Just one more thing !! A five finger knuckle shuffle did not make me go blind.It was a virus that ate my retinas away,They're, I said it , now everyone get chooching again.......LOL !!
For those commenters who are having trouble understanding the linguistics of AvE, it really helps to make deductions of the meanings of words through the context of the rest of the phrase. Fortunately, I spent several formative years in western Canada, so I understand the lingo, even speak it under the correct circumstances. It must be said that this guys mastery of the language is bar non superior to ANYONE I have ever encountered. Just poetry. This has become my absolute favorite UA-cam channel.
I spent a better part of a year listening to the EEV Blog feller, AvE has just added a few new words to my lexicon. I don't know who Bob is, but he is a lot of guy's Uncle.
I grew up in the south Appalachians and slang often varies by the hollers so you start to get good at quickly interpreting what people mean till you fully learn their words.
Don't forget that all husband's shops are protected by spell from their wives. Everytime they look inside, nothing is comprehensible, he's safe for now
Those 'cracks' you saw look a lot like knit lines (also called weld lines). It happens where two 'fronts' of molten plastic meet after flowing around an obstruction, which is why it often occurs around holes in injection moulded stuff.
I like it that you explain WHY a machine is good or bad by taking it apart and showing us what is going on inside. This is much more interesting and useful than the usual product demo/evaluation videos. Also, I learned a new word: skookum. What a great word!
4:00 The cracks are actually "knit lines" where plastic flowed around parts of the mold and met back together. It's a normal thing for injection molded parts.
I can't lie, he went down a notch or two not knowing what knit lines are. He speaks with a pretty high authority in a lot of areas and knit lines are very basic.
Those "cracks" in the base are most likely weld lines in the part. Weld lines are where the material flows around an island in the mold (grill hole for example) and meets back up on the other side. Most parts have them somewhere but they are not usually that visible. They can be weak spots particularly with fiber reinforced material because the fibers are not cross linked very well at the weld line and the material may not have fuse back together properly. Severe weld lines can be a result of a poorly designed part, incorrect gating (injection points)in the mold, the molding process (temperatures, pressures, time) incorrect material for the application or poor venting of gases that get trapped inside the mold. Most of the time its from the molder running the process too cool and fast so the cycle time is short as possible which means more $$. I once designed a 40% carbon fiber reinforced thermoplastic polyurethane part and the weld line was so weak you could snap it with your fingers but the rest of it wouldn't break with a hammer.
Also, regarding the anodized aluminum heat sinks... if there was forced air, then yes bare Al would be more efficient by taking advantage of convection. But since there is no forced air, radiation is the primary transfer method, and the anodized surface has emissivity 45% greater than bare metal.
Exactly, this is why almost all of these small board level heatsinks are black anodized aluminum. You actually have to try hard to find ones which are NOT!
"Cracks" in the bottom ventilation slots is a moulding fault called Weld Lines or Knit lines ....Weld lines occur in plastic injection molded parts in the area or plane where two or more streams of material fuse together as the mold cavity fills with material. Injection temperature and pressure not optimised..Or mould too cold ..Thanks GOOGLE..
We called those flow lines. The wiped booger looking crap is called splay which can be from oil. The plastic is toted in gaylords as small pellets coated in oil to keep them from sticking.
But weld lines would show on both sides of the part. Also the gate location seems like it wouldn't cause that (obviously I could be wrong on that, I've only seen the part in a video).
Christopher Parsons I'm still not buying it. It is possible, but based on what I saw I'd expect weld lines in a different place, if at all. I'm an unemployment grocery bagger
+Owen Williams there's more than just pouring plastic into a mould. It's done by a press that shoots 500 to 800 degree F plastic into a tool that's probably the size of your car. The press actually presses the two halves of the tool and one side of the tool is heated while the other half is cooked with water. The valves in the stationary side of the tool open up on timed increments to fill the cavity properly and to keep flow lines in certain areas on the visible surface along with other things. It is a very interesting and complex process.
+Christopher Parsons I understand injection molding, I just would expect any weld lines to be about 2/3rds down those vanes or even pushed into the open space past the vanes based on the gate location. 5 years dog park sanitation worker.
I grew up in a small farm town surrounded by idiots who called me gay for being "smart" and wanting to learn, which made me stop paying attention in school and really drop off the wagon. I've never been excited about learning new things since then... But watching your videos(this one in particular) has actually sparked that back up in me. Thanks man. You rock.
Yo, you'd probably like a channel I just recently found called ZNA Productions, the dude makes stuff that even the farm town idiots would find cool. He kind of reminds me of AvE a bit too although he's younger.
Get yourself into trade school as an electromechanic and get to think like him. Except he has a touch of chemistry and electronics knowledge that's beyond tradesmen level. But still, very attainable.
30:00 Yea the company probably saved 5 cents by omitting it last minute for the 50/50 chance you want the buttons to beep when you push em. I'd be willing to bet that if you went and found one of those 10mm piezoelectric, soldered it in there, your blender buttons now beep at you.
+AvE Those "Cracks" are not "cracks". They are weld lines/ flow lines where the plastic flows around the features in the mold and meets together again. Doesn't mean the mold has cracks.
Ben Wallace but if the manufacturer but in some extra effort by vibration on the mold and keeping the molten plastic hot just a little longer, then the weld lines would not form like that unless it was taking the shape of imperfections in the mold.
I've been in IT (networking, computers), for over 15 years, fancy myself pretty knowledgeable, but I am absolutely *humbled* by your videos. It really puts into perspective that for all I think I know, I know *nothing*, John Snow. Thank you so much for making these, and for your genuine enthusiasm in "nerding out" over cool components, and being rightfully indignant over bad ones. I plan on going through the backlog of every one of your videos. Such great stuff. Thank you so much.
For those that didn't know... the reason the heatsink is anodized black isn't for durability reasons (durability is immaterial in this context). It's because matte black is the best at radiating heat. So in addition to the heatsink cooling by conduction (direct contact with air) and convection (heating the air which rises and pulls new colder air next to it), it also radiates heat (like a lightbulb or the sun). The purpose of a heatsink is of course to remove heat, so every little bit helps. Except, as AvE pointed out, when conduction is the only thing of concern (between two surfaces), then it would be better clear.
+MattsAwesomeStuff This case it's for volatile acids in the kitchen and the skin oil/dirt of the assembler. You can end up with a half mm crust of bad aluminum after four or five years on these things.
AvE, I just wanted to tell you that regardless of what you tear down, it is always entertaining and educational. I work on large electrical / mechanical devices for a living that are fairly expensive. My QC background had me inspecting them as I worked on them a decade ago. Short story long, I lost the curiosity of checking things out. Watching your vids has brought that passion back. Now I find myself rattling off design flaws non-stop to girls half my age at work while getting the fucking dumbest looks when I explain the basics of thermal expansion and contraction on PMMA. Just wanted to say thanks!
+Dirtyharry70585 I think it's more like, "Hey Honey, you know what'd be fun? Me, tearing through that there doohickey!" "The Blendtec? Mister, if you're getting it, then it's mine. If you even scratch it, you're sleeping outside."
Man am I glad I stumbled across this. I know nothing of what you were really talking about or why, but the delivery was awesome. I'll be subscribing just because of your vernacular.
Could that "SP1" missing part in the board possibly be for an optional beeper or speaker that beeps when a button is pressed, or when the blender gets jammed, etc?
Met Chris the blind wood turner at the Uk&I Woodturning Symposium (Sorry AvE) and he is a great guy! He asked one of the exhibitors if they had used a wet brick to sand a piece he was feeling! Had me in stitches, great to see him on my favourite UA-cam channel!
Hi there !! Fantastic first part and as always a right giggle,especially when your inner hacking demon noticed a potential for mischief. This episode even had a shout out to a certain blind tree carcass molester. ( Namely , me !! ) Seriously..Thanks for my shout out.All being well we might just have inspired a couple more people who suffer from certain life issues to get chooching in whatever way floats their boat. As we say in these here parts.... " You are a top bloke !! " Ciao for now !! Chris.
It's a thyristor that's doing the work. You can tell that it's not being rectified because those tiny little puny diodes would never survive the turn-on current (or even the operating current) of the motor. So they HAVE to be switching AC. This also explains why there is an RPM sensor: without that, it's impossible to know well enough what the motor is doing because just plain old phase-cut dimming (which is what a thyristor does) is highly nonlinear and the voltage on your mains is not generally a clean sinewave. Investigative electronics!
Just a note on you first plastic part, that mold is in most cases perfectly fine. It's the setup for the plastic injection that is most likely off (by a lot). Those marks coming from the bosses look like splay, and the stress marks in the vent holes can be caused by improper cooling, bad knitting, and or bad venting of built up gasses, also mold release not enough or to much.
This might be old news now but it looks like that bearing ground also grounds the armature shaft. I'd expect that. Any motor core that is being driven by PWM, including VFD driven 3 phase induction motors, can develop an inductive kick in the armature when the current changes rapidly (PWM turn on/off and brush disconnect). If you don't ground the armature, it may develop a static charge which will eventually arc through the bearings, killing them quickly. Also, I think the unpotted field windings are easier to cool than if they are encapsulated. Since the machine sits on the counter, there isn't as much need for potting that part of the motor. Thanks for all your shows!
if you have any questions about infection holding er injection molding, feel free to ask. I have done some time in the old squeeze and squirt factories. looks like the surface imperfections are due to moisture in the material and the "cracks" in tbe louvresrezar (
I LOVE your videos! By the way, the input choke isn't "for things to not get fried". It is to prevent high frequency switching noise from the FET chopper circuit from feeding back into the power lines of the house. It's called "RF conducted emissions". It's regulated by, in the US, the FCC. Not sure about Canada. But you can't just plug in a high frequency switching device to the house wiring without protecting the rest of the stuff in the house from the noise produced.
I actually work at the Blendtec factory in Orem Utah, and handle all these parts that go in to these blenders every day. We now make the entire motor assembly in house and it is much better. It was way cool watching you take this blender apart knowing I've stood in the exact spot where that blender was assembled. You should get a new one from off the shelves today and have a peak, if you get the chance😉.
+Paul Frederick Meh, doesn't really matter. I am a programmer and internally, there are lots of spelling errors in comments and commit messages. You just stop caring, takes too much work to fix.
Plastic injection molding process tech here. Those arent cracks in the ABS plastic- those are weld lines. Happens every time plastic is forced around an obstacle (in this case the vent holes) and then meets itself on the other side. The mold is not cracked. This is normal.
+intagliode Exactly.. AKA knit lines.Did a google and posted before seeing this..Weld Lines or Knit lines ....Weld lines occur in plastic injection molded parts in the area or plane where two or more streams of material fuse together as the mold cavity fills with material. Injection temperature and pressure not optimised..Or mould too cold ..Thanks GOOGLE..
I mean they are better than say a shark or hoover bagless by a long shot. But they fall short in their price point. Simplicity, miele, and used Kirby all work far better and can be found in the 500 to 700 price range. Honestly I was a huge Dyson fan until I got my simplicity. Way better on all fronts. Better filtration, more durable, better suction, kevlar belt, easy to change the bag, the bag also closes to keep dust contained. I've also not had nearly the issues with clogs I had with my Dyson. I have a dog and wife that both shed year fucking round and endlessly I had to have the Dyson taken apart to clear the clog of hair.
Hey AvE, i just wanted to give a shout out and thanks for the little intermission but about "'Cant' versus WILL". It's guys like you and Chris that inspire other "Do-ers" around the world. When I was still in school for my automotive mechnic schooling, i had met a gentleman by the name of Jay Blake and he is a Pit Crew chief for his own NHRA drag racing team and he is completely blind. Before his accident he used to race as well aa do all the mechanical stuff. Even after his accident, he still is very very hands on with the cars and all the rebuilds and tear-downs. He didnt stop doing what he loved. Sorry i rambled there for a bit, just thought i would share. Love what you're doing and I got my coworkers hooked. Keep wrenching and wrecking
I love the frankness of the video's. As a tool lovin' person it's really cool to see some of these things torn down with actual knowledge about the parts and materials used. Thank you so much for making these, and the laughs along the way! :D
31:00 - I've actually tested precisely this back when I was a wee bugger. The anodizing makes very little difference. I could not measure it. Probably ~0.05degK/W. That nice thermal pad they have there would be ~0.5degK/W
That guy is not COMPLETELY blind. He is "legally blind", meaning that his vision is bad enough to get that status, but he's not entirely blind, he can still see a little bit.
I just love these videos. A very real scents of the situation. When I was a kid, I did the same stuff. I wanted to see how it worked. Thank you for that.
Perhaps worth mentioning that with regard the "heat transfer film" (silpad) between the power device and heatsink [edit: can in some cases not necessarily this] be for electrical isolation - if it didn't need to be electrically isolated then thermal grease and a direct connection [edit: may] be used. Remove the silpad and you're more than likely going to in the best case short the thing out and she go bang [edit: on this device that depends if the rivet is also isolated by way of a plastic or other sleeve/washer, if it's not then it is naturally electrically connected anyway and they used a silpad because maybe it was easier than paste or something, I can't see in the video because I only watch in potato quality]. Also, the heatsink is black because it actually has a considerable effect on the ability of a heatsink to radiate the heat, so you wouldn't want to be stripping all the black off, just at the interface. [edits to stop people who don't read threads before replying ]
I don't think they cared too much for isolating the heatsink on this design because it looks like the MOSFET is riveted directly to the heatsink with an aluminum rivet. And I think the main reason it's anodized is to control corrosion because you don't want crap forming between the block and your part or corrosion forming and falling off into your board.
_"Of tools and workshop stuff... It's like a gas, it just expands to fill any volume."_ Truer words! Converted one of my apartment bedrooms into a workshop type dealy... ya know, hoping to contain the spread, as it were. Even gotst myself a couple fancy dollarstore baskets as distinctly dedicated piles of stuff. And still every now and then tools and accoutrements just decide to tour the rest of my house.
Samuel Ellis bought a refurb 3.5 years ago. She's still chooching along. Went through a few warranty jars, but the design changed each time, and so far, the current one has lasted. Seems like the bearing problem is much better.
It's like stand-up comedy for nerds. You have me laughing most of the way through your episodes with your euphemisms and whatnots. Keep up the great vids!
I just wanted to point something out, the anodized heat sink actually helps in two ways. One it helps protect against electrical conductivity by insulating and second it increases the "emissivity coefficient" to help it absorb radiated heat better. Also the thermal pad between the transistor and heat sink is called a Mica insulator and the reason both are insulated is because if that transistor gets grounded it will turn on.
I've read the comments on injection molding, and they make sense to me. I don't have any experience in injection molding, but I have some in extrusion. The product we produced had an embossed pattern, and used heated wheels to produce it. The after effect of this was that material would accumulate on the embossing wheel after so many hours, regardless of the application of inhibitives like silicone spray or WD-40. The only reason I can come up with is the temperature differential between the temperature required to emboss an acceptable pattern and the melting point of the plastic we were using caused a sort of oxidation that was then deposited on the embossing wheel. Seems to me that, in injection molding, the mold temperature would have to be kept in a goldilocks zone that allowed good flow while also allowing some cooling for release and still be ready for the next part. That may result in a build up of oxidated material on the mold that is not cleaned between maintenance.
A note about the black anodization on the heatsink. Since it is aluminum, it is naturally going to form an oxide layer, so having it anodized only slightly decreases the thermal conduction. This loss is more than made up for by having it black, which makes a much more significant improvement to the thermal conduction.
Always amazed at how much I have yet to learn about engineering. I build and sell guns for a living and thought I knew my stuff, not anymore. You know more about plastics and engineering than I ever will.
My husband and I love your videos. You keep it interesting and the comedy takes your videos apart from others. Some others have good videos with great information but fail to keep attention of viewers due to being a bit dull. You do a good job. Keep doing what you do. PS, I'm on my husband's UA-cam account. I am the wifey.
I have had one of these for years. Best blender I've ever had. I got it for about $200 on eBay. Factory refurbished. Came as new and has been flawless. It is so much better than the blenders I've had in the past that I would pay $400 if I had to. Only cons is its loud and if you don't hold the lid on, it will blow its top and shoot its entire contents all over your kitchen if you just walk away with it running. But for $200, its the best blender you can buy. Never had a Vitamix but they can't be bought for $200 as far as I know. Never see them selling factory refurbished.
that was my first question since my wife wants one of them... went and looked up the parts list for them. Looks very similar, go figure, same ametek company makes the vitamix motors. Still a brushed motor. So yes, it will chooch. www.partstown.com/vita-mix/vm15670
This is a top of the line suzy homemaker blender. It sorta straddles the line between home and pro kitchen. The top end of watering things down for generic everybody use. You don't make note of NSF certification. Which isn't super easy to get. (www.nsf.org/consumer-resources/what-is-nsf-certification) My feeble understanding is it involves 5 years of durability testing and no food product contamination. Though they are now watering that down with a home use version of certification (likely focused more on contamination). Perhaps NSF without UL is a sign.
Brushed motors are kind of a blessing sometimes. Picked up one of those fancy 2000 dollar coffee machines and the grinder on it didn't work and it had almost 10 years of use and like 40000 something cups of coffee ground and made, turns out only the brushes were worn out and I got a good machine for free. Obviously it needed some love in general, new seals and whatnot but at that price point they seem to have every spare part available in a nice exploded view where you can get them for a fair price even years later It's similar to vintage audio equipment where stuff like tape decks often get dumped for free because they don't realize the 40+ year old belts have melted down into a sticky black tar and they work perfectly fine with cheap new belts
1:10 🤔 He's right! Perhaps there is an equation to calculate the spread of a workshop. X= S^3(M÷t) S=space M=money T=Time X= absolute clutter factor of your workshop.
Just one more thing !!
A five finger knuckle shuffle did not make me go blind.It was a virus that ate my retinas away,They're, I said it , now everyone get chooching again.......LOL !!
For those commenters who are having trouble understanding the linguistics of AvE, it really helps to make deductions of the meanings of words through the context of the rest of the phrase. Fortunately, I spent several formative years in western Canada, so I understand the lingo, even speak it under the correct circumstances. It must be said that this guys mastery of the language is bar non superior to ANYONE I have ever encountered. Just poetry. This has become my absolute favorite UA-cam channel.
I spent a better part of a year listening to the EEV Blog feller, AvE has just added a few new words to my lexicon. I don't know who Bob is, but he is a lot of guy's Uncle.
There is an ave dictionary online. Not kidding
I grew up in the south Appalachians and slang often varies by the hollers so you start to get good at quickly interpreting what people mean till you fully learn their words.
Watching Trailer Park Boys has helped me appreciate him.
I think you violated the warranty just opening the box.
violated more than that lol
The blender's now in therapy after that unboxing.
I love how he's tearing apart a $500 blender that HIS WIFE BOUGHT TO USE 😂.
You sir are a brave brave man.
Don't forget that all husband's shops are protected by spell from their wives. Everytime they look inside, nothing is comprehensible, he's safe for now
Until the cheese and kisses starts looking for the blender haha
he will put it back, no issues
That's why he is frequently seeing his therapist Manuela
Either that or he's tripod. So he gets away with alot.
Those 'cracks' you saw look a lot like knit lines (also called weld lines). It happens where two 'fronts' of molten plastic meet after flowing around an obstruction, which is why it often occurs around holes in injection moulded stuff.
Seeing you unbox that Blender makes me wonder what Mrs AvE went through on your wedding night!
Great comment. AvE's better 2/3rds would approve.
Dios mío
Lmao well they're still married and have kids. Must be a pretty skookum choocher.
Heh I was just thinking how gentle he used to be in the unboxings compared to now. Not a mini chainsaw in sight!
I’ll use this here angle grinder on that zipper..hold still and quite yur fussin
I like it that you explain WHY a machine is good or bad by taking it apart and showing us what is going on inside. This is much more interesting and useful than the usual product demo/evaluation videos.
Also, I learned a new word: skookum. What a great word!
4:00 The cracks are actually "knit lines" where plastic flowed around parts of the mold and met back together. It's a normal thing for injection molded parts.
And no one except
you know this right
@@troyschuller671 i didnt know.
I can't lie, he went down a notch or two not knowing what knit lines are. He speaks with a pretty high authority in a lot of areas and knit lines are very basic.
looks like splay marks not tool damage
splay and knit lines,
Those "cracks" in the base are most likely weld lines in the part. Weld lines are where the material flows around an island in the mold (grill hole for example) and meets back up on the other side. Most parts have them somewhere but they are not usually that visible. They can be weak spots particularly with fiber reinforced material because the fibers are not cross linked very well at the weld line and the material may not have fuse back together properly.
Severe weld lines can be a result of a poorly designed part, incorrect gating (injection points)in the mold, the molding process (temperatures, pressures, time) incorrect material for the application or poor venting of gases that get trapped inside the mold. Most of the time its from the molder running the process too cool and fast so the cycle time is short as possible which means more $$.
I once designed a 40% carbon fiber reinforced thermoplastic polyurethane part and the weld line was so weak you could snap it with your fingers but the rest of it wouldn't break with a hammer.
I had that thought too, but weld lines would show on both sides. Also the injection spots don't add up for that, unless I'm not seeing some.
That's what I thought. We used to get them really bad if we were filling too slowly.
+theslimeylimey This is correct those are definetely flow lines, guaranteed.
Also, regarding the anodized aluminum heat sinks... if there was forced air, then yes bare Al would be more efficient by taking advantage of convection. But since there is no forced air, radiation is the primary transfer method, and the anodized surface has emissivity 45% greater than bare metal.
Exactly, this is why almost all of these small board level heatsinks are black anodized aluminum. You actually have to try hard to find ones which are NOT!
I was about to write that :D
except for the emissivity part, that's some useful info i didn't know about.
Yeah, that Electrical Engineering degree I spent $45,000 and 5 years of my life earning really upped my UA-cam-comment game. :P
More like 2000%.
"Cracks" in the bottom ventilation slots is a moulding fault called Weld Lines or Knit lines ....Weld lines occur in plastic injection molded parts in the area or plane where two or more streams of material fuse together as the mold cavity fills with material. Injection temperature and pressure not optimised..Or mould too cold ..Thanks GOOGLE..
We called those flow lines. The wiped booger looking crap is called splay which can be from oil. The plastic is toted in gaylords as small pellets coated in oil to keep them from sticking.
But weld lines would show on both sides of the part. Also the gate location seems like it wouldn't cause that (obviously I could be wrong on that, I've only seen the part in a video).
Christopher Parsons I'm still not buying it. It is possible, but based on what I saw I'd expect weld lines in a different place, if at all.
I'm an unemployment grocery bagger
+Owen Williams there's more than just pouring plastic into a mould. It's done by a press that shoots 500 to 800 degree F plastic into a tool that's probably the size of your car. The press actually presses the two halves of the tool and one side of the tool is heated while the other half is cooked with water. The valves in the stationary side of the tool open up on timed increments to fill the cavity properly and to keep flow lines in certain areas on the visible surface along with other things. It is a very interesting and complex process.
+Christopher Parsons I understand injection molding, I just would expect any weld lines to be about 2/3rds down those vanes or even pushed into the open space past the vanes based on the gate location.
5 years dog park sanitation worker.
I grew up in a small farm town surrounded by idiots who called me gay for being "smart" and wanting to learn, which made me stop paying attention in school and really drop off the wagon. I've never been excited about learning new things since then... But watching your videos(this one in particular) has actually sparked that back up in me.
Thanks man. You rock.
Jeffrey A. Murphy Jr
Yo, you'd probably like a channel I just recently found called ZNA Productions, the dude makes stuff that even the farm town idiots would find cool. He kind of reminds me of AvE a bit too although he's younger.
who makes the connection between evil, homosexuality and intelligence? The three are unconnected.
Get yourself into trade school as an electromechanic and get to think like him.
Except he has a touch of chemistry and electronics knowledge that's beyond tradesmen level. But still, very attainable.
We are a dying breed. We need more members.
SP1 = speaker. That's the footprint for a piezo buzzer/speaker.
was thinking the same thing
30:00 Yea the company probably saved 5 cents by omitting it last minute for the 50/50 chance you want the buttons to beep when you push em. I'd be willing to bet that if you went and found one of those 10mm piezoelectric, soldered it in there, your blender buttons now beep at you.
+AvE Those "Cracks" are not "cracks". They are weld lines/ flow lines where the plastic flows around the features in the mold and meets together again. Doesn't mean the mold has cracks.
the neverending story of injection molding
what features, the "cracks" were on a perfectly flat area.
The oblong holes they are around. Those are physical features in the mold.
true - they are called knit lines
Ben Wallace but if the manufacturer but in some extra effort by vibration on the mold and keeping the molten plastic hot just a little longer, then the weld lines would not form like that unless it was taking the shape of imperfections in the mold.
The "Not Booze" bottle at the start. Grabbed the wrong bottle when drinking on the job? lol
+AvE Atleast it's in the top 5
ur a legend
okeedokee16 .... ever guzzle gasoline at the camp fire by accident? labels save
he must be part Indian (drunk not tech support)
I've been in IT (networking, computers), for over 15 years, fancy myself pretty knowledgeable, but I am absolutely *humbled* by your videos. It really puts into perspective that for all I think I know, I know *nothing*, John Snow. Thank you so much for making these, and for your genuine enthusiasm in "nerding out" over cool components, and being rightfully indignant over bad ones. I plan on going through the backlog of every one of your videos. Such great stuff. Thank you so much.
Has four box cutters but uses flat head screw driver to cut tape on box.
"Don't turn it on, take it apaaaart" - Eevblog in just about every video.
A man with a "vanhackulary"(AvE) You won't find his vocabulary in a Funk&Wagnel
No. It is a thyrisistor/triac Ave man. Plus huge green Common Mode inductor.
"TAKE IT APAAAAHT!"
Take it apaaaaaaaaaahhtt. Most famous line
@Dave George ~ Or as I used to hear back when I lived among the unwashed, "Look that up in your Fuckin' Wagon."
For those that didn't know... the reason the heatsink is anodized black isn't for durability reasons (durability is immaterial in this context). It's because matte black is the best at radiating heat. So in addition to the heatsink cooling by conduction (direct contact with air) and convection (heating the air which rises and pulls new colder air next to it), it also radiates heat (like a lightbulb or the sun). The purpose of a heatsink is of course to remove heat, so every little bit helps. Except, as AvE pointed out, when conduction is the only thing of concern (between two surfaces), then it would be better clear.
+metallitech Black surfaces emit (and absorb) radiation faster than light ones.
metallitech
We learn something new every day!
+MattsAwesomeStuff This case it's for volatile acids in the kitchen and the skin oil/dirt of the assembler. You can end up with a half mm crust of bad aluminum after four or five years on these things.
Now do a Vitamix! They are a direct competitor.
Vitamix is king
My Vitamix is skookum as frick and it chooches!
@@Tool-Meister the vitamix I have doesn't have sharp blades, it pulverizes with a blunt edge.
Waring is better
AvE,
I just wanted to tell you that regardless of what you tear down, it is always entertaining and educational.
I work on large electrical / mechanical devices for a living that are fairly expensive. My QC background had me inspecting them as I worked on them a decade ago. Short story long, I lost the curiosity of checking things out. Watching your vids has brought that passion back. Now I find myself rattling off design flaws non-stop to girls half my age at work while getting the fucking dumbest looks when I explain the basics of thermal expansion and contraction on PMMA.
Just wanted to say thanks!
He used dye penetrant on a blender 😂
Favorite moment of this video? Opening the box with a screwdriver when there's a knife on the bench.
+tehpopa aint noone got time to switch tools, even when they are in reach
+tehpopa wonder if his old lady even knew AvE swipped HER kitchen tool to tear down. Bet she got a rolling pin handy now......
+tehpopa There are 4 knives on the bench... but the screwdriver technique is badass
+Dirtyharry70585 I think it's more like, "Hey Honey, you know what'd be fun? Me, tearing through that there doohickey!"
"The Blendtec? Mister, if you're getting it, then it's mine. If you even scratch it, you're sleeping outside."
+Dirtyharry70585
he mentioned the misses already claimed it. she knows he has it.
Now that's how a real man unboxes a brand new product :)
Man am I glad I stumbled across this. I know nothing of what you were really talking about or why, but the delivery was awesome. I'll be subscribing just because of your vernacular.
Garrett Barry was a blind woodworker and musician in Ireland. Repaired furniture and played uilleann pipes.
Could that "SP1" missing part in the board possibly be for an optional beeper or speaker that beeps when a button is pressed, or when the blender gets jammed, etc?
+SpaceMountainLarry Yeah, SP1 is more likely to be a speaker. Push Button is more likely to be something like PB or SW.
I thought the same. Also, probably a triac to switch ac rather than a mosfet.
Hehe, me too. It probably is for a piezo speaker.
+SpaceMountainLarry Thats what i thought maybe for testing or announcing what mode you have selected.
+SpaceMountainLarry .... Now he MUST try a speaker in there! :-)
Met Chris the blind wood turner at the Uk&I Woodturning Symposium (Sorry AvE) and he is a great guy! He asked one of the exhibitors if they had used a wet brick to sand a piece he was feeling! Had me in stitches, great to see him on my favourite UA-cam channel!
"Previously on HowtoBasic"
I'm dead
I'm dedder
+Adrien Perié Not enough eggs smashed, 3/10
I actually snorted some coffee up my nose at the 'howtobasic' bit. Genius.
I forgot about that channel!!! ......off to watch some psychotic egg breaking...
that bit fuckin slayed me
I lost my mind when he started calling electricity "pixies!" Thank you so much for making my lunch break!
"Canadian Peso"
+Make Something Yeah, I got a kick out of it as well!
+Make Something Yeah, I had to rewind that to see if I heard right.
+Anakin Skyobiliviator He says that so often that i ended up looking it up to find out what it means or refers to. I didn't find any answers.
+Halojen peso is a currency used in some countries of south america so i guess he is just referring to canadian dollars as pesos.
Oh, I see. I suspected it was something like that.
This guy is the best. His reviews are so through, entertaining, unique and informative
Hi there !!
Fantastic first part and as always a right giggle,especially when your inner hacking demon noticed a potential for mischief. This episode even had a shout out to a certain blind tree carcass molester. ( Namely , me !! )
Seriously..Thanks for my shout out.All being well we might just have inspired a couple more people who suffer from certain life issues to get chooching in whatever way floats their boat.
As we say in these here parts.... " You are a top bloke !! "
Ciao for now !!
Chris.
Chris You are Awesome!
Thanks for mentioning The Blind Woodworker. Will certainly be watching.
It's a thyristor that's doing the work. You can tell that it's not being rectified because those tiny little puny diodes would never survive the turn-on current (or even the operating current) of the motor. So they HAVE to be switching AC. This also explains why there is an RPM sensor: without that, it's impossible to know well enough what the motor is doing because just plain old phase-cut dimming (which is what a thyristor does) is highly nonlinear and the voltage on your mains is not generally a clean sinewave. Investigative electronics!
Love the silkscreen at 27:20: EARTH EARTH NUETRAL
Made me laugh
Goes hand in hand with his vocabulary. Lol
"I have a two car garage"
I have a cupboard.
A cupboard.
In my flat.
I'd kill for that much space.
First you'd have to start at the "flat" part. Fix that and go from there.
A cupboard? You were lucky....
"Although I was wrong once.. in the 80's... although it turns out we were all just high as f***."
I love this channel :)
This is the most skookum channel I've ever seen. This guy makes all the machining talk chooch right into my brain hole.
Just a note on you first plastic part, that mold is in most cases perfectly fine. It's the setup for the plastic injection that is most likely off (by a lot). Those marks coming from the bosses look like splay, and the stress marks in the vent holes can be caused by improper cooling, bad knitting, and or bad venting of built up gasses, also mold release not enough or to much.
Thats an elegant and delicate way to finesse valuables open
"You stick the pokey bit into the wall and ya get 120 volts worth of pixies."
Can you please try to not be so technical. I'm trying to take notes.
30:00 looks like a speaker...beep to say that your over-9000 decibel blender is done smoothieing. Decided after the fact that beep was not necessary.
+frollard SP1 has meant speaker on every consumer PCB/schematic I've ever seen. And I've seen tens of schematics.
Not quite tens of hundreds though.
+frollard At 1 atm, it is impossibkle to have sound intensity over 200 dB
+a You are forgetting how powerful these blenders are! Even the laws of physics get blended.
+a 9000dB would make the world explode lol
This might be old news now but it looks like that bearing ground also grounds the armature shaft. I'd expect that. Any motor core that is being driven by PWM, including VFD driven 3 phase induction motors, can develop an inductive kick in the armature when the current changes rapidly (PWM turn on/off and brush disconnect). If you don't ground the armature, it may develop a static charge which will eventually arc through the bearings, killing them quickly.
Also, I think the unpotted field windings are easier to cool than if they are encapsulated. Since the machine sits on the counter, there isn't as much need for potting that part of the motor. Thanks for all your shows!
if you have any questions about infection holding er injection molding, feel free to ask. I have done some time in the old squeeze and squirt factories. looks like the surface imperfections are due to moisture in the material and the "cracks" in tbe louvresrezar (
Hahaha yes sir that's me!
I LOVE your videos! By the way, the input choke isn't "for things to not get fried". It is to prevent high frequency switching noise from the FET chopper circuit from feeding back into the power lines of the house. It's called "RF conducted emissions". It's regulated by, in the US, the FCC. Not sure about Canada. But you can't just plug in a high frequency switching device to the house wiring without protecting the rest of the stuff in the house from the noise produced.
I learn something every time i watch your videos. Great job!
I actually work at the Blendtec factory in Orem Utah, and handle all these parts that go in to these blenders every day. We now make the entire motor assembly in house and it is much better. It was way cool watching you take this blender apart knowing I've stood in the exact spot where that blender was assembled. You should get a new one from off the shelves today and have a peak, if you get the chance😉.
I like how they could not spell "neutral" on the circuit board. They wrote it "nuetral".
+Paul Frederick I saw that and headed down to the comments. Glad other people noticed as well!
+Paul Frederick Meh, doesn't really matter. I am a programmer and internally, there are lots of spelling errors in comments and commit messages. You just stop caring, takes too much work to fix.
It's designed I Utah, that's why. Idiots over there. I was working on a PLC program from Utah and "Manual" was spelled "Manuel".
jak p
You Utah what?
+Prometheus I no write?
Plastic injection molding process tech here. Those arent cracks in the ABS plastic- those are weld lines. Happens every time plastic is forced around an obstacle (in this case the vent holes) and then meets itself on the other side. The mold is not cracked. This is normal.
Been watching these for a while, only just occurred to me, BOLTR isn't the company who makes these products...
+Liamv4696 It isn't, but it WILL be if you create it.
Love the demonstration of your manual dexterity, and the precision use of the correct tool, in the unboxing ceremony! Priceless!
I couldn't help but piss my sides when you unboxed that thing
I have one of these, been having it for a year or so. Got around a 1000 uses on the screen ticker thing. Never skipped a beat. Beast of an appliance.
Probably not cracks in the mold tooling. Possibly weld lines were the molten plastic races around the die and meets up with its self.
+intagliode Exactly.. AKA knit lines.Did a google and posted before seeing this..Weld Lines or Knit lines ....Weld lines occur in plastic injection molded parts in the area or plane where two or more streams of material fuse together as the mold cavity fills with material. Injection temperature and pressure not optimised..Or mould too cold ..Thanks GOOGLE..
I have the version before this one, served me mightily well for almost 6 years! Very happy with my blendtech.
Just a question, does your wife watch your videos?
+AvE I have a serious question....what would you consider your by far the best build tool you ever reviewed?
i'd like to know as well.
EagleKeeper I
This is my fav unboxing. If I close my eyes it sounds like the time I ran over a big ass sheet of bubble wrap with a forklift.
tear down any dyson product
Ohh good idea.
+iiCUBE OiD Been done, not impressive. Dyson is absurdly overpriced crap.
I mean they are better than say a shark or hoover bagless by a long shot. But they fall short in their price point. Simplicity, miele, and used Kirby all work far better and can be found in the 500 to 700 price range.
Honestly I was a huge Dyson fan until I got my simplicity. Way better on all fronts. Better filtration, more durable, better suction, kevlar belt, easy to change the bag, the bag also closes to keep dust contained.
I've also not had nearly the issues with clogs I had with my Dyson. I have a dog and wife that both shed year fucking round and endlessly I had to have the Dyson taken apart to clear the clog of hair.
Well, sure I mean there isn't any competition there. That's like saying fiat is the best Italian compact car sold in the US today.
+User Name Have you thought of getting a short haired variety?
I really REALLY appreciate the way this man takes things out of boxes.
SP1 - speaker/beeper perhaps?
And BTW what does BOLTR stand for?
as far as i know it stands for "bored of lame tool reviews"
Boring Ole Lame Teardown And Review (BOLTAR)
Hey AvE, i just wanted to give a shout out and thanks for the little intermission but about "'Cant' versus WILL". It's guys like you and Chris that inspire other "Do-ers" around the world. When I was still in school for my automotive mechnic schooling, i had met a gentleman by the name of Jay Blake and he is a Pit Crew chief for his own NHRA drag racing team and he is completely blind. Before his accident he used to race as well aa do all the mechanical stuff. Even after his accident, he still is very very hands on with the cars and all the rebuilds and tear-downs. He didnt stop doing what he loved. Sorry i rambled there for a bit, just thought i would share. Love what you're doing and I got my coworkers hooked. Keep wrenching and wrecking
SP1 = SPeaker 1. Probably a buzzer, for button presses, etc.
I love the frankness of the video's. As a tool lovin' person it's really cool to see some of these things torn down with actual knowledge about the parts and materials used. Thank you so much for making these, and the laughs along the way! :D
31:00 - I've actually tested precisely this back when I was a wee bugger.
The anodizing makes very little difference. I could not measure it. Probably ~0.05degK/W.
That nice thermal pad they have there would be ~0.5degK/W
People with headphones love you.
Still don't know what "Chooch" means.
It sounds like some Thomas the tank engine profanity.
Chooch is when all the things are skookum and they all workey workey
inferno I just put that into Google Translate and it said "Watchu talkin bout Willis"
Just like a train do.
i like thomas the tank emgine profanity
Hayden DiSisto Yeah, it really makes my engine steam
That guy is not COMPLETELY blind. He is "legally blind", meaning that his vision is bad enough to get that status, but he's not entirely blind, he can still see a little bit.
i think sp1 is for a speaker 29:52
Yep, a piezo speaker. Also known as a beeper.
I just love these videos. A very real scents of the situation. When I was a kid, I did the same stuff. I wanted to see how it worked. Thank you for that.
Perhaps worth mentioning that with regard the "heat transfer film" (silpad) between the power device and heatsink [edit: can in some cases not necessarily this] be for electrical isolation - if it didn't need to be electrically isolated then thermal grease and a direct connection [edit: may] be used.
Remove the silpad and you're more than likely going to in the best case short the thing out and she go bang [edit: on this device that depends if the rivet is also isolated by way of a plastic or other sleeve/washer, if it's not then it is naturally electrically connected anyway and they used a silpad because maybe it was easier than paste or something, I can't see in the video because I only watch in potato quality].
Also, the heatsink is black because it actually has a considerable effect on the ability of a heatsink to radiate the heat, so you wouldn't want to be stripping all the black off, just at the interface.
[edits to stop people who don't read threads before replying ]
I don't think they cared too much for isolating the heatsink on this design because it looks like the MOSFET is riveted directly to the heatsink with an aluminum rivet. And I think the main reason it's anodized is to control corrosion because you don't want crap forming between the block and your part or corrosion forming and falling off into your board.
+anonymic79 controlled corrosion, you ever seen aluminum get all powdery from corrosion?
+SlocketSeven mcm are idiots, their experiment was fatally flawed and completely wrong
SlocketSeven +viperz888
www.eevblog.com/forum/projects/the-performance-of-a-heatsink-with-a-black-surface/msg59737/#msg59737
+James Sleeman Are you saying that the aluminum rivet doesn't transfer pixies? Maybe in Canada, but in the USA, aluminum conducts electricity.
_"Of tools and workshop stuff... It's like a gas, it just expands to fill any volume."_
Truer words!
Converted one of my apartment bedrooms into a workshop type dealy... ya know, hoping to contain the spread, as it were. Even gotst myself a couple fancy dollarstore baskets as distinctly dedicated piles of stuff. And still every now and then tools and accoutrements just decide to tour the rest of my house.
I own one of these and I can attest that it is worth it. I've never seen anotger blender blend as good as this.
Samuel Ellis bought a refurb 3.5 years ago. She's still chooching along.
Went through a few warranty jars, but the design changed each time, and so far, the current one has lasted. Seems like the bearing problem is much better.
It's like stand-up comedy for nerds. You have me laughing most of the way through your episodes with your euphemisms and whatnots. Keep up the great vids!
29:18 "NUETRAL" on the board. That's some good shit.
I've learned more about motors from your videos than I did in Motors Class in college!
Keep choochin'
OMG it's like a gas it expands to fills the space.
Truer words where never spoken. I bet you have vanishing portals too.
Them holes are the ghost escape holes for when it gives up the ghost
Earth, Earth, Nuetral? Kwalitee stuff.
+stevedotrsa hahahaha. cant believe how many people caught that.
Actually it was a Earth, Earth, Neutral, LINE. The second earth is presumably the lead that branches off and grounds the motor frame and shaft.
I just wanted to point something out, the anodized heat sink actually helps in two ways. One it helps protect against electrical conductivity by insulating and second it increases the "emissivity coefficient" to help it absorb radiated heat better.
Also the thermal pad between the transistor and heat sink is called a Mica insulator and the reason both are insulated is because if that transistor gets grounded it will turn on.
How did it take me this long to find you?! On the bright side, I've got tons of great videos to watch! Thank you! Definitely headed to patreon 👍
I've read the comments on injection molding, and they make sense to me. I don't have any experience in injection molding, but I have some in extrusion. The product we produced had an embossed pattern, and used heated wheels to produce it. The after effect of this was that material would accumulate on the embossing wheel after so many hours, regardless of the application of inhibitives like silicone spray or WD-40. The only reason I can come up with is the temperature differential between the temperature required to emboss an acceptable pattern and the melting point of the plastic we were using caused a sort of oxidation that was then deposited on the embossing wheel. Seems to me that, in injection molding, the mold temperature would have to be kept in a goldilocks zone that allowed good flow while also allowing some cooling for release and still be ready for the next part. That may result in a build up of oxidated material on the mold that is not cleaned between maintenance.
AvE man. How did you lose your vision?
+sghost128
I'd guess it was all that maple syrup vapor he and the guys in the mining camps have been exposed to
+willthefuneverstart . Ave doesn't seem to be the sort to partake in the broke-back type of fuckery.
+sghost128 You fuxs are mean....but pretty damn funny!
Probably from drinking that "not booze " bottle
pyro8818ak47 high-sulfur cutting oil. Delicious.
A note about the black anodization on the heatsink. Since it is aluminum, it is naturally going to form an oxide layer, so having it anodized only slightly decreases the thermal conduction. This loss is more than made up for by having it black, which makes a much more significant improvement to the thermal conduction.
+AvE sp1 would be speaker 1 or inthis case a piezo electric transducer to make it beep
I really enjoy your videos and I love the fact that you plug other peoples channels. Keep the videos coming
This is great. I love this stuff. Keep it up man!
Always amazed at how much I have yet to learn about engineering. I build and sell guns for a living and thought I knew my stuff, not anymore. You know more about plastics and engineering than I ever will.
Subscribed the moment you opened the box. I love you
My husband and I love your videos. You keep it interesting and the comedy takes your videos apart from others. Some others have good videos with great information but fail to keep attention of viewers due to being a bit dull. You do a good job. Keep doing what you do. PS, I'm on my husband's UA-cam account. I am the wifey.
Finally someone who understands how I feel about youtube unboxings! Expedite dammit! :)
I have had one of these for years. Best blender I've ever had. I got it for about $200 on eBay. Factory refurbished. Came as new and has been flawless. It is so much better than the blenders I've had in the past that I would pay $400 if I had to. Only cons is its loud and if you don't hold the lid on, it will blow its top and shoot its entire contents all over your kitchen if you just walk away with it running. But for $200, its the best blender you can buy. Never had a Vitamix but they can't be bought for $200 as far as I know. Never see them selling factory refurbished.
My grandmother actually did have a vinyl covered chesterfield :)
You get a like just for the disclaimer. I'm 45 seconds into the vid and I had to pause to write this. You just became a hero of the internet!
Has he torn down a Vitamix?
Nope
that was my first question since my wife wants one of them... went and looked up the parts list for them. Looks very similar, go figure, same ametek company makes the vitamix motors. Still a brushed motor. So yes, it will chooch.
www.partstown.com/vita-mix/vm15670
dre04mach Thanks.
I've owed both and Vitamix is WAY better in my opinion.
"Has he torn down a Vitamix?" yes he has now
Hey man, I hope you see this. I just wanted to say I love your videos. Very fun and educational. Some of the best entertainment on youtube. Chooch.
This is a top of the line suzy homemaker blender. It sorta straddles the line between home and pro kitchen. The top end of watering things down for generic everybody use.
You don't make note of NSF certification. Which isn't super easy to get. (www.nsf.org/consumer-resources/what-is-nsf-certification) My feeble understanding is it involves 5 years of durability testing and no food product contamination. Though they are now watering that down with a home use version of certification (likely focused more on contamination). Perhaps NSF without UL is a sign.
Brushed motors are kind of a blessing sometimes. Picked up one of those fancy 2000 dollar coffee machines and the grinder on it didn't work and it had almost 10 years of use and like 40000 something cups of coffee ground and made, turns out only the brushes were worn out and I got a good machine for free.
Obviously it needed some love in general, new seals and whatnot but at that price point they seem to have every spare part available in a nice exploded view where you can get them for a fair price even years later
It's similar to vintage audio equipment where stuff like tape decks often get dumped for free because they don't realize the 40+ year old belts have melted down into a sticky black tar and they work perfectly fine with cheap new belts
This guy is so fucking hilarious and genius.
1:10
🤔
He's right!
Perhaps there is an equation to calculate the spread of a workshop.
X= S^3(M÷t)
S=space
M=money
T=Time
X= absolute clutter factor of your workshop.