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Upgraded router sled rails and a new flattening bit! / How to flatten a slab
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- Опубліковано 3 сер 2024
- In this video I go over how I made some better router sled rails and feature a new bit!
Use the code WALKER15 to get 15% off anything at bitsbits.com/
Flattening bit used in the video - bitsbits.com/index.php?main_p...
Check out my website for Woodworking plans, Tools I use, Merch and MORE! - www.walkersww.com/
Router sled video - • How to make a DIY Rout...
Gearheart Industry Branding Iron - www.gearheartindustry.com/
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Pony Jorgensen E-Z Hold clamps - amzn.to/2FW07YI
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Kreg jig - amzn.to/3agy0Sc
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Great video, made this sled and just attached some 2x4 to cap the ends to keep the mess enclosed on the table hope that helps. Thanks
I really like how you show step by step. Many how to videos don’t do this. I am a new subscriber because of this. Well done.
Thanks! That's my goal. I don't know everything but I like to share Wht I have learned. 😁 stay tuned for more vids!
Made one today. Worked great. Thanks for the idea on this, it’s definitely something i will use a lot.
Glad to hear!
Hey! I used the last router sled video to make my own, and it's worked great! Been reducing the thickness of a guitar body blank. I thought while doing it "it'd be a lot faster if my sled was on rails" - may have to follow this video too to upgrade my sled! Really helpful videos :)
Haha do it! Glad it helps.
Great video. Just did this with a 65" x 24" Oak slab a few days ago. My router is quite small (Festool OF1010) and all I had was a 10mm (about 3/8") plan bit. It worked great but did take several passes and a few hours. My router is quite small but I do plan to use a 35mm planning bit for my next project. Longer term I am getting the Makita RP2300 (2300watt) router with 60mm planning bit.
Great modification of the pocket hole jig.
This is exactly what I was looking for. Thanks for pointing me to it @Walkers Woodworks.
Glad it helped!
Well worth watching this on rail construction. Thanks, I’ll defo apply your techniques when I make my router sledge. 👍
Awesome! Glad it helped!
Badass man.
Great video. Ill be making this sled this weekend🤘👍
Just finished a river resin slab. Messy is a given. I need to source a extraction as I go solution to reduce
Great videos and perfect timing as I just got some rough cut walnut slabs. They are small and I don't have a planer. The router jig is the perfect answer to my initial flattening delema. Going to be interesting securing my slabs though. Thanks for some great ideas.
Awesome! Good luck!
Simple yet effective, that bit is a beast too! Subscribed!
Thanks!! The bit is definitely awesome!
I just watched all of your videos and they are great man! You got a new subscriber!
That's awesome! Thank you!
very good your work this feedback you spread well congratulations god bless you always
Yeah buddy! Appreciate the short n' sweet style of your videos. Just what I need without a lot of extra unnecessary crap
Appreciate you watching!
My outfeed table is similar to this. I just ordered a bunch of T Track which will be laid out similar to yours except I'm going to space the long runs a bit farther apart. Personal preference. I'm also going to build pretty much the same sled design except I'll have slots cut into the rail bases so I can use the T Track to secure them!
Awesome!
I just bought the same bit just a couple weeks ago, it is a beast!
Ty OT Woodworks yes it is!
When I looked it up, the bit is supposed to be for a cnc machine, is that correct? Can I use it in a regular router?
Ha ha that is the first time I ever saw a chainsaw used in anger while wearing chinos :) (subbed btw)
Genial idea!!! Muchas Gracias!!!
I primarily flatten edge grain cutting boards. I built a combination juice groove and flattening jig. I use the long rails screwed to a 30" x 30" piece of 3/4 plywood and move them where I need them to be and simply screw them in place. The inner bottom edge sets back the juice groove and also serves to space the board when flattening. So I just set the board in place and move the long inner edge right up against the board use the short edge to hold the board. It works great and saves space as I just drill a hole in a corner and hang it on the wall.
That sounds like a great Idea!
thanks man i watched both and was able to easily make my own, i didn't have pocket hole jig so i just countersunk all my screws. flattened my first project today. a warped top for a small cart. i was going to post a pic but i don't see how.
That's awesome!
Tag me on Instagram if you have it. @walkers_woodworks
I like the work table and will be making your jig. I really need a large work table like that which can be leveled. Thanks for the vid.
I have a video and plans for it as well. Not sure if you saw it or not. ua-cam.com/video/zypKO3ZORWI/v-deo.html
Perfect. Thanks so much.
Great video man! Thank you 🙏🏽
Thank you!
Nice job. Thanks for the video.
Thanks for watching!
So long as your side rails are all true and you work out plunge depths IE max and min you could flip your side rails when you want to go lower, using the narrower rail as the upright, by doing this you can use the sled for a larger variety of thickness.
Not a bad idea. Side rails with two height options.
Good tip. Alternatively it’s not a little bit of effort to throw another slab under the piece you’re working with
Beautiful slab man👍🏼💥👊🏻
Thanks!
Nice video. Suggestion, make the inside rails adjustable so as you take material off you can lower the jig to the slab. They may have to start out a little shorter to begin with but should work. Just a thought.
Ya I do want to do that for sure. Thanks!
Thanks, will give this a try
Awesome. 👍
I just built this thing soup to nuts but a different size and I didn't have a pocket hole driller so i used counter sink deck screws and they worked great. This is a great video.
Whatever works! That's awesome. Glad you enjoyed the video.
@@WalkersWoodworks I'm definitely an amateur but sure having fun. Cant wait to watch more of yoir videos!
@@WalkersWoodworks question. I have a Bosch 1617EVS with the plunger all the way down, the bit doesnt clear the sled. Even on the regular base it barely clears the sled...what am I doing wrong?
Is it hitting the adjustable stop? There is a stop that has three settings you can rotate. If not maybe the bit is to far in?
@@WalkersWoodworks nah. I figured it out. The 3/4 inch plywood was too thick for my router. Had to go to 1/4 inch. Works great now. Already flattened a slab today. Thanks for following up
Thanks. Great video.
Great vid and such deeply satisfying work to be doing. I'm considering making a routing sled and may make an Arduino controller to automate it a little. Thanks for all your hard work making this vid and know it's being appreciated all over the globe! One question - have you measured any deflection at all on your sled? Looks pretty solid to me. Cheers from Sydney - Dave
I've spent hours doing this. Good work. I've probably flattened a hundred.
Thanks for the info
Hey man, great video. Thank you for the recommendation on the bit. I think I'll grab one for my adventures. Seems your sponsor for the bit gave you a discount on the bit that ends up being more than the manufacturer's Amazon account sells it for-(end price about 67% compared to the 85% they offered you here) you may want to talk with them about updating that, to help customer build relationships with them instead of Besos- just my thoughts if the ad revenue is to make better long term sense for you both.
Constructive criticism, hoping to help out fellow makers. You got a subscription from me for sure. Clear, concise, effectively communicated the details. I'm grateful to your video and look forward to more to come.
I liked ur original vid but this one is better, great job.
Thanks! Trying to get better as I go haha.
Used similar technique for flattening stump or large block wood
I’m glad I’m not the only one who thought of making their own sled. However, the paste wax? I have to go buy some now because I have had a lot of trouble moving mine. I have a ryobi router the 8.5.
The wax makes a huge difference. Also great to put on your cast iron machine surfaces.
Does the majority of the dust go to one end? Maybe a fence with a dust collector? Great results!
Mostly out the side.
Hola, soy un suscriptor de tu canal y sigo tus videos detenidamente te felicito son excelentes y he tomado algunos ejemplos tuyos para realizar mis proyectos. No soy experto, más bien soy aficionado.
Saludos desde la CDMX 👍
I don't know what you said but I saw a thunbs up. Sooo... 👍
@@WalkersWoodworks He said that he is a subscriber to your channel and follows your videos. He has taken your examples and used them on his projects. He is not an expert, but loves doing it. Cheers from Mexico City.
Oh and asked if you are still on Grinder.
@@samvaldivia3933 hahahaha
Thanks Sam. I appreciate that!
Minus the grinder thing. Lol you jack ass.
Maybe add an inside guide to compliment the outside guide. To keep it evenly moving along while running the router. No more angles.
router is the ancestor of CNC
Thanks for sharing this, I will be using this to build my sled. Question - how low does the bit go (reach) from the underside of the sled? My fear is if I build the rails too high, the bit might not reach the slab....
If it doesn't reach I just shim the slab up so it reaches. 👍
Ha works just as well as the store-bought ones and a heck of a lot cheaper plus easy to disassemble and store..:)
Hi! Thanks for making the video. Did the 2 inch bit fit with the stock Bosch sub base that came with the router? The hole seems to be close to 2 inches. Concerned about collision.
I didn't have to make any adjustments.
Clamping the rails is a great idea ... now I wish I hadn’t made the front top of my workbench flush...
Haha yea I definitely use that overhang alot to clamp stuff.
Screw on a length of angle iron, or something similar. Easy to remove
really really good video I have subscribed. i do know I am being thick here but i am new to flattening - doesn't the outcome depend on the workbench that you stood the rails on being 100% perfect flat or that will just transfer to the slab you are flattening right ?
It will transfer.
Love your videos! Absolutely need to build one of these! Does the work surface you are putting the slabs on to flatten also have to be perfectly flat and level before you flatten your slabs?
Yes it does need to be fairly flat. Thank you for watching! I really appreciate the comment. 😁
Probably most important is to ensure the side rails are parallel. You could eyeball them or use a level. The sled itself is the reference more than the table, though a flat table will certainly be advantage. Keeping the piece secure is critical too - wedges and maybe hotglue as mentioned. Cheers - Dave
The tops of the rails need to be in the same plain.( plane ?)
I had built this sled from from your last video. I made my own rails similar to yours that same day. I tried to make a video and share it but I'm not good at it so I discarded it. I'll stick to woodworking lol. Keep up the great videos.
Haha thanks!!
Hi, great video. I’m making a work bench using 4x4 lumber for the table top. How would this be used effectively to mill it?
It would work great!
Attach rails to the side of the bench below the finished surface height.
Cool JIg man. Shame that bits and bits charge so much for shipping international though. USD$38 just to send a router bit to Australia.
Thanks for the content.
Yea shipping does suck for sure.
My Amazon purchased work bench is planked construction pine. I want to add a nice dead flat mdf top. This looks the best way to flat those planks prior to fitting the mdf. Instead of fitting the rails to the top of the bench, I will screw them to the sides with standoffs to get a full bench width coverage by the router. The bench top is preassembled with framing nails😳….So I hope they stop well under the surface or it will cost me a surfacing bit!!!! Router: I only have a Dewalt cordless brushless trim router with the optional plunge base. It will run about an hour on its 5Ah battery, but the surfacing bit is only 1 inch dia, and you can’t bog the little motor…So I am looking at a long job huh, but it will be a bit of fun!
Hello, i am trying to make my own slider but i am confused about the high of side wood , u have to always to new ones with specific high ? because i can't figure out how to do universal one (where u can mill high 5cm and 2cm) .. is it possible ? or i have to always make new sides which depends on high of creation ? (got also Bosh milling machine and my tool sticks like only 2cm from the machine) thank you :)
I mostly flatten only 2" - 3" slabs so the one size works for me.
Did you have to use an extension for the shank?
Did you have to take the Bosch router base plate off so the two inch bit would clear? I have the same router and it seems that the baseplate won’t fit. Thinking about the collet extender but am worried it might kill me. Thanks for the great ideas.
I don't think I had to. I honestly can't remember lol.
This is nice....
Hey man. Thanks for the video! Do I need a plunge based router for this to work best?
That's what I use.
I use a fixed base just takes a little longer to adjust.
hey I like your video's. I just have a question that I've been trying to figure out. why doesn't anybody run the sled long ways instead of side to side. it just seems like it would take alot less passes?
Thank you for watching! I honestly don't know lol. I have had someone say the go the other way on the last pass. I guess cause people don't want to walk back and forth? Idk haha. It's the same amount of material to remove either way but who knows. Maybe I'll try it next time. 👍
Same distance of cutter travel.
I don’t like the accumulation of dust on the sled surface. You can see in the video the router rides up on the dust. How do you think this affects the final surface of your project?
It reality this is a rough milling process. So that little bit isn't going to matter that much.
Hello - @walkerswoodworks in the fist sled video, you used a different flatten bit, much more expensive - how does the new one compare -please
They seem to be about the same. The price is. Lot different but the Amana bit has replaceable teeth.
Was just wondering what size hp router you used for this sled?
How do you handle different thicknesses of boards?
Great videos! Could you tell me the exact model number of the router you are using in this video? Thanks so much!
It's linked in the video description 👍
How should bookend slabs be flattened, one at a time or together?
If you have the space I'd glue them up then flatten.
@@WalkersWoodworks Thanks.
Getting dip deflection in the middle? Im getting roughly .04 in the middle with weight of router alone. You ever have isses with router jump when your reaching out far?
Instead of raising the piece to smooth the other side could you turn your rails to the shorter side you clamped to the table?
Probably could but that would be a 1 1/2" drop. Probably to much. Might try it though!
How about making the clamp rails wider - maybe only 1" less than the side rails. This idea would work then.
I have a 1/2” router extension to add length to the bit. Works for me www.rockler.com/rockler-router-collet-extension-for-1-2-in-shank-bits?sid=V91040&promo=shopping&PL&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIxtigvfW95wIVxMDACh21tQyyEAQYASABEgJJ7vD_BwE
Does your table have to be perfectly flat for this to work effectively? Or as long as the work piece is shimmed it will reference the sled?
The rails need to be coplanar.
do you have any advice? I made a flattening sled yesterday with 3/4 in thickness as well, just like yours here, but my router bit can't reach down far enough to actually be used. I checked your link about the bit in this video, but it doesn't give overall length of the bit. how long is the bit that you're using? I'm wondering if mine is just too short. Thanks for the help!
Are you using a plunge base?
jkowalski33 Have you thought about a collet extension?
Use blocks and shims to raise the workpiece.
nice
So if I wanted to just flatten end grain board not too big how do you secure it before routering it? If I make a sled to flatten boards so there's no slight wobble ectect. And do you need a plunge router?
I like to use good double sided tape.
Yes a plunge router usually goes deeper than a fixed base so you need that to get past the plywood sled
Use plywood and scrap to make a holder to hold and raise the workpiece
I have made the sled and everything works fine. The only question I have is: How do you secure the piece that you're going rout solid so that is does not move while working on it?
I’ve seen some people use small amounts of hot glue or folded over duct tape. Another idea is to NOT cut off any excess wood first and use the unused piece to clamp it down to the table. He maybe could have done that in the video instead of cutting it with a chain saw first but not 100% sure.
Fasten it to a piece of plywood. Hold the plywood with clamps or barbell weights.
What speed do you run your router at for that size surfacing bit?
Why did you put the screws on the inside vs the outside of the two 3 1/2" boards?
Where can I get slabs of wood like that?
Google 'saw mills near me', Ask tree services who the sell the good stuff to. YT videos of how to build a chainsaw sawmill.
Next video, figure out how to incorporate some dust collection :)
I know right?
What is the mat you are cutting on?
The rockler glue mat
Any problem with the wood under the router bowing in the middle?
Nope! The sides keep it straight.
@@WalkersWoodworks
Gotcha! Makes perfect sense, thanks!
Hey.
I used your coupon code for the Astra coated surfacing bit. But it did not apply🤐.
Great video, could you please include metric for non Americans thanks
What is the width of your table. Rail to rail?
Hi! Can you help me.. What is biggest diameter of a bit i can use for 900watt router?
Thank you
I'm not sure to be honest.
Keep the dust off your sled to prevent your surface from becoming un-leveled.
Is it hard to make a computer desk ?????
Hard is a relative term lol
Why did he make the rails 3 1/2 inches high? The slabs I am flattening are typically 2 inches thick and my router bit will not reach the slab. I have to place a number of spacers beneath the slab. I think the rails should be more like 2 inches high
Most of the slabs I've come across start out at 3"
@WalkersWoodworks I cut 2.5 and 3.5 in slabs. Some of my older 2 inch slabs are shimmed up. Prepare for the thickest.
You better build him a different one to your likings and send it to him free of charge then @eldonwalker
The rails need to be stiff. Plywood of mdf spacer sheets.
Followed along from the first video and built the jig then thought I would save about $50.00 by buying the 1"x1/4" spoil board router bit for a spare router I have. BIG MISTAKE!!!! the shaft length is so short it only stuck out about 1/16" past the jig itself and nowhere on the website does it give total length of bit. Of course I took the wax/plastic coating off the bit and tried it so now I can't return it. Had to drop the $98.00 to get the 2"×1/2" shank bit which sits about 3/4" farther out from the collet than the 1"×1/4". Now I have a unusable/nonrefundable $50.00 bit. Mehhhh
Ah that sucks! Sorry to hear that. BUT! I have a suggestion. You can make a sled like this one out of angle iron and it should be useable that way. My friend Jesse has a video on one he built. Check it out. ua-cam.com/video/7s4iqVObqag/v-deo.html
@@WalkersWoodworks on an upside, i did get your 15% discount with WALKER15. Thank you!
P.s. I'm pretty sure I have some angle iron around!👍
👍
Not ready to spend drum sander money yet and not running through planer so this is only option for now.
Don't you want to use a 12 to 15 amp router for that?
I've found anything over 2-1/2hp seems to do OK.
😃👍🏻👊🏻
Tablesaw kickback = new windshield lol
Thought the same thing, lol.
He was using Jesum’s stock guides so there was no way there was going to be kickback.
The link for the router bit does NOT take you to the bit, just the retailer's main page. PLEASE either fix the link, or put the FULL description of the router bit, so we can search for it on the retailer's website.
"If you had a lighter slab, you may need to secure it to the table. Hot glue works pretty well for that."
Really? Against the force of the router bit, it'll hold?
Yep! Works just fine as long as you don't take off a ton of material.
Chris Rogers it does! Especially the bigger heat glue guns, but the little hot glue guns work as well
For a simpler cleanup, just add painter's tape to both the table and the slab, then use CA glue to join the two ends of painter's tape. It's used quite often as a holding method for CNC machines. When you're done, lift the slab and peel off the tape.
2x4s are too big for my non-existent planer...
Ear protection is also needed, but great job 👏
Hey people! For flattening big slabs 90-110cm/400-500cm is this worth it or even possible? Best, Malthe
Yes I've flattened big slabs with it. Just takes a long time.
4 foot by 16 feet? Yes, but now you are welding. Probably outside unless you have barn.
Nice, but put casters on that work bench and do that shit outside. Now your whole work space is covered in fine sawdust. Also, there are way too many ripples on that finished slab. Your router may need to be shimmed on one side. Good luck.
Ever tried to film a good video outside? When I do it off camera it's definitely outside. Also the lines aren't as bad as they look. They sand right out. 👍
@@WalkersWoodworks , I am two thirds building a slab jig, and I can tell already there will be ripples left behind. Too many variables
please dont hold your sled there while one handing the router, if that does for some reason catch and jump, your gonna mangle your hand to shreds 😮 that two inch bit will make short work of hand bones and tendons...maybe a hand protector for the next upgrade
Your old bit was a 170 dollars and new one is only 100. Why?
Different type of bit. The other one has replaceable carbide teeth. This one does not.
slab flattening router bit
surfacing router bit
Be sure to check out my website for other Projects, Blog posts, Plans and Tools I use! Walkersww.com