It’s Colorado so I was a little nervous and then got over it. Our humidity is super low. I really wanted to do steel studs too but didn’t want to mess with the issues of attaching all the tongue and groove to steel studs. Good luck man!
Looks great but question: What are you doing for wall channel ventilation? That stuff works great but is not vapor permeable which means it's a vapor barrier between the interior and exterior metal (i.e. sweat on the interior metal with temp change). Isn't that a scenario for wall mold? Im not sure but wondering if it instead (with you interior insulation) would not pose any issue with sweat and work as intended?
Good morning. Here’s my logic as interior sweat was always a concern of mine too. The interior side of the corrugation is only going to sweat if 1) there’s available moisture inside reaching the metal and 2) the interior metal is a lot warmer than exterior side of metal. The prodex went in first with all seams taped. Then covered with traditional R13 fiberglass with faced vapor barrier too. Interior heat and moisture should never reach the interior side of corrugation. I have two backup plans. 1) there’s a small weep hole drilled in the corrugation below each window. And the original container vents are left in the top of the container walls. 2) I live in Colorado where humidity is less than 20%. Even with no insulation at all, i was able to heat and work in containers with no condensation.
@@chrislyles2443 Thank you for the detail. That is a huge help. I am in North TX and building out my first one where I'll spend significant time in it (utility/office/guest house). I have been trying to find a cost effective and idiot proof insulation method due to our extremes and high humidity in summer. I had settled on insulation board against container then frame inside with no further insulation after sealing walls. Leave existing vents and maybe add one more in the utility space. I was concerned about the sweating so moved to spray foam but that will cost at least a quarter more in price which effectively prevents any sweating, but poses it's own challenges along side added cost. Thanks for sharing. 😃
Spray foam will definitely do the trick. But I was concerned about cost and nobody wants to come to my container location. It’s wayyyy up in the woods. I also put a very hefty exhaust fan in bathroom to evacuate moist air. Good luck. Stay in touch if you need any more advice. Happy to help. We are currently moving into ours!
Your brave, I was nervous about wood absorbing moisture so I did steel stud framing and spray foam.
It’s Colorado so I was a little nervous and then got over it. Our humidity is super low. I really wanted to do steel studs too but didn’t want to mess with the issues of attaching all the tongue and groove to steel studs. Good luck man!
@@chrislyles2443 we’re in the high country of Utah. I understand not being able to set the wood on steel studs.
Thank you
Looks great but question: What are you doing for wall channel ventilation? That stuff works great but is not vapor permeable which means it's a vapor barrier between the interior and exterior metal (i.e. sweat on the interior metal with temp change). Isn't that a scenario for wall mold? Im not sure but wondering if it instead (with you interior insulation) would not pose any issue with sweat and work as intended?
Good morning. Here’s my logic as interior sweat was always a concern of mine too. The interior side of the corrugation is only going to sweat if 1) there’s available moisture inside reaching the metal and 2) the interior metal is a lot warmer than exterior side of metal. The prodex went in first with all seams taped. Then covered with traditional R13 fiberglass with faced vapor barrier too. Interior heat and moisture should never reach the interior side of corrugation. I have two backup plans. 1) there’s a small weep hole drilled in the corrugation below each window. And the original container vents are left in the top of the container walls. 2) I live in Colorado where humidity is less than 20%. Even with no insulation at all, i was able to heat and work in containers with no condensation.
@@chrislyles2443 Thank you for the detail. That is a huge help. I am in North TX and building out my first one where I'll spend significant time in it (utility/office/guest house). I have been trying to find a cost effective and idiot proof insulation method due to our extremes and high humidity in summer. I had settled on insulation board against container then frame inside with no further insulation after sealing walls. Leave existing vents and maybe add one more in the utility space. I was concerned about the sweating so moved to spray foam but that will cost at least a quarter more in price which effectively prevents any sweating, but poses it's own challenges along side added cost. Thanks for sharing. 😃
Spray foam will definitely do the trick. But I was concerned about cost and nobody wants to come to my container location. It’s wayyyy up in the woods. I also put a very hefty exhaust fan in bathroom to evacuate moist air. Good luck. Stay in touch if you need any more advice. Happy to help. We are currently moving into ours!
Looks nice, what area are you at ?