anyway, I Love your video, u have amazing & detailed images, your voice very soft & clear, I wondering what kind of mic do u use while u reviewing this video?
Hi Dijah. Thank you for the nice comments. For the kit read some of the other comments below that I have just answered. We recorded my voice with a Lavelier clip on mic, Nothing too fancy, probably a Rode Link www.rode.com/wireless/filmmaker
Frederick, FYI, the C100 Mark II ONLY, I repeat ONLY outputs 59.94P through the HDMI. I have the same setup and even though the Ninja Blade will record when the HDMI is plugged in, you are getting interlaced video at 29.97fps. The Ninja 2 and Ninja Blade CANNOT record 60fps or 59.94p progressive. I had to verify and confirm this information with Canon & B&H because I could not understand why my internal recording in Camera was progressive but the Ninja Blade recorded interlaced. Just so you know the C100 mark 1 and the C100 mark 1 with DPAF DO NOT have this issue. Only the C100 mark II has this issue with the Ninja 2 and Ninja Blade because canon made the HDMI to only export 59.94p for slow motion . Basically I had buy a Ninja Inferno 4K recorder which is capable of recording 60p to be able to record true progressive 59.94 from the C100 Mark II.
My Atomos box (not sure which) but not an expensive one, can pull it down to 25 fps progressive if I muck around with the setting. Now all I have to do is see if it’s actually working. Seeing 60 FPS on the HDMI curdled my blood a little.
Fantastic video, really enjoyed both parts! Thank you! I saw another UA-cam tutorial where the speaker says to ABSOLUTELY ONLY use the CLog profile to get the most dynamic range. Another UA-cam video said to use the WIDEDR profile, exactly like you. Can you shed some light on this? I’ve been shooting in Log for several on Panasonic cameras so I’m really used to the Log profiles. Any input would be appreciated. Again, thank you!
Hi Sorin. Glad you liked the videos. The Log C profile WILL give you more dynamic range if you expose it properly and its not that hard to grade either as It does not need a LUT, unlike the Sony profiles, just stretching the image out using curves or sliders. The reason I recommend WDR on the C100 though, is because it is much easier to expose correctly using the Zebra at 70 percent on your lighter skin tones. I work with film students (who I made the film for) who often use C Log, then underexpose it and it looks dreadful, particularly on night shoots or in a black studio. Also If you over expose Clog, I find your skin tones look weird too, unlike the Sony Slog profiles, which love overexposure. If the Zebra pattern went down to 60 percent it would fine, but it doesn't. So its not that WDR is better, I just think its easier to expose than Clog using the viewfinder and Zebra patterns and looks great with little grading. (I have a background in Cinematography so its second nature for me to get correct exposure in WDR or Clog using Zebras, Waveform, meters etc) Remember, WDR stands for Wide Dynamic Range, so you are still getting more details in your blacks and gentler clipping in the highlights than standard, just not as much as Clog. I am also a fan of using the HLG 2 profile on the Sony A7111 instead of Slog 2 or 3 for the same reason. Hope this helps. F
@@frederickreed4604 Fantastic reply, thank you kindly. I have a great camera, the Lumix S1H, that on many levels does so much more than the C100 yet I’ve got this strong pull and attraction towards the simplicity of the C100 mark2 but also its organic, filmic look... that elusive term that we are all after lol... I hope I won’t be disappointed because I’m planning on acquiring one this summer. It would seem like a step backwards at first glance because the S1H does 6K (3:2 ratio) so we shall see. And of course there is more to an image than simply resolution, that is a given. But in the meantime I’ve enjoyed your videos. Cheers from Montreal!
@@sorinski The C100 is an old camera now and the image is not as detailed as say the the Sony A7111 but with the some nice glass, the Canon colour space is (in my opinion) really good. Also I really like that it has NDs and XLRs which turn it into a proper production camera for my students.
@@frederickreed4604 yes indeed the built-in ND filters are very appealing to me as well as the built in XLR ports. The form factor is what appeals to me, besides the image quality. I’ve been seeing some amazing footage filmed by the C100 mark 2 in the last few weeks on UA-cam. I’ve got some great lenses myself (Sigma Art series) and some Canon L as well. If I had to ask you, what would you choose between a used C100 mark 2 or a C300 mark 1, what would your answer be? The C300 may seem superior but it can’t do 1080/60p like the C100 mark 2 which is very important to me. The codec is superior on the C300 but the C100 mark 2 is a more recent camera. Any thoughts?
can you please help? I watched pt 1 and the very last sectionyou talked about the iris control wheel ( brighten and darken) ive had this camera for over a year now and that is my arch enemy as anytime i go out to film anything that thing moves up and down darking or blowing out what im filming. Is there a way for it to be on auto so you dont hear me spin the wheel to lighten or darken when im filming? It makes me not want to use the camera its so frustrating. Ty
Hi Joe, sorry, just seen your comment. TBH I dont know if the Canon will run any kind of Auto exposure mode in ISO or Iris. There is a button near the ND wheel which you can press which will reset the aperture 'Push auto Iris' which is very handy for a new set up but will need to be pressed next time you reframe or change the angle. As far as the noise is concerned it depends what you are using the camera for. For all my students the sound from the onboard mic is never uses as they are either running a better mic into the XLR inputs on the top handle or recording dual system and only using the onboard mic (warts and all ) for sync purposes . Here is a link to a post about getting correct exposure manually on the C100 or similar. Best Fred www.cuvideoedit.com/canon-c100-exposure.php
Frederick Reed I appreciate this. Do you ever teach an online course for beginners on just this camera? Or could I play you to do a one on one. I’m about ready to just get rid of it.
Joe. Tell me a bit about what you want to film with your camera. Is it the first camera with masses of manual controls you have used ? I dont do one to ones (unless you study at BathSpa University but I am sure we can find some other on line tutorials here that can help you out.
Frederick Reed honestly I wanted to make small “run and gun” style mini doc that look somewhat professional. The C 100 was recommended to me at B&H in NYC so I broke down and bought it. But it’s been more then a challenge. I just kinda wanted to follow ppl around getting interviews and b roll but every time I seems to move this camera has issues with light or something causing me to have to stop and mess with a dial or something. I really just need a “here’s how this particular camera works” one on one. Otherwise I’m going to sell it. I hate that I spent all this money and because of the frustration level it’s just sitting there like a 3500 paper weight because I can’t seem to use it properly. I appreciate any help. Thank You
@@josephllawson Joe, because the C100 is a mostly manual camera, to go 'Run and gun' is going to take a degree of confidence . If you are still learning the camera and how to control focus and exposure, you are are going to struggle (at least at the start) with getting what you need. B and H were correct in that using a camera like this you can get really nice pro images if you know what you are after and how to get it. If you want to make a go of it, here is another tutorial on how to set it up. Make sure you use the top handle for better sound. Select auto focus on the lens, then every time you set up a new shot, press the "push focus' and 'Auto iris' buttons to get them sharp and approx exposed. Also I would shoot everything on the WDR picture profile as Standard looks awful. ua-cam.com/video/cldC-mh-X14/v-deo.html. If this is not for you however you need to change camera to something with full auto like the Sony PXw x70 which I have made a film for. ua-cam.com/video/oHytL4rJXg0/v-deo.html This is half the size, has full auto and full manual settings and looks great, though not as 'Cinematic' as the Canon as it has a smaller sensor giving it different focus characteristics. As its an old camera now a 2nd hand one would be cheap and a new one comes with 4 K which is an improvement on the C100. All the best and good luck.
Hi David, its one of these from Redrock. Plus much cheaper FF and bars probably from Amazon. The Mattbox is decent and from from Vocus. shop.redrockmicro.com/product/ultracage-cinema-eos-mkii/
That was so useful thank you so much!
You're welcome Pauline, thanks.
Great video it helps me alot🤓
anyway, I Love your video, u have amazing & detailed images, your voice very soft & clear, I wondering what kind of mic do u use while u reviewing this video?
Hi Dijah. Thank you for the nice comments. For the kit read some of the other comments below that I have just answered. We recorded my voice with a Lavelier clip on mic, Nothing too fancy, probably a Rode Link www.rode.com/wireless/filmmaker
Frederick, FYI, the C100 Mark II ONLY, I repeat ONLY outputs 59.94P through the HDMI. I have the same setup and even though the Ninja Blade will record when the HDMI is plugged in, you are getting interlaced video at 29.97fps. The Ninja 2 and Ninja Blade CANNOT record 60fps or 59.94p progressive. I had to verify and confirm this information with Canon & B&H because I could not understand why my internal recording in Camera was progressive but the Ninja Blade recorded interlaced. Just so you know the C100 mark 1 and the C100 mark 1 with DPAF DO NOT have this issue. Only the C100 mark II has this issue with the Ninja 2 and Ninja Blade because canon made the HDMI to only export 59.94p for slow motion . Basically I had buy a Ninja Inferno 4K recorder which is capable of recording 60p to be able to record true progressive 59.94 from the C100 Mark II.
Thanks for this.
My Atomos box (not sure which) but not an expensive one, can pull it down to 25 fps progressive if I muck around with the setting. Now all I have to do is see if it’s actually working. Seeing 60 FPS on the HDMI curdled my blood a little.
🌹🌹🌹🌹🌹🌹🌹🌹👍👍👏👏
could u put the link where can I get all that tools, please.
Fantastic video, really enjoyed both parts! Thank you! I saw another UA-cam tutorial where the speaker says to ABSOLUTELY ONLY use the CLog profile to get the most dynamic range. Another UA-cam video said to use the WIDEDR profile, exactly like you. Can you shed some light on this? I’ve been shooting in Log for several on Panasonic cameras so I’m really used to the Log profiles. Any input would be appreciated. Again, thank you!
Hi Sorin. Glad you liked the videos. The Log C profile WILL give you more dynamic range if you expose it properly and its not that hard to grade either as It does not need a LUT, unlike the Sony profiles, just stretching the image out using curves or sliders. The reason I recommend WDR on the C100 though, is because it is much easier to expose correctly using the Zebra at 70 percent on your lighter skin tones. I work with film students (who I made the film for) who often use C Log, then underexpose it and it looks dreadful, particularly on night shoots or in a black studio.
Also If you over expose Clog, I find your skin tones look weird too, unlike the Sony Slog profiles, which love overexposure. If the Zebra pattern went down to 60 percent it would fine, but it doesn't. So its not that WDR is better, I just think its easier to expose than Clog using the viewfinder and Zebra patterns and looks great with little grading. (I have a background in Cinematography so its second nature for me to get correct exposure in WDR or Clog using Zebras, Waveform, meters etc)
Remember, WDR stands for Wide Dynamic Range, so you are still getting more details in your blacks and gentler clipping in the highlights than standard, just not as much as Clog.
I am also a fan of using the HLG 2 profile on the Sony A7111 instead of Slog 2 or 3 for the same reason. Hope this helps. F
@@frederickreed4604 Fantastic reply, thank you kindly. I have a great camera, the Lumix S1H, that on many levels does so much more than the C100 yet I’ve got this strong pull and attraction towards the simplicity of the C100 mark2 but also its organic, filmic look... that elusive term that we are all after lol... I hope I won’t be disappointed because I’m planning on acquiring one this summer. It would seem like a step backwards at first glance because the S1H does 6K (3:2 ratio) so we shall see. And of course there is more to an image than simply resolution, that is a given. But in the meantime I’ve enjoyed your videos. Cheers from Montreal!
@@sorinski The C100 is an old camera now and the image is not as detailed as say the the Sony A7111 but with the some nice glass, the Canon colour space is (in my opinion) really good. Also I really like that it has NDs and XLRs which turn it into a proper production camera for my students.
@@frederickreed4604 yes indeed the built-in ND filters are very appealing to me as well as the built in XLR ports. The form factor is what appeals to me, besides the image quality. I’ve been seeing some amazing footage filmed by the C100 mark 2 in the last few weeks on UA-cam. I’ve got some great lenses myself (Sigma Art series) and some Canon L as well. If I had to ask you, what would you choose between a used C100 mark 2 or a C300 mark 1, what would your answer be? The C300 may seem superior but it can’t do 1080/60p like the C100 mark 2 which is very important to me. The codec is superior on the C300 but the C100 mark 2 is a more recent camera. Any thoughts?
@@sorinski Hi Sorin, I am afraid I have never used a C300. Someone here has probably made a video comparing them. All the best F
I think the XLRaudio connection is difficult at that setting, is it possible?
Hi. Is this cage made for the mark one or the mark two only ?
oh yeah where can I get tripod like u?
Tripod is a Manfrotto 504 head. cvp.com/product/manfrotto-mvk504twingc-504-video-head-cf
10:01
6:34
can you please help? I watched pt 1 and the very last sectionyou talked about the iris control wheel ( brighten and darken) ive had this camera for over a year now and that is my arch enemy as anytime i go out to film anything that thing moves up and down darking or blowing out what im filming. Is there a way for it to be on auto so you dont hear me spin the wheel to lighten or darken when im filming? It makes me not want to use the camera its so frustrating. Ty
Hi Joe, sorry, just seen your comment. TBH I dont know if the Canon will run any kind of Auto exposure mode in ISO or Iris. There is a button near the ND wheel which you can press which will reset the aperture 'Push auto Iris' which is very handy for a new set up but will need to be pressed next time you reframe or change the angle. As far as the noise is concerned it depends what you are using the camera for. For all my students the sound from the onboard mic is never uses as they are either running a better mic into the XLR inputs on the top handle or recording dual system and only using the onboard mic (warts and all ) for sync purposes . Here is a link to a post about getting correct exposure manually on the C100 or similar. Best Fred www.cuvideoedit.com/canon-c100-exposure.php
Frederick Reed I appreciate this. Do you ever teach an online course for beginners on just this camera? Or could I play you to do a one on one. I’m about ready to just get rid of it.
Joe. Tell me a bit about what you want to film with your camera. Is it the first camera with masses of manual controls you have used ? I dont do one to ones (unless you study at BathSpa University but I am sure we can find some other on line tutorials here that can help you out.
Frederick Reed honestly I wanted to make small “run and gun” style mini doc that look somewhat professional. The C 100 was recommended to me at B&H in NYC so I broke down and bought it. But it’s been more then a challenge. I just kinda wanted to follow ppl around getting interviews and b roll but every time I seems to move this camera has issues with light or something causing me to have to stop and mess with a dial or something. I really just need a “here’s how this particular camera works” one on one. Otherwise I’m going to sell it. I hate that I spent all this money and because of the frustration level it’s just sitting there like a 3500 paper weight because I can’t seem to use it properly. I appreciate any help. Thank You
@@josephllawson Joe, because the C100 is a mostly manual camera, to go 'Run and gun' is going to take a degree of confidence . If you are still learning the camera and how to control focus and exposure, you are are going to struggle (at least at the start) with getting what you need. B and H were correct in that using a camera like this you can get really nice pro images if you know what you are after and how to get it. If you want to make a go of it, here is another tutorial on how to set it up. Make sure you use the top handle for better sound. Select auto focus on the lens, then every time you set up a new shot, press the "push focus' and 'Auto iris' buttons to get them sharp and approx exposed. Also I would shoot everything on the WDR picture profile as Standard looks awful. ua-cam.com/video/cldC-mh-X14/v-deo.html.
If this is not for you however you need to change camera to something with full auto like the Sony PXw x70 which I have made a film for.
ua-cam.com/video/oHytL4rJXg0/v-deo.html
This is half the size, has full auto and full manual settings and looks great, though not as 'Cinematic' as the Canon as it has a smaller sensor giving it different focus characteristics. As its an old camera now a 2nd hand one would be cheap and a new one comes with 4 K which is an improvement on the C100. All the best and good luck.
Please what is the name of the rig
Hi David, its one of these from Redrock. Plus much cheaper FF and bars probably from Amazon. The Mattbox is decent and from from Vocus. shop.redrockmicro.com/product/ultracage-cinema-eos-mkii/