Visit www.kiwico.com/tested to get 50% off your first month of KiwiCo with code TESTED Adam Savage's Favorite Tools: Great Budget Vacuum Former: ua-cam.com/video/RWxCvMzvxlQ/v-deo.html Budget Dental Vacuum Former: amzn.to/3uYd3Ez .03" Styrene sheets: amzn.to/3pwUQwH
I really felt like the newb at the shop, and the boss said "hey.. Adam is over there using the vac-former.. go.. uh.. LEARN something." And I was like "Hey Adam. Whachadoin?" Now we are just hanging around the former as he casually firehoses a lifetime of knowledge and enthusiasm in between frantic pulls. It was the most natural "you are really there" videos in a while.
Adam, just a suggestion for your vacuum former. You might want to think about adding a foot switch to turn on your vacuum, being you seem to need two hands to drop your plastic and use your helper. It may help if you use a foot switch to parallel the foot switch with your vacuum toggle switch. To allow you to let off of your foot switch and still keep the vacuum running. ( added thought )
I have an old radio shack foot switch with a pass through plug that will turn on a shop vac this way, no wiring needed. I also worked on a machine with a push button under the frame that kicked on the vaccume the moment it hit the plate.
The few tips not included (& also upgrade suggestion for mr Savage): - have a compressed air pistol around if you can - you can use it to cool down the plastic faster and also blast air between the blank & plastic if it gets stuck (less destructive than mechanically prying parts apart with pliers etc.) - FOOT PEDAL for suction is such a helpful thing when you're already doing 2+ things with your hands and trying to precision anything. Back in UAS we had this -60'ish industrial 50x50 cm vacuum former *thing* to first learn with and it had massive bent bar for foot "pedal" that moved the parts & jammed them together.
Adam, you are an ocean of knowledge. Sharing a few splashes with us is always desperately needed in the amateur making community. A “how to” video from you is incredibly valuable
I wish you would make more videos like this, Adam. I understand the hesitation, but you have a unique cross section of skills, and sharing your knowledge and techniques would be a huge benefit for makers everywhere.
When I design a buck for vacuum forming, I put it on a tapered pedestal to elevate the part about the bed. I put a bevel on the top of the pedestal to put a cutoff line at the bottom of the part. I can then take a Sharpie, draw into the groove, and that gives me an easy to see cut line. Someone else mentioned having compressed air on hand - you can drill small holes into the master pattern to provide air channels to suck down the plastic into difficult areas. By cutting a countersink on the bottom of the pedestal where the hole exits you have a place where you can put the rubber tip of your blow gun to help with the de-molding process. These air channels do leave small depressions on the part, but they are easily filled, or can be placed in areas that are later cut away. This makes pulling the part off the buck much easier.
When I was studying industrial design I was taught to use thin piano wire cut to a chisel tip with heavy side cutters as a long drill bit. We made bucks from MDF and filler and would drill many small holes in concave edges to help the plastic pull in where we needed it too. Our machine had hand pump vacuums and preformed surprisingly well.
Just like some parts of your audience, i am also interested in vacuum forming; yet don't have any practical experience. I also suffer from ADHD, stumbling upon a video of you covering not just how to do things but also mentioning the background (what to feel when you fail, especially.) boosted my mood in a way i cannot even describe; As i also know the hardships of learning a hobby-job (or in your case, literally art) with a condition literally acts against any sort of progress, I can safely say that what you do here is not just teaching stuff but literally being a beacon of hope. One may watch hours of motivation videos, but nothing will replace your genuine and sincere explanations about your experiences. Thanks for everything.
I used to make hot tubs, we would vacuum form 9ftx9ft sheets of 5/32 thick acrylic. We formed over negative molds that was made of fiberglass and bodyfiller. They had interchangeable parts that would key in, like head rests, neck jets, or crotch jet.... 1 thing we did was 1/16 drill holes in the inside corners because the vacuum would struggle to pull detail as the air became locked in the voids of parts
If you have a DLP printer and print a cavity (negative) of the part you want you can get all the surface detail and use a thick 2mm material. I’ve used this process to model up injection formed plastic enclosures for tools and shells for products. Plaster casts of objects works too (how I learned in the 90’s) and the vaccume form can pick up leather texture and stone granular surfaces this way. The best part is any webs you get are all on the inside and you can get pulls that can go straight to paint with no sanding.
I got that 5" x 5" vacuum former for dentists that you mentioned a while back. I've been using the sides of gallon milk jugs to make reusable catfood can lids. Thanks for sharing even more knowledge.
Hey bro, you don’t have to be the top, the best, the end all be all. In fact the most helpful thing, and the most healthy thing, is to just show one way that works. You have great filming and editing skills, so you’ll make really helpful videos for entry level folks like me. If someone else has a way to improve on what you show, then great! I still want to see several people do it their way.
Adam is the reason I built a vacuformer years ago. It’s 30” x 28” platten, de-icing heater elements, an old air compressor tank and a vacuum pump from a printing press. Works great.
Thank-you for sharing your knowledge! Every time I watch you using this vacuum former I think it would make it much easier to do solo with a foot pedal to turn on the vacuum.
I used to work for Lockheed Martin on the external tank for the Space Shuttle program. I got to do some vac-form work in the R&D department making test mock-ups. Most people didn't care for it. I thought it was fascinating!!
Back when the first LotR movie was going to be released I with some friends made a few orcs for a local convention contest. We spent 3 months with ABS sheets, a vacuum former and heat guns. We used bad pulls of C-3PO pieces to create 2 Moria orcs. We even hand cut and molded the helmets that took two days each. I love how quick yet easy to do with simple stuff. We had a 2'x2' table made out of 2x4"s and steel mesh, pulled with a restricted shopvac. We took first place in the contest and we got to meet Sean Austin in costume.
My first job was at a thermoform plastics company in Auburn WA. They had bottom and top platins. The bottom platin would push the buck up into the plastic and when needed the top platin would have the "helper" box that would come down as the bottom platin was coming up and would meet in the middle and completely eliminate gussets when dialed in. The smallest vac oven was 4'x5' and the largest was 6'x8'. They had a fireman's hat that you would sign when you f'd up the timing and had the whole sheet of plastic melt down into the lower heating elements that were covered with chicken wire to prevent direct melt down into the elements. It was fantastic job for a young maker. They let me go after I complained about bloodborn contaminant risk after a worker horribly cut himself bandsaw cutting uphill and got blood everywhere. Worst bandsaw injury I'd ever seen.
Mr Savage, I adore your work and want to thank you deeply for sharing your wisdom. The joy you show about your work is incredible. All the best for you and your loved ones.
What I love as some one who's tutored and taught and has ADHD.. is to watch Adam, bouncing around the topics like I do.. I've had some people go 'can you just focus on x'.. not realising that our brains are jumping to the tangents and we will cover everything.. just.. let us go.. you'll get more info than you ever imagined.. unless we have gone full ADHD and forget what we were meant to be doing. Few also understand the full challenges of being a semi functional adult with ADHD.
There's another kind of 'helper' that is easy to make that you might like to know about: saw up some little wooden trapezoids (4 sided truncated pyramids) and position them near where you expect to get drooping folds. This will give the extra plastic something else to do, so to speak. I used to vacuform plastic hatch covers and other features for model boats and this trick gave us perfect parts every time. Never tried baby powder as a release; thanks for that! 🙂
As an orthopedics technician trainee: vacuum forming test sockets from 400x400x15 mm sheets of thermoplastics onto plaster positives is about 1/3 of what I do all day. It's always fascinating. Wonderful to see that basic technique being used for so many different things as well!
The Vac-U-Form machine was made by Ron Charles & Associates (RC Vac-U-Form) in Wilmette, Illinois (Chicago area), circa 1988 to 1991. I recently inherited the smallest sized machine from my old employer, a St. Louis area professional model shop that just closed. That machine was $450 new in January 1990. The 'Deluxe' model allowed for use of 9" x 12" sheet stock (8" x 11" usable space); the 'Deluxe XL' was made for 12" x 18" sheet stock (11" x 17" usable), and the 'Supra Deluxe' used 16" x 24" (15" x 23" usable). The 'Deluxe' model measured 24" tall, and the footprint was 13" x 10.5". It weighed about 35 pounds.
Another source from around the same time period was Lone Wolf Productions - I have an 12 x 9, and a 6 x 4 inch from them. They had a slightly better construction, with an integrated clamping system for the sheet, and variable temperature control, although I almost always form on full power.
One trick I've used is an alternate version of your helper. A bigger (not taller) ring around the buck under the plastic, so you pull over it. Really helps eliminate webbing.
I encountered an opportunity to do packaging design for a new product. Knowing of Vacu-forming as a method but, not having enough experience with the methods I needed some good information. As always, Adam came through. In just a few moments of watching Adam, I have enough information to have a first go at prototype packaging for the project. I also learned I can build-out a vacu form rig for the prototype without having to buy a production machine. So WIN WIN! Thanks Adam. Keep up the good work!
As a part of my R/C hobby I paint and detail Lexan bodies for my cars and trucks. The interesting part is they are painted on the inside, so you have to reverse the process, doing the details first and the main body color last. One challenge is mixing the Acrylic lacquer paint because the factory automotive colors are based on Enamel and nothing matches easily! For example, '57 Chevy Turquoise has FIVE colors in it! I have an old Hot Rod magazine with paint dots all up and down the margins from mixing a batch for a '57 Chevy pickup I did as a "Cameo" (white top). One trick I discovered is to use a "Sharpie" marker to detail panel lines on the outside of the body. Make a mistake and a little rubbing alcohol takes it right off... I worked (briefly) for a vacuum forming company years ago and we used 4x8 foot sheets of ABS and HDPE to make (among other things) golf cart bodies and school bus dashboards. BIG patterns and incredible details!
What you are calling a gusset is usually referred to as webbing. The "helper" is a great idea. I have also been told that if you get a lot of webbing that you can try heating the plastic less. I have heard both let the plastic sag the height of your buck and let the plastic sag half of the height of the buck. Professional machines have thermostats and temperature displays so the exact desired temperature for a specific buck can be dialed in.
When you mentioned kydex, that is used to make many different things, especially gun holsters, and some of the ways that is vac formed is just incredible, to include using a vacuum former that has a membrane so you can use smaller size sheets.
This video is very timely. I know you said this isn't a how to video, but this still very helpful to me. I recently start vac forming and learned a lot of useful tips for problem I've encountered. I've mostly been experimenting on stuff from around the house. Small bowls, lids, old phone cases, tent stakes (big mistake), and some small boxes. My favorite has been a tea infuser. A lot of gussets around that one. But now I know a couple of way to deal with those, thanks.
I love all the different names for moulds, bucks etc Ive always called those ‘gussets’ webbing 😀 Ive often used an off cut of wood to help push the plastic down to avoid them. Can sometimes use a sacrificial bit of wood next to where its forming to slow it down
Love seeing this. I work industrial maintenance for a manufacturing plant. We produce Togo boxes by thermo- vacuum forming. Seeing the large production at work all the way to this scale is truly unique.
As a kid I had gotten (I think it was Mattel) vacuum form machine. It took 4" x 4" sheets so you made about 1:87 scale boats & cars (all I can remember). Big machine, had a flipping sheet holder that sat over the heater, then you flipped the holder over the mold & pressed a built in hand pump to draw the soft plastic over the mold. Wish I had it now that I know how to do vacuum forming right. Would be making a lot of detail loads for my trains.
This video brought back memories. When I was young, in the. 60's, I had a toy vacuformer. It took a 3 x 3 sheet of plastic. The heater was beside the vacuum plate, with a hinge. When the plastic was hot enough to sag, you flipped it over the form and pumped the vacuum manually as fast as you could.
Suggestions... 1) Add a foot pedal to start the vacuum with maybe a latching relay/contactor to latch it on and a stop button on the cabinet. 2) Maybe something like a darkroom timer to monitor/control the heat up time. More useful for the thicker materials. Then you can keep notes on times for the various materials. I had instrument cases made from the thicker ABS type stuff and when you mentioned using very thin polystyrene the only thing I could think of were those cheap Halloween masks you wore as a kid.
Love this, Ive been wanting to build a vacuum former for ages. I think the foot pedal idea people have mentioned is a great one. I would also say move the clamp for the frame to another side so it not in your way when you pull the plastic down.
I loved this, more 'guide' like videos would be so amazing! I'd love to have a whole compendium of Adam teaching how he does things and all his tips and tricks within!
Thank you for this! I recently got my first vacuum form device, I'm making chocolate molds as my first run with it. I got lucky getting mine. The store my partner works at has a customer friend who regularly goes thrifting and found about ten small vacuum machines at a Re-Store, he bought them all and was selling them for $10.00 to makers who were interested.
Perfect time for this video , I was just messing around trying to vacuum form a blister pack for a custom figure I made. After a few fails i should be getting some more plastic today for attempt #2. Thanks for the tips
Adam, you should sign all of these test vacuum molds and sell them as limited edition art on your website. Thanks for sharing all of these great tips and tricks. Nicely done.
As a Sign Fabricator for 40 years your explaination of the TESTD Brand was spot on. the way that I do may not be the best way. You half to find you Own. Human's
Fantastic video Thank you for sharing and can't wait to see what's next. Everyone keep yourselves and love ones safe and healthy and remember to SMILE 😊God Bless 🙏
I worked making visibility balls for power lines for a few years, brutal HOT work. ABS sheets go into oven the size of a car, while its warming up we hop in the form and wipe down the mold to keep it cool, jump out before the oven opens and plastic comes out, form comes together on the plastic vacuums engage, pull it out load another. easier than working at the woodmill throwing 2x4 and plywood all day
One detail that wasn't covered, that I have noticed doing vacuum forming, was the stages of how the plastic gets soft. First the plastic warps and softens unevenly. Then you'll see it smooth back out nearly to its original shape. This is the start when you can pull. Lastly, it starts to droop. For ABS and other thick materials, you might need to heat it till it starts smoking. Another method of getting a clean edge on the base of the part is to raise it a bit off the vacuum plate then "ride" the vacuum so it doesn't undercut too much. It's crazy the materials and the objects you can vacuum form. I once used 1/8" polycarbonate. We had to heat it up to a crazy amount which expanded the gas inside, creating a cool texter of air bubbles. We were pulling mushrooms for a tree for Meow Wolf, and we had to pull about 30 of them. Our vacuum form was a wreck after that. I've also vacuum formed piles of gold with seashells, skulls, crabs, and chains. Things that you would never vacuum form but if you do it right and a tiny bit of patchwork and a good paint job, it can turn out amazing.
I don't know if anyone has covered this but you mentioned especially on the small vacuum forming machines which I now own thanks to you, you can get polystyrene in colors if you want to use solo brand plastic dinner plates. They make them in red and blue for sure and I watched the demonstration of a solo plastic plate being vacuum formed. Obviously someone is making the product for solo.
Hey Adam, awesome guide! Some additional information about models, though. As an avid model builder NOT all models are PS! I have quite a few that are ABS. Definitely check what material the kit you're modifying is made with when you make your plan of attack. It's usually indicated somehow in the manual or on the runner itself.
Maker expertise collision: A fellow maker and skilled saddler saw me vacuforming, and suggested I try a boning tool--like she uses for shaping wet leather over a buck--to reduce buttresses and improve detail. I substituted a tongue depressor first (since I had one on hand), but the boning tool is better because it has different contours you can use, and holds up better. Now one lives in a pocket on the side of my former. But you have to be quick!
We used to form with ABS and HIPS and we found that hips would sag, tighten then sag a second time. The second sag was the golden spot. Our vacuum former was an oven and a mdf side dresser with a hole drilled in it and an old vacuum cleaner fitted in it. We used off cut tiles to raise the form off the dresser as to not plug over the vacuum hole. Was still an effective vacuum former though
Ha! Back in the day in printing if our powder sprayer was down we would put powder in a couple of shop rags and rubber band them for the same purpose! For anyone interested; offset printing presses have a air powder sprayer that sprays just a little bit of powder on top of each sheet in the delivery stack for coated paper to keep the wet ink from offsetting onto the back of the next sheet…. We only used it for coated stock like Gloss and Matte
I worked in the dental industry for years and we used vacuum forming all the time. There's lots of different materials you can use if you look into it. Also they use smaller form factor vacuum machines in dental that you can find secondhand every once in a while for cheap.
now that I've been working at a horse farm, 'mucking it up' has a deeper meaning; great exercise tossing 30 gal muck tubs though! p.s. I'd Red Green the cart with some brackets; 'it's only temporary unless it works!' I think is the saying? :) Adam has such a beautiful personality it brightens up rough times.
Dude! We would all love to learn anything you’re willing to share. No one is the end-all be-all experts on a subject s, there always something else to learn.
A vacuum former is on my list of things I need to build myself. It would be great to make a nice body for radio control vehicles and be able to easily just make a fresh one when it gets too beat up.
they way i see it, Adam is more of a town at a crossroad, pulling things in from different places and exposing many things that i would not have found on my own
In high school the plastic shop I worked in we used two pizza ovens and machined presses. We did also use foot pedals for the vacuum, I remember when we went to the foot pedals it was so much easier heh.
I made blisters for a small product with A4 clear PVC sheets... works, it was the stuff I had laying around... you really need to ventilate well there.
Brings back memories of Vac-Man, Creepy-Crawlies and the Easy-Bake-Oven (For kids) Along with erector set and chemistry sets and that thing from Radio Shack when you connect wires it does things.
Considered putting a touch switch on the edge of the base to automatically turn on the vacuum when the plastic is brought down? If the existing vacuum switch is kept in the switch circuit it could allow for manual and automatic modes of turning on vacuum.
Interstate Plastics up in Sacramento sells .040 white styrene - I just bought a couple of 4 X 8' sheets last week for my vacuum form, and they were about 20 bucks a sheet. Cut them up myself, but they offer cutting and shipping services.
Vacuum forming and learn by mistake; I won't forget (probably ever) ruining piece of perfectly good polycarbonate sheet for making a mock-up of a food container back in UAS studying industrial design. Weell.. ruining is one way to describe it - turning it into art is another. :P It was left-over piece that had been sitting on shelf for years so it should had been put into oven over night to dissipate/draw moisture out of it. I however didn't know that at the time, all I knew was that "oh, that's perfect size for my lid" and vacuum formed it as is. It does its job as the lid, sure, but it's also very artistic with millions tiny bubbles that popped up when the sheet was heated up. You know.. invisible water "droplets" that are sucked into plastic in improper storage put under 500+ celsius heating coil for ~30 seconds => very *artistic* gas expansion. All I can say 8 years later is that it was very good demonstration of how plastic really grabs moisture from air in storage - and how happy I am that the piece actually was mostly a scrap piece because how expensive 2mm clear polycarbonate sheet is - got a bit chewed from our teacher for wasting it but overall turned into a learning experience so hey..
Just to add, I love this video, and it is timely, since I just built my own vacuum former because the Kenner b-wing I have is missing it's canopy. I plan to shape one out of PETG.
Adam my mom makes sugar flowers as a hobby and a number of years ago she bought herself a Wilton Cornstarch Duster. It does exactly what your bandana hack does and comes in its own self-contained container.
For a number of years I worked with a fluid cell press in making aircraft skins and parts. Though that is obviously a little more complicated than vacuum forming, the concept and process is identical.. Good job here and good tips as well. :)
I can just barely remember, when I was a kid, 60+ yrs ago, there was a vacuum forming toy by Mattel(?). Turn it on, set a plastic blank over the form, turn it n, you could made part to build an army jeep, I think. Wanted one desperately.
I've never even been interested in vacuum forming an I find this super interesting, it looks so much simpler than I expected. I understand using thinner sheets makes it a lot easier to get good looking fine details, but what's the downside? If I had to guess, it makes the plastic tear more easily if you pull it down too hard over a sharp shape?
You know how FUN it would be to have Adam as a shop class teacher in High School!... I wouldn't ever wanna leave that class haha. Feel like every student would graduate as masters of that art after only taking his class for a year
I added a magnet to my plastic frame and a reed switch to the vac-u-form machine so as soon as the frame is pulled down the heat turns off and the vacuum turns on as soon as the magnet is in place.
I would love to see a video showing various ways of which the vacuum formed pieces are used. I always see videos of how to form, but never this is how we used the piece in our project.
I haven't made vacuformer yet, I have had a novel idea though you would be able to try if you wanted, if you have a 3d printed tuned well you can create flat sheets with no top layer, and 100% infill, just a few layers thick, it gives a really interesting sci-fi armor texture and reflects light in really interesting ways, its occured to me that armor pieces could be printed out flat and then lightly vacuformed into shape, hopefully still retaining that unique texture.
As a child I had a Willie Wonka Chocolate Factory chocolate bar making kit. It had vacuum formed chocolate molds to make the bars, along with preprinted Wonka wrappers.
In addition to the normal on/off switch it has a foot switch for the vacuum seems like a decent idea for that process, or perhaps switch that's triggered by the frame when it's placed in it's ready to vacuum position.
Visit www.kiwico.com/tested to get 50% off your first month of KiwiCo with code TESTED
Adam Savage's Favorite Tools: Great Budget Vacuum Former: ua-cam.com/video/RWxCvMzvxlQ/v-deo.html
Budget Dental Vacuum Former: amzn.to/3uYd3Ez
.03" Styrene sheets: amzn.to/3pwUQwH
How tall can an item be when vacuumforming?
Is it as tall as the sheets are wide?
I don’t see the name of the styrene dealer that was going to be linked. Please post a link. Thanks !
I really felt like the newb at the shop, and the boss said "hey.. Adam is over there using the vac-former.. go.. uh.. LEARN something." And I was like "Hey Adam. Whachadoin?" Now we are just hanging around the former as he casually firehoses a lifetime of knowledge and enthusiasm in between frantic pulls. It was the most natural "you are really there" videos in a while.
Adam, just a suggestion for your vacuum former. You might want to think about adding a foot switch to turn on your vacuum, being you seem to need two hands to drop your plastic and use your helper. It may help if you use a foot switch to parallel the foot switch with your vacuum toggle switch. To allow you to let off of your foot switch and still keep the vacuum running. ( added thought )
I have an old radio shack foot switch with a pass through plug that will turn on a shop vac this way, no wiring needed. I also worked on a machine with a push button under the frame that kicked on the vaccume the moment it hit the plate.
Or have the switch on the same side as one of the handles
Came here to say this!
Added a foot switch to my drill press. Changed my life.
Yep, I had the same thought about halfway through the video. A foot pedal to activate the vacuum might be really handy for his setup.
The few tips not included (& also upgrade suggestion for mr Savage):
- have a compressed air pistol around if you can - you can use it to cool down the plastic faster and also blast air between the blank & plastic if it gets stuck (less destructive than mechanically prying parts apart with pliers etc.)
- FOOT PEDAL for suction is such a helpful thing when you're already doing 2+ things with your hands and trying to precision anything. Back in UAS we had this -60'ish industrial 50x50 cm vacuum former *thing* to first learn with and it had massive bent bar for foot "pedal" that moved the parts & jammed them together.
Adam, you are an ocean of knowledge. Sharing a few splashes with us is always desperately needed in the amateur making community. A “how to” video from you is incredibly valuable
I wish you would make more videos like this, Adam. I understand the hesitation, but you have a unique cross section of skills, and sharing your knowledge and techniques would be a huge benefit for makers everywhere.
When I design a buck for vacuum forming, I put it on a tapered pedestal to elevate the part about the bed. I put a bevel on the top of the pedestal to put a cutoff line at the bottom of the part. I can then take a Sharpie, draw into the groove, and that gives me an easy to see cut line.
Someone else mentioned having compressed air on hand - you can drill small holes into the master pattern to provide air channels to suck down the plastic into difficult areas. By cutting a countersink on the bottom of the pedestal where the hole exits you have a place where you can put the rubber tip of your blow gun to help with the de-molding process. These air channels do leave small depressions on the part, but they are easily filled, or can be placed in areas that are later cut away. This makes pulling the part off the buck much easier.
When I was studying industrial design I was taught to use thin piano wire cut to a chisel tip with heavy side cutters as a long drill bit. We made bucks from MDF and filler and would drill many small holes in concave edges to help the plastic pull in where we needed it too. Our machine had hand pump vacuums and preformed surprisingly well.
Just like some parts of your audience, i am also interested in vacuum forming; yet don't have any practical experience. I also suffer from ADHD, stumbling upon a video of you covering not just how to do things but also mentioning the background (what to feel when you fail, especially.) boosted my mood in a way i cannot even describe; As i also know the hardships of learning a hobby-job (or in your case, literally art) with a condition literally acts against any sort of progress, I can safely say that what you do here is not just teaching stuff but literally being a beacon of hope. One may watch hours of motivation videos, but nothing will replace your genuine and sincere explanations about your experiences. Thanks for everything.
My concealed carry inside the waistband holster is vacuum formed. It's very low profile and I love the technology of VAC forming.
This dude is just an amazing human being.
I used to make hot tubs, we would vacuum form 9ftx9ft sheets of 5/32 thick acrylic. We formed over negative molds that was made of fiberglass and bodyfiller. They had interchangeable parts that would key in, like head rests, neck jets, or crotch jet.... 1 thing we did was 1/16 drill holes in the inside corners because the vacuum would struggle to pull detail as the air became locked in the voids of parts
If you have a DLP printer and print a cavity (negative) of the part you want you can get all the surface detail and use a thick 2mm material. I’ve used this process to model up injection formed plastic enclosures for tools and shells for products. Plaster casts of objects works too (how I learned in the 90’s) and the vaccume form can pick up leather texture and stone granular surfaces this way. The best part is any webs you get are all on the inside and you can get pulls that can go straight to paint with no sanding.
I got that 5" x 5" vacuum former for dentists that you mentioned a while back. I've been using the sides of gallon milk jugs to make reusable catfood can lids. Thanks for sharing even more knowledge.
Same with me, then I dialed it up to 11 and made my own 14" x 14" one. Such useful tools for makers.
Hey bro, you don’t have to be the top, the best, the end all be all. In fact the most helpful thing, and the most healthy thing, is to just show one way that works. You have great filming and editing skills, so you’ll make really helpful videos for entry level folks like me. If someone else has a way to improve on what you show, then great! I still want to see several people do it their way.
And the gusset problem, followed by the ring technique: great example of how imperfections make a fantastic, useful video!
Aaaaand the blister pack aspect was not obvious to me and it’s something I have been trying to fix! And now I have a solution.
Adam is the reason I built a vacuformer years ago. It’s 30” x 28” platten, de-icing heater elements, an old air compressor tank and a vacuum pump from a printing press. Works great.
Thank-you for sharing your knowledge! Every time I watch you using this vacuum former I think it would make it much easier to do solo with a foot pedal to turn on the vacuum.
I used to work for Lockheed Martin on the external tank for the Space Shuttle program. I got to do some vac-form work in the R&D department making test mock-ups. Most people didn't care for it. I thought it was fascinating!!
Back when the first LotR movie was going to be released I with some friends made a few orcs for a local convention contest. We spent 3 months with ABS sheets, a vacuum former and heat guns. We used bad pulls of C-3PO pieces to create 2 Moria orcs. We even hand cut and molded the helmets that took two days each. I love how quick yet easy to do with simple stuff. We had a 2'x2' table made out of 2x4"s and steel mesh, pulled with a restricted shopvac. We took first place in the contest and we got to meet Sean Austin in costume.
My first job was at a thermoform plastics company in Auburn WA. They had bottom and top platins. The bottom platin would push the buck up into the plastic and when needed the top platin would have the "helper" box that would come down as the bottom platin was coming up and would meet in the middle and completely eliminate gussets when dialed in. The smallest vac oven was 4'x5' and the largest was 6'x8'. They had a fireman's hat that you would sign when you f'd up the timing and had the whole sheet of plastic melt down into the lower heating elements that were covered with chicken wire to prevent direct melt down into the elements. It was fantastic job for a young maker. They let me go after I complained about bloodborn contaminant risk after a worker horribly cut himself bandsaw cutting uphill and got blood everywhere. Worst bandsaw injury I'd ever seen.
Mr Savage, I adore your work and want to thank you deeply for sharing your wisdom. The joy you show about your work is incredible. All the best for you and your loved ones.
What I love as some one who's tutored and taught and has ADHD.. is to watch Adam, bouncing around the topics like I do.. I've had some people go 'can you just focus on x'.. not realising that our brains are jumping to the tangents and we will cover everything.. just.. let us go.. you'll get more info than you ever imagined.. unless we have gone full ADHD and forget what we were meant to be doing.
Few also understand the full challenges of being a semi functional adult with ADHD.
There's another kind of 'helper' that is easy to make that you might like to know about: saw up some little wooden trapezoids (4 sided truncated pyramids) and position them near where you expect to get drooping folds. This will give the extra plastic something else to do, so to speak. I used to vacuform plastic hatch covers and other features for model boats and this trick gave us perfect parts every time. Never tried baby powder as a release; thanks for that! 🙂
As an orthopedics technician trainee: vacuum forming test sockets from 400x400x15 mm sheets of thermoplastics onto plaster positives is about 1/3 of what I do all day. It's always fascinating. Wonderful to see that basic technique being used for so many different things as well!
The Vac-U-Form machine was made by Ron Charles & Associates (RC Vac-U-Form) in Wilmette, Illinois (Chicago area), circa 1988 to 1991. I recently inherited the smallest sized machine from my old employer, a St. Louis area professional model shop that just closed. That machine was $450 new in January 1990. The 'Deluxe' model allowed for use of 9" x 12" sheet stock (8" x 11" usable space); the 'Deluxe XL' was made for 12" x 18" sheet stock (11" x 17" usable), and the 'Supra Deluxe' used 16" x 24" (15" x 23" usable). The 'Deluxe' model measured 24" tall, and the footprint was 13" x 10.5". It weighed about 35 pounds.
Another source from around the same time period was Lone Wolf Productions - I have an 12 x 9, and a 6 x 4 inch from them. They had a slightly better construction, with an integrated clamping system for the sheet, and variable temperature control, although I almost always form on full power.
I scored the 9x12 model on ebay many years ago, its very nice
One trick I've used is an alternate version of your helper. A bigger (not taller) ring around the buck under the plastic, so you pull over it. Really helps eliminate webbing.
I spent part of my youth as a sign builder,, we used to vacuum form giant sign faces that was quite an exercise!!
Giant face signs?! We’re in!
I encountered an opportunity to do packaging design for a new product. Knowing of Vacu-forming as a method but, not having enough experience with the methods I needed some good information. As always, Adam came through. In just a few moments of watching Adam, I have enough information to have a first go at prototype packaging for the project. I also learned I can build-out a vacu form rig for the prototype without having to buy a production machine. So WIN WIN! Thanks Adam. Keep up the good work!
As a part of my R/C hobby I paint and detail Lexan bodies for my cars and trucks. The interesting part is they are painted on the inside, so you have to reverse the process, doing the details first and the main body color last. One challenge is mixing the Acrylic lacquer paint because the factory automotive colors are based on Enamel and nothing matches easily! For example, '57 Chevy Turquoise has FIVE colors in it! I have an old Hot Rod magazine with paint dots all up and down the margins from mixing a batch for a '57 Chevy pickup I did as a "Cameo" (white top). One trick I discovered is to use a "Sharpie" marker to detail panel lines on the outside of the body. Make a mistake and a little rubbing alcohol takes it right off...
I worked (briefly) for a vacuum forming company years ago and we used 4x8 foot sheets of ABS and HDPE to make (among other things) golf cart bodies and school bus dashboards. BIG patterns and incredible details!
Currently an industrial design student and I use a vacuum former for a couple of models for my projects. such an amazing tool.
What you are calling a gusset is usually referred to as webbing. The "helper" is a great idea. I have also been told that if you get a lot of webbing that you can try heating the plastic less. I have heard both let the plastic sag the height of your buck and let the plastic sag half of the height of the buck. Professional machines have thermostats and temperature displays so the exact desired temperature for a specific buck can be dialed in.
When you mentioned kydex, that is used to make many different things, especially gun holsters, and some of the ways that is vac formed is just incredible, to include using a vacuum former that has a membrane so you can use smaller size sheets.
This video is very timely. I know you said this isn't a how to video, but this still very helpful to me. I recently start vac forming and learned a lot of useful tips for problem I've encountered. I've mostly been experimenting on stuff from around the house. Small bowls, lids, old phone cases, tent stakes (big mistake), and some small boxes. My favorite has been a tea infuser. A lot of gussets around that one. But now I know a couple of way to deal with those, thanks.
I love all the different names for moulds, bucks etc Ive always called those ‘gussets’ webbing 😀 Ive often used an off cut of wood to help push the plastic down to avoid them. Can sometimes use a sacrificial bit of wood next to where its forming to slow it down
Thanks for continuing to share “what happened” videos!
I LOVE THE IDEA OF "STEAM" !!! This has to be the standard!!!!!
Love seeing this. I work industrial maintenance for a manufacturing plant. We produce Togo boxes by thermo- vacuum forming. Seeing the large production at work all the way to this scale is truly unique.
As a kid I had gotten (I think it was Mattel) vacuum form machine. It took 4" x 4" sheets so you made about 1:87 scale boats & cars (all I can remember). Big machine, had a flipping sheet holder that sat over the heater, then you flipped the holder over the mold & pressed a built in hand pump to draw the soft plastic over the mold. Wish I had it now that I know how to do vacuum forming right. Would be making a lot of detail loads for my trains.
Still have mine. Had to keep the vacuum hand pump "lubed" with vasoline..
@@wmrg1057
When I signed up for the Navy. a lot of my stuff was "put away" for me.
This video brought back memories. When I was young, in the. 60's, I had a toy vacuformer. It took a 3 x 3 sheet of plastic. The heater was beside the vacuum plate, with a hinge. When the plastic was hot enough to sag, you flipped it over the form and pumped the vacuum manually as fast as you could.
Matel made a vacuform toy. Coveted by older airplane modelers. I made my own 4c4 and 5x5 ,I use a heat gun. Quick and dirty works great.
Suggestions... 1) Add a foot pedal to start the vacuum with maybe a latching relay/contactor to latch it on and a stop button on the cabinet. 2) Maybe something like a darkroom timer to monitor/control the heat up time. More useful for the thicker materials. Then you can keep notes on times for the various materials. I had instrument cases made from the thicker ABS type stuff and when you mentioned using very thin polystyrene the only thing I could think of were those cheap Halloween masks you wore as a kid.
Love this, Ive been wanting to build a vacuum former for ages. I think the foot pedal idea people have mentioned is a great one. I would also say move the clamp for the frame to another side so it not in your way when you pull the plastic down.
I loved this, more 'guide' like videos would be so amazing! I'd love to have a whole compendium of Adam teaching how he does things and all his tips and tricks within!
Thank you for this! I recently got my first vacuum form device, I'm making chocolate molds as my first run with it. I got lucky getting mine. The store my partner works at has a customer friend who regularly goes thrifting and found about ten small vacuum machines at a Re-Store, he bought them all and was selling them for $10.00 to makers who were interested.
Every time you mention vacuum forming, it brings back childhood memories. In the early 1960s, the kid next door had a vacuformer from Mattel.
Perfect time for this video , I was just messing around trying to vacuum form a blister pack for a custom figure I made. After a few fails i should be getting some more plastic today for attempt #2. Thanks for the tips
Adam, you should sign all of these test vacuum molds and sell them as limited edition art on your website. Thanks for sharing all of these great tips and tricks. Nicely done.
Fantastic video. I love learning and adding information to my potential builds.
please please make more videos like this!
As a Sign Fabricator for 40 years your explaination of the TESTD Brand was spot on. the way that I do may not be the best way. You half to find you Own. Human's
Fantastic video Thank you for sharing and can't wait to see what's next. Everyone keep yourselves and love ones safe and healthy and remember to SMILE 😊God Bless 🙏
I am so grateful for this ADHD teaching seminar. I bounced around a lot, actually.
I worked making visibility balls for power lines for a few years, brutal HOT work. ABS sheets go into oven the size of a car, while its warming up we hop in the form and wipe down the mold to keep it cool, jump out before the oven opens and plastic comes out, form comes together on the plastic vacuums engage, pull it out load another. easier than working at the woodmill throwing 2x4 and plywood all day
One detail that wasn't covered, that I have noticed doing vacuum forming, was the stages of how the plastic gets soft. First the plastic warps and softens unevenly. Then you'll see it smooth back out nearly to its original shape. This is the start when you can pull. Lastly, it starts to droop. For ABS and other thick materials, you might need to heat it till it starts smoking.
Another method of getting a clean edge on the base of the part is to raise it a bit off the vacuum plate then "ride" the vacuum so it doesn't undercut too much.
It's crazy the materials and the objects you can vacuum form. I once used 1/8" polycarbonate. We had to heat it up to a crazy amount which expanded the gas inside, creating a cool texter of air bubbles. We were pulling mushrooms for a tree for Meow Wolf, and we had to pull about 30 of them. Our vacuum form was a wreck after that. I've also vacuum formed piles of gold with seashells, skulls, crabs, and chains. Things that you would never vacuum form but if you do it right and a tiny bit of patchwork and a good paint job, it can turn out amazing.
I don't know if anyone has covered this but you mentioned especially on the small vacuum forming machines which I now own thanks to you, you can get polystyrene in colors if you want to use solo brand plastic dinner plates. They make them in red and blue for sure and I watched the demonstration of a solo plastic plate being vacuum formed. Obviously someone is making the product for solo.
Hey Adam, awesome guide! Some additional information about models, though. As an avid model builder NOT all models are PS! I have quite a few that are ABS. Definitely check what material the kit you're modifying is made with when you make your plan of attack. It's usually indicated somehow in the manual or on the runner itself.
Love the videos! Can’t wait to get to meet you at the Dallas ComicCon in two and a half weeks!
Maker expertise collision: A fellow maker and skilled saddler saw me vacuforming, and suggested I try a boning tool--like she uses for shaping wet leather over a buck--to reduce buttresses and improve detail. I substituted a tongue depressor first (since I had one on hand), but the boning tool is better because it has different contours you can use, and holds up better. Now one lives in a pocket on the side of my former. But you have to be quick!
For working with the black plastic, check out Welding Silver Pencils. They are a silver leaded pencil, great for laying lines on dark surfaces.
We used to form with ABS and HIPS and we found that hips would sag, tighten then sag a second time. The second sag was the golden spot. Our vacuum former was an oven and a mdf side dresser with a hole drilled in it and an old vacuum cleaner fitted in it. We used off cut tiles to raise the form off the dresser as to not plug over the vacuum hole. Was still an effective vacuum former though
Oh hey! I was wishing for this during the Homeworld build and here it is! This is awesome!
Ha! Back in the day in printing if our powder sprayer was down we would put powder in a couple of shop rags and rubber band them for the same purpose! For anyone interested; offset printing presses have a air powder sprayer that sprays just a little bit of powder on top of each sheet in the delivery stack for coated paper to keep the wet ink from offsetting onto the back of the next sheet…. We only used it for coated stock like Gloss and Matte
I worked in the dental industry for years and we used vacuum forming all the time. There's lots of different materials you can use if you look into it. Also they use smaller form factor vacuum machines in dental that you can find secondhand every once in a while for cheap.
now that I've been working at a horse farm, 'mucking it up' has a deeper meaning; great exercise tossing 30 gal muck tubs though!
p.s. I'd Red Green the cart with some brackets; 'it's only temporary unless it works!' I think is the saying? :)
Adam has such a beautiful personality it brightens up rough times.
'Pounce bag' is used also in both handwriting in ink and also musical instrument finishing.
They're also used in sewing.
Dude! We would all love to learn anything you’re willing to share. No one is the end-all be-all experts on a subject s, there always something else to learn.
You'd be surprised how few people think this way. Some people have a very fixed mindset.
A vacuum former is on my list of things I need to build myself. It would be great to make a nice body for radio control vehicles and be able to easily just make a fresh one when it gets too beat up.
You were definately in the zone there!! nice video
Awesome!
I'm always tempted to get one for stuff like aircraft canopies.
they way i see it, Adam is more of a town at a crossroad, pulling things in from different places and exposing many things that i would not have found on my own
An excellent 'show & tell' about vaccu-forming...or, to borrow a phrase from Star Talk, an excellent 'Explainer'. 👍🏻
In high school the plastic shop I worked in we used two pizza ovens and machined presses. We did also use foot pedals for the vacuum, I remember when we went to the foot pedals it was so much easier heh.
Loved this, would love to see you do more of these "guides" for other bigger tools
I made blisters for a small product with A4 clear PVC sheets... works, it was the stuff I had laying around... you really need to ventilate well there.
Great video Adam .
My heart jumped when you almost dropped the blaster😮
Brings back memories of Vac-Man, Creepy-Crawlies and the Easy-Bake-Oven (For kids) Along with erector set and chemistry sets and that thing from Radio Shack when you connect wires it does things.
Considered putting a touch switch on the edge of the base to automatically turn on the vacuum when the plastic is brought down? If the existing vacuum switch is kept in the switch circuit it could allow for manual and automatic modes of turning on vacuum.
Interstate Plastics up in Sacramento sells .040 white styrene - I just bought a couple of 4 X 8' sheets last week for my vacuum form, and they were about 20 bucks a sheet. Cut them up myself, but they offer cutting and shipping services.
Vacuum forming and learn by mistake; I won't forget (probably ever) ruining piece of perfectly good polycarbonate sheet for making a mock-up of a food container back in UAS studying industrial design. Weell.. ruining is one way to describe it - turning it into art is another. :P
It was left-over piece that had been sitting on shelf for years so it should had been put into oven over night to dissipate/draw moisture out of it. I however didn't know that at the time, all I knew was that "oh, that's perfect size for my lid" and vacuum formed it as is. It does its job as the lid, sure, but it's also very artistic with millions tiny bubbles that popped up when the sheet was heated up. You know.. invisible water "droplets" that are sucked into plastic in improper storage put under 500+ celsius heating coil for ~30 seconds => very *artistic* gas expansion.
All I can say 8 years later is that it was very good demonstration of how plastic really grabs moisture from air in storage - and how happy I am that the piece actually was mostly a scrap piece because how expensive 2mm clear polycarbonate sheet is - got a bit chewed from our teacher for wasting it but overall turned into a learning experience so hey..
Of the two plastic pieces you show at 3:47, the cone shaped one is from a Kenner b-wing. It's the rear part of the cockpit, if I'm right.
Just to add, I love this video, and it is timely, since I just built my own vacuum former because the Kenner b-wing I have is missing it's canopy. I plan to shape one out of PETG.
Adam my mom makes sugar flowers as a hobby and a number of years ago she bought herself a Wilton Cornstarch Duster. It does exactly what your bandana hack does and comes in its own self-contained container.
I know those parts! That's vintage 80s Kenner B-Wing cockpit shell and AT-ST bottom body/neck shell!
Past views days I have been making my diy vacuum table - perfect timing on watching something on the same subject.
"God of acedem", I learn so much new english from this channel..
For a number of years I worked with a fluid cell press in making aircraft skins and parts. Though that is obviously a little more complicated than vacuum forming, the concept and process is identical.. Good job here and good tips as well. :)
you had my heart skip a beat seeing the blaster fall then you caught it 😤
Great video Adam sir 😊
I can just barely remember, when I was a kid, 60+ yrs ago, there was a vacuum forming toy by Mattel(?). Turn it on, set a plastic blank over the form, turn it n, you could made part to build an army jeep, I think. Wanted one desperately.
I like these types of videos.
I've never even been interested in vacuum forming an I find this super interesting, it looks so much simpler than I expected.
I understand using thinner sheets makes it a lot easier to get good looking fine details, but what's the downside? If I had to guess, it makes the plastic tear more easily if you pull it down too hard over a sharp shape?
One of my goals in life is to have a shop like Adam’s
You know how FUN it would be to have Adam as a shop class teacher in High School!... I wouldn't ever wanna leave that class haha. Feel like every student would graduate as masters of that art after only taking his class for a year
I added a magnet to my plastic frame and a reed switch to the vac-u-form machine so as soon as the frame is pulled down the heat turns off and the vacuum turns on as soon as the magnet is in place.
Excellent tutorial
I would love to see a video showing various ways of which the vacuum formed pieces are used. I always see videos of how to form, but never this is how we used the piece in our project.
Excellent video, thank you for charing💯
Oh yea, and Have that exact little mini vacuum former. Great little machine
I haven't made vacuformer yet, I have had a novel idea though you would be able to try if you wanted, if you have a 3d printed tuned well you can create flat sheets with no top layer, and 100% infill, just a few layers thick, it gives a really interesting sci-fi armor texture and reflects light in really interesting ways, its occured to me that armor pieces could be printed out flat and then lightly vacuformed into shape, hopefully still retaining that unique texture.
As a child I had a Willie Wonka Chocolate Factory chocolate bar making kit. It had vacuum formed chocolate molds to make the bars, along with preprinted Wonka wrappers.
In addition to the normal on/off switch it has a foot switch for the vacuum seems like a decent idea for that process, or perhaps switch that's triggered by the frame when it's placed in it's ready to vacuum position.
In the Netherlands, we always talk about Polystyrene as the thermoplastic, Styrene is the rude liquid of which Polystyrene is made...