One tip I picked up off the Practical Machinist forum is once your tilt and nod bolts are re-torqued it's a good idea to back each worm off into a neutral and into the backlash position. If there's a lot of tension on those worms the head can very slowly move out of tram due to cutting vibrations and away from that pressure. You should be able to rotate each worm back and forth with your fingers just a bit so you know the worm isn't applying any pressure in either direction.
Stuart - this is the most concise description I’ve seen on how to do this. And I never knew about the two step torquing sequence (I can’t believe the size of the rock I’ve been living under). I will definitely incorporate that next time I tram the head. 👍👍😎👍👍 One of the first repairs I needed to do on my 1966 Bridgeport was replace the sheared nod drive shaft that turns the worm gear. That sure was a challenge as the shaft deformation where it sheared wouldn’t allow the shaft to slide out of its bore. Eventually I welded an attachment for a slide hammer to the hex head and was able to coax it out of the bore. 🎉
Sorry I am not sure where, but I think Abom79 had a device that you could put in the mill's collet and it would hold a pair of dial indicators - one at the left and one at the right of the spindle. The procedure was something like place the device on a flat surface and zero both indicators, then chuck it up (collet it) in the mill and tilt until the readings both match. Turn the spin 90 degrees and adjust nod until they match. As long as the tool's rod is perpendicular to the holders, it works. Spin the thing around 180 degrees to verify the tool isn't bent. Looks like it could prevent a lot of back and forth.
When I was first learning to machine I had a project that would have been quick and easy if I had nodded the head by about 2 degrees. The shop supervisor put the fear of tramming so deeply into me that it took me 30+ years to learn that tramming not that bad... Instead of nodding the head, I ended up spending most of a day making a jig to hold the work at the required angle. It would have been a lot quicker to nod the head and then tram it.
Thanks for your clear and concise videos. You've got a great (fuss free) style and I am learning a lot. Please keep them coming, and for me, just starting out they are of great benefit. Cheers.
One tip I picked up off the Practical Machinist forum is once your tilt and nod bolts are re-torqued it's a good idea to back each worm off into a neutral and into the backlash position. If there's a lot of tension on those worms the head can very slowly move out of tram due to cutting vibrations and away from that pressure. You should be able to rotate each worm back and forth with your fingers just a bit so you know the worm isn't applying any pressure in either direction.
Stuart - this is the most concise description I’ve seen on how to do this. And I never knew about the two step torquing sequence (I can’t believe the size of the rock I’ve been living under). I will definitely incorporate that next time I tram the head. 👍👍😎👍👍
One of the first repairs I needed to do on my 1966 Bridgeport was replace the sheared nod drive shaft that turns the worm gear. That sure was a challenge as the shaft deformation where it sheared wouldn’t allow the shaft to slide out of its bore. Eventually I welded an attachment for a slide hammer to the hex head and was able to coax it out of the bore. 🎉
That does NOT sound pleasant. Your mill is a few years younger than mine. Just a kid really.
Sorry I am not sure where, but I think Abom79 had a device that you could put in the mill's collet and it would hold a pair of dial indicators - one at the left and one at the right of the spindle. The procedure was something like place the device on a flat surface and zero both indicators, then chuck it up (collet it) in the mill and tilt until the readings both match. Turn the spin 90 degrees and adjust nod until they match. As long as the tool's rod is perpendicular to the holders, it works. Spin the thing around 180 degrees to verify the tool isn't bent. Looks like it could prevent a lot of back and forth.
When I was first learning to machine I had a project that would have been quick and easy if I had nodded the head by about 2 degrees. The shop supervisor put the fear of tramming so deeply into me that it took me 30+ years to learn that tramming not that bad... Instead of nodding the head, I ended up spending most of a day making a jig to hold the work at the required angle. It would have been a lot quicker to nod the head and then tram it.
Thanks for your clear and concise videos. You've got a great (fuss free) style and I am learning a lot. Please keep them coming, and for me, just starting out they are of great benefit. Cheers.
I'm just learning this on day 3. Very frustrating lol
@@ISEEORBS It can be. Just try to take your time and sneak up on it. It's really easy to go too far and then you're starting over.
Wrong method of sweep
Use Grinded block on table for precise dial indication
Compressed air on the machine? Quickest way to destroy your machine.
I don't know, I could probably think of faster ways. Drop it while unloading it...sledgehammer...gas axe...thermite.
Stuart de Haro Either way you destroy the machine but compressed air will drive chips where you don’t want them