Відео

Yes don’t go over 100c, if the wax is a tad yellow when cooled then the paraffin in the wax has broken down and it’s properties are lost

Its not as thorough but mixing rubbing alcohol, dishsoap, and distilled white vinegar can be a good mix. Also consider using a combination of spray on and soak in degreasers. These will require more doses than what you see here.

ziplock bags aren't very heat resistant. You need a special one to withstand 93ºC more than once.

@@zygmuntthecacaokakistocrat6589 gotcha! Makes sense thanks

Apparently it's too weak

Yes you can. Just leave it in your sacrificial crockpot

Diameter of 11-10cm is big enough for comfortable work. Not too big so you dont have to use too much chemicals. And its better to use a lid, chemicals are volatile liquids. I recommend to leave chain soak in your preferable chemical over night.

I am using methanol or methyl alcohol. Does the same job - no residue. Be very careful. Do not inhale! Not to mention drink. Rubbing alcohol works too but it is more expensive. Or is this forbade as well in CA?

Does mine.

Turpentine, if that's available. Failing that you could probably use gasoline, which is still widely available in California despite environmental impact.

Gasoline works. The dirt will fall to the bottom of the jar and you can reuse most of it. Do you have that in California , gasoline ? ;-)

Use acetone. Kerosene and gasoline will leave residue.

Paint thinner is mineral spirits with extra solvents, tho smellier

acetone works

This is how your chain would look like after you start using wax based lubes.

But that’s a dirty chain. It’s full of that factory grease gunk and crap. Those have gotta go before the chain can be waxed.

I do it this way and it has shown great results. 1) Gasoline (leave it in there for 6-8 hours). 2) Degreaser (leave in there for 30 minutes), rinse w/ water after. 3) Mineral spirits (30 minutes).

Yes. Isopropanol, methanol and ethanol work quite well.

No

I just us a water bath and a random metal bowl

@R Terry, thanks for the comment. The reason why we do not recommend gasoline is because it is very flammable and leaves a residue on the chain that would inhibit the wax from adhering properly to the chain. A few baths of mineral spirits followed by denatured alcohol leaves the chain very clean and that way we can assure the wax will adhere properly and you will get the maximum life out of each waxing.

@@mspeedwax3964 I get that. You cant suggest it for liability reasons. But if some joe has only gas, be sure to rinse off thoroughly with denatured alcohol before you use Wax or "Squirt Lube"

@@mspeedwax3964 For sure, liability, lawyers and all that fun stuff. If gas is all you have be sure to rinse with the alcohol before you use wax or "Squirt Lube".

Hi Ellis, Thanks for your comment. We only recommend this chemical process to be repeated if you are prepping a racing chain for a big event. If you are simply rewaxing a training chain, then we recommend to just redip your chain in hot wax, swish, and hang to dry. This will both clean and lubricate an already waxed chain, but the small amount of dirt will remain in your slow cooker. Remember to change out the wax every 8 waxings or so in order to keep your wax cleaner and lasting longer between waxings.

Hi Makan, thanks for your comment. It is very important with the initial cleaning to perform all of these steps in order to remove all of the factory grease from the inner workings of the chain. This is where the most friction is created, and if the grease is not properly removed, then the wax will not adhere to those essential parts resulting in an inefficient chain. On the other hand, if these steps are not performed properly, you may collect grease and dirt within your wax, therefore compromising the longevity and performance of the wax applied to your chain. Remember, a clean chain is a fast chain, and it will stay lubricated much longer if all of the initial factory grease is removed.

We recommend waxing several chains before your trip so you are prepared. When one chain runs out of wax lubrication, just replace it with your backup. This works great for all trips, race weekends, and bike touring. If you don't have multiple chains, take your slow cooker with you and simply redip your wax chain in heated wax. Let the wax temperature rise to 200°F/ 93°C, swish your chain vigorously for a minute to clean and lubricate, and hang to dry. Just remember, your wax will become quite dirty if you do this often, so just remember to change your wax out frequently so you get great longevity out of each waxing.

Did that, broke out the bottom , killed the cat.

no difference chain is chain, better or worse, best is with best distance/cost ratio

The race chain needs to be fully cleaned with denatured alcohol before applying the wax. They recommend having a seperate cooker for race chains. You'd only put squeaky clean race chains in the race cooker.

@@phxrsx That's correct, but to be specific, we recommend to clean with mineral spirits first before the denatured alcohol, then dip your chain within the wax. The denatured alcohol is used to clean off the excess mineral spirits left within the chain so you don't transfer that to your clean pot of wax. Basically, all cleaning and waxing steps are completed for a racing chain to achieve max efficiency. A separate slow cooker for race chains is great in order to keep that wax as clean as possible.

No there is no need, you should just let it drip off. My understanding is that the 200 deg bath is a temperature that make the viscosity of the wax ideal so when you hang it to dry/harden it leaves with an appropriate amount of wax on the chain.

@@lefessier You are correct, thanks for chiming in. @Mr.mips, don't forget to swish your chain vigorously within the wax to push the wax through all of the small parts of your chain.

@somaRegroJ44, we do not recommend diesel fuel. Using any type of fuel can be very dangerous and we recommend mineral spirits instead. The reason why we recommend starting with a new chain when adopting the waxing technique is because the factory grease is much easier to remove than a previously oiled and ridden chain. Although, if that is what you prefer, then just make sure you take some more time to get your chains really clean so the wax can perform properly. Best of luck, and thanks for considering waxing.

That's some propulsive flatulence, I'm impressed!

Bobby. This process is not for you. Some of us have the time, resources, fitness and competitive drive that make these marginal gains appealing. And that is OK. This isn't for everyone.

there are mode benefits than just speed/drive train efficiency

It's a turpentine substitute. (Turpentine comes form tree bark, oddly enough.) en.wikipedia.org/wiki/White_spirit

@Erik Joosten, if you can find "white spirits" that would be the closest product to mineral spirits. Please connect with us via email if you have trouble finding this product and we would be happy to help you find a product that works. Thanks!

Naptha works too.

Thanks for your questions, Yuri! 1) Once you clean all grease and oil from your chain and start waxing you can simply re-wax without re-cleaning the chain. A waxed chain holds very little dirt so cleaning and lubrication is accomplished with a re-wax. Note that you should only wax four chains per half pound before replacing the wax (more chains OK if your rides are in clean conditions). If your chain is quite dirty, for example after a ride in the rain, you can rinse your chain with water or swish it in boiling water before waxing. It's important to make sure the chain is dry before re-dipping your chain. If it's a race chain and you want maximum efficiency go ahead with a solvent clean. 2) It's important to degrease your entire drive train before installing a waxed chain. If grease remains on the chainrings, pulleys or cassette it will transfer to the chain and attract dirt. Cleaning can be done with a rag and mineral spirits/denatured alcohol on the bike; the cassette should be removed and submerged in solvent and cleaned with a brush. Waxing drive train parts other than the chain can be done but it's time consuming so save it for your top A races. The cassette can be submerged and the other parts "painted" with a brush to save time. Similar to the chain only a very thin coat of wax is needed to fully lubricate. 3) Applying a drip lube to a waxed chain does no harm but the chain will attract dirt and the entire drive train will need to be solvent cleaned before re-waxing. Instead of using a drip lube we recommend having a backup chain or two that are waxed for quick replacement. This way the drive train stays clean and efficient. 4) A waxed chain will become slightly louder as it's broken in but it's still fully lubricated and efficient. In fact, a waxed chain will maintain race efficiency for 175 mi /282 km in dry conditions.The key is waxing in 200F/93C wax and swishing the chain aggressively so wax is forced into every part of the chain. 5) There is no difference in application for colored chains. Again thanks for your questions, if you need any further clarification please give us a call at 651.447.9719 or email us at info@mspeedwax.com, ride fast!

Amazing. Thank you so much for the responses. You rock!!!

Thanks Yuri!

@@YuriSanCa I would recommend washing the used wax chain in kettle boiling water. Melt all the used wax off the chain and than re wax the chain. Mspeed wax says it holds little dirt. Thats still dirt, rinsing it with kettle boiling water will help remove that dirt. I recommend doing it over a sieve.

US cleaner is not as effective as the shake jar.

@CyberGolem, thanks for the question. An ultrasonic cleaner is a great tool for cleaning a chain properly. We made this video for those who don't have access to an ultra-sonic cleaner. Please see our ultra-sonic cleaning steps on our website here: moltenspeedwax.com/pages/ultrasonically-cleaning-your-chain

One tool compresses and this removes the link, the other tool expands, and this locks the master link. Convenient on the bench, just grab the appropriate tool. Park Tools makes a single tool that does both functions -- better for your portable kit, but a shade more inconvenient to use. However, if you're caught without any tool, you can use your fingers to compress the link to open it and your hands to pull the chain links apart to lock the master ring.

Hi @darren hall, thanks for the feedback! We're glad to hear it. Thanks for also purchasing our Race Powder, conservatively you will see at least a third of a watt advantage.

you gained 200 watts