i am very grateful to both lisa sorrell and mark dawber for sharing this video - it has transformed the way that i make shoes and teach others to make shoes...the hard part is waiting for 3 days! i've tried your method with all sorts of rubber soling materials and most seem to be permanently bonded - hurray!
Thank you, Sharon, for the kind comments - and for the part you had in the design of this boot! If you look carefully you might see the "Sunburst T-Strap" from your "Crafting Handmade Shoes Book" in the boot. I started with the Sunburst design in 2010 and after ten years of modifying my lasts and the design I finally have the more-or-less final version of what I call "The Pacific Northwest Geezer Shoe". The original Sunburst pair, on which I glued a Vibram Super Newflex sole, is still in daily use as a house shoe and is holding up very well. So things have come full circle! Wow!
This is a very good tutorial on how to bond two pieces of work together. If you think on a lower level, what good does it do to take fresh cement from one closed container and seal it into another within the finished piece itself? The method of letting the glue dry and reactivation is sound advice by Mr. Dawber. Loved the LLamas, Thumbs up!
The basic story for the sole press is in a video on Olivier Rabath's UA-cam channel. I adapted his design to the scrap I had on hand, and modified from there. I wanted something like the pneumatic diaphragm on the expensive commercial machines or on Tim Skyrme's shop-air powered press; the 8 1/2 inch boat fender suspended from the top platen took care of that. I copied the top part of my wooden last jack modified from Alan Zerbovnik"s design (Shoeschool.Com) and mounted it on a piece of scrap plywood to make the carrier that slides into the press. If I had seen the press you are selling back then I never would have gone through all this, interesting as it was! I have since gotten the idea that if one simply suspended a pad from an overhead beam by an hydraulic or pneumatic cylinder you could leave the shoe on the last jack where it was already, move the jack under the pad, and press away. I'll never get around to trying this, so the idea is up for grabs.
Mark, thank you for your contribution and for commenting. I'm so glad you saw the video; I didn't think to notify you that I was using it this month which was quite thoughtless of me. Thanks also for the sole press explanation. You could probably tell by the grumpy tone of my text screens that I was dreading the inevitable questions about how yours was built. :)
I honestly don't know. I just turn it on and wave it over the adhesive, but I keep one hand near what I'm heating. If my hand is too hot then the adhesive is too hot also.
i am very grateful to both lisa sorrell and mark dawber for sharing this video - it has transformed the way that i make shoes and teach others to make shoes...the hard part is waiting for 3 days! i've tried your method with all sorts of rubber soling materials and most seem to be permanently bonded - hurray!
Sharon, it's so good to your experience on this issue! Thank you!
Thank you, Sharon, for the kind comments - and for the part you had in the design of this boot! If you look carefully you might see the "Sunburst T-Strap" from your "Crafting Handmade Shoes Book" in the boot. I started with the Sunburst design in 2010 and after ten years of modifying my lasts and the design I finally have the more-or-less final version of what I call "The Pacific Northwest Geezer Shoe". The original Sunburst pair, on which I glued a Vibram Super Newflex sole, is still in daily use as a house shoe and is holding up very well. So things have come full circle! Wow!
This is a very good tutorial on how to bond two pieces of work together. If you think on a lower level, what good does it do to take fresh cement from one closed container and seal it into another within the finished piece itself? The method of letting the glue dry and reactivation is sound advice by Mr. Dawber. Loved the LLamas, Thumbs up!
The basic story for the sole press is in a video on Olivier Rabath's UA-cam channel. I adapted his design to the scrap I had on hand, and modified from there. I wanted something like the pneumatic diaphragm on the expensive commercial machines or on Tim Skyrme's shop-air powered press; the 8 1/2 inch boat fender suspended from the top platen took care of that. I copied the top part of my wooden last jack modified from Alan Zerbovnik"s design (Shoeschool.Com) and mounted it on a piece of scrap plywood to make the carrier that slides into the press. If I had seen the press you are selling back then I never would have gone through all this, interesting as it was! I have since gotten the idea that if one simply suspended a pad from an overhead beam by an hydraulic or pneumatic cylinder you could leave the shoe on the last jack where it was already, move the jack
under the pad, and press away. I'll never get around to trying this, so the idea is up for grabs.
Mark, thank you for your contribution and for commenting. I'm so glad you saw the video; I didn't think to notify you that I was using it this month which was quite thoughtless of me. Thanks also for the sole press explanation. You could probably tell by the grumpy tone of my text screens that I was dreading the inevitable questions about how yours was built. :)
can you make a tutorial on fiddle back waists or bevel waists? Something about making sure the patterns are aligned properly to the lasts.
Здравствуйте Лиза!Большое спасибо за видеоматериал.
пожалуйста!
this is amazing - thank you
What temperature is his heat gun set to?
I honestly don't know. I just turn it on and wave it over the adhesive, but I keep one hand near what I'm heating. If my hand is too hot then the adhesive is too hot also.