Lexus GS300 (2002) Catalytic Converter and Exhaust Manifold Replacement
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- Опубліковано 19 сер 2024
- Error codes P0420 and P0430 suggest the catalytic converter is going bad. In states like Texas that use the vehicle computer error codes for emissions testing, a vehicle presenting these codes with a check engine light (MIL) are sure to fail. This is an expensive repair for a Lexus, so it is definitely cheaper to do it yourself. This videos shows how to replace the entire exhaust manifold with the catalytic converters.
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this is one of the best diy step by step tutorials i've seen on UA-cam. Thank you good sir!
Thank you for the kind words!
This guy has it down cold, no BS, every bit is helpful.
Yes sir good job. This will help me out a lot.
I like your style of working sir, its neat and clean . Your not rough and throwing parts around. I enjoyed watching your video. Please keep up the good work
One of the best DIY videos I have ever seen! Great job!
Common problem with these cars but they run forever 💯💯
Going through this exact same thing, hence why I'm here.
Thanks man, this is a HuGE help for me. Much appreciate the breakdown!
Awesome job, smart, easy to follow, just the needed info and helpful tips.
You are the man!
According to eastern and walker, you do not need the heatshields because the replacement converter is smaller in diameter than the factory once...…….great video.....thanks
Thanks for pointing that out Sam. That's a great point as making the heat shield fit is the hardest part of the job. I like having them on there just to keep the heat off the starter and some of the nearby wires, but it's nice to know that the pipes can be installed without the shields: the job is much easier that way.
Hey Sam, can you post a link to this statement? I hope this is true so I can leave the heat shields alone if I can't manage to transfer them
@@IS3000vato According to eastern and walker, you do not need the heatshields because the replacement converter is smaller in diameter than the factory once...…….great video.....thanks
@@JohnPColbert According to eastern and walker, you do not need the heatshields because the replacement converter is smaller in diameter than the factory once...…….great video.....thanks
Nicely done. I was able to follow and change out my Cat with your video.
That's fantastic. Thanks for sharing.
Did a price check with a Lexus dealer and found that the online price for a replacement exhaust manifold was over $3,800. Tack on labor and this is one expensive problem. It is certainly cheaper to have a muffler shop weld in new cats or swap in an aftermarket unit like I did here.
Come help me with mine . It's been having the same problem . It sucks man :/
Yep. What really sucks is how clean the Cats were. No noticeable clogs. There was a slight buildup on the screens but you could run your finger along the inside of the header tubes and it would come out clean. I cut the cats out to get a close look at them and they were in pretty good shape. It's surprising that they were becoming ineffective. The repair did the job though, the car still runs great and no check engine light.
+JC's_DIY lucky you ! I'm stranded at the moment and my car Lexus Is over heating
Sorry to hear that! Sounds like your thermostat needs replaced. Hopefully it is not something else.
+JC's_DIY change it and does the same problem , does it mean that was it for that motor and it need to be replaced?
thanks for such a instructional video, just purchased my first vehicle witch happens to be a 02 gs300 and it had the 430 code with conditional pass so il have to do the same thing here, for sure much much cheaper in the end,
awesome vid very helpful i drive a 2000 gs400 with same issue, plan on replacing soon just reached 250,000 miles still going
Ras JrStrength Good luck with your repair. Hope it goes smoothly and corrects the problem.
Thanks!! Its rare to find gs400 vids on UA-cam unless its a gs300 series or the Toyota version, i appreciate the vid 100%
Thank you my man! I’m doing this tomorrow and this definitely is going to save me some time!
I cut the old ones out and fab in universal magna flow HM cats. Takes a lil bit but works every time. Love it when these come through my doors. Nice clip.
That's a great solution. Having the cats welded into the manifold makes replacing them a difficult job. Although, the cost savings of fabbing in a couple of universal cats makes the extra effort worthwhile.
Very detailed thanks but I got a $5 fix for this issue. Just install O2 sensor spacer/defouler. Works 99% of time to pass emissions
yeah but these cars need cats replaced after a lot of miles, even with no code they start smelling like rotten eggs and can restrict the engine
my spacer didn't do shit lol
I neglected mine and now I may need the cat replaced good thing u got urs fixed in time
Very helpful but I had to shift the engine a bit on the Is300 to get the old one out and the new one in. Used the rolling jack with a block of wood on the oil pan.
Thanks So Much for all the explanations, they are so usefull
Thank you so much master 👍
This is super easy compared to most cars wow
AWESOME. I'm about to do this on my 2004. I wish however that you hadn't skipped too much on the heat shield transfer. I'm hoping it won't be too difficult to do it. If anyone has a good video to figure out how to do it step by step, that'd be great
Will this work for a 2003 Lexus gs 300 ?
1999 Lexus G300 with over 300k miles. Noticing power lost on performance and it fails smog test. How reliable are the aftermarket catalytic converters? OEM are impossible to find and some are charging like 8,000$ on Offerup. Thanks for sharing the Gospel!
you the goat
if anyone wants a work around to getting a new cat, take the cats out, if theyre clogged, drill bit the inside out (technically catless now), then get o2 sensor extensions and u should be good.
Dammm you did a great job. I have a black 2002 GS 300 I’ll pay you to fix mines let me know if you up for it you can shoot it for one of your videos
You are so good.. I'm frustrated with my 2004 Lexus GS. Everything we try we can't get the. Check engine light off. It keep failing emissions we replaced what the code said was wrong still the light keeps coming on. We payed 1500+ dollars already trying to fix this car. Ugggg🤦🏾 this is my third Lexus I love them but I'm so frustrated.. All the mechanics we take her to said there is nothing else wrong. They refuse to charge us.. Anyone have a clue as to what might be going on?
Perhaps you could share the trouble codes you are getting. Also, be sure to check the intake resonator, it is easily overlooked by mechanics. It is the part of the intake tube that sits between the Mass Airflow Sensor and the Throttle body. It's black plastic, boxy, has a slight S curve, and has a metal heat shield on the bottom as it sits directly over the exhaust manifold. These resonators a notorious for cracking, and letting in air after the MAF, which throws off the whole system. The resonator is very easy to remove, but be sure to actually remove it, because the cracks, even when they are large, are hard to see. This problems can cause misfires, damage to your cats, and emissions trouble codes, so it would be good to give it a check.
Great video !!!
Thanks!
I'm having no power issues when I drive my 03 Lex IS300 but I am getting the P0430 code. But I'm also getting the VSC and Trac Off light as well.
Trac light is a combo of things. I have the same thing now. Most likely its the O2 sensors bank 1 and 2 upstream. Go that route first if doesn't fix replace your vvti solenoid
I'm getting the same issue: have you found how fix I tryed everything can't afford to take too shop.
JC's_DIY
Thank you
*You missed putting the anti ceasing goo on the o2 sensors* 😨
What was the initial bolt measurement? Under the car exhaust.?
Can i change the manifold gasket without removing the whole unit
nice job
At 1:12 when you start working on three bolts, what do you do if the bolts have oxidation and are ceased and corroded with rust??? Is there any easy way on removing???I'm thinking about hitting them with a welder 👨🏭 and heat em up a little and maybe that will do trick, any insight on this if possible, is appreciated.
Yeah. That's always a fun problem. I first try soaking them overnight with Blaster PB or some other penetrating catalyst, and then work them back and forth until they give way. It that doesn't work, I will hit them with some heat from a handheld torch. If you are talking about the lower bolts, they can be easily replaced if you snap one. My exhaust kit came with new bolts, so I replaced them anyway. I hope you have solved this already.
I live in Ny soni need a carb compliant but my question is you noticed any metal shavings inside the runner. I see this videos 4 years old but if you could answer I'd appreciate it.
what size bolt metric socket you used under the car
I believe it was a 15mm or 17mm, if memory serves correctly.
There’s a rear exhaust CAT on these cars too, does that have to be replaced too?
Hi Mark. If the front cats broke apart, then the cat material will clog up that rear cat. That can cause a significant reduction in performance. If you're just dealing with the trouble codes and the front cats look fine, then you don't have to change out the rear cat. If cat material is breaking apart, you will hear it rattling when you shake the pipe (off the car of course) and you may even be able to shake some material out of the pipe. In that case, it would be wise to replace the rear cat. The O2 sensors that are reporting the trouble codes are placed in front of the rear cat, so that cat converter has no bearing on the 0420 trouble code. I hope that helps.
I was not familiar with the Lexus and that totally makes sense and answers my question. Thank you so much for your insight with dealing with these cars.
@@ImpalaSS08 No worries. Glad I could help. I hope your repair goes perfectly. Remember to check the resonator box for cracks. That may be what lead up to the cat failure.
Will do. Thanks again.
Hey JC, this is JC. I am also in TX and have a 2004 IS300(inspection due soon---just as yours was) and purchased the same exhaust manifold. Your video is an extreme help. The one problem I encountered was just trying to loosen the bolts underneath. My guess is because of time, heat, elements its caused the bolts to rust and weld themselves together a little bit. I'll re-attempt, but do you know of anything that may be better than WD-40? Also, do you have more detail to show where you had to do the minor fabrication work to get the heat shields to fit?
Hey JC.
Sorry to here you are having this issue: what a pain. My reply may be a bit late to be helpful, but I'll try to help anyway. I use "PB penetrating catalyst" on rusty bolts, which is what I used on this project. With respect to the fabrication, I forgot to hit record on the camera so I didn't capture the part where I adjusted the heat shields to fit. Here are the nuts and bolts of it though: I identified the areas on the heat shields that would rub against the exhaust tubes and took care of those trouble spots with a 4" grinder or cut-off wheel. I also found a weld on the new manifold that was sticking out too far to allow one of the heat shields to close all the way. That weld seemed anomalous. I ground the excess weld material down to allow clearance. In sum, I ended up cutting off a small piece at one end of a heat shield, ground away some metal from another that fit right in between the two pipes, and ground down a weld that was sticking up too high.
Good luck with your project!!
Enjoyed your video, very thorough. One of the comments mentioned using a muffler shop to cut out the old converter and weld in a new one. Will that work? I'm looking for the cheapest option given the age of my car and an upcoming emissions test. Thanks for any guidance you can provide.
Yes. That will work. Not sure if you can get that done for less cost then replacing them as shown here, but you can see what I paid; so, use that info and see if you can get new cats welded in for less.
Im not very mechanically inclined so I was wondering if a rookie could do this? I have codes po420.po430 and po441. Bought the car for 1400 knew I would have 2 do some work on it. So I'm thinking that I should try doing his myself instead of taking it 2 a mechanic and having him charge me an arm and a leg.
Well, that's a tough question to answer, but what I would say is that if you are willing to give it a go, I think you can do it. The only challenging part of this was switching out the heat shields, but that is not required. Just make sure you have a foot-pounds torque wrench so you can properly torque the exhaust manifold bolts. Also, just be sure that you really support the car well before you climb underneath. If you don't have jack stands, maybe get some of those ramp things that you drive onto. On the other hand, if you choose a local mechanic, having them swap the manifolds would not cost too much, if you source the manifold yourself. Whichever route you choose, I wish you the best.
Hey bud! Great video! By any chance did you have to do anything specifically to get the new one to fit? I’ve gotten the old one out but seem to be having issues putting the new one in. (Own replacement)
Hi Niko, I missed this comment but still wanted to reply. I'm sure you have this sorted out already. I did not have any fitment problems with respect to the manifold lining up with the head and the exhaust pipe. I transferred the heat shields over, which wasn't easy because the new manifold wasn't designed for those heat shields, but the adjustments were to the heat shields and not to the new manifold.
Hi i have a 99 lexus es300 how many caddlic converter do i have on my car please help
Jamaica bre 3
Did you happen to notice your gas mileage slowly diminishing? I have an LS430 with 210k I've lost 1.1 average MPG according to onboard computer and was assuming its the cats going. Changed oil, aired up tires, am changing air filter as I write this, assuming if that doesn't bring my mileage back up it must be the cats
I wasn't tracking my MPG to that extent so I can't associate my repairs to MPG. I would be curious, though, as to whether your loss in MPG stems from a normal wearing of the piston rings resulting in a slight loss of compression. That slight loss in power would cause a reduction in MPG. The Lexus computers are pretty sensitive to changes in Cat performance, as I found out, as they will throw the check engine light in a hot second if the Cats are going bad. I cut my Cats open and could not see any build up on the screens. I'm not sure if I would point to the Cats as the cause of your issue quite yet. You may consider cleaning your injectors and changing plugs / wires if that hasn't been done in a while. A small change in average MPG is going to be hard to track down because of the time and variable conditions involved in getting another sample. Also, as your car is getting up there in mileage, there could be multiple factors contributing simultaneously to the loss in MPG, such as rings, valves, injectors, plugs, wires, drivetrain, cats, AC compressor, water pump, alternator, pulleys, and anything else that could, through wear, cause a bit of drag on the engine. If it is one source, I hope you find it and solve the problem.
Check for any exhaust leaks especially at the cat it self the gaskets tend to go. That was the case on our LS430 the catalytic converter was fine it had a leak at the flange where it bolts to the pipe.
How many miles did the car have when the cat went bad?
Max, my car had somewhere around 120-130K miles on it. I was actually surprised that the cats went bad with so few miles. I am the original owner and this is a extra car for us, so it has not accumulated many miles over the years. I thought that the problem might have been something else, like air leaking through a gasket, but after many checks the only remaining possibility was the cat converters. We have taken the car on some long trips since the repair, adding another 15k miles or so, and have had no problems or MIL lights. So far, so good.
great vid. i loosened the exhaust bolts but my exhaust studs started coming out also is this something that i should replace.
Sorry for the late reply. I'm sure you figured this out already. When they come out, that's not so bad, it's when they break that your day gets ruined.
@@jcs_diy26 I need to replace my Exhaust manifolds and flex pipe on my '93 GS 300. Since my ride has 2 manifolds and 1 flex pipe (Before the Cat), should I connect both the flex pipe and 2 manifolds before installing them or install them 1 by 1 separately?
@@Joseph-jo6rm It is a bit hard to say exactly as I cannot visualize precisely how the flex coupling attaches to the manifold, how flexible it is, and whether it could be installed after the manifolds are mounted. I believe the most important thing on that install would be to ensure the manifolds mate properly to the heads. If you can connect the flex coupling before hand and still maneuver the manifolds easily, then you can probably connect it before hand. If you do, I would recommend connecting it loosely and then tightening it after torquing the manifold bolts.
@@JohnPColbert Great! Thanks John, I'll consider doing so.
Are the manifold gaskets at the header metal multi layer gaskets? I ordered some and they are like 4 thin pieces of metal punched together
That sounds about right. The exhaust gaskets often have layers and sometimes metal rings around the exhaust ports. I don't recall exactly what the manifold gaskets looked like when I did the install, but at 10:36 on the video you can see the top of one of the gaskets. That might help.
I'm wondering if the process for changing out the 06 GS 300 AWD exhaust manifold is the same. Does anyone know?
I am wondering this too, did you ever find out?
@@spardu1 should be the same. the 2jz-ge manifold in all equipped cars GS or IS are routed the same way.
Hi, is it required to replace the manifold gaskets when the manifold is replaced, can’t the old gaskets be used?
I would recommend always changing the manifold gaskets when you change the exhaust manifold. I imagine you could try the old ones, but you obviously risk having it leak. The old ones would probably work, but the gaskets are not excessively expensive; so, it's really best to just replace them.
I’ve got a p430 code on my 2011 GS. Is that the front or the back manofold?
The P0430 code usually means that the O2 sensor downstream from the catalytic converter is not reading within specs. It's one or both of the front cats that is throwing this code.
Would bad cats cause a gs300 2003 Lexus not to start?
It's unlikely that your cats would stop the engine from starting. Certainly, a completely clogged exhaust could prevent the car from starting, but it's unlikely that the cats are completely clogged. I would definitely check for other trouble codes to see if they can provide a clue for why the car won't start. The car will run with P0420 or P0430 codes.
@@JohnPColbert I just bought the car the other night it’s been starting fine. It would hesitate a little bit from a stop and if I gave it a bunch of gas but besides that it ran smooth. Now it doesn’t wanna turn over. I got it starting after I unplugged the mass airflow sensor, it ran rough then died after a few seconds, I’m on my way as we speak right now to get a scan tool. I’ll update you.
@@piffy.4532 Please check the intake resonator. It is the part of the intake tube that sits between the Mass Airflow Sensor and the Throttle body. It's a black plastic box in a slight S curve shape with a metal heat shield on the bottom. It sits directly over the exhaust manifold. These resonators are notorious for cracking. It happened to me. A primary symptom is hesitation when starting from a stop. The crack lets air in after the MAF, which throws off the whole system. The resonator is very easy to remove, but be sure to actually remove it, because the cracks, even when they are large, are hard to see. This problem can cause misfires, hesitation, damage to your cats, and emissions trouble codes, so it would be good to give it a check. BTW - you can use some metal ducting tape to temporarily patch the crack until you can make a more permanent repair.
@@JohnPColbert I checked it this morning and it doesn’t have any cracks or holes. I’m starting to think it might be the fuel pump because when I would give it, gas would a heavy foot it would sputter, and then takeoff, but if I would ease into it it would dry fine and it died on me driving up my hill on my house so I’m gonna point all fingers to that because besides that it was running fine
Did you have to remove the 2 rear studs near the firewall to remove the manifold or was there enough room/clearance?
I was able to remove the manifold without removing the studs. As I recall, the manifold came out easily with just a bit a moving it around for clearance.
Did this repair make the codes go away? Did the codes ever come back after repair?
Hi Ron. You will notice at the end of the video that I completed all the drive cycle tests which resulted in no trouble codes. The video also shows that the vehicle successful completed the state inspection. The problem has not yet resurfaced. So, this repair did work for me.
Are those gas shocks that hold the hood open stock?
Yes. Came with it... Still work too.
JC, I noticed you also reused the metal bracket underneath. Is that absolutely necessary? I didn't put that part back on.
James. I assume you are referring to the heat shields. If so, I put them back on because the cats get hot and can bake everything around them. I don't know why the aftermarket providers don't include heat shields. I'm sure that the car will run fine without the heat shields, but over time other parts in the area, like the starter, could fail.
If you weren't talking about the heat shields, then perhaps you meant the circular metal clamp on the lower end of one the heat shields. My stock clamp welded itself together and broke on disassembly, so I replaced it with an aftermarket steel clamp. The shield would probably stay on without it, but I included it to make sure. I hope I interpreted your question correctly.
My apologies, JC. I was referring to where the exhaust manifold is held together with the 3 bolts(2 of which that are held in place with the bracket) to the exhaust pipe.
James Carroll III. Ah, yes. I did reuse it, but it is clearly not necessary. That bracket just makes it easier to remove/install the bolts since you don't need to hold the nut. I opted to use it for that reason. Certainly, a person could use the new bolts/nuts that come with the new manifold instead: it sounds like that is what you did, which may even be wiser.
That's exactly what I did, good sir. Also, do you have the torque specs for those bolts. I believe I'll need to go back and re-torque because I'm hearing a slight "growl". Good news: I got my inspection down on last week and my car passed! But a few days later the check-engine light came back on.
James Carroll III. Hmmm. That's not good. You definitely should fix any exhaust leaks. I don't remember the torque on those bolts. But with the seals installed properly, they should not leak as long as they are reasonably tight. Are you getting the same error codes for the check engine light?
Where did you buy this?
So if have p0430 and po420 just need to replace the exhaust manifold? Not the other rear cat? I’ve replaced o2 sensors, run lacquer thinner etc and I still have these f’in 🐱 codes. How much would a mechanic charge if I supplied the part?
I doubt changing the sensors fixed the problem for these codes, but the lacquer thinner may have helped. The codes will take a while to clear on their own, so you won't know if those efforts worked unless you clear the codes and go through the drive cycles. I cleared my codes manually and then drove the car through all the drive cycles to confirm the codes remained clear.
If you supply the part, a mechanic could probably do it for around $500. It's important that they put the heat shields back on the new manifold, which may require a bit of fabrication: just a small amount of trimming. That's why I say $500. The manifold itself is a pretty easy job; however, it takes longer to get the heat shields transferred.
Will this header work in California?
According to the receipt. No. The invoice says No CA or NY. I hope there is another aftermarket header available that you can find for a reasonable price.
What’s the torque spec to bolt it back?
In the video, I mentioned that I thought the torque was 30 foot pounds for the manifold bolts. Off the top of my head, I don't remember what the torque was exactly, but I looked them up in a manual at the time. Sorry I couldn't be of more help.
What penetrating solution do you use?
Hi there. I use the PB Catalyst penetrating fluid. Seems to work pretty well for me.
What brand catalytic converter did you buy
It's an Eastern brand. At about 44 seconds into the video, I show a copy of the invoice, which includes the part number.
Where did you buy your cat? I need one for my 2002 Lexus IS300. I don’t have smog check due yet but I would like to start now and not be rushed.
At just about 47 seconds into the video there is a copy of the order receipt. I purchased this from Eastern.
JC's_DIY yeah these are not legal in California, thanks anyway!
@@TonyAlvar3z These might work: "MagnaFlow Direct Fit CARB Catalytic Converter 452843" They are twice the price as the 49-state versions, but they still better than dealer cost. Good luck with your search.
I’m in Ca and the Lexus cats are $4,470.33.......crazy
No doubt. Great way to get you to trade in your car rather that fix it. Glad there are aftermarket cats available.
Did this aftermarket manifold last you for a good amount of time? I’ve heard that these aftermarket manifolds don’t last very long
Hello Dannie. Great question. I have noticed that the exposed pipes on the manifold have developed rust over the past two years. If I had it to do over again, I would probably spray the manifold with a ceramic coating, or something of the sort: I have no idea if that would void any warrantee. It is hard to tell how long my replacement manifold will last, but as of today, it is still functional with no error codes or other performance issues.
@@jcs_diy26 Great tip! I'll get it coated.
I have an SC 430 in great shape, but I've noticed that when I really hit the gas, it just doesn't seem to be as fast as it did, I hear a faint almost rattle-like noise, and it puts off a sulfur/rotten egg smell. Is this what the problem is? If so will fixing it give me my power back?
Rotten eggs is a smell associated with Failing cats, so is a reduction in power. It would be a good idea to have a tech check the in and out temps of the cats to see how they are functioning.
Hey bro how’s the catalytic converters holding?
They're holding on. I must add that I was lucky to find, shortly after this repair, that my resonator box had cracked, which was probably the cause of the cats going bad in the first place. It turns out that these cars have problems with the resonator boxes cracking, which allows air into the system after the mass airflow sensor. This leak throws the air/fuel mixture off that causes problems for the cats. In my case, the crack was about 6 inches long under the metal heat shield at the bottom rear of the box where it couldn't be seen unless you pulled it out and inspected it. I wonder if I had noticed that before the original cats failed, if they would still be on the car. No way to know, but it makes sense to check the resonator box.
@@jcs_diy26 thank you so much for the response! I bought a gs300 1998 with 114k miles for 1.5k pretty clean but only problem is they took the catalytic converters out before i noticed. I was just wondering what is a good company that will last me. I appreciate your help!
What did you do with the old manifold? I'm looking for one to take measurements off of. if you still have it would you mind donating it to my cause? I'll pay shipping :)
Timothy Rodriguez I would have gladly sent it you, but it is long gone now.
No worries! appreciate the gesture
Mine was only $800.
Fuck a couple k
Are these dormans
2jz
I have a '94 that I'm doing this very thing to....can't seem to wiggle exhaust manifolds back on... Turning into a real "pain in the a**"
I hope you were able to work out the problem. Exhaust manifolds shouldn't really require any major effort to get them to align with the manifold studs. I'm not sure if a '94 has exhaust manifold studs or if it takes bolts, but either way, the alignment should not be a problem. You may want to double check that you have the correct replacement manifold. Perhaps, you were referencing a different problem in trying to get them back on. I love it when a simple job turns into a nightmare. When all else fails, get a bigger hammer! Kidding. Best of luck. I hope you have already solved the issue.