I own one as well and I have the exact first impressions as you do! The fence becomes a real issue when you’re switching from glide saw to fenced saw, if you forget to lock your fence, it will fall. Unfortunately mine fell and broke the tab that holds the plastic pusher. It was easy to set up a warranty claim using the Festool app. I will update you when I get it back. Another issue is that I don’t feel comfortable doing longitudinal 45 deg. bevels since it only tilts towards the fence. I fixed the battery issue by purchasing an extra set of batteries. Other than that, this is by far the best table saw out there for the everyone to enjoy superb German craftsmanship and precision. I rarely use my SawStop Jobsite Pro anymore, I feel safe with this little one.
Joe for your own safety, anytime you are cross cutting remove the fence. If not and that board gets bound up between the blade and the fence, YIKES !!! Right tilt table saws to me are dangerous. Especially considering I am right handed. Cutting a miter now places the waste piece under the blade. If you were to miter with the grain against the fence, your waste piece at that point has no where to go. In that instance you would have to move the fence to the other side of the blade for safety. The downfall is there isn't a lot of table to the left hand side of the blade for the fence. Limiting your board size to be cut. Right tilt table saws generally have the arbor nut to the left of the blade. . The benefit is that if you used dado blades you can still depend on the scale on the fence as a accurate measurement between the fist dado blade and the fence since the dados would stack away from the fence. FesTool makes great machines. In the portable table saw selection I'd lean towards a Saw Stop.
@@saiiiiiii1you can slide the fence back so that the front of the fence sits *just* behind the blade. Use the fence as a stop, then either clamp or securely hold your piece as you move it through the cut. That way you can do safe, repetitive cuts
I still don’t understand why a station tool is designed from the get go to be battery powered. It is designed to be used with a dust extractor attached to it- there is a gigantic “cord” already attached to it. And the dust extractor itself is plugged into the wall and in turn has an auto-on receptacle on the front of it. Why the added cost of batteries, the added weight of batteries, the limited run time and grunt of batteries (I know they are very good)? The tool is already “tethered” to one spot on the jobsite in a manner of speaking. A corded CTC would be cheaper to purchase, lighter weight, “unlimited” amperage and runtime.
from what ive gathered they intend to be completely cordless sooner than later. they do have a cordless midi that is made for dust extraction-probably to be paired with this saw.
I’m dreaming about the day when Festool will release a patch to emulate batteries pack with cord and plug. Same way as photo cameras manufactures offer battery pack size adapter to plug into electric outlet.
@chriskelvin248 Versatility to take the saw wherever when you’re just letting the saw dust fly - think flooring installs. New work sites where power is a precious commodity. If I plug a dust extractor and table saw into the saw outlet, I busting breakers all day. Don’t ask how I know. The runtime on mine is decent. As a trim/cabinet guy using this saw for ripping 3/4” maple and poplar mostly, I get most of a day with normal use. It’s not perfect, but beats my clunky Dewalt cordless saw in every way!
Pretty sure the rip fence removed will slide onto the miter fence, which opens the door to aftermarket flip stops. I have the saw and just ordered a cheap flip stop on Amazon mainly to see what fits and what won’t.
when cross cutting like that you need to slide the fence back so it does not go further thasn the start of the blade. It is designed with that feature for exactly that reason. I was waiting for that 8' x 8' square of oak to catch and KICK. It might be a small saw but i know from experience that it has some serious power. I'm not trying to be that person who gives advice to everyone about everything, this is sound advice from a person who cares about others and doesn't like to see people hurt unnecessarily. cheers jim
youre correct i already am! i still havent figured out how to make hardwood flooring reducers/thresholds. waiting on someone smarter than me to post a video lol!
Have you checked the angle of the slider with the table? I got mine today and it's not level. Off by about a degree and changing the height of the slider doesn't fix it. I'd need to put about a dozen sheets of paper on the far edge to get it aligned to the main table. I'll have to call them but wondering if yours is level or if I just got a dud.
now that you say that...when i was rabbeting out a box lid-there was enough difference in the fence vs slider cuts to be noticed. what your saying has to be the culprit! not a huge difference but you are correct-good observation! i am taking full advantage of the 30 day guarantee on this one-the run time has me concerned!
@@AkronCraftRealtorCheck with a reliable straight edge crossing the main table and the slider. If it teeters a little it’s off. And if both of ours are off there’s a good chance this is a bigger problem with the way it was machined. I’m going to the dealer today to see if their floor model has it too.
@@duanehurley2105 I noticed this, too, and the explanation I received from the tech support is that this is by design because if your sliding table were exactly level with the rest of the table, we would be scoring the main table with mitre gauge's fence and risk kickback (what?). It's not perfect, but I micro-correct it - my saw is set exactly for the sliding table when I set, for example, 90 degrees or 45 degrees, but when I'm referencing from the rip fence, I have to set +0,5 degrees, so a 90 is actually when the display says 90,5 degrees. Not ideal, but it works for me. @seantubridy804 did you put the sheets underneath the sliding table, or?
Here's something else to consider, my SCM sliding table saw is set up very similar. There are other things at play here, most people who have never used a sliding table saw before may not understand until you get used to it.
Using a miter gauge and rip fence together is the FIRST thing you are taught to NOT DO in Woodshop class. Kick back is something that needs to be seen to believe.
I have, on a 4x8 sheet of walnut ply. Large commercial set up. Dull blade and inexperience put me on the ground. But thanks buddy appreciate the concern, I'll come follow you around and surely I'll find something you do wrong too🍻
![Festool's Big Mistake [video 530]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Wc0MOV3HtjI/mqdefault.jpg)
I own one as well and I have the exact first impressions as you do! The fence becomes a real issue when you’re switching from glide saw to fenced saw, if you forget to lock your fence, it will fall. Unfortunately mine fell and broke the tab that holds the plastic pusher. It was easy to set up a warranty claim using the Festool app. I will update you when I get it back. Another issue is that I don’t feel comfortable doing longitudinal 45 deg. bevels since it only tilts towards the fence. I fixed the battery issue by purchasing an extra set of batteries. Other than that, this is by far the best table saw out there for the everyone to enjoy superb German craftsmanship and precision. I rarely use my SawStop Jobsite Pro anymore, I feel safe with this little one.
Joe for your own safety, anytime you are cross cutting remove the fence. If not and that board gets bound up between the blade and the fence, YIKES !!! Right tilt table saws to me are dangerous. Especially considering I am right handed. Cutting a miter now places the waste piece under the blade. If you were to miter with the grain against the fence, your waste piece at that point has no where to go. In that instance you would have to move the fence to the other side of the blade for safety. The downfall is there isn't a lot of table to the left hand side of the blade for the fence. Limiting your board size to be cut. Right tilt table saws generally have the arbor nut to the left of the blade. . The benefit is that if you used dado blades you can still depend on the scale on the fence as a accurate measurement between the fist dado blade and the fence since the dados would stack away from the fence. FesTool makes great machines. In the portable table saw selection I'd lean towards a Saw Stop.
Thank you brother! Fence is close but I knew better just looks bad lol! Someone else caught that too. I think he's working was yikes haha
You are correct. Using the miter gauge and rip fence together is the BIGGEST NO NO when using a table saw.
How would I get similar sized cross cuts without the rip fence as a guide?
@@saiiiiiii1you can slide the fence back so that the front of the fence sits *just* behind the blade. Use the fence as a stop, then either clamp or securely hold your piece as you move it through the cut. That way you can do safe, repetitive cuts
I still don’t understand why a station tool is designed from the get go to be battery powered. It is designed to be used with a dust extractor attached to it- there is a gigantic “cord” already attached to it. And the dust extractor itself is plugged into the wall and in turn has an auto-on receptacle on the front of it. Why the added cost of batteries, the added weight of batteries, the limited run time and grunt of batteries (I know they are very good)? The tool is already “tethered” to one spot on the jobsite in a manner of speaking. A corded CTC would be cheaper to purchase, lighter weight, “unlimited” amperage and runtime.
from what ive gathered they intend to be completely cordless sooner than later. they do have a cordless midi that is made for dust extraction-probably to be paired with this saw.
I’m dreaming about the day when Festool will release a patch to emulate batteries pack with cord and plug. Same way as photo cameras manufactures offer battery pack size adapter to plug into electric outlet.
@chriskelvin248
Versatility to take the saw wherever when you’re just letting the saw dust fly - think flooring installs.
New work sites where power is a precious commodity. If I plug a dust extractor and table saw into the saw outlet, I busting breakers all day. Don’t ask how I know.
The runtime on mine is decent. As a trim/cabinet guy using this saw for ripping 3/4” maple and poplar mostly, I get most of a day with normal use. It’s not perfect, but beats my clunky Dewalt cordless saw in every way!
this is the only reason I didn't get it.
@@funriffjay I do a lot of hardwood strip floor installs-feel the same way!!
That tabletop being brand new slick and Festool's extra nice riving knife saved your ass on that first cut.
@fredsavage4925 there was plenty of room just angle/lighting. Thanks for the tip though🍻
@@fredsavage4925 also I loved you on the wonder years!
Pretty sure the rip fence removed will slide onto the miter fence, which opens the door to aftermarket flip stops. I have the saw and just ordered a cheap flip stop on Amazon mainly to see what fits and what won’t.
great tip please lemme know how you like it!
when cross cutting like that you need to slide the fence back so it does not go further thasn the start of the blade. It is designed with that feature for exactly that reason. I was waiting for that 8' x 8' square of oak to catch and KICK. It might be a small saw but i know from experience that it has some serious power. I'm not trying to be that person who gives advice to everyone about everything, this is sound advice from a person who cares about others and doesn't like to see people hurt unnecessarily. cheers jim
That 1/2" cross cut looked like it was filmed in super slow motion. lol
All sliding table saws bevel away from the slider. You'll get use to it.
youre correct i already am! i still havent figured out how to make hardwood flooring reducers/thresholds. waiting on someone smarter than me to post a video lol!
i was thinking the same regarding floor reducers how to make it.@@AkronCraftRealtor
Good god-you’re making a dangerous cut in the first 2 seconds! That must be a record.
What's a dangerous cut?
You’re cross-cutting and using the fence as a reference. There’s a high risk of kickback.
@ryankelly2026 just looks like it, the fence was a few mm away. I've learned that lesson🤣 🍻
That’s a lot of money for a toy saw. I cannot see cutting plywood thru that little thing.
You would be correct. I use a track saw for that task.
Have you checked the angle of the slider with the table? I got mine today and it's not level. Off by about a degree and changing the height of the slider doesn't fix it. I'd need to put about a dozen sheets of paper on the far edge to get it aligned to the main table. I'll have to call them but wondering if yours is level or if I just got a dud.
now that you say that...when i was rabbeting out a box lid-there was enough difference in the fence vs slider cuts to be noticed. what your saying has to be the culprit! not a huge difference but you are correct-good observation! i am taking full advantage of the 30 day guarantee on this one-the run time has me concerned!
@@AkronCraftRealtorCheck with a reliable straight edge crossing the main table and the slider. If it teeters a little it’s off. And if both of ours are off there’s a good chance this is a bigger problem with the way it was machined. I’m going to the dealer today to see if their floor model has it too.
Mine is not level either. It may be that way for a reason. If you make that call, Will you share the response?
@@duanehurley2105 I noticed this, too, and the explanation I received from the tech support is that this is by design because if your sliding table were exactly level with the rest of the table, we would be scoring the main table with mitre gauge's fence and risk kickback (what?). It's not perfect, but I micro-correct it - my saw is set exactly for the sliding table when I set, for example, 90 degrees or 45 degrees, but when I'm referencing from the rip fence, I have to set +0,5 degrees, so a 90 is actually when the display says 90,5 degrees.
Not ideal, but it works for me.
@seantubridy804 did you put the sheets underneath the sliding table, or?
Here's something else to consider, my SCM sliding table saw is set up very similar. There are other things at play here, most people who have never used a sliding table saw before may not understand until you get used to it.
Did you change to a ripping blade when doing the rip test cuts?
Nope just the stock blade
Using a miter gauge and rip fence together is the FIRST thing you are taught to NOT DO in Woodshop class. Kick back is something that needs to be seen to believe.
It's like an inch away just looks bad from the angle. Thanks for the tip
Sooooo.... Where's the follow up?
Turn the music off. Square your video shots. That’s the first push stick you use?
I've had a larger shop made one but never a little plastic one lol. Thanks for the tips
Still TOO CLOSE. Experience a kick back just once. Then no one will ever have to tell you why that’s too close. Good luck.
I have, on a 4x8 sheet of walnut ply. Large commercial set up. Dull blade and inexperience put me on the ground. But thanks buddy appreciate the concern, I'll come follow you around and surely I'll find something you do wrong too🍻