The Type 1 jacket shown with no pocket flap is normally know as a World Word 2 variation. There is no pocket flap, 4 buttons instead of 5 and unbranded doughnut buttons. This was due to war time restrictions.
Actually, to my knowledge the info in the video is not correct. The first jacket that is shown is a WWII model type 1 jacket. The flap is missing because of the war effort to minimize fabric use. Also the WWII model has doughnut buttons with a wreath. The first type 1 jacket had a pocket flap. I cloud be wrong but this is what I’ve learned. Also, the stitching on the pleats in the front was meant to be undone by the owner if they needed more room. If you keep the pleats stitched you don’t really have more room because the stitches don’t allow the pleats to open.
I was just thinking last week that I wished there was a video explaining the differences between the 3, as I’ve just started getting into denim this year! Very informative!
I just bought a type 3 that's so classic/traditional there are no internal pockets and I miss them terribly. The chest pockets aren't big enough for a phone and there are no other pockets, it's torture
I have one type 2 and a few type 3’s. I love my type 2 but the only thing I wish it had was hand warmer pockets. I’m used to having them so I have the habit of feeling for them until I realize I have no pockets. On the bright side, it’s getting a cool patina from my hand rubbing and the fact that my arms lift it up a little when I have to put my hands in my pants pockets. It’s white cotton.
I know! I bought a Type 3 (instagram.com/p/CYKDdzYoeoa/) but I had to try on a few different kinds before getting one with a waist I'm comfortable with
Great content as always. I'm on a journey which is nearing its end. I have a type 1 vintage Levis jacket which I got for £10.00 off ebay. Two type 3 Selvedges, one by Bravestar, which is awesome and brilliantly made, and Nudie in their Bobby Black Rainbow which is also awesome and beautifully built. I have one more to get. A type 2 with handwarmers (has to be functional) means I can stop obsessing. I'm thinking full battle striped Momotaro...or if I'm being subtle about it, PBJ because, it's PBJ.
Never knew there was types actually lol. It's not denim, but I have a Levi's Sherpa Corduroy Trucker jacket that's pretty sharp looking but man I just don't care for the short length. It's supposed to be short but I think it's a bit too much for me; think I'm gonna sell it. I see some of these denim jackets aren't all short too. Short jackets kinda bug me, just not used to them and I wanna keep pulling them down lol. That type 2 you're wearing is pretty nice.
I have an "Iron Heart" brand type 2 jacket with a type 1 back. I thought that was cool so I bought one. I got 2 dozen denim jackets each costing $500ea, my wife will divorce me, and I need a shrink to stop me from buying more.
Hi- the information the “ expert” gave regarding the Type1 is incorrect - it’s a reissue of a WW2 Version and a not a 1936 506 XX The pocket minus the pocket flap and laurel leaf donut buttons are characteristics of the wartime version of this blouse
I love the background music. I searched it up and the pleats are for extra room if you ever needed it. I wonder how often people actually cut the horizontal stitches holding the pleats down.
I had type 2. cheap, lokal brand from bandung, indonesia. It's 16oz raw denim. I love it, classic. I was combinated with flanel, raw denim jeans and boots, I feel great
To the best of what I read about the squared stitching, it also allowed to widen the jacket for colder times. One would apparently cut off the stitches and would be able to layer more, and sew them back on in Spring. Not sure if that is a true thing though. Unfortunately, I do not remember where this info was from, sorry.
The stitching on the knife pleats would be removed if you gained weight and restitched if you lost weight. Or as someone has stated below... Just for sizing. They did do some different sizes but not like today
The original Type 1 had 8 oz thick denim, the Type 2 was definitely thicker ( 10 or 12 oz ) and the Type 3 ( I think but I’m not sure ) like the Type 2. The original Type 1 feels really different ( between shirt and Jacket ) to me ( but absolutely great ). I’m definitely not a denim expert, but I think the thickness and feels between Type 1 and Type 2 is important ( to me ), if we’re talking about the difference’s of these jacket’s. Thanks 🙏 for this video!!
Would say the early 506 was ,,Blouse,,type jackets ,in later years the denim was thicker...maybe i' m wong ...but you can find pics of Robert Mitchum in a 1940ies movie where he is wearing a 506 xx and it looks heavier.Early lvc 506xx from 1990ies has a fantastic 14oz denim but the later was this blousy type with the 9 or 10 oz denim , i own both ,both are nice. Regards from East Berlin
It's funny, I had to choose between that Oni type 3, a Tanuki type 2 with hand warmers/inside pockets and a SDA type 2. Aesthetics won - I settled on the SDA because of its incredible 18 oz slubby/neppy denim ( GZ-011 Godzilla jacket ).
@@Stridewise yep that one suits the description really well. Is it the ome with cobalt stiching? If yes that this is the one im saving up at the moment haha
Hi Nick. Should you approach wearing a denim jacket the same as a blazer or vest and leave the bottom button unbuttoned ? I noticed you had the bottom button undone on the jacket you were wearing.
If you are limiting yourself to authentic Levi's denim jackets, then Type 3 two-pocket jackets are the best. The western styling of the Type 3 is more attractive than the work wear styling of the Type 1 and 2 jackets. But the primary reason Type 3 two pocket jackets are better is they are plentiful while Type 1 and 2 jackets are all worn out and exorbitantly priced. If you are buying non-Levi's imitations, then Type 1 or 2 copies are better than Type 3 copies. The Type 3 jacket is very hard to duplicate without it looking off. When hand warmer lower pockets are added to Type 3 jackets (4 pocket), Levi's or non-Levi's, it is longer and it completely loses the attractive western styling.
Do you know of any retailers with good quality black denim jackets that are sherpa lined? I was looking into Woodies but I think with navy pants or dark denim, a dark denim jacket might look tacky
Great video, thanks. Maybe a historian, who's focus lies on textiles, would have been better informed than a salesman (Those jackets are a bargain at twice the price!). I hear London has some pretty good museums with well-informed staff, as well. All told, a decent primer.
No! Like we said in the video there haven't really been variations beyond adding pockets and lengthening/widening the classic designs. Of course there are denim chore coats, utility jackets, etc out there as well
when ever i see a type ii with handwarmer pockets i cringe visibly, punch my table, punch my wall and have an agressive urge to grab the jacket and burn it
Hi Stridewise ! Musik dosn't belong to videos, where people are talking. Only the talk is important, otherwise the recipient has always to swich between musik and the talk. Your brain follows only one thing. Please overthink this!
@Stridewise no, not owned any denim jackets, for a while. They were type 3. I only knew of type 3 back then. I am now seriously considering type 1 or 2. I really like the look of them.
I know! I just never liked denim on denim and I took too long finding duck canvas that I liked. I've since realized black jeans work well with a blue denim jacket
You know you've lost touch with common sense when you are describing the type III as being a "simpler" and "cleaner" fit than the type II. I prefer it, but having really prominent v stitching is hardly the simpler design.
The Type 1 jacket shown with no pocket flap is normally know as a World Word 2 variation. There is no pocket flap, 4 buttons instead of 5 and unbranded doughnut buttons. This was due to war time restrictions.
Unreal, you should have guested on this video
Type II is classic.
Good inbetweener
They're all pretty iconic, appreciated and respected. Nothing to single out Type 2 as "classic" over the rest.
Black Type lll Sherpa lined is my go-to right now. Bulky, yet slimming with the V stitching.
Where did you get your's from? I think Levi's has them but I'm not totally sure why but my experience with Levi's products has not felt good
I will always go for a Type 3 jacket. I have a rather slim frame, so a Type 3 fits me better.
Yeah I just have to get whatever has the longest torso, I"m built like an otter
@@Stridewise Dito. What Jacket has the longest torso please? Thanks a lot 🙂
Actually, to my knowledge the info in the video is not correct. The first jacket that is shown is a WWII model type 1 jacket. The flap is missing because of the war effort to minimize fabric use. Also the WWII model has doughnut buttons with a wreath. The first type 1 jacket had a pocket flap. I cloud be wrong but this is what I’ve learned.
Also, the stitching on the pleats in the front was meant to be undone by the owner if they needed more room. If you keep the pleats stitched you don’t really have more room because the stitches don’t allow the pleats to open.
I like the look of type 3, but 2 looks nice too. I think the two chest pockets give them a nice balance and look.
What's striking to me is they're not *chest* pockets they're like, further down the torso. Very unusual!
I'm a big guy and a type 3 XL is my go to denim jacket. The others are for thinner frames (imo)
I'm definitely a Type I guy. I just did a whole series on these.
My torso is too long for a type 1 but I like the asymmetry, maybe I could find a long one somewhere!
I was just thinking last week that I wished there was a video explaining the differences between the 3, as I’ve just started getting into denim this year! Very informative!
I like the type 3. Maybe because its the one I grew up with. May have to pick another up. Thanks
Glad you liked this one Rob
HA!!! 3:04 'side pockets are a sin'.....and Nick quickly slips his hands in his side pockets.
I like the internal pockets of the type III. They are best for mobile phones.
I just bought a type 3 that's so classic/traditional there are no internal pockets and I miss them terribly. The chest pockets aren't big enough for a phone and there are no other pockets, it's torture
@@Stridewise I have two very slick looking type 3s but no pockets.
I have one type 2 and a few type 3’s. I love my type 2 but the only thing I wish it had was hand warmer pockets. I’m used to having them so I have the habit of feeling for them until I realize I have no pockets. On the bright side, it’s getting a cool patina from my hand rubbing and the fact that my arms lift it up a little when I have to put my hands in my pants pockets. It’s white cotton.
I believe recently either iron heart or momotaro released a type ii with the side pockets
I prefer type 3 with the sherpa lining. I just don't like how short jean jackets are at the waist.
I know! I bought a Type 3 (instagram.com/p/CYKDdzYoeoa/) but I had to try on a few different kinds before getting one with a waist I'm comfortable with
I love the type 2, I got an Evisu and a Sugarcane WITH handwarmer pockets
Great content as always.
I'm on a journey which is nearing its end. I have a type 1 vintage Levis jacket which I got for £10.00 off ebay. Two type 3 Selvedges, one by Bravestar, which is awesome and brilliantly made, and Nudie in their Bobby Black Rainbow which is also awesome and beautifully built.
I have one more to get. A type 2 with handwarmers (has to be functional) means I can stop obsessing. I'm thinking full battle striped Momotaro...or if I'm being subtle about it, PBJ because, it's PBJ.
Never knew there was types actually lol.
It's not denim, but I have a Levi's Sherpa Corduroy Trucker jacket that's pretty sharp looking but man I just don't care for the short length. It's supposed to be short but I think it's a bit too much for me; think I'm gonna sell it. I see some of these denim jackets aren't all short too. Short jackets kinda bug me, just not used to them and I wanna keep pulling them down lol.
That type 2 you're wearing is pretty nice.
I have an "Iron Heart" brand type 2 jacket with a type 1 back. I thought that was cool so I bought one. I got 2 dozen denim jackets each costing $500ea, my wife will divorce me, and I need a shrink to stop me from buying more.
Type 1 for me🥰
Hey, the four pleats on the front are made to be cut, if needed. so a bigger person could adjust their jacket that way.
Hi- the information the “ expert” gave regarding the Type1 is incorrect - it’s a reissue of a WW2
Version and a not a 1936 506 XX
The pocket minus the pocket flap and laurel leaf donut buttons are characteristics of the wartime version of this blouse
I love the background music. I searched it up and the pleats are for extra room if you ever needed it. I wonder how often people actually cut the horizontal stitches holding the pleats down.
I wonder that too! I guess every mf was handy with a needle and thread back in the day
had no idea there were 3 types before this video. great!
Glad you liked it!
Good video my favorites are type 2 and second the type 1 , very classics and machos...thanks .
I had type 2. cheap, lokal brand from bandung, indonesia. It's 16oz raw denim. I love it, classic. I was combinated with flanel, raw denim jeans and boots, I feel great
To the best of what I read about the squared stitching, it also allowed to widen the jacket for colder times. One would apparently cut off the stitches and would be able to layer more, and sew them back on in Spring. Not sure if that is a true thing though. Unfortunately, I do not remember where this info was from, sorry.
Didn't the owner of naked and famous at some point?
I've heard this on multiple denim head channels as I go down this rabbit hole of jean therapy
The stitching on the knife pleats would be removed if you gained weight and restitched if you lost weight. Or as someone has stated below... Just for sizing. They did do some different sizes but not like today
Right!
The original Type 1 had 8 oz thick denim, the Type 2 was definitely thicker ( 10 or 12 oz ) and the Type 3 ( I think but I’m not sure ) like the Type 2. The original Type 1 feels really different ( between shirt and Jacket ) to me ( but absolutely great ). I’m definitely not a denim expert, but I think the thickness and feels between Type 1 and Type 2 is important ( to me ), if we’re talking about the difference’s of these jacket’s.
Thanks 🙏 for this video!!
Thickness of the denim is an interesting component I hadn't thought to ask about! I'm sure it must have varied wildly, but maybe it didn't
Would say the early 506 was ,,Blouse,,type jackets ,in later years the denim was thicker...maybe i' m wong ...but you can find pics of Robert Mitchum in a 1940ies movie where he is wearing a 506 xx and it looks heavier.Early lvc 506xx from 1990ies has a fantastic 14oz denim but the later was this blousy type with the 9 or 10 oz denim , i own both ,both are nice. Regards from East Berlin
Man I love this learned a lot of history on heritage jean jackets!! Love it!! Thanks!!!
Pumped you liked it my man
Awesome video !! Thanks for taking the time so do this 🤙
You bet Joey!
It's funny, I had to choose between that Oni type 3, a Tanuki type 2 with hand warmers/inside pockets and a SDA type 2. Aesthetics won - I settled on the SDA because of its incredible 18 oz slubby/neppy denim ( GZ-011 Godzilla jacket ).
Yeesss, I might be alone on this but I feel like you can wear neppier/weirder denim on a jacket than on pants
I bought vintage singer and union special sewing machines to make jeans so this was very interesting video thank you !
I’ll take my original late 80s U.S. 🇺🇸 GAP Black 🖤 Denim Trucker Jacket any day!
I really want type 2 with type 3 cut and hand warmer pockets in thick denim. Oh boy it is hard to find
The Tanuki type 2 I'm wearing has a longer more modern fit than most Type 2s
@@Stridewise yep that one suits the description really well. Is it the ome with cobalt stiching? If yes that this is the one im saving up at the moment haha
One day they'll announce the long awaited Type 4 trucker jacket, and it'll be revolutionary.
That's so funny. I guess if Levi's did it everyone would have to take it as canonical
What do you think of the Levi’s made and crafted trucker jackets made from Selvedge denim?
great! any ideas of brands with no leather patch? There's Nudie jeans; any others?
all of them
Freewheelers and the Vanishing West are the same company are they not?
How interesting. Didn't even know there were different "types" of denim jackets.
There are! Most people just go type 3, until you wind up around heritage guys haha
Hi Nick. Should you approach wearing a denim jacket the same as a blazer or vest and leave the bottom button unbuttoned ? I noticed you had the bottom button undone on the jacket you were wearing.
Oh, you know I just felt I had a bit more mobility that way.
If you are limiting yourself to authentic Levi's denim jackets, then Type 3 two-pocket jackets are the best. The western styling of the Type 3 is more attractive than the work wear styling of the Type 1 and 2 jackets. But the primary reason Type 3 two pocket jackets are better is they are plentiful while Type 1 and 2 jackets are all worn out and exorbitantly priced.
If you are buying non-Levi's imitations, then Type 1 or 2 copies are better than Type 3 copies. The Type 3 jacket is very hard to duplicate without it looking off. When hand warmer lower pockets are added to Type 3 jackets (4 pocket), Levi's or non-Levi's, it is longer and it completely loses the attractive western styling.
What brand of trucker jacket did you wear in the video? Can you send me a link?
I’m a wider guy at 5’10” 260. I’m thinking a type 2 would fit my body type best. I really like the look of your Tanuki. How do you find their sizing?
Do you know of any retailers with good quality black denim jackets that are sherpa lined? I was looking into Woodies but I think with navy pants or dark denim, a dark denim jacket might look tacky
Great video, thanks. Maybe a historian, who's focus lies on textiles, would have been better informed than a salesman (Those jackets are a bargain at twice the price!). I hear London has some pretty good museums with well-informed staff, as well. All told, a decent primer.
get this: i did this video with a historian of textiles too ua-cam.com/video/zfKSpxulVYo/v-deo.html
@@Stridewise I will check it out. Tx!
No clue how this was recommended, but a friends dad has a type 1 from his grandfather. One pocket no cinch back. No button cuff sleeve.
Sounds like a type 1.5!
@@Stridewise They had a rep from Levi's look it over, she said it was built 1905. After that they had sleeve buttons & the cinch back.
Type 3 is the best looking, hands down.
Positioning of chest pockets decide everything. When they are placed too low, it just doesn't look cool.
yeah the type 2 is cool for some variation but there's a reason the type 3 is more popular. it just makes you look more athletic too
Great video, fascinating ❤
Yeah, type three (with pockets) all the way for me.
A wise decision
What brand of type 2 you wearing?
Mine is Tanuki's Amagumo (but Son of a Stag doesn't sell that so I was trying to be chill about mentioning that brand hehe)
@@Stridewise oh ok, i got it. Thanks Bud. It looks good on you btw.
How much the type 1 today?
Great explanation!
Glad it was helpful!
OMG 3:03 you are an icon 😂
Xcellent video I loved this
Haha thanks Doc
hope you collab with cee are dee
He's too far east! Maybe one day though
Air Force fleece?
Are there any more recent designs worth noting?
No! Like we said in the video there haven't really been variations beyond adding pockets and lengthening/widening the classic designs. Of course there are denim chore coats, utility jackets, etc out there as well
Great content as always, maybe try not to cut your guest mid sentence next time yeah
Never
@@Stridewise very well, have nice a day
Levis the best
I like the TYPE III knockoffs for Gen X
Type 3's are for dull lads. You can always spot a dresser with a type 1 or 2.
Basic bish denim jacket
I’m sorry!
The Type 3 has 14 oz! I’m not an expert 😊!!!
Everyone wears the type 3.
I grabbed an Oni one after this!
when ever i see a type ii with handwarmer pockets i cringe visibly, punch my table, punch my wall and have an agressive urge to grab the jacket and burn it
Hi Stridewise ! Musik dosn't belong to videos, where people are talking. Only the talk is important, otherwise the recipient has always to swich between musik and the talk. Your brain follows only one thing. Please overthink this!
type 1 man me mah nubian!
Type 1 or 2 not fussy.
Do you own one?
@Stridewise no, not owned any denim jackets, for a while. They were type 3. I only knew of type 3 back then. I am now seriously considering type 1 or 2. I really like the look of them.
Whatever type you want you don’t have to pay $500 plus for one, sheesh.
I still cant believe you only have one denim jacket and that is just your second one. Haha.
I know! I just never liked denim on denim and I took too long finding duck canvas that I liked. I've since realized black jeans work well with a blue denim jacket
You know you've lost touch with common sense when you are describing the type III as being a "simpler" and "cleaner" fit than the type II. I prefer it, but having really prominent v stitching is hardly the simpler design.
yeah I think "cleaner" was meant in that it's more streamlined, less boxy. but you're right, those pleats are something
Go get yourself a type 3, Nick.
I got an Oni one after this filmed! instagram.com/p/CYKDdzYoeoa/
@@Stridewise nice, looking sharp!
This guy has not a clue what he’s selling
AND YOU CAN CUT THE PLEATS ON TYPE ONE TO WIDEN FIT WHEN YA GET FATTER