Anyone else see the black cat trotting by at 9:52??? I'm really enjoying the sped up bits, especially when you talk to yourself! Very neat job, gentle sir!
By now I know why so many people just spray-foam their vans, that endless cutting and measureing will many of the drive nuts! Big respect for your work, you`re really a perfectionist! Thx for the vid! :-)
Weirdly, I quite enjoy sitting in the van trimming all the panels, it's quite calming and relaxing. Foam would certainly be easier to get into all the fiddly bits but comes with its own set of problems.
When building in metal curves are better than right-angles because the corner of a right-angle is a stress-point. As was found out when the Comet airplane crashed.
After thoroughly enjoying your Cruising the Cut vlog I've just found this one and am quite excited to see how all this turns out. I have to say you are most creative in your methods to achieve warmness.
Hi David, Really enjoying your work on the van conversion. Your cardboard template work with the cellutex reminds me very much of putting a laminate floor (Pergo for your American readers) down in our house on the first floor. Lots of cutting, taping and muttering to get the template to fit nicely around the rooms. I very much look forward to when you get around to putting down the floor and installing the walls and ceiling. Thanks Doug!
David, I know this is 5 years ago and your template method worked just fine, but having done this myself I was amazed by a method of using a 'ticking stick' to create a template and would recommend searching for one the few videos on here that describe this technique as I think you'll find it interesting and probably have cause to use it at some point in the future.
Your cutting techniques are admirable. A safety tip -Always cut away from your hands. Never position any part of your hand so the blade is cutting towards it. If the blade were to slip or suddenly the blade cuts too much you could really hurt yourself.
Howard M-B - so true. I nearly cut my thumb off as a kid when a knife slipped. I still have mild nerve problems with it 35 years later. Safety first but when you are young you don’t know/care.
Once again behind the 8-ball but as a sidebar I decided to join into the fun and subscribed to Vandemonium. By chance did you measure the exact dimensions on the Celotex insulation board. You could have an e-book and sold it for a few pounds maybe?
David that has to be the definition of a fiddly job. Once you have all the bits of celotex sorted for size are you going to ‘bond’ them together on their abutting edges to prevent air circulation? Any gaps will make an effective thermal bridge.
I don't think they would, on the basis that air in an enclosed space is actually a good insulator and as the whole of the panelling will be covered with the vapour barrier, that creates an enclosed air space which would retain heat. That said, I have used a low expansion adhesive foam to adhere them and squirted a fair bit of that around any gaps so it will take up some of the slack.
I've just come across this channel of yours, from watching your cruising the cut channel and I've found these first few videos fascinating and addictive. Not only do I love narrowboats and want to live on one, when funds allow, but the other thing I'd love to have is a campervan or a caravan. You are living my dream life, LOL. I never realised that a campervan had to have insulation in the sides, behind all the cupboards and things. Do other campervan builders put insulation in all the 'ribs' of the van? I drive a van for a living, so I can understand how fiddly it was to cut the insulation to fill all those areas between the ribs. Being a bit OCD about getting things cut precisely, I'd be the same with those celotex sheets and it's easy to cut, so why not. Looks like you've done a great job so far anyway. By the way, I'm glad you didn't use an angle grinder on those metal strips on the floor ply lining. The sparks would of embedded in your paintwork, which would of left lots of rust spots in it and felt rough to the touch. They even embed themselves in glass and do the same thing. I look forward to watching the rest of the videos. Martin.
A second thought: the sticky back stuff you put up behind the boat stove... after you’ve gotten all your bits of board in the van, what about covering the entire inside with the thin sticky back stuff? Perhaps the price of it makes it unfavourable... but it would work well to hold in all the bits and block any air gaps :)
That stuff is very expensive but there will be a vapour barrier using another foil-based product stuck to all the surfaces and taped to make a continuous block for any air.
I've just discovered your channel and I love it. I have a van that I'm going to convert, hopefully. I discovered you from rickvanman, I like him also. You remind me of Hugh Grant !!!!!!!
Hopefully before you start spray foaming the Celotex, you cover the wheel Arches and bottom of the side walls edge of the floor with 1 or 2 layers of the Sound Deadening. Not only will it make working in the van far more pleasant, but it will also protect the metalwork when you start making a mess - and you make a mess - the foam may be sold as more manageable, but really only by those using it every day.
The foam I'm using is a low expansion adhesive, not one of those hugely expanding filler foams, so there will be relatively little mess (and I know that because I've now done it)
Just to let you know the cans come with a 8 inch directional tube to dispense the insulation where you need it. The insulation expands so little is needed. Hope this might help.
You will not stop the heat being lost by conduction via the exposed metalwork. Curious to know why you haven't used Spray Foam for the awkward-to-access parts. When you come to fitting out, bear in mind that you can make lightweight rigid panels using a wooden frame sandwiched by two pieces of formica and squirt spray foam in the void. I used it when fitting out a folding caravan.
Yes, absolutely, there will always be bits of the van that lose heat - not least the windows as well as those odd bits of metal. But they will be covered as far as possible. I like your panel idea, intriguing!
Just for interest sake. Have you ever considered canned spray foam insulation to fill in small crevices and voids. Its available here in US (hope so in UK) and I have used it on my van to good results since it is going to be top covered anyway. Good job. Love your vlogs.
David, your end result should give you a fantastic noise barrier for recording your journey with the dash-cam. Worst of it is if you should fall in love with an opera singer, become stone deaf, and respond accordingly.
You can use vermiculite as insulation it would pour down the back of those holes really easily it's that gold shiny stuff you get from the garden centre
I looked at vermiculite but from what I read it is very good at absorbing water which is not really ideal for an insulator in a metal van. Better to have water-resistant materials so they don't soak it up like a sponge. I may have entirely misunderstood this, of course.
hi there... lovely clear video. I'm proceeding to work on my VW T4 but not nearly ready to insulate. I have seen a mechanic using sound insulation which is sold for the vehicle industry and I know he is happy with the results I'm not sure if it provides thermal qualities as well as sound. This is the first time I've seen the use of RIP (Celotex). I use a lot of this material in a building environment and have much experience cutting and fitting etc and am aware that ventilation is very important to eliminate reaching the dew point (condensation). My question is has it been successful?. Techniques that I use when pieces are joined is the use of foil tape to eliminate the loss of heat through the gaps I also use expanding foam in those awkward spaces rather than stuffing with loft style insulation. Many thanks.
Yes, it works and as I think I showed in subsequent videos, I also used spray foam around the edges as well as fluffy insulation for hard-to-reach areas. Crucially, the entire insulated area is covered with an impermeable vapour barrier to ensure moist air cannot reach the metal and thus can be dissipated through controlled ventilation (ceiling fan, side window etc)
Just a thought about tools. Have you tried using a Japanese pull saw? If not then can I suggest that you give one a try, I have found the cuts a lot smoother and straighter, the effort less and the satisfaction improved.
A bit of a concern with that stuff blowing around and finding its way through the cracks at speed. Not great to breath! I’d seal every hole with clear tape or rubberized spray or something. Be mindful of that stuff on your first few drives David. Great videos!
Well David, it is winter and progress seems to be a little slow. And in addition to doing the van project you probably have paid assignments. But then when we get to spring/summer/autumn time you are cruising the cut (not all of the time) so I wonder when this project will be finished?`I guess the insulation is about done now and it has been a time-consuming task. But the next steps will hopefully move along faster, good luck! :)
Technically, yes, but you have to keep the foam bottles warm while doing it and I was doing this outside in the middle of winter. Plus if you’re not careful, the expansion can push bits of the metal out of shape if you stick too much in.
Hi, because I’m not conversant with your insulation properties, can you elaborate on whether your insulation has any possible fire hazard with your 12v power socket in the rear. The socket looked like the metal was not covered up 100% hence my query. Thanks. David
Because that stuff simply dampens down the "tinnyness" of the panels and reduces "boominess" as you drive (apparently - I wasn't sure if it was needed since it would all be insulated but was assured by someone who'd tried it with and without that it was definitely better with). You only need to cover about 20-25% of the panel for it to have the required effect. Any more produces little extra result for much extra cost. It's not a sound insulation method.
If EVER there was a Van 'Over-Engineered' Yours takes first prize ...... All vans should have stuck to the Mk1 Transit Formula and just added the more reliable Mechanicals .... So simple to insulate and work on .... Just watching your video's wears me out ... I'd HATE to be doing all that 'Fussing-and-Farting About' .....No reflection on You Dave .... You have the patience of a Saint! :-)
Weirdly, I'm rather enjoying the fiddliness of it all. It's very zen-like and therapeutic to sit in the back of the van pondering what bit to do next and gently finessing the insulation!
Hi Richard. You're quite right, cutting the board does produce a lot of tiny plastic bits, which I hadn't anticipated when I began. I've tried to pick up as much of the mess as I can but would definitely try to cut in an enclosed space with a sweepable floor if I did it again.
Uh... I'm a little scared of insulating the back of the cigarette lighter socket and the wiring leading to it. I'm hoping you never plug anything high-power into it because high current heats up wiring. (Maybe you know this, but I'm just saying in case you don't.) The heating can sometimes be worse where the wire joins the socket and where socket metal meets plug metal. The latter particularly gets worse with oxidization, just so you know. Anyway, that's some pretty difficult and clever work, getting all that insulation into the tubes. I can readily imagine it, including all the scratches and pokes. And I know none of those angles are quite 90 degrees! XD
Greetings from Canada, have you thought about spraying some sort of anti-rust product inside the panels and doors while you have them open. All that insulation might trap moisture and create a problem down the road (pun intended). Cheers
Hi. Thanks. The insulation will be covered by a vapour barrier to prevent moisture from inside the van - mostly me breathing plus moisture from the gas stove - from reaching the insulation so any moisture in there will only be that which is there at the moment I seal it all up, and that should be minimal. Cheers
Just a thought, if there’s a ‘next time’. What about using that aerosol expanding foam you see in B&Q and various builders merchants. This having lots of locked in air bubbles would surely provide reasonable insulation. Also, with it expanding to perfectly fill the space, it would also prevent any possible ‘drumming’ of the panels from vibration. Cuts easily once cured. In fact it looks very much like the Celcon panel infills and is most likely the same stuff.
I considered spray foam but you’d want to do it with proper-sized bottles and sprayers rather than cans (you’d need loads of cans and a lot of the expanding foam is not “closed cell” which is what you need for insulation). The trouble with spraying is firstly it needs to be warm while you do it (typically the bottles need to be put in a container of warm water or suchlike) and I was doing this mid-winter so the temperature was an issue. Also, it is apparently very easy to overspray in the tight areas which can result in the van metalwork bulging out because of the pressure. I think there’s more skill required to do spray foam than it might seem.
@@Vandemonium Herer is a spray foam product that is sold here in the states. It has less force as the foam expands to fill gaps, preventing warping. www.touch-n-foam.com/no-warp.html
@@tammyjilly @Vandemonium One of the big issues with foam is trying to get it out (Should you ever need to); it's a total bugger and makes a complete mess. Best used in places you know you will NEVER need to get it back out of.
Nicely done, you've got a lot more patience than me! One quick thought, from someone who knows absolutely nothing about it, would there be an benefit in marking the insulation with what wires run under it? Just thinking ahead to if you were trying to diagnose a wiring fault, it may be difficult to remember what ran where? Although I guess you could just look back at the videos, so maybe not such a great idea after all... (told you I knew nothing about it)
It is a good point but there's not an awful lot of wiring all told and it only goes to those two spots at the back of the van so I'm assuming (!) that any fault should be obvious. Ha!
That's why there will be a vapour barrier round the entire inside of the van (so far as is practicable) to prevent moisture from reaching the sides and the insulation. It will be entirely isolated in its own little pockets of air.
So now that you have covered all the metal with insulation, Mr CTC, Greg Virgoe releases his sound deadening video. Still, the part about why air ducts have stamped patterns was fascinating. Those ribs were something I noticed without understanding why they were there.
I remember that, and I remember thinking "How in the heck would that tiny bit here and another there actually work? Looks stupid." But, not being anywhere close to an expert, I kept my mouth shut. Now Greg has explained that what you appear to have done was probably very effective. Once again proving that being stupid is OK as long as you don't open your mouth and prove it.
you might want to move it to a nearby location as it is a power point, not a cigar lighter socket, a cig lighter socket will have two little clips inside to grab the burner, a power point simply has a brassy disk at the bottom. It will come in handy for charging your phone, tablet and your internet dongle.
I’m curious why you wouldn’t just use spray foam inside all the funny shaped holes and such rather than trying to cut up little bits of insulation and stuffing it in? Seems like your method would not only be time consuming but would likely also not fill in every air gap in those pillars?
I did consider that but you have to do an awful lot of tedious masking off to stop the spray sticking to bits you don't want it to. Also, spray foam is not ideal in tight spots because it can expand to the point where it deforms the metal, and it's also impossible (effectively) to remove in case you need access. I wouldn't have wanted to pay for it to be done so I'd have done it myself and that's messy and requires quite warm ambient temperatures, which we don't currently have!
Vandemonium ah yes, that stuff can be a little hard to control... and heaven forbid you get it anywhere you don’t intend because it doesn’t come off! I think what you did was a fine job. Cutting and shaping the insulation for such a vehicle is not easy... I look forward to the next vlog
Hi David, Love the wall and roof, gonna be well insulated and warm ... what would concern me more if I walked your road, would be the flooring ... an yet perhaps that is for another episode. With all the work you are doing are you missing that you floors could be a 'heat sink' ... not an expert by any means, just registering a concern kindest regards ... Dave.
gonna check .... but I am sure you have thought about it ... top tip a good duck down sleeping bag and all that card board under the bed .... or a nice warm friend ....
Hi David. I was suggesting to a friend that he should take a look at the cruising the cut channel, and this one as he was once a keen camper owner. But he has posed a question that I think I have to put to you as I don't know, the answer! "Why are you going to great lengths to create your own camper, when you could buy one off the shelf?". Your brief thoughts please when you get a mo. Ta.
Because ready-made ones are fantastically expensive and I simply don't have the cash. It's cheaper to make your own plus I get the enjoyment of a project that I can (hopefully!) get some satisfaction from and an interesting learning experience.
Insulation has been a focal point for me. I know this video was done a few years ago and perhaps things have changed. I wonder if David or anyone else can explain why spray-in insulation isn't used in some/many of those places.
I would have tried spray foam but the canisters needed to be kept warm and it was mid-winter. Apart from that, you have to be careful not to overspray in the gaps between panels and the expansion of the foam can push the metal out of shape. Also, it's pretty much impossible to remove later (albeit the same could be said for my insulation panels given how much glue I used)
@@Vandemonium PS. I just now finished watching Season 4 of 'Cruising.' Having watched all of them, I now have no idea what to do with all this extra time I have...
@@Vandemonium But of course! Only this time, here on UA-cam to see the ones I missed over on Prime! You are an excellent, articulate, knowledgable presenter; I only wish I could take advantage of it, but being a poor retiree in the States, alas, I cannot. So I live vicariously through your journeys.
Thanks for another great video David. I have a question for you... why have you decided not to use spray foam insulation in those "hard to reach" areas? I know it's very messy to deal with but would fill all of the nooks and crannies that the loft insulation will not fill. Also, have you taken it for a drive after you've completed the install of the insulation? I'll bet it's going to be much quieter... Cheers from South Carolina, USA. Barrett
I did consider that but you have to do an awful lot of tedious masking off to stop the spray sticking to bits you don't want it to. Also, spray foam is not ideal in tight spots because it can expand to the point where it deforms the metal, and it's also impossible (effectively) to remove in case you need access. I wouldn't have wanted to pay for it to be done so I'd have done it myself and that's messy and requires quite warm ambient temperatures, which we don't currently have!
You said you wrapped the loft insurlation in plastic on the side doors due to lock leaking. Did you have same problem on other sliding door and rear doors?
I don't recall what I did with the back doors but I wrapped the fluffy insulation in a plastic bag where I put it under the locks in the sliding doors.
11:30 Great shaving I will have to say! And thanks for speeding things up because the .. sound of a knife shaving into that material is pretty unbearable.
The bit by the cigarette lighter. Have you had any mechanical problems with the car? I´m thinking about bying the Citroen Jumper/dispatch 2011ish and use it as a camper.
There shouldn't be (I hope) enough current draw to the socket to overheat the wires, even surrounded by insulation. It'll likely just have a USB adapter in it, supplying a 1A and a 2A USB socket so not much. The only issue with the van so far was a faulty brake light detector switch somewhere in the dashboard that caused it to flash up an alarming "ABS Failure" warning but it was just the switch which is a £16 part from Toyota (plus the cost of diagnosis and having the switch replaced at a garage, which was rather more...)
If you need to make awkward templates that need to be finished. Make the template or measurements as you did, then use a 90degree square and a guide at the depth of your finished thickness and you will have the outside template. I know we are not supposed to mention other channels but Sailrite making a v berth mattress will explain it batter than I. Feel free to delete if this is a naughty post
Am I the only one that loves the sounds when he speeds up the footage?
I giggle every time
I imagine some space aliens speaking to each other.
Love the black cat scooting by 10 minutes in.
So lunch was no doubt a cheese sandwich and a cup of tea, the installation is looking good !!!
I really admire your creativity and tenacity with this project.
Thank you. Wait 'til you see the next one where I chop a hole in the roof... ;-)
You are doing such a magnificent job. Of course we love your meticulous attention to detail. :)
You are very kind, as always! :-)
When seeing all this there is an expression that comes up in my head: Cutting edge technology ;-).
Saying "made a mess on this one" as you hold up cardboard from the box of a toilet......made my morning.
Anyone else see the black cat trotting by at 9:52??? I'm really enjoying the sped up bits, especially when you talk to yourself! Very neat job, gentle sir!
I've remarked on this before, on CTC, that I normally loathe videos that have been sped up. But for some reason, I enjoy them here and Cruising lol.
yep--saw the cat
Good to see your going to be
keep warm. 😊😊.
Very precise work David. Also, very entertaining watching "Recipro-Dave" in action at near light velocity.
If only it were that fast in reality!
Boy do I feel for you. Just started my insulation today and wow is it awkward. Very helpful -thank you!
Thank you David for another great video on the van converting looking forward to the next episode.
Cheers Mark
By now I know why so many people just spray-foam their vans, that endless cutting and measureing will many of the drive nuts!
Big respect for your work, you`re really a perfectionist!
Thx for the vid!
:-)
Weirdly, I quite enjoy sitting in the van trimming all the panels, it's quite calming and relaxing. Foam would certainly be easier to get into all the fiddly bits but comes with its own set of problems.
You have managed to make insulating a van look interesting. Good job!
Haha, thank you!
Tedious work, but your perseverance paid off.
Thanks for showing us how it’s done.
Good Luck
When building in metal curves are better than right-angles because the corner of a right-angle is a stress-point. As was found out when the Comet airplane crashed.
Good point!
I think I know what you are going to be using for a loo after watching you shape the cardboard template. Great vlog David.
Haha well spotted. I knew somebody would!
Your patience and attention to detail are beyond admirable...Nice work!!
Thank you
What really impresses me is the speed with which you work, that’s one hell of a lot of caffeine to get hand speeds that fast !!!! :)
All those Government warnings about energy drinks - pah! Look how useful they are when cutting board! ;-)
In a video about insulating a van i would have never thought that i would be looking at a mobile toilet cardboard. :)
:-)
As usual, very thorough and explicit instructions for the "van converter." I'm sure you'll enjoy touring in this cosy conversion.
Thank you
After thoroughly enjoying your Cruising the Cut vlog I've just found this one and am quite excited to see how all this turns out. I have to say you are most creative in your methods to achieve warmness.
Welcome aboard!
it's going to be toastie warm in this van, looking good.
Thank you. And cool in the summer too, I hope. Cheers!
That moment when you realize a British van has better insulation than your Canadian apartment.
Van looks really good!
Hi David,
Really enjoying your work on the van conversion. Your cardboard template work with the cellutex reminds me very much of putting a laminate floor (Pergo for your American readers) down in our house on the first floor. Lots of cutting, taping and muttering to get the template to fit nicely around the rooms. I very much look forward to when you get around to putting down the floor and installing the walls and ceiling.
Thanks Doug!
Thanks Doug. I'm looking forward to that too!
You just gotta love compound curves
Or not!
David, I know this is 5 years ago and your template method worked just fine, but having done this myself I was amazed by a method of using a 'ticking stick' to create a template and would recommend searching for one the few videos on here that describe this technique as I think you'll find it interesting and probably have cause to use it at some point in the future.
Ha! ... Horses for courses I guess .... Respect to all of you who 'can' so that those of us who 'can't' can enjoy 'watching' the process ;-)
Your cutting techniques are admirable. A safety tip -Always cut away from your hands. Never position any part of your hand so the blade is cutting towards it. If the blade were to slip or suddenly the blade cuts too much you could really hurt yourself.
Howard M-B - so true. I nearly cut my thumb off as a kid when a knife slipped. I still have mild nerve problems with it 35 years later. Safety first but when you are young you don’t know/care.
You have done a very good job here, actually an excellent job.
a coping saw would been handy. cuts those curves easier.
Once again behind the 8-ball but as a sidebar I decided to join into the fun and subscribed to Vandemonium. By chance did you measure the exact dimensions on the Celotex insulation board. You could have an e-book and sold it for a few pounds maybe?
I didn't! I don't think there are many people doing conversions on these vans though.
Hi again just realised I said RIP insulation and meant PIR not to confuse anyone.
I'm guessing your van is parked near your mooring. Can't wait to see you give vanlife a try!
It's "conveniently at hand", shall we say? I'm looking forward to some weekends in the van too!
David that has to be the definition of a fiddly job. Once you have all the bits of celotex sorted for size are you going to ‘bond’ them together on their abutting edges to prevent air circulation? Any gaps will make an effective thermal bridge.
I don't think they would, on the basis that air in an enclosed space is actually a good insulator and as the whole of the panelling will be covered with the vapour barrier, that creates an enclosed air space which would retain heat. That said, I have used a low expansion adhesive foam to adhere them and squirted a fair bit of that around any gaps so it will take up some of the slack.
I've just come across this channel of yours, from watching your cruising the cut channel and I've found these first few videos fascinating and addictive. Not only do I love narrowboats and want to live on one, when funds allow, but the other thing I'd love to have is a campervan or a caravan. You are living my dream life, LOL. I never realised that a campervan had to have insulation in the sides, behind all the cupboards and things. Do other campervan builders put insulation in all the 'ribs' of the van? I drive a van for a living, so I can understand how fiddly it was to cut the insulation to fill all those areas between the ribs. Being a bit OCD about getting things cut precisely, I'd be the same with those celotex sheets and it's easy to cut, so why not. Looks like you've done a great job so far anyway.
By the way, I'm glad you didn't use an angle grinder on those metal strips on the floor ply lining. The sparks would of embedded in your paintwork, which would of left lots of rust spots in it and felt rough to the touch. They even embed themselves in glass and do the same thing. I look forward to watching the rest of the videos.
Martin.
A second thought: the sticky back stuff you put up behind the boat stove... after you’ve gotten all your bits of board in the van, what about covering the entire inside with the thin sticky back stuff? Perhaps the price of it makes it unfavourable... but it would work well to hold in all the bits and block any air gaps :)
That stuff is very expensive but there will be a vapour barrier using another foil-based product stuck to all the surfaces and taped to make a continuous block for any air.
Jeez David, you'll be so warm in there in the depth of winter, you'll be down to your Superman boxers! 😮🙈
Naked campervanning! It's a whole new, pay-per-view channel ;-)
Michelangelo worked in marble. David worked in insulation.
Your getting there mate
I've just discovered your channel and I love it. I have a van that I'm going to convert, hopefully. I discovered you from rickvanman, I like him also. You remind me of Hugh Grant !!!!!!!
I'll take that comparison!! Cheers
Hopefully before you start spray foaming the Celotex, you cover the wheel Arches and bottom of the side walls edge of the floor with 1 or 2 layers of the Sound Deadening. Not only will it make working in the van far more pleasant, but it will also protect the metalwork when you start making a mess - and you make a mess - the foam may be sold as more manageable, but really only by those using it every day.
The foam I'm using is a low expansion adhesive, not one of those hugely expanding filler foams, so there will be relatively little mess (and I know that because I've now done it)
Good work 👍
You can use a bread knife on cellatex for some of the tricky shapes. Works really well 👍
Thank you!
The "speeded up" bits are fun! My, but you are meticulous, but I guess my impatience is showing. Have you ever considered "Brain Surgery?
Just to let you know the cans come with a 8 inch directional tube to dispense the insulation where you need it. The insulation expands so little is needed. Hope this might help.
Hi. Thanks. I've bought the "gun applicator" version which provides a bit more control. Cheers
I love your camper van looks very cosy
Thank you
You will not stop the heat being lost by conduction via the exposed metalwork. Curious to know why you haven't used Spray Foam for the awkward-to-access parts.
When you come to fitting out, bear in mind that you can make lightweight rigid panels using a wooden frame sandwiched by two pieces of formica and squirt spray foam in the void. I used it when fitting out a folding caravan.
Yes, absolutely, there will always be bits of the van that lose heat - not least the windows as well as those odd bits of metal. But they will be covered as far as possible. I like your panel idea, intriguing!
Just for interest sake. Have you ever considered canned spray foam insulation to fill in small crevices and voids. Its available here in US (hope so in UK) and I have used it on my van to good results since it is going to be top covered anyway. Good job. Love your vlogs.
Hi. Thanks. I covered this in a reply to an earlier comment (scroll down!) but cheers
This is going to be the best insulated Van at least in Britain
The sun was beaming down the other day; van metal was hot, inside was cool. Perfect!
Did you have a winter trip to Nordkapp planned when you did the insulation ?
Ha! No, just Wales!
David, your end result should give you a fantastic noise barrier for recording your journey with the dash-cam. Worst of it is if you should fall in love with an opera singer, become stone deaf, and respond accordingly.
Well let's pray that doesn't happen, eh?!
You can use vermiculite as insulation it would pour down the back of those holes really easily it's that gold shiny stuff you get from the garden centre
I looked at vermiculite but from what I read it is very good at absorbing water which is not really ideal for an insulator in a metal van. Better to have water-resistant materials so they don't soak it up like a sponge. I may have entirely misunderstood this, of course.
I love the way you say insulation
I'm not sure how else one would say it?!! :-)
David
Hopefully you've allowed for where the wiring will fit. Looking great so far.
Cheers
Yes, wiring is in my mind, hopefully all will come good.
all crooks and grannies! stuffed! lmao good job.
hi there... lovely clear video. I'm proceeding to work on my VW T4 but not nearly ready to insulate. I have seen a mechanic using sound insulation which is sold for the vehicle industry and I know he is happy with the results I'm not sure if it provides thermal qualities as well as sound. This is the first time I've seen the use of RIP (Celotex). I use a lot of this material in a building environment and have much experience cutting and fitting etc
and am aware that ventilation is very important to eliminate reaching the dew point (condensation). My question is has it been successful?. Techniques that I use when pieces are joined is the use of foil tape to eliminate the loss of heat through the gaps I also use expanding foam in those awkward spaces rather than stuffing with loft style insulation. Many thanks.
Yes, it works and as I think I showed in subsequent videos, I also used spray foam around the edges as well as fluffy insulation for hard-to-reach areas. Crucially, the entire insulated area is covered with an impermeable vapour barrier to ensure moist air cannot reach the metal and thus can be dissipated through controlled ventilation (ceiling fan, side window etc)
Was that a cameo from Batman? Sue and I thought we saw him go by when you were doing your speeded up sawing
Yes it was :-)
Just a thought about tools. Have you tried using a Japanese pull saw?
If not then can I suggest that you give one a try, I have found the cuts a lot smoother and straighter, the effort less and the satisfaction improved.
I don't know what one of those is but I shall google it straight away!
A bit of a concern with that stuff blowing around and finding its way through the cracks at speed. Not great to breath! I’d seal every hole with clear tape or rubberized spray or something. Be mindful of that stuff on your first few drives David. Great videos!
The entire van is going to have a vapour barrier lining so none of the insulation will be able to go anywhere :-)
Well David, it is winter and progress seems to be a little slow. And in addition to doing the van project you probably have paid assignments. But then when we get to spring/summer/autumn time you are cruising the cut (not all of the time) so I wonder when this project will be finished?`I guess the insulation is about done now and it has been a time-consuming task. But the next steps will hopefully move along faster, good luck! :)
It is slow indeed, it's been cold, wet and not conducive to van building! But it'll be done by May :-)
I hope you make it by may, of course it depends on the scale of the project but if you have the amount of free time required it will be done! :-)
Wonder if spray expanding foam would have been an option
Technically, yes, but you have to keep the foam bottles warm while doing it and I was doing this outside in the middle of winter. Plus if you’re not careful, the expansion can push bits of the metal out of shape if you stick too much in.
Hi, because I’m not conversant with your insulation properties, can you elaborate on whether your insulation has any possible fire hazard with your 12v power socket in the rear. The socket looked like the metal was not covered up 100% hence my query. Thanks. David
I hope not but I'm toying with bringing the wiring and socket out anyway which should alleviate any issue I hope.
Yes, I was immediately concerned about potential fire hazard as well. Almost everything burns when enough current surges through it.
Can I ask why you only put patches of the silver stuff on the insides of the van instead of covering it all before you put insulation on...??
Because that stuff simply dampens down the "tinnyness" of the panels and reduces "boominess" as you drive (apparently - I wasn't sure if it was needed since it would all be insulated but was assured by someone who'd tried it with and without that it was definitely better with). You only need to cover about 20-25% of the panel for it to have the required effect. Any more produces little extra result for much extra cost. It's not a sound insulation method.
Vandemonium ok and thanks for the reply..,
If EVER there was a Van 'Over-Engineered' Yours takes first prize ...... All vans should have stuck to the Mk1 Transit Formula and just added the more reliable Mechanicals .... So simple to insulate and work on .... Just watching your video's wears me out ... I'd HATE to be doing all that 'Fussing-and-Farting About' .....No reflection on You Dave .... You have the patience of a Saint! :-)
Weirdly, I'm rather enjoying the fiddliness of it all. It's very zen-like and therapeutic to sit in the back of the van pondering what bit to do next and gently finessing the insulation!
Hi Richard. You're quite right, cutting the board does produce a lot of tiny plastic bits, which I hadn't anticipated when I began. I've tried to pick up as much of the mess as I can but would definitely try to cut in an enclosed space with a sweepable floor if I did it again.
Uh... I'm a little scared of insulating the back of the cigarette lighter socket and the wiring leading to it. I'm hoping you never plug anything high-power into it because high current heats up wiring. (Maybe you know this, but I'm just saying in case you don't.) The heating can sometimes be worse where the wire joins the socket and where socket metal meets plug metal. The latter particularly gets worse with oxidization, just so you know.
Anyway, that's some pretty difficult and clever work, getting all that insulation into the tubes. I can readily imagine it, including all the scratches and pokes. And I know none of those angles are quite 90 degrees! XD
Greetings from Canada, have you thought about spraying some sort of anti-rust product inside the panels and doors while you have them open. All that insulation might trap moisture and create a problem down the road (pun intended).
Cheers
Hi. Thanks. The insulation will be covered by a vapour barrier to prevent moisture from inside the van - mostly me breathing plus moisture from the gas stove - from reaching the insulation so any moisture in there will only be that which is there at the moment I seal it all up, and that should be minimal. Cheers
Just a thought, if there’s a ‘next time’. What about using that aerosol expanding foam you see in B&Q and various builders merchants. This having lots of locked in air bubbles would surely provide reasonable insulation. Also, with it expanding to perfectly fill the space, it would also prevent any possible ‘drumming’ of the panels from vibration. Cuts easily once cured. In fact it looks very much like the Celcon panel infills and is most likely the same stuff.
I’m referring to the restricted voids where access is so difficult. Sorry. Forgot to state that.
I considered spray foam but you’d want to do it with proper-sized bottles and sprayers rather than cans (you’d need loads of cans and a lot of the expanding foam is not “closed cell” which is what you need for insulation). The trouble with spraying is firstly it needs to be warm while you do it (typically the bottles need to be put in a container of warm water or suchlike) and I was doing this mid-winter so the temperature was an issue. Also, it is apparently very easy to overspray in the tight areas which can result in the van metalwork bulging out because of the pressure. I think there’s more skill required to do spray foam than it might seem.
@@Vandemonium Herer is a spray foam product that is sold here in the states. It has less force as the foam expands to fill gaps, preventing warping.
www.touch-n-foam.com/no-warp.html
@@tammyjilly @Vandemonium One of the big issues with foam is trying to get it out (Should you ever need to); it's a total bugger and makes a complete mess. Best used in places you know you will NEVER need to get it back out of.
Great job mate.
Cheers Tony!
Dont forget to put a vapour barrier completely sealed, before fitting the ply.
Fear not, there will be one of those! Cheers
Nicely done, you've got a lot more patience than me! One quick thought, from someone who knows absolutely nothing about it, would there be an benefit in marking the insulation with what wires run under it? Just thinking ahead to if you were trying to diagnose a wiring fault, it may be difficult to remember what ran where? Although I guess you could just look back at the videos, so maybe not such a great idea after all... (told you I knew nothing about it)
It is a good point but there's not an awful lot of wiring all told and it only goes to those two spots at the back of the van so I'm assuming (!) that any fault should be obvious. Ha!
If your van gets condensation will the water drip into the fluffy insulation behind the metal and cause your van to rust from the inside out ?
That's why there will be a vapour barrier round the entire inside of the van (so far as is practicable) to prevent moisture from reaching the sides and the insulation. It will be entirely isolated in its own little pockets of air.
So now that you have covered all the metal with insulation, Mr CTC, Greg Virgoe releases his sound deadening video. Still, the part about why air ducts have stamped patterns was fascinating. Those ribs were something I noticed without understanding why they were there.
I also covered the metal panels with the sound-deadening mat, in vlog 2 I think, prior to adding insulation.
I remember that, and I remember thinking "How in the heck would that tiny bit here and another there actually work? Looks stupid." But, not being anywhere close to an expert, I kept my mouth shut. Now Greg has explained that what you appear to have done was probably very effective. Once again proving that being stupid is OK as long as you don't open your mouth and prove it.
A fair point and one which I am only too prone to falling foul of :-(
Love it.
MAKE SURE YOU DONT HAVE A FIRE FROM THE CIGGIE SOCKET THE SPADES AT THE BACK HAVE A TENDANCY TO GET WARM SO DOES THE BARREL
Good tip. I'm thinking of bringing the lighter socket out of there as it happens, because I realised it will be in the way of the back of the bed.
you might want to move it to a nearby location as it is a power point, not a cigar lighter socket, a cig lighter socket will have two little clips inside to grab the burner, a power point simply has a brassy disk at the bottom. It will come in handy for charging your phone, tablet and your internet dongle.
Cheers
I’m curious why you wouldn’t just use spray foam inside all the funny shaped holes and such rather than trying to cut up little bits of insulation and stuffing it in? Seems like your method would not only be time consuming but would likely also not fill in every air gap in those pillars?
I did consider that but you have to do an awful lot of tedious masking off to stop the spray sticking to bits you don't want it to. Also, spray foam is not ideal in tight spots because it can expand to the point where it deforms the metal, and it's also impossible (effectively) to remove in case you need access. I wouldn't have wanted to pay for it to be done so I'd have done it myself and that's messy and requires quite warm ambient temperatures, which we don't currently have!
Vandemonium ah yes, that stuff can be a little hard to control... and heaven forbid you get it anywhere you don’t intend because it doesn’t come off! I think what you did was a fine job. Cutting and shaping the insulation for such a vehicle is not easy... I look forward to the next vlog
Thank you. In the next one, I cut a hole in the roof!
Hi David,
Love the wall and roof, gonna be well insulated and warm ... what would concern me more if I walked your road, would be the flooring ... an yet perhaps that is for another episode. With all the work you are doing are you missing that you floors could be a 'heat sink' ... not an expert by any means, just registering a concern
kindest regards ... Dave.
Not quite sure what you mean but I talked briefly about the floor in a prior video, either the previous one or the one before that. Cheers
gonna check .... but I am sure you have thought about it ... top tip a good duck down sleeping bag and all that card board under the bed .... or a nice warm friend ....
I have a lovely sleeping bag that I took up a mountain once, which should be suitable!
👍 thanks again ! Good job !
Hi David. I was suggesting to a friend that he should take a look at the cruising the cut channel, and this one as he was once a keen camper owner. But he has posed a question that I think I have to put to you as I don't know, the answer! "Why are you going to great lengths to create your own camper, when you could buy one off the shelf?". Your brief thoughts please when you get a mo. Ta.
Because ready-made ones are fantastically expensive and I simply don't have the cash. It's cheaper to make your own plus I get the enjoyment of a project that I can (hopefully!) get some satisfaction from and an interesting learning experience.
Vandemonium Yep, exactly the answer I expected. Plus, when you do it yourself, you know it's done properly!
Haha, I wouldn't go that far ;-)
Cheers David
Is the vans factory heat going to be enough or will you be installing another heat source?
I'm installing a Propex Heatsource 2000 (warm air / propane based) heater.
when this is al done its going to be a very good faraday cage.
Because of the aluminum foil on the insulation? That’s not gonna block anything more than the metal box it’s snuggled up against already does...
Van's are notorious for leaking, I used several for all day jobs for years. Hope yours never leaks.
Two years down the line and it's not leaking yet!
Insulation has been a focal point for me. I know this video was done a few years ago and perhaps things have changed. I wonder if David or anyone else can explain why spray-in insulation isn't used in some/many of those places.
I would have tried spray foam but the canisters needed to be kept warm and it was mid-winter. Apart from that, you have to be careful not to overspray in the gaps between panels and the expansion of the foam can push the metal out of shape. Also, it's pretty much impossible to remove later (albeit the same could be said for my insulation panels given how much glue I used)
@@Vandemonium PS. I just now finished watching Season 4 of 'Cruising.' Having watched all of them, I now have no idea what to do with all this extra time I have...
Watch them all again! Hahaha ;-)
@@Vandemonium But of course! Only this time, here on UA-cam to see the ones I missed over on Prime! You are an excellent, articulate, knowledgable presenter; I only wish I could take advantage of it, but being a poor retiree in the States, alas, I cannot. So I live vicariously through your journeys.
Why do I have a feeling that you're successfully ahead of videos and your 'cruising the roads'.
Haha, I am ahead of the videos but believe me, not by much! It's been too chilly to do much in the van!
haha! Can't wait till you start touring in it!
Neither can I :-)
Great socks
Thank you. Very warm!
Thanks for another great video David. I have a question for you... why have you decided not to use spray foam insulation in those "hard to reach" areas? I know it's very messy to deal with but would fill all of the nooks and crannies that the loft insulation will not fill. Also, have you taken it for a drive after you've completed the install of the insulation? I'll bet it's going to be much quieter... Cheers from South Carolina, USA. Barrett
I did consider that but you have to do an awful lot of tedious masking off to stop the spray sticking to bits you don't want it to. Also, spray foam is not ideal in tight spots because it can expand to the point where it deforms the metal, and it's also impossible (effectively) to remove in case you need access. I wouldn't have wanted to pay for it to be done so I'd have done it myself and that's messy and requires quite warm ambient temperatures, which we don't currently have!
hi david another great video 10+ bob in derby
Ta
You need to get a rasp to take off tiny amounts
Ta
Very tidy cutting, where did you learn your skills?
Making it up as I go along :-)
So you were just basically stuffing around. Great video anyway bro.
:-)
You said you wrapped the loft insurlation in plastic on the side doors due to lock leaking. Did you have same problem on other sliding door and rear doors?
I don't recall what I did with the back doors but I wrapped the fluffy insulation in a plastic bag where I put it under the locks in the sliding doors.
Hi, any issues with wires, connectors and the fluffy insulation? I’m thinking of bridge terminals and risk of fire?
I didn't use a lot of the fluffy stuff, it was mostly Celotex. However no wire joins or ends were made within the insulated areas of the van.
Vandemonium cheers.
11:30 Great shaving I will have to say! And thanks for speeding things up because the .. sound of a knife shaving into that material is pretty unbearable.
Hahaha yes
I am so sorry I have forgotten that you have to listen to it in normal speed haha!
I say ol bean ..thats rather fetching saywhat..fabbo in every direction.. and i di say those flooffy sheepy bits are quite fetching ...😁pip pips
Wibbly wobbly timey whimy......stuff.....
But what if the wires get hot and ignite the insulation?
It's a while since I did this video so you're going to have to remind me which wires you're referring to!
The bit by the cigarette lighter. Have you had any mechanical problems with the car? I´m thinking about bying the Citroen Jumper/dispatch 2011ish and use it as a camper.
There shouldn't be (I hope) enough current draw to the socket to overheat the wires, even surrounded by insulation. It'll likely just have a USB adapter in it, supplying a 1A and a 2A USB socket so not much. The only issue with the van so far was a faulty brake light detector switch somewhere in the dashboard that caused it to flash up an alarming "ABS Failure" warning but it was just the switch which is a £16 part from Toyota (plus the cost of diagnosis and having the switch replaced at a garage, which was rather more...)
nice job!
Ta
If you need to make awkward templates that need to be finished. Make the template or measurements as you did, then use a 90degree square and a guide at the depth of your finished thickness and you will have the outside template.
I know we are not supposed to mention other channels but Sailrite making a v berth mattress will explain it batter than I.
Feel free to delete if this is a naughty post
No problem! Thanks for the suggestion :-)
lunch time, cheese sandwich?
Always
Nice insulation, but how are you going to replace the bulbs when they blow?
Unscrew the lightbulb block (from behind), remove it, change the bulb, put it back :-)
Vandemonium but will you be able to do this? Looks as if you're making life difficult.
Even if I needed to pull the insulation out around the lights, it would be easy to do.