Kodak Tri-X 400 Black and White Film Review | All about Film
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- Опубліковано 8 кві 2017
- Kodak's Tri-X 400 dates back to the 1940s and has a robust, strong research DNA that resulted in a film with excellent image qualities, the ability to see light well into the UV range, and a tolerance for abuse that makes it possible to shoot it at virtually any realistic ISO. This video presents more than 150 sample photos developed using 24 different developer and ISO combinations over a three-year span. The results show the film working well and not so well. This video's goal is to educate and inform Kodak Tri-X 400 users and help them recognize what the film can and cannot do.
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Video Subject Index:
Skip the Intro: 0:36
Film Type: 0:37
Rated ISO: 1:07
Available Formats: 1:42
Subjective Film Characteristics: 1:48
Spectral Sensitivity: 7:10
Characteristic Curve: 19:19
Reciprocity Failure: 12:27
Contrast Curve: 14:32
Recommended Developers: 15:32
Developers to Avoid: 16:05
Development Latitude: 16:34
Recommended Camera Settings: 17:36
Sample Photos and Thoughts: 19:00
Sample Photo Index:
D-76 Stock, 400 ISO: 1:53
D-76 1+1, 400 ISO: 2:25
D-76 1+3, 400 ISO: 3:49
L110 1+31 (HC110 Dilution B), 400 ISO: 4:05
RPX-D 1+15, 400 ISO: 4:40
Ultrafin Plus 1+6, 400 ISO: 5:01
Unknown Developer and Time, Likely D-76 Stock for 12:30), 400 ISO: 5:17
D-76 Stock, 800 ISO: 5:33
D-76 Stock, 1600 ISO, 5:49
D-76 1+1, 800 ISO, for 10 minutes: 6:32
D-76 1+1, 800 ISO, for 14 minutes: 6:56
D-76 1+1, 1600 ISO: 8:19
D-76 1+1, 3200 ISO: 8:31
D-76 1+3, 200 ISO: 8:47
Ilfosol 3 1+14, 3200 ISO: 12:52
Rodinal 1+25, 3200 ISO: 13:13
L110 1+31 (HC110 Dilution B), 3200 ISO: 15:39
Rodinal 1+50, 6400 ISO: 15:47
Rodinal 1+50, 3125 ISO: 16:10
Rodinal 1+50, 800 ISO: 16:40
Rodinal 1+50, 3200 ISO: 17:10
Rodinal 1+100 (Stand), 800 ISO: 18:05
Rodinal 1+100 (Stand), 1600 ISO: 18:19
Rodinal 1+100 (Stand), 3200 ISO: 18:38
References:
imaging.kodakalaris.com/sites/...
www.digitaltruth.com/devchart....
www.apug.org/forums/forum.php
istillshootfilm.org/
www.filmsnotdead.com/
plus.google.com/u/0/communiti...
www.sprawls.org/ppmi2/FILMCON
motion.kodak.com/motion/upload...
motion.kodak.com/motion/upload...
www.covingtoninnovations.com/d...
home.comcast.net/~amitphotogra...
www.nfsa.gov.au/preservation/h...
Really, really beautiful - David. Lots of info - so will need to watch over and over again to get as much as I can from it. Took a lot of notes! Love the sample photographs also. I can't say too much about how much I enjoyed your report on my old friend, Tri-X!
I just got into film photography and I’ve learned so much from this video. Thanks so much!
Awesome video, very detailed and very informative. Thank you so much for taking the time to make this video 👍😎
This guy is a complete nerd... and I like it!
Great vid David. Thanks. Love these film vids.
Thank you so much, learned and understood so many things, would love if you could do one with Portra 400
Great review on my favorite black and white film. I cannot count how many rolls of that stuff I exposed. I used to have my own dark room equipment where I could experiment. I had similar result with pushing it as well. Film is a lost art. I remember we were limited in tools to recover any shot taken. You hoped that your in-camera meter was correct or you had a lot of dark room work to do. I look back and remember a sense of accomplishment when I produced a great image. It was work and sometimes luck. The luxury of instantly checking if the shot was good did not exist. We bracketed and that was as good as we could do in the field. I remember trying T-MAX 400 when it came out. I freaked out after I developed my first roll because the negatives looked purple. I shot several rolls of that stuff but did not like the contrast or tunes that it delivered. Maybe I was biased because I was so used to Tri-X. Thanks for the memory lane. I still have my film cameras but no ways to process the rolls myself. I never liked the results I got from sending it out for processing.
Great review. I just shot my first roll of Tri-x last month. I was surprised how much I liked it being that when it comes to Kodak I've mostly shot Tmax. I will definitely buy mote in the future.
I used tons of both Tri-X and Plus-X in the 70's and 80's. Both great stuff.
Thanks so much David. This is the best video article I have ever seen about TX 400. It's been my favorite film for 35 years. I've tried Ilford I've tried others and I just keep coming back to it for all the reasons you outlined in your video. I used to work in the dark room and develop and print all my own stuff I don't do that anymore. I lost access to my dark room and never went back because I found a young whippersnapper who's really great in the dark room. One of the things I've learned about trikes 400, and I would like to hear your comments about this, is I pull it to 200 to punch up the contrast. Sometimes I shoot that without a filter, but if I want it really punch here I put a green filter on it or a red one for clouds and to turn red into white. when I turn the film in I don't mention that I pulled it. I just say hey process it with d76 and let me know when it's ready for pickup. And I get some beautiful negatives. Am I crazy?
Much prefer this over HP5+. The grain, contrast and mid tones are better in every way IMO. Very versatile film and is my favourite old-school grain ISO 400 film. Wish I could get it in 100ft over the pond.
Your my hero David. Thanks for all the hard work.
Thank you for making this.
Thanks so much for this, David. My All-time Stars from Kodak since Teenager Days are: 1) Kodak T-Max 100, 2) Tri-X 400/TX-400 3) Kodak Ektar 100
That must have taken you ages to make - a lot of work invested there and for that I thank you. Great job.
This is so good! Please make one on Ilford Hp5
Very thorough, yet entertaining. Perfect example that grain is not as strictly connected with sharpness as commonly assumed.
wow, very nice video!
Excellent informative video! TRI-X is the only film which gives me good shadow detail while maintaining plenty of detail in the highlights. I use Ilfotec LC29, when I've exposed it at ISO 400 and Rodinal
Exposure recommendations for normal use: Set incident meter at 400. For bright sunlight or other high-contrast scenes, put the meter in shadow, take a reading, and set the camera to one-half stop less exposure. For example, if the meter indicates f/11 at 125, set the camera to f/13 at 125. For medium contrast, say a bright cloudy day with soft shadows, take a reading in shadow and set the camera to the meter's indicated exposure. For low contrast scenes (full shade for example) give one-half stop more exposure than indicated. Actual indicated exposure will probably work, but the extra half-stop protects against small errors. If you're tied to auto exposure, rating it at 125 will always produce an excellent negative, but the density will vary depending on lighting. Using the incident/shadow method will produce negatives of consistent density. Like you, I love Tri-X. It contends with Ektachrome 100(EPN) as the best film Kodak ever made. I never tried to push it, but I'm tempted to try it just for fun.