Thanks for posting this. The procedure for releasing all the tension in the belt wasn't 100% clear after reading the PDF guide. This video does a great job of filling in the blanks.
Yes, to be able to rotate the cam sprocket independent of the camshaft you need to loosen the three bolts. This rotation of the sprocket moves the slack in the belt from the tensioner side to the water pump side.
Hello, why does the timing synchronization change from 1.2 on a cold engine to 0.4 on a warm 90 C? Is the timing correctly installed? 1.6 tdi cayc engine ....
I guess for removal it isn't necessary to loosen the 3 cam sprocket bolts before loosening the tensioner but it's essential that the new belt be tensioned with those 3 bolts loose.
you may just adjust the torsioner to "0" before taking off the belt, then after you ve done this put a 6vv drill into the sproket and make makr with permanent marker against the crank sproket. and change the belt. with 5th gear switched on. that's in case in you dont have these tools
Hello, to remove the cam gear it is enough to remove just the middle bolt ? I dont want to lose the torsion angle if i won't line up properly the 3 bolts.
Negative. The large bolt holds down the cam sprocket hub, which is both tapered and keyed on the PD and CR camshafts. You need to loosen the three bolts, use the proper lock down tools, set tension, torque the sprocket back down. Later you can fine tune torsion value.
Is this the same as the BKC engine? I have just done the timing belt and now the car won't start, timing marks line up correctly. I noticed your crank locking mark is in a different place to mine though, mine locks at something like 1 o'clock and yours locks at 11 o'clock. Everything else looks identical though.
my 2006 audi a4 is non starter now (sometimes if it does start it cuts itself in 30 or less seconds(accelerator is not working aswell) so i think the timing is not right,it might be that belt have been slipped , because when i slide the pin in the cam, with crankshaft tool on, my cranks marking shows 11 o'clock and it suppose to show 1'oclock, if you understand what i mean. it might be that someone tensioned the pulley and the water pump to adjust timing but its definitely not right with the tool. what do you recon is it possible that it jumped (slipped) few teeth or one tooth or etc.? PS. the tool for crank is not going in properly seems its sitting to high (didn't removed cambelt yet) is that will help?
Sorry, not really following your description. Please create an account and start up a thread on tdiclub (where I'm also a member). Post some pictures of what you're seeing.
You don't adjust the injection timing as you would on the earlier VE motors. What you are doing is ensuring the cam and crank are lined up with the pins so that the PD injectors are being actuated by the cam at the correct moment so the ECM can do its job of electronically controlling the timing. In other words, the cam is only generating the pressure for the unit injector (PD) and the ecm is telling it when to open and close. That being said, there is a procedure for ensuring the cam to crank timing is set properly by use of vcds (vagcom). If you need instructions on that check out tdiclub.com. HTH.
I rotated the crank at the end so the crank lock down could be inserted. The "timing" of the cam and crank with this crank lock down and cam lock down installed puts both of them perfectly at TDC...making the timing right on.
Hey man Where did you get the tool also the name f it you could drop it down the line Thank you for your time making this video Good luck Thx Arthur Glasgow
The tensioner pin usually comes with the new tensioner. It's nothing special... Could use a nail or drill bit if you don't have one. Timing belt tools from dieselgeek.com
Where do you get this exact camshaft lock pin from . I've bought 3 all different range of prices and all I have to HAMMER into the block of all the CR engines I'm doing lately. I'm at a point of hating my life when I see you just 'slide it in'. And my pulleys are always aligned correctly I've actually removed the pulley on the last one and hole in block is simply too darn small
You done this in the wrong order, lock the camshaft, loosen the three cam sprocket bolts, turn the crankshaft Til the crank lock clicks in place, then loosen the belt. Simple
Simon Bingham Yes, should be identical to this procedure. You unfortunately won't have the same access to the engine since your Seat has a transverse engine orientation. hth.
in ASZ engine it depends wich year it is. In autodata said that if its before 2002 is with hidraulic tensioner after 2002 its not with hidraulic tensioner exatcly like in this video @@pejalp
I did this video on a B5.5 Passat with a BHW engine (PD). I had already converted the chain-driven balance shaft module to a gear-driven one so I had the lock carrier in service position. This provides fantastic service access as well as great camera angles. :)
When I am just doing a timing belt on a B5 I only slide the lock carrier forward on the service pins instead of swinging out of the way as I did in the video. This way you have the same service access as a transverse car.
Best video ever shows how to use the tools. Cheers.
Thank you!!
10/10 for both the video and your very helpful comments here! 😃
Thanks John!
Thanks for posting this. The procedure for releasing all the tension in the belt wasn't 100% clear after reading the PDF guide. This video does a great job of filling in the blanks.
That is exactly video I needed! Thanks very much!
Yes, to be able to rotate the cam sprocket independent of the camshaft you need to loosen the three bolts. This rotation of the sprocket moves the slack in the belt from the tensioner side to the water pump side.
Hello, why does the timing synchronization change from 1.2 on a cold engine to 0.4 on a warm 90 C? Is the timing correctly installed? 1.6 tdi cayc engine ....
Absolute legend mate 😀
I guess for removal it isn't necessary to loosen the 3 cam sprocket bolts before loosening the tensioner but it's essential that the new belt be tensioned with those 3 bolts loose.
Made it look easy
Thanks for helping us. Very useful information.
Graet job done sir
Thank you!
excelent
you may just adjust the torsioner to "0" before taking off the belt, then after you ve done this put a 6vv drill into the sproket and make makr with permanent marker against the crank sproket. and change the belt. with 5th gear switched on. that's in case in you dont have these tools
Life saver
Hello, to remove the cam gear it is enough to remove just the middle bolt ? I dont want to lose the torsion angle if i won't line up properly the 3 bolts.
Negative. The large bolt holds down the cam sprocket hub, which is both tapered and keyed on the PD and CR camshafts. You need to loosen the three bolts, use the proper lock down tools, set tension, torque the sprocket back down. Later you can fine tune torsion value.
On fitting the new belt, do you tighten up the 3 camshaft sprocket bolts before or after setting the tension? Thanks
After!
thanks
Is this the same as the BKC engine? I have just done the timing belt and now the car won't start, timing marks line up correctly. I noticed your crank locking mark is in a different place to mine though, mine locks at something like 1 o'clock and yours locks at 11 o'clock. Everything else looks identical though.
Yes, same procedure on the BKC. As you noted, the tdc mark on the crank sprocket is in a slightly different location.
my 2006 audi a4 is non starter now (sometimes if it does start it cuts itself in 30 or less seconds(accelerator is not working aswell) so i think the timing is not right,it might be that belt have been slipped , because when i slide the pin in the cam, with crankshaft tool on, my cranks marking shows 11 o'clock and it suppose to show 1'oclock, if you understand what i mean. it might be that someone tensioned the pulley and the water pump to adjust timing but its definitely not right with the tool. what do you recon is it possible that it jumped (slipped) few teeth or one tooth or etc.?
PS. the tool for crank is not going in properly seems its sitting to high (didn't removed cambelt yet) is that will help?
Sorry, not really following your description.
Please create an account and start up a thread on tdiclub (where I'm also a member). Post some pictures of what you're seeing.
greengeeker1
it was out by three teeth, now everything is all right, i'm lucky one it didn't damage valves.
Hello, i have a VW-PD TDI engine and i want to know how i adjust the pumpinjectors (timing) on this type of engine
Please let me know
You don't adjust the injection timing as you would on the earlier VE motors. What you are doing is ensuring the cam and crank are lined up with the pins so that the PD injectors are being actuated by the cam at the correct moment so the ECM can do its job of electronically controlling the timing. In other words, the cam is only generating the pressure for the unit injector (PD) and the ecm is telling it when to open and close.
That being said, there is a procedure for ensuring the cam to crank timing is set properly by use of vcds (vagcom). If you need instructions on that check out tdiclub.com. HTH.
Hi do you have any video on how to change the cam on this engine
is this ATD engine? I see this motor uses simple timing belt tensioner. some uses hydraulic one.
No, this is a BHW engine code in a B5.5 Passat.
greengeeker1
Thank you, do you know if ATD engine uses this kind of tensioner?
Yes, ATD engine should use this same type of tensioner.
greengeeker1
thanks
Why did you turn the crank at the end? Surely the timing is now out?
I rotated the crank at the end so the crank lock down could be inserted. The "timing" of the cam and crank with this crank lock down and cam lock down installed puts both of them perfectly at TDC...making the timing right on.
Hey man Where did you get the tool also the name f it you could drop it down the line Thank you for your time making this video Good luck Thx Arthur Glasgow
The tensioner pin usually comes with the new tensioner. It's nothing special... Could use a nail or drill bit if you don't have one. Timing belt tools from dieselgeek.com
Do you got a link for the tools ?
Where do you get this exact camshaft lock pin from . I've bought 3 all different range of prices and all I have to HAMMER into the block of all the CR engines I'm doing lately. I'm at a point of hating my life when I see you just 'slide it in'. And my pulleys are always aligned correctly I've actually removed the pulley on the last one and hole in block is simply too darn small
www.metalnerd.com/
You done this in the wrong order, lock the camshaft, loosen the three cam sprocket bolts, turn the crankshaft Til the crank lock clicks in place, then loosen the belt. Simple
It works both ways... It's in disassembly stage, the order he did it in was still perfectly fine.
Correct.
Is this same as ASZ engine ? as on a 1.9TDI seat Ibiza ( 130 hp )
Simon Bingham Yes, should be identical to this procedure. You unfortunately won't have the same access to the engine since your Seat has a transverse engine orientation. hth.
greengeeker1 doesnt the asz engine have hydraulic tensioner ?
in ASZ engine it depends wich year it is. In autodata said that if its before 2002 is with hidraulic tensioner after 2002 its not with hidraulic tensioner exatcly like in this video @@pejalp
I see!
I'm guessing this motor is not in a car? I wish it was that easy to get at this stuff lol
I did this video on a B5.5 Passat with a BHW engine (PD). I had already converted the chain-driven balance shaft module to a gear-driven one so I had the lock carrier in service position. This provides fantastic service access as well as great camera angles. :)
I see that! so would it be best to do this when doing a timing belt change or just do it the normal way?
When I am just doing a timing belt on a B5 I only slide the lock carrier forward on the service pins instead of swinging out of the way as I did in the video. This way you have the same service access as a transverse car.
surely a decent pair of side cutters would remove it quicker?
Boing!