Fantastic work. I'll be uploading a video in the next few weeks of a monitor I had this exact issue with, the blue transistor. Thanks for all you guys do.
The ground to check the color working on the tube is really helpful, thanks a lot!! I have a Outrun 2 and a Initial D version 3 and both have no Green color. This really helps me narrow the problem. Hopefully its just a bad solder.
@RejectedManiac Yes, a transistor for blue was bad on the K7400 I finally installed into the MK1 cab after the ordeal with the original tube (with weak blue gun) and the replacement tube (with ALL emissions low)... lol! The MK1 monitor issue kept me occupied a couple of months.
Great videos,a lot of skills shown all the time great job on videos,I have a super sprint screen just won’t stop scrolling , I recaped chassis still 3 screens & just not 1 ,??
@NeonGenesisPlatinum These scanlines you are experiencing are caused by a bad capacitor most of the time. We recommend installing a cap kit on your monitor chassis to see if this resolves the issues. Check out our video on Installing A Cap Kit for more information. Thanks for your question and keep us updated on your progress.
@AreYouLuckyWoW A Choplifter for $250 is not a bad price if it's working. Keep in mind that the amount you pay for a game should really depend on what it means to you. If you think it's worth the $250 then buy it for that price. If you think it's worth less, offer the seller less and see if he takes it. Thanks for your question and let us know if you end up picking it up.
Hi, you have very nice videos, They are very well done and informative. I'm from Brazil and even with the language barrier I'm learning :-) I would like to ask a question, is possible. I have a monitor that loses the red color after a couple of minutes it's powered on. If I turf off and then turn on again, the color return for some more minutes. Can you give me any advice or tip about where I should look to repair it? I don't know electronics, I'm studying for your videos and some others. thks
@varcadegames I have 2 differen chassis for it and one has just been refurbished but the lines are there with both! Somebody mentioned that it could be something to do with the copper coil that is actually srewed onto the neck of the tube itself? Any ideas?
I have a question and would love if you could do a video on it. You know the scan lines you can see on your montitor when it is on, i have a street fighter machine and at the top 3 or 4 cm's the scan lines have seperated eg' there is black spacing in betweeen the lines at the top! What the hell causes the and can it be fixed. Thanks
I have a question and would love if you could do a video on it You know the scan lines you can see on your hd when it is on I have a batman machine and at the top 3 or 4 Cms the scan lines have separated eg there is black spacing in between the lines at the top! What the hell causes the and can it be fixed. Thanks
@RejectedManiac Well, the monitor with bad blue transistor is not yet in any of my vids, but it'll be uploaded soon. It was on a WG K7400 I bought for the MK1 machine I was working on. The monitor was great at first, but soon had total loss of blue, and I knew the emissions had been great recently, so I found the transistor to be the culprit. Can't remember if I swapped in one of the other 2 transistors, or if I tested it with a meter. (Search topic 106463 at forum.arcadecontrols.)
This videos are really fantastic, thank you for sharing so much knowledge!
Nice explanation
Fantastic work. I'll be uploading a video in the next few weeks of a monitor I had this exact issue with, the blue transistor. Thanks for all you guys do.
This is an awesome video, thank you.
Wow, thanks so much for that info...I need to do this on the crt in my Zaxxon cab! Thanks again, great info.
Very awesome video guys! Thanks a lot.
I love your video's.
Thanks from Down Under guys!
This is very helpful Saved 2 monitors thanks
The ground to check the color working on the tube is really helpful, thanks a lot!! I have a Outrun 2 and a Initial D version 3 and both have no Green color. This really helps me narrow the problem. Hopefully its just a bad solder.
@RejectedManiac Yes, a transistor for blue was bad on the K7400 I finally installed into the MK1 cab after the ordeal with the original tube (with weak blue gun) and the replacement tube (with ALL emissions low)... lol! The MK1 monitor issue kept me occupied a couple of months.
Great videos,a lot of skills shown all the time great job on videos,I have a super sprint screen just won’t stop scrolling , I recaped chassis still 3 screens & just not 1 ,??
@NeonGenesisPlatinum These scanlines you are experiencing are caused by a bad capacitor most of the time. We recommend installing a cap kit on your monitor chassis to see if this resolves the issues. Check out our video on Installing A Cap Kit for more information. Thanks for your question and keep us updated on your progress.
@AreYouLuckyWoW A Choplifter for $250 is not a bad price if it's working. Keep in mind that the amount you pay for a game should really depend on what it means to you. If you think it's worth the $250 then buy it for that price. If you think it's worth less, offer the seller less and see if he takes it. Thanks for your question and let us know if you end up picking it up.
Hi, you have very nice videos, They are very well done and informative. I'm from Brazil and even with the language barrier I'm learning :-)
I would like to ask a question, is possible. I have a monitor that loses the red color after a couple of minutes it's powered on. If I turf off and then turn on again, the color return for some more minutes. Can you give me any advice or tip about where I should look to repair it?
I don't know electronics, I'm studying for your videos and some others. thks
Very informative thanks :)
@varcadegames I have 2 differen chassis for it and one has just been refurbished but the lines are there with both!
Somebody mentioned that it could be something to do with the copper coil that is actually srewed onto the neck of the tube itself?
Any ideas?
@TortureBot Hey seen your video. What happened when you did this test?
I have a question and would love if you could do a video on it.
You know the scan lines you can see on your montitor when it is on, i have a street fighter machine and at the top 3 or 4 cm's the scan lines have seperated eg' there is black spacing in betweeen the lines at the top!
What the hell causes the and can it be fixed.
Thanks
I have a question and would love if you could do a video on it
You know the scan lines you can see on your hd when it is on I have a batman machine and at the top
3 or 4 Cms the scan lines have separated eg there is black spacing in between the lines at the top!
What the hell causes the and can it be fixed. Thanks
@RejectedManiac Well, the monitor with bad blue transistor is not yet in any of my vids, but it'll be uploaded soon. It was on a WG K7400 I bought for the MK1 machine I was working on. The monitor was great at first, but soon had total loss of blue, and I knew the emissions had been great recently, so I found the transistor to be the culprit. Can't remember if I swapped in one of the other 2 transistors, or if I tested it with a meter. (Search topic 106463 at forum.arcadecontrols.)
For anyone wondering, on a G07, the pins are labeled RK, BK, and GK.
when i turn on my asteroids deluxe spot killer light is on and my 1 and 2 player lights on solid. Nothing powers up on monitor. Any ideas?
What do you do if your tube is bad? R U sol?
@TortureBot Ah so it was a transistor like in this video?
@KG66Manta Just discharge the monitor before messing with it so you don't have to worry about it. :)
I know this video is super old, but y'all are killing me with your pronunciation of chassis