Brian, thanks for your work on our 2007 Expy. Sorry for the hassle with the oddball lug socket size. From our family to your's, thank you!! Congrats on all your life successes!😉
THANK YOU BRIAN! I've been dealing with an intermittent lean code P0171/P0174 on my Ford Five Hundred for well over a year now. It never occurred to me it might be the evap purge valve. I have the same old-style evap valve as the F-150 you showed, which thankfully can be disassembled. I took mine apart, cleaned out the pintle on the purge valve solenoid, then cleaned out the hose connectors and reconnected them, and lo-and-behold my check engine light went out! Didn't even have to clear the code from the ECM! Much obliged for the diagnosis realization!
A great tell on the F150 trucks with the capless fuel fill is when you roll up to the pump and shut the engine off, then push the fuel nozzle thru the filler neck- you'll hear an inrush of air as you do it. This is the build up of vacuum from the bad purge valve. It also will be difficult to start after a tank fill up with fuel like Brian mentioned. My 2011 did this a few times right after I bought it used. Found the answer on this channel. I pulled the connector and line to verify it was in fact stuck open. Removed the purge valve, sprayed throttle body cleaner in it, then some aerokroil penetrant. Banged it around a bit to force the pintle valve to open and seat by inertia. Shook out the excess aerokroil and reinstalled it. Hasn't acted up since.
Love your thought process. I'm retired now after 37 years vin business. I commented that you could still use old proven methods on newer cars. He used pressure transducer and scope for low pressure fuel pump diagnosis. One of his followers asked what iI had against scopes. Nothing,why drag all that stuff out in lieu of a gauge?
Because of one of your previous videos, i was able to diagnose a check engine light on my 2012 F-150 Lariat and then change the purge valve. Light went away.
I replaced mine a while back because on the forums someone randomly said if you fuel up and try to start your truck and it wont start the first time, replace the purge valve solenoid and that solved my issue. The more things that break on this truck, the more I learn about it.
I didn't have codes on my 2012 f150. It just started slow starting. I would have to hold the gas pedal done to get it started faster. It was also pulling the fuel sending unit down. It would drop to empty at around 3/8 of a tank. Also you say forever, but my old 2001 f150 had a different style. Right after I changed my solenoid, my son had the same problem on the 01.
Your videos are incredible detailed, I have a similar issue with one of my work trucks,it's always running a little rough, the check engine light comes on and off and the truck sporadically just cuts off after getting off the free way stopping at a traffic light, never driving down the road, the oil light symbol comes on the dash, and it starts right back on, it's been to several shops and many parts have been changed including this valve with no results, I kind of gave up on it and just drive it. Keep up the great videos.
Long winded question if you don’t mind sharing some feedback. I have P0442 small evap leak code. It’s been smoke tested and looks like the fuel inlet needs replacing. The cleaning is it working. Possibly saw smoke from somewhere down behind the engine but my view was obstructed. Possibly the large vent canister hose line? Not sure what it would have been but will follow up with that after I tackle the latest issue such as drop in acceleration and a noticeable drop in fuel mileage. The dash readings for my miles till empty as well as the exterior temperature jumping around. Last night, I heard a slight tic noise similar to the sound metal makes after heat cycle cool down. as well as a “decompressing air release noise.” The engine bay was emanating more heat than it usual does after I have driven it. The booster, the plastic air intake filter housing and fuse box all noticeably hotter than usual. It’s an 09 F150 with 147.000 miles on. Recalled hearing about a 20 am Fuse #27 causing issues. Pulled it out and while not blow its contacts did have discoloration. The manual stated I had a spare 20 amp fuse located inside the truck kickpanel. The spare also had beefier and longer contacts compared to the damage original one. Was hesitant at first it appeared to be making good contact. Went for a drive and right off the bat my acceleration was back. Best it’s been since I can remember. Do you think my evap code is related to the fuse 27 issue? Also which one would you focus on having repaired first? I am relieved that my acceleration and fuel mileage began showing life again. Thanks and apologies for this long winded thesis.
1:27 this is the purge valve solenoid that all Crown Vics use from 2003-2011. The only ones I've ever had to replace are due to 800 lb gorillas breaking off the vacuum ports, never for a failure of the part.
I kept getting a check engine light and a “check fuel inlet” message a while back on my 2012 Escape and never could get it to go away until I changed my purge canister valve. Haven’t had a problem since.
Hey Brian. I`ve got a 2014 Taurus Customer kept driving after CEL came on, until it stopped running, had it towed in. Only code I found was P1450. I replaced Purge Valve (it was stuck open). Car still wont start. It also had the code for starter interrupt for over cranking. After clearing that code vehicle would crank again. When cold. It will fire for a few seconds, but not run, then not fire at all. I checked fuel pressure and it is good.
I've never seen a bad old purge valve either. I have a 2013 Explorer 4wd that came in last week that the rear transmission mount bolt broke on the transmission end. This allowed the engine to swing all the way forward and rip the rear drive shaft from the front coupling and break the air conditioner high side hose. Have you ever seen this failure? Thanks!
I didn't have a code, but my flex fuel Expedition kept thinking E85 was in fuel tank, so it would long crank before start. So I did a KAM reset to fix.
Well I wasn't looking for this yet but good information. The gfs 09 escape has a very small evap code, and I've seen p1450, and she's said it's been hard to start after getting gas
I had a chuckle on this one, Ford recently released a bulletin to STOP REPLACING SO MANY PURGE VALVES> their brilliant research team of engineers declare many of the returned Purge Valves were found to be working normal/ not leaking. This is the most common purge valve I've ever replaced on any vehicle, and its also the one that will fail and cause the hard start symptom & not even set a DTC. This is because the system is so poorly design it barely runs its own drive cycle to test the EVAP system integrity and Ford uses the most bare bones/ cheapest design EVAP system the can legally get away with... AKA all Ford stuff.
This appears to be the same kinda failure on the filter and check valve harness on the 2015-era Escapes. Different part, same kind of job, still fails a lot, but this is much easier to replace than that stupid harness that has about 5 drops on it to get to. The symptom of the tubing-harness failure is engine stumbling upon re-fueling.
Number 1 cause overfilling the tank... if the gas pump stops you stop adding fuel. We only have 400 plus of them. BTW pump the peddle while starting like an old carb vehicle she will fire up. Got a lot of vehicles back to maintenance center with my advice.
What do you mean no fancy equipment come on. There are so many guys that's all do not even have to an aftermarket full-blown diagnostic scan tool let alone using the Ford tool like you're using those are fancy pieces of equipment in my opinion you have guys that just try to diagnose cars with a damn code reader no other tools. The type of testing you're doing right now is a common sense type of test where of course you're right there is no need for a picoscope or any type of lab scope in this particular case we're not looking for that off the wall glitch that a driver might have from the computer working an injector or a coil anyway I do love all your videos I know that you are extremely knowledgeable I love your your videos you doing very well you explain them perfectly I don't know anyone else in this business that can do it as well as you do and that's no BS but of course you're my Ford Tech Guy to go to when I have some kind of an issue that I'm not familiar with just to save time no special tools needed just going to UA-cam and finding you is the special tool LOL
OK I hope you can definitely answer this question I have a 2009 F150 and I’m having a bad problem with the rear bouncing it seems to me it comes from the left side of the rear of the truck Here are the things that I did myself to figure it out or limited it which did not work Rear traction bars Driveshaft replaced with all new u joints and seals I replace the rear wheels and tires I replace my rear shocks with new one my left shock was completely shot Having new one it’s still doing the same thing I don’t know if It’s the wheel bearings in the rear or differential differential fluid was changed as well what is your opinion ??? So whatever’s going on on my left side destroyed my rear left shock
I had the EVAP leak - small DTC and replaced the very bad valve and cleared the code. Still getting an EVAP leak - small DTC. Hopefully I can figure it out with help from this and other videos.
Excellent videos you produce and explain well. I have a problem to run buy you dealing with an 2014 Focus ST 2.0L ecoboost boost ptoblem if at all possible. I have had it in the shop and nobody can figure it out, please let me know if this is possible.
I used to have the problem where my car would stall after refueling, so I had parts replaced under warranty. A year later, the issue cropped up again, but I noticed that the problem will not arise if I wait to refuel after the "low fuel light" illuminates. What’s up with that? LOL
Great video Brian. But I wanted to ask you a question regarding the purge valve in this video. I too had a check engine light come on in my 2015 Ford Taurus with the 3.5 V-6 and I went to my local auto parts & had them put there scan tool on it. The code PO456 came up small evac leak detected. So I did some checking around & I was told to check that purge valve the way you did in the video. So I went to my local Ford dealer & bought one & installed it. So I reset the check engine light. And it seemed to be running a little better. But 2 months go by and the check engine light came back on. So went and had the scan tool back on it and it said. PO442 small evac leak detected again. So I need to ask you. Could this new valve I put on failed or is it something else. I hope you don't mind me asking you for the advise. And thank you. You have some great videos.
Hi, Brian. I've seen that sometimes parts go through a revision process to try and address certain issues that are found in the field. Do you have a few tips or good tools available to the home mechanic to see the revision history of certain parts so we can ensure we're getting/searching for the latest or specific revision of the parts in question (this instance being the Purge Valve)?
My truck started doing this sometime ago and I was told it was the purge valve more than likely, the hard start when filling up the truck, doesn’t do it any other time. Also would that cause some poor fuel mileage as well?
my buddy has a 13 explorer with this engine. it surges on cold start with a p 0456 small evap code. i cleaned MAF, throttle body and told him to get a purge valve. this car smokes real bad out the exhaust when it runs bad, i told him it’s stuck open or closed. would you agree i’m on the right track
Hi and thank you for your videos. can you tell me which parts I should change first on my ford s-max 2.0 145 flexifuel . I have an engine failure when I start the engine without starting it. p0607 mc of output and p2110 throttle body . thank you
I've put 4 new valves on my 2014 Fiesta ST since new . Symptoms?? Simple ONLY after fueling it will want to stall AT AN IDLE for maybe the first mile or so after that no problem. The wierd thing is I NEVER had any codes whatsoever so it was a bit tricky to figure out but if this is happening to you just change it out and problem solved.. untill.. it happens again which on mine it just started to do again.. ugh # 5 this weekend thankfully it's easy to change out.. would be nice if ford would do an update????
Dears. Can I safely use 5w40 in my Explorer Sport ( 3.5 ecoboost 365 HP )? Ford recommends 5w30 but due to hot summers ( more than 35 celsius ) I consider to use 5w40 on summer. Thanks for answer in advance.
I have the same issue on my 2020 Ford Transit 250. The van is from new drives horrible, shifts hard and from stop and go acceleration it hesitates to. It also gives me horrible gas mileage (8mpg). Took it to ford @6000 miles, they claim the changed this part but it is just worse.
2002 Lincoln LS 3.0 problem I’m having with every time I fill my tank my car runs like crap poor acceleration power but when my tank gets to half or less it’s normal. Also my car runs very rich my upstream read at 900 don’t know if this a purge or canister but I try to fill my tank only half
Thanks for this video, quick question on a 2012 Escape 3.0 po400, can I take the EGR valve tube part out that goes towards the intake and check for it being clogged, is that common? Thanks in advance if you have time to respond. I have no drivability or idle issues. Thank you.
2015 Transit 250 3.7 pulling raw fuel through evap? Is there a "check valve" or vapor/fluid separator in or on the tank that can fail? 176k miles. Had bank 1 and 2 always rich codes. Raw gas smell , very hard starting. Purge valve is ok. fuel trims where pegged at -35. I disconnected the purge line and capped off purge cylinder. Once everything cleared up Fuel trims is bouncing around zero both long and short. I did notice the inferred alcohol percent was high at 44%? How to you clear and relearn this ?
if the old style valve is bullet proof, what's the common cause of a gas cap light on a 05 expo? Nobody around me can figure it out. I'm gonna start throwing parts at it and hope (other then a Ford Gas cap.I did that). Any recommendations to start with would be awesome!
I have a 2010 escape 3.0. I put gas firday, drove about 10miles. Then sat at idle with the AC on and on recuite for about 10 minutes. Drove about half a mile. Then sat at idle again for about 2minutes. My engine started shuttering like it was going to die but didn't. Call my husband he told me to trun the AC off when I did that as soon as the fan would go off the truck would kill. But it would start right back up No problem. I was in the car rider line picking my kids up a school so it's stop and go stop go. It was also really really hot that day. Fuel pump is working and we just changed this evap peice "for the 3rd time in 6 years" in February. What could be the problem?
I have a2011 Ford Explorer and sometimes it has a long crank time not necessarily after fuel up does it randomly no codes crank time is usually 1 second and when acts up takes about 3-5 seconds . Would this valve cause this issue or more toward fuel pump? Any insight would be great help
Hi there. I am in need of a little advice. Did the timing on my 07 f150 5.4l and have put everything back together but now it won't even turn over. Not even getting any clicking sounds from anything. Any ideas of what the problem could be? All fuses and relays are good
hi i would like to know in what state your located? I have a 07 expedition and its coming up with a p0012 i have replace the solenoid and still comes up with the same code when engine running at idle its good but when you drive it and stop its idle rough but you give it gas and it correct it self back to nomal
I heard you say "hard start after a fueling event'. I've had that, sometimes, on my 2010 SHO. However, no codes. Could it still be this valve, just not throwing a code?
I changed mine on a 12 f150 5.0L and I still have P0446 as a permanent code with engine light. Cleared it 3 times and took it for a drive, any suggestions?
I have an unrelated question to ask. How can I disconnect my parking service Feature Every time I come to a stop and start again slowly the feature goes on and cycles through and then stops. I think that it's purging my battery also If you could help I'd surely appreciate it I do push the OK button but it just keeps recycling over and over every time I drive Someone did suggest that I spray the outside cameras with WD40 but that didn't help
I've changed everything timing on my 04 5.4 3 valve and when I started it up it ran like new for about 10 minutes and then ran rough for a minute then ran fine on a test drive for about 15 minutes then in a drive thru started spitting and sputtering . I used 5w30 oil and I did notice a little bit of a phaser knock on bank 2 but more importantly I had a flattened out hose on my evap canister purge valve.coukd this cause my issue with rough shaky running ?
Hey man i have a problem with my 2018 explorer gps it’s always saying no signal and sometimes it works and then doesn’t what could be the problem can it be the fuse or the whole module?
Yo, I need a great mechanic like you for my f150, but I don't live close to you! How would you search to find a great mechanic like yourself in my area? Thank you!
Would someone please tell the engineers, I did not have an affair with their wife. Stop trying to reengineer something that worked great for years. Brian great videos. The younger generation needs all the help they can get.
I need help on my 05 Ford Mustang 4.6 3v. Every time I drive to car and it gets up to temp and try to give it any throttle is like Boggs and sounds like it’s misfiring and has been doing it’s for month or two and can’t find what’s wrong
Brian, thanks for your work on our 2007 Expy. Sorry for the hassle with the oddball lug socket size. From our family to your's, thank you!! Congrats on all your life successes!😉
THANK YOU BRIAN! I've been dealing with an intermittent lean code P0171/P0174 on my Ford Five Hundred for well over a year now. It never occurred to me it might be the evap purge valve.
I have the same old-style evap valve as the F-150 you showed, which thankfully can be disassembled. I took mine apart, cleaned out the pintle on the purge valve solenoid, then cleaned out the hose connectors and reconnected them, and lo-and-behold my check engine light went out! Didn't even have to clear the code from the ECM! Much obliged for the diagnosis realization!
A great tell on the F150 trucks with the capless fuel fill is when you roll up to the pump and shut the engine off, then push the fuel nozzle thru the filler neck- you'll hear an inrush of air as you do it. This is the build up of vacuum from the bad purge valve. It also will be difficult to start after a tank fill up with fuel like Brian mentioned. My 2011 did this a few times right after I bought it used. Found the answer on this channel. I pulled the connector and line to verify it was in fact stuck open. Removed the purge valve, sprayed throttle body cleaner in it, then some aerokroil penetrant. Banged it around a bit to force the pintle valve to open and seat by inertia. Shook out the excess aerokroil and reinstalled it. Hasn't acted up since.
Yup, this was a long video. Probably the best 23minutes I’ve spent since buying my 2013 Ford Edge.
Very helpful, thank you!
Love your thought process. I'm retired now after 37 years vin business. I commented that you could still use old proven methods on newer cars. He used pressure transducer and scope for low pressure fuel pump diagnosis. One of his followers asked what iI had against scopes. Nothing,why drag all that stuff out in lieu of a gauge?
Because of one of your previous videos, i was able to diagnose a check engine light on my 2012 F-150 Lariat and then change the purge valve. Light went away.
I replaced mine a while back because on the forums someone randomly said if you fuel up and try to start your truck and it wont start the first time, replace the purge valve solenoid and that solved my issue. The more things that break on this truck, the more I learn about it.
I didn't have codes on my 2012 f150. It just started slow starting. I would have to hold the gas pedal done to get it started faster. It was also pulling the fuel sending unit down. It would drop to empty at around 3/8 of a tank. Also you say forever, but my old 2001 f150 had a different style. Right after I changed my solenoid, my son had the same problem on the 01.
ScannerDanner loves EVAP leaks! 🤣
Thanks, Brian.
🤣 his favourite
Your videos are incredible detailed, I have a similar issue with one of my work trucks,it's always running a little rough, the check engine light comes on and off and the truck sporadically just cuts off after getting off the free way stopping at a traffic light, never driving down the road, the oil light symbol comes on the dash, and it starts right back on, it's been to several shops and many parts have been changed including this valve with no results, I kind of gave up on it and just drive it. Keep up the great videos.
My 2011 throws no codes but every time I fill up it starts but stumbles and almost dies then goes back to normal. I am definitely going to check this.
The IDS has a great test for the evap leak test. That eliminates a lot when diagnosing a problem.
Long winded question if you don’t mind sharing some feedback. I have P0442 small evap leak code. It’s been smoke tested and looks like the fuel inlet needs replacing. The cleaning is it working. Possibly saw smoke from somewhere down behind the engine but my view was obstructed. Possibly the large vent canister hose line? Not sure what it would have been but will follow up with that after I tackle the latest issue such as drop in acceleration and a noticeable drop in fuel mileage. The dash readings for my miles till empty as well as the exterior temperature jumping around. Last night, I heard a slight tic noise similar to the sound metal makes after heat cycle cool down. as well as a “decompressing air release noise.”
The engine bay was emanating more heat than it usual does after I have driven it. The booster, the plastic air intake filter housing and fuse box all noticeably hotter than usual. It’s an 09 F150 with 147.000 miles on. Recalled hearing about a 20 am Fuse #27 causing issues. Pulled it out and while not blow its contacts did have discoloration. The manual stated I had a spare 20 amp fuse located inside the truck kickpanel. The spare also had beefier and longer contacts compared to the damage original one. Was hesitant at first it appeared to be making good contact. Went for a drive and right off the bat my acceleration was back. Best it’s been since I can remember. Do you think my evap code is related to the fuse 27 issue? Also which one would you focus on having repaired first? I am relieved that my acceleration and fuel mileage began showing life again. Thanks and apologies for this long winded thesis.
thanks for the tip Brian, we had so much problems with those valves, expecially on the mustangs which would actually stall, going down the road!
1:27 this is the purge valve solenoid that all Crown Vics use from 2003-2011. The only ones I've ever had to replace are due to 800 lb gorillas breaking off the vacuum ports, never for a failure of the part.
Yup the old style was great.
I have 2011 f-150 had since 50k miles well into 100S now I’ve had to replace that little bugger 3 times over the years they break so easily
Getting a evap leak code on my '13 taurus. Gonna have my guy check that piece. Thank u so much please don't leave out the Taurus
I kept getting a check engine light and a “check fuel inlet” message a while back on my 2012 Escape and never could get it to go away until I changed my purge canister valve. Haven’t had a problem since.
Also can be accompanied by a "honk" from the fuel filler. Just had a '13 Fusion platinum with that customer complaint.
GM has the same problem and diagnosis process for their purge solenoids as well. They usually set a P0496 - "incorrect purge flow" code.
Thanks Brian another educated video have a blessed day ..
Hey Brian. I`ve got a 2014 Taurus Customer kept driving after CEL came on, until it stopped running, had it towed in. Only code I found was P1450. I replaced Purge Valve (it was stuck open). Car still wont start. It also had the code for starter interrupt for over cranking. After clearing that code vehicle would crank again. When cold. It will fire for a few seconds, but not run, then not fire at all. I checked fuel pressure and it is good.
Thank you for going in-depth and fully demonstrating and explaining. Wonderful. Thanks.
Another great video Brian!
Thanks again Brian for sharing your knowledge to help us wanna be mechanics fix our own vehicles
I've never seen a bad old purge valve either. I have a 2013 Explorer 4wd that came in last week that the rear transmission mount bolt broke on the transmission end. This allowed the engine to swing all the way forward and rip the rear drive shaft from the front coupling and break the air conditioner high side hose. Have you ever seen this failure? Thanks!
You should do a vid about the fords you recommend and what you dont
Absolutely great diagnostic video.
Those purge valves are always suspect when it comes to an evap leak on any manufacturer platform😏
Great vid Brian. Simple yet effective.Nice.
I didn't have a code, but my flex fuel Expedition kept thinking E85 was in fuel tank, so it would long crank before start. So I did a KAM reset to fix.
yup that's another one on flex fuel vehicles.
Well I wasn't looking for this yet but good information. The gfs 09 escape has a very small evap code, and I've seen p1450, and she's said it's been hard to start after getting gas
Yup that's your problem, nice easy fix.
I had a chuckle on this one, Ford recently released a bulletin to STOP REPLACING SO MANY PURGE VALVES> their brilliant research team of engineers declare many of the returned Purge Valves were found to be working normal/ not leaking. This is the most common purge valve I've ever replaced on any vehicle, and its also the one that will fail and cause the hard start symptom & not even set a DTC. This is because the system is so poorly design it barely runs its own drive cycle to test the EVAP system integrity and Ford uses the most bare bones/ cheapest design EVAP system the can legally get away with... AKA all Ford stuff.
Yes I’m have this issue as of now
This appears to be the same kinda failure on the filter and check valve harness on the 2015-era Escapes. Different part, same kind of job, still fails a lot, but this is much easier to replace than that stupid harness that has about 5 drops on it to get to. The symptom of the tubing-harness failure is engine stumbling upon re-fueling.
Number 1 cause overfilling the tank... if the gas pump stops you stop adding fuel. We only have 400 plus of them. BTW pump the peddle while starting like an old carb vehicle she will fire up. Got a lot of vehicles back to maintenance center with my advice.
LOL "pick-o-scope" Great video, like always, good sir! OORAAH!!
What do you mean no fancy equipment come on. There are so many guys that's all do not even have to an aftermarket full-blown diagnostic scan tool let alone using the Ford tool like you're using those are fancy pieces of equipment in my opinion you have guys that just try to diagnose cars with a damn code reader no other tools. The type of testing you're doing right now is a common sense type of test where of course you're right there is no need for a picoscope or any type of lab scope in this particular case we're not looking for that off the wall glitch that a driver might have from the computer working an injector or a coil anyway I do love all your videos I know that you are extremely knowledgeable I love your your videos you doing very well you explain them perfectly I don't know anyone else in this business that can do it as well as you do and that's no BS but of course you're my Ford Tech Guy to go to when I have some kind of an issue that I'm not familiar with just to save time no special tools needed just going to UA-cam and finding you is the special tool LOL
Grammar, spelling, punctuation and sentence structure goes a long way.
On a 3.5L eco boost F150, could this cause a rich/lean code on only one bank, or would you expect the code on both banks?
WOW. My 2011 Flex has the one you like. How strange is that?
Brian can this cause a rough idle?
OK I hope you can definitely answer this question I have a 2009 F150 and I’m having a bad problem with the rear bouncing it seems to me it comes from the left side of the rear of the truck
Here are the things that I did myself to figure it out or limited it which did not work
Rear traction bars
Driveshaft replaced with all new u joints and seals
I replace the rear wheels and tires
I replace my rear shocks with new one my left shock was completely shot
Having new one it’s still doing the same thing I don’t know if It’s the wheel bearings in the rear or differential differential fluid was changed as well what is your opinion ???
So whatever’s going on on my left side destroyed my rear left shock
Brian the Ford repair wizard. No hocus pocus here folks.
I had the EVAP leak - small DTC and replaced the very bad valve and cleared the code. Still getting an EVAP leak - small DTC. Hopefully I can figure it out with help from this and other videos.
Excellent videos you produce and explain well. I have a problem to run buy you dealing with an 2014 Focus ST 2.0L ecoboost boost ptoblem if at all possible. I have had it in the shop and nobody can figure it out, please let me know if this is possible.
Great info 👍. Can I use forescan to replace my steering gear on my 15 fusion? Thanks 👍
I used to have the problem where my car would stall after refueling, so I had parts replaced under warranty.
A year later, the issue cropped up again, but I noticed that the problem will not arise if I wait to refuel after the "low fuel light" illuminates.
What’s up with that? LOL
Great video Brian. But I wanted to ask you a question regarding the purge valve in this video. I too had a check engine light come on in my 2015 Ford Taurus with the 3.5 V-6 and I went to my local auto parts & had them put there scan tool on it. The code PO456 came up small evac leak detected. So I did some checking around & I was told to check that purge valve the way you did in the video. So I went to my local Ford dealer & bought one & installed it. So I reset the check engine light. And it seemed to be running a little better. But 2 months go by and the check engine light came back on. So went and had the scan tool back on it and it said. PO442 small evac leak detected again. So I need to ask you. Could this new valve I put on failed or is it something else. I hope you don't mind me asking you for the advise. And thank you. You have some great videos.
I keep getting the 0442 and 443 codes and I just recently changed this part. Not sure what the issue is.
Awesome info as usual Brian thanks for sharing!
Your the best great video.
Hi, Brian. I've seen that sometimes parts go through a revision process to try and address certain issues that are found in the field. Do you have a few tips or good tools available to the home mechanic to see the revision history of certain parts so we can ensure we're getting/searching for the latest or specific revision of the parts in question (this instance being the Purge Valve)?
Great video, thanks Brian 👍😁
Ford: "but that valve had a 5 star review on Amazon.."
My truck started doing this sometime ago and I was told it was the purge valve more than likely, the hard start when filling up the truck, doesn’t do it any other time. Also would that cause some poor fuel mileage as well?
Yep! Engine keeps saying lean and adding more fuel to it to compensate
my buddy has a 13 explorer with this engine. it surges on cold start with a p 0456 small evap code. i cleaned MAF, throttle body and told him to get a purge valve. this car smokes real bad out the exhaust when it runs bad, i told him it’s stuck open or closed. would you agree i’m on the right track
Your awesome my friend!
Hi and thank you for your videos.
can you tell me which parts I should change first on my ford s-max 2.0 145 flexifuel .
I have an engine failure when I start the engine without starting it.
p0607 mc of output
and p2110 throttle body .
thank you
I've put 4 new valves on my 2014 Fiesta ST since new . Symptoms?? Simple ONLY after fueling it will want to stall AT AN IDLE for maybe the first mile or so after that no problem. The wierd thing is I NEVER had any codes whatsoever so it was a bit tricky to figure out but if this is happening to you just change it out and problem solved.. untill.. it happens again which on mine it just started to do again.. ugh # 5 this weekend thankfully it's easy to change out.. would be nice if ford would do an update????
Having these issues with our 2020 Police Interceptor Utility vehicles with the Ecoboost.
Good job
Loved it keep up the good work
Dears. Can I safely use 5w40 in my Explorer Sport ( 3.5 ecoboost 365 HP )? Ford recommends 5w30 but due to hot summers ( more than 35 celsius ) I consider to use 5w40 on summer. Thanks for answer in advance.
No, you shouldn't. A good full synthetic is fine to handle the hot summers. The correct oil is especially important in the Ecoboost for turbo cooling.
Hey Brian, I have a 2011 f150 with a 5 litre endine, I have codes p0453, p0455, what do I need to look for to fix these codes. Thanks for your help.
Good morning replaced on my 2012 fusion 2.5 light still comes on.
I have the same issue on my 2020 Ford Transit 250. The van is from new drives horrible, shifts hard and from stop and go acceleration it hesitates to. It also gives me horrible gas mileage (8mpg). Took it to ford @6000 miles, they claim the changed this part but it is just worse.
2002 Lincoln LS 3.0 problem I’m having with every time I fill my tank my car runs like crap poor acceleration power but when my tank gets to half or less it’s normal. Also my car runs very rich my upstream read at 900 don’t know if this a purge or canister but I try to fill my tank only half
Does the 2010 Fusion SE have this issue? Thanks for the heads-up, Brian!
Yes it does had it in mine twice don’t get aftermarket buy from the dealership
@@barryward8617wish i had watched this video b4 i got my new aftermarket purge valve delivered to me today. I have a 2010 fusion sel btw
Mine failed in my 2015 Interceptor, car just didn't seem to run well, at least not consistently, and at times smelled weird.
Thanks for this video, quick question on a 2012 Escape 3.0 po400, can I take the EGR valve tube part out that goes towards the intake and check for it being clogged, is that common? Thanks in advance if you have time to respond. I have no drivability or idle issues. Thank you.
2015 Transit 250 3.7 pulling raw fuel through evap? Is there a "check valve" or vapor/fluid separator in or on the tank that can fail? 176k miles. Had bank 1 and 2 always rich codes. Raw gas smell , very hard starting. Purge valve is ok.
fuel trims where pegged at -35. I disconnected the purge line and capped off purge cylinder. Once everything cleared up
Fuel trims is bouncing around zero both long and short. I did notice the inferred alcohol percent was high at 44%? How to you clear and relearn this ?
if the old style valve is bullet proof, what's the common cause of a gas cap light on a 05 expo? Nobody around me can figure it out. I'm gonna start throwing parts at it and hope (other then a Ford Gas cap.I did that). Any recommendations to start with would be awesome!
Clean the thing!
I have a 2010 escape 3.0. I put gas firday, drove about 10miles. Then sat at idle with the AC on and on recuite for about 10 minutes. Drove about half a mile. Then sat at idle again for about 2minutes. My engine started shuttering like it was going to die but didn't. Call my husband he told me to trun the AC off when I did that as soon as the fan would go off the truck would kill. But it would start right back up No problem. I was in the car rider line picking my kids up a school so it's stop and go stop go. It was also really really hot that day. Fuel pump is working and we just changed this evap peice "for the 3rd time in 6 years" in February. What could be the problem?
I have a question I’d love an answer to. How do I get through directly to you.
Re: 2005 f150
I have a2011 Ford Explorer and sometimes it has a long crank time not necessarily after fuel up does it randomly no codes crank time is usually 1 second and when acts up takes about 3-5 seconds . Would this valve cause this issue or more toward fuel pump? Any insight would be great help
Hi there. I am in need of a little advice. Did the timing on my 07 f150 5.4l and have put everything back together but now it won't even turn over. Not even getting any clicking sounds from anything. Any ideas of what the problem could be? All fuses and relays are good
I’ve had these go out on two Edges and both of them there was no light, but the engine idle after filling up the tank was terrible.
Yep I had the same thing on a MKX. No code but terrible idle after fueling
my 2011 ford escape 2.5 Ive replaced that 2x
hi i would like to know in what state your located? I have a 07 expedition and its coming up with a p0012 i have replace the solenoid and still comes up with the same code when engine running at idle its good but when you drive it and stop its idle rough but you give it gas and it correct it self back to nomal
I heard you say "hard start after a fueling event'. I've had that, sometimes, on my 2010 SHO. However, no codes. Could it still be this valve, just not throwing a code?
Yes
I changed mine on a 12 f150 5.0L and I still have P0446 as a permanent code with engine light. Cleared it 3 times and took it for a drive, any suggestions?
I have an unrelated question to ask. How can I disconnect my parking service Feature
Every time I come to a stop and start again slowly the feature goes on and cycles through and then stops. I think that it's purging my battery also
If you could help I'd surely appreciate it
I do push the OK button but it just keeps recycling over and over every time I drive
Someone did suggest that I spray the outside cameras with WD40 but that didn't help
I've changed everything timing on my 04 5.4 3 valve and when I started it up it ran like new for about 10 minutes and then ran rough for a minute then ran fine on a test drive for about 15 minutes then in a drive thru started spitting and sputtering . I used 5w30 oil and I did notice a little bit of a phaser knock on bank 2 but more importantly I had a flattened out hose on my evap canister purge valve.coukd this cause my issue with rough shaky running ?
Brian, why don't you clone yourself and open a second shop in Wisconsin? We need more techs that know what they're doing. 😁
Come to the gulf coast.
Could this also produce a P2098 code?
With this kind of issue wouldn't it start popping on deceleration?
Great video 🏁🏁🏁!!
Hey man i have a problem with my 2018 explorer gps it’s always saying no signal and sometimes it works and then doesn’t what could be the problem can it be the fuse or the whole module?
Yo, I need a great mechanic like you for my f150, but I don't live close to you! How would you search to find a great mechanic like yourself in my area? Thank you!
Thats a clean engine for 126k miles.
Every oil change I spray lube in the purge valve.
Would someone please tell the engineers, I did not have an affair with their wife. Stop trying to reengineer something that worked great for years. Brian great videos. The younger generation needs all the help they can get.
What's the part number for 2013 f150 5.0 please?
But it I can't fill the tank my 6.2l f250 11' is this be the problem?
Or it the tanks?
Instead of your finger checking for the vacuum could you use a gauge to see the leak
yup but why would you?
@@FordTechMakuloco thought it may be easier to see?
You can feel it very good when they are leaking.
I need help on my 05 Ford Mustang 4.6 3v. Every time I drive to car and it gets up to temp and try to give it any throttle is like Boggs and sounds like it’s misfiring and has been doing it’s for month or two and can’t find what’s wrong
I never see any videos regarding the 2.7 ecoboost, must not have many issues
Do those internal water pump go bad
yes
What software are you running on the laptop?
What about a P0451 code on my 2012 5.0