You are so easy to listen to, easier to understand I gave up painting 20 years ago because I did not understand colors, I didn't understand a lot of things that u have made simple! Please keep teaching don't ever take down ur Beginning oil painting lessons!
I've only recently found (and subscribed) to your channel but with each video I watch, I am just amazed. So many other people are making "tutorials" in which they are basically showing off their own talent with no real intention of teaching. You, on the other hand, obviously only concern yourself with being truly informative. It is so very impressive and ultimately inspiring. I thank you.
It might be helpful to mention that this medium should only be used for alla prima painting. You would never want to use his to build up a painting in layers. Not only would you risk cracking at some point down the road, but it would be sloooooow going waiting for those layers to dry.
I cannot tell you how much I appreciate your tutorials! I stumbled upon them this morning and I could not be more delighted with all of the skill and information you have so generously shared. Thank you for all of the help!
Your videos are AWESOME!!! I have been painting realism, mostly portraits, on and off for 50 years, (since I was 8, and am now 58) but was really never taught technique, despite majoring in Fine Art in college! Thanks to you and some others here on UA-cam, I am correcting a LOT of mistakes and bad habits that caused me to really fight with the medium and get so frustrated. I am presently watching ALL your free videos on your website, and am learning SO MUCH! And painting, now that I'm back into it is becoming a PLEASURE as a result! Thanks for providing such wonderful, easy to understand material and well made videos. Much Love from New Mexico USA
thank you, i a am beginner and was looking at different videos or learning videos and then i found you Mr. Carder. Again thank you for sharing all this knowledge and informations. Have a nice day.
I wish I'd discovered your channel before! This video about preparing paints is gold - thank you. I only buy small tubes of burnt umber as it always hardens. I am using pliers to squeeze the two tubes I have. As soon as I can get the ingredients, I am switching to your method. THANK YOU.
It is much more thin, like just mineral spirits. The slow dry medium I recommend on the supply list ( linked on the draw mix paint homepage) is a bit like honey so that it helps your paint to flow from the brush. It also covers better as the sharp bristle marks in the paint level out. Burnt umber mixed with liquen dries on the canvas overnight. Mixed the way I recommend it will stay wet for 5 days or more.
excactly what I was thinking. He covers all the basis. I just found his channel and videos tonight. Now I can't stop watching. This kind of help is what people really need.
I really want to thank you for giving us so many aspects of getting ready an art studio from scratch, your help is so precious to us novice...Thank you so much...
Your videos are so well produced & a pleasure to watch. I remember when I was a kid watching some of the painting shows on TV back in the late 70's thru the 80's. Including shows by Bob Ross & Nancy Kominsky. You just don't see these types of shows on TV now, which is why UA-cam channels like this one are so valuable. So great for kids and adults alike. I have an 8 yo niece who has a talent for drawing I'm going to have her check out your videos. I'm sure she will enjoy them a lot. Thanks again
All of your videos that I've watched so far have been excellent, you've got a new subscriber! You've cleared up a lot of the confusion that I had about starting painting with oils. I'm going to have to set aside some time soon to watch through the whole list.
Very good teaching.It answered many queries in the back of my mind. The point about mixing before painting is a good one . My style is relatively rapid with no patience for constant mixing in the mediums etc
I like the way you explain and it's so easy to understand Iam so confused and frustrated about mixing and the consistency of colour that now I feel watching your video is setting me on track thank you so very much for sharing
LOVE the idea of putting all your paint into jars. I always end of braking the lids of my paint tubes. Even if one doesn't mix anything into my paint, just keeping it in jars, would be very handy. I like it!
Loved your video. Just a note, I use plastic white canning jar lids instead of the metal ones. Easy to clean and fits tight. There are a lot of places to buy them. UA-cam won't let me add the link so just do a search for Canning Jar Lids.
umm...people. His name is Mark. Not Mike. Mark Carder to be exact. If you have questions concerning his method of painting, you should join the forum at his website DrawMixPaint(dot)com. Tons more info there. I've just recently joined and am learning so much! Will be making my mediums tonight as well! Good luck everyone!
I spend so much time trying to conserve paint tubes and being paranoid about how much is left; seeing him, then, squeeze out the entire tube of expensive cadmium is so satisfying. Scratches an itch for sure lol
Mario, Those are Regular Mouth (4 oz/115ml.) Tapered Jelly Mason Jars. In the States they are usually used for canning jams, jellies, sauces, mustards and flavored vinegars. Look in a grocers like Tesco. There they are called "preserving jars". Good Luck.
It slows you down, I prefer to put the medium in ahead of time so that I am not constantly adding medium while painting. That allows me to spend more time and focus on getting colors right etc. It is also easier to keep the paint consistency right if you take the time to premix - which is best for maintaining a strong and durable paint film... too much medium here and there can create a weaker paint film. You may want to try it out and see if you like it.
First, thank you for making videos that cover the basics of the basics. I followed the slow dry medium recipe precisely and have gotten every item mixed in but my medium is neither the viscosity nor the color of yours, what did I do wrong? My precise concoction: 20 tsp mineral spirits (Gamsol-100% Odorless Mineral Spirits) 10 tsp stand oil (Gamblin-Stand Oil) 2 tsp refined linseed (Gamblin-Refined Linseed Oil) 10 tsp Venice Turp (Richeson Mediums-imitation Venice Turpentine) 4 tsp oil of cloves (365 Whole Foods-100% Essential Oil Clove Bud) I didn’t realize that the Venice turp was “imitation” until I was listing it here, but it is exactly as described in the list. I could see that being the color difference perhaps but the viscosity shouldn’t change I would think. Edit:The viscosity is close to that of Safflower Oil, similar color as well, but a bit darker. Any insights into this? Does it need to settle for a night or something? Did I get the wrong ingredient somewhere? Thank you in advance.
Hello and thanks a LOT for the invaluable information. On behalf of water mixable oil users, I would like to ask you how would we make a medium like yours using water mixable products. Thank you in advance, your answer would be highly appreciated.
Thank you so much for your teachings. In South Africa, I cannot find Venetian, and Stand Linseed Oil is almost impossible to find too. Are there any other recipes that I could use please? I am very grateful for your free videos, the exchange rate these days are exorbitant, so unfortunately I cannot afford to purchase any of your videos. You are a wonderful teacher, and I truly appreciate the logical explanations that you give for some of the difficult to understand misconceptions, and optical illusions. I have watched most of your videos, some of them more than once, and am truly thankful that I found you!
Thank you so much for teaching this lesson. I lose a lot of paint if I don't use the paint right away. I live alone and have a lot of shores to do. Many times I have left my paint on my palette and it dries very quickly. So, this video has helped me a lot. Thank you Mark so much for your honesty. I really appreciate it.
First of all, thank you for the wonderful tutorial. I am wondering if regular store bought “Vegetable Oil” would be bad to have mixed into the Oil Paint even in low amounts. The reason I ask, is because I have been resting my dirty brushes in a jar of vegetable oil figuring the paint will not dry on the brush while in the oil bath. Next time I am ready to paint, I take the brush out and squeeze as much of the oil out into a rag. Of course there is still a little vegetable oil inside the bristles. Perhaps there is better oil to use for my “brush bath”. I am really loving not having to spend time getting all of the paint off of my brushes every time I am finished with a painting session. I would have a separate bath for brushes with black paint so I don’t contaminate the non black paint brushes.
Thanks Mark for this video and of course for all other videos you make! I learned a lot with them. Can you make a video or a step by step photo set on the creation of the "slow dry medium" recipe itself ? Or it really just is putting in one jare all the component of the recipe all together and mix it, and done ? no special order or mixing technic ? thanks.
I will join to that request, as reading your forum there is few people confused including myself in regards to slow dry medium recipe. If you could do video explaining that it would be great. Thank you Mark
All in this video is accurate if you use that medium that I wish he prepared and sell, I have had colors I prepared in 2016 and have in a small refrigerator in my studio that I use today and they are soft. Although there are only few colors that I am not been able to prepare accurately using Geneva Fine oil colors which are really wonderful like turquoise because I do not know the formula I use a tube and I use the info in this video. All his videos are with seen.
Hi , thanx for uploading these videos.I m kinda new to painting with oil.What I m told is to use medium only on the final stage of the painting. So first and second coats I m adviced to use paint only with thinner .So is it that I can use this recipe only at last on the final stage of the process.
You can something remove from the oil paint, before you add something to it! Namely, you can provide yourself with an absorbent surface, for example made of uncoated cardboard, and then apply the oil paint from the tube to this surface. Kind of like preparing a piece of chocolate bread with a really thick layer of "chocolate" (i.e. oil paint) on top. You can now "rest" this oil paint on this cardboard as long as you like. After a short time, you will see how the cardboard is soaked with oil. It's like a fat trail. You can let the paint sit for 1 hour, 6 hours, or 24 hours. After that, if you want, you can even take an unused piece of uncoated cardboard and repeat this process. This will emit even more oil from the oil paint. Then you can pick up the oil paint again and, for example, fill it into the tube from which you took it. Write a date, when you did it. Before filling, you can add other mediums to the "dried" paint. Kind of like what's shown in this film. So now is your oil paint really fatless!
Mark, I have just begun to use your products but I still have a substantial amount of Winsor Newton oil paints I would like to use up. I have mixed the slow dry mediums based upon the recipes on your site. I noticed that odorless mineral spirits are part of the recipes. I already use Gamsol. Is this safe to use mixing with the paints you have listed?
Can I just add clove oil to makes my colors more runny? I would like to know why I have to make a medium with all these ingredients (linseed oil, venice turpentine, mineral spirits, etc) Thank you so much you're the best teacher ever.
I did this. I now question the clove oil because it overpowers my painting experience. I may be accustomed but it is really strong, and I wish I wouldn't of committed all that paint
how do you get the oil paint so liquefied/fluid without diluting the color/pigments? I would actually like my paint runny but don't want the color to be washed out.. :)
Great video. Some artists talk about creating several different mediums in order to accomplish the thick over thin rule. They start with the thinnest medium and use progressively thicker mediums on subsequent layers. Does this play into what you are teaching? Or is your style somehow different? Here each paint is tied to a single medium, Does this mean you let the painting dry thoroughly before continuing?
I was trying to follow your example here but I may have made a mistake. I used boiled linseed oil instead of the medium you are using. My paints are extremely thick, they are Classic Artist Oils (formally Dana, Triangle Coatings) from quart cans. they were used to paint pictorials on billboards. So they can still stand a bit more thinning. I probably should finish up the thinning process with oil of cloves.?.?.? I have so much of each color, I used pint size jars, I believe you are using half pints.
I see Linseed Oil on many painting videos, mixing videos, paint thinning videos etc. I guess these professionals do not realize that there is 1. Refined Linseed oil. 2. Boiled Linseed Oil and 3.Pure Raw Linseed Oil. I hadn't seen anyone of them tell which of the three that they recommend, or is that because all three Oils work the same way with Oil Paint?
15ml of clove oil for a 37ml tube of paint seems to be way too much according to all opinions I've found on the net. Have you ever had problems with paint not drying properly, inability to remove protective varnish without damaging the paint film, or darkening of the colours after a few years?
I, like many oil artists, use 2 (sometimes 3) different whites. Do I mix zinc white in the same fashion as the other colors or is there a slow drying medium for that as well? I'm assuming titanium white is the exception here. Thank you for your excellent and highly informative tutorials. Fan for life!
Hey Mark. Your videos are great. Have you considered releasing your own range of artist products commercially? Such as your slow dry medium and colour checker...I am sure many people who do not have adequate tools/environment to make these things would be snapping them up. The 'Carder' range...has a ring to it! :)
Hi Mark, just discovered your immaculately informative site and, first things first, have gathered the ingredients together to mix the slow dry medium you recommend. Mineral spirits, the linseed oil and the oil of cloves were not a problem but the stand oil has the consistency of molasses and takes ages to mix (is this normal? How long do you recommend mixing it for... or is it self evident - I want to get it right!) the Venice turpentine, on the other hand is thick as fresh aspic! and, even with heating the bottle in a Bain Mari to soften the stuff up is fraught with problems; like getting it out of the bottle, for starters!!! Due to its viscosity, it was also difficult to measure out the correct amount. There are a few other minor problems but I'm cure you know of them before I type! It there any possibility that you might let us know if there is a right and wrong way of carrying out this essential task and any tips you can offer to allow thickest like me to manage to process in a slightly less arduous way?
Also, is it advisable to store the medium in a coloured (brown or green) bottle once mixed. Is the medium sensitive to light in this form as some oils (olive oil) tend to be?
Very educational for an oil paint beginner. Question, I want very thin paints for what I'm going to do, mix on the canvas so colors will blend and pick up each other with white for one color how do I mix them to that consistency and still keep the paint stable? Thanks
Hello Mike, thnx, interesting movie. I was wondering why you use Venice Turpentine in your medium. The oils kind of take care of the drying time and consistency, so why the resin?
I have a quick question. When you're adding the the slow dry medium is that the recipe from your site or are you just adding the stand oil to the medium in the video? Just need some clarification. Thanks :)
I'm having difficulty with oil simulating bronze painting on a trophy. Its a resin casting with one lite coat krylon primer then krylon gold then oil paint wiped over the piece. Nothing was added to the oil. Then feathered with a brush, which smooth's out the paint revealing the gold underneath. By the next day the paint its mostly dry. However the thin coat of feathered paint has cracked. How do I keep it from doing that?
You are so easy to listen to, easier to understand I gave up painting 20 years ago because I did not understand colors, I didn't understand a lot of things that u have made simple! Please keep teaching don't ever take down ur Beginning oil painting lessons!
1. Should his videos be watched in a particular order? 2. Do you know where the recipe for Slow Dry Medium for Titanium White is?
@amyabarca he displays the link to that recipe on the screen at 8:02
www.drawmixpaint.com/supplylist/international.html#recipe
I've only recently found (and subscribed) to your channel but with each video I watch, I am just amazed. So many other people are making "tutorials" in which they are basically showing off their own talent with no real intention of teaching. You, on the other hand, obviously only concern yourself with being truly informative. It is so very impressive and ultimately inspiring. I thank you.
I haven’t been able to find the recipe for thinning Titanium White on the website.
I apologize. I found it!,
Hands down this is the BEST oil painting series on UA-cam and I've been painting quite a while and I'm learning things I've never heard of before.
I've never seen anyone do anything like this. In terms of taking an entire tube and mixing it like that.
Very interesting.
It might be helpful to mention that this medium should only be used for alla prima painting. You would never want to use his to build up a painting in layers. Not only would you risk cracking at some point down the road, but it would be sloooooow going waiting for those layers to dry.
John Brophy I didn’t even think about this, thanks for the tip this probably saved me a disaster
True, i guess you could thin further when applying the 1st coats. What would be the drying time for the paints he mixes this way i wonder?
Use a drier.
I cannot tell you how much I appreciate your tutorials! I stumbled upon them this morning and I could not be more delighted with all of the skill and information you have so generously shared. Thank you for all of the help!
You are extremely thorough. Very much appreciated in this day and time. You are a great teacher and should be commended for that.
Brilliant! I've always thinned down on the fly. This will allow me to crash straight into painting without any procrastination :)
I am so grateful for your great teaching style and sharing of it. I'm watching everything! Thank you.
Your videos are AWESOME!!! I have been painting realism, mostly portraits, on and off for 50 years, (since I was 8, and am now 58) but was really never taught technique, despite majoring in Fine Art in college! Thanks to you and some others here on UA-cam, I am correcting a LOT of mistakes and bad habits that caused me to really fight with the medium and get so frustrated. I am presently watching ALL your free videos on your website, and am learning SO MUCH! And painting, now that I'm back into it is becoming a PLEASURE as a result! Thanks for providing such wonderful, easy to understand material and well made videos. Much Love from New Mexico USA
thank you, i a am beginner and was looking at different videos or learning videos and then i found you Mr. Carder. Again thank you for sharing all this knowledge and informations. Have a nice day.
I wish I'd discovered your channel before! This video about preparing paints is gold - thank you. I only buy small tubes of burnt umber as it always hardens. I am using pliers to squeeze the two tubes I have. As soon as I can get the ingredients, I am switching to your method. THANK YOU.
It is much more thin, like just mineral spirits. The slow dry medium I recommend on the supply list ( linked on the draw mix paint homepage) is a bit like honey so that it helps your paint to flow from the brush. It also covers better as the sharp bristle marks in the paint level out.
Burnt umber mixed with liquen dries on the canvas overnight. Mixed the way I recommend it will stay wet for 5 days or more.
excactly what I was thinking. He covers all the basis. I just found his channel and videos tonight. Now I can't stop watching. This kind of help is what people really need.
I really want to thank you for giving us so many aspects of getting ready an art studio from scratch, your help is so precious to us novice...Thank you so much...
Your videos are so well produced & a pleasure to watch. I remember when I was a kid watching some of the painting shows on TV back in the late 70's thru the 80's. Including shows by Bob Ross & Nancy Kominsky. You just don't see these types of shows on TV now, which is why UA-cam channels like this one are so valuable. So great for kids and adults alike. I have an 8 yo niece who has a talent for drawing I'm going to have her check out your videos. I'm sure she will enjoy them a lot. Thanks again
SLOW DRY MEDIUM =
10 parts odorless mineral spirits
5 parts stand oil
1 part refined linseed oil
5 parts Venice turpentine
2 parts oil of cloves
Hey Jafaime. Do you can tell me what is the exactly meaning of parts?
@@nikola.trafojer one part = 1 unit (could be an ounce, or a litre... etc)
@@jafaime Thanks
@@jafaime if the stuff has different densities then it matters whether you’re using volume units or mass units. Your recipe is based on volume units?
Why does it have so many ingredients? Can we get away with using less? What is the role of every ingredient in your recipe?
All of your videos that I've watched so far have been excellent, you've got a new subscriber! You've cleared up a lot of the confusion that I had about starting painting with oils. I'm going to have to set aside some time soon to watch through the whole list.
Thank you! It is actually at the Union League Club in Philadelphia, they have a collection of Presidential portraits going back to Lincoln.
This guy knows his stuff.
Very good teaching.It answered many queries in the back of my mind. The point about mixing before painting is a good one . My style is relatively rapid with no patience for constant mixing in the mediums etc
I like the way you explain and it's so easy to understand Iam so confused and frustrated about mixing and the consistency of colour that now I feel watching your video is setting me on track thank you so very much for sharing
LOVE the idea of putting all your paint into jars. I always end of braking the lids of my paint tubes. Even if one doesn't mix anything into my paint, just keeping it in jars, would be very handy. I like it!
Not really a good idea: A half- empty jar contains air inside.. Your normal paint is gonna harden or dry faster..
you are the greatest! I have learned so much from watching your videos and am already seeing an improvement in my work. Thanks.
You and your tools with that lighting looks like a renessance painting yourself!
Loved your video. Just a note, I use plastic white canning jar lids instead of the metal ones. Easy to clean and fits tight. There are a lot of places to buy them. UA-cam won't let me add the link so just do a search for Canning Jar Lids.
thank you for your useful tips! It really helps not repeating so many mistakes.
Thank you so much for the video .
It is very easy to understand .
We can easily do this experiment...
umm...people. His name is Mark. Not Mike. Mark Carder to be exact. If you have questions concerning his method of painting, you should join the forum at his website DrawMixPaint(dot)com.
Tons more info there. I've just recently joined and am learning so much! Will be making my mediums tonight as well! Good luck everyone!
Another very informative video. I have already bought the oil of cloves and will follow your advice.
Thank you so much Mark!! 🙌🌞 I really appreciate your teaching , god bless
I spend so much time trying to conserve paint tubes and being paranoid about how much is left; seeing him, then, squeeze out the entire tube of expensive cadmium is so satisfying. Scratches an itch for sure lol
I use linseed oil and it's good
Happy New Year to you Dave, hope to see you painting soon! :-)
Mario, Those are Regular Mouth (4 oz/115ml.) Tapered Jelly Mason Jars. In the States they are usually used for canning jams, jellies, sauces, mustards and flavored vinegars.
Look in a grocers like Tesco. There they are called "preserving jars". Good Luck.
You are a great artist and teacher....Thanks
It slows you down, I prefer to put the medium in ahead of time so that I am not constantly adding medium while painting. That allows me to spend more time and focus on getting colors right etc. It is also easier to keep the paint consistency right if you take the time to premix - which is best for maintaining a strong and durable paint film... too much medium here and there can create a weaker paint film. You may want to try it out and see if you like it.
great job for the tutorials, are really helpful, We waited some more. Thanks, greetings from Mexico
First, thank you for making videos that cover the basics of the basics.
I followed the slow dry medium recipe precisely and have gotten every item mixed in but my medium is neither the viscosity nor the color of yours, what did I do wrong?
My precise concoction:
20 tsp mineral spirits (Gamsol-100% Odorless Mineral Spirits)
10 tsp stand oil (Gamblin-Stand Oil)
2 tsp refined linseed (Gamblin-Refined Linseed Oil)
10 tsp Venice Turp (Richeson Mediums-imitation Venice Turpentine)
4 tsp oil of cloves (365 Whole Foods-100% Essential Oil Clove Bud)
I didn’t realize that the Venice turp was “imitation” until I was listing it here, but it is exactly as described in the list. I could see that being the color difference perhaps but the viscosity shouldn’t change I would think.
Edit:The viscosity is close to that of Safflower Oil, similar color as well, but a bit darker.
Any insights into this? Does it need to settle for a night or something? Did I get the wrong ingredient somewhere?
Thank you in advance.
why didn't I know your studio when i was in Austin!!?? I will go back to Austin just for your classes one day!
Thank you saxonlight! :-) Makes me happy!
Hello and thanks a LOT for the invaluable information. On behalf of water mixable oil users, I would like to ask you how would we make a medium like yours using water mixable products. Thank you in advance, your answer would be highly appreciated.
Thank you so much for your teachings. In South Africa, I cannot find Venetian, and Stand Linseed Oil is almost impossible to find too. Are there any other recipes that I could use please?
I am very grateful for your free videos, the exchange rate these days are exorbitant, so unfortunately I cannot afford to purchase any of your videos.
You are a wonderful teacher, and I truly appreciate the logical explanations that you give for some of the difficult to understand misconceptions, and optical illusions. I have watched most of your videos, some of them more than once, and am truly thankful that I found you!
Thank you Haytham!
Thank you so much for teaching this lesson. I lose a lot of paint if I don't use the paint right away. I live alone and have a lot of shores to do. Many times I have left my paint on my palette and it dries very quickly. So, this video has helped me a lot. Thank you Mark so much for your honesty. I really appreciate it.
Thank you a lot! Very good advice to follow!
First of all, thank you for the wonderful tutorial. I am wondering if regular store bought “Vegetable Oil” would be bad to have mixed into the Oil Paint even in low amounts. The reason I ask, is because I have been resting my dirty brushes in a jar of vegetable oil figuring the paint will not dry on the brush while in the oil bath. Next time I am ready to paint, I take the brush out and squeeze as much of the oil out into a rag. Of course there is still a little vegetable oil inside the bristles. Perhaps there is better oil to use for my “brush bath”. I am really loving not having to spend time getting all of the paint off of my brushes every time I am finished with a painting session. I would have a separate bath for brushes with black paint so I don’t contaminate the non black paint brushes.
I searched endlessly on your site for the recipe for Slow Dry Medium for Titanium White and couldn't find it.
Thanks Mark for this video and of course for all other videos you make! I learned a lot with them. Can you make a video or a step by step photo set on the creation of the "slow dry medium" recipe itself ? Or it really just is putting in one jare all the component of the recipe all together and mix it, and done ? no special order or mixing technic ? thanks.
I will join to that request, as reading your forum there is few people confused including myself in regards to slow dry medium recipe. If you could do video explaining that it would be great. Thank you Mark
Ti si veoma komplikovan a to su sve poznate stvari .Nsta specijalno nisi rekao .
oh good! I was hoping to see how you do this. That really helps, thank you!
Great advice thank you sir.
very good explanation , thank you
HAPPY NEW YEAR 2013
got all your videos and all the products from your old store
got my studio all done now I need time
I like this idea. Thank you.
Hi, I visited your supply list section of the website as mentioned in the video but there is no information about these mediums and their composition.
All in this video is accurate if you use that medium that I wish he prepared and sell, I have had colors I prepared in 2016 and have in a small refrigerator in my studio that I use today and they are soft. Although there are only few colors that I am not been able to prepare accurately using Geneva Fine oil colors which are really wonderful like turquoise because I do not know the formula I use a tube and I use the info in this video. All his videos are with seen.
Hi , thanx for uploading these videos.I m kinda new to painting with oil.What I m told is to use medium only on the final stage of the painting. So first and second coats I m adviced to use paint only with thinner .So is it that I can use this recipe only at last on the final stage of the process.
You can something remove from the oil paint, before you add something to it! Namely, you can provide yourself with an absorbent surface, for example made of uncoated cardboard, and then apply the oil paint from the tube to this surface. Kind of like preparing a piece of chocolate bread with a really thick layer of "chocolate" (i.e. oil paint) on top.
You can now "rest" this oil paint on this cardboard as long as you like. After a short time, you will see how the cardboard is soaked with oil. It's like a fat trail. You can let the paint sit for 1 hour, 6 hours, or 24 hours. After that, if you want, you can even take an unused piece of uncoated cardboard and repeat this process. This will emit even more oil from the oil paint.
Then you can pick up the oil paint again and, for example, fill it into the tube from which you took it. Write a date, when you did it. Before filling, you can add other mediums to the "dried" paint. Kind of like what's shown in this film.
So now is your oil paint really fatless!
Thank you for this information, my paints are stiff and I kept thinking that maybe I didn't know how to use it 😬
Hi there, Can I instead use Oil Spike of Lavender which should act as a slow drying medium and possibly the Clove oil?
Mark, I have just begun to use your products but I still have a substantial amount of Winsor Newton oil paints I would like to use up. I have mixed the slow dry mediums based upon the recipes on your site. I noticed that odorless mineral spirits are part of the recipes. I already use Gamsol. Is this safe to use mixing with the paints you have listed?
Liquin can be brittle with age. Try liquin mixed with linseed oil.
Can I just add clove oil to makes my colors more runny? I would like to know why I have to make a medium with all these ingredients (linseed oil, venice turpentine, mineral spirits, etc) Thank you so much you're the best teacher ever.
Mo expensive 2.!
I did this. I now question the clove oil because it overpowers my painting experience. I may be accustomed but it is really strong, and I wish I wouldn't of committed all that paint
how do you get the oil paint so liquefied/fluid without diluting the color/pigments? I would actually like my paint runny but don't want the color to be washed out.. :)
Great video. Some artists talk about creating several different mediums in order
to accomplish the thick over thin rule. They start with the thinnest medium and use
progressively thicker mediums on subsequent layers. Does this play into what you
are teaching? Or is your style somehow different? Here each paint is tied to a single
medium, Does this mean you let the painting dry thoroughly before continuing?
thanks for the video..really helpful
brilliant. I'm off to buy some jars and the ingredients for the slow-dri. Thanks
Again, thank you so much for making these videos. I'm disappointed I've just now discovered your channel.
I was trying to follow your example here but I may have made a mistake. I used boiled linseed oil instead of the medium you are using. My paints are extremely thick, they are Classic Artist Oils (formally Dana, Triangle Coatings) from quart cans. they were used to paint pictorials on billboards. So they can still stand a bit more thinning. I probably should finish up the thinning process with oil of cloves.?.?.? I have so much of each color, I used pint size jars, I believe you are using half pints.
Thank you SkotWite! :-)
I see Linseed Oil on many painting videos, mixing videos, paint thinning videos etc. I guess these professionals do not realize that there is 1. Refined Linseed oil. 2. Boiled Linseed Oil and 3.Pure Raw Linseed Oil. I hadn't seen anyone of them tell which of the three that they recommend, or is that because all three Oils work the same way with Oil Paint?
Anthony Hargis the main difference I understand is the color of the oil, which will change the color of the paint
Hi Mark, Thank you for this excellent video. One question: I could not find your recipe for mixing white with medium...
Is it posted somewhere else?
Mark do you still use this recipe? how long does the paint last so it does not dry out?i dont paint very much like every day ,maybe once a month.
Thanks Dale! :-)
15ml of clove oil for a 37ml tube of paint seems to be way too much according to all opinions I've found on the net. Have you ever had problems with paint not drying properly, inability to remove protective varnish without damaging the paint film, or darkening of the colours after a few years?
I, like many oil artists, use 2 (sometimes 3) different whites. Do I mix zinc white in the same fashion as the other colors or is there a slow drying medium for that as well? I'm assuming titanium white is the exception here. Thank you for your excellent and highly informative tutorials. Fan for life!
That was perfect, thank you.
Thanks, great information!
If you’re really a starving artist. Jars can be bought in 3’s in salsa and dip jars for $8.99. Handy for Turpentine.
Very good. Couldn't this be done as you paint along, miniature ly if you will, on the pallet?
Hey Mark. Your videos are great. Have you considered releasing your own range of artist products commercially? Such as your slow dry medium and colour checker...I am sure many people who do not have adequate tools/environment to make these things would be snapping them up. The 'Carder' range...has a ring to it! :)
Jeff Read genevafineart.com :)
Hi Mark, just discovered your immaculately informative site and, first things first, have gathered the ingredients together to mix the slow dry medium you recommend. Mineral spirits, the linseed oil and the oil of cloves were not a problem but the stand oil has the consistency of molasses and takes ages to mix (is this normal? How long do you recommend mixing it for... or is it self evident - I want to get it right!) the Venice turpentine, on the other hand is thick as fresh aspic! and, even with heating the bottle in a Bain Mari to soften the stuff up is fraught with problems; like getting it out of the bottle, for starters!!! Due to its viscosity, it was also difficult to measure out the correct amount. There are a few other minor problems but I'm cure you know of them before I type! It there any possibility that you might let us know if there is a right and wrong way of carrying out this essential task and any tips you can offer to allow thickest like me to manage to process in a slightly less arduous way?
Also, is it advisable to store the medium in a coloured (brown or green) bottle once mixed. Is the medium sensitive to light in this form as some oils (olive oil) tend to be?
thanks
Do you reuse the old jars of paint after you use the paint? How do you wash them out, mineral spirits?
Very educational for an oil paint beginner. Question, I want very thin paints for what I'm going to do, mix on the canvas so colors will blend and pick up each other with white for one color how do I mix them to that consistency and still keep the paint stable? Thanks
Venice Turpentine gives an especial shine to the painting !!! that is why I use also in the medium. I that correct Mark?
Is it the slow dry med. used?
Thank you! This is very interesting stuff.
Is there a special medium formula for Flake White?
Thanks mark, got I wanted
Excellent vid...
The slow dry medium recipe is not at that link. It is in a comment below.
I would like to watch you in a painting, where you started. Show us how to do, if that can be possible.
@drawmixpaint Why I can't just use sunflower oil?
been looking to use a walnut oil as a medium . can u mix a glazing medium using walnut oil.
Yes. Glazing medium isn't complicated. Just mix a wee bit of paint with the walnut oil then glaze.
this is the tutorial i truly needed. thank you.
Hello Mike, thnx, interesting movie. I was wondering why you use Venice Turpentine in your medium. The oils kind of take care of the drying time and consistency, so why the resin?
Good 4 storing.
good channel and videos.
I have a quick question. When you're adding the the slow dry medium is that the recipe from your site or are you just adding the stand oil to the medium in the video? Just need some clarification. Thanks :)
I'm having difficulty with oil simulating bronze painting on a trophy. Its a resin casting with one lite coat krylon primer then krylon gold then oil paint wiped over the piece. Nothing was added to the oil. Then feathered with a brush, which smooth's out the paint revealing the gold underneath. By the next day the paint its mostly dry. However the thin coat of feathered paint has cracked. How do I keep it from doing that?
Thanks a million.