Pro tip for the professionals out there that like to have everything to be perfect. Turn the piece of filament so that way the bow is turning upwards, or I suppose downwards is fine. Then flatten it out and tape the two ends to the table before measuring. That will make your Measurement way more accurate
Yes @SDa.......you bring up an excellent point that I noticed right off. The shortest distance between two points (in this case the most accurate distance or measurement) is a straight line. The video example Jim shows is NOT using a straight line and the filament sample is actually a radius! I worked in Production Automation with CNC’s (3, 4, and 5 axis) making parts for IBM with tolerances of .005mm (.0002 in) using MAFord solid carbide tooling (spade drill, spiral fluted drill @.0057 dia, and end mills @ .093dia) on Delrin 100 and Vespel 500 composite and actually holding half that tolerance. Would never get anywhere with that style of measurement. These videos are informative but when someone shows such a blatant, inaccurate technique I have to say something. Tape on the ends to hold the true length sounds better than what was shown. Perfectionist? Maybe! Professional? Always! CONSISTENCY is the name of the game with CNC production and these printers are basically 3-axis (and the ‘feeder’ for the extruder could be considered a 4th axis) CNC’s using the same Gcode used in Nc’s and CNC’s since the 1950’s. I also have considerable experience programming in Industrial code, Gcode, Mcode, etc. and in about 9 different versions as these languages are often proprietary to a particular machine brand.
Marco. You saved me some frustration. Was about to throw my phone because this was not mentioned in the vid. Thank you. I would say though, after you make adjustments and run a proper 100mm piece, remember to store your settings. I forgot to twice, then remembered seeing that option under control/store settings. Worked great. Thanks again.
Some parts were a little confusing at first until I pulled out my common sense and then this video was extremely helpful! My printer hasn't been acting right for months even after a few other e-step calibration videos. Finally, everything is working PERFECTLY! Thank you!
Jim, just a tip for this one if you ever re-do this video in the future. Your formulas the way you wrote them up could confuse some. I figured out what you did but here is what might be better. Step 1: 100/Measured Length= n Have the Measure length noted off to the side in a list of your variables. Step 2: Step 1 * Current Estep value. Again have the value for the Current Estep noted in a list on the side instead of in your formula. What one might interpret what you wrote as the following. step 1: 100/(Measured length/87) Step 2: Step 1 X(Current Estep/93). I hope you find this feedback helpful in the future.
@@TheEdgeofTech No problem Jim. I will send you a Google sheets example of what I'm talking about via my business account puppets3Dcreations at Gmail dot com.
@@Juz10xD Me too. I thought his formula was different since i was able to calibrate without using that formula. I also thought that's what he meant by hia formula being confusing is about that but turns out it was about the 93 e steps
@@Juz10xD all good. I was just thinking if my formula was different when i was watching his. And i realised he wrote the formula against all math conventions.
This has been a much better guide on how to calculate e-steps. I spent a little bit trying to re-find this video because all of the others just breezed over it. Thanks for being thorough!
To anyone else that might be confused about the flow rate and wall width: The walls of the cube are 2*(nozzle size), so if you have a 0.4mm nozzle you should get a 0.8mm wall after printing!
@@ontariodigger162 there is no need to change anything in Cura, it will always try to print it 0.8mm wide since the 3D model says so (if you use a 0.4mm nozzle and the 0.4mm stl file). Just print it and measure it
Dude.....can't thank you enough. I was virtually done with these Enders. Works like a charm now. The way you explain and walk thorough the steps. You're nothing short of awesome
You're guide completes me. I got my e steps figured out (adjusted to 96 and its dead on 100mm +- 0.2) and my flow rate actually went down to 95%. Thanks for the guide.
Is it any surprise you INCREASED your Esteps and now you have to DECREASE your flow? It's not because you got your Estep number correct. All you did was shift the calculations for the end result around.
I changed my extruder to a dual gear one, and YOU amazing man helped me tune perfectly! Everything was well explained, sooo....THANK YOUUUU!! I love your channel, and I hope your arm healed very nicely!!
@@TheEdgeofTech It's slightly fruystrating that with cura you have to use a plugin to get flow into the per meterial settings despite people asking for it for years at this point.
It may be obvious to experienced printers, but I'm a beginner and I don't know what these tweaks improve. I'm having some problems and I'm sure your tweaks won't make them any worse, but I don't know if they'll help with the problems I'm having. What problems are taken care of by doing the two adjustments? Thank you.
quick question here, at 7:18 you state that after you have calibrated your esteps you did the extruding test again and it was spot on. How did you tell the printer about this new esteps? I understand that when I edit the gcode in cura all files slices with this code will have the new step in place, but how will the printer now when it's only extruding filament?
If you have a newer Ender 3, you can do it right in the control panel of the printer. I have a video to show you how. Also, you could do it using Octoprint or Pronterface, and I have a video to show that as well. In this case we used the starting gcode to do it, but that is an old way and the other ways are easier now.
Had zits / blobs in my exstrution. Tried many thing but since my spool was running low finally got time to go trough these steps. My prints are awesome to perfect in my consideration. Thx man! This was a great help and for now own. flowcube, small test and only need to adjust the flowrate. Thanks for the great explanation! It helped.
Bro. I love your video. My printer is running awesome now. I had NIGHTMARE stringing. I'm new to 3d. 5 days new. Got my Capricorn rolling from last video. Doing my Esteps now. It's rocking and rolling! Thanks!
Spot-on explaination :) I did some flowrate calibration for the filament spools that are most commonly used when I'm printing things, mostly PLA and PETG. Once filament have been dried, across brands, well, there are subtle differences. From brand to brand, PLA yielded values between 0.95 and 0.98... PETG being either 0.99 or 1 (using PrusaSlicer). Subtle, yet not to be overlooked. Minor changes can produce a world of difference.
At shallow angles of bend, it doesn't make any significant difference. If you know what cosine is, the relationship between the length of the hypotenuse and the side adjacent, the value with a 5 degree bow angle is .9962 so that means that if the actual length of the filament were 100mm long but had a 5 degree bow in it, then you'd measure 99.62mm. Less than half a mm of filament error, but you can always assume your extruder is pushing a little extra, but never less than the amount you measured.
So how do you verify the E-steps for the Z-Axis stepper motor (or either the X and Y for that matter)? Do you still set like 100 mm and have the Z-axis raise be 100 and do that same calculation? How do I know the presets are correct? Currently, our extruder seems to drag across the infill after a certain height.
Thank you so much for this you explained it extremely well without going off at a tangent like quite a few others which just confused the issue. This is the second vide of yours that has helped so I have subscribed. Keep up the good work and a big thank you from London UK
is 93 the default for all Creality products? I know you say that in the video but I have also read conflicting numbers of 93-95 when it comes to the Ender-5 (which is the model I have) Also, The latest version of CURA doesn't allow you to copy and paste from an outside source (Luke's guide). So that being the case does the wording, spacing, grammar have to be exact? Thanks for making this video
Good question. I'm not sure about the other machines. If you use my other video it tells you how to get it off the Printer using Octoprint or Pronterface! Also, yes it needs to be exact for the code part, but the descriptions don't matter.
My Original E Step was 98.94, My New EStep is 135.534, Approx 136. I type M92 E136 in Octotprint Terminal to modify the current EStep value. Then M500 to write new ESstep value to EEPROM. Then M503 to read saved value. Then I extruded another 100mm and it was spot on,Thank you!
Sorry, but I got confused when you (8:05) copy from I do know what file from, the you pasted jn cura setting changing E93 to E100, do not make sense to me where is that value for or where you get it from?? Thanks
I don’t know what I’m doing wrong. I go into my cura settings, set the wall thickness to 1 line .4 thickness and slice. The problem is it’s still prints 3 line wall thickness at about .9 when I measure it. How can I print a single line test cube?
Great video, very helpful thank you! I’m new to 3D printing and your videos have helped me from assembly to successful prints! Question what is the blue thing around your fan?
Appreciated this video very much. I used PLA filament to calibrate the eStep and flow very successfully. Question: Just for fun I tried it with TPU and got a measurement of 18mm shorter than PLA. Should that value be that different, and if so, should I be calibrating eSteps based on the material I'm using each time?
Thanks for the great videos! When slicing Lukes .8 cube test which profile should I use? Super .12, Dynamic .16 Standard .2 Then set the Shell wall thickness to.8 which gives 2 walls. (Ender 5 plus with .4 mm nozzle) Only adjusting the temps for PLA + (210 nozzle 65 bed)
I would have to go look but I think he put that on his thingiverse page. It should say what settings to use when printing it. I'm watching a movie currently so I can't do it, but let me know if you can't find it.
I'm sorry kinda new to this so if I changed my E-steps in my printer why add the code in Cura doesn't it use the step values in the printer already unless you add code to change it? BTW thanks!!
Took me a minute to find. He copied it from the guide he links to under the description. Bettter late than never but hopefully you figured it out already
Great video. Only issue I seen is that the filament should be measured when strait. In video it shows being measured when at arc which will result in a shorter then actual measurement
You have a good point. Luckily an arch that wide will likely not impact the measurement enough to be a huge problem. The length difference with that arch and a straight piece is likely somewhere under 0.01 range.
How do I get Luke’s test cube to print right on a 0.4mm nozzles? Any specific settings apart from esteps done first? I'm getting 0.8/0.9 on the walls. It beings my flow in at 46 all together. Seems strange. I hope you can advise.
I believe he changed it so that the cube should now be .8 thickness. So if you are using Cura and have your line thickness set to .4, you want to use 2 walls to get the .8. From the sounds of it, you may be already doing that and your cube may be dialed in pretty good.
around 3:20 you go into the prepare menu to let the extruder extrude 100mm filament. However, I don't have these menus. It seems you have an updated firmware or a more advanced menu setting. Any idea what it is and how I could change my Ender 3 so my menu is like that?
Erwin Mulder - he had upgraded his firmware to the TH3D EZABL (Easy Auto Bed Level) version. There are several videos out there on how to do this. I like Teaching Tech's video series for the Ender 3 - very informative.
Finally I found a tutorial on how to calibrate those two values (esteps and flow rate), thanx a lot! Apart from the creatively written small math formula (I figured it out as you explained what you meant in the video) everything was very well explained. Thanks again!
@@TheEdgeofTech "Flow" and "Initial layer flow". You changed flow to 105%. But "Initial layer Flow" is also 105%. Mine is at 100% but I changed my "Flow" to 98%, should I also change "Initial layer flow" then?
Great video! I have 2 questions: Why must you remove the coupler after removing the boden tube? Can't the filament be cut flush at the coupler? Then... you auto-homed before performing the measurement. I don't quite understand what that accomplishes. And I guess I have 3 questions. When I did this and went to 'move axis', my Extruder (axis) read out +000.0, yours had a value. Why was that?
Mine has a number because I probably moved it before when I was filming. It won't matter if you have a number, when you turn the know the number will go up or down from there. Also, you can try doing it like that to save time if you want! :)
I just upgraded to a Dual Gear Extruder. My e steps calibration came out to 144.824 to give perfect 100mm extrusion. I saved this to the eSteps in the EEprom. Do I still add the code M92 E145; to the start code for my printer in Cura? In your video you show your calculated value for eSteps qs 107 but you cadd M92 E100 to the start code. Is this an oops?
hey im new to 3d printing so sorry for the Noob question lol when I go to enter the G- code Cura won't let me paste it in. it says " G-code commands to be executed at the very start - seperated by ." Am i doing something wrong? Any with help would be appreciated lol.
ok, so here are some questions about all this.... where did you get the E100 value from to put into cura, you were saying 107, then you switched to a line of code(???) where did you get the code from??? then you entered it into cura, wouldn't you enter it into the Ender 3 setting and click on save settings?? this kinda makes for more confusion than answers.
Hi. Do you adjust the E steps on the machine, the slicer g code or both. Thanks. I have adjusted it in the machine and am getting 100mm on test but unsure if i also need to add the g code to the slicer. My Ender 3 Pro is stock apart from swapping the board for a 1.1.5 silent board. Thanks
Thanks for the reply. I will leave it at that for now then and do the flow calculations when i have my Calipers back from work. I have been printing for a little while with what i think is a very good quality finish with out ever doing these calibrations (i did find them quite a way out though) but have only noticed problems when trying to print moving parts. I cant seem to get the clearness correct for free movement. Im stating back from the beginning and going over all the basics including steps I obviously skipped in the set up eager to get printing.
Thanks for the great videos Jim - got my Ender 3 Pro setup nicely :) Quick question - on the flow rate, once measured does this apply to any spools of that filament (e.g. PLA) or does it only apply to that brand/manufacturer, or even to that individual colour? Thanks :)
It apply to your current extruder. If you change your extruder or if it is really used, you will have to change your esteps. For specific filament, flow rate will change but not esteps
The flow rate probably should be done with every filament you try. Then write the findings on the spool. It's super easy if it's the first thing you print with each new spool, and just keep the cube on your memory card.
Great video..For a guy thats new to this 3d prints, only had my first 3d printer for 1 week now and thought my prints was good, but this estep and flow calibration made my prints way better!!
What did I miss. I dig all your vids. How did you calculate 100mm to pass through the extruder only? I looked back but Im confused. I did order the new one on your link just now.
thanks bud after banging my head against the wall I couldn't figure out why my ender 3 was printing weak under extruded Prints and then I came across your video and figured out that my printer had the wrong e-steps setting in and it was only extruding about half of what it should have been extruding after I put the new values in everything was good
Good video. The math formulas are expressed incorrectly: 100 / (Current measured length) * 93 = (New e-Step) Also you don't actually need to snip off the filament. Just trim the ends and measure with the caliper's upper jaws (used for inside measurements) against the extruder to the tip of the filament.
Thank you for the video. I am new to 3D printing so have a question after doing this. I have an Ender 5 Plus. When going into the extruder it was set to 10mm - I added 100 to it making it 110 - I measured the extruded filament. The only difference from your video is your measured filament is slightly bowed and not straight. I straightened mine. - It measured 106mm - 100 / 106 = 0.9433 - 0.9433 x 10 = 9.433 - Round it up you get 10mm which is what it was set at My question now is should I bring my current estep down from 10mm closer to 0 to make it 100mm or should I just leave it where it is?
Oh wow, when I get my next video out I need to link to this for Estep calculations (I'm doing a beginner lingo 3D printer one). I've watched 3 other videos and read about 4 other websites that had descriptions, and none of them did it as clearly as you did. I appreciate that you showed the equation twice....otherwise you're right, the first time would've been cofusin (I thought heck 100 sounds obvious...it's 100 mm, why wouldnt you set it to 100?). Great video, I'll check out your other work and get subscribed. I know how tough making and editing can be, so to watch you do it with a bum arm was even more impressive :D
is that command you used specific to the ender 3? I'm running an anycubic i3 mega and upgrading to a bondtech but don't know how to chnage the steps and am not that familiar with software other than cura
Quick question. My nozzle is 0.8 and it says my wall thickness is 2.4 but the top and bottom walls are 1.55 . when i made my measurements the average was 1.57 But if i use 2.4 as the wall thickness then my flow rate is a crazy 156 and my prints are a glob in seconds. I assume that I should be using the top/bottom thickness of 1.55, because then the flow rate is 98 and the prints look fine. thanks again for the great video!
Luke changed the original file. The first file was one wall, 0.4. Now it is two wall, 0.8. That makes this video a little bit misleading and diffucult to understand if you are new to 3d printing and if mathematics arent your strong side. Thanks for the videos you are making ! It really helps a noob like med =)
When measuring the filament, did you measure it straight to check, then it just bent when you were discussing it? Curious to know how accurate we have to be as I'm new to this. I'm guessing the more accurate the better, and straight filament would be more accurate.
HI! Thanks for watching! Yes, when it was measured it was straight. At the time I had a broken arm and couldn't do it 2 handed. I had my wife measure it for me to get my totals, and then when I filmed it I couldn't straighten it all the way. Always make sure it's straight and that will give you the best results! Thanks again for your feedback.
Not sure if I am repeating others, but the math is simpler: the printer did N steps (NS) and advanced L (in mm) so: NS*93=L, you want NS*Estep=100, so Estep = 100/L*93
Hi, thanks for this. I was following it right up to the point where you said “we just need to copy this line of code....” Where did you find that code? Up until that point you had been dealing with hardware and then you leapt in to software! I am running a standard Ender 3 with just a few add-ons, including the hot end fix.
@@Reno0513it is a PDF that can be downloaded here c3d.media/3d-printer-help-guide-creality-others/?fbclid=IwAR0o-4zvp_vSePyZQA4IgVUaenU-9b7-Jcez2p6egjE_CLgTtqt2PLtfw94 I also recommend that u watch this video ua-cam.com/video/-dT-vbvFQCs/v-deo.html
So....$10 question When you measured the extruded length...did you take into account for the curve (Understanding that you're doing this one-handed - but that was enough curve to add a mm or two to the measurements... (Just wondering if that was "for display" and you did it properly off-camera) A variant of the free-air version is to measure the filament going INTO the extruder. (I have to do this as I have a direct-drive extruder) I mark off 120mm, extrude 100, measure the difference between the mark and what came out, and calculate extruded length from that. (so if I have 25mm left to the mark, I only extruded 95mm)
Hi! that is one of the biggest comments I get on this video lol I did measure it straight with the help of my wife at the time. for video sake I could not straighten it and I should have taped it to the table. But yes you always measure a straight and in my experience it's easier to do it that way. Then just run a test cube can you get your flu rate with the filament you're using and you're done. Thanks for watching!
Hmm I'm bit confused i thought your new e step number was 107 yet when you put the g code in youve put 100. Is the 100 in gcode the length you want to extrude or meant to be your new estep number (107) sorry if its dumb question. New to all this
Thanks so much for this video. At first I was like why would you want to do the free air method for e steps? But after you explained things at the end it makes perfect sense. Been having problems with over extrusion on my Ender 3 Pro and I'm sure this will fix it.
Where do you input the esteps in Prusa? Where did you get the estep command you copied and pasted? what would be the value in Prusa for your flow rate of 105?
If your printer is new enough, I would do it on the control panel of the printer. Or, connect to the computer and do it that way. I have videos on both ways. That's much easier then modifying the gcode.
All the Ender 3's come with a .4 nozzle. So that is ok! All you have to do is go download the cube from Luke's page in the description of the video. It's a .8 cube now, so you will just print it with 2 walls. Then if you have 1 wall way off, that's Cura's fault. If that is the case, you just take the measurements from the the 3 sides that are close. If you need help with that, shoot me an email!
Jim - Great video thanks! When printing with Luke's new cube at 0.8, would you do the last calculation at 0.4/.378 or 0.8/.378? I assume that it's still 0.4 because of the nozzle size but would like to confirm. Thanks
Good question! Thanks for watching! Shoot me an email and I can help with your calculations. If it's a .8 cube your measurements should all be around .8. Then you would take .8 divided by your average. I hope that helps!
@@TheEdgeofTech Perfect, thanks! That's all I needed to confirm. I started thinking about it and came to the conclusion it's the wall thickness for the calculation, not the nozzle size. Got a final calculation of 84.43% so am just running another cube to see if I am any closer to the 0.8. The first one averaged 0.9475, just slightly over-flowing...
although with a broken hand, I am very appreciative that you try to help us. but I have question tho, my cube thickness average came out .81 so i divided 0.4 by 0.81 roughly 1/2 should I change my flow rate as 50? can you help me out please. thanks in advance...
Why do you suggest copying the new g-code into the start up g-code in Cura? Why can't I just enter that number into my printer via the Control/Motion/Esteps setting and be done with it?
okay so where is this pdf that you got your text from? the tutorial leaves you at a dead end without it. I'm going to try just manually typing it in and see if that works. thanks!
@@TheEdgeofTech Oh it's called Luke's Help Guide. I didn't realize that's what it was. But I got my esteps dialed in and the test cube printing now! I extruded another 100mm piece that I'll measure at work tomorrow to see if it's right this time and measure the cube to see my new flow rate.
Great video, but I have one comment. When I see you write the Measured Length then a line with the number underneath, I read that as the measured length divided by #. Maybe just the math nerd in me. You did a great job of talking through it when I went back and actually listened to what you said instead of just reading what you wrote.
@@TheEdgeofTech love the video! I agree with this comment and would add that you could simply edit out the part where your E steps and mm length happened to be the same number :)
Another question... your measurement shows the filament as CURVED in the vid at 7:27 which makes the new length > than the 100.64 shown so the real measurement seems like it should be LONGER than stated. No? Am I missing something? Like maybe the NEW e-steps number should have been 106 or lower instead of 107? What am I missing? You’re the expert(s)... other than that, REALLY CLEAR explanation... but I’m Math Boy... 🤓😎🤪🤣👅
When I did my calculations I had my wife hold it straight off camera. I should have shown that. But When I filmed I couldn't show it straight because of the broken arm. The calculations should be correct and I have updated them in the description too.
I think I missed a part around 5:50. So my estep was 98.36 you show dividing 100 by my estep which is 98.32 in this case which gets me 1.0204. then you just reverse the math which of course gives me back 100. I'm confused where you used the 1.0204 result? When you change the gcode you put in E100 from E0. Do we not touch any setting in the ender 3?
When you said you don't have to change it unless you change the extruder or the gear. If you change the gear but with the same amount of teeth are you still good to go or does that change anything. I ordered new gears and noticed they have 26 teeth and I think my ender pro came with a 41 tooth gear. I didn't count the original gear but that's what is on order.
Why this is a great video and I’m getting most of it... I have a few questions... So firstly this is ok for the cr10 as well i take it. Also, what is the default Estep for the cr10? Reason I ask is, the Goode in cura is slightly different for me, and yup it’s just default. So any help there would be good. But moving onto the flow rate test, could you put the entire settings for the print cube, because the link , sends us to 8 different cubes, with no explanation at all. i DL the 8 point cube.. But again i ask, what are the settings in cura for that print.? Onto the main estep instructions, again, how exactly are these entered,.? Like I said, I’m no beginner, been printing for years now, but I feel this video would be absolutely spot on if you reshot it. With way more clearer instructions to inputting the code But defiantly, settings for the cube print, as that basically finishes your tutorial off, by not putting that in here, your leaving half a job done. Unless I’m completely wrong, or someone can point me to another video, that is a bit more straight forward. Still a great video, just missing so much info, for a high level instructional video. Thanks for any tips or help .
In the Video the measured lengths have a bit of a curve to them, to me that means the measurement is low, is this something I should be concerned with?
When I filmed the video I had a broken arm. I had my wife help with the measurements that I used to dial in. But for filming, I couldn't straighten them out myself. Always make sure it's straight so you get the most accurate measurement!
Is this a better method then feeding it through the hot end.? or are they both just as accurate.? I have tried to do the measure 120 and send it through the hot end but it feels to fiddley for me. :/ . This way looks easier :)
It's person preference, but this is the way Luke teaches and the way I do it. If you do it then way, you only need to do it 1 time and the print the cube for each of your filaments. Unless you change something at the extruder. If you di it through the hotend you have to do that for each fillament.
@@TheEdgeofTech thank you for the response nah I only wanna do it once. i have just changed to the red aluminium extruder, hence the need to redo e steps. so I am definitely doing this way. :) gee whizz you learn something new everyday 3d printing :) . I love it :) Thanks a zillion
Thank you so much for this video. I saw a lot of people talking about Esteps and flow but I couldn't find a good explanation. This however is a very good video!
Maybe someone has already asked this question or it's not necessary, but would you need to do this after upgrading to a direct drive extruder? I have an Ender 3 Pro. Thanks!
Hello ... I’m at the part where you copy and paste the code into Cura. I’m guess you get that from the guide linked in your description but that link seems to be dead. Please help! Thanks.
The question is, what if you change/slow speed print i.e. different from what you calculated the flow rate at? i.e. If I calculated flow rate at 80mm print speed, but now If I want to print at 50mm/s or TPU at slow speed. Shall I keep using same calculated %
Should I be concerned if one of my walls on the calibration cube is significantly smaller than the rest (specifically the back wall). All the other measurements are within .05 of each other except the rear wall as it sits on the print bed which is 0.1-0.15 off from the rest. Happens every time across multiple different PLAs. If so, what can I look at adjusting to change it (Ender 3 btw)?
My esteps were at 93, that seems to be the default for Ender 3. I extruded 97mm. I put in my new esteps which was 95.8 and extruded again. I got 100mm exactly, right on the dot. You don't want to go over 100. That results in over extrusion.
Doing these steps, gives me 232.5. First time I ran 3 100s. Came with 40mm each that was pushed. By doing your math I’d have to run mine up to 232.5. With my high temps by Extruder is clicking like hell. But I’m pushing 99mm each time after saving the setting. I’m not worried about doing cura file as I can set my e steps to my printer itself. Any other ideas?
Okay loving this :) . I have calibrated my ender 3 pro perfectly so a big thank you for that . The little guy has been chugging away for months now. my only question is. I have a cr10 s5 and have done the hot end mod and calibrated the extruder (free air method) 96.5 and i get 100mm. When it comes to flow I got a calculation of 114 as it was printing walls at 0.70. what is 114 deemed as too high?. is this okay :/ just seems excessive compared to my ender. but then again this thing is huge . Thanks heaps again your a legend.
Pro tip for the professionals out there that like to have everything to be perfect. Turn the piece of filament so that way the bow is turning upwards, or I suppose downwards is fine. Then flatten it out and tape the two ends to the table before measuring. That will make your Measurement way more accurate
You can also drop the filament in boiling water for a minute then take it out and straighten it while it’s flexible
Yes @SDa.......you bring up an excellent point that I noticed right off.
The shortest distance between two points (in this case the most accurate distance or measurement) is a straight line. The video example Jim shows is NOT using a straight line and the filament sample is actually a radius! I worked in Production Automation with CNC’s (3, 4, and 5 axis) making parts for IBM with tolerances of .005mm (.0002 in) using MAFord solid carbide tooling (spade drill, spiral fluted drill @.0057 dia, and end mills @ .093dia) on Delrin 100 and Vespel 500 composite and actually holding half that tolerance. Would never get anywhere with that style of measurement. These videos are informative but when someone shows such a blatant, inaccurate technique I have to say something.
Tape on the ends to hold the true length sounds better than what was shown.
Perfectionist? Maybe! Professional? Always! CONSISTENCY is the name of the game with CNC production and these printers are basically 3-axis (and the ‘feeder’ for the extruder could be considered a 4th axis) CNC’s using the same Gcode used in Nc’s and CNC’s since the 1950’s. I also have considerable experience programming in Industrial code, Gcode, Mcode, etc. and in about 9 different versions as these languages are often proprietary to a particular machine brand.
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Click Control > Motion, then scroll down to “E-steps/mm” and change it to your new E-step value.
And by doing that we don’t have to change anything from cura, right?
@@fitopineda5192 Correct.
If we change the value in “E-steps/mm” ...Do you still have to change it in Prusa?
Thank you for this.. I’ve got 13 printers.. Didn’t want to adjust the Cura settings when only one of my machines is acting up.
Marco. You saved me some frustration. Was about to throw my phone because this was not mentioned in the vid. Thank you. I would say though, after you make adjustments and run a proper 100mm piece, remember to store your settings. I forgot to twice, then remembered seeing that option under control/store settings. Worked great. Thanks again.
Some parts were a little confusing at first until I pulled out my common sense and then this video was extremely helpful! My printer hasn't been acting right for months even after a few other e-step calibration videos. Finally, everything is working PERFECTLY! Thank you!
Jim, just a tip for this one if you ever re-do this video in the future. Your formulas the way you wrote them up could confuse some. I figured out what you did but here is what might be better. Step 1: 100/Measured Length= n Have the Measure length noted off to the side in a list of your variables. Step 2: Step 1 * Current Estep value. Again have the value for the Current Estep noted in a list on the side instead of in your formula.
What one might interpret what you wrote as the following. step 1: 100/(Measured length/87) Step 2: Step 1 X(Current Estep/93).
I hope you find this feedback helpful in the future.
Thank you for the feedback!! I appreciate it!
@@TheEdgeofTech No Problem Jim.
@@TheEdgeofTech No problem Jim. I will send you a Google sheets example of what I'm talking about via my business account puppets3Dcreations at Gmail dot com.
Yea so 100 / ( 93/93) is 100...
Thank you!!!! Also putting those distance names over the distance looks like another division equation. Hella confusing
I was trying to figure out that whole division line in the second figure til i saw your comment
@@Juz10xD Me too. I thought his formula was different since i was able to calibrate without using that formula. I also thought that's what he meant by hia formula being confusing is about that but turns out it was about the 93 e steps
@@SimplyV3rna I'm not sure, I followed his formula after figuring out that division misinterpretation and had no issues
@@Juz10xD all good. I was just thinking if my formula was different when i was watching his. And i realised he wrote the formula against all math conventions.
The formula is 100 / mesaureLength * currentEStep = newEStep
This has been a much better guide on how to calculate e-steps. I spent a little bit trying to re-find this video because all of the others just breezed over it. Thanks for being thorough!
To anyone else that might be confused about the flow rate and wall width:
The walls of the cube are 2*(nozzle size), so if you have a 0.4mm nozzle you should get a 0.8mm wall after printing!
I have the same problem, set cura to 1 line wall, .4 thickness, and it prints the 3 wall line still
@@ontariodigger162 there is no need to change anything in Cura, it will always try to print it 0.8mm wide since the 3D model says so (if you use a 0.4mm nozzle and the 0.4mm stl file). Just print it and measure it
no lol. A .4 nozzle should be a .4 wall
@@pubexploit6782 yes, but it prints two walls = .8 mm :)
@@SweCookie I'm saying for just 1 wall:)
Dude.....can't thank you enough. I was virtually done with these Enders. Works like a charm now. The way you explain and walk thorough the steps. You're nothing short of awesome
You're guide completes me. I got my e steps figured out (adjusted to 96 and its dead on 100mm +- 0.2) and my flow rate actually went down to 95%.
Thanks for the guide.
oh my gosh, this just made this SO much easier for me. I really appreciate it
Awesome! Thanks for watching!
thank you for the great video,
my E-steps was 93 now is 97.8,
flow rate 100% reduced it to 84.7%,
perfect results, well done.....
Same here, E-step went to 98 and flow to 87%, pretty close at least. Ender 3 printing Generic ABS.
Glad you mentioned that. I was also confused as my esteps went only a little bit up (95.7 on Direct Drive). I am also clocking in a 83-84%.
Is it any surprise you INCREASED your Esteps and now you have to DECREASE your flow? It's not because you got your Estep number correct. All you did was shift the calculations for the end result around.
Mine went to 68%!? How's this possible? Testing now.
When printing now there is spaces between the line, I increased the flow rate to 90. Why this happen?
I changed my extruder to a dual gear one, and YOU amazing man helped me tune perfectly! Everything was well explained, sooo....THANK YOUUUU!! I love your channel, and I hope your arm healed very nicely!!
Thanks!! I'm glad it helped!
Have you been having to calibrate flow per material too? I did the same mod with my ender 3 and now I have to.
@@TheAkashicTraveller That's good practice, so the correct answer is yes you should. But many people just go with the flow and keep it the same.
@@TheEdgeofTech It's slightly fruystrating that with cura you have to use a plugin to get flow into the per meterial settings despite people asking for it for years at this point.
It may be obvious to experienced printers, but I'm a beginner and I don't know what these tweaks improve. I'm having some problems and I'm sure your tweaks won't make them any worse, but I don't know if they'll help with the problems I'm having. What problems are taken care of by doing the two adjustments? Thank you.
quick question here,
at 7:18 you state that after you have calibrated your esteps you did the extruding test again and it was spot on. How did you tell the printer about this new esteps?
I understand that when I edit the gcode in cura all files slices with this code will have the new step in place, but how will the printer now when it's only extruding filament?
If you have a newer Ender 3, you can do it right in the control panel of the printer. I have a video to show you how. Also, you could do it using Octoprint or Pronterface, and I have a video to show that as well. In this case we used the starting gcode to do it, but that is an old way and the other ways are easier now.
Had zits / blobs in my exstrution. Tried many thing but since my spool was running low finally got time to go trough these steps.
My prints are awesome to perfect in my consideration. Thx man! This was a great help and for now own. flowcube, small test and only need to adjust the flowrate.
Thanks for the great explanation! It helped.
Awesome! I am glad to hear it helped, and thanks for watching!!!
Outstanding tutorial! very clear and easy to follow. Thanks
Bro. I love your video. My printer is running awesome now. I had NIGHTMARE stringing. I'm new to 3d. 5 days new. Got my Capricorn rolling from last video. Doing my Esteps now. It's rocking and rolling! Thanks!
Great news!! I'm glad You're rolling now! Thanks for watching!!
Spot-on explaination :)
I did some flowrate calibration for the filament spools that are most commonly used when I'm printing things, mostly PLA and PETG.
Once filament have been dried, across brands, well, there are subtle differences. From brand to brand, PLA yielded values between 0.95 and 0.98... PETG being either 0.99 or 1 (using PrusaSlicer).
Subtle, yet not to be overlooked. Minor changes can produce a world of difference.
Great tip! It's always good to check the flow rate with all your filaments to be spot on!
Yes :) Still have to do it for TPU, nylon, and ABS. When the printer will be repaired and enclosed...
When you measured the 100mm the filament was bent slightly. Does that make a difference? Should I hold it down straight?
came to ask this exact question
At shallow angles of bend, it doesn't make any significant difference. If you know what cosine is, the relationship between the length of the hypotenuse and the side adjacent, the value with a 5 degree bow angle is .9962 so that means that if the actual length of the filament were 100mm long but had a 5 degree bow in it, then you'd measure 99.62mm. Less than half a mm of filament error, but you can always assume your extruder is pushing a little extra, but never less than the amount you measured.
@@HuFlungDung2 thanks or the explanation!
So how do you verify the E-steps for the Z-Axis stepper motor (or either the X and Y for that matter)? Do you still set like 100 mm and have the Z-axis raise be 100 and do that same calculation? How do I know the presets are correct? Currently, our extruder seems to drag across the infill after a certain height.
Thank you so much for this you explained it extremely well without going off at a tangent like quite a few others which just confused the issue. This is the second vide of yours that has helped so I have subscribed. Keep up the good work and a big thank you from London UK
is 93 the default for all Creality products? I know you say that in the video but I have also read conflicting numbers of 93-95 when it comes to the Ender-5 (which is the model I have) Also, The latest version of CURA doesn't allow you to copy and paste from an outside source (Luke's guide). So that being the case does the wording, spacing, grammar have to be exact? Thanks for making this video
Good question. I'm not sure about the other machines. If you use my other video it tells you how to get it off the Printer using Octoprint or Pronterface! Also, yes it needs to be exact for the code part, but the descriptions don't matter.
My Original E Step was 98.94, My New EStep is 135.534, Approx 136. I type M92 E136 in Octotprint Terminal to modify the current EStep value. Then M500 to write new ESstep value to EEPROM. Then M503 to read saved value. Then I extruded another 100mm and it was spot on,Thank you!
Gotta say man your channel has been my goto for my 3D printing solutions. Thanks for the videos
Sorry, but I got confused when you (8:05) copy from I do know what file from, the you pasted jn cura setting changing E93 to E100, do not make sense to me where is that value for or where you get it from??
Thanks
Hi! You get the GCode from the help guide in the link below! Sorry about the confusion. Thanks for watching
I don’t know what I’m doing wrong.
I go into my cura settings, set the wall thickness to 1 line .4 thickness and slice. The problem is it’s still prints 3 line wall thickness at about .9 when I measure it.
How can I print a single line test cube?
Great video, very helpful thank you! I’m new to 3D printing and your videos have helped me from assembly to successful prints! Question what is the blue thing around your fan?
Appreciated this video very much. I used PLA filament to calibrate the eStep and flow very successfully. Question: Just for fun I tried it with TPU and got a measurement of 18mm shorter than PLA. Should that value be that different, and if so, should I be calibrating eSteps based on the material I'm using each time?
That's a great question. I have always only done it once. The dialed in the flow rate. But I may have to look into flexibles and see if it changes.
Thanks for the great videos! When slicing Lukes .8 cube test which profile should I use? Super .12, Dynamic .16 Standard .2 Then set the Shell wall thickness to.8 which gives 2 walls. (Ender 5 plus with .4 mm nozzle) Only adjusting the temps for PLA + (210 nozzle 65 bed)
I would have to go look but I think he put that on his thingiverse page. It should say what settings to use when printing it. I'm watching a movie currently so I can't do it, but let me know if you can't find it.
I'm sorry kinda new to this so if I changed my E-steps in my printer why add the code in Cura doesn't it use the step values in the printer already unless you add code to change it? BTW thanks!!
Finally!!! This video in combination with other videos helped me find peace after sleepless nights!!!
Where did he copy that line of gcode from? That's the only part I didn't understand.
Took me a minute to find. He copied it from the guide he links to under the description. Bettter late than never but hopefully you figured it out already
@@dabbingdaily8929 At least it’s helpfull for other viewers! ;)
Great video. Only issue I seen is that the filament should be measured when strait. In video it shows being measured when at arc which will result in a shorter then actual measurement
You have a good point. Luckily an arch that wide will likely not impact the measurement enough to be a huge problem. The length difference with that arch and a straight piece is likely somewhere under 0.01 range.
How do I get Luke’s test cube to print right on a 0.4mm nozzles? Any specific settings apart from esteps done first?
I'm getting 0.8/0.9 on the walls. It beings my flow in at 46 all together. Seems strange. I hope you can advise.
I believe he changed it so that the cube should now be .8 thickness. So if you are using Cura and have your line thickness set to .4, you want to use 2 walls to get the .8. From the sounds of it, you may be already doing that and your cube may be dialed in pretty good.
around 3:20 you go into the prepare menu to let the extruder extrude 100mm filament. However, I don't have these menus. It seems you have an updated firmware or a more advanced menu setting. Any idea what it is and how I could change my Ender 3 so my menu is like that?
Erwin Mulder - he had upgraded his firmware to the TH3D EZABL (Easy Auto Bed Level) version. There are several videos out there on how to do this. I like Teaching Tech's video series for the Ender 3 - very informative.
@@oldguy2194 Thank you!!!
Finally I found a tutorial on how to calibrate those two values (esteps and flow rate), thanx a lot! Apart from the creatively written small math formula (I figured it out as you explained what you meant in the video) everything was very well explained. Thanks again!
Thanks for mentioning the 'algebra that isn't algebra' . So in this case the divide line should read (or in our example).
Hey, professional guy, how about you straighten your filament out when measuring it? Your numbers are off if you measure it curved.
he probably did it, just not shown because he cant use both hands... he could use tape to keep it straigh but I think that is not really necessary
On your video Initial Layer Flow is the same as your new flow rate. Did u change that aswell or was it 105% before?
I think you are referring to the first layer flow rate right? I left that even after the calibration.
@@TheEdgeofTech "Flow" and "Initial layer flow". You changed flow to 105%. But "Initial layer Flow" is also 105%. Mine is at 100% but I changed my "Flow" to 98%, should I also change "Initial layer flow" then?
Great video! I have 2 questions: Why must you remove the coupler after removing the boden tube? Can't the filament be cut flush at the coupler? Then... you auto-homed before performing the measurement. I don't quite understand what that accomplishes. And I guess I have 3 questions. When I did this and went to 'move axis', my Extruder (axis) read out +000.0, yours had a value. Why was that?
Mine has a number because I probably moved it before when I was filming. It won't matter if you have a number, when you turn the know the number will go up or down from there. Also, you can try doing it like that to save time if you want! :)
I just upgraded to a Dual Gear Extruder. My e steps calibration came out to 144.824 to give perfect 100mm extrusion. I saved this to the eSteps in the EEprom. Do I still add the code M92 E145; to the start code for my printer in Cura? In your video you show your calculated value for eSteps qs 107 but you cadd M92 E100 to the start code. Is this an oops?
If you saved it on the printer, you don't need to do it in the gcode! You are good to go!
Love this guy, he is so cool. Could deffo go for a beer with him in the pub.
Awesome video. Will this line of code also work in prusaslicer? I'm assuming it will but its always good to double check.
hey im new to 3d printing so sorry for the Noob question lol when I go to enter the G- code Cura won't let me paste it in. it says " G-code commands to be executed at the very start - seperated by
." Am i doing something wrong? Any with help would be appreciated lol.
ok, so here are some questions about all this.... where did you get the E100 value from to put into cura, you were saying 107, then you switched to a line of code(???) where did you get the code from??? then you entered it into cura, wouldn't you enter it into the Ender 3 setting and click on save settings?? this kinda makes for more confusion than answers.
Awesome video. At 7:55; how did you get access to the stock coding list? I’ve been looking on the internet every day for weeks, can’t find anything
Hi. Do you adjust the E steps on the machine, the slicer g code or both. Thanks. I have adjusted it in the machine and am getting 100mm on test but unsure if i also need to add the g code to the slicer. My Ender 3 Pro is stock apart from swapping the board for a 1.1.5 silent board. Thanks
If you can do it right on the machine, that's the best way! You don't need to out it in the GCode.
Thanks for the reply. I will leave it at that for now then and do the flow calculations when i have my Calipers back from work. I have been printing for a little while with what i think is a very good quality finish with out ever doing these calibrations (i did find them quite a way out though) but have only noticed problems when trying to print moving parts. I cant seem to get the clearness correct for free movement. Im stating back from the beginning and going over all the basics including steps I obviously skipped in the set up eager to get printing.
@@jamesace1990 Awesome! You will get it dialed in!
Thanks for the great videos Jim - got my Ender 3 Pro setup nicely :) Quick question - on the flow rate, once measured does this apply to any spools of that filament (e.g. PLA) or does it only apply to that brand/manufacturer, or even to that individual colour? Thanks :)
It apply to your current extruder. If you change your extruder or if it is really used, you will have to change your esteps.
For specific filament, flow rate will change but not esteps
The flow rate probably should be done with every filament you try. Then write the findings on the spool. It's super easy if it's the first thing you print with each new spool, and just keep the cube on your memory card.
Great video..For a guy thats new to this 3d prints, only had my first 3d printer for 1 week now and thought my prints was good, but this estep and flow calibration made my prints way better!!
What did I miss. I dig all your vids. How did you calculate 100mm to pass through the extruder only? I looked back but Im confused. I did order the new one on your link just now.
thanks bud after banging my head against the wall I couldn't figure out why my ender 3 was printing weak under extruded Prints and then I came across your video and figured out that my printer had the wrong e-steps setting in and it was only extruding about half of what it should have been extruding after I put the new values in everything was good
Good video.
The math formulas are expressed incorrectly:
100 / (Current measured length) * 93 = (New e-Step)
Also you don't actually need to snip off the filament. Just trim the ends and measure with the caliper's upper jaws (used for inside measurements) against the extruder to the tip of the filament.
Thank you for the video. I am new to 3D printing so have a question after doing this. I have an Ender 5 Plus.
When going into the extruder it was set to 10mm
- I added 100 to it making it 110
- I measured the extruded filament. The only difference from your video is your measured filament is slightly bowed and not straight. I straightened mine.
- It measured 106mm
- 100 / 106 = 0.9433
- 0.9433 x 10 = 9.433
- Round it up you get 10mm which is what it was set at
My question now is should I bring my current estep down from 10mm closer to 0 to make it 100mm or should I just leave it where it is?
The calculation should be 100/106=.943. .943xcurrent machine ESteps ( default 93) = 87.6. I would use 88. Then set that and test/measure again.
Used this on mine today. Great tutorial when combined with your other video on how the new E3 can set E-steps from the screen.
Oh wow, when I get my next video out I need to link to this for Estep calculations (I'm doing a beginner lingo 3D printer one). I've watched 3 other videos and read about 4 other websites that had descriptions, and none of them did it as clearly as you did. I appreciate that you showed the equation twice....otherwise you're right, the first time would've been cofusin (I thought heck 100 sounds obvious...it's 100 mm, why wouldnt you set it to 100?). Great video, I'll check out your other work and get subscribed. I know how tough making and editing can be, so to watch you do it with a bum arm was even more impressive :D
Awesome.. I've watched several videos about this subject and your video is by far the best. Thanks!
Thanks for watching!!
is that command you used specific to the ender 3? I'm running an anycubic i3 mega and upgrading to a bondtech but don't know how to chnage the steps and am not that familiar with software other than cura
If it's using Marlin, then you should be good with the commands!
Quick question. My nozzle is 0.8 and it says my wall thickness is 2.4 but the top and bottom walls are 1.55 . when i made my measurements the average was 1.57 But if i use 2.4 as the wall thickness then my flow rate is a crazy 156 and my prints are a glob in seconds. I assume that I should be using the top/bottom thickness of 1.55, because then the flow rate is 98 and the prints look fine. thanks again for the great video!
Luke changed the original file. The first file was one wall, 0.4.
Now it is two wall, 0.8.
That makes this video a little bit misleading and diffucult to understand if you are new to 3d printing and if mathematics arent your strong side.
Thanks for the videos you are making ! It really helps a noob like med =)
This could be easily changed with Wall line count set to 1 :)
When measuring the filament, did you measure it straight to check, then it just bent when you were discussing it? Curious to know how accurate we have to be as I'm new to this. I'm guessing the more accurate the better, and straight filament would be more accurate.
HI! Thanks for watching! Yes, when it was measured it was straight. At the time I had a broken arm and couldn't do it 2 handed. I had my wife measure it for me to get my totals, and then when I filmed it I couldn't straighten it all the way. Always make sure it's straight and that will give you the best results! Thanks again for your feedback.
@@TheEdgeofTech That was my guess! Figured maybe it would save someone in the future who didn't think through that fully. Great video series.
Not sure if I am repeating others, but the math is simpler: the printer did N steps (NS) and advanced L (in mm) so: NS*93=L, you want NS*Estep=100, so Estep = 100/L*93
Hi, thanks for this. I was following it right up to the point where you said “we just need to copy this line of code....” Where did you find that code? Up until that point you had been dealing with hardware and then you leapt in to software! I am running a standard Ender 3 with just a few add-ons, including the hot end fix.
Hi! The GCode can be found in section 1.8 of Luke's Help guide! Let me know if you have any questions!
agreed.. that was very confusing to watch..
Is the help guide a PDF? A website? Where can we find it? Thanks!
@@Reno0513it is a PDF that can be downloaded here
c3d.media/3d-printer-help-guide-creality-others/?fbclid=IwAR0o-4zvp_vSePyZQA4IgVUaenU-9b7-Jcez2p6egjE_CLgTtqt2PLtfw94
I also recommend that u watch this video
ua-cam.com/video/-dT-vbvFQCs/v-deo.html
So....$10 question When you measured the extruded length...did you take into account for the curve (Understanding that you're doing this one-handed - but that was enough curve to add a mm or two to the measurements... (Just wondering if that was "for display" and you did it properly off-camera)
A variant of the free-air version is to measure the filament going INTO the extruder. (I have to do this as I have a direct-drive extruder) I mark off 120mm, extrude 100, measure the difference between the mark and what came out, and calculate extruded length from that. (so if I have 25mm left to the mark, I only extruded 95mm)
Hi! that is one of the biggest comments I get on this video lol I did measure it straight with the help of my wife at the time. for video sake I could not straighten it and I should have taped it to the table. But yes you always measure a straight and in my experience it's easier to do it that way. Then just run a test cube can you get your flu rate with the filament you're using and you're done. Thanks for watching!
Hmm I'm bit confused i thought your new e step number was 107 yet when you put the g code in youve put 100. Is the 100 in gcode the length you want to extrude or meant to be your new estep number (107) sorry if its dumb question. New to all this
Thanks so much for this video. At first I was like why would you want to do the free air method for e steps? But after you explained things at the end it makes perfect sense. Been having problems with over extrusion on my Ender 3 Pro and I'm sure this will fix it.
Awesome! I hope it worked!
Where do you input the esteps in Prusa? Where did you get the estep command you copied and pasted? what would be the value in Prusa for your flow rate of 105?
If your printer is new enough, I would do it on the control panel of the printer. Or, connect to the computer and do it that way. I have videos on both ways. That's much easier then modifying the gcode.
so I only have a .4 nozzle, how do you suggest I go about the calibration cube? Should I still print it out and go about how you did it?
All the Ender 3's come with a .4 nozzle. So that is ok! All you have to do is go download the cube from Luke's page in the description of the video. It's a .8 cube now, so you will just print it with 2 walls. Then if you have 1 wall way off, that's Cura's fault. If that is the case, you just take the measurements from the the 3 sides that are close. If you need help with that, shoot me an email!
Jim - Great video thanks! When printing with Luke's new cube at 0.8, would you do the last calculation at 0.4/.378 or 0.8/.378? I assume that it's still 0.4 because of the nozzle size but would like to confirm.
Thanks
Good question! Thanks for watching! Shoot me an email and I can help with your calculations. If it's a .8 cube your measurements should all be around .8. Then you would take .8 divided by your average. I hope that helps!
@@TheEdgeofTech Perfect, thanks! That's all I needed to confirm. I started thinking about it and came to the conclusion it's the wall thickness for the calculation, not the nozzle size. Got a final calculation of 84.43% so am just running another cube to see if I am any closer to the 0.8. The first one averaged 0.9475, just slightly over-flowing...
although with a broken hand, I am very appreciative that you try to help us. but I have question tho, my cube thickness average came out .81 so i divided 0.4 by 0.81 roughly 1/2 should I change my flow rate as 50? can you help me out please. thanks in advance...
Why do you suggest copying the new g-code into the start up g-code in Cura? Why can't I just enter that number into my printer via the Control/Motion/Esteps setting and be done with it?
okay so where is this pdf that you got your text from? the tutorial leaves you at a dead end without it. I'm going to try just manually typing it in and see if that works. thanks!
Should be in the description! If not let me know!
@@TheEdgeofTech Oh it's called Luke's Help Guide. I didn't realize that's what it was. But I got my esteps dialed in and the test cube printing now! I extruded another 100mm piece that I'll measure at work tomorrow to see if it's right this time and measure the cube to see my new flow rate.
Great video, but I have one comment. When I see you write the Measured Length then a line with the number underneath, I read that as the measured length divided by #. Maybe just the math nerd in me. You did a great job of talking through it when I went back and actually listened to what you said instead of just reading what you wrote.
Thanks for watching and for the feedback! I appreciate it!
@@TheEdgeofTech love the video! I agree with this comment and would add that you could simply edit out the part where your E steps and mm length happened to be the same number :)
Another question... your measurement shows the filament as CURVED in the vid at 7:27 which makes the new length > than the 100.64 shown so the real measurement seems like it should be LONGER than stated. No? Am I missing something? Like maybe the NEW e-steps number should have been 106 or lower instead of 107? What am I missing? You’re the expert(s)... other than that, REALLY CLEAR explanation... but I’m Math Boy... 🤓😎🤪🤣👅
When I did my calculations I had my wife hold it straight off camera. I should have shown that. But When I filmed I couldn't show it straight because of the broken arm. The calculations should be correct and I have updated them in the description too.
I think I missed a part around 5:50. So my estep was 98.36 you show dividing 100 by my estep which is 98.32 in this case which gets me 1.0204. then you just reverse the math which of course gives me back 100. I'm confused where you used the 1.0204 result? When you change the gcode you put in E100 from E0. Do we not touch any setting in the ender 3?
I updated the math in the description to be more clear. I hope that helps!
How did you find you e-step value? I have the th3d firmware, but I cannot find it in the menu
When you said you don't have to change it unless you change the extruder or the gear. If you change the gear but with the same amount of teeth are you still good to go or does that change anything. I ordered new gears and noticed they have 26 teeth and I think my ender pro came with a 41 tooth gear. I didn't count the original gear but that's what is on order.
I would check it to be safe!
Hey thanks for the idea of taking the tube off and just cutting it. Much easier than marking the filament on the other side of the extruder.
Why this is a great video and I’m getting most of it...
I have a few questions...
So firstly this is ok for the cr10 as well i take it.
Also, what is the default Estep for the cr10?
Reason I ask is, the Goode in cura is slightly different for me, and yup it’s just default.
So any help there would be good.
But moving onto the flow rate test, could you put the entire settings for the print cube, because the link , sends us to 8 different cubes, with no explanation at all.
i DL the 8 point cube..
But again i ask, what are the settings in cura for that print.?
Onto the main estep instructions, again, how exactly are these entered,.?
Like I said, I’m no beginner, been printing for years now, but I feel this video would be absolutely spot on if you reshot it.
With way more clearer instructions to inputting the code
But defiantly, settings for the cube print, as that basically finishes your tutorial off, by not putting that in here, your leaving half a job done.
Unless I’m completely wrong, or someone can point me to another video, that is a bit more straight forward.
Still a great video, just missing so much info, for a high level instructional video.
Thanks for any tips or help .
where are you getting this g code from????? You dont say anything that I heard in your video about WHERE?????
The Gcode comes from Luke's Guide in the section this. Sorry about that. I thought I had it in there.
@@TheEdgeofTech great video man. hope the arms all good!
In the Video the measured lengths have a bit of a curve to them, to me that means the measurement is low, is this something I should be concerned with?
I'm wondering the same thing...
When I filmed the video I had a broken arm. I had my wife help with the measurements that I used to dial in. But for filming, I couldn't straighten them out myself. Always make sure it's straight so you get the most accurate measurement!
Hahah oh.. that makes sense 😂
Hope your arm is doing better
Gotta get the arm straight before he can straighten the filament :p
This is the best method I've seen of measuring esteps. Nice and easy!
Is this a better method then feeding it through the hot end.?
or are they both just as accurate.?
I have tried to do the measure 120 and send it through the hot end but it feels to fiddley for me. :/ .
This way looks easier :)
It's person preference, but this is the way Luke teaches and the way I do it. If you do it then way, you only need to do it 1 time and the print the cube for each of your filaments. Unless you change something at the extruder. If you di it through the hotend you have to do that for each fillament.
@@TheEdgeofTech thank you for the response nah I only wanna do it once. i have just changed to the red aluminium extruder, hence the need to redo e steps. so I am definitely doing this way. :) gee whizz you learn something new everyday 3d printing :) . I love it :) Thanks a zillion
Thank you so much for this video. I saw a lot of people talking about Esteps and flow but I couldn't find a good explanation. This however is a very good video!
Glad it was helpful!
Where do you copy the first gcode from?
I didn't really understand anything about the second/third part until the end of the video, then it all clicked haha. Thanks a lot for this
Thanks man. For the first time someone explained these 2 important steps so that even a knob like me can understand it 😂👍🏼
Awesome! Thanks for watching!
So the line of code is:
M92 E(calculation of E-step)
Got it...
Thank you so much for making this video. Seriously, you are the man.
Thanks! I'm glad it helps! Thanks for watching!
Maybe someone has already asked this question or it's not necessary, but would you need to do this after upgrading to a direct drive extruder? I have an Ender 3 Pro.
Thanks!
Curious. I did the calculations for my printer, and ended up with 221 e-steps. It still under extrudes, would it be time to replace the extruder?
Like and Subscribed, Jim. Looking forward to upgrading and improving my Ender 3
Hello ... I’m at the part where you copy and paste the code into Cura. I’m guess you get that from the guide linked in your description but that link seems to be dead. Please help! Thanks.
The question is, what if you change/slow speed print i.e. different from what you calculated the flow rate at? i.e. If I calculated flow rate at 80mm print speed, but now If I want to print at 50mm/s or TPU at slow speed. Shall I keep using same calculated %
Should I be concerned if one of my walls on the calibration cube is significantly smaller than the rest (specifically the back wall). All the other measurements are within .05 of each other except the rear wall as it sits on the print bed which is 0.1-0.15 off from the rest. Happens every time across multiple different PLAs. If so, what can I look at adjusting to change it (Ender 3 btw)?
Good question. What thickness wall are you printing?
My esteps were at 93, that seems to be the default for Ender 3. I extruded 97mm. I put in my new esteps which was 95.8 and extruded again. I got 100mm exactly, right on the dot. You don't want to go over 100. That results in over extrusion.
OMG this saved my sanity, I was going nuts trying to figure out what was wrong. A million thanks.
Great Video! Thank you to share this with all of us!
Love the video but where do I get the gcode to put in cura? On my ender3 pro I changed the esteps but it’s still over extruding in certain areas.
Doing these steps, gives me 232.5. First time I ran 3 100s. Came with 40mm each that was pushed. By doing your math I’d have to run mine up to 232.5. With my high temps by Extruder is clicking like hell. But I’m pushing 99mm each time after saving the setting. I’m not worried about doing cura file as I can set my e steps to my printer itself. Any other ideas?
Thankyou Jim....its easy when you explain it in layman's terms....👍
Okay loving this :) . I have calibrated my ender 3 pro perfectly so a big thank you for that .
The little guy has been chugging away for months now.
my only question is. I have a cr10 s5 and have done the hot end mod and calibrated the extruder (free air method) 96.5 and i get 100mm.
When it comes to flow I got a calculation of 114 as it was printing walls at 0.70. what is 114 deemed as too high?. is this okay :/ just seems excessive compared to my ender. but then again this thing is huge .
Thanks heaps again your a legend.