Great work. You have sharpened many of my .171 NH cutters perfectly. I have a home made diamond sharpener that I use for carbide drill bits. I am going to try your method on some of my .250 cutters.
Hi. I just bought a same grinder you're using and found your Video very helpfull. Thanks for sharing. Could you please tell me what make or type of comparator you are using. I've tried searching on Google but no luck. Thanks
The Comparator i use is one i have created. It has a 10X loupe and lots of measurement markings. look on our website. q1engravers.com/products/comparator-cutter-tip-us?_pos=1&_sid=1506b228e&_ss=r
When you do the tipping cut was the back of the cutter 20 degrees down and 7 degrees away or back? In your video you said one way then switched. I really appreciate your help and bought a unit from you To compliment my universal grinder. I can't wait to compare them. I totally agree that experimentation and patience Is critical. I'm 90% there but still getting some chatter. I have purchased cutters to use of course and to compare. I cut stainless steel and brass so resharpening on site is a must. :)
Sorry for slight error on video. I am not a good editor so I try to do in 1 photo shoot. The back angle is 20º this is the cutter head down. The 7º is the tip angle which is cutter head away from you. This is most critical
I found your video very helpful. I have been engraving for about 10 years and bought a universal cutter. It does everything the Hermes does but I have one question. I notice on my purchased cutters 111/64 .01 the cutting edge is flattened by 30 degrees and then the half faced cutter is cylindrical pointed. I've experimented with half blanks and read the Deckel manual but not clear on that front cut. I tried making the deeper 30 degree face and then round out and blend in a longer cone. It worked Somewhat, I over tipped it so the engraving was a bit larger. I'm on the right track. Any advice would be great. It didn't seem like you made a relief front cut but just went 0-180 Thanks Patrick
Interesting method - but the wrong way to do it. One day I'll put up a video of the correct method - which guarantees precision and a properly sharpened tip.
I believe I said the process was not the Bible version. I have sharpened cutters for about 25 years and sold over a dozen grinder I refurbish. I sharpen for the trade about 2-3 orders per week, so about 25 for customers and at least 5 a week for myself. Have not had a complaint in last 10 years. And those I trained are happy as a lark. Only complaint ever is ending width does not match there expectations. All sharpening folks have a unique way measure tip. I adjust for them and all is well. It only take me about 1 minute to clean, inspect and sharpen a cutter minimum reqd, tip and measure. I would guess your method is not 60 seconds or less. But most importantly did you try my scheme?
@@Q1Engravers That you've done probably thousands pf cutters would suggest you now have honed the skill to do much of it by "feel" and "sight". The "average joe" may only sharpen twice a month - and that's why they need to do it with the Biblical method. Setting the angles and keeping the chuck components fixed and static is principal to this method. The only elements that are moved are the rotary/twisting dials. The cutter itself remains in a static position through all four grinding stages - ensured by firmly clamping the chuck system.
@@brunosmith6925 True I have developed a feel and touch. Have taught about 10 other users that have done well. A grinder is more for a shop that sharpens at least every other day. I often sharpen 5-6 times on the same job. I do appreciate your comments. I would love to see the video you make on the proper way to use the grinder. The oem manual was difficult to follow.
Great work. You have sharpened many of my .171 NH cutters perfectly. I have a home made diamond sharpener that I use for carbide drill bits. I am going to try your method on some of my .250 cutters.
Hi. I just bought a same grinder you're using and found your Video very helpfull. Thanks for sharing. Could you please tell me what make or type of comparator you are using. I've tried searching on Google but no luck. Thanks
The Comparator i use is one i have created. It has a 10X loupe and lots of measurement markings. look on our website. q1engravers.com/products/comparator-cutter-tip-us?_pos=1&_sid=1506b228e&_ss=r
When you do the tipping cut was the back of the cutter 20 degrees down and 7 degrees away or back?
In your video you said one way then switched. I really appreciate your help and bought a unit from you
To compliment my universal grinder. I can't wait to compare them. I totally agree that experimentation and patience
Is critical. I'm 90% there but still getting some chatter. I have purchased cutters to use of course and to compare.
I cut stainless steel and brass so resharpening on site is a must.
:)
Sorry for slight error on video. I am not a good editor so I try to do in 1 photo shoot.
The back angle is 20º this is the cutter head down.
The 7º is the tip angle which is cutter head away from you. This is most critical
Good job. I have a sharpener like that where I can buy the lenses to check the tarada. I am from Spain
I found your video very helpful. I have been engraving for about 10 years and bought a universal cutter.
It does everything the Hermes does but I have one question. I notice on my purchased cutters
111/64 .01 the cutting edge is flattened by 30 degrees and then the half faced cutter is cylindrical pointed. I've experimented with half blanks and read the Deckel manual but not clear on that front cut.
I tried making the deeper 30 degree face and then round out and blend in a longer cone. It worked
Somewhat, I over tipped it so the engraving was a bit larger. I'm on the right track.
Any advice would be great. It didn't seem like you made a relief front cut but just went 0-180
Thanks
Patrick
send me an email and I will send you diagram of a cutter with its angles. fred@q1engravers.com
I purchased a CG-4 in an auction, was wanting to know if there is a website that I could sell the machine.
Thanks
EBay usually. How much you looking for it
Interesting method - but the wrong way to do it. One day I'll put up a video of the correct method - which guarantees precision and a properly sharpened tip.
I believe I said the process was not the Bible version. I have sharpened cutters for about 25 years and sold over a dozen grinder I refurbish. I sharpen for the trade about 2-3 orders per week, so about 25 for customers and at least 5 a week for myself. Have not had a complaint in last 10 years. And those I trained are happy as a lark. Only complaint ever is ending width does not match there expectations. All sharpening folks have a unique way measure tip. I adjust for them and all is well.
It only take me about 1 minute to clean, inspect and sharpen a cutter minimum reqd, tip and measure. I would guess your method is not 60 seconds or less. But most importantly did you try my scheme?
@@Q1Engravers That you've done probably thousands pf cutters would suggest you now have honed the skill to do much of it by "feel" and "sight". The "average joe" may only sharpen twice a month - and that's why they need to do it with the Biblical method. Setting the angles and keeping the chuck components fixed and static is principal to this method. The only elements that are moved are the rotary/twisting dials. The cutter itself remains in a static position through all four grinding stages - ensured by firmly clamping the chuck system.
@@brunosmith6925 True I have developed a feel and touch. Have taught about 10 other users that have done well. A grinder is more for a shop that sharpens at least every other day. I often sharpen 5-6 times on the same job. I do appreciate your comments. I would love to see the video you make on the proper way to use the grinder. The oem manual was difficult to follow.