenoids and harness. We told them no. But is the oil migration really true? Or this is just bs. Thanks.
what was to DTC code that pointed to that issue?
Instead of choosing the plastics they use for their strength and durability, they're more concerned with ease of recycling to appease the green lobby. It stinks.
ha. You think that's expensive? I've got a 2013 ml350 Bluetec 4matic. Each headlight is 2000 bucks. Its got 20in tires. Diesel Reductant system is constantly having issues. I paid 500 for a NOX sensor, and on top of that it has to be calibrated when installed. Life is good with this gasoline ml350.
how much did you charge for that job?
It's not that difficult to do. Easy job, if you know what you're doing. I did that job on the car I got for my wife.
How do you know when your intake is bad???
It depends which lever broke. It's low or high end torque, with low end when you accelerate from stop you will notice your rpm will go higher but your car does not move enough where it suppose to.
I think in 20 years there will only be electric motors to fix and they don't break as much
nice bro
Was that a 4.7 ?
Hi I am considering buy a 2002 e55amg what are the most common issues I need to lfor thanks any help would be great and wart are the hp numbers withe 10000miles wart would be goo price thanks
Tell me about over priced Mercedes brand machines and the use of cheap limited life parts.......
I went through a 1999 SLK-230, CLK-350 and a 2006 SLK-280. MONEY PITS. cheap plastic used in the car - everywhere from front to back. Engine is not the only place. Those 'SEALED FOR LIFE' transmissions are a sad joke. No fill tube. They still have filters and need oil changes - only way is to fill through the drain hole in the pan using a 'special' MB tool. (read: $$)
8 quarts of engine oil per change - $100 with the filter if you do it yourself.
Balancer shaft in the 272 and 273 teeth wear down to nothing - and of course MB will not sell you the part, even if you could tear the engine down yourself. Timing chains and PLASTIC chain guides are an expensive repair.
engineering rule #1: NEVER put plastic or rubber near a hot oil environment.
Customer buyer rule#1: NEVER buy a MB used that is out of factory warranty - unless you have a lot of $$ in the bank to lose
Get rid of these cars as soon as the factory warranty expires. Of course you ca pull the motor and rebuild the sealed for life transmission. Good luck buying the parts such as that BALANCER SHAFT.
MB is not the only guilty car manufacturer using cheap plastic. My son has a CHEVY SONIC. Inside the transmission soaking in the hot 200F oil is the electronic control unit that shifts ears with solenoids. What else is in there? WIRES. Wiring covered in plastic sheathing. Who in their right mind install WIRING that is bathed and soaking in hot oil during its function?
Back to MB - inside the car is FULL OF PLASTIC parts as well. They might as well lower the price of their cars to match the quality and parts material they use. Instead of demanding $80,000 for a car, it should be $15 - $20,000.
MB and other car makers will continue this plastic part trend as long as there are people willing to buy their product.
You will never get this information from the grinning sales person on the car lot. Only a lot of BS of how great the car is, how much it cost, say anything to get you hooked...using tricks like matching a female sales to a male customer, etc. They never go into detail about how the car will DEPRECIATE and all of the sorted problems and issues the car will eventually have. They do not even tell you about the RECALLS for NEW cars....
Buyer Beware. I went through 3 of these MB's. All money pits. The 2006 CLK-350 had transmission problems - the control unit soaking in hot oil went back. the car went into LIMP MODE, stuck in 2nd gear. That was a $1200 fix, required a new control unit, and had to be coded. then the convertible top which has 7 hydraulic cylinders with micro-switches to open and close in precise sequence went bad. 2 cylinders were leaking due to cheap material used by the MB FACTORY, spilling hydraulic oil everywhere and leaving the top in half open/close mode. That was a $2000 repair for 2 cylinders requiring the entire back seat to be removed to get to those things.
Later - more of those cylinders went bad. There are still 5 more to go. If the one that is on top near the rear view mirror goes bad and leaks, it takes out the HEADLINER, and spills oil into the seat area.
Ever notice - in most of these repairs using rubber gaskets or O-rings, they remove the cheap quality factory part and replace it with the 'new improved factory part made of better rubber material'?
Question: why did MB make these cars using that cheap rubber material that eventually leaks or goes brittle in the first place? That new netter quality rubber material not discovered yet?? Yet MB demands insane prices for their cars.
Anyone want to chime in about their brand new Chevy Corvette? The mid engine one selling for $80-$120K. how well is that made?
Tesla's?
MB - for the price you want for your new cars I expect nothing less than CARBON FIBER.
I am having a high pitched whistling noise from the front of my manifold would it be an air hose causing this noise or do I need a whole new manifold?
That would be your 2nd air pump. It make like a turbo whining sound at cold start up. I would disassemble that air pump and spray clean the electric motor of black dust buildup on the motor with mass air flow sensor cleaner. And lubricate the motor shaft connection to housing.
@@nezukokamado4550 I thought this at first but Doesnt this thing turn off after a couple minutes or less? This noise happens while I’m driving after hours it stays on until I shut the car off.
Are you referring to a bad worn out pulley? The air pump only turn on when engine is cold. They turn on like 30sec then turn off. If the high pitch doesn’t turn off might be you have a bad pulley and not 2nd air pump. Unless you have a bad relay for the 2nd air pump that get stuck. But it will throw 3-4 code at once if relay is bad. When you hear the high pitch noise on your engine just unplugged the air pump power connector and that will tell you if it’s your air pump or not. This air pump on my S550 sound like a jet engine.
@@nezukokamado4550 I don’t think it’s a pulley it’s some evap leak cuz I sprayed carb cleaner behind the secondary air pump and it went away temporarily. I had the system smoke tested but they didn’t see anything in that area.
I would remove the EGR mushroom looking valve and clean out the carbon deposits. There should be 2 of them one to the left 2nd air pump and other right top of the pump. But from your explanation of spraying some cleaner behind the pump and noise stop temp, mean you have a leak hidden behind all those hoses.