How to Build a Lithium Battery Esk8 12s9P
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- Опубліковано 14 жов 2024
- This is a short video explaining the process I took to build the battery I used in my Electric mountain board build. I used LG brand cells and formatted them in a 12s9p orientation resulting in 20Ah. It was a budget build hench why I selected 2.2Ah cells instead on something like moicells 4.5 Ah cells.DISCLAIMER: I am not a professional battery builder or engineer. All my projects are done in a hobby setting and are for entertainment and education only. Attempting to replicate anything I do in my videos is at your own risk.
Good to see you clean the nickel thoroughly before soldering the wire that series connected the packs. A lot of people miss that and don't understand how important it is to solder on clean surface.
I've had a lot of luck using simple 40X40X15mm radial blower fans to blow on the areas I've just soldered to keep the heat to a minimum. I can cool a group of cells down in 5 seconds with two well placed fans. Sometimes I even point the fans towards the middle of the cans while soldering. Yes, it does fight my iron a bit but I've never noticed a major difference in time it takes me to flow enough solder and I think I can cut the temps the cell actually gets in half based on the two temp sensors and some laser thermometers I've set up pointed towards various parts of the cells. I'm a big believer in "soldering damages the cells" because the biggest expert in Lithium Ion cells has flat out said "heat is the biggest degradation factor for lithium ion". A lot of people blow that off and say they are fast enough but then I time their soldering on their UA-cam videos and they are spending 30 to 45 seconds PER TERMINAL SOLDER JOINT with an iron at 650F or higher. Micah Toll did a video where he did 3 second solder joints on each end of the cell and the thermal camera was picking up scary high temps on the outside of the cell. Not sure how much makes it into the cell but I know for a fact that is increasing the internal resistance of the cell and causing other chemical reactions that lead to degradation. You're one of the few UA-camrs I've seen to not only have a plan on keeping the heat to a minimum but actually following what you preach and making quick work of that series wire.
It looks like your spot welder is fairly strong and might be able of doing the nickel copper sandwich. Have you tried it yet? If you can't get it to work with pure nickel then using nickel plated steel (I know, yuck) will have higher resistance and give you a better weld with the nickel plated steel on top of the copper. You only need a tiny square of nickel where you are going to be placing your welds and using nickel that has the slit down the middle does noticeably help when it comes to forcing the current to jump from one side to the other, though I'm not sure you could cut tiny squares of the slit nickel and have it work as well, you might have to stick with strips that at least have some length of an inch or so. You could have gotten away with possibly doing the nickel copper sandwich for the series connection on the two packs instead of doing wire though I'm not sure if copper thin enough for your spot welder would have the ampacity for the 60-80A (?) load you're thinking will be on that strip.
Thank you for all your kind words. I appreciate you reaching out and leaving such a nice comment. I try my hardest to improve my projects as my channel grown and I learn more. I’ve always cleaned contacts as a practice I got when cleaning really old electrical board that had that thick hard resin flux. I like the idea of the fans and will have to implement that on my next build. I also have no worry for my soldering iron especially my new one. I got a older 220w soldering iron with a 1” diameter solid copper tip. Nothing can fight that one. 😂 I know my first few build had been based on soldering do to the lack of my knowledge but have happily come along way since then. As for the copper sandwich I do want to try it but haven’t had the chance to get the copper sheets this welder is a cheaper one but I did modify it pretty well. For a nice flat copper connection for the series if I was to do the sand which method I could have used 1-2” wide copper and cut slits at the corners. Then following through by folding and soldering the two points. I plan to continue improving and growing my projects and am happy to see I have viewers like you.
@@spireEngineering6523 hell yeah keep it up. Maybe all the “Creative DIY” “Creative Electronics” and “DIY Electronics” channels that have 400k subscribers and comment sections full of “wow great projekt. you are genius” will learn a thing or two about properly insulating a pack and being safe with lithium cells instead of gluing a boost converter to a bare 3S pack that’s corroded like it’s been on the bottom of a river and calling it a 150Ah battery charger because it pumped a couple Ah into a 90% degraded lead acid starter battery that has 750,000 miles under the hood of a car.
Hey great vids brother. I am looking to try and build a Battery for my Ninebot Max G30P and found this vid useful. thanks
a good job. are you going to connect bms to it
For this battery there is no bms. I mentioned I. The video I charge it externally with a isdt Q8 smart charger. That is why there are so many leads. The two xt60 and balance leads are for charging
Cool .. . Good job
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Hi mate anychance ye can show me what u done to ye spot welder ?I have this welder done the cap upgrade for low battery...weld pens are shite I get like 10 cells befor I have to stop and let it cool down...what battery I use aswell... Nice build tho
Yeah no problem… so this welder I actually had one break before so I took the green capacitor and added it in parallel to the one on the new welder. Then I added copper and solder to beef up every single connection on the mosfets. I also added a 10Awg wire to the pens and soldered it directly to the board with the original so there was less chance of resistance where it gets screwed down. Plus the extra wire caries more amps with less heat. I will do a UA-cam short explaining this with video so it is easier to visualize if you want. Oh and for the batteries it is a 3s2p spim08hp pack I built.
@@spireEngineering6523 SPIM08HP FTW. I think thats the key to your spot welder having quite a bit of punch. Of course having proper leads and electrodes will prevent a bottleneck. I've considered upgrading from 8AWG to 6AWG (or maybe even 4AWG?) to see if there is any increase in the power of the spot weld. I have a feeling 6AWG is probably the biggest needed to do 0.20mm pure nickel (800-1000A 50-75J) but for 0.30mm and copper I could see 1500+ Amps or 100+ Joules heating up 8AWG very very fast. I just have a lipo based spot welder (SeeSii in the gold case with 10,600mah Lipo) but it recently took a shit and the board no longer works. Of course the Amazon seller won't help and I haven't gotten a response from Seesii via their website.
Where did you get that special tape? Hardware store?
I got it on Amazon this is the title it’s like $10 a role right now. GGR Supplies T.R.U. FIL-795 Filament Strapping Tape: 2 in. Wide x 60 yds. (4 Mil) (Pack of 1). However it is just fiberglass reinforced packaging tape so you can probably find it cheaper
@@spireEngineering6523 thanks