Orange Adventures (Part 1)
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- Опубліковано 3 жов 2024
- This has been my inaugural adventure with a resin printer, complete with a new project and a sound demo.
Homepage: hexibase.com/
Facebook: / hexibase
Instagram: / hexibase
Printables: www.printables...
Thingiverse: thingiverse.com...
SoundCloud: / hexibase
Patreon: / hexibase
Amazon Storefront: www.amazon.com...
The micro transmission line model can be downloaded at: www.thingivers...
Longer 3D Orange 30 Printer: amzn.to/2uQolS7
Longer 3D LK4 3D Printer: amzn.to/2YL9X8u
Tectonic 1 1/8" Speaker: www.parts-expr...
Sauder North Avenue Sofa Table: amzn.to/2th66op
Globe Electric Swing Arm Lamp: amzn.to/30nsrMZ
Sunlite Orange LED Bulb: amzn.to/2QSVJA7
20W UV Resin Curing Light: amzn.to/2ssVjHm
White USB Turntable: amzn.to/2Nsubj3
1 Liter Anycubic Clear Resin: amzn.to/36V9bce
1 Liter Anycubic Black Resin: amzn.to/3a9axCn
Reptor Print Removal Toolkit: amzn.to/2tlxf9N
OXO Glass Cointainer: amzn.to/3878ehe
Isopropyl Alcohol: amzn.to/2TsVM7u
Binding Posts: amzn.to/36Dsia7
Wire Connectors: amzn.to/36A8rZI
Soldering Station: amzn.to/38CYmNn
I don't know how many of your viewers I speak for here, but I would love to see you make a large transmission line subwoofer for home theater. Please like this comment to show you would like to see this happen! C'mon people!
@@HexiBase try to make it as simple and cheap as you can by the way...
@@nunayafb 😂
love to see one as awell
I would love to see a 10 inch sub 3d printed
@@steweyj6281 12 inch and up. 10 not good for home theater.
Thank you for recording, and showing us a sound profile! I'm so tired of techies giving subjective opinions of sound with imprecise words.
Yeah, this guy's proving his approach... You can't help smiling when he points out his binaural setup. "This is your left and this is your right speaker." 👏🏼🤔👍🏼👍🏼
I have to say, despite the small audience you approach with your videos, you created one of the most amazing channels to watch. Everything you do is so profound, well planned and executed. You have myfull respect!
This is pure gold to my senses. I chuckled at the Matrix cutaway.
😁👍
Dude, I love how you take the time to go into the technical and scientific details - and your accuracy therein! We need more UA-camrs like you!!
Your mic setup to allow Accurate sound through for the listener is by far the best I’ve come across on youtube. I’m very tempted to print and toss one of these together for a small footprint shop radio.
Great work! Hope you get the Longer Orange sorted out.
I have a laser sla printer and I had issues you are having. Orientation is important, print at an angle not flat, though this matters on the surface area. Also, I found you MUST mix or shake up the resin very well right before you pour it into the vat. That makes a huge difference. I think the resin separates, if you keep pouring out un-mixed rasin it will get out of balance, chemically. Shake shake shake! I dig your videos!
This sounds like it could unmix even while it's printing hours long?
REDxFROG up & down motions into the liquid resin of the cured part will mix it again
The Monty Python reference is just amazing.
I'm honestly extremely intrigued in getting a standard 3D printer to design some proper enclosures for my bookshelf speakers. I've been making crappy subwoofer boxes for a few years, _trying_ to make the best of my knowledge, but I don't have any of the materials or tools to make a good set of enclosures for the speakers, and no equipment to test the performance. Having 2 massive, ghastly, unpainted MDF, hodge-podge boxes on my desk is not great, and I'm definitely not making the best use of the 20cm/8" subwoofer drivers in each of them. For reference, they're 3-way, with a small sealed upper enclosure for the midrange to give it a bit more "presence".
This channel is invaluable to DIY sound tinkerers, and is a wealth of knowledge to get into the more advanced ideas for speaker enclosures and getting the most out of the drivers in question. Needless to say, I'm intrigued how the resin box will go once you've got the replacement :)
the quality of these videos are actually insane
I am always amazed at where PUBLIC DIY has reached, private DIY must easily be 10x
Watching your videos has inspired me to purchase a 3D printer! I love diy projects! Right now I'm building my 5.2 office sound system and I wish I had a 3D printer to print my woofer cones and tweeter grills! I'm using 49/64 plywood (didn't know that existed), wood glue, liquid nails,, and 20 year old and worn out hand tools! Glad I got cherry stain and clear coat!
awwww damn i thought i knew Hi, mid and bass/sub bass but that illistration with the sounds in the background cemented it better than i thought
Yes the Orange 30 is a good intro for resin printing and I have had success with small prints only. Good to get you understanding the possibilities!
Been waiting for this content for weeks
THIS IS AN EXCELLENT CHANNEL.
Hexibase, Mr. Thank you. May the force be with you ...and Live long and prosper.
I was amazed by the resin printer since I've been using a Cr-10S for 4 years and I've never seen one but I'm loving the fact that at the end you eventually use a 3d printer to make it =)
You scared the crap out of me when you covered up the vent then talked in my right ear. I was not expecting the talking wile listening to music.
i loved the 20-60Hz sweep, it caught me out of guard. XD
I loved music since I was a little kid, because my dad always played music like Pink Floyd or Queen or AC/DC.
You are getting me closer to understand and really live the love for music as I like it to be.
Thank you for creating such valueable content.
Furthermore, I really like that You began to make speakers with 3D printing.
I’ve been highly interested in the software that is being used to modele the frequency response. It seems to take into account the material, shape, etc. It really looks like a complete software.
I would like to know what is the name of the software used to make a simulation of your speaker design!
I was just about to comment this, it would make a great video
It's called Hexibase. You can purchase it at Nowhere On Earth.
@@supersteveenglish7340 you're very clever bro and very very funny you should be a comedian
@@braddsouza4 it's his own software. Constantly improving. It's unbelievable what he can do with it & how much he can account for.
HornResp is the best free enclosure sim....this guy has no software to sim the his line
IMHO some of the best produced and watchable content on UA-cam. Thank you and I am so glad I found your channel. Top notch my friend.
Isnt that cute. She feels like she helped because she enjoys removing the pieces lol.
The problem you are seeing at the back of the prints are due to the 'semi-hardened' print still being flexible and quite thin-walled. You can simply add a second block to the print area that is sturdier that the thin-walled object, and that will keep the layers in line. Also it helps to actually add a couple of supports to the print itself, that you remove at the end.
And always wear a carbon filter mask when working with this stuff PLEASE! Never put a resin printer in a room without proper ventilation, or one that you actually live in.
Absolutely love all these experimental stuff coming from a subscriber from back in the day
Love these 3d printed speaker videos hope to see part 2 soon
Hi boss. Made two sets of these speakers. Works rather well. Many thanks. Mike in Virginia Beach
I made my own transmission line mini speaker before and learned a lot. All comes to the length of the port and speakers resonant frequency. The speaker will be mixed with amplification of higher octave frequency if the port is not converging. Convergence will act as low pass filtering, thus will only boost low frequencies. My 2 inch speaker can make bass equivalent to 4~5inch sealed box woofer, achieving response of 50~60Hz with 1.5m long PVC tube. I also tired to dampen high frequency noise with layers of paper lining inside the tube. Anyway, I think transmission line design is a great start for newbies as it only use simple Physics concept, although the speaker box might be physically huge in the end.
You are. Such a Savage. When that mid range mid base treble graph came up I immediately said thank you and screenshotted
Then you called it out ""take a screenshot" lmao. As basic as this scale is, it's actually kinda hard to find as some who doesn't already understand the scale completely and what hz is considered what range
Once again, an excellent video mate! 👌
I turned on your vids as a background sounds while finishing front grilles to my subs, and I can´t do that while you talk. So funny, so much of complex informations. At the "middle finger to my intuition" I just exploded. Keep up, awesome work!
I have an AnyCubic Photon SLA printer and I found that maintenance on the film was very important. I had a similar experience with the first few prints. Really good, okay, really bad. Once I learned to clean the film I got 15-30 prints per film instead of the 3-4 that I got with the first sets of film. I found that cleaning the film with isopropal and then wiping it dry with Kimtech wipes between every print helped out significantly.
I always come her for the technical info, still learning every time I watch. Thx HexiBase and for the old school folks PWK.
I printed these. Nicely done! These will stay on my desktop.
Glad to see another build vid in my feed by Hexibase!
If you want to glue the two resin-printed parts together you can just use the resin itself instead of any kind of glue.
Love the frequency range chart with those sound samples!
For best results do this before post curing the model
Whoever made the music, made it sound like a record being played backwards. I was more fixed on trying to figure that out than what the speakers sounded like. lol
Where's part 2?
Even though I have seen you mainly printing enclosures, I would be really interested in seeing you design and create a 2- or 3-way bookshelf speaker (from mdf or wood, sealed or ported, including crossover) - for us to reconstruct. I believe you have the knowledge and the experience to create something outstanding with an incredible value for the money. There are already quite a lot of plans out there, but only few authors are as trustworthy like you.
I love your channel so much.
Just printed a set of these. An interesting experiment for sure, and for such puny speakers it’s impressive the sound you get out of them.
That being said I wouldn’t really recommend them, out of all the hexibox projects (I’ve printed several) these sound rather plasticky and there is a distinct tube sound to them. Still, the base extension is totally impressive. and I had a weekend of fun putting it all together, super worth it.
But if you’re gonna try just keep your expectations realistic; these drivers are super tiny, and quite cheap, I don’t think any enclosure will really save them from themselves.
Of course I could be wrong, and the error might be on my end. Regardless, thanks so much to Hexibass for the incredible content and sharing his work with us all. I bought and learned to 3D print because I wanted to try your projects out and it’s been such a fun/challenging journey.
Pressed like just for the break down on the frequency spectrum!!! Dude, you're awesome!
I think ill download this and try printing it! Thanks. 🙂
YES!!! A fellow Davinci Resolve User!!! High five @Hexibase!
For a channel not in 3D printing that much ( First video I've seen of yours ). You're video is ridiculously informative, you explained SLA printing better than most do well done !
Most people who are as professional as yourself just can’t seem to make a video that’s informative and able to entertain the way you do
Moral of the story of this channel seems to be, manufacturer, test your demo unit before shipping it out for a review :D
Wow this resen printer is AMAZING. I can't wait for bigger ones of these to come out todo Dash kits for cars.
I can't wait to build one of these, I already made two sets of the bookshelf speakers and they sound amazing! Thank you for sharing the files!
Any luck with part 2?
As said before: Orientation matters. Printing out big flat surfaces is not the best idea on a rdsin printer. You should tilt the object a little bit. Also, make sure you have no isles when slicing. Isles are areas where overhang leads to slices with parts of that slice being unattached to already printed structure. Then the printer prints in "thin air". Supports need to added in that case.
Regarding the resin: Shake it up and make sure it has the right temperature.
What you can do to "glue" it together, is put a little of the resin on the joining surfaces.
You would do this after cleaning with alcohol and before final cure with the UV light.
After all this is done, you should paint it to prevent from "over-curing"
I can't wait for part 2 👁️👄👁️
Have you considered large scale fdm printing but using poured 2 part epoxy for the majority of the mass/structure? Basically you would model perimeters for all the positive space then pour to fill them. You could also fill with other pour able materials depending on the properties you wanted. 2 part urethane rubber, Portland cement, epoxy granite, etc.
Awwwwwww 😍 Cute baby speakers...
Now stack 18 of them on top of each other and create a crazy tower speaker ; )
7:49
well well well, how the turntables...
Quick suggestions for you on post-processing. Set up a system of 3 washes or 99% isopropyl alcohol. Use regular paint brushes to brush off excess photopolymer. Be sure to remove all supports before or during the first wash. After the first wash dry the part(s) with compressed air. The shiny areas are where you still have uncured photopolymer. Focus on these areas in the second bath. Dry again. Finally, rinse the third container of 99% alcohol. This is simply a final rinse. Once the first bath is too contaminated you can properly dispose of the alcohol/photopolymer solution and slide your containers down.. 2 becomes 1, 3 becomes 2, 1 becomes 3 (final rinse). You want to avoid rubbing the parts or getting over aggressive with the brushing as it is possible to start removing cured material. Once cured, or partially cured, you can do some cleanup work with a rotary tool (Dremel) to smooth out support bases, clean up details, etc. For the clear materials I'm sure you noticed they cured translucent. To get them crystal clear you need to buff and polish them with appropriate compounds to get them back to clear. The translucency is just on the surface.
Also, you can verify your parallelism of the build platform to the glass using a feeler using a 0.1mm feeler gauge. If you don't have the feeler gauge then you can still get away with the paper. You want to feel equal tension at all four corners of the build platform when you are setting home. You don't want it just sitting on the paper and tightening the bolts, you want to ensure the paper is under tension. However, you don't want the tension so tight you can't remove the paper. The tension should be, hard to describe other than, firm. You should be able to pull the paper without tearing it while still having resistance from the build platform. This tension should be equal at all four corners so you may need to adjust, then readjust the tensions. Too loose of a tension and the material won't cure to the platform / layer, and too tight of tension and you will start compressing layers, not allowing adequate material, overcuring, and possible damage to the film in the bottom of the basement (vat, reservoir, etc.). Once the film is punctured it needs to be replaced. This is also why you MUST make sure you clean the build platform completely before and after printing.
I would try rotating the part on the build platform if there is ample room so it prints corner to corner to try getting it away from the outer edges of the build envelope. Also, all those supports are overkill. The supports between the build platform and part are ample for holding and supporting the part. The only place supports would be needed are coming down to support the leading edge of interior walls. Generally any less than a 30° angle does not need supports. But if you visualize the leading edge of the interior wall you'll see there's nothing above it to support it so you do need those supports.
Also, with the orientation of the part, the photopolymer will have a tendency to puddle and this could be whats causing problems on the bottom of the print. Perhaps printing the part on a slight angle to help drain material while printing and avoid large flat surfaces could work. Also try *slightly* increasing the exposure times per layer. Perhaps flipping it 180° and printing the flat edge first would be a good solution at well.
you should get some poly-smooth pla that you can vapour smooth with isopropyl to see if smoothing the layer lines effects frequency issues. i would say that the higher the frequency the more it bounces through the system and the higher chance it has to be deformed by the layers of the print
I did see something similar to this printer (Just a bit bigger) when I visited Red Bull Racing in Milton Keynes in 2005. They used it to produce small aerodynamic parts for the air intake of radiators and engine. And probably some places that they did not tell us about.
damn, those small speakers are impressive
@@HexiBase have you thought about printing some horn loaded mini speakers??? like this one and maybe do a comparison: like transmission line vs sealed vs bass reflex vs horn loaded
@@HexiBase a 3d printed TV sound bar would be great. What about some Chinese speakers for it?
kinda want them for my horrible sounding tv
@@leondantas You need to do a lot of processing on sound to make a soundbar sound right ))
@@leondantas tectonics are chinese speakers :)
Just found your channel today and ive already started to binge watch lol!
But i have to ask, has there been any update on sorting the printing issues?
One thing you have to watch for with these resin printer is that the LCD screen under the build vat can get damage if you have left over resin crumbs in the vat. As the build plate comes down it can push the crumbs into the FEP and into the LCD screen. Net result is an LCD screen with small holes which shows up as really weird 3D prints. I have a Phrozen Shuffle in which I only got 3 models before these problems showed up. I ended up replacing 2 of these LCD screens at $90 bucks each. On the third replacement screen, I bought a tempered glass protector designed for a Wanhao screen and put that screen protector between the LCD screen and the FEP. No more shitty prints with drop outs.
In the sub bass region, where most subwoofers seem to come into play, I’ve found that anything below 30 Hz or so is basically flutter. From around 30 Hz upward the sub bass region becomes musical. In my early attempts at building my own speakers I focused my attention on reaching all the way down to 20 Hz, but after I got my current system, which uses two two way speakers rated from 45 Hz up tp 23 kHz for the mains and 23 Hz up to about 250 Hz for the sub I found that the frequencies any loser than 28 to 30 Hz weren’t really pleasant and not used in music unless the musician is playing a Synthesizer. Then other Musician must be careful about the lower frequencies are used as the Flutter of the lowest audible frequencies can fatigue the listener’s ears. So now I focus on around 28 to 30 Hz for a full range loudspeaker design. Do you agree Pete?
Oh, and hey Sophie!
Surround sound system with these skip bose all-together
Very cool, I am glad I subscribed. I built some TL floor standing units that support a 10" woofer and a dome mid & tweet. That was 42 years ago. Each cabinet weighs 98Lbs.
An Omron calculator did the heavy lifting
I love seeing your videos pop up and hearing the end results of your experiments on my sennheisers!
@@HexiBase I know u tested it yourself but I think its a good representation
I was thinking about this very idea for a 3D printer... would love to be able to buy this
I have a pair of standard Senheiser 280 over ear headphones and this is the first I knew they were on backwards. The rotational joint above the angle joint makes them so that they don't usually fit on my head.. I doubt you necessarily feel as such but this setup of yours put some perspective on what it means to be an audiophile.
I think you should print the shell upside-down, so there's no droop issue on the horrizontal wal
Try a layer of foam or other absorbent material on the face of the enclosure. Alternatively maybe a sheet suspended internally behind the drivers (firm to the walls but splitting the "chamber" in half) may also help with the beaming and may be more effective. I suspect the first resonant chamber has something to do with creating it unless it is a direct driver construction level artifact.
You could try using gyroid infill and filling the prints with epoxy or polyesther resin
Notice the $80 Class D amplifier. You don’t need a $1200 HiFi amplifier for quality sound
The print would have come out much better if oriented diagonally, as resin printer is not the strongest in printing flat surface.
try at least a 10 -15 degree shift so that the flat surfaces are not parallel to the build platform. also consider making sure the printer resin is warm, so it flows well between layers, if its cold in garage, put space heater , or move to ventilated bathroom.
Egh I'll stick with my thermoplastic printers LOL Between the small build area, toxic liquid resin, cleanup, temperature requirements and additional curing, it sounds like way to much hassle! Lol 😉
@@smartroadbiker As he pointed out, resin printers are better for things when you need insanely tiny details to show. He mentioned D&D mini's and those are usually around 28mm-32mm tall and have not really been all that great when printed with plastic printers. That's why having both types isn't a bad idea, especially as they are getting more affordable. Using tabletop gaming as an example, you use resin printers to print the miniatures, while plastic printers print the terrain. Depending on the level of detail needed, vehicles could be a combination of the two where plastic is used for the bulk of the model, but has resin bits for the more detailed spots.
Just a guess but, one problem a lot of people have when they're new to resin printing is not mixing their resin thoroughly enough, some resins separate more than others and need way more mixing than you'd think.
However I will say I have only ever used industrial grade SLA/DLP/continuous DLP printers so there could be a problem I've never run in to on the lower end printers
Really impressed with your video quality, editing, story line, the project, your 3D modeling, your sound engineering knowledge.... Wow. Oh and yea, even the sound! 😉
Dude that mic set-up is way better for listening to the test.
@@HexiBase got a question. For a T-line is it better to have the port closet or farther away from the driver? It was my understanding that you want it as close as possible. However in a diy speaker group I am in. A few guys said that it is better to have the port as separated as possible.
Great work 😀
Thanks for sharing 👍😀
Major difference when covering the vent at 13:20 .
For gluing 3d printed parts I recommend devcon plastic welder over jbweld. It cures faster and is quite strong.
@@HexiBase My best suggestion would be resin - "painting" the mating surface with resin and curing them together should work.
For large parts like this box, two component epoxy should do the trick
Taking a guess that the upper-range irregularities may be baffle step?
Pity you did a model on that will barely fit on this sla printer from longer that doesn't seem to be working very well. I have an elegoo mars pro and the stl file will not fit within the build volume of my printer. Don´t get me wrong, it is a fantastic video and I wanted so bad to build this kind of speaker.
This is so damn cool... you've just signed me up to many lost years of obsessive hobbying on many fronts... thanks, ha : )
I always love to watch your videos. They are so well done and professional, keep up the great quality😁
Some thoughts on those upper band irregularities: Building a small anechoic chamber will help with the accuracy of your measurements. Anechoic measurements never match measurements taken in a space. Also, it is a standard practice to aim the measurement mic directly at the source, although it is a an omnidirectional pressure microphone, they still do have some high frequency directionality due to diffraction from the physical microphone itself.
Dude, your videos are excellent! Very well done and always great to watch.
you don't know it but you've just become a 3d printer reviewer channel. congratulations.
Full Range Drivers w notch filters on a printed passive radiator box... somethin i just wanna see built :-)
Neat small build, these would be great for my daughter's bedroom. Thanks for the great videos!
Great video, as always.
when he snapped in L/R ears, I discovered I've been wearing the wrong headphones in each ear for the last 6 months...
New sub here. 3:29, How did you know I'm doing a "Screenshot"?! 😁
I am just so glad I saw your vids. Though I am not able to do what you just did, at least there is this spark in me that says I can do this in the coming days, with the designs that I have in mind, of course. Thanks! Great video/audio recording and editing by the way. Very clear and audible.
What's the influence of the materials of the casing? Are softer materials worse?
Remember this with resin printing, always point the surface that you care the most away from the build plate.
You are just awesome.
You are not a primary 3D printing channel but dropping knowledge like laser guided bombs, on point.
You just don't say do that, you tell why it is such a rare treat today.
Awesome videos! I think as the frequency goes up, the 2 drivers playing same frequencies will become ragged: especially placed horizinally.
i have used these bmr speakers a ton and one thing that i have found is that they need to be broken in. After they are broken in the wake up and sound fantastic. I would love to see the frequency response on this speaker from where you tested it and after you have run it for 60+ hours.
small transmission lines are in bose wave radios for many years.
This was my first view of your channel. Super thorough, very nice content.
I had actually taken a screenshot a moment before his suggestion. He knew. D:
SAME