There is a Stud and Bolt test video on UA-cam.. they test the PQY studs, they were 20,000 psi better than factory bolts...they didn't test SpeedDisaster....
They may not be consistent quality, but skip white recommends for budgets. Their tensile strength is about the same as GMs non ttyl bolts on old school stuff. So using factory torque specs is probably fine. ;)
Man i feel so bad… i was bout to exit video when homie said “unless you were just here to see the head studs, well here’s the head studs” had to stay after that🤣
about to try these cheap studs as well. I was gonna swap out my heads and cam in my tired out ls with some boost in mind 😁 stock ls1 had been seeking 14psi for some time, and I think the stock valves have been getting weak and losing boost in the upper range so while I'm in there, might as well try these studs out right?
Anyone have any thoughts after having them in for any length of time. I was looking at them for my mild boost build but if anyone is having issues months or years down the road I can go with a stock bolt. I'm not planning on running enough boost to warrant a full arp stud kit and I hear even factory bolt will handle 12 psi if tuned properly and I'll never come close to that
Well he never made another video about replacing them, so seems like they work like a charm. ARP is overrated too, probably over kill for most of us. if your doing boost you might as well get fire rings installed and ARP but yeah probably something none of us will come across as an issue, we just want to rebuild on the cheap and have a car / truck engine that runs for another 100K miles.
@@garymaya1767 Im a machine tool fitter its all down to the steel they use ARPs are way over priced for a bunch of bolts in m,y country ARPs are $700 and the cheaper one $120 someone should test the tensile strength and stretch, i would have like the guy to do a stretch after torqued down ARP can stick it in their arse im not paying $700 for a bunch of bolts worth less than $100 to make no one seems to test them soo im going to buy them and take some measurements to see just how they are but if their using the same steel and hardening i dont see why they couldn't do the job, but the Chinese are notorious for using shit steel, their would be guys using them with out issue or it would be plasted all over youtube saying they failed
@@alloyspeed1889 well I just posted my own comment but I see you say no issues after a year here. Ever get it up to the 8-10 psi level? I'm planning to be in the 6-8 area but would like a little headroom just in case. Considering mine is a daily ill never use race gas with 9.5-10 static compression I think I'll be limited to no more than 10 psi anyway to remain 100% safe on timing and detonation.
I bought a set of $50 head studs for my SBC, but as I started asking question, I felt I made a bad move. I literally broke down yesterday and spent almost $200 on ARP head studs. I know I can’t really go wrong with ARP.
@@miguelquiroz7557 yeah, what are you running triple turbo 50 psi boost, LOL, dude, if i can find these for $40 i would buy them! HELL YEAH. Miguel Quiroz is right bubba, don't cry over ARP $200, lol, get a whole engine for that at a graveyard.
I'm scared of the end of the stud that goes in the block. It looks like there is about 4 or 5 threads missing. In an aluminum block you need all the thread engagement you can get
The engine is complete, ive probably came close to 400 right now. But i havent been up to full boost yet. So i cant give you a number of what they are capable of.
@@mastermechanic1154 if you have the money for arp studs, get the arp brand. But new tq to yield bolts to top dollar studs will work with any non power adder engine. But when I start boosting and my heads lift at X psi, I'll be sure to show it in a video.
Factory head bolts are NOT torque to yield. Neither are the factory main bolts. The angle torquing method is just more accurate in a mass production setting. A few people have gone past what even Matt Happle has gone (1000+whp) re using the factory head bolts. Actual torque to yield bolts would never properly re torque.
I thought the head bolts are tty, that's all the information I find online. Doesnt tty means an elongated bolt that doesnt return to its original shape, not tq to the edge of breaking. But I do know sloppy reuses them and makes big power. Also bent a rod before lifting a head. Impressive.
@@alloyspeed1889 I know, the used bolts have been tested a few times and will hold more pulling strength than a new one. I don't know how this keeps getting put out there. A true torque to yield bolt will never pass a stretch test like the factory LS bolts will. The final pass on the head bolts is an angle spec, that is all. That angle gives the most repeatable accurate torque spec. Works out to about 80ftlbs. In a factory there is an octopus of sockets that do the torquing, angle is more repeatable. FWIW, I went SpeedMaster studs on my twin turbo 4.8l and so far so good on 17psi. Planning on going to 20 or 22psi.
There is a Stud and Bolt test video on UA-cam.. they test the PQY studs, they were 20,000 psi better than factory bolts...they didn't test SpeedDisaster....
They may not be consistent quality, but skip white recommends for budgets. Their tensile strength is about the same as GMs non ttyl bolts on old school stuff. So using factory torque specs is probably fine. ;)
You're been using them for a while now. Do you recommend using them?
Man i feel so bad… i was bout to exit video when homie said “unless you were just here to see the head studs, well here’s the head studs” had to stay after that🤣
When I installed my speedmaster studs they was loose in the holes I couldn’t even. Use em for fear of pulling out the threads
about to try these cheap studs as well. I was gonna swap out my heads and cam in my tired out ls with some boost in mind 😁 stock ls1 had been seeking 14psi for some time, and I think the stock valves have been getting weak and losing boost in the upper range so while I'm in there, might as well try these studs out right?
I have a buddy who runs these on a 5 sec nitrous powered s10 no issues in 5 yrs
did he
Ive got the exact same studs, about to install now. Cheers for the clip!
did u
Any update after 2 years?
@@nickmanwebb14 I have them in an ls1 gto, na, no problems they are still in the car now...
@@CCCC-tq8yo yes all good after two years
@@harmankardon478 whow
Anyone have any thoughts after having them in for any length of time. I was looking at them for my mild boost build but if anyone is having issues months or years down the road I can go with a stock bolt. I'm not planning on running enough boost to warrant a full arp stud kit and I hear even factory bolt will handle 12 psi if tuned properly and I'll never come close to that
Well he never made another video about replacing them, so seems like they work like a charm. ARP is overrated too, probably over kill for most of us. if your doing boost you might as well get fire rings installed and ARP but yeah probably something none of us will come across as an issue, we just want to rebuild on the cheap and have a car / truck engine that runs for another 100K miles.
@@garymaya1767 Im a machine tool fitter its all down to the steel they use ARPs are way over priced for a bunch of bolts in m,y country ARPs are $700 and the cheaper one $120 someone should test the tensile strength and stretch, i would have like the guy to do a stretch after torqued down ARP can stick it in their arse im not paying $700 for a bunch of bolts worth less than $100 to make no one seems to test them soo im going to buy them and take some measurements to see just how they are but if their using the same steel and hardening i dont see why they couldn't do the job, but the Chinese are notorious for using shit steel, their would be guys using them with out issue or it would be plasted all over youtube saying they failed
What was the torque
Hey bud it’s been a year are you still using these studs how are they holding up?
I've only hit about 5 lbs of boost, but no blown gaskets. Also I dont know at what point the heads will lift.
@@alloyspeed1889 well I just posted my own comment but I see you say no issues after a year here. Ever get it up to the 8-10 psi level? I'm planning to be in the 6-8 area but would like a little headroom just in case. Considering mine is a daily ill never use race gas with 9.5-10 static compression I think I'll be limited to no more than 10 psi anyway to remain 100% safe on timing and detonation.
Do I have to pull my motor or can I install them In my truck I have a gmt800
I bought a set of $50 head studs for my SBC, but as I started asking question, I felt I made a bad move. I literally broke down yesterday and spent almost $200 on ARP head studs. I know I can’t really go wrong with ARP.
when
50 dollar or arp same shit bud uour just paying for the brand cause they both do the same shit
@@miguelquiroz7557 yeah, what are you running triple turbo 50 psi boost, LOL, dude, if i can find these for $40 i would buy them! HELL YEAH. Miguel Quiroz is right bubba, don't cry over ARP $200, lol, get a whole engine for that at a graveyard.
Ouch.
I'm scared of the end of the stud that goes in the block. It looks like there is about 4 or 5 threads missing. In an aluminum block you need all the thread engagement you can get
You only need 1.5x the diameter of the bolt to engage. If theres more than that ur good.
that's wrong dude, 3 turns and that's all the thread you need dude. go read about it.
Have you finished this? Like turbod? What kind of power did they hold?
The engine is complete, ive probably came close to 400 right now. But i havent been up to full boost yet. So i cant give you a number of what they are capable of.
Lol little late but I made 800 wheel with them on a 5.3 turbo build
@@sheensmx6464 those gotta be way better than stock GM😆
Thank you!
My 10mm 12pt socket just spins on the smaller nuts. How annoying! I can't get any of my 12pts to grab the splines :(
Geek Girl get a 3/8
Get some sandpaper and rough one side of the washer so it can bite into the heads
Have you ran this motor yet?
Yes, behind in videos. Way behind. No lost cylinders. But hasn't been on boost yet.
Any issues with them yet? I'm putting heads cam and a 150-200 shot through mine
No issue with them yet. But still havent been up to full boost. I took off for the winter.
How much have you put to it?
@@allenyoung2492 4-5lbs
Any luck?
I have not put boost into the engine yet. But good so far.
How’d they hold up
Still running but not as nice as arp bolts
Alloyspeed so they’re not really worth it?
@@mastermechanic1154 if you have the money for arp studs, get the arp brand. But new tq to yield bolts to top dollar studs will work with any non power adder engine. But when I start boosting and my heads lift at X psi, I'll be sure to show it in a video.
Alloyspeed I’m just running cam springs and bolt ons, but I’m gonna put 799 heads on a 6.0. Probably leaving it at that
@@mastermechanic1154 you will be fine with these studs or tq to yield bolts. Just dont tq these studs to yield.
Factory head bolts are NOT torque to yield. Neither are the factory main bolts. The angle torquing method is just more accurate in a mass production setting.
A few people have gone past what even Matt Happle has gone (1000+whp) re using the factory head bolts.
Actual torque to yield bolts would never properly re torque.
I thought the head bolts are tty, that's all the information I find online. Doesnt tty means an elongated bolt that doesnt return to its original shape, not tq to the edge of breaking.
But I do know sloppy reuses them and makes big power. Also bent a rod before lifting a head. Impressive.
@@alloyspeed1889 I know, the used bolts have been tested a few times and will hold more pulling strength than a new one.
I don't know how this keeps getting put out there. A true torque to yield bolt will never pass a stretch test like the factory LS bolts will.
The final pass on the head bolts is an angle spec, that is all. That angle gives the most repeatable accurate torque spec. Works out to about 80ftlbs. In a factory there is an octopus of sockets that do the torquing, angle is more repeatable.
FWIW, I went SpeedMaster studs on my twin turbo 4.8l and so far so good on 17psi. Planning on going to 20 or 22psi.
@@littleherms3285 Have you ever googles this? Google is FULL of companies and people saying NOT TO RE-USE THE BOLTS
@@superkillr have YOU?!?! This is old news, move along and let rest of us make 800+whp in peace.
ARP directions for mine were 30,70 then 100