Broken tap is my nightmare... nice video. It is always a fight. I 've never seen such drill bit. In any case, i learned something valuable here, thanks for sharing the skills.
Hello Steve, I am so pleased you fixed the pallet and to be honest it's about time, I have hardly slept since you broke the tap off on the original build... Maybe I'll have a good nights sleep tonight - lol. Seriously though top tip on the omega drill, I have just checked and we can get them in the UK which is good to know. Take care. Paul,,
LOL, sorry for the loss of sleep. The pallet functioned just fine with the broken tap in it but it was like third eye staring at me every time I used it. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Hello Steve, good informative video. I think I have one of those drills, that I inherited from my dad some 40 years ago. He claimed it could drill through a file, but that it would get red hot. Interesting grind, as mine just had a 3 sided pyramid form on the end. I will do a little research on your leads, again thanks, enjoyed and as always, cheers!
I had purchased a carbide drill similar to this 40 years ago to try and drill a tap. It blew apart as soon as I touched the tap. Although this drill was similar it was a lot tougher and had that diamond grind. It worked well. Thanks for watching and commenting.
i think what you have got is a stellite drill we used them 50 years ago to drll hardened steel. .. its run at high speed and feed and the shaving comes of red hot..
Sweet,,, oh yes, I need more of this Steve. Broken taps make me 🤪 I remember when I built Volkswagen engines. We used a butt load of these Steve. Some people would over tighten those head bolts and wonder why they start popping on a cylinder or two. Enjoyed watching 👍
Super video, Steve! Was wondering how those Omega Drills worked - now I know. Just had a broken tap saga, and got it out by grinding a screwdriver slot with a diamond burr (lots of work though).
There was not turning this tap out. It went in crooked and shattered inside the material. I was pleasantly surprised how well the drill worked. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Tip for next time, take the remains of the tap, and run a correct size nut on it. Then take an old windscreen wiper blade and get those stainless steel stiffeners from next to the blade, and slip through the gap in the tap, to make a quick extractor. If the tap will turn, you can grind that thin strip to make it fit the gap in the tap side, and turn it out that way. Done that a few times, cheap Chinese taps that shatter like glass.
Glad you like them! I will be trying to add some more. More often than not I just fix the problem I do not shoot any video. Thanks for watching and commenting.
I purchased one many years ago when I still had my automotive machine shop. Removing broken bolts was something that we did every day and that included removing broken drills and EZ outs after the customer failed trying it themselves. The first time that I tried to use it, it shattered. I do believe that the carbide tooling that is made today is far superior to the older material. By older I am referring to before 95'. Thank you for watching and commenting.
M6 and M8 were the first helicoil kits I bought, and a few dozen holes later they are still around. Since then gotten them as either the tap and inserts only, or the whole kit. Hardest to get are the US sizes, as the only ones I bought were stock from the 1970's, which were insanely cheap, having sat on a shelf for a half century without moving, and which were all reduced to clear. Inserts for them will be a problem as well, when the dozen or so per kit are used, but I rarely deal with US pitch threads, so not too much of a worry. Currently can handle all common sizes from M4 to M16, though there are gaps, as I did not need those sizes ever. Most commonly used is M6 and M8, especially in aluminium, as those will be the first to wear out the holes, though I have done a few on engine blocks as well where the fastener stripped out the cast steel, probably due to the original casting being poor, or the bolt being installed by the Hulk. Also have a few broken tap extractors, the do sort of work to get a tap that has snapped, but not totally bound, out of the hole, but yes often you will have to break the tap into pieces to get it out, and fix the hole up as best as you can. Some went to a helicoil, come went to drill and tap the next size up.
I had an automotive machine shop until 1995 and we used Helicoils almost everyday to repair customers attempts to remove broken bolts on their own. I have metric sizes 8m thru 18m which is a spark plugs size. But of course when you are working on a project you never have the correct size when you need it LOL. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Guess they don’t always spin right out like when Adam does it. Lol I have good luck with regular carbide cutting most taps but busted ones can be nasty. Glad you were able to save your plate.
When did helicoil dream up a new installer? The internal portion of the installer appears to have stayed the same? I prefer solid thread inserts so I rarely use helicoils.
Those installers have been around for many years, but only for the small sizes under 1/4". I use solid inserts also but I prefer the Helicoils because they are smaller in diameter. We used to install a full set of coils for the head bolts in aluminum cylinder blocks. Thanks for stopping by.
So your done with steam engines. I do have one to build but no idea when. I have so many other projects that I want to do. Not sure of the order in which I will be posing the videos but I am starting a tool build for my lathe. Thanks for watching and commenting.
@@sharkrivermachine Steve, I enjoy your practical fixes/repairs to the steam engine. I'd also like to see you build the one you have, but I understand waiting for a while and spreading things out too for those who don't enjoy them. I guess you need to be interested in "model engineering" to watch that type of video, especially for those who don't realize the tips & tricks they'll see that apply to other projects, not just "model engineering." I read Home Shop Machinist and Machinist's Workshop which have lots of gunsmithing articles, which I read carefully, even though I doubt I'll ever need to perform gunsmithing in my shop -- the articles include techniques that apply to all kind of machine shop projects, not just gunsmithing. Of course, I plan to build a black powder rifle before I check out, so I plan at least one gunsmithing project! ;)
I enjoy most aspects of machining. I do plan to finish building a steam engine kit that I started years ago. I hope to get the S50 steam engine running soon. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Ironic I had the same issue when I made my pallet. I had one hole that was giving me a fit. I broke a tap in mine too. Almost like there was a hard area in that spot.
I was not happy when I did it. The worst thing about is that I knew that I was be very risky with it. I just got a little to bold. Thanks for stopping by.
Never seen a drill bit like that. The times I've broken taps it's involved some quality time with a Dremel and diamond bit . . . and yes, I agree that name brand Heli-Coil kits are generally overpriced, I go with the generic ones as a general rule.
I was shocked at the price and they are not US made any more! It looked to eBay and almost purchased the off brand when I found this kit at a good price. Thanks for watching.
Steve, here's my vote for more "shop tips" like this one! I thought that I wanted to keep a selection of the Omegadrills on-hand, just in case, but they certainly don't give them away. I'll order them as I need them though. And keep diamond burrs available for my Dremel tool too. Are your diamond burrs the ones made out of Chinesium or are they from elsewhere? Mine are Chinese, but I've never ground hardened material like taps, so I don't know whether mine would be successful.
The diamond burrs were cheap Chinese pieces and they did not last long. Fortunately there were several of the same size. The drills are pricey for sure. I purchased one to try it out and was happy that it did not blow up. Thanks for watching and commenting.
I considered that but did not have the tooling to cut it out without making a mess. This work really well and I am happy with the result. Thanks for watching and commenting.
I am familiar with the process. When I had the automotive machine shop we had a bit that we could drill down around a head bolt that was seized in an aluminum head.
@@sharkrivermachine just despise metric, always complicates things that shouldn't be difficult, esp buying tools, never is correctly sized! No offense to you what so ever, snapped plenty standard taps, is usually the gorilla with the cheaterbar 😆 that causes that pop and plenty of cussing 😉
Broken tap is my nightmare... nice video. It is always a fight. I 've never seen such drill bit. In any case, i learned something valuable here, thanks for sharing the skills.
Thanks for watching! For larger size taps I have been successful using a cutting torch to blow them out. That was not an option for this little tap.
Hello Steve,
I am so pleased you fixed the pallet and to be honest it's about time, I have hardly slept since you broke the tap off on the original build... Maybe I'll have a good nights sleep tonight - lol.
Seriously though top tip on the omega drill, I have just checked and we can get them in the UK which is good to know.
Take care.
Paul,,
LOL, sorry for the loss of sleep. The pallet functioned just fine with the broken tap in it but it was like third eye staring at me every time I used it. Thanks for watching and commenting.
This is a very interesting approach.Thank you Steve.
Glad you liked it! Thanks for watching and commenting.
Great video there Steven. A mini palette is a nice hold down tool.
It sure is! I have used it several time and it worked out great. Thanks for stopping by.
Hello Steve, good informative video. I think I have one of those drills, that I inherited from my dad some 40 years ago. He claimed it could drill through a file, but that it would get red hot. Interesting grind, as mine just had a 3 sided pyramid form on the end. I will do a little research on your leads, again thanks, enjoyed and as always, cheers!
I had purchased a carbide drill similar to this 40 years ago to try and drill a tap. It blew apart as soon as I touched the tap. Although this drill was similar it was a lot tougher and had that diamond grind. It worked well. Thanks for watching and commenting.
i think what you have got is a stellite drill we used them 50 years ago to drll hardened steel. .. its run at high speed and feed and the shaving comes of red hot..
Nice work Steve. Great save. Thank you for sharing.
Thank you for watching and commenting.
Yes yes, more of that please! I have used the coil and the extra heavy duty Hercules repair sleeve. Love the bit you used. Thanks for sharing!
More to come! Thanks for watching and commenting.
Sweet,,, oh yes, I need more of this Steve. Broken taps make me 🤪 I remember when I built Volkswagen engines. We used a butt load of these Steve. Some people would over tighten those head bolts and wonder why they start popping on a cylinder or two. Enjoyed watching 👍
I Helicoiled a lot of VW blocks and heads. The exhaust studs broke off in the heads all of the time. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Super video, Steve! Was wondering how those Omega Drills worked - now I know. Just had a broken tap saga, and got it out by grinding a screwdriver slot with a diamond burr (lots of work though).
There was not turning this tap out. It went in crooked and shattered inside the material. I was pleasantly surprised how well the drill worked. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Tip for next time, take the remains of the tap, and run a correct size nut on it. Then take an old windscreen wiper blade and get those stainless steel stiffeners from next to the blade, and slip through the gap in the tap, to make a quick extractor. If the tap will turn, you can grind that thin strip to make it fit the gap in the tap side, and turn it out that way. Done that a few times, cheap Chinese taps that shatter like glass.
I have a full set of tap extractors but this tab actually shattered in the block so I could not get an extractor in. Thanks for the suggestion.
I love the shop tricks Videos, great content. Thanks.
Glad you like them! I will be trying to add some more. More often than not I just fix the problem I do not shoot any video. Thanks for watching and commenting.
I have been using single flute carbide drills for years to remove hardened screws from rifles and pistols and heads of engines.
I purchased one many years ago when I still had my automotive machine shop. Removing broken bolts was something that we did every day and that included removing broken drills and EZ outs after the customer failed trying it themselves. The first time that I tried to use it, it shattered. I do believe that the carbide tooling that is made today is far superior to the older material. By older I am referring to before 95'. Thank you for watching and commenting.
well done steve! enjoyed
Ok, its your turn to post a video. Thanks for stopping by.
nice job Steve
Thanks for watching and commenting.
M6 and M8 were the first helicoil kits I bought, and a few dozen holes later they are still around. Since then gotten them as either the tap and inserts only, or the whole kit. Hardest to get are the US sizes, as the only ones I bought were stock from the 1970's, which were insanely cheap, having sat on a shelf for a half century without moving, and which were all reduced to clear. Inserts for them will be a problem as well, when the dozen or so per kit are used, but I rarely deal with US pitch threads, so not too much of a worry.
Currently can handle all common sizes from M4 to M16, though there are gaps, as I did not need those sizes ever. Most commonly used is M6 and M8, especially in aluminium, as those will be the first to wear out the holes, though I have done a few on engine blocks as well where the fastener stripped out the cast steel, probably due to the original casting being poor, or the bolt being installed by the Hulk.
Also have a few broken tap extractors, the do sort of work to get a tap that has snapped, but not totally bound, out of the hole, but yes often you will have to break the tap into pieces to get it out, and fix the hole up as best as you can. Some went to a helicoil, come went to drill and tap the next size up.
I had an automotive machine shop until 1995 and we used Helicoils almost everyday to repair customers attempts to remove broken bolts on their own. I have metric sizes 8m thru 18m which is a spark plugs size. But of course when you are working on a project you never have the correct size when you need it LOL. Thanks for watching and commenting.
I like this video but I must tell you I liked last week’s opening
I try and change up the format to keep t interesting. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Nice getter out video Steve. Love the Helicoils, Gary
When I had the automotive machine shop Helicoils were a daily job. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Guess they don’t always spin right out like when Adam does it. Lol I have good luck with regular carbide cutting most taps but busted ones can be nasty. Glad you were able to save your plate.
I have not had good luck using carbide endmills. This drill was a game changer. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Thanks Steven
Thanks for watching and commenting.
Yep watch it again.
Thanks for watching.
When did helicoil dream up a new installer? The internal portion of the installer appears to have stayed the same? I prefer solid thread inserts so I rarely use helicoils.
Those installers have been around for many years, but only for the small sizes under 1/4". I use solid inserts also but I prefer the Helicoils because they are smaller in diameter. We used to install a full set of coils for the head bolts in aluminum cylinder blocks. Thanks for stopping by.
I make my own inserts.Larger fine thread bolt,drill and tap to the size you need,install with locktite and,cut it off. I never use Helicoils.
I like projects where you make something. Not steam engines. Good video.
So your done with steam engines. I do have one to build but no idea when. I have so many other projects that I want to do. Not sure of the order in which I will be posing the videos but I am starting a tool build for my lathe. Thanks for watching and commenting.
@@sharkrivermachine Steve, I enjoy your practical fixes/repairs to the steam engine. I'd also like to see you build the one you have, but I understand waiting for a while and spreading things out too for those who don't enjoy them. I guess you need to be interested in "model engineering" to watch that type of video, especially for those who don't realize the tips & tricks they'll see that apply to other projects, not just "model engineering." I read Home Shop Machinist and Machinist's Workshop which have lots of gunsmithing articles, which I read carefully, even though I doubt I'll ever need to perform gunsmithing in my shop -- the articles include techniques that apply to all kind of machine shop projects, not just gunsmithing. Of course, I plan to build a black powder rifle before I check out, so I plan at least one gunsmithing project! ;)
I enjoy most aspects of machining. I do plan to finish building a steam engine kit that I started years ago. I hope to get the S50 steam engine running soon. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Ironic I had the same issue when I made my pallet. I had one hole that was giving me a fit. I broke a tap in mine too. Almost like there was a hard area in that spot.
I did this by starting the tap crooked. Thanks for watching and commenting.
A broken tap can ruin your day. Luckily you were able to fix it.
I was not happy when I did it. The worst thing about is that I knew that I was be very risky with it. I just got a little to bold. Thanks for stopping by.
Never seen a drill bit like that. The times I've broken taps it's involved some quality time with a Dremel and diamond bit . . . and yes, I agree that name brand Heli-Coil kits are generally overpriced, I go with the generic ones as a general rule.
I was shocked at the price and they are not US made any more! It looked to eBay and almost purchased the off brand when I found this kit at a good price. Thanks for watching.
Steve, here's my vote for more "shop tips" like this one! I thought that I wanted to keep a selection of the Omegadrills on-hand, just in case, but they certainly don't give them away. I'll order them as I need them though. And keep diamond burrs available for my Dremel tool too. Are your diamond burrs the ones made out of Chinesium or are they from elsewhere? Mine are Chinese, but I've never ground hardened material like taps, so I don't know whether mine would be successful.
The diamond burrs were cheap Chinese pieces and they did not last long. Fortunately there were several of the same size. The drills are pricey for sure. I purchased one to try it out and was happy that it did not blow up. Thanks for watching and commenting.
I would have cored it out and let a piece of ally bar in the hole and re tapped the new piece
I considered that but did not have the tooling to cut it out without making a mess. This work really well and I am happy with the result. Thanks for watching and commenting.
A bit from a mag drill !! you lads across the pond need to think out the box
stay safe
I am familiar with the process. When I had the automotive machine shop we had a bit that we could drill down around a head bolt that was seized in an aluminum head.
Metric 🤔😆
I have a lifetime supply of 6m socket head cap screws so I use them whenever I can. I can speak metric LOL. Thanks for watching and commenting.
@@sharkrivermachine just despise metric, always complicates things that shouldn't be difficult, esp buying tools, never is correctly sized! No offense to you what so ever, snapped plenty standard taps, is usually the gorilla with the cheaterbar 😆 that causes that pop and plenty of cussing 😉
Metric is a fact of life, like it or not I come out of the automotive industry and we had to deal with both systems starting in the 70's.
@@sharkrivermachine same here on working on vehicles