The name of the knife «Sløyd» is the swedish/norwegian name of the woodworking classes in school….and yes, you’ll find a mora-knife in every toolbox in scandinavia. Thanks for sharing the great work
slots involved woodworking, yes, but papermodeling and cardboard modeling as well. Students began as paper, progressed to cardboard and then to wood and eventually sheet metal. It was to teach exacting standards of eye-hand coordination from very young ages. The Charlotte Mason method of homeschool and cottage schools have revived its use and these knives have been used with paper and cardboard as well as wood.
I inherited one of those knives from a friend's father who passed away. They are pretty handy, but not shaped like anything a typical American woodworker sees.
I have a ‘56 I got back in 1975 or so while doing slave labor for a neighbor to atone for a broken window. Think Gran Torino. That eventually led to a ‘52 Les Paul gold top. No kidding but it’s a long story. I still have both and the circumstances make them priceless to me.
It probably would not have been worth the effort, but it is often possible to recover pots like that one. You can carefully pry up the tabs holding the back in place and remove the back. This lets you get in to really clean the thing. You can also pop the C ring off the shaft, and once the ring and back are removed, you can drop the whole shaft and insulator disk with the wiper contacts out the back of the pot. This lets you run a brush thru the shaft hole with some solvent, and wipe the shaft bearing area clean with a rag and some solvent. Sometimes the wiper has has become weak and has lifted, at least partially, from contact with the resistive track. You can *carefully* bend the wiper down a little while the arm is out of the pot, and it will make good contact again. Sometimes the wiper spring has fatigued and cracked just where it goes onto the edge of the insulator. Often you can clean the metal up (perhaps scraping with a knife if pot cleaner isn't good enough) and put a *small* blob of solder to reconnect it, and get the wiper more or less back to normal, or at least to functional. The shaft is riveted into the insulator disk. In this case the disk could have split, or the knurling holding it to the shaft been eaten out. A little epoxy or superglue can usually fix this problem. If it is only a little loose and nothing is broken, you can often just peen the riveted end of the shaft a little, or maybe use a prick punch and hammer to expand the rivet head a bit. Then obviously put new lube on the shaft, clean the resistive surface *gently* with a rag and pot cleaner, and put the whole thing back together. Often it will be as good as new. Of course sometimes it won't be, and then you end up replacing it.
L Wilton, I have not only repaired pots in this fashion but linear slide faders as well. One thing in your otherwise excellent comment that I will take issue with is, I would never scrape or scratch the conductive metal parts of a potentiometer or fader with a razor blade unless I needed to rough them up for gluing where they had come free from the nylon insulator that the wiper was attached to. A pencil eraser (an ink eraser containing silica or pumice is better) will polish the oxidation off of the metal parts without scratching them, leaving a smooth surface. If they're really badly oxidized, use a fiberglass-bristle "scratch brush" to clean the wiper, preferably one with a softer glass bristle (they can vary, depending where you get the refills from). The nylon disc or block that the wiper is attached to can be notoriously difficult to glue to (I use JB Weld epoxy) and so you will probably have to rough that up as well (scratch it with a dental pick, Exacto knife or miniature awl), or perhaps use the soldering iron to heat the base of the wiper assembly and push it into the plastic slightly, melting the plastic just enough to fuse the wiper base to the nylon, and than put epoxy over it. Obviously you will have to degrease all the parts thoroughly beforehand. If the nylon block or disk that the wiper is mounted to is split, you might be able to bridge the crack with a piece of wire similar to a small staple; heat it with the soldering iron and press into the plastic to bridge the gap and stabilize it. You can probably pretty much forget actually gluing the crack because nothing really sticks to nylon very well. I bought a set of scratch brushes online from Esslinger's, which sells watch and jewelry repair supplies and tools. The German made EuroTools scratch brushes, and the skinny Bergeon ones, are higher quality than the Indian-made cheapos and use refillable inserts. I also have scratch brushes with brass and steel brushes as well, but I almost never use them. It's the fiberglass scratch-brush for the win! When the little fiberglass nubs get too short to work in the handheld tool anymore, I adapt them into a battery powered artist's pencil eraser,and you can use them sort of like a Dremel tool,, for cleaning and polishing more efficiently than doing it by hand. Just one last thing: it's best to wear gloves when you're using the fiberglass scratch brush because little bits of glass fiber will break off and can embed in your fingertips, which is especially annoying if you are a working musician and have gigs within the next few days. Vacuum your workbench thoroughly after using a scratch brush, to pick up any loose bits of glass fiber that are laying around which could scratch a finish or end up in your fingers. Don't let the precautions worry you too much. These are excellent tools and everyone who works with electronics should have them. If you do get a bit of glass fiber stuck in your fingertips, you might be able to find it under high magnification and pull ot out with sticky tape or plastic tweezers; otherwise it'll come out on its own in 3 or 4 days......😖
@@goodun2974 Thanks for the reply! The case I was talking about wasn't the wiper coming off the insulator, though of course that happens, but I've seen the wiper arm itself crack right at the end of the insulator, where it curves down to contact the pot surface. I've usually seen this with wipers that are split into two thin strips, and one but not both will crack. Obviously you need solder rather than glue for that fix. Also, older pots, from the 10s thru the 60s, typically used either Bakelite or phenolic board as the insulator, not nylon or a modern plastic. These are stiffer than nylon or modern thermoplastics, and quite easy to glue to, if that is needed. The reason I mentioned scraping is that sometimes these old pots have antifungal varnish internally on the insulator, which runs down an eighth of an inch or so onto the wiper arm. You need to get this varnish off. An eraser won't do that. A fiberglass pen-brush might, but there would be a huge chance of snapping off the remaining part of the wiper from the pressure.
@@lwilton , interesting ---- I've only seen the antifungal coating on military equipment and military-surplus pots (Clarostat pots in particular). I wonder if a solvent will remove it. I've never seen a wiper-contact fold over or snap off unless something like a small screw or solder ball fell inside the pot (or somebody stuck the spray-can straw too far inside the pot), but cold-worked metal can certainly be unstable and prone to fatiguing. I have yet to try peening the end of a shaft to reattach the plastic disk; I can imagine the possibility of a bakelite disc snapping from the pressure.
@@Samalyzer45 yes and she was a dam good guitarist in here own right , I listen to how high-the moon regularly such a beautiful but strange song ! Cheers
Mary Ford had one of those lovely warm voices that lent itself perfectly to multi-tracking. Her voice also perfectly fitted the 78 recordings, never quite the same on vinyl. I always feel sad that she had problems and that she and Les split up.
Mora is Swedish and not only are they amazing, they are also very price-friendly and usable out of the box, they are sharpened properly from the factory. I’m not affiliated, just a big fan.
I think you can also hear the polarity of those Caps without a scope.. By putting your guitar cable in your amp and run it through an overdrive (pedal) and put up some drive, hold one leg of the Cap to the tip of your Jack (which you normally put in to the guitar) and hold the other leg to the (ground) sleeve. Then you reverse the Cap and the way which produces the least amount of buzz is the correct polarity! Then mark the correct ground side with a black sharpie. Try it!
Thanks Ted, been a fan of your channel for years always very informative and entertaining, I really enjoy the history and the craftsmanship you show of each instrument. Great channel, thanks again.
The way I learned to test orange drop caps was to get a spare input jack and solder alligator clamps to the ground and lead. Plug a cable into an amp and the jack. Then turn the volume up. Clamp each side of the cap to see which orientation produces the most hum. The side that makes the most noise gets marked with a black line.
Very satisfying to see what must be a pretty old repair finally getting brought to 100% some many years later. Stoked to see it all buttoned up and hear how it sounds! Cheers.
You can test the polarity of a capacitor by touching it against one of the jack plug terminals of a guitar lead plugged into an amp and your finger touching the other end of the capacitor. One way round should be a louder noise than the other way around, telling you which way around your capacitor should go. I found this out reading about repairing old tube amplifiers in portable record decks. It's a very simple but effective way of testing polarity of a capacitor, and even if one end of the capacitor is marked you can't be certain that it is that way around (mistakes get made especially in older caps)
Man dont worry about having an "upload" schedule, just upload when you can/feel like it. It would be kinda nice to have a surprise video during the week every now and then! ha. That thing is going to sound awesome when its completed.
Ted, Thank you for the awesome content for us Guitar Nerds! Your knowledge and ability to add historical facts while making repairs are beyond what most are willing to share and I can't thank you enough. People need to pursue their passion in order to live a healthly life, I have seen too many people struggle through their daily grind type jobs and never achieve personal happiness. Robert Plant was quoted as saying "If you're not happy with the type of work you are doing then stop doing it and and do something that makes you happy". Those are words of advice I have always followed. I am happy you are doing a job that makes YOU Happy! It's also good to hear in your voice that your health is doing better! I am looking forward to the next video and share your content with all my fellow guitar nerds!
Thanks for keeping us in the loop as much as you already do with your mad schedule and your unscheduled search for treasure. Good luck finding the decals even if just to satiate the OCD.
''... Snot like, in both texture and taste...'' - It's this dry sense of humour, the relaxed almost laconic voice, but above all the experience and skill that keeps me hooked to this channel. . Such a sweet little Jnr there Ted. And a very sensitive renovation methinks. Expertly executed as always.
After retiring at 65, I have saved my small repair tools and repair equipment, so I do odd repairs on local problems....just restored a martin d18..1990s..and ..my goodness..a friend brought a 1880s 7 string russian parlor guitar for restoration...mmmmm..so cute..v neck and in wonderful preservation...I still have varnish..spirit with ethanol..sandarac and mastic etc...the varnish is called 1704...that I cooked a decade ago...thanks for the nostalgic memories..you do a good job sir..thanks
In the Hammond Organ circles... stuffing new caps into multi-cap cans on Leslies, etc has been the norm time immemorial (at least 1995 when I started my path). People were going to try it when recapping the tonewheel generators, but moderate success (a LOT of caps). It's not deceptive but to the eye... so long as the next buyer knows it was to keep the charm/look/etc.
❤ TW, i really enjoy and gain education from your videos and commentary. I would certainly say you're a bit of a gem. I love the raunchy sound of that Junior😂
Talking about starting on a solid body electric, I started with an arch top f-hole Silvertone with coat hanger Guage Black Diamond strings 1/4 inch off neck. I was youngest of 4, sister oldest. I wanted that Silvertone (Dano) guitar with amp built into case, getting it for 8th birthday. Big day arrived, I'm sick in bed. I heard a LOUD guitar in living room. Brother playing a Fender guitar into Fender amp. Thats about right, he gets something for himself, I get nothing. Went back to bed. About an hour passed, brother came to get me, don't I want to play MY NEW GUITAR AND AMP? Eggshell white Duo Sonic 2 and Fender Vibro Champ amp. What she bought for me was light years better than what I expected, I felt cheated because I didn't get what I really wanted. When I saw what she paid, it irked me because I could have gotten that Gretsch or Vox guitar I'd been drooling over and that Gibson Reverb Rocket Amp for less money. So, I was doubly disappointed. How fickle is THAT???
I seem to remember seeing Leslie West playing one of these when Mountain was on their first tour and they came through Memphis. Mississippi Queen hadn't been out long. Man he got a huge sound out of that guitar.
You remind me a bit of a gunsmith I used to watch on youtube. He was often on C&Rsenal and an amazing talent. Old Gibson guitars aren’t quite as complex as old Webley revolvers, but the challenge, problem solving, and hand working is very similar. It was a treat to watch your vid. I was a bit let down when I couldn’t find part two, but since it is free entertainment, I ain’t complaining. It sure would be nice to see and hear it after your care. Thanks again!
These caps have no shielding per se; instead, they are comprised of a rolled-up strip of conductive foil. One lead is connected to the inside end of the roll, and the other lead is connected to the outside end of the roll. The black band is marked OUTSIDE FOIL to show which lead is the outside connection. This is the lead that connects to ground.
I'm only a novice guitar builder and i dont have the mindset that you do for details on the historic side of things but, I really like your monologues and appreciate your videos. Thank you so much for your knowledge and work.
I bought a 59 single cut Les Paul Junior over the weekend and it changed my wife 😅 What a fantastic instrument. I sold a couple of guitars to help finance the purchase and have no regrets whatsoever. What I noticed, since it's a player grade guitar, is the fact that I wasn't at all stressed about getting any dings or dongs on it since it had its fair of scuffs & scratches already. I have a couple of other guitars laying around which I play on and off so I've decided to sell these and purchase a boutique or high-end used guitar thus reducing my six-string collection to 2-3 max. I prefer to have two great cars in the garage rather than 5-6 which are mediocre... and still need maintenance etc. Love your channel, Ted.
I replaced my '56 tailpiece with a Music City Bridge. They solved the intonation issues. It looks vintage. Just some information. Thank you for sharing and making my day a little more pleasant.
Continually amazed at the depth of knowledge here. The timeline of the Lennon/Junior story is a prime example. That's what makes this place and Ted himself so valuable. Where else are you going to get that kind of thing, all while meticulously and thoughtfully doing the work that pays the bills? There are a lot of guitar oriented channels I like, but this one is the one I look forward to no matter the content. Thanks Ted!
Great video.Thank you for that. The inside information about this guitar is wonderfull to see. I am a new subscriber and hope to see many many more of this stuff. Greetings from the Netherlands. My name is Bert. Bye for now.
The original peghead would have had glued on wings, and not be one piece, like the replaced piece. Plus the face would have been painted black, unlike the higher grade Les Paul's,which had a veneer over the face of the peghead. I'm refinishing my 56 Les Paul Junior currently, which had the finish stripped in the past, l am attempting a TV White finish.
I had a '62 LP Jr. and it was amazing! The tone knob could "wah"! I kid you not! Of course it had the SG style body, razor thin neck and I miss that guitar dearly. I bought it from a pawnshop in the mid 80's with the original case, a Leo Quan badass bridge, Schaller tuners for $190. Excellent video man! Peace
The juniors all look like prototypes to me and they play great I built a 1959 Les Paul junior parts guitar from a Maestro Guitar with a Heritage Cherry burst finished in Polyurethane. The husk is solid Basswood and the neck was replaced with a mahogany neck that is a replacement for a IBANEZ acoustic guitar AND THIS GUITAR HAS NO FINISH ON THE MAHOGANY NECK WITH ORIGINAL VINTAGE KLUSONS. The humbucker was replaced with a Wilkerson P-90 this guitar SCREAMS GOOD TONES!
I work on Tube amps and radios, just so you know that grey tiger (or any old paper and wax cap) can be heated and the guts pulled out from the side. You can than slide the new cap in and use wax to seal the ends. Next you can disassemble and repair those pots and older pots in general, I have fixed non-working pots many times and only failed a couple times. They are very simple devices.
Another fine effort. I'm more of an amp guy, but dabble in guitar work, and often tune in to see what you are up to. If you want to check out I guess a similar vibe in the amp world, Uncle Doug is fastidious, inventive and funny too. He has taken rebuilding old caps to an art form. Thanks for posting, always a pleasure to watch
There's a good thread on the TDPRI on how to make your own capacitor tester to determine outside foil on caps that are unmarked. It's a passive device that uses a Telecaster 3-way switch. Some caps are improperly marked!
Gutting old capacitors and replacing the innards with new ones is a common practice in the restoration of old tube radios, as well. People go to significant lengths to keep original appearances.
Beautiful work and your level of arcane knowledge never ceases to impress! Thank-you
How many of us picked up on the “snot like in both texture and taste” line. Pure gold. Ted, we really do pay attention to every word.😊
The best part is how he doesn't oversell it, it just comes out in his usual calm, seemingly completely sane tone.
... and taste???
Did Ted actually test that?
@@alansturgess1324 not likely, but just checking to see if we pay attention :-)
Yep. Caught it and chuckled.
@@footnotedrummer maybe its the sleep depravation but I had a full body belly jiggling laugh over that his comment
My mom bought me a Gibson Firebird as my first guitar in 1965. What a mom. I wish I had taken my lessons more seriously.
For me these videos are better than anything on television.
I love the way you try to retain as much original, but you have your limit and always make functionality the primary factor 👍
The name of the knife «Sløyd» is the swedish/norwegian name of the woodworking classes in school….and yes, you’ll find a mora-knife in every toolbox in scandinavia. Thanks for sharing the great work
Slöjd i Swedish.
I bought a pair of Mora knives after seeing them on this channel; they are the sharpest blades I’ve ever used. Feel great in the hand as well.
Danish, too. "Sløjd".
slots involved woodworking, yes, but papermodeling and cardboard modeling as well. Students began as paper, progressed to cardboard and then to wood and eventually sheet metal. It was to teach exacting standards of eye-hand coordination from very young ages. The Charlotte Mason method of homeschool and cottage schools have revived its use and these knives have been used with paper and cardboard as well as wood.
I inherited one of those knives from a friend's father who passed away. They are pretty handy, but not shaped like anything a typical American woodworker sees.
Dear lord, it’s a long video, so happy! 🙏🏻
I have a ‘56 I got back in 1975 or so while doing slave labor for a neighbor to atone for a broken window. Think Gran Torino. That eventually led to a ‘52 Les Paul gold top. No kidding but it’s a long story. I still have both and the circumstances make them priceless to me.
Add Leslie West to Lennon and Marley on the list of LP Jr. players. He got INCREDIBLE tones out of these great guitars.
Hard to beat Leslie.
True, but Leslie was a God.
Also: Keith Richards. "Midnight Rambler" with capo on 7th fret... ;)
@B WJ Steve Marriott
Didn't Billy Gibbons also play a Les Paul junior?
The video of Lennon and Berry is the one that Yoko's mic is muted by the sound engineer lol
That is fantastic branding on that capacitor. Well played soZo. Well played.
Thanks for explaining the particulars about that.
It probably would not have been worth the effort, but it is often possible to recover pots like that one. You can carefully pry up the tabs holding the back in place and remove the back. This lets you get in to really clean the thing. You can also pop the C ring off the shaft, and once the ring and back are removed, you can drop the whole shaft and insulator disk with the wiper contacts out the back of the pot. This lets you run a brush thru the shaft hole with some solvent, and wipe the shaft bearing area clean with a rag and some solvent.
Sometimes the wiper has has become weak and has lifted, at least partially, from contact with the resistive track. You can *carefully* bend the wiper down a little while the arm is out of the pot, and it will make good contact again. Sometimes the wiper spring has fatigued and cracked just where it goes onto the edge of the insulator. Often you can clean the metal up (perhaps scraping with a knife if pot cleaner isn't good enough) and put a *small* blob of solder to reconnect it, and get the wiper more or less back to normal, or at least to functional.
The shaft is riveted into the insulator disk. In this case the disk could have split, or the knurling holding it to the shaft been eaten out. A little epoxy or superglue can usually fix this problem. If it is only a little loose and nothing is broken, you can often just peen the riveted end of the shaft a little, or maybe use a prick punch and hammer to expand the rivet head a bit. Then obviously put new lube on the shaft, clean the resistive surface *gently* with a rag and pot cleaner, and put the whole thing back together.
Often it will be as good as new. Of course sometimes it won't be, and then you end up replacing it.
Great explanation there thanks! It made me check your channel for any videos, did you ever consider doing some you sound like a good teacher like Ted.
L Wilton, I have not only repaired pots in this fashion but linear slide faders as well. One thing in your otherwise excellent comment that I will take issue with is, I would never scrape or scratch the conductive metal parts of a potentiometer or fader with a razor blade unless I needed to rough them up for gluing where they had come free from the nylon insulator that the wiper was attached to. A pencil eraser (an ink eraser containing silica or pumice is better) will polish the oxidation off of the metal parts without scratching them, leaving a smooth surface. If they're really badly oxidized, use a fiberglass-bristle "scratch brush" to clean the wiper, preferably one with a softer glass bristle (they can vary, depending where you get the refills from). The nylon disc or block that the wiper is attached to can be notoriously difficult to glue to (I use JB Weld epoxy) and so you will probably have to rough that up as well (scratch it with a dental pick, Exacto knife or miniature awl), or perhaps use the soldering iron to heat the base of the wiper assembly and push it into the plastic slightly, melting the plastic just enough to fuse the wiper base to the nylon, and than put epoxy over it. Obviously you will have to degrease all the parts thoroughly beforehand.
If the nylon block or disk that the wiper is mounted to is split, you might be able to bridge the crack with a piece of wire similar to a small staple; heat it with the soldering iron and press into the plastic to bridge the gap and stabilize it. You can probably pretty much forget actually gluing the crack because nothing really sticks to nylon very well.
I bought a set of scratch brushes online from Esslinger's, which sells watch and jewelry repair supplies and tools. The German made EuroTools scratch brushes, and the skinny Bergeon ones, are higher quality than the Indian-made cheapos and use refillable inserts. I also have scratch brushes with brass and steel brushes as well, but I almost never use them. It's the fiberglass scratch-brush for the win! When the little fiberglass nubs get too short to work in the handheld tool anymore, I adapt them into a battery powered artist's pencil eraser,and you can use them sort of like a Dremel tool,, for cleaning and polishing more efficiently than doing it by hand. Just one last thing: it's best to wear gloves when you're using the fiberglass scratch brush because little bits of glass fiber will break off and can embed in your fingertips, which is especially annoying if you are a working musician and have gigs within the next few days. Vacuum your workbench thoroughly after using a scratch brush, to pick up any loose bits of glass fiber that are laying around which could scratch a finish or end up in your fingers. Don't let the precautions worry you too much. These are excellent tools and everyone who works with electronics should have them. If you do get a bit of glass fiber stuck in your fingertips, you might be able to find it under high magnification and pull ot out with sticky tape or plastic tweezers; otherwise it'll come out on its own in 3 or 4 days......😖
@@goodun2974 Thanks for the reply! The case I was talking about wasn't the wiper coming off the insulator, though of course that happens, but I've seen the wiper arm itself crack right at the end of the insulator, where it curves down to contact the pot surface. I've usually seen this with wipers that are split into two thin strips, and one but not both will crack. Obviously you need solder rather than glue for that fix.
Also, older pots, from the 10s thru the 60s, typically used either Bakelite or phenolic board as the insulator, not nylon or a modern plastic. These are stiffer than nylon or modern thermoplastics, and quite easy to glue to, if that is needed. The reason I mentioned scraping is that sometimes these old pots have antifungal varnish internally on the insulator, which runs down an eighth of an inch or so onto the wiper arm. You need to get this varnish off. An eraser won't do that. A fiberglass pen-brush might, but there would be a huge chance of snapping off the remaining part of the wiper from the pressure.
@@lwilton , interesting ---- I've only seen the antifungal coating on military equipment and military-surplus pots (Clarostat pots in particular). I wonder if a solvent will remove it. I've never seen a wiper-contact fold over or snap off unless something like a small screw or solder ball fell inside the pot (or somebody stuck the spray-can straw too far inside the pot), but cold-worked metal can certainly be unstable and prone to fatiguing. I have yet to try peening the end of a shaft to reattach the plastic disk; I can imagine the possibility of a bakelite disc snapping from the pressure.
@@lwilton ps, we both need to post some videos......
.
The moment I saw the title of this video i knew that “this is special” joke was coming))
As a retired luthier, of 30yrs working around the world, I love watching you..and comment just before you express an informed judgment, thankyou.
“Old adhesive was yellow and rubbery, snot like in texture and taste” lol😂😂 another great video man!
I sincerely hope your health issues are not serious! Take care of yourself so that we can learn from for a long time to come!
Love love love the ol' "Superglue on the headstock overlay" trick. Exemplary production sir!
People forget that Les Paul and Mary sold a mountain of records and were huge. They had a TV show and everything.
And that, of course, is Mary Ford, her performing name.
Making a million a year back then.
@@Samalyzer45 yes and she was a dam good guitarist in here own right , I listen to how high-the moon regularly such a beautiful but strange song ! Cheers
Not sure about ppl forgetting that, if you're in to guitars it's pretty well know.
Mary Ford had one of those lovely warm voices that lent itself perfectly to multi-tracking. Her voice also perfectly fitted the 78 recordings, never quite the same on vinyl. I always feel sad that she had problems and that she and Les split up.
I believe that concert you’re talking about is the one where they cut Yokos mic because she was just wailing into it for no reason
Mora is Swedish and not only are they amazing, they are also very price-friendly and usable out of the box, they are sharpened properly from the factory. I’m not affiliated, just a big fan.
I've watched many of your videos, to me this was a serious wow repair, as I'm into these juniors.Thank you
This video came perfectly on time, I've been having a pretty shitty day. Thank you!
Oooh, a "part one". This is going to be interesting!
You rock Ted! Glad you still got us caught up considering your schedule. Always enjoy watching you work and the outcomes in the end.
I think you can also hear the polarity of those Caps without a scope.. By putting your guitar cable in your amp and run it through an overdrive (pedal) and put up some drive, hold one leg of the Cap to the tip of your Jack (which you normally put in to the guitar) and hold the other leg to the (ground) sleeve. Then you reverse the Cap and the way which produces the least amount of buzz is the correct polarity! Then mark the correct ground side with a black sharpie.
Try it!
Thanks Ted, been a fan of your channel for years always very informative and entertaining, I really enjoy the history and the craftsmanship you show of each instrument. Great channel, thanks again.
The way I learned to test orange drop caps was to get a spare input jack and solder alligator clamps to the ground and lead. Plug a cable into an amp and the jack. Then turn the volume up. Clamp each side of the cap to see which orientation produces the most hum. The side that makes the most noise gets marked with a black line.
Very satisfying to see what must be a pretty old repair finally getting brought to 100% some many years later. Stoked to see it all buttoned up and hear how it sounds! Cheers.
Glad to see you back after a couple weeks. Love watching you work on projects like this.
You can test the polarity of a capacitor by touching it against one of the jack plug terminals of a guitar lead plugged into an amp and your finger touching the other end of the capacitor. One way round should be a louder noise than the other way around, telling you which way around your capacitor should go. I found this out reading about repairing old tube amplifiers in portable record decks. It's a very simple but effective way of testing polarity of a capacitor, and even if one end of the capacitor is marked you can't be certain that it is that way around (mistakes get made especially in older caps)
Man dont worry about having an "upload" schedule, just upload when you can/feel like it. It would be kinda nice to have a surprise video during the week every now and then! ha. That thing is going to sound awesome when its completed.
P-90's are just so nice and open, rollem back a touch gives em that nice airy flavor. Love it!
cheers!
A stunning craftsman the best I've ever seen!
Ted, Thank you for the awesome content for us Guitar Nerds! Your knowledge and ability to add historical facts while making repairs are beyond what most are willing to share and I can't thank you enough. People need to pursue their passion in order to live a healthly life, I have seen too many people struggle through their daily grind type jobs and never achieve personal happiness. Robert Plant was quoted as saying "If you're not happy with the type of work you are doing then stop doing it and and do something that makes you happy". Those are words of advice I have always followed. I am happy you are doing a job that makes YOU Happy! It's also good to hear in your voice that your health is doing better! I am looking forward to the next video and share your content with all my fellow guitar nerds!
This guy is awsome. I love thee wealth of knowledge he has obtained
Thanks for keeping us in the loop as much as you already do with your mad schedule and your unscheduled search for treasure. Good luck finding the decals even if just to satiate the OCD.
''... Snot like, in both texture and taste...'' - It's this dry sense of humour, the relaxed almost laconic voice, but above all the experience and
skill that keeps me hooked to this channel.
.
Such a sweet little Jnr there Ted. And a very sensitive renovation methinks. Expertly executed as always.
He got me w that one. Lol
11:44. "kept pulling but it never got shorter on this side". Made me chuckle.😆
After retiring at 65, I have saved my small repair tools and repair equipment, so I do odd repairs on local problems....just restored a martin d18..1990s..and ..my goodness..a friend brought a 1880s 7 string russian parlor guitar for restoration...mmmmm..so cute..v neck and in wonderful preservation...I still have varnish..spirit with ethanol..sandarac and mastic etc...the varnish is called 1704...that I cooked a decade ago...thanks for the nostalgic memories..you do a good job sir..thanks
Great episode! Nice to hear your 2cent on pots and resistors!! More please!!
I hope you’re ok. And if not I hope you get well soon! 😊 I appreciate listening to you. I learn, thank you!
Due I'm 65 and time with the quality of your work I can wait too! You rock, because it's fun for me.
Uncle Doug does the same thing with filter caps in amps.
Oh the wonders of old guitars..
Bell has been wrung. Look forward to the next installment. Always do.
Thanks for watching and commenting Send a direct message right away I got some special package for you✅.......
Leslie West, Johnny Thunders, Rick Richards, Keith Richards... all played Juniors with great effect 🤩
Great work and take care of yourself first, you can't repair anything if you're not well. All the best!!
Having ordered the replacement set, the original set will reappear. That’s how *we* find things we’ve lost. 😄
And normally within a few days.
In the Hammond Organ circles... stuffing new caps into multi-cap cans on Leslies, etc has been the norm time immemorial (at least 1995 when I started my path). People were going to try it when recapping the tonewheel generators, but moderate success (a LOT of caps). It's not deceptive but to the eye... so long as the next buyer knows it was to keep the charm/look/etc.
Really nice to see a new video, thank you. Take care of yourself and I’ll look forward to the second part! 👍🏼🎸
Thanks for watching and commenting Send a direct message right away I got some special package for you✅......
Great work as always. I really enjoy your videos. I hope you get feeling better quick.
Looking forward patiently to the next installment. Thanks so much for sharing your work with us.
Great instruments and fairly versatile. Leslie West loved them and made them sound fantastic.
So glad I found your channel, your work is outstanding.
All of Ted's videos are captivating , informative , rated #1 in luthery videos IMO
Thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience and sensibleness!! 🙂
❤ TW, i really enjoy and gain education from your videos and commentary. I would certainly say you're a bit of a gem. I love the raunchy sound of that Junior😂
Talking about starting on a solid body electric, I started with an arch top f-hole Silvertone with coat hanger Guage Black Diamond strings 1/4 inch off neck. I was youngest of 4, sister oldest. I wanted that Silvertone (Dano) guitar with amp built into case, getting it for 8th birthday. Big day arrived, I'm sick in bed. I heard a LOUD guitar in living room. Brother playing a Fender guitar into Fender amp. Thats about right, he gets something for himself, I get nothing. Went back to bed. About an hour passed, brother came to get me, don't I want to play MY NEW GUITAR AND AMP? Eggshell white Duo Sonic 2 and Fender Vibro Champ amp. What she bought for me was light years better than what I expected, I felt cheated because I didn't get what I really wanted. When I saw what she paid, it irked me because I could have gotten that Gretsch or Vox guitar I'd been drooling over and that Gibson Reverb Rocket Amp for less money. So, I was doubly disappointed. How fickle is THAT???
I seem to remember seeing Leslie West playing one of these when Mountain was on their first tour and they came through Memphis. Mississippi Queen hadn't been out long. Man he got a huge sound out of that guitar.
SCAM ! Do not contact this person.
You remind me a bit of a gunsmith I used to watch on youtube. He was often on C&Rsenal and an amazing talent. Old Gibson guitars aren’t quite as complex as old Webley revolvers, but the challenge, problem solving, and hand working is very similar. It was a treat to watch your vid. I was a bit let down when I couldn’t find part two, but since it is free entertainment, I ain’t complaining. It sure would be nice to see and hear it after your care. Thanks again!
Sir your videos are always worth the wait.
Thanks for watching and commenting Send a direct message right away I got some special package for you✅.......
Nice to have you back! Great work!
Thanks for watching and commenting Send a direct message right away I got some special package for you✅.....
Look at that fretboard wear. That guitar was played!! I love seeing that in a guitar
Tightened up to the point of fear.fantastic ted.
Reusing the grey tiger casing is amazing lol. Great video as always!
What a fantastic tone that guitar has. Thanks for the great video.
Hey Ted, we're glad that you were able to press your drill press into service!
Always excited to see a new video from you! A fan from TX
Interesting project...can't wait to see and hear it when it's completed!
These caps have no shielding per se; instead, they are comprised of a rolled-up strip of conductive foil. One lead is connected to the inside end of the roll, and the other lead is connected to the outside end of the roll. The black band is marked OUTSIDE FOIL to show which lead is the outside connection. This is the lead that connects to ground.
I'm only a novice guitar builder and i dont have the mindset that you do for details on the historic side of things but, I really like your monologues and appreciate your videos. Thank you so much for your knowledge and work.
Thanks Ted! I appreciate you sharing your adventures.
I bought a 59 single cut Les Paul Junior over the weekend and it changed my wife 😅 What a fantastic instrument. I sold a couple of guitars to help finance the purchase and have no regrets whatsoever. What I noticed, since it's a player grade guitar, is the fact that I wasn't at all stressed about getting any dings or dongs on it since it had its fair of scuffs & scratches already. I have a couple of other guitars laying around which I play on and off so I've decided to sell these and purchase a boutique or high-end used guitar thus reducing my six-string collection to 2-3 max. I prefer to have two great cars in the garage rather than 5-6 which are mediocre... and still need maintenance etc. Love your channel, Ted.
Excellent video, great commentary, and just plain fun to watch you work. Cool stuff man from a fellow guitar builder and repair guy.
I replaced my '56 tailpiece with a Music City Bridge. They solved the intonation issues. It looks vintage. Just some information. Thank you for sharing and making my day a little more pleasant.
Loved this video. Looking forward to part 2.
Thanks for watching and commenting Send a direct message right away I got some special package for you✅.......
Continually amazed at the depth of knowledge here. The timeline of the Lennon/Junior story is a prime example. That's what makes this place and Ted himself so valuable. Where else are you going to get that kind of thing, all while meticulously and thoughtfully doing the work that pays the bills? There are a lot of guitar oriented channels I like, but this one is the one I look forward to no matter the content. Thanks Ted!
“ascertain with an oscilloscope”😮………….beautiful. Your eloquence is much appreciated by us schleps feeding down here near the bottom.
Best I've ever seen or heard brother,
I own mostly player grade guitars and being on a low budget have done most work Myself. Your videos have improved My work and maintaining them.
I like the direction that this one is heading! As someone who is involved in antique boats there is nothing I like better than mahogany.
Great video.Thank you for that. The inside information about this guitar is wonderfull to see. I am a new subscriber and hope to see many many more of this stuff. Greetings from the Netherlands. My name is Bert. Bye for now.
Thanks again for sharing, looking forward for part 2. I hope your health is getting better now. Take care.
The original peghead would have had glued on wings, and not be one piece, like the replaced piece. Plus the face would have been painted black, unlike the higher grade Les Paul's,which had a veneer over the face of the peghead. I'm refinishing my 56 Les Paul Junior currently, which had the finish stripped in the past, l am attempting a TV White finish.
The head is an obvious kludge handmade fix, but it is at least adequate
Love a project like this!
And the way you have covered your work is great.
My 90’s Tak appreciates the love… ☺️😅☺️
I can't fail to be impressed with how you slice through the neck's wood with that knife. What a tool. Nice work.
the change in microphone/settings at 31:33 did something to my soul
I had a '62 LP Jr. and it was amazing!
The tone knob could "wah"! I kid you not!
Of course it had the SG style body, razor thin neck and I miss that guitar dearly. I bought it from a pawnshop in the mid 80's with the original case, a Leo Quan badass bridge, Schaller tuners for $190.
Excellent video man!
Peace
The juniors all look like prototypes to me and they play great I built a 1959 Les Paul junior parts guitar from a Maestro Guitar with a Heritage Cherry burst finished in Polyurethane. The husk is solid Basswood and the neck was replaced with a mahogany neck that is a replacement for a IBANEZ acoustic guitar AND THIS GUITAR HAS NO FINISH ON THE MAHOGANY NECK WITH ORIGINAL VINTAGE KLUSONS. The humbucker was replaced with a Wilkerson P-90 this guitar SCREAMS GOOD TONES!
Best 37 minutes of my day. What an cryptoarchiological specimen
of gitfiddle history. Thanks for the video!
Serious craftsmanship and erudition go well together, Your niche is secure.
I work on Tube amps and radios, just so you know that grey tiger (or any old paper and wax cap) can be heated and the guts pulled out from the side. You can than slide the new cap in and use wax to seal the ends. Next you can disassemble and repair those pots and older pots in general, I have fixed non-working pots many times and only failed a couple times. They are very simple devices.
Looking forward to the next show, never a dull moment... 🤔
This is so cool. I learn something new every video. I had no idea that capacitors were directional. - Thanks for the great content.
Thanks for doing a fantastic job Ted! Look forward to having this one home and plugged into my ‘53 Kay
Another fine effort. I'm more of an amp guy, but dabble in guitar work, and often tune in to see what you are up to. If you want to check out I guess a similar vibe in the amp world, Uncle Doug is fastidious, inventive and funny too. He has taken rebuilding old caps to an art form. Thanks for posting, always a pleasure to watch
There's a good thread on the TDPRI on how to make your own capacitor tester to determine outside foil on caps that are unmarked. It's a passive device that uses a Telecaster 3-way switch. Some caps are improperly marked!
Waiting for the Morris! Thanks for your videos.
Thanks for watching and commenting Send a direct message right away I got some special package for you✅........
Gutting old capacitors and replacing the innards with new ones is a common practice in the restoration of old tube radios, as well. People go to significant lengths to keep original appearances.