Can we get this Ridgid 18V Hyper Lithium Pack back working?
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- Опубліковано 28 жов 2020
- In this video we take a look inside a Ridgid 18V Hyper Lithium battery and try to get it working again. All the cells are very well balanced and hold voltage level very well. The issue is that it has no output from the terminals to run the tools. The pack also shows low and gives a error as defective pack when placed in the charger. We go over the Mosfet operation on the board, try to reset and it ends up being strange and pretty easy, but a fix never the less. Hope you find the video helpful and thanks for watching!
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I did the reset on two batteries after watching your video mate. Recovered both instantly I really appreciate it. Thanks from Australia.
Awesome, thanks for sharing!
Greetings from Augusta, Georgia. USA
You're giving away my secrets here! I have fixed a good number of these boards just by dousing them in IPA and scrubbing them with a old (but clean) tooth brush. They light up like you observed and that's how I know theyre fixed.
Sub'd - I liked your other techniques.
So glad to know this is not an unusual problem. I posted this to see if it would benefit others and I actually had some doubt if this was a common issue or simply a strange one. After a few weeks on here viewers did start mentioning it worked on theirs as well. Thanks for verifying that as well. I have fixed boards like that before and I have videos on GPS dog collars and one on a inverter that cleaning the corrosion on the board helped before. This is one of the rare times that I did not see corrosion at all in the area that seemed to fix the issue. Seems strange, but maybe not so much... Thanks for your comment!
I've enjoyed your EGO videos.
This time, this video allowed me to fix a 3.0AHr Ridgis battery that showed charge, but wouldn't charge or work in a tool (and was purchased without a tool, so the LSA couldn't be applied to this battery).
A good dousing in isopropyl alcohol, scrub with a toothbrush, blown out with air, and it's back working!
My battery had blackening on the + terminal and white and green corrosion on 1/4 of the board. Cleaned right up.
Thanks for your video content. I hope I don't have to use the ego repair info, but I'll be re-watching your videos for tips and info.
Excellent job! Thanks for your kind comments!
Thank you for taking your time to explain everything so detailed.
Extremely impressed with your L.V knowledge.
I only need about half of that capability and ill be stewing with a cast pot!
We are all learning this together. Thanks so much for your kind comment!
Great video very excellent teacher thank you for your insightful approach with troubleshooting. Now I will have another try at my Ryobi battery pack I spoke to you about that's only showing 7.8 volts on the stalk but 19 volts plus on the pack.
It worked!! I have been trying to jumpstart through the terminal leads. Used the wires from the multimeter and a separate Ridgid battery. I went directly to the battery terminals for 10 seconds. Put it back on the charger and viola! No more defective red light. It’s blinking green and charging again! Thanks dude!
Hey there. So you just jumpstarted the battery from another battery ? Just using the 2 outside rails correct ? I need to try this later today
Down here in FL, and a light mist of rain shut down a few of my batteries. After watching your video, I'm pretty confident I can get them working again. I'm going in. Wish me luck.
Best of luck to ya!
Had one in the back of my truck here in TX, wouldn't be surprised if it's the same issue. I'll have to go buy some contact cleaner this week and open it up!
I had one that was working fine in tools but wouldn’t charge. Cleaned corrosion with isopropyl and reset the board. Worked great! Super informative video all around
Awesome! Thanks for your comment!
How did you reset the board?
@@Gotti123 I don’t remember but I believe it was the way outlined in the video, unless I’m thinking of something else.
The battery officially died about a week after I fooled with it 🤣
A month ago, around 2/3 of my battery tools were taken from a jobsite so I gave the rest of my ridgid stuff to my dad (he uses that brand already) and switched to Milwaukee
I manage to jump start one one the dead 3Amp octane batteries with another however I got tye Bluetooth blue light and it still says defective whenever I try to charge it….maybe it’s just not repeatable?
How did you rest the board?
Awesome video. Had the same issue. Cleaned the circuit and the battery came back to life (I believe the corrosion was around the IC).
i wish cleaning corrosion fixed my problem
Ran a tooth brush and a tiny bit of alcohol over the board and now its charging haha. Thanks for the video!
Awesome, thanks for sharing!
Another great video thanks for the information
Thanks fixed one of my many packs, another I had to change the mosfet.
Awesome!
Thanks for the info.
Dropped it into floor leveler.
Thank you for the video. I do have the same battery you have, I was going to toss both batteries because I believe they are definitely dead but I am going to do only the same test you have done. I just have to learn how to use my multimeter a bit more.
Awesome, best of luck to ya!
When my packs get wet from rain or moisture they do that with the light. Clean them real good and good to go. Thanks for the video.
I assume the blinking is similar, but the pack still works fine unlike this one correct? Thanks for your comment!
@@ThriftyToolShed The blinking appears to be the same. I've had some left out in rain multiple times and sometimes they come back and others not. Most times they just get moist and I lay them out to dry after disassembly and cleaning. Appears the conformal coating is lacking in some areas. I have a pack that the level lights don't work at all and it still performs as it should.
I probed around where you mentioned you were when the lights came back on.
What I believe fixed the problem was using my DMM on DC voltage mode and touching each lead off the capacitor. Capacitance slowly jumped up at the capacitor until it was reaching pack voltage. After it reached 20V+ the lights and voltage at the main terminals was restored.
After fixing my bored I came to look for more explanation. It was quite the coincidence we both had results in the same area.
I'd also like to note that I did not clean the bored at all. I mostly just probed around following voltage from BAT-
Very good information, thanks for sharing!
To reset my pack I had to go from RST to +5v. Not RST to GND. Thanks for the info though I was able to get my pack working again. Mine was completely dead, no lights or anything because I replaced all the cells.
Insightful vid!
This is really helpful and an eye-opener to a newbie to electronics. I am just starting to learn about tube-driven guitar amps, so this is a tad over my head, but it gives me encouragement that I might yet learn about solid state devices. Now if only y'all had a video on how to trouble shoot a fan that got rained on... ? I'm thinking it might have to do with some .."thermistor" ?.. that blew. Heck, So much to learn. At least I ain't dead yet.
Tube guitar amps are cool, I desire to learn more about those. Thermistors are simply a device that changes resistance based on temperature. Usually we see more NTC thermistors which is negative temperature coefficient which simply means it decreases in resistance as temperature rises. Rarely we see PTC or positive temperature coefficient just the opposite, its resistance increase when temperature increases. A vast majority of the time we see NTC that is around 10K ohm while in ambient temp of around 70F. I mention NTC a little in a video about EGO 56V battery packs called " What is the T-Terminal?" It touches on Thermistors a little. Also you may already know this: The biggest issue with electronics getting wet is corrosion even if weeks down the road so if any components did get wet make sure to clean the board with a good electrical contact cleaner or rinse really well with >90% Isopropyl alcohol even a small brush like a tooth brush scrubbing is helpful. Hope it helps some and thanks so much for your comment.
I've an 18v 60Ah with same charger you use in this video and the charger doesn't flash faulty but battery won't charge??anything just from that you could recommend I do please
@@mikehunt9993 DO YOU GET THE SAME RESULT WITH OTHER BATTERY PACKS ?
@@mikehunt9993 try different charger could be charger itself
Tks for sharing this. I have two 9ah batts. One charges on the larger chargers fine but the other 9ah pops the defective light shortly after plugging the battery in.... However, that "defective" battery charges just fine on the smaller lower powered charger. Any ideas as to why this is happening? They are the octane batteries and both show as "healthy" on the Ridgid app.
Hard to say, I have not had those exact packs to say for certain. I have only had this issue with corrosion on the board. Thanks for your comment!
I dropped mine into a bucket of concrete floor leveler ...slurry mix.
The components inside were completely covered in dust and cement.
I RECOVERED it!
Amazing how much abuse it can take.
Only REGRET not taking a before photo to upload and show you ....for a laugh.
Thanks again Sir.
Sounds like a mess for sure. Excellent job! Thanks for sharing!
@@ThriftyToolShed Scubbed with WAX and GREASE removing solvent as I had run out of Contact cleaner....blew with compressed air...thats it.
may i ask the open circuit voltage at the battery charger output please pal , mine has nothing without a battery connected and then i just get battery voltage when i connect a battery , converted the charger from 110v to 220v as for the south african market but still cannot get the charger to charge the batteries
Hi! How about 4 lights blinking at the same time when i try and charge the cells?
Wow so awesome.... Gooooood Joooob!!!! I gotta try tonite and see what I can do with mine
Looks Good.
Hello thanks for the video ! Can you please let me know how to remove the security tabs off the battery to access the torx screws only two of them are uncovered
Mine did not have the tabs covering the torx head screw. I have had some Ryobi with the plastic plugs covering the screw, but not yet on the Ridgid. Sorry. If it's like the Ryobi you can simply take a very small flat screw driver and slightly penetrate the plug and then pry it out, of course these you have could be different. Best of luck to ya!
Hi. Do you have any knowledge in Octane pack ? Is there a reset pin on the board ? Thanks
I am not sure about the octane. I would hope it would have the header area on the board. I have seen boards that do not have it and the only way to try a reset is to look up the microcontroller pin out and jump reset pin to ground. These with the conformal coatings make that a more difficult job than it should be. You have to gently scrape off the coating on those pins and the pitch is very fine on these newer micros....
I also have some corrosion around 3 of the battery cells themselves. It got rained on good one day. Is there are different cleaner for the battery cells or use the contact cleaner and IPA as well?
That should work well. Vinegar is also great at cleaning most corrosion, but I always make sure to clean it off extremely well with IPA after your done to get the vinegar residue off. It can cause corrosion aslo if left on the surfaces.
You're a clever cookie...thanks
Thanks for your kind comment!
Thank you so much
Great video! I have a 5aH lithium Ridgid battery pack that will charge but never shows more than 2 bars on the indicator. It's only a little over a year old. Thoughts?
I would check all cells voltage and make sure they are balanced. Could be bad cell or cells. If they rest ok then the only other fix may be resetting the microcontroller like I tried in this video. Best of luck to ya!
would be nice to say what terminals your checking if the terminals marked. Thx
Thanks for your feedback.
Have you ever worked on a Ridgid 9amp Hyper lithium pack. It is in like new condition but I rarely used it and now when I check charge I have no lights and it will not charge. It keeps the checking condition flashing for ever. I see no pins to jump on the board to re-set it and the way it sets and is strapped I am unable to figure out the cell connections (to try and jumpstart it with a good 18 volt battery. Thanks if you can provide any information
Sorry, I have not worked on one of those. Be very careful jumping pack to pack. If one is really discharge and the other charged it could destroy both packs. Always use a CV CC power supply source with lithium. Constant current is key to protect from over current inrush. Best of luck to ya!
Ive an 18v 60Ah with same charger you use in this video and the charger doesn't flash faulty but battery won't charge??anything just from that you could recommend I do please
If this is the only pack that does it with this charger I would start with cleaning contact points on the pack and charger. Make sure all connections are in good shape.
Just courious are you st liberty to tell me where you get your replacement battery bms from? For most makes.
I have bought a few off of eBay over the last few years, but none of the ridgid packs. I have purchased BMS for Makita, Ryobi, Dyson and some generic 2S, 3S and 4S BMS boards.
I had the same exact issue and everytime I did clean it did light up. Unfortunately never got to the charging part cuz had to fix the charge station that didn't light up.
Which was caused by A/C side Cap defect.
I have had the caps fail in some Ryobi chargers as well. Of course both are made by TTl.
Thought I was going to luck out with a good circuit board cleaning...used 91% alcohol and lights came to life...but then right back to only 1 LED. Charger says charged, battery says dead. I am working on a 5AH Hyper LIon battery and the board does not look like yours...any chance you can assist further in resetting the baord?
I have only worked on a few of this type. The corrosion cleaning and then the micro reset is the only 2 repairs I have personally come across. The only other repair I have done on these is the obvious cell replacement on some with bad cells.
Great video! Any insights on the 24V XLi batteries?
Thanks for your comment. I don't have any experience with the XLi 24V sorry.
Thank you my man!! I'm seeing similar responses but my reset is not working at all and no blinking. But showing 14 volt on board and 9 on mofset forgive me if I spelled wrong . Do clean board and jump the mofset,? Ok :)
Yes I would clean the board with a good contact cleaner. You can test like I did by going Mosfets, but if you did that permanently you would not have low voltage cut out protection.
Just gotta quick question, what do the 2 middle terminals do? I'm planning on making a charger from scratch but I'm curious to know if one of those are a charge input?
On these, one of the middle pins is for charging and the other is for temperature monitoring if I remember correctly. It's been a while and this video shows about the only issue I have had with these Ridgid packs. I have worked on many packs that have a communication connection between the tool and pack, but these Ridgid packs have the BMS and Cut off built into the pack similar to Ryobi. Best of luck to ya with yours.
@@ThriftyToolShed thanks mate, I thought that was the case, funnily enough there isn't any information or very little about pin configurations lol thanks mate and thanks for posting this video it was a great help learning about these cells, great content mate👍
These Ridgid Batteries have a low voltage cut off built into the board correct?
Yes, the Mosfets we talked about here will cut out in event of low voltage or temperature Issues.
I just bought a set of 3Ah Ridgid Octane batteries still sealed from a seller. One showed one bar and is charging fine. The other showed a blue light and did not charge. Any ideas?
I don't have any octane batteries with the Blue LED. It may have to do with the blue tooth. I still use the 18V hyper lithium packs. I just repair them and keep going so far. I ha e repaired a few Octane tools that I bought non-working, but still no packs! Best of luck to ya!
Very interesting and informative video, thanks. BTW: down at NASA in the 70s we used to call this PFM
I have to ask what was called PFM? I so love to hear people talk about NASA especially in the 60s - 80's. I watched YT channel Smarter Everyday when Destin interviewed Luke Tally and it was absolutely incredible how Luke talked about all the Saturn engineering like it was yesterday in his mind. So glad Destin captured that with Luke it was spectacular. Thanks so much for your kind comment!
@@ThriftyToolShed Pure Fucking Magic
@@ThriftyToolShed There were many special acronyms, for instance the resistor color code......
@@geckoproductions4128
😂, well I asked. I actually thought it was something NASA technical about what you were saying lol!
Yes, the color code yeap and F.U.B.A.R and B.O.H.I.C.A and the list goes on...😂
Great video. Considering you cleaned the board and said there was something on the board, I wonder if it will corrode again faster after its been cleaned. I wonder if there is a spray or something that would protect from corrosion so it would last longer.I know some vehicle circuit boards have a thick coating that can be peeled off, others like my MPPT solar charge controller have a clear coating over the board to guard against moisture.
These boards for sure had a light conformal coating, but nothing like thick silicone or the epoxy style sealant. I have honestly had great luck after cleaning the boards well with the plastic safe contact cleaner and getting rid of the corrosion, but I have considered adding a silicone based electronics sealant if I have any issues do come back. I also have removed the silicone potting from many EGO 56V packs to repair the boards and since I am careful to not let mine get damp at all, I have not had any issues with those yet either. Since it is easier to work on if the need arises I will leave them uncovered unless I start seeing an issue. My first EGO repair video was over 5 years ago and it's still going great so far. Thanks for your kind comment!
I have my eyes on something like these if needed, but I have no experience with them at this time...
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I have the r840089 battery. The circuit board is quite a bit different including having two controllers and four MOSFETs. Nothing is labeled about reset or +5 or anything like that. I tried shorting across a couple through holes labeled PROG and that caused everything to stop functioning. After some time, it went back to blinking LED1 after pushing the test button. Any help?
Some are not labeled. I am not familiar with this model and if reset doesn't help, you can try cleaning the board, but it is not always the fix.
@@ThriftyToolShed I tried the cleaning. Didn't help. Guess I'll keep looking. Thanks for the reply.
I have the same model behaving the same way. Cleaned off a ton of corrosion but stuck with LED1 blinking. When I put it on the charger the charger blinks “evaluate” briefly then the charger appears to go dormant.
Did you ever find a way to reset his board? I couldn’t find anything.
Thanks for this. You can add my battery to the "reset fixed it" count. :)
Awesome! Glad it helped and thanks for sharing!
I have a battery that won't charge or release power. On the output terminals, I have voltage on the positive, but I don't have continuity on negative to anywhere. I can't check voltage between positive and negative on those terminals. So the negative side is open somewhere. I dont know where to begin to check.
It's been awhile, but I thought I showed the Mosfets and how the negative is switched through them in this video?
@@ThriftyToolShed I looked up a schematic for the battery and the terminal goes pretty much straight to the negative side of the battery. So I soldered a wire from the terminal to negative and it works great now.
Must not be the same battery that I show here then. These Ridgid absolutely have the negative side switched through the Mosfets as shown in video. Without the Mosfet shutting down the voltage from cells you have no protection from over discharge, over heating etc.
What are the other two main pins, and what do they do. They’re labeled T1 & T2
I have not looked that far into these, but have many other packs. Most modern packs have a temperature feedback terminal and a communication terminal. I would be almost certain these are the same. This is one of the few issues I have had with these type packs and no longer have any myself to say for certain.
Man, I had 2 Ryobi P108 batteries stop working on me on the same day, just did the reset by jumping the board and they both work again. Makes me think the batteries were programmed to fail after a certain amount of time. I mean what are the chances that two batteries I bought together failed the exact same way at the exact same time?
That's crazy. Glad it worked, thanks for sharing!
Have 2 x AEG (AUS version) 2.5Ah that both at the same time cannot fire up the brushless drill. Both batteries still charge on the charger as normal but never reach to a full charge...(cannot go past flashing the 3 orange led).
Power at the terminals is 17 volts
I have opened the batteries... and the power internally is at 19volts ...
Cleaned the board with shallite... even reset the board (no lights lit up)... but no success same issue
Have you encountered this problem... ?? Pls Help
Just the issue shared in video. The board cleaning and the reset is the only issue I have seen so far with these. I did have to clean 2 of these more than once to get it to work correctly. I could not see any corrosion around the microcontroller, but ended up being ok after a good spraying the second time with plastic safe contact cleaner and lightly brushing gentle brush all around the microcontroller area. Best of luck to you with yours! .
Tengo un problema muy parecido, tengo 2 baterías averiadas, una que enciende el ultimo led de carga, pero no carga y cuando la conecto dice que esta full a los 10 segundos, y la otra los led indicadores no enciende, cuando la conecto se pone a cargar, marca full a los 10 segundos y luego se pone en defectuosa, voy a desarmar ambas a ver que tal me va, gracias por tu video.
por favor indica si te funcionó la solución de limpieza del board.
I have a Hyper 4.0 won't drain below 3 lights. shows 20 volts on the board and 2 volts on the termanal and quits working.
If all cells are balanced well then it's in the BMS board. If reading 20V hopefully all are balanced pretty well, if not some of them may be over charged! I would check that first and then it would be BMS trouble shooting or at least try the reset? Best of luck to ya!
You can thank AEG for the battery design ;) Ridgid just has a license to make rebranded versions for the US market.
That said; I have 2 AEG Pro Lithium-ion batteries (same as the Ridgid 'Hyper Lithium-ion' ones that you have) that were made in 2010. Still going strong
The design of the case is very good, but the battery protection and balance charging of the board are high quality as well.
Another cool feature is that the batteries are backwards compatible with basically any and all 18V tools, regardless of the battery technology. The charger also supports Ni-Cd, Ni-MH, and Lithium-ion batteries alike.
So you can revive any 18V tool with a new lithium battery without having to buy any other parts new.
Fun fact;
in the late 60s, early 70s AEG used to make attachments for corded hammer drills, to 'convert' the drill into a circular saw, jigsaw, bench grinder, lathe, etc.
They came with a guarantee that these would work with any and all future iterations of AEG hammer drills.
They still maintain that promise to this day, even though TTI has taken over.
Fun facts #2-7;
AEG pioneered the first portable drill, was the first to make a 'pistol grip' drill, had the first battery powered drill in be used in space (in 1984, more than a decade before the 1st Makita in space).
They were also the very first company to have a unified design strategy throughout it's products and print efforts.
Basically, the first 'corporate identity' ever (which is of course common practise for every company now. It's why you recognize Apple products, or Milwaukee tools, or a Google service, or Bosch tools or Stanley at a mere glance)
I am somewhat fimilar with AEGs background. I have not had any personal experience with them and I knew they were part of TTI now. The Ridgid badge is not straight forward. TTI has the basic home owner tools with the Ridgid label. But the professional Ridgid Tools are different from the Ridge tool company. I am glad to hear things are still good with AEG still with TTI.
Thanks for the great video. I'd just like to point out that Ridge Batteries are guaranteed for life if you took time to register them when you first bought them.
Thanks for your comment! Exactly, that's one reason I had these packs, my packs were from Home Depot returns from warranty replacement.
I've tried to register my Ridgid tools and batteries. I followed the instructions, took pictures of the receipt, box and tool or battery and sent them all through the registration website. In one situation they sent me a generic reply asking me to send them pictures of the tool, box and receipt which I had already done. I resent and they never replied back, so I thought all was good until a battery failed, and I tried to get it replaced. They said I had never registered the product. Just seems like a total scam to me.
@@Graybeard_ Yes, their warranty is a joke. they make you jump through hoops and then don't want to honor the warranty anyway.
hey pal , thanks for the video , helped me to get my new but 2 year old 2Ah pack working again , i am still having issues with the charger though and thought i would ask you a few questions if you dont mind , firstly what do the 2 centre flat contacts on the battery do ? , do you know if the packs can be charged by any other means other than with the charger from ridgid ? , does the charger send a signal through t1 and t2 to allow the battery to accept a charge ? , i have tried charging the batteries with another 20v lithium charger i have directly through the + and the - terminals on the battery but it only allows around 15 to 20 seconds then the battery shuts off , any detailed info you may have on the batteries or charger would be greatly appreciated pal as i would really like to be able to charge the batteries safely and not do any damage to them by not balancing their charge properly
many thanks
sincerely
rich moss
Glad you were able to get your pack going! Awesome job. As far as the open circuit voltage on the charger it is 0V. It senses the pack and tests it before it outputs charging voltage so you will not see any voltage output unless a pack is connected and tested good and is in process of charging the pack. The 2 center terminals are for pack monitoring and I believe they are both of temperature monitoring by means of a NTC thermistor. I can't recall on these packs if the NTC connects directly or not but I am almost certain the NTC does go through the board and may be a feedback to the microcontroller and the microcontroller may output to the charger? I really can't recall for sure. The many brands are all a little but different it seems. Anyway, I don't see a easy way to connect these to another charger until we know exactly what the T1 and T2 terminals do in the charger. I have no schematic for these of course so what little bit I know has been from tracing and troubleshooting specific issues. I have not had to look into these terminals closely yet. As far as charging these, the best way is always to check individual cells for balancing so, charging any other way, the cells would need to be out of the case. I use a CC-CV supply to charge cells. The Constant current and Constant Voltage is a must so you can set the current to a safe level like 500ma to 1A and set the voltage level at cut off voltage, such as 4.2V for individual cells or 21V for the 5S pack. Again if using 21V accross the pack the balancing will need to be checked often. The BMS board des that for you in the charger, so manually charging means we have to do it. You don't want one cell being at 3.8V level and others at 4.3V or so that could ruin the cells or even be a hazard if you go much at all above 4.2V on the cells. Best of luck to ya!
much appreciated pal , i will continue trying to find info for the charger but in the mean time will just continue charging the batteries with another small lithium 21v charger i have , i know it is not ideal but i dont have much of a choice , a little irritating that the brand new charger doesnt seem to work , the items stood for around 2 years before i got my hands on them but cant see how this could affect the parts but my knowledge is limited so i guess anything is possible , all the batteries are performing well and i dont have to charge often
one last question , seems like there is 5 volts coming down the t1 and t2 wires from the charger to the battery , wonder if i give the batteries 5 volts on the t1 and t2 if i could get it to charge through the battery plus and minus contacts !!
any thoughts mate ??
@@richardmoss2904 I don't believe it will charge through that. It is a feedback from packs NTC I believe. I have not traced through that to know for sure.
what the number(#) the secure bit to unscrew the screw in the battery
T10 security, it's one of the first things I mentioned in the video. The link to a long security but set in description of needed.
No signal to switch on a MOSFET is the most common problem I see with the ryobi 18 volt packs. If voltage is jumped to the gate it will turn on but Never been able to fix the problem ....didn't know about rebooting the chip and never thought cleaning the board could possibly do anything. I would love to see this issue in one of your videos.
Thanks for your comment, I will look into it.
@@ThriftyToolShed - I have the same Ryobi issue as in the comment above; just wondering if you may have done a video on that already?
Is it OK to run a jumper from ground to the source of the second MOSFET, or would that just circumvent the first MOSFET.
I believe it would bypass the first one. In the video I had no issue with the Mosfet on my left (the first one). I had the ground all the way through to my source pin of the mosfet on the right (the second one). I did not verify, but I assumed it was coming through like you said. it is so hard and time consuming without schematics, but it seems either mosfet can shut down the pack independently based on what its monitoring. For example: One could be for temp. monitoring etc. the other could be for voltage level monitoring?
@@ThriftyToolShed Thank you so much for your reply. My right-side MOSFET was also not opening correctly, although the MOSFET seems to be testing OK. Running a jumper to the source on the left MOSFET gets my battery functioning again, but I am concerned that this defeats an safety measure. Unfortunately, cleaning the board did not resolve my issue.
I read a post that claimed the MOSFETS provided bi-directional control, but that is almost surely incorrect. I believe bi-directional control would require 4 transistors configured as an h-bridge (although I have limited knowledge in this area). Both directions also work on my drill when using my battery what I jumpered. I believe you are correct; the MOSFETs provide a safety-related function.
I was getting partial voltage at the output leads, but the issue was my ground -- I know relatively little about electronics, but this surprised me. I had continuity to the positive output from the battery, but not on the negative side. I am assuming the MOSFETs are in series with the drain of the right side MOSFET connecting to the source of the left side one. In testing a functional battery, I seemed to be getting continuity from the negative battery connection to the output lead, but only when the right-side MOSFET was open.
@@darrellr1362 Yes these are N- channel Mosfets and are switching the Negative. It has nothing to do with bidirectional control.
The positive goes directly to the output terminals. If I remember correctly both Mosfets are on to output to the negitive terminal. So they should be in series. Jumping from source on left Mosfet to drain on right Mosfet bypasses both!
So I accidentally shorted out a pack. I conducted the reset and then hit the button to activate the LED’s. That caused a burst of smoke to emanate from what appeared to be the mosfets. I tested the mosfets and they test fine. The status lights won’t turn on. Then I removed both mosfets and now the status lights are functioning. Just replace both mosfets? Thanks.
In my experience if you did see smoke coming from Mosfet, they are usually shorted or open after that. If they do check good, is it possible a resistor near the gate etc. Is where the smoke came from instead of the Mosfets?
@@ThriftyToolShed if you are looking at the side of the battery where the nose is on the left, the smoke came from between the right most battery on the top and the metal “heat sink”. The smoke came from underneath the board and I dont see anything under there in that area. After I did the reset the lights no longer came on but I just removed both mosfets and now the lights are coming on…
Smoke usually leaves evidence, but hard to say really if you can't see any.
thanks
Total laymen here: So I've had two Ridgid Hyper Li 18v 4ah batteries that were perfectly good at the time, get a light rain on the drill, and they stopped working. I brought them in and left them to dry for a couple of days, but they are dead. I tried the jumping method using a good fully charged battery, but nothing. I just don't get how a short period out in a light rain could so easily cause these batteries to fail like this. One battery I was working outside with it when it started to rain. I took a few minutes to put a tarp over my project and then gathered my tools and brought them inside, but that was all it took. My question is what has likely happened? Did they short out, and somewhere there is a fried circuit? I could see that happening dropping them in a pool of water, but just a light, brief rain while the battery is plugged into the tool?
It's possible they suffer from corrosion as seen here in this video. Until the pack shown in this video, I would not have thought light corrosion could have caused this much of an issue. I learned from this and still much more to learn for sure. I would say very unlikely it shorted out due to rain, but more like corrosion afterwards. Water ingress damage is usually from corrosion as it attacks the metal of the components and now with these tiny SMD components it doesn't take much to cause issues for sure. All you can really do after trying warranty replacement is check all cells voltage and make sure they are not too low and are balanced and then check and clean board for corrosion in the area I shared in the Video even if not seen. Some of these newer chips are BGA or Ball Grid Array and the tiny connection under the chip is many soldered connection very susceptible to corrosion, it's hard to get to. Other than the reset for the microcontroller on the board, that's all I would know to check. Best of luck to ya!
@@ThriftyToolShed Thank you for the reply. My security T10 bit will be here Wednesday, and I'll check the voltage of each cell, and if they look good, I'll try the reset.
Awesome
I don't have the reset pin on my new AEG battery (same as Ridgid). Andy idea how can I perform it ? Thanks
If you don't see a programming header or at least pads for a programming header then yours may not have one. Most packs do, I have seen some without. I have not worked on a AEG, I always thought them to be the same as Ridgid. May be a few differences?
@@ThriftyToolShed it's a recent AEG proHD 6ah. Maybe they remove the way to reset it 😐
Oh ok! I have not worked on the newer Ridgid packs they could be the same way then!
Did you ever find out how to reset using the prog header pins?
@@ThriftyToolShed How would you reset using the header marked “prog” and pin holes labeled 1 through 6? Or if there is documentation out there you could point me at?
I have a similar 4 amp hour pack. It shows no lights. Reads 15.78 on the main terminals but 18.03 directly from the cells they're all balanced (it was 2 lights before going weird). I ground the reset - I get all four lights to flash as if charging then turn off. At first the charger was saying it was fully charged after evaluating - now it says defective. I don't see any visible corrosion... baffling.
Sounds like a board issue for sure. Have you tried the cleaning yet? Some on here are saying they had luck cleaning theirs like I talked about in this video. I did not see visible corrosion in the area that helped mine either. Maybe it will help, that is all I would know to try, your cells seem good from what you describe. Best of luck to ya!
I have the EXACT same problem. 15v at the terminal, 19.7 across the batteries. No LEDs from the button, blinked on reset but no change after. I don't see any corrosion, will try cleaning but am not hopeful, would love any other ideas
I've cleaned with sensor cleaner and brushed with isopropyl alcohol. No changes. I probed for a few nights after work and uncovered nothing else... Anyone else have any luck?
@@mattcreator8480 Nothing yet. I noticed something really weird though, might be a clue. Measuring directly across the cells showed 19v. Measuring from the negative connector terminal to either the positive connector terminal or the positive battery cell output showed 14v. But measuring from the negative cell output to the negative connector pin showed 0v. Doesn't make any sense to me
Will a hypertough charger work on rigid battery
I have not worked with Hypertough line at all to say for certain either way. I will say typically brands design their packs to only work with their own designed chargers. Although most all 20V packs need the same charging voltage It's all about how the sensing circuit is for the pack and of course physical fit as well.
I got the same battery!! Can I charge it with my Milwaukee m18 charger?? And what mean T1. And T2 ?? Do I need these two to charge it?? Thank you for reading me !!
Sorry, I have not looked into that to say for certain. The packs may not be very different, but the Temperature terminals etc. as you mentioned would have to be investigated to see if they are in fact compatible. Both use thermistors, but I have not compared the exact differences.
@@ThriftyToolShed thanks for your time to answer the best way of your knowledge!! I appreciate it a lot !! If someone else reading my questions knows well the right answer !! It will be very welcome !! Thank you friends!!
I have an old R840084 Rigid 18V that I can't figure out. I get 20 volts across the main power leads. All the batteries are level (around 4.09 to 4.11). It charges really quickly with no errors, but then it's only good for a few minutes of run time. Then if you wait a few, it will run again. It's like the batteries discharge in 1 minute intervals then go flat, then after a bit they can discharge again. Really weird, any ideas?
I have seen a similar thing happen when the cells or at least 1 cell is bad. So it's not the most common failure, but I have seen a cell go bad and be so low in capacity that it will charge up fine to 4V or so and then under load drop like a rock. It could be a cell doing this or the Board maybe causing it if it thinks it's a cell issue.
@@ThriftyToolShed Thanks, I'll try testing the pack immediately after it does a discharge. The weird thing is that if I wait, the battery will act just like it did off the charger. It will spin great for a minute (no load), then stop. I'm not sure if the batteries ever discharge because you would have to go through several cycles to force them. This is an older board, and I don't know how to reset it. There is a RST contact but no GND. I'm afraid to short it to anything but ground. Right now, I'm trying to see if I can get at least 50% discharge on the batteries.
@@GeorgeNovak
You may be able to look up the Microcontroller datasheet and see where ground is on it and use where that pin is connected as a reference for ground.
Expensive but does the job well
Any chance you can show how to do this on a Dyson V8 battery pack?
Some of the Dyson packs have a terrible feature. When the board senses any of the cells have gone below a safe voltage level the board throws a permanent error and it cannot be reset. Not sure about the V8 specifically. I have seen some on UA-cam go as far as to try to get a program out of a working packs Microcontroller and reprogram the faulty one after replacing cells etc. That is a tremendous amount of work to repair a battery. Not sure which Dyson packs are like this.
OK, good to know, thank you. Thanks for your efforts, great videos.
I have a ridgid battery and wen I pick it in the charger is says energy save what do that mean
That is usually the charger thinking the pack is fully charged. If the pack is not really full and other packs are charging fine with that charger the problem is in the pack.
@@ThriftyToolShed yeah my battery is dead so the battery must be bad
Having the same issue but the clean doesn't work.
I pulled the battery pack apart to have a look inside and manually install a balance lead so I could charge it on my hobby grade charger in case something went wrong.
AND THEN IT STOPPED WORKING! Very annoying
ok what the hell, I just put the housing back on for the hell of it and now it's working.
Temperamental!
Sounds about right, lol.
What did you use to clean it with? It may have had to dry out before functioning properly. I have used high percentage alcohol and still had it cause the boards to act up because it still has a small percentage of water in it. Not usually enough to hurt it, but cause the microcontroller to act up till dry. Plastic safe contact cleaners usually don't do that. Some 99% alcohol may not but any percentage lower than that will. I will not use any lower percentage alcohol on any board that cannot be powered down like these packs because of water content.
@@ThriftyToolShed it was some methalated spirits (Isopropol alcohol)
no added water as far as I'm aware. Cheers for the guide, the reset trick will be useful in future no doubt
I found the left hand mofset was not functioning and it seeto not be triggering. I ended up soldering a small wire from the trigger connection of one mofset to the other with this in place everything works ok. It appears to me e that there e are two parallel circuits one to trigger each mofset this makes me think that they may somehow be involved with safety circuits but I have no way of confirming this. Once you do this the battery charges and operates normally. I keep my batteries in a steel box with dividers and a external spark proof vent. Just to be sure.
I do believe the monitoring circuit (safety) of the board is indeed what will cut the gate to the Mosfet.
hmm...makes one wonder is coating the board with some kind of anti-corrosion coating...non-conductive of course. I work commercial aviation (avionics) and every so often, when we swap out a bad device (LRU, or some other electromechanical device), and determine it is not a serviceable item, we will (just to fulfill curiosity) open the "black box" and examine components inside and do a general visual inspection. (we are not actually licensed at my facility to perform official repairs to LRU's...but since its a bad device, we consider it a learning event with no downside ..since the device will go back to a licensed overhaul maintenance repair station for authorized work before the item is restored and returned back as a genuine serviceable item)...anyway, what we find over and over when cracking open these devices is that PCB boards ALL have some kind of anti-corrosion coating...likely a type of epoxy. The function is not solely to mitigate against component contamination, but also to anchor the components in high shock and vibration conditions. So that's pretty standard. I would imagine even retail hand tools like these drill batteries experience quite a bit of forces and of course contamination introduced through various vents and gaps in design.
So I am thinking that maybe a good idea would be to do a bit of preventative maintenance on these devices and coating the pcb with a thin layer of alcohol diluted epoxy resin. Doesn't really need to be a thick coating. Just enough to prevent board contamination ...The only concern might be heat dissipation properties...but if the coating is thin, I would consider the effects to be negligible.
The other things we learned about common failure factors are the usual suspects:
connectors and corrosion...sometimes we can get things to work just by cleaning up the input/output connectors! (there's alot going on with electric/magnetic fields around connectors and aircraft....almost all connectors (even cannon plugs) will eventually develop surface contamination.
relays and caps....by far the most common failure components. With caps, you can see the bulge...with relays using a remote power source, you can determine if it switches correctly. These two items are most common failure components.
mosfets/gates..similar to relays and caps, we see alot of failure...and the trend we see shows there are certain class of poor quality mosfets (or poor design) that explain why the failure rate is repeated across the same model and class of LRU.
anyway...I'm binging on youtube and found your stuff...I also happened to buy a brand new ridgid set at a ridiculously low price at the homedepot and of course the first thing I did was open everything up including the charger to see where the magic happens. I will say, I am very impressed with the design of the batteries too....but most of all, I was quite surprised to see a high quality brushless motor built with solid design.
now, I plan to do a bit of epoxy work to coat the boards since my tools are going to see by far the toughest kind of humidity known to mankind...
louisiana baby...where it is raining even when its not raining.
I do believe it is a anti-corrosion coating as well. Very interesting information on the aviation electronics. It is neat that the failures you have noted are basically the same failures that plague consumer electronics and tools. Basically everything you described issues I have mentioned in one repair or another especially the corrosion on connectors and the caps. I have a couple videos on the brushless Ridgid Drill and Jigsaw. The BLDC controller failed on both. Thanks for sharing!
@@ThriftyToolShed I chose ridgid not just for the price, but the warranty (lifetime) that ridgid honors (provided you buy it from homedepot)....earlier I was a craftman tool guy for the same warranty sears would honor, but now that sears is all but kaput, I did not want to risk getting gear I could not return for warranty. I think homedepot sells craftsman, but I was skeptical about the warranty assurances. What I had to do with ridgid was to register each serial number for each drill (drill/hammer combo, and impact, two batteries and the charger....the warrantry registration IS NOT immediate. I got a notice it may take up to six weeks to receive the warranty registration....I'm not sure what's going on with that. I've never bought ridgid before, but I did some homework and bought an older model because it was reported to be reliable for medium duty work and of course the pricing. Out the door with two drills, two 5Ah batteries, charger and a nylon tool tote. $200 plus tax. I could have gone cheaper, but it was the warranty and others I know who like the product. I'm not allowed to use these tools on aircraft (cert requirements and calibration for clutching (overtorque risks)....so this will be standard shop gear. I put both of the drills to the test a few days ago and bore a 1/2 aggressive boring drill through a treated 4X4 with no sweat. The impact mode of the drill/hammer was oddly better than the impact for this work. Protip: always use the torque handle...lol...I just about did the wrist twist right quick being a dummy.
I'll look at your other videos for sure. It's all very useful.
see ya around! God Bless
I believe Lowes sells Craftsman now. I am like you, I have not bought Craftsmen since the Sears days. They were unusual and special back in the day and now another face in the crowd. I agree about the torque of these newer Brushless tools, you need the handle! Thanks for your comments and God Bless!
Hi, I have 2 18v and 2.0ah hyper lithium batteries by Ridgid. The made date shows Mar 2018. I get 0 lights, yet charger shows Green, no issues. Plug it in and the red flashes about 3, 4 times then green. Yet 0 lights, no power. Do you have any suggestions? I've got old 12 volt Ridgid, and they charge but don't hold charge long. That i understand. But 2 batteries from same batch 1 manufacturer number different. So are a set from the kit. But both with exactly same issue? Seems weird. They look brand new, so it's not misuse. Appreciate any advice. Thanks.
Seems odd both being that new and in that great of physical condition for sure. I have to ask if you have tried warranty replacement of these being that new? In case you have no warranty I will ask what all have you tried yet? Have you measured voltage across all cells or tried the microcontroller reset? Sounds like corrosion may not be an issue if they look that clean, but I have seen some odd behavior with even mostly unseen corrosion around some microcontroller pins. I shared a little about this on this video with the Ridgid packs and in a recent video on a Fluke 79 DMM I was surprised that cleaning around the microcontroller got it back working as well. Rare fixes for me, but atleast successful sometimes.
@@ThriftyToolShed No, I have difficulty registering my tools. Bad habit.
As for checking for voltage, no, haven't checked with a meter. 0 lights on display, and totally dead on tool, so assuming they are totally drained and when I put them in the charger, it blinks red a few times,then green, as if charged. I've repaired several of my tools, mechanically I'm proficient,but all the little solders and diods throw me for a loop. I'll open them one at a time and see what I see. Like u said, one with the problem is acceptable, but both? The drill works fine with a newer battery,so it s not the drill. I'm totally disappointed. And as i said,the manufacturer number is the same on both except for the last number. Ones a 6 and the other is a 7. So they were side by side on the assembly line.
I will open them up and check for corrosion. Maybe I'll get lucky.
Very frustrating, because the drill is like new. The chuck paint job is perfect. Not 1 chip or scar. Crazy.
I understand. Possibly the cells are really flat or atleast too low to charge. Crazy how the charger goes green..
@@ThriftyToolShed Like I said, I have several battery tools,of different brands. These are the first that have died like this. As far the charger going green, I thought maybe twas the charger as well. But I have three Ridgid chargers and they all did the same. Flashes red for few blinks,then green. I'll pick up another can of contact cleaner and open um up. I thought the newer batteries had the flat cells, like phone batteries?
The only pack that I know of with the flat cells is the DeWalt power stack. They are higher current out of the gate so for saws and impacts I could see a benefit. Slow drain loads not much different most likely. Also, I knew the issue you have sounds like the packs l, I just meant it was odd with the charger going green as in I have not seen that that I remember. Best of luck to ya and Happy New Year!
I cleaned my circuit board with some alcohol and a toothbrush. Now my 3rd light D2 has not stopped flashing. Like you said, It thinks it's charging. its been over 24 hours though and it hasn't stopped flashing.. This flashing of the lights has made it to work again, some how it made it work. Like on your video, I had to bypass it before for it to work. Any idea on how to make it stop flashing? This battery did not charge, I got a "Defective" light on it and it did not work as well until the bypass and the current lights status. Any help would be appreciated. P.S. I bought some contact cleaner today and tried cleaning it again and nothing. Lights keep on flashing. Thank you for the video
I have not seen one do that and not stop yet. I was thinking try cleaning again or contact cleaner, but you have already done that. I do not know other than something is either shorted or bridged on the board making that happen. Without schematic it is very difficult, with a magnifying glass tracing the circuit back from the LED back to find something will just take alot of time and the VIA's in the multiple layers makes it tough. I would think it is a input to the microcontroller causing the blink so most likely a small and transistor shorted or bridged maybe.
Wish you the best with this, hate yours don't stop blinking. These things are tough to troubleshoot. Best of luck to you with yours!
@@ThriftyToolShed i found some circuit boards from china for a similar offmarket model R840083 for $15 on eBay. I will use a magnifying glass and see if i can find anything bridged or shorted. If not i will report back in about 40 days with my switching of the board experiment. Thank you!
I have a video on a Makita 18V 3.0 pack that I used the cheap replacement board on. It did well. I hope you have good luck with yours as well. I have not had to replace one of the Ridgid packs that way yet.
@@ThriftyToolShed im back. After many hours of trying to desolder the joints(my desolder wick arrives tomorrow) i got the circuit board off and put the new one in. Battery was doing same thing with multi meter and i had to bridge both negatives for it to give me a reading of 4.53. No lights were coming on, not working either. I bridged the negative post to the negative joint and placed on the charger and that jump started the battery since nothing was happening before. Not i have a fully working battery with a $15 circuit board i bought off of ebay. I received it quite fast, 2 weeks. I made some videos of my process maybe i will upload them. Thank you!
Excellent. I would like to see the video for sure. Thanks for the update.
Informative video, but I kept wanting to reach around you and move that battery powered screwdriver out of the way.
I am sure it doesn't help much, but I've moved it since then.... : )
@@ThriftyToolShed LOL!
Great video but what it everything checks out but still won't accept charge.
I assume you have tested the Charger as well. So either tested with another pack or same pack in a different charger? After that, If all cells show balanced and voltage is above around 3v per cell then it could still be in the BMS. If it discharges from the tool fine, but doesn't charge, it's almost always the BMS still. These things are tricky sometimes, best of luck to ya!
EXCELLENT VIDEO, FRIEND
Thank you very much!
What cells 2170?
18650
Do you know what’s causing the battery to shuts off when the battery is under a heavy load? My Ridgid battery shuts off in a fast start. Slow start is fine.
More than likely it's a cell dropping too low. Only way to know for sure is when the pack does that test the cells individually and see if one cell is lower than the others. It has most likely that cell has lost some capacity and dropping to cut out voltage under load.
@@ThriftyToolShed I have taken the cells apart and tested them one by one. The voltage are good. If I read your comment correctly, did you mean I should test each cell’s voltage while the pack is under a load?
@@christopherowens2635
Yes. Under load or if you have load tested them out of the pack with a capacity tester then they may be good. It could be a weird BMS issue?
@@ThriftyToolShed Possibly a bad BMS. The battery pack is only a year old. Can it be bad mosfet? I may be just swap out the entire cells.
@@christopherowens2635 Possibly, I have never seen a Mosfet act that way though. They almost always fail shorted and occasionally open. Seems very rare to drop out without BMS controlling that.
My Rigid pack never said defective and I tested it and was fully charged, and the output contacts put out current. However it would not work in my drill.
I did did what he did at 5:18. Put it back in the drill and worked right away. I gave it a good cleaning. Hope that helps someone
My battery seems to die under pressure but when I tap it, it works again.
Does it flash orange or red led when doing so or not? Does it die and no light at all until you tap it? If no light until you tap it then it could be a bad connection on one of the terminals, cells tab etc. If you get orange LED flashing when cutting off, I would check NTC thermistors or temperature sensing wiring and if flashing red it could be one or more cells pulling low and shutting down. Problem could also reside in BMS board or it's connectors as well.
Like your accent where r u from"thermistors" lol
Georgia
The irony of using a DeWalt toll to fix a Ridgid battery pack
🎉🎉🎉
Hey so i wanted to update you on my battery pack as i think youll get a kick out of this.
After probing several times and coming up empty handed i tried cleaning the board no changes so then for some stupid reason i decided to wave mybpen torch over the board. So i did that fairly lightly just enough to soften the coating and i will be completely damned if that didnt fix it. No idea if it burned some corrosion away or resoldered something but it fixed it. Lol. Weird right.
Yes, indeed. I have never fixed one like that for sure. I have heard of the small packages and BGA chips being fixed with heat in a oven like a reflow, but never done that myself. Thanks for sharing.
What gave me the idea was sitting here trying to figure out how to salvage the batteries. I thought "well youre not going to bake it and pull the board off.... but maybe if i..."
If you had registered the battery with Ridgid all you need to do is call them. They'll send out a new battery NO CHARGE
Unless of course you are the one buying the returned tools from Home Depot....
To add, you can only register batteries when purchased as a kit with tools. The LSA isn't available for batteries purchased separately (like my dead 3.0AHr battery; why I'm here😀)
I can't understand how you did the reset please what are reset and reset
Some battery BMS boards have a spot on the board where a programming header would be for the microcontroller. If the board has that spot sometimes you can see a screen printed abbreviation for the pins. I did see a RST and GND on mine and I simply jumped these 2 pins on the board for just a second. I have seen some boards not have this and some may be abbreviated differently, but similar. For example GND could be COM or VDD etc. I always look for a spot where the header might be on the board. It's usually not too far from the microcontroller. Jumping this helps sometimes because the power is always on the microcontroller and no way to do a power cycle. So this Reset will sometimes help in some cases. Best of luck to ya!
@@ThriftyToolShed Thank you. I found ground, but not the second one. In have 5 octane batteries 3 3amp 2 6am and 1 9amp. I fixed all but the 9amp. Thanks for quick response. The octane one compared to video looks much more complex. Also just realized my vision is not what it used it. So got a magnifying. Glass to see better . actually going to check shortly.
@@ThriftyToolShed I'll look for the rst thats more than enough help
@@ThriftyToolShed Forgot to mention the way I fixed my other 4 batteries was I drained them to about 1 volt by bypassing the terminals and left it for a day. The second I use another 18v battery to start charging it would make a noise. Pretty much my way of resetting for the octane batteries. If you cant find the GND or RST.
Are you saying that you drained the pack down to 1V?
Again we have these as AEG brand in Australia. I've played with hundreds of these batteries. I believe your problem might have been connections on the microprocessor pins on the side of the chip you point to. I have also seen the batteries flash as if they were charging for no reason and eventually draining the battery, again connections on the microprocessor chip which I fixed by reflowing the solder on the pins quickly with my soldering iron (shorting them temporarily doesn't seem to be a problem on that part of the chip). Main weak point on these is the microprocessor goes faulty (all lights flash when button pressed indicating faulty pack), it's a pain but I've replaced the many microprocessor chips with one's from other packs so can confirm the failure. I think it might be heat that damages the processor chip.
If I am correct the AEG is basically identical to these Ridgid. I have had many contacts and conversation with some of the down under over the last few years.
I have 4 batteries that are showing defective on the charger. I own a small carpentry business. I don't know this type of work/repairs on batteries and boards. Can I send you batteries to fix?
I wish I had time, I do get asked this often. I do not have a repiar service at this time. I work full time+ in a Industrial job and try to have time to edit videos to post. I try to help by posting what I have found with a repair. I don't have alot of time left, I wish you the best of luck with yours.
@@ThriftyToolShed thanks. I cant do it and have no time. Great video!
Zoom in darn it
Point taken! Thanks for your comment! If I could turn back time....
The hail mary fix. I hate it when you fux something without ever fixing anything.
Right!
It just bothers me not knowing what it was. I currently have one of these batteries giving me the slip.
I have 18v at the terminals, 4 lights, the charger seems to think its ok. But it wont run a tool. And if i try to use some resistor wire to act as a load there no arc no heat. Not sure if the voltage cuts out as my meter wss in the house and not the shop because it just makes sense that way. Lol. I dunno what the problem is.
@@mds1986ms
That can be a tough one. I have seen it be an issue with board/Mosfets not cutting on fully. I have seen that be a bad cell dropping of really quick and causing the pack to shut down quickly and even once a cell with a bad connection at the spot welded tab causing a similar issue.
@@ThriftyToolShed
Hmm ill use mybold simpson and check each cell. The simpsin analogs put i wanna say 20 ohm load on DC votage test and 10 on AC. digitals dont do that to my knowledge. Much more handing for voltage drop issues.
I guess i could just keep a couple resistors with my meter. Lol
Good job now I need to drop mine off see what you can do with it. SMH. I GOT ZERO POWER
a couple minutes.