Excavator Rebuild: valve control block disassembly - Hitachi EX120-2
Вставка
- Опубліковано 9 чер 2024
- Find me on Instagram:
/ pacific.northwest.hill...
Price sheet for this project:
docs.google.com/spreadsheets/...
Here are the previous videos from this project: • I bought a broken exca...
0:00 intro
0:25 prepping for wash
10:14 washing
16:46 take apart block
33:04 borescope block
37:49 solenoid valve
41:30 ending
#excavator #hitachi - Авто та транспорт
You got balls Matt. I’d be so overwhelmed at this point I’d want to just stop. Huge respect for you and your perseverance.
Definitely my thinking! 👍🏻👍🏻
Dudes a beast
I was thinking about the same as he dug into it. I don't envy any mechanic who repair these valve blocks and specially not like first time guy
Agreed!
Agreed, with the proviso that currently all he's done is disassemble.
It will be massively more impressive once it's all reassembled.
By the time he's done, he'll be one hell of a heavy equipment mechanic, between the dozer and this.
Matt, what I like most about watching you work on projects is that you take the time to explain it, you use tools that the everyday guy can afford, and finally you breathe new life into these old machines and make them look fresh out of the factory. Several of the other channels that I watch get the machines back in to working order (probably what I would do) but you take it several steps further which I appreciate. Your wife must also be a saint and very supportive ! :) Keep it going man!
In my 72 years, I've worked on everything from Harleys to Clocks... I've always thought to myself that I could put together a 747 "IF" I took it apart first! Every time I watch you work, I think of the old saying... How do you eat an Elephant? Answer: One bite at a time! Keep up the great work, I very much enjoy and admire watching your work! Thank you for sharing!
My experience with a bore scope is, it makes everything look10 times worse. The fingernail test works well.
Nice vid as always Matt.
Mad props Matt! That whole pump system is no joke, makes my head spin! Keep up the great work, can't wait to see the final product!
thank you!
Matt, any part of owning machinery on a farm is the expense of maintenance. The fact that you tackle these overhauls yourself is exemplary but after watching your effort on the Cat dozer I have no doubt in your ability to do this work. I used to take heaps of pics at every stage so I could roll through as a reminder, plus the manual. Fantastic effort as always.
Your confidence at attacking that valve body is off the scale!
Matt, I would soak everything in Evaporust. It will remove any rust and never hurt the original finish. I've used it on heavily rusted machined parts and they come out looking like they were just produced. Keep up the great work Pal!
I've rebuilt engines and transmissions, but the complexity of that thing gives me the willies. Kudos to you!
This reminds me of a 1,000 piece jigsaw puzzle of all zebras from top to bottom and side to side.
Your dedication to producing quality videos is much appreciated, thank you for sharing.
As long as there is no scarring on the spools they will be okay. Surface rust is okay. If you can clean it and not feel any pitting you’re golden. Heck of a project on this one. If you’ve got good manuals you will make it through. 😊
Matt, there is one thing important about hydraulics: keep your oil clean and water free.
How? Use back flow spin on filter cartridges with 5 micron mesh and a pressure drop indicator. They mainly get blocked by water (they take it out) and when the bypass opens up, it's like having no filter anymore.
Change at very least once a year no matter the drop indicator, and do it also when ever the pressure drop reaches half the bypass pressure. 0.75 bar or 10 psi usually, is half the bypass pressure.
Why? Dirty oil is like sand going round and round. Aside of the obvious wear points like pumps and drive motors, the way more critical parts are all your valves.
See, pressure times flow means energy in hydraulics. So if you have a flow rate through your valve around the pistons (the leak flow) it's where you loose your energy. Asside from costing you diesel, and taking away your peak power, it mainly heats your oil, that leads to bigger leak rates due to thinner oil, that leads to higher oil temps. Called China syndrome, or runaway. By leak I mean not to environment, I mean from pump side high pressure to tank side low pressure inside your valves.
E.g. 100kw shaft power goes into the pump, you get (roughly) 20kw heat and 80kw oil, where ever that oil works, you get 16kw heat and 64kw of work. Except for simple pressure drop areas like a relief valve or leaking from pumt to tank side in valves, there you get the full pressure times flow as heat. Obvious that's not the full flow of the machine except when you run the cylinder into end block or your buckets hooked into a tree or rock and it stops moving, then all oils goes through the pressure relief valve and you heat the oil at a rate of 80kw.
Now: Just consider how many valve areas you have in this valve block alone, and you understand why the clearance between valve body and those plungers being as thight as possible is critical important. It usually is rated in low tenths of thousands Bananas or 0.005 mm. Basically just a fingerprint could make it stick. With a thin human hair in between on one side it would get stuck hard.
How ever, you don't run your excavator 24/7 so I don't think doing more than changing seals makes sense. Pls stop using scotch bright, you'll make it worse. Considering the water being out now, it'll clean up itself and the rest gets into the filter if you follow my advice about that filter.
Just remember, keep the oil clean, that keeps the vales tight and the pumps and motors working good.
Don't do so, and you'll need a lot of fuel, extra cooler or new vales, pumps and motors. Very expensive.
Also consider that dirt enters the system with every stroke of a cylinder in 2 places, the cylinder rod attracts dirt and even the best wiper seal won't take 100% off, and the level change in the tank gets moistzand dust in as well. So better to sightly pressure (0,25-0,3 bat 4 psi) the tank with compressed air if you have it on the excavator or have a cap with a really good air filter on.
I usually make it so that the oil tank is half full when all cylinders are in, but when all cylinders are out you still need enough to remove air bubbles from return in side the tank. And then with all cylinders out I pressure to 0,1 bar/1 psi.
Have fun. Indeed hydraulic is just 2+2, nothing more. And thanks for your contend.
You can (lightly) ball hone (steel wool maybe?) those bores without hurting anything. Also any minimal bleed-over/bypassing from wear shouldn't be too much of a problem as long as the valve block remains sealed good from external leaking. The only thing which might be effected is a slight (undetectable) drop in power performance for the individual worn valve circuit. But to my eyes I'd say "Clean it and send it". I don't think you'll notice any meaningful degraded performance.
I second this. Good cleaning, replace the O-rings so it doesn't leak and run it all day. There are machines in much worse shape operating just fine.
I don't think I would use a ball hone. I have had good success removing rust from firearms with 0000 steel wool and WD40 without causing any damage or removing any material.
Right. Not like it is pistons and rings. Those valve bodies are built like tanks. Replacing all rubber (that is deteriorated) should make it like new. This machine is going to be a "like new" "monster", once again.
@@Watchyn_Yarwood Agreed. Ball hone is too aggressive. Not needed.
Do not ball hone any valve bore. I repeat do not ball hone any valve bores.
Think i will dissemble my giant excavator and restore it in my back yard. Props Matt Props
Regarding cleaning parts…Zep industrial degreaser…purple…works great!!!
Also great work, I built machinery for a living…I wouldn’t tackle the valves…you have my respect!!!
That!!! is a nightmare. I will be watching with AWE when you reassemble. good luck, you deserve it.
I'd love to see even a video short of your method for keeping track of all the parts and moving pieces on projects like this. I admire your ambition taking on stuff like this, and I love your down-to-earth attitude. No rush, but please keep the videos coming!
Mike maybe that’s why he started doing videos? It’s common for the generation (2 of them now) to use the computer they carry everyday to either take pictures or videos of a lot of “stuff “. I am finding that it helps me remember the wiring that was put in five years ago and lots of things that used to be readily recalled. Them days are gone 😢…
And having the manual helps always 😊
I am always amazed at the hot water shower valve in the shop. what an inspired idea. a good hot water pressure sprayer costs in the thousands. Your version costs virtually nothing and looks to do just as good.
My pressure washer allows for a max temperature of 160 degrees water to be used. The PW was bought brand new at Sears some 30 years ago now. I finally rebuilt the pump two years ago and it still works like the Day it was new! Briggs & Stratton 9hp, 4,000psi. Check your owners manual before using Hot water as some pumps will be destroyed by hot 🥵 water.
It makes me more and more crazy how it is possible to disassemble so many parts by your own. And so much knowledge about machines. Wow.
Charlie was enjoying being inside in the heat and out of the rain too! 😊❤
I am glad it's you and not me doing this project!!
The spools will always leak because there is steel on steel sealing which is why there are bleed holes in the valve body. The only issue is how much they leak. The very slight pitting caused by surface rust shouldn't be a problem.
R-E-S-P-E-C-T from Germany .
Absolutely no friggen doubt that Matt would make a really good and reliable aircraft mechanic with his habits and ability to recognize his limitations and find out what he needs to know.
Definitely an interesting episode this one.
Well hell Matt, even a caveman…, such as myself, could take that apart…, course, no way in hell I could get it back together.
Total respect to your abilities, great video.
Thank you sir.
You, my friend, are truly not afraid. That is a hard core job.
Way beyond my comfort zone. So many parts. I hope the build goes well. Good see you and keep up the good work.
I'm about to undertake a similar project on two three valve monoblocks made by Hamworthy. I plan to use a gun cleaning kit and bore solvent to clean my valves. I'll even use gun polishing brushes in the bores. You might find decent results with this. Good Luck!
Taking the valve body open was a good idea. The boom cylinder has been leaking water inside a long time. You just got inside the thing before the damage would have gotten even worse. Material removal is not a option and if it has no nicks and dings inside it's probably still ok to reuse the valve body.
Hi matt iv been over 50 years on excavators owner opperater and never seen a valve block been stripped down and I can do most jobs it will be interesting to see it all going back together and even more interesting to see the machine finished it will be like a new machine it wasn't well maintained from new.great videos 👍👍
Admire your courage, keep up the good work. I enjoy your videos a lot. Glad your wife is a patient lady to permit this so close to living area.
A wife permitting 😄😄😄
Get a different wife...
Nice to see the parts with water brought in out of the cold....
Matt you’re crazy and I love it. I can’t wait to see the series play out
This is perfect saturday night entertainment! Tgank you, Matt 👍
I laughed when Matt was talking about the oven cleaner and said "I'm lazy" .....😂😂 uh, no. You're not.
Thanks! Keep up the good work out there!
Very interesting piece there, a lot to digest Matt.
Never ceases to amaze me that no matter how intricate and complicated something looks, it Never fazes you. Id've taken one look at that valve block and bailed out immediately......total respect to you, Matt..👍
Dave- You ever look at the wiring schematic for your car or truck? Better to not 😂
@@wrstew1272 nope... I know my limitations, buddy...😂😂
Those hydraulic tables are life savers. Mine has saved my back many times. Nice work Matt!
Matt, you are courageous to tackle the hydraulic repair, I think I would have to clean and install new O Rings one section at a time. Good luck !!!!!
I would just clean the valve body replace the seals and thats it. I wouldn't worry about some of the small spots you showed on your camera. It might get a tiny bit of bleed by but it won't affect performance. Keep up the great work you are doing.
Matt, I have dealt with a few spool valves on Wreckers and skidsteer machines, one lesson I learned early on was to never swap the valves themselves or you end up with issues. It was difficult to tell if you kept the valves you pulled in any certain order which is why I send you this Tip. WD-40 is a great cleaning solution as well as an assembly oil and protectant.
Good luck with so many parts, keep moving I'll be here. :)
A new video for saturday, perfect! That block looks like a nightmare to put together, allthough you will surely ace it. Have a nice weekend!
Foam ear plugs work great to for plugging most hydraulic lines/fittings as far as degreaser. I’ve had really great luck with the foaming “kaboom” in a spray can. Goes on easy and works great of nasty grease and belt dust.
Good approach to the teardown. I like the way you are going about the repair on the whole machine, machines are nothing more than a whole bunch of components assembled together to function in a sequential order, and as long as you know that order and what/how components work it should be a doable rebuild. Thanks for the update Matt, enjoyed the video.
Amazing work! Looks like there's more to these than an entire engine.
Always impressed by your willingness to take on very daunting tasks
What a donating task you have at hand . A person has to admire the people it takes to figure out what engineers nightmares cobble together to add another convenient concept
I been sick in bed all week with the flu.. Nice to see one of my regional youtubers post again. Its boring being sick.. thank goodness for YT.. Matt, that is one amazing contraption to take apart. The project of a thousand tubes✔️👌👌
Matt, I just finished a 25 hour job replacing the CV drive axles and front wheel bearing assemblies, both sides, on a very inexpensive 2002 Chevy Venture - THere was a risk the bearing noise I heard was in the transaxle and had nothing to do with the CV joints outwards, but as the cost was so cheap (parts are more or less free on that minivan!!!!) I just had to do it. I have never been pushed harder on a auto repair in my life (and I couldn't film the constant temper outburts (although I didn't throw anything or break anything!!)), and when it was all done the car drove great, and quiet as a mouse, and smooth as a Cadillac. I was VERY inspired by what you put yourself through, tho it did a REAL number on my knees and right shoulder. But it was in a quiet, well lit, ROOMY heated shop which simply made a HUGE difference! I had to buy a few inexpensive tools and borrow a slide hammer to get the drivers side CV joint out, but it got done and zipped back up. I again was inspired by your and your massive efforts. Great video Matt!
Years ago we used caustic soda … for grease removal.. the stuff is great but hard on clothes and skin..we had no pressure washers then.. Just old brush to scrub bit with and water.. Perhaps this is what’s in gunk and over cleaner…. I sure enjoy watching you.. You always put yourself in a defensible position by labeling everything.. keep going. Thank you..
If youŕe going to do sketchy activities, tie down straps are your friend. That and steel toed boots! Always great content Matt
Petroleumbased degreaser could perhaps have been a alternative as a cleaner.
Your tech knowhow is impressive!!
My pressure washer allows for a max temperature of 160 degrees water to be used. The PW was bought brand new at Sears some 30 years ago now. I finally rebuilt the pump two years ago and it still works like the Day it was new! Briggs & Stratton 9hp, 4,000psi. Check your owners manual before using Hot water as some pumps will be destroyed by hot 🥵 water.
A little WD 40 will help get the water out/ off to protect the parts and manifold. Great job on the disassembly. Parts diagram I’m sure was a great help identifying parts. Might try a brake hone in the bores. Most of them have a very fine stones.
Matt,
Your a brave man. Enjoy your channel. Boe
Matt you are crazy trusting of yourself. Congrats bro i would never even attempt this
Wow. Never knew how complicated the hydraulic system is. Great video
Nice one Matt, Sunday morning here in NZ, always a pleasure to watch your work, very complicated bit of kit for sure but your attention to detail and meticulous approach will win out I'm sure 🙂
Fellow kiwi passing through 👋
You blast it for minutes and you find spots you missed. Always! You bring it back in and WTF! (Wednesday, Thursday, Friday) how did I miss that? I have enough power to blast the chrome off my trailer hitch ball! Then you go back and do it again. Hah! Gotcha' this time! 😊☺
Amazing work!!! I think hydraulic fluid does a lot to limit corrosion. Good stuff!
That dish soap, that cleans ducks, after a oil spill. Diluted and sprayed on. Left to penetrate. Then high pressure wash. Works, pretty good.
Just had my house pressure washed to remove loose paint, I always thought my pressure washer did not have enough ump to get the job done but it turns out it was the nozzle. Check out getting a TURBO ROTATING NOZZLE it will make a world of difference in cleaning your parts (ask any exterior house painter). Pressure washer direct has a writeup on what numbers nozzle to select
Yup... It doubles or triples the effectiveness of the pressure washer. About $15.
Got to be careful on wood though... it digs into the grain !
Absolutely agree with you
Agree but be careful if you get close mine will drill a cinder block quite easily.
Maybe have it hot tanked to get some of the inside cleaned? Just a thought.
Oh my god. I’m not that technically minded, but I just could not stop watching. For someone that has ‘not done this before’ and actually doing it I find that incredible. You have a gift and I love getting notifications about the next portion of fixing your excavator. Cheers Steve from Melbourne Australia 🇦🇺
Matt,i thought this was going to become mission impossible but when you said that the oven cleaner was lemon scented I knew everything would come out in the wash pun intended,you’re a brave man,looking forward to the next vid,thanks for this one.🇦🇺🦘👌👌👌👌
Matt... Yeah right, those valves etc. will be easy to put back together... Are you the guy that does Rubic's cube in the dark, blindfolded, wearing mittens ????
I have faith in your abilities... Hell, I've been watching you FOREVER!!!
Until next video.... Dave
I'm @3:15 in to the video and I am already mentally overwhelmed with the task you're undertaking this time. Just - daunting.
Howdy Matt, Castrol makes some stuff called "Super Clean" which I have found to work well in removing grease. Since grease is just a thick oil, I have found that in order to remove a grease it needs to be cut with a thinner oil. As the cutting oil becomes thinner and thinner it is easier to be removed by solvents or even thinner oil. Kerosene works really well, or since you are working so much on equipment that is greasy maybe a solvent wash station might be in order. I was thinking that maybe a brake cylinder hone might work for cleaning up those bores so long as you do not get heavy handed and ream them out too much. Keep up the good work!
nice work Matt! always so thorough and you explain what you're doing and what does what...always informative and fun to watch...give Charlie a good boy from youtube!
As another Oregonian, I love to see someone else in the PNW working in a tshirt in the rain.
Matt, you’re a one man army!
The picture quality (resolution) of the video is exceptional.
Great work on the dismantling and diagnostic. If it was my valve block, I would try and clean the internal core's with ultrasonic cleaner, I like you scotch brite pad cleaning. Great work.
Many guys I know use diesel fuel with a touch of gas for cleaning greasy items but in small amounts. Give the mix say 15 minutes to cut/soak into the grease, oils and then pressure wash with warm to Hot water. It's basically same junk that's accumulated on engines etc... much cheaper than most other products sold in stores. If say an engine is super greasy we used old bed sheets to catch the bigger chunks and a lot of the smaller sometimes too. We throw out the sheet afterwards. This way we aren't polluting much at all considering the job.
Your wife most be proud of you for ussing the oven cleaner :)))))))
Your a brave man Matt! Outstanding!
Dad is a mechanic and he confirmed.. valves and valve bodies are ground to match.. important to keep them matched.
My dad used to put fine metal polish on the valves and run them in and out to polish out sticky valves good luck
I'm looking forward to the rest of the restoration project!
Dude you got some hairy coconuts!!!
Hats off to you sir!!!
Jesus Matt! that's the stuff of nightmares, far too much to remember, good job it's being video'd. Well done, you are braver than me. Bob. UK
White vinegar will remove rust . Soak a cotton rags and let it the bore for 1 hour you will be surprised
Matt, my goodness, how are you ever going to get all those tiny and big pieces back together again. You must have some system. Very well done , you are amazing. 👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼
You definetly are learning more about the hydraulics for this and I’m sure it will roll over to other machines you will work on! Congrats!
Using the engine stand was a nice idea
Video popped up on my feed, "Hell yes!"
Charlie is there because he loves DADDY and wants to just be near him. Good dog!
As always outstanding work !
Thanks for the update . It looks as if it will be fine . 👍
Nice vid Matt i did get myself my own Yanmar B 15-3 EX excavator this weak and today i fixed the right track tensioner and over the next year i am gona fix it up nice and good and use it on my property. Gota say its fun fixing them up and puting them to work.
What’s next, an engine rebuild on an F-22? I’m willing to take a leap of faith on some things but I’d run from a project like this. Kudos for proceeding boldly. I will relax and breath better after you have it back together and working flawlessly. We’re behind you all the way! 🥸👍👀🔧🔨✅❗️
Thank you for showing your organization system for putting things back together... I would be totally lost!
Matt, your valve block is completely fine. Ive seen much worse in machines running 10/hrs day. What we do in our shop is take fine emery cloth to the spools and chuck then in a lathe to “polish” them. You can also take an appropriate size ball hone on a drill for the holes for the spools. Rapid in an out motion while honing. The spools should slide freely. Lube is your friend.
Good to see you are washing it. Since you live in the PNW a product called F.I.S.T. is available. Made North of Seattle (Arlington I am thinking) with a headquarters at one of the small airfields. This is a powerful (forget the Greens, Blues etc. they aren't even in the same class) detergent that is a godsend for those of us who do not like scrubbing. Comes in gallons or drums. I have sprayed down (using a coarse setting with a spray bottle--you don't want to breathe it) dirty transmissions, engines, etc. after a short pressure wash to remove the loose stuff that had a half inch of grime on them just like what you are dealing with. Then a thorough soaking with the F.I.S.T., take a break for fifteen minutes to let it work and pressure wash again. Really bad cases can take a couple of applications but I have never seen one that didn't come out clean and not a lick of scrubbing. Although you can if you want and have the time it will speed the process up. It will take the shine of polished aluminum (fancy wheels....) so don't use it on the polished stuff. Doesn't hurt the normal finish at all. Now I think they quit making it years and years ago but they did make a product called P.U.N.C.H. (before their time with the overuse of acronyms!!) that was even stronger. It would actually bubble up paint if you left it on for more than a few minutes. I haven't seen that on the market forever. We used to use it to take the carbon off ship's stacks long before pressure washers were generally available. Put it on with a deck brush and rinse it off with a garden hose---bingo ready to paint. Keep the FIST off your skin (especially PUNCH if you are able to find it.) as it feels the same as bleach. A quick wash and it is gone so it isn't a big thing but definitely keep it out of your eyes. A gallon lasts quite a while. Depending on where you get it it runs around $40/gal.
Mmmmmm that there Red Hammer warms my heart! Always refreshing to see you beating and banging on things. That puppy is heavy and could impart serious ouwiees on delicate areas, such as human body parts, concrete,etc. Safety Second! Yer Wife probably has a big policy ( hopefully )but nonetheless might wish to have you around…..especially till all of the machines are running and pretty 😂. Good on yer Mate! I’m jealous that I have lost the strength and stamina to do this stuff anymore 😢. But you help remind me that these skills and determination have not been lost.😊👍👏
"its really not that bad" lol love it
Those plugs are fantastic... do a bit of powder coating but I use those plugs for everything now... easily washable.
GUNK ultra degreaser works really well on cleaning up greasy dirt encrusted parts.
2nd this. No scrubbing needed, just wash it off.
I’ve stripped some things down in my time as an aircraft and auto mechanic but thankfully never something as daunting as that gubbins. I have absolutely no doubt that it will work as intended when you put all it back together😮
Well Done Matt.... We TOTALLY Impressed with your Bravery!
👍👍👍👍👍👍🍺🍺🍺🍺😁
Looks like fun, maybe use a long skinny wood dowel with a slit cut on the end and slide the scotch brite on the dowel stick then turn with a drill. Good luck. Cheers from Jacksonville Florida 🌞