I've got the exact pump set at 260ft I left 3 ft of factory wire added 10 gauge all the way up to control box plugged it into my generator it takes about 24 seconds to fill up a 5-gallon coming out of 1 inch PEX
That's my plan. Going in the lake up here in Canada. I ordered this pump before I found your video. Website I ordered from never mentioned a built in check valve. Great vid. Thanks for the reply!
Worst case scenario, you drill a 1/16"-1/8" hole in the pipe about 1ft from the pump. Yes it'll leak out during use, but not terribly . But every time you cut it off, it'll drain back. Please invest in a floating lake light (it only turns on if voltage is present in the water) if kids swim in that area it's a must for safety. & if the dock is aluminum, put in a ground rod near the dock & ground it! Last one I fixed was 115v & the wire broke, if I touched the dock & the water I got a shock. So safety is #1
The head pressure from the static water in the casing/bore hole provides for higher pump pressure output. You are testing it at essentially atmospheric pressure, 14 lbs. With a 6" casing and 200' of water above the pump has a pump inlet pressure much higher resulting in increased pump discharge pressure. 🙂
You are awesome my friend! Thanks so much for the heads up! We bought this pump a year ago, and put it in a hundred foot well, and have the power supply another 200 feet away. Needless to say, we have had some issues with melting wires and blowing fuses in the box! Any tips you might have would be very appreciated! Take care and thanks again!
Well, I'm gonna take a chance on their one horse models, after seeing this. I've only got an approximately thirty foot well, so that should be more than enough. I was kind of afraid of the brand because of the low price, but it appears there's not much reason to be, from this. Thanks, I'd been looking for reviews, and so far you've done one of two of several I was looking at. Thumbs up, and subscribed the other day when I watched the Halmark review. Thanks for what you do.
H20 mechanic as an electrician for the great price of that well pump don't splice the feed wires out side the pump, if you're going to void the warranty then do it right. Open the top of the pump and install the 10/3 romex directly into the pump. If you splice wire to the 16 gauge existing wire you're still running the pump on 16 GA wire. Replace the entire wire by going directly into the pump with 12/3 or 10/3 wire then it's done correctly. Just a little advise. Using that rubberized electrical tape is not code I'm sorry, not to tell you what to do. But you need water tight approved romex splice kits, more expensive but the correct way to splice in moist or wet conditions. Just a viewer Jerry
You gherkin, this kid is a pro and he's been installing well motors with his father for over ten years not to mention his father's experience, if he uses rubber tape I'm fine with it.
What you say makes some sense but you are forgetting an important variable. Temperature of the 16 ga. wire. It is submerged in water with temps in the 5-8C range (40-46F). That changes the actual real life ampacity bigtime. Most insulation is rated beginning at 60C and up.
H2O mechanic is correct, you replace the wire with a higher gauge to avoid a voltage drop when drawing over an extended distance with 16ga wire. Using 12ga over 99% of the distance solves the voltage drop issue. the 2-3' of 16 ga at the pump will not affect the voltage. Whether that voids the warranty is a question for the manufacturer.
I can tell you exactly how long the pump will last. Three bedroom two and a half bath with four people 2 1/2 to 3 years. At 100 ft they flow 10 to 12 gallons a minute. The last 16 years we have went through several. You want a solid pump to the last you 20 years get ready to pay 3 to 6000 dollars. I would not recommend one of these pumps if you're deeper than 200 ft as water delivery is bare minimal
Yep, don’t screw around and just buy a grundfos. Absolutely get what you pay for. Had a grundfos replaced recently after nearly 30 years and it actually still ran fine. Turns out it outlasted the galvanized drop pipe, which was full of holes and causing all the issues.
I find myself wondering whether the future might be simple 3 wire pumps connected to a VFD controlled by a continues pressure sense. Put the electronics in the pump house and have the ability to keep the tank pressure in a relatively narrow range.
I just ordered the 1.5HP 115v version of this. The plan is to drop it in my moms areator so she can get better pressure. The 1/2hp Meyers can't go over 50 PSI.
Oh also for every 100' you voltage and amperage, 12 GA is good for 20 Amp at 100' down your only going to get 15 Amp. At 200' down your getting 10 amps. So to get 15 amps. use 10 GA wire which is good for 30 amps. Fuse it with a 20 Amp breaker and at 200 ' you should get the required 15 amps. Jerry
I've got their 2 wire version of this pump and it seems decent. The 1.5" outlet on the top was kind of annoying but it seems to be pumping great at 73' in my well.
@@h2omechanic had mine for about 4 months now. I replaced a windmill pump with this vevor pump at my hunting property so its not heavily used. I'll report back here if it dies.
Good video. I just unpacked the similar pump and found out that the 'brass-fitting' on top and in the middle are just brass-colored painted steel! This is a poor alternative to the right material...You will get corrosion by connecting to a brass fitting.
I PURCHASED A MODEL 4SSM5/8 60HZ 1.5 HP 37GPM that worked about 6 months and started kicking reset. after a couple tries, it then kicked breaker in electrical box. I have looked everywhere I could think of and found quite a few control boxes for VEVOR submergible pumps but not one for mine. Please help if you could tell me where to find one. ThankYou
Assuming you set the pump at 240ft, will you still have enough pressure to make a 40-60psi pressure switch to turn off? Or will you have very little pressure by the time the water gets to the surface since it takes 1/2 a psi per foot?
Could you please show and explain what that was in the top of it? I just got one and I’m not sure if I need to return it. Is there a white piece that is just setting in the top of it? Or is it attached to something?
Do you have a video showing how to rewire one of these pumps that has under sized wires attached to it? I bought one of these vervor pumps with the 18 gauge wire already attached and I need to update it to 12 gauge (2hp) and wire it for 240v.
I love your videos!!! I would of never pulled this well with out the info you have shared. I am trying to redo a well from i think the 40s. Its in south mississippi and was an air injection well. 4 inch metal casing un known depth, 220 ft of 2 inch galvinized pipe with 200 ft of 3/4 inch galvinzed pipe inside the 2 inch to deliver the air down to lift the water. They stoped using it in the 60s due to iron content. I think the airlift was oxidizing the iron causing it to drop out and it was causing major issues with plumbing. I have pulled the pipe and the static water level appears to be 100ft. I would like to try a submersible well pump at 220ft on black role pipe. Do you have recommendations on the pump. Id of casing is 3.75 i have not tested the water but plan to possible pump to a holding tank to oxidize and settle out iron prior to a filter system. Any recs are greatly appreciated. I dont know how many airlift wells are out there.
Air lifts are a crazy but cool way of accessing water, I still see Amish locals use that tech. But for you I'd recommend a Grundfos SQ290 3" pump. Set it down around 150-170ft & then I'd prefer a heavy chlorine treatment on the well for a day & then pump out/flush the well of all that iron that's down there. I have pumps on my website in the video description box & videos on sanitizing the well . I'd recommend following that guide to help against the iron
Given your max achieved pressure of 124PSI, how do you figure the usable depth is 250 ft? Looks like a decent pump, but with those numbers you're just getting to grade, right?
So it takes 45psi to lift water 100ft. If the water level in the well gets drawn down to 250ft, that around 115psi of head pressure, plus the 60psi operating pressure in the house. Thats 175psi needed to satisfy the switch and shut off the pump. More top of the line pump can build over 200-215psi on the same test method.
If you still have one of these on hand could you possibly send me a few pictures of the control box. I received one of these pumps from a discount store and it didn't come with the box and vevor doesn't sell it separately. I'm sure I can build my own I just don't know the specs on the capacitor and whatever else may be in the box. Thank you
Amps never climbed above 13.8 under full load. Performed well for a budget friendly pump. My only concern is the oil filled motor & its longevity in normal conditions. Great for irrigation installation in a lake or pond or for camping since a small generator can run it. Ill be testing Franklin and Grundfos pumps next time. That Video will be up In a few weeks
i bought the 2hp version @ 220v , in a 80 ft well. first pump impellers broke apart in 2 months. Im now on 2nd pump within 3 months. This is running it on a 40 60 pressure switch and a 30 gallon pressure rank. my wires was only 3ft long from the pump, I ran no# 12 from pump to switch. no problems there. Just this second pump jumps 6 inches out of the well head when it turns off. I had to tie it down. any thoughts on this problem?
Do you calculate your voltage drop to size conductors, or you have done so many, you just know what you are going to use? Do you size conductors based on not burning up the pump, of based on NEC suggestions? Do you consider the distance from well head to the power source conductor size in your calculations?
Thanks! It's the Perks of Being a 3rd Generation Driller. Took 38 years of hard work, but the dream was finally reached! Now it's my responsibility to keep it up and running.
hp rating for Chinese pump is different. they take the actual wattage used / 746 watt per hp. American hp watt rating is only half of actual wattage used. so this would be a .75 hp US equivalent.
This has got me curious if a 3000W "solar generator" inverter unit would handle the inrush current. Got a true 1.5hp 115VAC hydraulic motor on a Swisher LS22E wired in its default 115V configuration that won't start from the Bluetti AC300 solar generator inverter and a 1hp Drumond 115VAC shallow well pump that was fine starting from the same inverter unit. Did you happen to measure the peak inrush current on this unit?
Update: Yep, initial testing confirms the AC300 handles the VEVOR 4SSM5/8-1 startup load dry and with restricted flow 3/4-in garden hose. I was confused about the wiring diagram until I realized the letter codes are part of the control box as a raised emboss in the injection molding. On the control box as received there was a lethal voltage contained in the capacitor, which you will need to discharge somehow for safety; normally the impedance of the motor windings will create a path for the capacitor to discharge when the motor is not powered. I'm afraid of the grounding path in this combination which has been questionable (at best) in past experiences with the Bluetti AC300.
It's slowly caving in unfortunately. Normally this is due to the casing not being installed deep enough into competent rock, or the driller didn't get it seated correct during the drilling process. Either he was a new / cheap driller, or he ran into a really bad/tough formation. The well needs to be blown clean by a drilling rig & then a screen casing installed.
Mine didn’t arrive with a control box. The company sent me $45 back rather than a control box. You can’t buy a control box separately from vevor. I have struggled to build a 110v control box out of a 220v control box.
Idk what to tell you... they probably sent you a return pump. There's literally no info in my control box to go off of. Remember, if its not a 3 wire pump, it doesn't require a control box.
It just depends on what power is accessible to you. But the 240v is likely better long term. These are $200 pumps using a 1960s design (that's why it is cheaper) Modern pumps are $700-1000 & will last much longer
I have the 230 volt 1.5 hp pump but it only came with one hot wire one neutral wire and ground wire. I don’t know how to hook this up to my 230 volt pressure switch with only one hot wire. I don’t think I can use the neutral as a hot wire? Please help Thank you Robin
Ok so it has a Ground wire & 2 other wires. That means it's a 2 wire pump, there's no way to wire it backwards or wrong. You simply hook the wires to the pressure switch and feed the switch 240v of power & itll run.
I have that pump,except it is 2hp, it works great when hooked up to a generator but as soon as I hook it up to the house breaker the controller trips after 6 seconds. What could it be??
@@h2omechanic thanks we just moved in our home it has an old style pump and I'm looking to replace it with this style. I pulled out about 30ft of pipes what voltage do you recommend 115v or 230v I'm currently looking at the Vevor 230v 2hp do you think this is good enough or should I get more HP and go for the 3hp model. We will only be using this well for irrigation, reason I ask about the voltage is because the current electrical system that lead to the pump was removed and I will be running fresh lines but was told 240v was better so I haven't done this yet Thanks again
We just moved in our home it has an old style pump and I'm looking to replace it with this style. I pulled out about 30ft of pipes what voltage do you recommend 115v or 230v I'm currently looking at the Vevor 230v 2hp do you think this is good enough or should I get more HP and go for the 3hp model. We will only be using this well for irrigation, reason I ask about the voltage is because the current electrical system that lead to the pump was removed and I will be running fresh lines but was told 240v was better so I haven't done this yet, the distance from well to electrical panel is about 20ft I'm guessing pump will not be more than 45ft deep
@PeteyPablo your so close to your panel box that 115v would be just fine, if its for irrigation, id recommend this exact pump to be honest. No need to go crazy big on the HP. This pump has amazing flow rate! I can't speak on long-term use, but its a fraction of the cost of a big brand pump. If your current well breaker is a single pole 115v then buy a 115v pump. If you current well breaker is a Double pole 240v, then buy the 240v Pump. That keeps it simple.
@@h2omechanic I will be running new power to the pump as when we bought the house the cleaning crew toredown a detached room where all the wiring passed through luckily they didn't have a major accident other that breakers tripping it shorted out my electrical in my detached garage as well so I will be running fresh lines to the garage and will be adding a subpanel so 115v or 230v will be available if wanted
Never buy a pump without the pump pressure curve for that particular pump. I would suggest you take an engineering class on pump theory. And yes that is a "Deep Well" pump. Deep Well Submersible Pumps are designed to fit down narrow water wells below 50ft. Of well water elevation after pump draw down. Each well pump curve will need to be matched to its specific well mechanics. This particular "Deep Well Pump" looks like it's designed for the 50 to 100 foot range to be determine by the Well Engineer.
@@cygnus1965 • Thanks for the reply but I went to my local hardware store and bought the 800$ dollar pump unfortunately. My house didn’t have water so I had to buy what I could get at the time, the budget pump would have been a lot cheaper for sure but with a house full of kids I kind of needed my water running as soon as possible. I do appreciate the help but I probably wont need another pump for 15 or 20 years, LoL.
3 wire pumps require the control box. If you buy a "2 wire" pump that's 110v you can wire that without the box. Just do yourself a favor and don't buy a pump that's 20+gpm. Try to find a 10gpm pump!
We are replacing a 1 1/2 hp submersible pump in a well that is 35 feet deep. I’m interested in using these Vivor. What size pump do you recommend? The pump you reviewed was 1 1/2 hp. Do you recommend using a smaller size pump. If so what size?
That depends on what voltage your current system is. Also what are you using the well for? Household use? The 1.5hp is best for irrigation needs. Typically a home uses a 3/4hp
The pump will be for home use, has 110 volt, for a well 33 feet deep. Up to now there has been a 1/2 hp well. Water use is limited, it bring for a small mobile home.
Hello would this pump fit down a 2" well casing, what is the outside diameter of it? Do you know if they make a pump to fit down a 2" well casing as I would like to upgrade to a submersible pump rather then an above ground jet pump. Where are you located? Can you help me with my well problem.
Leaving the wire like that coiled up will overheat the wire. It should have been unrolled like it were in the well. Some of the amp draw was for the coiled up wire.
Not unless it's 100 percent efficient. 1.5hp is what I'd expect for a motor drawing those amps at 120v, if the motor is 80% efficient. That's what submersible pump motors typically run efficiency wise
@@texasfrontiersman8245 precisely. Motor efficiency, line losses, heat losses, etc... Also, the control box has losses as well. Nothing humans have built converts energy into work at 100%.
If it's a DC motor. For an AC motor power factor and efficiency plays a role in it. So just taking a guess at the motor's power factor and efficiency. 120v x 12 amps x 0.9 efficiency x 0.86 pf ÷ 746 = 1.4940 HP.
I have a 1/2 hp Vevor {submersible well pump} the wire coming out of the pump are brown, blue. yellow with black stripe, which is ground, which is starter pump wire, which is running wirer? help, please, reason is I need to add wire to the four foot of wire that comes out of the pump any info would help,
Excellent work, very informative!!! Thank you for posting!!!
I've got the exact pump set at 260ft I left 3 ft of factory wire added 10 gauge all the way up to control box plugged it into my generator it takes about 24 seconds to fill up a 5-gallon coming out of 1 inch PEX
🎉like your video very understanding
very helpful
Thank you for the info, just what I was looking for a low use, remote location
That's my plan. Going in the lake up here in Canada. I ordered this pump before I found your video. Website I ordered from never mentioned a built in check valve. Great vid. Thanks for the reply!
Worst case scenario, you drill a 1/16"-1/8" hole in the pipe about 1ft from the pump. Yes it'll leak out during use, but not terribly . But every time you cut it off, it'll drain back.
Please invest in a floating lake light (it only turns on if voltage is present in the water) if kids swim in that area it's a must for safety. & if the dock is aluminum, put in a ground rod near the dock & ground it! Last one I fixed was 115v & the wire broke, if I touched the dock & the water I got a shock. So safety is #1
The head pressure from the static water in the casing/bore hole provides for higher pump pressure output. You are testing it at essentially atmospheric pressure, 14 lbs. With a 6" casing and 200' of water above the pump has a pump inlet pressure much higher resulting in increased pump discharge pressure. 🙂
How to order pump whats ph no
You are awesome my friend! Thanks so much for the heads up! We bought this pump a year ago, and put it in a hundred foot well, and have the power supply another 200 feet away. Needless to say, we have had some issues with melting wires and blowing fuses in the box! Any tips you might have would be very appreciated! Take care and thanks again!
Run thicker gauge wire, if it's getting hot. You're pushing too much current through it.
Well, I'm gonna take a chance on their one horse models, after seeing this. I've only got an approximately thirty foot well, so that should be more than enough. I was kind of afraid of the brand because of the low price, but it appears there's not much reason to be, from this. Thanks, I'd been looking for reviews, and so far you've done one of two of several I was looking at. Thumbs up, and subscribed the other day when I watched the Halmark review. Thanks for what you do.
H20 mechanic as an electrician for the great price of that well pump don't splice the feed wires out side the pump, if you're going to void the warranty then do it right. Open the top of the pump and install the 10/3 romex directly into the pump. If you splice wire to the 16 gauge existing wire you're still running the pump on 16 GA wire. Replace the entire wire by going directly into the pump with 12/3 or 10/3 wire then it's done correctly. Just a little advise. Using that rubberized electrical tape is not code I'm sorry, not to tell you what to do. But you need water tight approved romex splice kits, more expensive but the correct way to splice in moist or wet conditions. Just a viewer Jerry
romex isnt rated for wet/damp locations. You talking about UF cable?
Hey Jerry, could you advise me on where one might find ‘watertight Romex splice kits’?!
You gherkin, this kid is a pro and he's been installing well motors with his father for over ten years not to mention his father's experience, if he uses rubber tape I'm fine with it.
What you say makes some sense but you are forgetting an important variable. Temperature of the 16 ga. wire. It is submerged in water with temps in the 5-8C range (40-46F). That changes the actual real life ampacity bigtime. Most insulation is rated beginning at 60C and up.
H2O mechanic is correct, you replace the wire with a higher gauge to avoid a voltage drop when drawing over an extended distance with 16ga wire. Using 12ga over 99% of the distance solves the voltage drop issue. the 2-3' of 16 ga at the pump will not affect the voltage. Whether that voids the warranty is a question for the manufacturer.
Great review good information thanks
I had the 240v version of this pump and it was hopeless. I had to remove the overtemp on it as it constantly tripped for no reason
I can tell you exactly how long the pump will last. Three bedroom two and a half bath with four people 2 1/2 to 3 years. At 100 ft they flow 10 to 12 gallons a minute. The last 16 years we have went through several. You want a solid pump to the last you 20 years get ready to pay 3 to 6000 dollars. I would not recommend one of these pumps if you're deeper than 200 ft as water delivery is bare minimal
Yep, don’t screw around and just buy a grundfos. Absolutely get what you pay for. Had a grundfos replaced recently after nearly 30 years and it actually still ran fine. Turns out it outlasted the galvanized drop pipe, which was full of holes and causing all the issues.
Great video thank you
Some good info but never run floating stack bore pumps bellow stated curve and motor leeds provided are normaly intended to be submerged, cheers
I find myself wondering whether the future might be simple 3 wire pumps connected to a VFD controlled by a continues pressure sense. Put the electronics in the pump house and have the ability to keep the tank pressure in a relatively narrow range.
When you have a rain day can you do tests on your regular pumps for comparison purposes pls.
I just ordered the 1.5HP 115v version of this. The plan is to drop it in my moms areator so she can get better pressure. The 1/2hp Meyers can't go over 50 PSI.
How on earth is 115v going to supply a full 1.5hp when every other 115v option is only rated for 1/2hp?
Oh also for every 100' you voltage and amperage, 12 GA is good for 20 Amp at 100' down your only going to get 15 Amp. At 200' down your getting 10 amps. So to get 15 amps. use 10 GA wire which is good for 30 amps. Fuse it with a 20 Amp breaker and at 200 ' you should get the required 15 amps. Jerry
I've got their 2 wire version of this pump and it seems decent. The 1.5" outlet on the top was kind of annoying but it seems to be pumping great at 73' in my well.
I agree. Still a good pump for a budget. I'm curious about life span on it.
@@h2omechanic had mine for about 4 months now. I replaced a windmill pump with this vevor pump at my hunting property so its not heavily used. I'll report back here if it dies.
@@kylebryan1 ill be putting this one in a 1920s copper mine shaft to pump it out (put it to a big test). Just for fun.
@@kylebryan1 what ga wire u use to splice?
@@Eastbaypisces I brought the wire it came with all the way up to the pressure switch. Then went 12/2 up to the breaker panel.
Very nice , can I use it for a sump pump
Good video.
I just unpacked the similar pump and found out that the 'brass-fitting' on top and in the middle are just brass-colored painted steel!
This is a poor alternative to the right material...You will get corrosion by connecting to a brass fitting.
Yep brass paint. And the connection fitting they sent me with the pump desentergrated in 3 months. Must have been made out of a very poorly metal.
capacitor blew in the first of two I bought... the 2nd one has been running good for 3 months now
Can show how it's wired to control box and what model the control box is
I PURCHASED A MODEL 4SSM5/8 60HZ 1.5 HP 37GPM that worked about 6 months and started kicking reset. after a couple tries, it then kicked breaker in electrical box. I have looked everywhere I could think of and found quite a few control boxes for VEVOR submergible pumps but not one for mine. Please help if you could tell me where to find one. ThankYou
Assuming you set the pump at 240ft, will you still have enough pressure to make a 40-60psi pressure switch to turn off? Or will you have very little pressure by the time the water gets to the surface since it takes 1/2 a psi per foot?
Could you please show and explain what that was in the top of it? I just got one and I’m not sure if I need to return it. Is there a white piece that is just setting in the top of it? Or is it attached to something?
Do you have a video showing how to rewire one of these pumps that has under sized wires attached to it? I bought one of these vervor pumps with the 18 gauge wire already attached and I need to update it to 12 gauge (2hp) and wire it for 240v.
Can this be the reason that my pump shuts off after 10 minutes and if I start it again goes on for 4 more minutes and so on.Shall I change the wires?
Hi, that pump really measure 4 inches like the description say or a little bit less?
I love your videos!!! I would of never pulled this well with out the info you have shared. I am trying to redo a well from i think the 40s. Its in south mississippi and was an air injection well. 4 inch metal casing un known depth, 220 ft of 2 inch galvinized pipe with 200 ft of 3/4 inch galvinzed pipe inside the 2 inch to deliver the air down to lift the water. They stoped using it in the 60s due to iron content. I think the airlift was oxidizing the iron causing it to drop out and it was causing major issues with plumbing. I have pulled the pipe and the static water level appears to be 100ft. I would like to try a submersible well pump at 220ft on black role pipe. Do you have recommendations on the pump. Id of casing is 3.75 i have not tested the water but plan to possible pump to a holding tank to oxidize and settle out iron prior to a filter system. Any recs are greatly appreciated. I dont know how many airlift wells are out there.
Air lifts are a crazy but cool way of accessing water, I still see Amish locals use that tech.
But for you I'd recommend a Grundfos SQ290 3" pump. Set it down around 150-170ft & then I'd prefer a heavy chlorine treatment on the well for a day & then pump out/flush the well of all that iron that's down there. I have pumps on my website in the video description box & videos on sanitizing the well . I'd recommend following that guide to help against the iron
Given your max achieved pressure of 124PSI, how do you figure the usable depth is 250 ft? Looks like a decent pump, but with those numbers you're just getting to grade, right?
So it takes 45psi to lift water 100ft. If the water level in the well gets drawn down to 250ft, that around 115psi of head pressure, plus the 60psi operating pressure in the house. Thats 175psi needed to satisfy the switch and shut off the pump.
More top of the line pump can build over 200-215psi on the same test method.
Thanks for the info. Too bad it's a 3 wire. I need a 2 wire pump.
does the control box monitor for no load scenario where if there’s no water the pump automatically shut off due to no load
If you still have one of these on hand could you possibly send me a few pictures of the control box. I received one of these pumps from a discount store and it didn't come with the box and vevor doesn't sell it separately. I'm sure I can build my own I just don't know the specs on the capacitor and whatever else may be in the box.
Thank you
Does your vevor pump have 3 wires or 4 wires coming out of it?
@@h2omechanic it's a 4 wire 1.5hp 115v
@Jonathon Cain search online for a well pump control box online with those specs & itll fire it.
Should've shown amps at the 120 psi. How about full load and service factor amps to see how it compares to Franklin or Pentair.
Amps never climbed above 13.8 under full load. Performed well for a budget friendly pump. My only concern is the oil filled motor & its longevity in normal conditions. Great for irrigation installation in a lake or pond or for camping since a small generator can run it. Ill be testing Franklin and Grundfos pumps next time. That Video will be up In a few weeks
i bought the 2hp version @ 220v , in a 80 ft well. first pump impellers broke apart in 2 months. Im now on 2nd pump within 3 months. This is running it on a 40 60 pressure switch and a 30 gallon pressure rank. my wires was only 3ft long from the pump, I ran no# 12 from pump to switch. no problems there. Just this second pump jumps 6 inches out of the well head when it turns off. I had to tie it down. any thoughts on this problem?
I'm having trouble getting mine to turn on it only hums
Either your wires are hooked up wrong or the pump stack is stuck. Pull the pump and see if you can turn the shaft input by hand.
Site says pump was discontinued...
Do you calculate your voltage drop to size conductors, or you have done so many, you just know what you are going to use? Do you size conductors based on not burning up the pump, of based on NEC suggestions? Do you consider the distance from well head to the power source conductor size in your calculations?
u have a nice shop! :)
Thanks! It's the Perks of Being a 3rd Generation Driller. Took 38 years of hard work, but the dream was finally reached! Now it's my responsibility to keep it up and running.
@@h2omechanic that’s so awesome tho haha
I'm curious if this would be a good option for me? How best to decide which pump?
120v x 12 amps = 1440 watts / 746 watts per HP = 1.93 HP so it may be under rated .
Take Power factor into account.
1/2hp, 240v pump link goes directly to a Goulds 10HS05422C 4" Submersible Water Well Pump, 10 GPM, 1/2 HP, 230 V, 2 Wire on Amazon... bad link?
hp rating for Chinese pump is different. they take the actual wattage used / 746 watt per hp. American hp watt rating is only half of actual wattage used. so this would be a .75 hp US equivalent.
What is that box doing?
This has got me curious if a 3000W "solar generator" inverter unit would handle the inrush current. Got a true 1.5hp 115VAC hydraulic motor on a Swisher LS22E wired in its default 115V configuration that won't start from the Bluetti AC300 solar generator inverter and a 1hp Drumond 115VAC shallow well pump that was fine starting from the same inverter unit. Did you happen to measure the peak inrush current on this unit?
Update: Yep, initial testing confirms the AC300 handles the VEVOR 4SSM5/8-1 startup load dry and with restricted flow 3/4-in garden hose. I was confused about the wiring diagram until I realized the letter codes are part of the control box as a raised emboss in the injection molding. On the control box as received there was a lethal voltage contained in the capacitor, which you will need to discharge somehow for safety; normally the impedance of the motor windings will create a path for the capacitor to discharge when the motor is not powered. I'm afraid of the grounding path in this combination which has been questionable (at best) in past experiences with the Bluetti AC300.
I keep getting alot of gravel and rust my well was 260 now pump at 180 still gravel
It's slowly caving in unfortunately. Normally this is due to the casing not being installed deep enough into competent rock, or the driller didn't get it seated correct during the drilling process.
Either he was a new / cheap driller, or he ran into a really bad/tough formation.
The well needs to be blown clean by a drilling rig & then a screen casing installed.
Mine didn’t arrive with a control box. The company sent me $45 back rather than a control box. You can’t buy a control box separately from vevor. I have struggled to build a 110v control box out of a 220v control box.
Idk what to tell you... they probably sent you a return pump. There's literally no info in my control box to go off of. Remember, if its not a 3 wire pump, it doesn't require a control box.
Do you think 120v pumps are worth having? Seems like 240 is much better for these
It just depends on what power is accessible to you.
But the 240v is likely better long term. These are $200 pumps using a 1960s design (that's why it is cheaper)
Modern pumps are $700-1000 & will last much longer
If the internal check valve were to be removed(if possible) would it drain back to the well water level? Emptying the water line above water level.
Exactly right.
That's what I do if the pump gets put in a lake or pond for irrigation. Itll always drain back to help prevent freezing
when putting into well, how far from botton should pump be ?
my well is 180 ft. deep, static is 30ft. and Franklin Electric pump at 100 ft.
Should be about 20ft of the bottom
bought two...lets see one as a spare
I have the 230 volt 1.5 hp pump but it only came with one hot wire one neutral wire and ground wire. I don’t know how to hook this up to my 230 volt pressure switch with only one hot wire. I don’t think I can use the neutral as a hot wire? Please help
Thank you
Robin
Ok so it has a Ground wire & 2 other wires. That means it's a 2 wire pump, there's no way to wire it backwards or wrong. You simply hook the wires to the pressure switch and feed the switch 240v of power & itll run.
@@h2omechanic but the pump states the white wire is neutral. You think Chinese made a mistake on labeling the wires?
@@h2omechanic do you think neutral was labeled wrong? Should have been labeled as the other half of 230 volts
I have that pump,except it is 2hp, it works great when hooked up to a generator but as soon as I hook it up to the house breaker the controller trips after 6 seconds. What could it be??
Can this be used to supply a house with water with a pressure tank and points system?
Not recommended for long term use but yes it's capable. Up to 150ft deep
Can I put an end on this wire and plug it into a regular 120v outlet?
A 3 wire pump must go thru the control box first, then any power source from there
I bought this same pump with control box. What size wire do I need to run 300ft 12/3 or 10/3 ?
115v would need 10-3
You recomend the vevor 3hp for a 150 deep well?
How many amps did it increase with the pump running at pressure?
Technically the amp draw should decrease. I'd be interested to know what it changed to as well.
What's the control box used for should I or not buy one with control box
The control box is basically a starter box. (3wire)
A 2 wire pump has everything built into the pump. That's the only difference.
@@h2omechanic thanks we just moved in our home it has an old style pump and I'm looking to replace it with this style. I pulled out about 30ft of pipes what voltage do you recommend 115v or 230v I'm currently looking at the Vevor 230v 2hp do you think this is good enough or should I get more HP and go for the 3hp model. We will only be using this well for irrigation, reason I ask about the voltage is because the current electrical system that lead to the pump was removed and I will be running fresh lines but was told 240v was better so I haven't done this yet
Thanks again
We just moved in our home it has an old style pump and I'm looking to replace it with this style. I pulled out about 30ft of pipes what voltage do you recommend 115v or 230v I'm currently looking at the Vevor 230v 2hp do you think this is good enough or should I get more HP and go for the 3hp model. We will only be using this well for irrigation, reason I ask about the voltage is because the current electrical system that lead to the pump was removed and I will be running fresh lines but was told 240v was better so I haven't done this yet, the distance from well to electrical panel is about 20ft I'm guessing pump will not be more than 45ft deep
@PeteyPablo your so close to your panel box that 115v would be just fine, if its for irrigation, id recommend this exact pump to be honest. No need to go crazy big on the HP. This pump has amazing flow rate! I can't speak on long-term use, but its a fraction of the cost of a big brand pump.
If your current well breaker is a single pole 115v then buy a 115v pump.
If you current well breaker is a Double pole 240v, then buy the 240v Pump.
That keeps it simple.
@@h2omechanic I will be running new power to the pump as when we bought the house the cleaning crew toredown a detached room where all the wiring passed through luckily they didn't have a major accident other that breakers tripping it shorted out my electrical in my detached garage as well so I will be running fresh lines to the garage and will be adding a subpanel so 115v or 230v will be available if wanted
Man,I wouldn't use that Chinese thing in a deep well.Unless you don't mind pulling it back out..
It's what we use for pump testing a well, not something I'd recommend for long term use.
Never buy a pump without the pump pressure curve for that particular pump. I would suggest you take an engineering class on pump theory. And yes that is a "Deep Well" pump. Deep Well Submersible Pumps are designed to fit down narrow water wells below 50ft. Of well water elevation after pump draw down. Each well pump curve will need to be matched to its specific well mechanics. This particular "Deep Well Pump" looks like it's designed for the 50 to 100 foot range to be determine by the Well Engineer.
Sorry for the dumb question but can this pump be used to run a household with a 30 gallon cold water tank with a bladder?
Yes but you could
Probably get away with a smaller
One. How deep is the well or is it on a cistern.
@@cygnus1965 • Thanks for the reply but I went to my local hardware store and bought the 800$ dollar pump unfortunately.
My house didn’t have water so I had to buy what I could get at the time, the budget pump would have been a lot cheaper for sure but with a house full of kids I kind of needed my water running as soon as possible.
I do appreciate the help but I probably wont need another pump for 15 or 20 years, LoL.
help any one i want to buy one but i dont want to use the box can any one can tell what wire to use just for 110 volt ground and power
3 wire pumps require the control box. If you buy a "2 wire" pump that's 110v you can wire that without the box. Just do yourself a favor and don't buy a pump that's 20+gpm. Try to find a 10gpm pump!
We are replacing a 1 1/2 hp submersible pump in a well that is 35 feet deep. I’m interested in using these Vivor. What size pump do you recommend? The pump you reviewed was 1 1/2 hp. Do you recommend using a smaller size pump. If so what size?
That depends on what voltage your current system is.
Also what are you using the well for? Household use?
The 1.5hp is best for irrigation needs.
Typically a home uses a 3/4hp
The pump will be for home use, has 110 volt, for a well 33 feet deep. Up to now there has been a 1/2 hp well. Water use is limited, it bring for a small mobile home.
@Dan Augsburger just stick with a 1/2hp pump. 35ft is very shallow. No need for a big pump. But that being said, the pump I reviewed would work
Hello would this pump fit down a 2" well casing, what is the outside diameter of it? Do you know if they make a pump to fit down a 2" well casing as I would like to upgrade to a submersible pump rather then an above ground jet pump. Where are you located? Can you help me with my well problem.
What kind of Hose do you guys recommend I get for the single drop 1 1/4 ?
Always 1" 200-250 psi.
1.25" becomes too heavy.
1" is industry standard.
@@h2omechanic thanks never had to buy any is there a brand or type of hose I need to ask or look for?
Leaving the wire like that coiled up will overheat the wire. It should have been unrolled like it were in the well. Some of the amp draw was for the coiled up wire.
Did it come with the switch box?
Control box? Yes
120v x 12amps =1440 watts. 746 watts per hp. It's closer to a 2hp pump
Not unless it's 100 percent efficient. 1.5hp is what I'd expect for a motor drawing those amps at 120v, if the motor is 80% efficient. That's what submersible pump motors typically run efficiency wise
@@harescrambled so it's a 1.5hp pump that draws 2hp worth of electricity....
Yea lol....
@@texasfrontiersman8245 precisely. Motor efficiency, line losses, heat losses, etc... Also, the control box has losses as well. Nothing humans have built converts energy into work at 100%.
If it's a DC motor. For an AC motor power factor and efficiency plays a role in it. So just taking a guess at the motor's power factor and efficiency. 120v x 12 amps x 0.9 efficiency x 0.86 pf ÷ 746 = 1.4940 HP.
@@mforrest85 1.5hp is 9.3 amps. Why is your motor drawing 12 because it's 2hp.....
I’d say 16 isn’t good for 100’
පොම්පෙ ගලවන්නෙ කොහොමද
I have a 1/2 hp Vevor {submersible well pump} the wire coming out of the pump are brown, blue. yellow with black stripe, which is ground, which is starter pump wire, which is running wirer? help, please, reason is I need to add wire to the four foot of wire that comes out of the pump any info would help,
i got the same pump, NO INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS. normal pump has red, yellow and black wires, what do i do with brown/blue and yellow/green?
Fwiw,
Vevor doesn't manufacture. They are a seller of stuff primarily made in China.
Sort of like a Harbor Freight.
And it's Harbor freight quality... Chinese junk!
Maybe you need to purchase their products before commenting, I have and find them to be excellent
Too bad it's not a 3 inch pump
I want to throw this pump off the dock and run it off 200 feet of good quality extension cord. Waddya think? Tag me in the response
You'll need a #10 or #8 extension cord if you run it on 115v. But it'll work
Stay clear,,,they are chaep and nasty.. made of chocolate