@@Equip2Endure Yes, its quite comfortable overall. However, at first you'll have to get used to that bump, as it obviously is different from the usual, conventional designs. At first it feels, lets say somewhat awkward. After a while, I realized it feels natural, ergonomic and I'd rather have it, than not. But its not a game changer. About hotspots, I guess it always depends on the size of the hand. For hands with medium sized palms and medium length, plus thin fingers, like mine, it's close to ideal. So no hotspots. Also, the finish on the birch is neither gloss nor matt. So, the handle is not slippery with naked and fairly sweaty hands and also not abrasive with naked dry ones. Many say, the correct thickness of a bushcraft scandi blade is 3mm maximum and this one's 4mmm. They say that the thicker the blade, the more abrupt the angle of the scandi grind is and the thicker the blade is behind the edge. Thus resulting to control issues and less performance, in let's say wood biting tasks. May be, less strenth of the edge itself, too. Especialy with crosswise, material removing tasks, there's a risk of bad chipping. I understand all that and theoretically I agree. It surely makes sense. Practically though, I have no say in this debate, as I don't have a 3mm one. All I can say, is that it doesn't feel cumbersome, as it processes soft and medium hardness wood, easily. Notches, whittling, fine work etc are a joy and had no problems with edge retention, strength and precision work. Used it about a dozen times so far, quite extensively and mostly on wood, during day long hikes and stropped it just twice. TBH, just for the sake of it. No problems with rust, but I tend to clean it often with a cloth, regardless of it being stainless. That fingerguard is also deep enough to feel safe. Quite a few scandi knives are not like that and for an average experience guy, like me, that is a necessity. Better safe, than sorry.
@@Equip2Endure Thanks for finding it useful. I modified my post a bit, in order to be more precise and added a couple more things, I left out. Take care!
Me when I see this in my feed: "Not another knife vid.... 😳 Do they sell that on Amazon?" Another good one Rusty. Short, sweet, hit the necessary points. Might need to check out a Casstrom myself. -J
Yes, I have a Lars Falt and 3 number 10s which is the one the guy in this video liked. The number 10 is my favourite hence why I bought 3 of them. I have one in sleipner, one in 14c28n and one in A8 Mod. As far as I can tell the steels all perform similarly well so for balance I would recommend the 14c28n because it’s fully stainless as well as being tough, easy to sharpen and it takes a razor edge. I think the no.10 is the best bushcraft knife you can buy without going to a custom maker. Even then I would bet the number 10 is better than most customs because of the handle.
I have the 10 in Sandvik. Great blade and as underlined, great handle
Does it stay comfortable after prolonged use? Any hotspots? Does that curve in the handle improve its usability in your experience? -Rusty
@@Equip2Endure Yes, its quite comfortable overall. However, at first you'll have to get used to that bump, as it obviously is different from the usual, conventional designs. At first it feels, lets say somewhat awkward. After a while, I realized it feels natural, ergonomic and I'd rather have it, than not. But its not a game changer. About hotspots, I guess it always depends on the size of the hand. For hands with medium sized palms and medium length, plus thin fingers, like mine, it's close to ideal. So no hotspots. Also, the finish on the birch is neither gloss nor matt. So, the handle is not slippery with naked and fairly sweaty hands and also not abrasive with naked dry ones.
Many say, the correct thickness of a bushcraft scandi blade is 3mm maximum and this one's 4mmm. They say that the thicker the blade, the more abrupt the angle of the scandi grind is and the thicker the blade is behind the edge. Thus resulting to control issues and less performance, in let's say wood biting tasks. May be, less strenth of the edge itself, too. Especialy with crosswise, material removing tasks, there's a risk of bad chipping. I understand all that and theoretically I agree. It surely makes sense. Practically though, I have no say in this debate, as I don't have a 3mm one. All I can say, is that it doesn't feel cumbersome, as it processes soft and medium hardness wood, easily. Notches, whittling, fine work etc are a joy and had no problems with edge retention, strength and precision work.
Used it about a dozen times so far, quite extensively and mostly on wood, during day long hikes and stropped it just twice. TBH, just for the sake of it. No problems with rust, but I tend to clean it often with a cloth, regardless of it being stainless. That fingerguard is also deep enough to feel safe. Quite a few scandi knives are not like that and for an average experience guy, like me, that is a necessity. Better safe, than sorry.
@@Yiannis2112 Fantastic input, Yiannis!
@@Equip2Endure Thanks for finding it useful. I modified my post a bit, in order to be more precise and added a couple more things, I left out. Take care!
Me when I see this in my feed: "Not another knife vid.... 😳 Do they sell that on Amazon?" Another good one Rusty. Short, sweet, hit the necessary points. Might need to check out a Casstrom myself. -J
Ha! I know the feeling. Thanks for watching and sounding off, J! -Rusty
I've got the 'safari mini hunter' and the 'woodsman' and they are awsome👍
My e5ee (esee 5) is too big and clumsy for bc(my opinion)🥴
Very cool. What do you specifically like about the safari and woodsman?
Anyone have experience out in the field with a Casström Knife?
Yes, I have a Lars Falt and 3 number 10s which is the one the guy in this video liked. The number 10 is my favourite hence why I bought 3 of them. I have one in sleipner, one in 14c28n and one in A8 Mod. As far as I can tell the steels all perform similarly well so for balance I would recommend the 14c28n because it’s fully stainless as well as being tough, easy to sharpen and it takes a razor edge. I think the no.10 is the best bushcraft knife you can buy without going to a custom maker. Even then I would bet the number 10 is better than most customs because of the handle.