If it were possible to agree more I would 🫡 My only question is HOW! There have been many suggestions of routines and contraptions to bleed the system. I’m not convinced this car is air pocket free. What do you suggest as the ULTIMATE solution?? Thank you for watching 🤘😎
I would just drive the car with the burping valve open for a while making sure that gets to optimal temperature. That should get rid of your air pockets most of the time since you only bled a small portion of the total coolant.
@@N911GT2 Agreed this is the best process, though this means draining down almost the whole system (5 gallons-ish) and refilling. Otherwise you get a hell of a coolant bath pulling the vacuum!
Absolutely, that is great advice 🙌 The B+ junction box and the Y-Cable are definitely problem areas on these cars. In this case 3 things pointed away from this being the problem. 1. The hot-start issue would only occur on the first start after being left to sit for 30-45 minutes. After that it would continue to start just fine despite being just as heat soaked. 2. I did a voltage drop test and found the reading to be normal 3. After connecting a fuel pressure gauge it became apparent that my issue was fuel pressure related. Thank you for watching and contributing 🤘😎
How many miles do you have on your rebuild by now? My right rear tail light had a crack excatly like yours untill I found a replacement on ebay, I believe this is another common problem with these cars😖
Well Don Esper, the cat is probably out of the bag on that one due to a recent UA-cam community post. The car had almost exactly 160k when it died in the hands of owner “B”. That whole rear light cracking situation is apparently the norm on these cars. There is a teenage industrial engineer out there right now who could throw that design in an app and tell you the stress points in these bloody rear lenses. For me, the joy was in the engine. If the rat rod nature of this car offends people, bring it on. Thank YOU for being a part of the team 🤘😎
With an OG like yourself I cannot pretend that the issue has not been resolved 🫡. It was a fuel pressure gauge on the fuel rail and the collective brain power of you awesome Humans 🙌 that lead to the final resolution. Stay tuned. Message me if you just gotta know 😉
Is the coolant sensor plugged into the oil pump console, where the coolant flows round the oil pump? On a side note, can you tell me whether it's possible to replace the oil pressure relief valve spring and plunger directly from under the engine or are there lots of bits and pieces in the way that need to be removed to get access? Thanks
Hello Pjay, yes the cooland sensor plugs into oil pump console area. I replaced the oil pressure plunger in a two part oil system video series. There is some dismantling to get access to it. Thank you fir watching 🤘😎 PORSCHE 911 Oil System Operation, Overhaul & Upgrades PART 1 ua-cam.com/video/rgVfPM68voI/v-deo.html PORSCHE 911 Oil System Operation, Overhaul & Upgrades PART 2 ua-cam.com/video/QOXbHqE0SfU/v-deo.html
Awesome!
Let’s hope so! 😅
Hi, can someone tell me how to change the Coolant Air Bleeder Valve? Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance!
You need to bleed the coolant system. For sure you will have air pockets now. 911’s are a pain to bleed but the alternative is worse. 😅
If it were possible to agree more I would 🫡 My only question is HOW! There have been many suggestions of routines and contraptions to bleed the system. I’m not convinced this car is air pocket free. What do you suggest as the ULTIMATE solution?? Thank you for watching 🤘😎
Use a vacuum bleeder. Take a look at the channel named Heidi and franny’s garage. They have a good explanation on one. 👌🏻
ua-cam.com/video/ACLaRKjbf5o/v-deo.html there you go.
I would just drive the car with the burping valve open for a while making sure that gets to optimal temperature. That should get rid of your air pockets most of the time since you only bled a small portion of the total coolant.
@@N911GT2 Agreed this is the best process, though this means draining down almost the whole system (5 gallons-ish) and refilling. Otherwise you get a hell of a coolant bath pulling the vacuum!
Seems I’ve heard of warm start issues revolving around the cable from the B+ block to the starter… not 100% but might be something to research.
Yes this is a potential issue.
Absolutely, that is great advice 🙌 The B+ junction box and the Y-Cable are definitely problem areas on these cars. In this case 3 things pointed away from this being the problem.
1. The hot-start issue would only occur on the first start after being left to sit for 30-45 minutes. After that it would continue to start just fine despite being just as heat soaked.
2. I did a voltage drop test and found the reading to be normal
3. After connecting a fuel pressure gauge it became apparent that my issue was fuel pressure related. Thank you for watching and contributing 🤘😎
Nice job
Thank you SIR 🫡
How many miles do you have on your rebuild by now? My right rear tail light had a crack excatly like yours untill I found a replacement on ebay, I believe this is another common problem with these cars😖
Well Don Esper, the cat is probably out of the bag on that one due to a recent UA-cam community post. The car had almost exactly 160k when it died in the hands of owner “B”. That whole rear light cracking situation is apparently the norm on these cars. There is a teenage industrial engineer out there right now who could throw that design in an app and tell you the stress points in these bloody rear lenses. For me, the joy was in the engine. If the rat rod nature of this car offends people, bring it on. Thank YOU for being a part of the team 🤘😎
Interesting stuff professor Finn. 🧐 🤩
Can you monitor the fuel pressure to see if the problem lies there?
With an OG like yourself I cannot pretend that the issue has not been resolved 🫡. It was a fuel pressure gauge on the fuel rail and the collective brain power of you awesome Humans 🙌 that lead to the final resolution. Stay tuned. Message me if you just gotta know 😉
@@ManinaGarage I'll wait for the shared result in your next video and good to hear you've gotten resolve .
Is the coolant sensor plugged into the oil pump console, where the coolant flows round the oil pump?
On a side note, can you tell me whether it's possible to replace the oil pressure relief valve spring and plunger directly from under the engine or are there lots of bits and pieces in the way that need to be removed to get access?
Thanks
Hello Pjay, yes the cooland sensor plugs into oil pump console area. I replaced the oil pressure plunger in a two part oil system video series. There is some dismantling to get access to it. Thank you fir watching 🤘😎
PORSCHE 911 Oil System Operation,
Overhaul & Upgrades PART 1
ua-cam.com/video/rgVfPM68voI/v-deo.html
PORSCHE 911 Oil System Operation, Overhaul & Upgrades PART 2
ua-cam.com/video/QOXbHqE0SfU/v-deo.html