tnnsman7 - they recommend to clean your new chain before use, to remove the original factory lube, which can barely be seen. Their lube is better than shimano original, apparently
You are correct J B! tnnsman7, you want to make sure all of the factory lube is off of the chain in order to provide as clean of a surface as possible for the wax to adhere. Wax does not like to bond to oil or lube, hence the in-depth chemical cleaning process illustrated. Therefore, a "dirty" chain, according to this video, is a chain with any amount of oil, grease, or non-paraffin wax lube.
I've read that Mineral Spirits can cause blood and bone cancers like leukemia and non-Hodgkin's lymphoma. Any alternatives you would suggest? I like having a clean chain, but I like not having leukemia even better.
Its not as thorough but mixing rubbing alcohol, dishsoap, and distilled white vinegar can be a good mix. Also consider using a combination of spray on and soak in degreasers. These will require more doses than what you see here.
I do find the previous comical posts very entertaining. Thanks for the laughs. With that said ... I was looking for exactly the information presented in this video! Anal as it may seem, I want to be thorough for the very first wax application to my oily and dirty chain. The only difference from the video suggestion is that I will begin with gasoline to clean the chain. Then I'll use the video's suggestions so as to remove the gasoline residue. So, I'll begin with a gasoline bath, then a mineral spirits (or acetone) bath, and then finally a denatured alcohol bath. After the chain is dry, it will be ready to apply the Molten wax for the first time. (some people clean chain with a sonic cleaner, but I cannot yet justify spending on one. I like this 'container' method, while using a quick disconnect (re-useable) chain link.)
an update: decided to use Diesel fuel to clean the chain, then use acetone to remove any residue, with no need to use the denatured alcohol as the acetone may leave less residue than the denatured alcohol. Chain is drying now, and am about to apply the molten wax. The wax is pretty hot at about 60deg C. I'll add the chain, move it around a bit in the crock pot, then turn down the heat so as to remove the chain when it cools down to 50 - 54 deg c.
@Garacha222 after using a solvent to clean the initial grease/ oil from the chain, acetone works great as a final rinse. The wax is fairly warm at 60˚C, but we do recommend reaching the temperature of 93˚C before removing the chain from the crockpot. Remember, the more swishing of the chain the better, you are just making sure that the wax reaches all moving parts of your chain inside and out.
@Rick Harker, you are correct. There is no rinsing step needed past the denatured alcohol/acetone rinse before dipping the chain in the pot of heated wax.
Depends on the degree of scientific rigour one would demand I would do a trial of 10 test runs each with and without funnel. Any splashing outside the jar rim counts as a "fail". From then it would be a simple matter to determine the p value to a cut off of +- 0.025 (let's be generous and allow two tails to your probability scenario) to a 95% confidence limit whether your skills should be deemed acceptable to the task. One should never take these issues too casually.
Makes sense, mineral spirits to clean, then alcohol to remove any residue, then apply wax. But how to ensure wax is really deep into rollers like the original factory lube? I guess I will look for your video on that....
@J B, you are correct. You can ensure that the wax fully penetrates the rollers and inner plates of the chain by swishing the chain thoroughly for at least 45 seconds within the wax (heated to the proper temperature of 200˚F/ 93˚C).
Hi Ellis, Thanks for your comment. We only recommend this chemical process to be repeated if you are prepping a racing chain for a big event. If you are simply rewaxing a training chain, then we recommend to just redip your chain in hot wax, swish, and hang to dry. This will both clean and lubricate an already waxed chain, but the small amount of dirt will remain in your slow cooker. Remember to change out the wax every 8 waxings or so in order to keep your wax cleaner and lasting longer between waxings.
if its a new chain with just the factory grease, how many changes of mineral spirits would I need? Is just one wash, letting it soak over night enough?
Thanks for the video. I have 2 questions. Can't methyl hydrate (pure methanol) be used instead of the denat alcohol? It's cheaper and is almost the same thing. Also, if I were to use gasoline as cleaner, would methanol or acetone be the best rinse?
I do it this way and it has shown great results. 1) Gasoline (leave it in there for 6-8 hours). 2) Degreaser (leave in there for 30 minutes), rinse w/ water after. 3) Mineral spirits (30 minutes).
I live in Southern California USA and mineral spirits is not available due to environmental concerns.What alternative do you recommend for the cleaner?
Turpentine, if that's available. Failing that you could probably use gasoline, which is still widely available in California despite environmental impact.
@CyberGolem, thanks for the question. An ultrasonic cleaner is a great tool for cleaning a chain properly. We made this video for those who don't have access to an ultra-sonic cleaner. Please see our ultra-sonic cleaning steps on our website here: moltenspeedwax.com/pages/ultrasonically-cleaning-your-chain
I'm having some trouble getting the right translation for mineral spirits, it translates both to a somewhat oily solvent and to a more aggressive de-greasing non-oily solvent. Since you use alcohol after my guess is the first one. To dutch I get results to both "terpentine" and "thinner" anyone can help me out here?
@Erik Joosten, if you can find "white spirits" that would be the closest product to mineral spirits. Please connect with us via email if you have trouble finding this product and we would be happy to help you find a product that works. Thanks!
The video misses an important step. If it is desirable to reuse the mineral spirits, then it should be filtered to remove the dirt it contains. Otherwise the chain is exposed to the dirt a second time. I'm a bit dubious about cleaning the chain unless it's actually dirty. What's the point? If you're using a correct mixture of paraffin and a lubricant like motor oil (I use SynLube), the chain won't pick up dirt if you're a roadie. OTOH, trail bikers will almost certainly need to clean the chain before lubing.
@Phil Houck, thanks for the comment. We recommend using fresh mineral spirits every time due to keeping your chain and wax clean and efficient. Dirty mineral spirits can be collected and stored as recommended by the manufacturer for later recycling at your local household hazardous chemical recycling plant. As mentioned above in another comment, if the chain has any trace of oil or grease it will pick up dirt. In the case of our video above, a dirty chain is simply just a factory greased chain that has not been installed on a bike. We recommend cleaning all of the grease or prior lube from the chain in order to provide a clean surface for the wax to adhere. One thing to mention, once you do clean the factory grease or existing oil from the chain, you are able to simply just re-dip your chain in wax after your initial waxing. This will both clean and re-lube your chain at the same time, but be sure to replace your wax after about 8 re-waxings so the wax doesn't get too dirty. A clean pot of wax and a clean chain equals more miles on each waxing, increased drivetrain efficiency, and less wear on each component of your drivetrain. Be sure to let us know if you have any more questions!
It's not a bad idea to reuse it if it isn't too dirty for your initial soak to remove the bulk of the gunk. You don't need perfectly clean spirits for that.
@somaRegroJ44, we do not recommend diesel fuel. Using any type of fuel can be very dangerous and we recommend mineral spirits instead. The reason why we recommend starting with a new chain when adopting the waxing technique is because the factory grease is much easier to remove than a previously oiled and ridden chain. Although, if that is what you prefer, then just make sure you take some more time to get your chains really clean so the wax can perform properly. Best of luck, and thanks for considering waxing.
Summary notes: Initial application (Day 1): Start with a stripped, bare metal chain Apply one drop per link of Silca Super Secret Let it cure for at least 4 hours (24 hours ideal) Second application (After first ride): Apply one drop per link of Silca Super Secret Let it cure overnight (at least 4 hours) Third application (After second ride): Apply one drop per link of Silca Super Secret Let it cure overnight (at least 4 hours) Regular maintenance: Reapply one layer of Silca Super Secret every 250-300 kilometers No need to strip the chain between these regular applications Full reset (Every 1,000-1,200 km): Strip the chain back to bare metal using boiling water If the chain is still on the bike: Use a kettle to pour boiling water onto the front of the chain ring while pedaling Collect the wax and dirt on a disposable paper towel If the chain is removed: Submerge the chain in boiling water Shake it off Start again from step 1 (Initial application)
@Cycling MBK, thanks for your comment. We just want to make sure we don't spill any chemicals on unwanted surfaces. You may not use a funnel if you have a steady hand :)
I am using methanol or methyl alcohol. Does the same job - no residue. Be very careful. Do not inhale! Not to mention drink. Rubbing alcohol works too but it is more expensive. Or is this forbade as well in CA?
it is not so much important to have super ultra hiper clean chain, i heat it up by inductive heater and in first pass with wax is cleanning by cloth and in second pass is just final waxing and if do this procedure every 100km chain can stand double at least
Hi Makan, thanks for your comment. It is very important with the initial cleaning to perform all of these steps in order to remove all of the factory grease from the inner workings of the chain. This is where the most friction is created, and if the grease is not properly removed, then the wax will not adhere to those essential parts resulting in an inefficient chain. On the other hand, if these steps are not performed properly, you may collect grease and dirt within your wax, therefore compromising the longevity and performance of the wax applied to your chain. Remember, a clean chain is a fast chain, and it will stay lubricated much longer if all of the initial factory grease is removed.
27 mineral spirit baths and 6 alcohol baths later and the chain is finally spotless. Cassette and jockey wheels spotless after 2 weeks of cleaning. Chain waxed and put on bicycle. Time saved in Time Trial = 3 seconds. Alternative: Fart twice on the way out and once on the way back. Time saved = 4 seconds
Bobby. This process is not for you. Some of us have the time, resources, fitness and competitive drive that make these marginal gains appealing. And that is OK. This isn't for everyone.
@R Terry, thanks for the comment. The reason why we do not recommend gasoline is because it is very flammable and leaves a residue on the chain that would inhibit the wax from adhering properly to the chain. A few baths of mineral spirits followed by denatured alcohol leaves the chain very clean and that way we can assure the wax will adhere properly and you will get the maximum life out of each waxing.
@@mspeedwax3964 I get that. You cant suggest it for liability reasons. But if some joe has only gas, be sure to rinse off thoroughly with denatured alcohol before you use Wax or "Squirt Lube"
@@mspeedwax3964 For sure, liability, lawyers and all that fun stuff. If gas is all you have be sure to rinse with the alcohol before you use wax or "Squirt Lube".
Have you priced new chains lately? A decent 11s chain is $25 or more. Some lightweight "race" chains are $100. Molten speed wax is not marketed to someone fixing a 7-speed cruiser with a rusty cassette.
If you have a cheap chain, perhaps this process is not what you are looking for. You may want to consider a simple two step process such as degrease and re-lube. Park tool makes a nice degreaser and clip-on tool for this. it only takes a minute. www.amazon.com/TOOL-CHAIN-CLEANER-CM-5-2-CYCLONE/dp/B007HDNOT2/ref=asc_df_B007HDNOT2/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312070810048&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=3466643665212447550&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9013457&hvtargid=pla-439913047609&psc=1
Everyone, thanks for your comments. @yoeuetuebee, you are correct. You want to make sure you remove the factory grease of a new chain before waxing. Wax does not adhere well to grease/ oil. In order to get the longest life out of each waxing and keep a very clean/ efficient drivetrain, you will want to clean all other oil-based lubricants from the chain.
Sadly one of the benefits that most are missing is the extended life of the chains and drive gear, people are seeing their chain life double and in some cases actually exceeding 15000 kilometers instead of 4000 kilometers.
Diameter of 11-10cm is big enough for comfortable work. Not too big so you dont have to use too much chemicals. And its better to use a lid, chemicals are volatile liquids. I recommend to leave chain soak in your preferable chemical over night.
what a music... I can't stop dancing!
I don't want to ride my bike anymore, I want to be a dancer now!
@Kirill, just imagine how much dancing was going on in our company while we were making this video.
This video should be watched at 2X speed.
That's the cleanest "dirty" chain I've ever seen.
tnnsman7 - they recommend to clean your new chain before use, to remove the original factory lube, which can barely be seen. Their lube is better than shimano original, apparently
You are correct J B! tnnsman7, you want to make sure all of the factory lube is off of the chain in order to provide as clean of a surface as possible for the wax to adhere. Wax does not like to bond to oil or lube, hence the in-depth chemical cleaning process illustrated. Therefore, a "dirty" chain, according to this video, is a chain with any amount of oil, grease, or non-paraffin wax lube.
I've read that Mineral Spirits can cause blood and bone cancers like leukemia and non-Hodgkin's lymphoma.
Any alternatives you would suggest?
I like having a clean chain, but I like not having leukemia even better.
Its not as thorough but mixing rubbing alcohol, dishsoap, and distilled white vinegar can be a good mix. Also consider using a combination of spray on and soak in degreasers.
These will require more doses than what you see here.
I do find the previous comical posts very entertaining. Thanks for the laughs.
With that said ... I was looking for exactly the information presented in this video!
Anal as it may seem, I want to be thorough for the very first wax application to my oily and dirty chain.
The only difference from the video suggestion is that I will begin with gasoline to clean the chain. Then I'll use the video's suggestions so as to remove the gasoline residue.
So, I'll begin with a gasoline bath,
then a mineral spirits (or acetone) bath,
and then finally a denatured alcohol bath.
After the chain is dry, it will be ready to apply the Molten wax for the first time.
(some people clean chain with a sonic cleaner, but I cannot yet justify spending on one.
I like this 'container' method, while using a quick disconnect (re-useable) chain link.)
an update: decided to use Diesel fuel to clean the chain, then use acetone to remove any residue, with no need to use the denatured alcohol as the acetone may leave less residue than the denatured alcohol.
Chain is drying now, and am about to apply the molten wax.
The wax is pretty hot at about 60deg C. I'll add the chain, move it around a bit in the crock pot, then turn down the heat so as to remove the chain when it cools down to 50 - 54 deg c.
@Garacha222 after using a solvent to clean the initial grease/ oil from the chain, acetone works great as a final rinse. The wax is fairly warm at 60˚C, but we do recommend reaching the temperature of 93˚C before removing the chain from the crockpot. Remember, the more swishing of the chain the better, you are just making sure that the wax reaches all moving parts of your chain inside and out.
@Rick Harker, you are correct. There is no rinsing step needed past the denatured alcohol/acetone rinse before dipping the chain in the pot of heated wax.
You put the fun in funnel!
I was waiting for Napoleon Dynamite to make a cameo with this music.
@Grizzleback07, his appearance would have set us a little over budget for this video. We are working out a contract for the future.
What kind of skills i need to fill the jar with liquid using funnel?
Depends on the degree of scientific rigour one would demand I would do a trial of 10 test runs each with and without funnel. Any splashing outside the jar rim counts as a "fail". From then it would be a simple matter to determine the p value to a cut off of +- 0.025 (let's be generous and allow two tails to your probability scenario) to a 95% confidence limit whether your skills should be deemed acceptable to the task. One should never take these issues too casually.
Bartosz W, we're just being a little extra cautious so we make sure that we don't spill any chemicals on unwanted surfaces :)
60's hippie music, a nice touch...
Makes sense, mineral spirits to clean, then alcohol to remove any residue, then apply wax. But how to ensure wax is really deep into rollers like the original factory lube? I guess I will look for your video on that....
@J B, you are correct. You can ensure that the wax fully penetrates the rollers and inner plates of the chain by swishing the chain thoroughly for at least 45 seconds within the wax (heated to the proper temperature of 200˚F/ 93˚C).
You might want to invest in a heated ultrasonic cleaner which will maintain the ideal temperature and really work the liquids into the tight spaces.
Cool, thanks for showing us how to clean a clean chain.
This is how your chain would look like after you start using wax based lubes.
But that’s a dirty chain. It’s full of that factory grease gunk and crap.
Those have gotta go before the chain can be waxed.
Do you have to do this before rewaxing a chain? Or is it only an old chain that's not been waxed/factory new grease?
Hi Ellis,
Thanks for your comment. We only recommend this chemical process to be repeated if you are prepping a racing chain for a big event. If you are simply rewaxing a training chain, then we recommend to just redip your chain in hot wax, swish, and hang to dry. This will both clean and lubricate an already waxed chain, but the small amount of dirt will remain in your slow cooker. Remember to change out the wax every 8 waxings or so in order to keep your wax cleaner and lasting longer between waxings.
if its a new chain with just the factory grease, how many changes of mineral spirits would I need? Is just one wash, letting it soak over night enough?
Thanks for the video. I have 2 questions. Can't methyl hydrate (pure methanol) be used instead of the denat alcohol? It's cheaper and is almost the same thing. Also, if I were to use gasoline as cleaner, would methanol or acetone be the best rinse?
I do it this way and it has shown great results. 1) Gasoline (leave it in there for 6-8 hours). 2) Degreaser (leave in there for 30 minutes), rinse w/ water after. 3) Mineral spirits (30 minutes).
Yes. Isopropanol, methanol and ethanol work quite well.
Will this work with yellow gloves?
KO channel & Francois Deshue, we are still currently testing that. To this date, we have not found yet that it provides any cleaning advantage ;)
I live in Southern California USA and mineral spirits is not available due to environmental concerns.What alternative do you recommend for the cleaner?
Turpentine, if that's available. Failing that you could probably use gasoline, which is still widely available in California despite environmental impact.
Gasoline works. The dirt will fall to the bottom of the jar and you can reuse most of it.
Do you have that in California , gasoline ? ;-)
Use acetone. Kerosene and gasoline will leave residue.
Paint thinner is mineral spirits with extra solvents, tho smellier
Can I use 96% ethyl alcohol instead of denatured alcohol?
Is it also cleaning the old wax?
Does mine.
I have an ultrasonic cleaner. Is there any part of this that can be skipped if using it to clean the chain?
US cleaner is not as effective as the shake jar.
@CyberGolem, thanks for the question. An ultrasonic cleaner is a great tool for cleaning a chain properly. We made this video for those who don't have access to an ultra-sonic cleaner. Please see our ultra-sonic cleaning steps on our website here: moltenspeedwax.com/pages/ultrasonically-cleaning-your-chain
Muc off decreaser instead of mineral spirits?
Apparently it's too weak
I don't have any chemicals to do this what other ways can an average Joe like me clean my chain to wax it? I have a brand new bike and chain
Get unleaded petrol. Cheap cheap. And Clean Clean. Check Oz Cycles section for this
what is the alcohol rinse for?
To remove traces of Mineral spirits
Nailed it @Vas.
to kill all microbes and viruses that could ruin your chain
I'm having some trouble getting the right translation for mineral spirits, it translates both to a somewhat oily solvent and to a more aggressive de-greasing non-oily solvent. Since you use alcohol after my guess is the first one. To dutch I get results to both "terpentine" and "thinner" anyone can help me out here?
It's a turpentine substitute. (Turpentine comes form tree bark, oddly enough.) en.wikipedia.org/wiki/White_spirit
@Erik Joosten, if you can find "white spirits" that would be the closest product to mineral spirits. Please connect with us via email if you have trouble finding this product and we would be happy to help you find a product that works. Thanks!
Naptha works too.
What can I use as a substitute for denautured alcohol. It is not avail In California anymore
acetone works
Music is tops!!!!!!!!
The video misses an important step. If it is desirable to reuse the mineral spirits, then it should be filtered to remove the dirt it contains. Otherwise the chain is exposed to the dirt a second time.
I'm a bit dubious about cleaning the chain unless it's actually dirty. What's the point? If you're using a correct mixture of paraffin and a lubricant like motor oil (I use SynLube), the chain won't pick up dirt if you're a roadie. OTOH, trail bikers will almost certainly need to clean the chain before lubing.
@Phil Houck, thanks for the comment. We recommend using fresh mineral spirits every time due to keeping your chain and wax clean and efficient. Dirty mineral spirits can be collected and stored as recommended by the manufacturer for later recycling at your local household hazardous chemical recycling plant.
As mentioned above in another comment, if the chain has any trace of oil or grease it will pick up dirt. In the case of our video above, a dirty chain is simply just a factory greased chain that has not been installed on a bike. We recommend cleaning all of the grease or prior lube from the chain in order to provide a clean surface for the wax to adhere.
One thing to mention, once you do clean the factory grease or existing oil from the chain, you are able to simply just re-dip your chain in wax after your initial waxing. This will both clean and re-lube your chain at the same time, but be sure to replace your wax after about 8 re-waxings so the wax doesn't get too dirty. A clean pot of wax and a clean chain equals more miles on each waxing, increased drivetrain efficiency, and less wear on each component of your drivetrain.
Be sure to let us know if you have any more questions!
The oil which remains on the chain and is displaced by the wax will collect dirt
It's not a bad idea to reuse it if it isn't too dirty for your initial soak to remove the bulk of the gunk. You don't need perfectly clean spirits for that.
Is the sound track for this video available?
@RogerBarrus, yes it is, we found our soundtrack at Premiumbeat.com
Would it be a good idea to use diesel before the mineral spirit? I have some really dirty chains that i want to wax
@somaRegroJ44, we do not recommend diesel fuel. Using any type of fuel can be very dangerous and we recommend mineral spirits instead. The reason why we recommend starting with a new chain when adopting the waxing technique is because the factory grease is much easier to remove than a previously oiled and ridden chain. Although, if that is what you prefer, then just make sure you take some more time to get your chains really clean so the wax can perform properly. Best of luck, and thanks for considering waxing.
for drying a chain, i put it in an sock, or pillow case and spin very fast
Did that, broke out the bottom , killed the cat.
Summary notes:
Initial application (Day 1):
Start with a stripped, bare metal chain
Apply one drop per link of Silca Super Secret
Let it cure for at least 4 hours (24 hours ideal)
Second application (After first ride):
Apply one drop per link of Silca Super Secret
Let it cure overnight (at least 4 hours)
Third application (After second ride):
Apply one drop per link of Silca Super Secret
Let it cure overnight (at least 4 hours)
Regular maintenance:
Reapply one layer of Silca Super Secret every 250-300 kilometers
No need to strip the chain between these regular applications
Full reset (Every 1,000-1,200 km):
Strip the chain back to bare metal using boiling water
If the chain is still on the bike:
Use a kettle to pour boiling water onto the front of the chain ring while pedaling
Collect the wax and dirt on a disposable paper towel
If the chain is removed:
Submerge the chain in boiling water
Shake it off
Start again from step 1 (Initial application)
0:29 Realy? This jar is not a bottle. Can not be without a funnel?
@Cycling MBK, thanks for your comment. We just want to make sure we don't spill any chemicals on unwanted surfaces. You may not use a funnel if you have a steady hand :)
ultrasonic cleaner with lemi-shine (walmart) & dawn. Twice
what about casette/cogs?
Denatured alcohol is banned in CA. Substitute?
I am using methanol or methyl alcohol. Does the same job - no residue. Be very careful. Do not inhale! Not to mention drink. Rubbing alcohol works too but it is more expensive. Or is this forbade as well in CA?
Can I use another solvent to substitute the mineral spirits, like ether or paint thinner?
Leonardo Viana Camargos guess what...mineral spirits is paint thinner aka aqua ragia
it is not so much important to have super ultra hiper clean chain, i heat it up by inductive heater and in first pass with wax is cleanning by cloth and in second pass is just final waxing and if do this procedure every 100km chain can stand double at least
Hi Makan, thanks for your comment. It is very important with the initial cleaning to perform all of these steps in order to remove all of the factory grease from the inner workings of the chain. This is where the most friction is created, and if the grease is not properly removed, then the wax will not adhere to those essential parts resulting in an inefficient chain. On the other hand, if these steps are not performed properly, you may collect grease and dirt within your wax, therefore compromising the longevity and performance of the wax applied to your chain. Remember, a clean chain is a fast chain, and it will stay lubricated much longer if all of the initial factory grease is removed.
27 mineral spirit baths and 6 alcohol baths later and the chain is finally spotless.
Cassette and jockey wheels spotless after 2 weeks of cleaning.
Chain waxed and put on bicycle.
Time saved in Time Trial = 3 seconds.
Alternative:
Fart twice on the way out and once on the way back.
Time saved = 4 seconds
That's some propulsive flatulence, I'm impressed!
Bobby. This process is not for you. Some of us have the time, resources, fitness and competitive drive that make these marginal gains appealing. And that is OK. This isn't for everyone.
there are mode benefits than just speed/drive train efficiency
I'm too sexy for my chains, too sexy for my chains
So sexy it pains.
he must have a funnel in his brain
No mineral spirits use petrol.
@R Terry, thanks for the comment. The reason why we do not recommend gasoline is because it is very flammable and leaves a residue on the chain that would inhibit the wax from adhering properly to the chain. A few baths of mineral spirits followed by denatured alcohol leaves the chain very clean and that way we can assure the wax will adhere properly and you will get the maximum life out of each waxing.
@@mspeedwax3964 I get that. You cant suggest it for liability reasons. But if some joe has only gas, be sure to rinse off thoroughly with denatured alcohol before you use Wax or "Squirt Lube"
@@mspeedwax3964 For sure, liability, lawyers and all that fun stuff. If gas is all you have be sure to rinse with the alcohol before you use wax or "Squirt Lube".
Too many steps. I just purchased 16 chainset from Amazon instead.
N
Too much faf
this cleaning cost more then new chain
Have you priced new chains lately? A decent 11s chain is $25 or more. Some lightweight "race" chains are $100. Molten speed wax is not marketed to someone fixing a 7-speed cruiser with a rusty cassette.
If you have a cheap chain, perhaps this process is not what you are looking for. You may want to consider a simple two step process such as degrease and re-lube. Park tool makes a nice degreaser and clip-on tool for this. it only takes a minute. www.amazon.com/TOOL-CHAIN-CLEANER-CM-5-2-CYCLONE/dp/B007HDNOT2/ref=asc_df_B007HDNOT2/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312070810048&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=3466643665212447550&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9013457&hvtargid=pla-439913047609&psc=1
ahhhggg the music!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! make it stop!!!!!!! oh yeah mute.
Good god with all this Time spent and materials, just buy a new chain and start with that. Probably time for one anyway. They don't last forever.
thacrackfox exactly what I was thinking
new chains are pre lubricated by the factory and you would want to remove that too
Everyone, thanks for your comments. @yoeuetuebee, you are correct. You want to make sure you remove the factory grease of a new chain before waxing. Wax does not adhere well to grease/ oil. In order to get the longest life out of each waxing and keep a very clean/ efficient drivetrain, you will want to clean all other oil-based lubricants from the chain.
Sadly one of the benefits that most are missing is the extended life of the chains and drive gear, people are seeing their chain life double and in some cases actually exceeding 15000 kilometers instead of 4000 kilometers.
what size jar is that? do i really need something with a lid or can i just be careful not to slosh it all over the place.
Diameter of 11-10cm is big enough for comfortable work. Not too big so you dont have to use too much chemicals. And its better to use a lid, chemicals are volatile liquids. I recommend to leave chain soak in your preferable chemical over night.