The Ultimate PS5 Controller Repair Challenge
Вставка
- Опубліковано 22 вер 2024
- I embark on a thrilling quest to revive a broken PS5 Controller purchased on eBay. The USB-C port is a shattered mess, its inner workings spilling out, but I am determined to bring it back to life. Join me as I undertake this daring mission to restore this fallen hero to its rightful place among the gaming elite.
👉 🍿Watch Next
• Damaged PS5 Controller...
PART 2 - Fix or Flop: PS5 Controller REVISIT
👨🔧 About Me
I'm Markus, your tech repair and modding expert. Join me as I extend the lifespan of consumer tech and reduce waste. Sometimes I melt, sometimes I destroy, but most of the time, I repair!
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07/02/2024 00:00 PT ~ 10/01/2024 00:00 PT
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⮀ Tools & Equipment
Microscope Camera:
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Microscope Optics (180x):
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Microscope Barlow Lens (0.75x):
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Soldering Station:
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Hot Air Soldering Station:
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Multimeter (UT61E+):
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Parts Storage Box:
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USB Type-C USB-C 14 pin Connector Breakout:
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Micro USB test board :
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USB-C test board:
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IFixIt Manta Precision Bit Set:
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IFixIt FixMat:
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IFixIt Probe and Pick Set (Dental)
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Kitchen Timer
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⮀ Consumables
Eraser-Pen
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Soldering-Sponge
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Low-Melt-Solder:
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Solder Wick:
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Isopropyl Alcohol Dispenser:
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Flux:
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Solder Mask:
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#ps5controller #controller #usbc #connector #sony #repair #ps5
there are incompatible ports being sold all over the place i tried so many non works
i don't know in which hole did they manufacture this port i cant find the exact same socket unfortunately the only solution is to take it from donor board
This has got to be the most frustrating hobby I've tried so far, solder NEVER melts as easily as shown in tutorials. I've tried nearly everything, different solder, flux, wick, even a whole new iron set. Nothing seems to work as nicely as I see in videos. Still waiting to receive new copper core soldering tips, hoping that solves my main issue.
Hi Benjamin, I get that! It is frustrating when you want to get into a hobby, and nothing works. But is this not always the case when we begin something new? May I ask you which temperature you are using for your soldering?
@@CanWeFixThat I suppose it is 😅 however, soldering takes the cake for me, haha. I've tried anything from 350C to 500(max). What gets me is I see solder melt instantly to the touch, but when I try, I can press and bend the wire onto the very end of the tip before it melts. The base of the tip gets very hot, but not the end. Also, any advice for tip maintenance? Brand new ones will have solder stick to it and they slowly start repelling the solder.
Edit: got the tips, and they work sooo much better. I think I need even thinner wire. What I have is much thicker than the pads you are repairing.
@benjaminschacht92 350C sounds like a good value and shouldn't hassle you too much. ALWAYS try to use Flux because it fights the oxidation process during the soldering. Do you use a soldering sponge? It looks a bit like a sponge for a cooking pot. This is mostly enough maintenance for your tip. You can have a look at my video descriptions, you will find there the equipment that I use.
@@CanWeFixThat I've been using flux but I have been curious of what it's for. I thought it was to help heat transfer 😅 got several sponges, but I have been using the scotchbrite side of a dish sponge, too. I think that may have been too rough for the tip. Again, amazed with the tips I got, huge difference, a shame my iron kit came with crap. Every used full copper tips? I know they wear quicky, but maybe worth the quick heat transfer in some applications?
@benjaminschacht92 Using a dish sponge is indeed a very bad idea. You will destroy the tip coating which could lead to the issues you are facing. I have not used copper tips or similar. Replace your damaged tip and get a proper soldering sponge for cleaning and this problem should be solved! 🤓
I dropped my controller with the charger in the usb port and it broke the port. All tech replace places say it’ll cost more to fix than it would to buy a new one. Worst part is that the controller works, but I can’t update it without that port so I can’t use it. Wish there was a way to update wirelessly.
Hey! That is really a shame. I don’t think that there is a way to update it via the air. ☹️
You can charge via a charge Dock that plugs in the bottom
@@user-vy4vn9gi6r right, the controller can still be charged, but in order to update the controller you have to connect to the ps5 console using a cord. The usb connection on my controller is broken so it can’t be updated. It is now so outdated the console won’t allow me to play with it.
How to update DualSense wireless controller device software
DualSense wireless controller device software updates are added when you update your PS5 console system software. Pair your controller and follow the on-screen instructions to update.
To start an update manually:
Go to Settings > Accessories > Controller (General).
Select DualSense Wireless Controller Device Software.
You can also update your DualSense wireless controller device software using a PC. Visit the guide below for more information.
Apparently an update was released in February so you can now update via wireless
My controller looks different internally and a piece for the triggers broke where it connects with the ribbon. I tried to solder it back on but it now gives me a flashing orange light do u think you can help it would be very appreciated because parents won’t let me get another
@zynie4627 Hey Zynie! Have you checked the connections with the multimeter to be 100% sure that your repaired traces are working as they should? 🪛
I’m having the same issue after changing the port
i bought 3 different sockets from ali express it supposed for ps5 controller but still not working ...i think new socket need some modifications .
Hi! You do really need special sockets. But Mouser is very expensive, at least inside Europe. Not sure if modding an ordinary socket is possible? Has anyone tried this out before?
Fire the cameraman!
I can‘t fire myself. Technically I could but.….😉
@@CanWeFixThat lol
To percision grind. I use an exacto knife or a needle. To grind out the circuit traces
I do like more the grinding pen, at least for me this is working better.
I have replaced several without success. I think it's the usb port. once welded on they look good. but if they test the 4 pins in the center they are in continuity with each other. try it outside the board, that is, with a dock tester
Yep! It looks like it is a special connector in a generic shell. That is ridiculous!
same problem - with 3 pcs. after changing the usb port - it wont update or be recognized by the pc !!! very strange.
You knows why? I have 2 Dualsense with that problem...
I have a controller with the top USB broken,everything else works fine and bottom charges .Do you know a way I can update it without USB???
Hi James, sorry I can't help you with this one. 😞
@@CanWeFixThat I know ,rekon it's a throwaway
@@CanWeFixThat Know anyone who might?
Hi James, not really, sorry. ☹️
I repair 2 Dualsense and witch no battery they blink, but with battery no blink no power...
Hi Dawid, I would try to check and maybe replace the "Dialog DA9087" power IC chip.
I have the SAME problem with my ps5 controller and a hot air rework station many new tips that hold solder really well after I used a special cleaning agent I bought otherwise the tips wouldn't hold solder from new state. Anyway I have a huge magnify lamp that makes the board and contacts easily visible as the lamp just attaches to the workstation desk. I also have low melt solder in a few sizes and the wicks. What I don't have is grinding pen and solder mask... I have soldered many things so not new to it but never fixed traces and I have a few broken traces on my Ps5 USB port on PCB. Should I order a Grinding pen or is there something else I can use and would I get away without using solder mask or should I wait and order it. I am playing Diablo 4 on PC as new season started and the controller I was using is my Lucky UBER/UNIQUE drops controller, hehehehe, I know superstition clown but switching to my PS4 controller is annoying on my pc as it does not feel the same and I need the lucky charm so ordering a new one seems like I am fighting the luck gods and fixing is the route to go.
Hi! You don't need a grinding pen; you could use a sharp tweezer or any other pointy tool to gently scrape it. Solder mask is also not a "must have."; you could also use nail polish as a dirty workaround, tinker a bit, and have fun! 😁
Do i need that heatgun? Or does it work with just the soldering pen?
Hi! That is an interesting question. It is definitely possible, but in my opinion, harder to accomplish due to the fact that we have multiple soldering joints in different locations. I would highly recommend using low-melt solder to have the best chance of removing it without any damage. Happy Tinkering!
@@CanWeFixThat Okey ill try my best and thanks for the response did not really wanna buy a heatgun for 100$+ just to fix my charging port😂
@nuggis Fair enough! 😉
Any progress? I have the same problem, swaped port and only blinks orange without battery. Few traces needed repair, but nothing more than that. It's really strange that it's still non working.
My next video is a follow-up to this device. Stay tuned.
@tofol13k your port is still the issue, as I commented on his latest video, some ports are just not compatible with the ps5 controller, even with the same pin layout etc.
You will either need to source a used original pull, or a compatible one from a trusted supplier that confirms they work.
We know of two brands that work.
@@phoneopsplus may you spoil me the brands? Id really appreciate it
@@tofol13k the original that are fitted are Mitsumi, although I’m sure Mitsumi do not sell this due to contract with Sony, the compatible brand is JAE
Although I will have to try remember which specific JAE USB C connector it is and get back to you.
I tried with 3 ps5 controllers before and same issue, I'm not sure if usb port not orginal or they have some issues on motherboard
That is strange, I will get it back on the table soon. But no idea, if its fixable. :-/
@@CanWeFixThat i will back to my table also ,and try to change some chips and test with working board , if i get any updates for sure i will let you know
+Hasan Alsammarraie Thank you very much! Very appreciated.
Greetings. One contact on the 3rd left has not been soldered, is it not necessary to solder it?
Hi, thanks for your feedback! Could you provide the timestamp where I should take a look?
It flashes orange when I have the battery disconnected and light flashes just does not connect to console or light up
I will do a revisit of this controller in the future. Maybe reflowing some ICs will help to eliminate this problem. Stay tuned!
عزيزي ذراع التحكم ليس بها خلل
المشكلة الوحيد التي نعاني منها الآن ان جميع قطع منافذ الشحن التي تباع بالسوق غير متوافقة مع ذراع التحكم أؤكد لك ذلك وعن تجربة وخبرة
وللتأكيد قم بنزع منفذ الشحن الأصلي من ذراع اخرى ثم طبقها وألحمها في هذه الذراع المعطلة وسوف تعمل بكل سرور
Hi Tito!
You are right; the port is a problem, indeed. Not sure if there was anything else faulty. I did a part 2 of this, unfortunately, I was not aware of the special port problem. The link is in the description, when you are curious.
P.S.: I auto translated your request:
"Dear, the control arm is not faulty
The only problem that we suffer from now is that all the charging ports sold in the market are not compatible with the control arm. I assure you of that and from experience and expertise.
And to be sure, remove the original charging port from another arm, then apply it and solder it to this broken arm, and it will work with pleasure"
First of all, I really enjoyed the video! It is so informative, and showing step by step how to solve the problem without any magic like: we have a broblem then boom, look - everything works, we did it :-) Just one note regarding to board restore: I see 4 broken legs: 1 at the left, 1 at the middle, and there are 2 broken legs on a right side, but you connectied only one (the one which is the closest to the right side of the board) , but what about one more leg? Could it be a problem?
Hi Vitali, thank you so much for your positive feedback - very appreciated. Could you tell me which leg you're referring to? May you share a time code?
@@CanWeFixThat Thanks for reply on my comment! OK, go to 13:58. There is a bord before restoration. There are 12 places for the legs. Lets enumerate them from 1 to 12 from left to right.
I see broken 3rd leg, 8th, 10th, 11th. 10 and 11 are broken together and look like one single big broken leg, but I think there are 2 legs: 10th is a leg with a small size (the same size as leg number 3 for example), and leg 11 is a big one (check 2nd leg for reference).
So, just to summarize: according to my understanding you fixed 3rd, 8th, 11th, but leg number 10 was skipped... Just calculate all the legs you have after restoration. There are 11, but should be 12, isn't it :-) Thanks again for good video and your comments!
@Vitali B Ah! When you look closely, you will see, that leg number 10 and 11 go to the same pad on the PCB, it is just a redundancy in this case. That was the reason, why I have not fixed this one. But good that you bring that up, I will try to mention this in upcoming videos, where I skip these things. Thanks! 😀
@@CanWeFixThat OK, good 🙂Thanks for the answer, but if 10 and 11 goes to the same place, does it make sence to bridge it together? Because for now leg 10 is not connected at all, it just hovers over the board. I do not know exact meaning of each number of the leg, but it seems that if leg exists it should be connected to somewhere 🙂 Obviously you have better knowledge than me in this area, if you aware of this, then we can recognized it as not an issue. Thanks again for feedback. Waiting for new videos ;-)
@Vitali B You are right; connecting everything is always better, and I should have done this. Unfortunately, in this case, this wouldn't have helped. Have you seen part 2 of this controller?
Hi, first of all nice video! Go on!
So I have the same problem, my USB connector disconnected when I touched the cable. So I decided to swap them, after that it won't charge or connect to my PC either
I have measured the copper lines and I think they are good. could it be that another part has suffered thermal damage? or is there something we have overlooked that requires the controller to be fully reassembled, before it charge or connect?
without battery it blinks orange twice, with battery it doesn't do that, only blinks blue when you press the PS button.
Maybe you find the time to take a second look, at your controller and gave feedback to us.
greats from Germany :)
Hi Sebastian, thank you very much for your kind words. Of course it could happen that you have done some thermal damage - that is always a risk. But I do think it is high likely that during the port failure some lines got shortened and destroyed some components. This is all just guessing!
Unfortunately I am working on PS5 controllers the first time, so I need more time to fiddle around with them.
I will do a revisit of this Controller in the future - so stay tuned.
Cheers from Germany! :-)
Just thought I would post the comment on this video to help others, good work overall on replacing the port and repairing the traces.
But, the port is still the issue, there are incompatible ports being sold, either an original pull needs to be used, or you need to find a supplier that sells known working ports.
There are two brands that we know of that work so far.
Hi PhoneOpsPlus,
wow, thanks for bringing this up! I would never have thought that the port could be the culprit! Maybe I can look into that in the future. I have actually vowed never to touch that controller again 🙂
What brands?
@@CanWeFixThat I hope you do another video on it 😂 I’d be happy to help you out on it
@@phoneopsplus thank you :)
@@phoneopsplus what's your source for the ports (if you dont mind sharing). I've just replace a port on my controller and it appears to be delivering power on the wrong pins.
400c ? are u want burn the broad ??
Hi, it is not the lowest setting, but definitely not the worst temperature for desoldering components. I have not fried any components so far, But I appreciate our concerns.
What is that tester called that you’re using to measure the test points ?
Hi! I linked them in the description of this video here: ua-cam.com/video/VvKj_7JHxzo/v-deo.html
my thing in the middle of the charging port the one the video is broken, like a littlte peice of it has come off is there a way to fix it or replace it with a new one from another controller
Do you mean the USB-C connector itself is broken?
The thing in the middle of the charging port dont know what its called
Your best bet is to salvage the connector from a donor board and swap it.
🔥➡ Watch PART 2 - Fix or Flop: PS5 Controller REVISIT: ua-cam.com/video/WHdAaQJLzc0/v-deo.html
What heat gun brand are you using? Thanks!
Hi Panda, it is a QUICK 861DW hot air station.
Thank you so much!
@@Orionslies You are welcome! 😉
Hi is it the replacement fixable or not?
Hi, what do you mean exactly?
@@CanWeFixThat what i meant is can it charge after the replacement with a new usb port? Sorry my english is not very good
I'm not sure; I have no genuine replacement parts. Everything you got from eBay is probably not working. You can get them from Mouser and Digikey but for a very high price. :-(
This looks like to much work and is way to difficult to replace a basic part il just buy a new controller 😂
Unfortunately, these are true words! But the main problem is the fact, that you are not able to get a genuine replacement part to get it to work again. 🫤
I have Solution easy way to fix
Enlight me! 😉