Oh my gosh I have read a lot of comments on here and first off I am probably the only woman on here but I have a 96 Ford f150 and it just now hit 115,000 miles, my dad and I have been the only owners and I have changed starter alternator and on and on and by gosh it's the damn ground!! Maybe if I still had my Dad he would have surely let me know! Thank you so much!!! You just don't know how many years your sparing!!! Ok ok I haven't cried yet but was ready to!!!!
I like that idea. That is one thing that has boggled my mind about Ford cars and trucks of the 70s and 80s, the engineers that decided “Let’s just strip an inch of wire off the ground, put it in a clamp screwed to the frame, then go to the starter.”, as if it wasn’t going to rust and cause voltage issues At least the later designs now ground straight to the starter, then back to the frame
Thanks very much for the help. I'm having the same thing with my f-150 n-w addition 96. I bought and did the same thing 😂 will get back to you you are the man!!!! . Tom g
Thanks for this idea, this helped me out a ton! I’ve been having an issue in my 96 F150 where the truck wouldn’t get past 12v while running and the battery wouldn’t charge past 11.5v, I added this same ground and everything is fixed
@@daniellebond7851 I added the wire he showed going from the negative battery terminal to the alternator bracket. My alternator must have not been getting a good ground so adding the additional ground wire did the trick
I was suspicious of my alternator - I will try this. The alternator final bolt just spins anyway - no tool to get it out as is... so I might as well give this a shot! Thanks so much for posting :)
I've got a 95 F-150 xl 4.9 l and have been having "All kinds of problems" especially with ecu acting all kinds of weird issues and after throwing $ @ it TPS, IAC and tune up. Long story short after doing a lot of online searching it's definitely a ground fault problem. I'm definitely doing this with my truck by the way if you're getting a 512 code from the ECU and your engine is wigging out " CHECK YOUR GROUND WIRE'S " Thanks for the video much appreciated.
She's got 380,000 on her and haven't had any problems until that 512 code came up a couple weeks ago and for the life of me couldn't figure it out until I found a section on ford truck enthusiasts that put me on track of the bad ground problems. She's running good again hopefully I'll make it 1/2 a million miles. ? 😁
My 83 f150 8s not charging at all . I put new alt and volt reg on, and looked at wiring and seems ok, so it must be a ground problem or voltage leak. I may try what you did,but mine doesnt have an alt bracket really.
I have a 96 F150 that all of a sudden would not crank. I went near insane trying to figure out why. An alternator and starter motor later I finally discovered the ground cable had corroded in two down at the bottom. I did what you did. String a heavy gauge wire between the battery ground and a alternator mounting bolt and BOOM, it fired right up. I can't figure out how to get to the mounting bolt on the block so I think I will just leave it as is with a heavier wire.
I’m quickly realizing my issue. I’ve replaced everything to duralast gold, starter alternator and battery. I ran a new ground wire that previously ran from frame then to block, but the new wire does not have the splice for the frame. I will add a secondary ground to my alternator to hopefully fully ground the circuit. Parts store diagnosed me at a bad voltage regulator but the Duralast Gold should have a built in regulator, considering it’s new and factory tested I highly doubt that is the case.
I have had to replace or get alt. on my 96 E350 RV 6 of the last 7 years. It shows 8 volts in spring. May try this. I do keep a 1.5 watt solar charger on it for winter.
I'm sitting in a harbor freight parking lot right now trying to figure out why my 1981 f150 will not start. I changed the alternator and the battery and went through the wiring but it still seems to be grounding out. I'm in the mountains in Tennessee I drove probably I'd say fifteen Miles to hear and from home to hear the truck will not restart at the light it's scaring the crap out of me. Any instruction would be great buddy🙏
Question, my son’s 1987 ford ranger 2.3, the negative terminal got hot and melted. Is that a bad ground and do I do what you did or replace the whole wire?
My 85 Ford f250 diesel 4 wheel drive I got a alternator from advance and its putting out 15.4 and its burning my wires that goes from my alternator to that thing mounted on side of my fender into what do I need to do
I have a starting problem with my 97 F-250 HD 460 big block. I had the same problem in my F-350. I put a direct ground from the negative terminal on the battery to the throttle body, and the truck started fine. I'm not sure if anyone else has had this issue, please let me know your experience or thoughts.
Okay I am somewhat at an understanding but on my 91 f-150 lariat the positive terminal on the starting solenoid is what’s getting so hot. I drove for 10 minutes and noticed something happened and realized I wasn’t running with my battery anymore and the positive post on the solenoid melted out and my ground from body to batter melted too but it’s thin wire
From 1 ford man to another i gotta 82 full-size bronco. I have no power lights anywhere BT can start it from selinoid if someone turns the switch replaced selinoid no fix What next any suggestions?
It sounds like you have a grounding issue ontop of the selector box on the steering wheel gone bad (actually selects between Start, Run, Accessory and Off)
I have a power drain. Took all fuses out and still draining power. Tiny arc when I connect or disconnect the positive cable to the battery. 1973 F100. Any ideas?
Put a volt meter between your pos battery connection and your battery to see how much amps you are pulling then unplug your alternator and see if the drain goes away. If it does its your alternator
First thing I did was put an extra ground wire from the battery to the starter. I was not having this problem, my problem is something else, I keep losing power to the ignition switch, but extra grounds never hurt
@@TheFSeries hey mane my 88 Chevy is sluggish starting an I put a big new battery and it turn over several Xtra seconds befo it fires up. What is yo thoughts g
@@TheFSeries great video! Did you find that your original ground would still give the ability to charge the battery but not enough to keep up? The reason I ask is, I noticed that I was experience gauge jumping after I'd charged the battery, I've never seen that with a bad alternator. So I replaced the top post that plugs into the alternator, as I'd heard that they would burn up over time. I have an 89 f350 so I figured it might be the issue. I drove the truck 90 miles on a fresh charge, thought I fixed it! Then, I began losing power again. That's definitely not a bad alternator. So I cleaned all the grounds and I'm hoping for the best but after watching this, I'm thinking I might try it. As, the little grounds (original) are looking kinda beat up. Thoughts? Thanks!
I have a 1981 f250 with the inline 6. My battery won't stay charged I replaced the voltage regulator. Still the same thing battery won't charge. But I have no grounds coming off my battery. Just the one from the starter to the battery and one from the starter solenoid to the battery. I tried putting a ground from the alternator to the battery and it didn't do anything. Any ideas?
My dad has a 1993 Ford f150 4.9 and it wouldn't start from the inside of the truck we gotta try too start it from the Soidnoid on the firewall and when we do the Soidnoid start smoking and the starter keep going bad think we have a short but don't know we're I look up and we don't have fuel pressure and the turn stop working and they magically started working I was told the alternator is bad any suggestions?
Hello, have a similar problem. Smelled something like wires burning from the alternator, solenoid, starter side. Truck cranks but no fuel pressure. Replaced fuel pump, swapped computer pcm still no luck what was your problem please?
electricity follows the path of least resistance, I'd redo your grounds to the block and frame with some new thick wire. Also the alternator you have is known to cause fires at the plug I'd suggest replacing it with a 3G unit.
I did the same thing. I put the negative cable where the altenator bolts to the block but as far away as I could from the exhaust. I then ran a 10 gauge wire from the altenator (where he has the ground wire going) to the body.
Load test battery... and regardless Jumpstart w cables from another vehicle or battery charger and see if fires up any faster! If it does start cleaning up grounds or add ground as in video.
Do I still need to ground the negative cable to the frame or grounding it to the alternator is enough ?? My negative cable does not have a splice in the middle like the OM Cable did so now I’m having a hard time grounding wire
Get rid of that junk fire hazzard alternator ,replace with generation 3 alternator, for 92 thru 96 f150 . The six cylinder 95 amp version is a direct bolt in using original belt. All you need is the gen.3 alternator wiring harness and it attaches to the starter solenoid just like the old alternator. I used the large case 130 amp generation 3 on my 88 4.9 it bolts to the bracket using the fender side hole in the bracket, to the left of the original upper mount hole . It uses a slightly longer belt . The old alternators were prone to main pigtail melt and the 75 amp was a little short of keeping up . No problems since changing to the gen. 3 alternator. Unlike the original its battery charging output cable is attached to a stud with a nut, instead of that problematic slide on spade terminal.
My F-150 starts runs and idles great but when you try to drive it it jumps and bucks done replaced 2 fuel pump ever sensor are known to man could it be a bad ground? Need help with this anyone please thanks
@@TheFSeries my 93 ranger did that in the rainy spring and I think it was the corrosion on the coil wire. Before I found that I changed the spark plugs and must have broke a plug slightly and the mechanic found that out for me.
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No you need to have the capacitors changed in your ecm. They go bad causing these issues. Guarantee if you pull your computer it’ll have two leaking and corroded or blown 47uf capacitors and one leaking and corroded or blown 10uf capacitor.
Not on these, not directly. The ground cable goes to the frame, where it’s stripped about an inch and run through a clamp screwed to the frame, then on to the starter. There’s a ground strap from the block to the firewall. That frame clamp is notorious for rust and corrosion.
Oh my gosh I have read a lot of comments on here and first off I am probably the only woman on here but I have a 96 Ford f150 and it just now hit 115,000 miles, my dad and I have been the only owners and I have changed starter alternator and on and on and by gosh it's the damn ground!! Maybe if I still had my Dad he would have surely let me know! Thank you so much!!! You just don't know how many years your sparing!!! Ok ok I haven't cried yet but was ready to!!!!
Glad to help! If there is anything you think would help if I covered it, feel free to toss it out there.
I like that idea.
That is one thing that has boggled my mind about Ford cars and trucks of the 70s and 80s, the engineers that decided “Let’s just strip an inch of wire off the ground, put it in a clamp screwed to the frame, then go to the starter.”, as if it wasn’t going to rust and cause voltage issues
At least the later designs now ground straight to the starter, then back to the frame
Thank you for the video. I had the same issue on my 90' f150. I did exactly what you did and it solved the issue.
What Guage wire
Thanks very much for the help. I'm having the same thing with my f-150 n-w addition 96. I bought and did the same thing 😂 will get back to you you are the man!!!! . Tom g
Thanks for this idea, this helped me out a ton! I’ve been having an issue in my 96 F150 where the truck wouldn’t get past 12v while running and the battery wouldn’t charge past 11.5v, I added this same ground and everything is fixed
Sounds like you're having the same issues as me. So all you had to do was add that ground wire from the battery to the wall?
@@daniellebond7851 I added the wire he showed going from the negative battery terminal to the alternator bracket. My alternator must have not been getting a good ground so adding the additional ground wire did the trick
I had the same issue!! I will definitely try this! Thanks for the video
This is the only video/written reference to the negative cable having the frame ground.
Who has the best place to recieve printout of grounds for the 90's f150s
I was suspicious of my alternator - I will try this. The alternator final bolt just spins anyway - no tool to get it out as is... so I might as well give this a shot! Thanks so much for posting :)
Funny thing is electrons are actually flowing from ground to positive. Good job this helps a ton though with a good connection
I've got a 95 F-150 xl 4.9 l and have been having "All kinds of problems" especially with ecu acting all kinds of weird issues and after throwing $ @ it TPS, IAC and tune up.
Long story short after doing a lot of online searching it's definitely a ground fault problem. I'm definitely doing this with my truck by the way if you're getting a 512 code from the ECU and your engine is wigging out " CHECK YOUR GROUND WIRE'S "
Thanks for the video much appreciated.
Thanks for the info!
My recommendation is to clean the grounds once a year or so.
She's got 380,000 on her and haven't had any problems until that 512 code came up a couple weeks ago and for the life of me couldn't figure it out until I found a section on ford truck enthusiasts that put me on track of the bad ground problems. She's running good again hopefully I'll make it 1/2 a million miles. ? 😁
Mine has 314k and still drives fine.
I'm SideWinder4.9l on FTE by the way!
What size turbo. ?
I've got a Garrett 52 not installed but I'm planning on rebuilding the 4.9 in the near future.
No turbo on mine
My 83 f150 8s not charging at all . I put new alt and volt reg on, and looked at wiring and seems ok, so it must be a ground problem or voltage leak. I may try what you did,but mine doesnt have an alt bracket really.
I have a 96 F150 that all of a sudden would not crank. I went near insane trying to figure out why. An alternator and starter motor later I finally discovered the ground cable had corroded in two down at the bottom. I did what you did. String a heavy gauge wire between the battery ground and a alternator mounting bolt and BOOM, it fired right up. I can't figure out how to get to the mounting bolt on the block so I think I will just leave it as is with a heavier wire.
I’m quickly realizing my issue. I’ve replaced everything to duralast gold, starter alternator and battery. I ran a new ground wire that previously ran from frame then to block, but the new wire does not have the splice for the frame. I will add a secondary ground to my alternator to hopefully fully ground the circuit.
Parts store diagnosed me at a bad voltage regulator but the Duralast Gold should have a built in regulator, considering it’s new and factory tested I highly doubt that is the case.
Did that fix your problem my wire does not have a splice either trying to find the best way to ground my negative wire to the frame
I have had to replace or get alt. on my 96 E350 RV 6 of the last 7 years. It shows 8 volts in spring. May try this. I do keep a 1.5 watt solar charger on it for winter.
I'm sitting in a harbor freight parking lot right now trying to figure out why my 1981 f150 will not start. I changed the alternator and the battery and went through the wiring but it still seems to be grounding out. I'm in the mountains in Tennessee I drove probably I'd say fifteen Miles to hear and from home to hear the truck will not restart at the light it's scaring the crap out of me.
Any instruction would be great buddy🙏
What engine, etc?
Does the engine dying only occur after full engine warm up? If so, check the coil, TFI setup on the distributor (heatsoak kills it)
Question, my son’s 1987 ford ranger 2.3, the negative terminal got hot and melted. Is that a bad ground and do I do what you did or replace the whole wire?
My 85 Ford f250 diesel 4 wheel drive I got a alternator from advance and its putting out 15.4 and its burning my wires that goes from my alternator to that thing mounted on side of my fender into what do I need to do
Sounds like the voltage regulator is bad, if it is, swap it and you should be fine.
I have a starting problem with my 97 F-250 HD 460 big block. I had the same problem in my F-350. I put a direct ground from the negative terminal on the battery to the throttle body, and the truck started fine. I'm not sure if anyone else has had this issue, please let me know your experience or thoughts.
Is there any map locations for ALL engine grounds on the 4.9 i have been having trouble finding the issue with mine.
I have 16 2017 pennies with the p ment mark and 6 with the D mint mark
Okay I am somewhat at an understanding but on my 91 f-150 lariat the positive terminal on the starting solenoid is what’s getting so hot. I drove for 10 minutes and noticed something happened and realized I wasn’t running with my battery anymore and the positive post on the solenoid melted out and my ground from body to batter melted too but it’s thin wire
Something has shorted/crossed over and caused the terminal to get hot, then.
I’ve got a 1984 f350 pickup and when I go to start it the lights come on then go back out and it doesn’t even turn over it’s just a thud
Been trying to wire up the altenator and voltage box both the right way any help would be appreciated thank ya
From 1 ford man to another i gotta 82 full-size bronco. I have no power lights anywhere BT can start it from selinoid if someone turns the switch replaced selinoid no fix What next any suggestions?
It sounds like you have a grounding issue ontop of the selector box on the steering wheel gone bad (actually selects between Start, Run, Accessory and Off)
The F-Series How would i fix that
Check ignition switch and body. Grounds
I have a power drain. Took all fuses out and still draining power. Tiny arc when I connect or disconnect the positive cable to the battery. 1973 F100. Any ideas?
check your ignition system
Put a volt meter between your pos battery connection and your battery to see how much amps you are pulling then unplug your alternator and see if the drain goes away. If it does its your alternator
can you connect the ground to a ground strap?
Great idea it's nice to see someone thinking
First thing I did was put an extra ground wire from the battery to the starter. I was not having this problem, my problem is something else, I keep losing power to the ignition switch, but extra grounds never hurt
Voltage is nothing without solid grounds. Multiple grounds. Everything needs grounded. Distributor,coil,EGM, ICM, body.
I have a 96 5.8 and my starter has no ground wire, do I need one?
Probably wouldn’t hurt
@@TheFSeries hey mane my 88 Chevy is sluggish starting an I put a big new battery and it turn over several Xtra seconds befo it fires up. What is yo thoughts g
Did you had a AMP battery light flash on the dash? If you did? Did that fixed?
Any harm in adding a extrs ground to the alt from negative post? What about coil pack ground?
As long as positive and negative don't get crossed
@@TheFSeries great video! Did you find that your original ground would still give the ability to charge the battery but not enough to keep up? The reason I ask is, I noticed that I was experience gauge jumping after I'd charged the battery, I've never seen that with a bad alternator. So I replaced the top post that plugs into the alternator, as I'd heard that they would burn up over time. I have an 89 f350 so I figured it might be the issue. I drove the truck 90 miles on a fresh charge, thought I fixed it! Then, I began losing power again. That's definitely not a bad alternator. So I cleaned all the grounds and I'm hoping for the best but after watching this, I'm thinking I might try it. As, the little grounds (original) are looking kinda beat up. Thoughts? Thanks!
You sound like Eugene from The Walking Dead😂😂😂💪🏽💪🏽💪🏽🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥
I get that so much….:/
I have a 1981 f250 with the inline 6. My battery won't stay charged I replaced the voltage regulator. Still the same thing battery won't charge. But I have no grounds coming off my battery. Just the one from the starter to the battery and one from the starter solenoid to the battery. I tried putting a ground from the alternator to the battery and it didn't do anything. Any ideas?
Have you confirmed the alternator is actually working? That it's producing 14v or so?
😂 yes get a volt meter, test alternator and quit guessing ... never understand why people just start replacing sheet ..wasting money that's not mine😂
My dad has a 1993 Ford f150 4.9 and it wouldn't start from the inside of the truck we gotta try too start it from the Soidnoid on the firewall and when we do the Soidnoid start smoking and the starter keep going bad think we have a short but don't know we're I look up and we don't have fuel pressure and the turn stop working and they magically started working I was told the alternator is bad any suggestions?
Hello, have a similar problem. Smelled something like wires burning from the alternator, solenoid, starter side. Truck cranks but no fuel pressure. Replaced fuel pump, swapped computer pcm still no luck what was your problem please?
Same truck 94 4.9
electricity follows the path of least resistance, I'd redo your grounds to the block and frame with some new thick wire. Also the alternator you have is known to cause fires at the plug I'd suggest replacing it with a 3G unit.
I did the same thing. I put the negative cable where the altenator bolts to the block but as far away as I could from the exhaust. I then ran a 10 gauge wire from the altenator (where he has the ground wire going) to the body.
is the orig ground wire not connected now?
It was; just was adding more.
@@TheFSeries ok got ya
My 88 Chevy is sluggish starting, could it be a ground wire.
Possible; could be a worn out starter also
Load test battery... and regardless Jumpstart w cables from another vehicle or battery charger and see if fires up any faster! If it does start cleaning up grounds or add ground as in video.
Listen to her purrrrr😊❤
Where can I find the bolt that mounts to the fender
Any parts store should have them in stock
Do I still need to ground the negative cable to the frame or grounding it to the alternator is enough ?? My negative cable does not have a splice in the middle like the OM Cable did so now I’m having a hard time grounding wire
Yes, you need that cable to the ground to help things like lights, etc to do their jobs without issues
Get rid of that junk fire hazzard alternator ,replace with generation 3 alternator, for 92 thru 96 f150 . The six cylinder 95 amp version is a direct bolt in using original belt. All you need is the gen.3 alternator wiring harness and it attaches to the starter solenoid just like the old alternator. I used the large case 130 amp generation 3 on my 88 4.9 it bolts to the bracket using the fender side hole in the bracket, to the left of the original upper mount hole . It uses a slightly longer belt . The old alternators were prone to main pigtail melt and the 75 amp was a little short of keeping up . No problems since changing to the gen. 3 alternator. Unlike the original its battery charging output cable is attached to a stud with a nut, instead of that problematic slide on spade terminal.
Having trouble with mine when turn the headlights on it will drain the battery and when u let it sit there idler it's fine
Sounds like a short somewhere, my first guess would be the headlight switch since it only does it when they're ON
My F-150 starts runs and idles great but when you try to drive it it jumps and bucks done replaced 2 fuel pump ever sensor are known to man could it be a bad ground? Need help with this anyone please thanks
Have you changed the fuel filter yet?
@@TheFSeries my 93 ranger did that in the rainy spring and I think it was the corrosion on the coil wire. Before I found that I changed the spark plugs and must have broke a plug slightly and the mechanic found that out for me.
No you need to have the capacitors changed in your ecm. They go bad causing these issues. Guarantee if you pull your computer it’ll have two leaking and corroded or blown 47uf capacitors and one leaking and corroded or blown 10uf capacitor.
Why are we not upgrading the charge wire I have 0 gauge from battery to alternator
I did the same thing. 0 gauge OFC from alternator to battery, and the same for the battery and engine grounds.
Usually the ground cable is bolted onto the engine
Not on these, not directly. The ground cable goes to the frame, where it’s stripped about an inch and run through a clamp screwed to the frame, then on to the starter.
There’s a ground strap from the block to the firewall.
That frame clamp is notorious for rust and corrosion.
Thank you and have you ever seen the Walking Dead? Your voice is DEAD on one of the characters!
I'm well aware of how I sound like Eugene....lmao
"Dolphin Smooth!"
i’m having a hard time starting my 84 f150
Never hurts to add an extra ground .
What Guage wire
I think I used either a 4g or 6g wire
7
Dude go back to school
You never left. Third grade has been a long haul for you. And it has never ended.
Love the 5 rib belt on a 6 rib pulley