BUY in US: www.rmleathersupply.com/products/renia-aquilim-315-water-based-glue?variant=29862688555117 BUY in EUROPE: amzn.to/3dGlKeP All of my recommended lists are here: www.amazon.com/shop/leathertoolz
I tried both, they are very similar. However, aquilim 315 is still somehow sticky after it completely dried. It might make your finger dirty when you try rub off the dried glue on the spreader. Ecostick doesn't has this issue. I haven't test which is stronger. But both are strong enough to glue leathers togethers. I would prefer ecostick. However, as I live in Germany, it is expensive to import it from other country. So I mainly use aquilim 315, which I can find in many online shop here.
Hopefully you’ve figured this out within 2 years, but if not, here’s a few tips. First and foremost, glue film thickness is paramount. Too thin, particularly porous surfaces like leather, is not good. However, with water based adhesive like 315, you’d be surprised how thin it needs to be, think Saran Wrap thin, and only one coat. The silicone spreaders like in this vid can’t smear the glue in hard enough, but plastic Japanese spreaders do (Yonezawa has the best). Thick glue film will absolutely mess up your burnishing. Sanding with course sand paper (220ish grit) and working up to 600 knocks the glue down. Then what works for me is to polish with bees wax, sand with 800 followed by canvas, more bees wax, 1000 grit, wet the edge, and finally bees wax and canvas polish. You can still use Tokonole at this point,which helps to bury any tackiness left from the glue.
In Brazil🇧🇷 it is not sold, I bought it today on eBay from France and I want to try it to tell my Brazilian friends. We have other national water-based glues. But this one seems to be the best.
Love the 315. Renia’s Colle de Cologne is my favorite solvent based adhesive and the additional primers or catalyst make it glue anything from PUR, TPR, oil soaked EVA, or even tits on a bull.
BUY in US: www.rmleathersupply.com/products/renia-aquilim-315-water-based-glue?variant=29862688555117
BUY in EUROPE: amzn.to/3dGlKeP
All of my recommended lists are here: www.amazon.com/shop/leathertoolz
I think I love this glue. am gonna buy it. thanks for great video. I was looking for a good water based glue for leather. I think this is gonna be.
Great videos, all very informative, very I'm depth
Glad you like them!
Nice review, thank you... where did you get your smaller hammer/smasher from?
I love 315. Have you tried the GL rubber cement?
Glue works best when dealing with shear movement than peeling
Is hirschkleiber a glue? I thought it was just for stiffening toe puffs and heel counters in shoe making.
where do you get this hammer/smasher you use for hitting the leather once glued?
I hope someday you can make video comparison aquilim 315 with ecostick 1816B
I plan to buy the Ecostick. Do you think is good?
I tried both, they are very similar. However, aquilim 315 is still somehow sticky after it completely dried. It might make your finger dirty when you try rub off the dried glue on the spreader. Ecostick doesn't has this issue. I haven't test which is stronger. But both are strong enough to glue leathers togethers. I would prefer ecostick. However, as I live in Germany, it is expensive to import it from other country. So I mainly use aquilim 315, which I can find in many online shop here.
Can this be used on cork and felt to metal (brass mostly) mating or is it just for leather?
Thank you for the recommendation. How do you deal with glue residues when burnishing? Thank you. Chris
Hopefully you’ve figured this out within 2 years, but if not, here’s a few tips. First and foremost, glue film thickness is paramount. Too thin, particularly porous surfaces like leather, is not good. However, with water based adhesive like 315, you’d be surprised how thin it needs to be, think Saran Wrap thin, and only one coat. The silicone spreaders like in this vid can’t smear the glue in hard enough, but plastic Japanese spreaders do (Yonezawa has the best). Thick glue film will absolutely mess up your burnishing. Sanding with course sand paper (220ish grit) and working up to 600 knocks the glue down. Then what works for me is to polish with bees wax, sand with 800 followed by canvas, more bees wax, 1000 grit, wet the edge, and finally bees wax and canvas polish. You can still use Tokonole at this point,which helps to bury any tackiness left from the glue.
@@blackpineleatherco Thank you for taking the time! Cheers, Chris
In Brazil🇧🇷 it is not sold, I bought it today on eBay from France and I want to try it to tell my Brazilian friends. We have other national water-based glues. But this one seems to be the best.
Does it work with latex ??
Love the 315. Renia’s Colle de Cologne is my favorite solvent based adhesive and the additional primers or catalyst make it glue anything from PUR, TPR, oil soaked EVA, or even tits on a bull.
can you put european link
Do u think the glue (white creamy) that they use for table tennis bat is good for leathercraft? because I use them since they're much cheaper
Hi! Which brand and product is it? I can look it up for you
@@leathertoolz I use one of local product here in indonesia. But the name is Glue and Spin rubber cement. See if u can find it.
You talk too much abòut everything else. Concentrate upon the main topic.
This is the second time your nasally voice has made me switch off, Far too much talking. FFS do the review and stop selling.